US2411493A - Buttonhole sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

A. R. WOOD 2,411,493

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1944 '7 Shets-Sheet l Nov. 19, 1946.

QN nR K m MW 0 R lb. m CL s l: n m QM \u-HH O 0 d H n 1 1 u .O w T M w i w m wm u 5. ml kn m flmT @Q Q K II a .l.. m M. M 6 mm? s h E M NE W Tn mm W Nov. 19, 1946. A. R. WOOD BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1944 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 NOV. 19, 1946. WQQD 2,411,493

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1944 '7 Sheets-Sheet 3 NOV. 19, 1946. w 2,411,493

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1944 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 gm if 2 Nov. 19, 1946,

A. R. WOOD 2,411,493

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1944 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 Nov. 19, 1946. R. WOOD BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jul 15, 1944 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 3| wuQ/WM 0911986? 2 /0062 Patented Nov. 19, 1946 OFFICE BUTTONHOLE. SEWING MACHINE Alfred R. Wood, Bridgeport, Conn., assignor to The Singer Manufacturing Company, Elizabeth,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application July 15, 1944, Serial No. 545,035

16 Claims.

This invention relates tosewing machines and more particularly to sewing machines of the straight buttonhole type having mechanism whereby the length of the stitches is automatically increased at the opposite ends of the buttonho-le upon cessation of the feeding movements of the work-clamp for the purpose of producing barring stitches.

In the production of high grade buttonholes where the barring stitches are desired to be patterned in a neat, closely packed, stacked relation, it is imperative that the increase in the amplitude of the needle-vibration and the cessation of the feeding movements of the work-clamp at the beginning of the barring operation occur simultaneously. It is equally important that at the ending of the barring operation the amplitude of the needle-vibration decrease at the same time that the feeding movements of the work-clamp are resumed to form the other side stitches of the button-hole.

In previous machines of the type in which this invention is embodied, the mechanism employed for stopping the work-clamp when the barring stitches were started and for again starting the work-clamp when the needle-vibration was reduced to side-stitching length operated satisfac torily at slow speeds of stitch-formation. However, since the speed of operation of the sewing machine has now been increased as much as fifty per cent, the mechanism of the prior machines failed to perform its function with the requisite degree of accuracy and particularly at the end of the barring operation and at the time that the amplitude of needle-vibration was reduced and the feeding movements of the work-clamp resumed.

It is the primary object of the present invention to provide a mechanism by which the workclamp shifting mechanism is instantly rendered ineffective or effective when the amplitude of vibration of the needle is increased to form the barring stitches or decreased to form the side stitches of the buttonhole.

:With the above and other objects in view, as will hereinafter appear,-the invention comprises the devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter set forth and illustrated in the accompanying drawings of a preferred embodiment of the invention, from which the several features of the invention and the advantages attained thereby will be readily understood by those skilled in the art.

I In the accompanying drawings, 1 a

Fig. 1 is a right side elevational view, partly in section, of a buttonhole sewing machine embodying the invention.

Fig. 2 represents a horizontal sectional view taken along the line 2-2, Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a left side elevational view of the machine shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view.

Fig. 5 represents an enlarged vertical sectional view taken substantially along line 5-5, Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 represents a vertical sectional view taken substantially along line 6-6, Fig. 4.

Fig. 7 is a top plan View of the bracket-arm of the machine.

Fig. 8 represents an enlarged vertical sectional view taken substantially along the line 8-8, Fig. 1, showing some of the detaib of the means em ployed for rendering the clutch efi'ective or ineffective in rotating the feed-cam.

Fig. 9 represents an enlarged vertical sectional view taken substantially along the line 9-9, Fig. '7.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged vertical sectional view taken substantially along the line lll-l0, Fig. 3, showing the feed-shaft fitted with the spline having the clutch-releasing cone secured at its lower end and the annularly grooved collar secured at its upper end.

Fig. 11 represents a horizontal sectional view taken substantially along the line I ll I, Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is an enlarged fragmentary top plan View of the needle-bar vibrating mechanism and the bar-stitch counting device, showing the relative position of the component parts thereof when the machine is producing the side-stitches of the buttonhole.

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary top plan view of the bar-stitch counting mechanism and shows the manner in which said mechanism is rendered ineffective during the production of the side-stitches of the buttonhole.

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 12, but with the bar-stitch counting mechanism removed to show more distinctly the details of the needle-bar vibrating mechanism.

Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 12, but with the needle-bar vibrating mechanism in position to produce the relatively long barring stitches and the bar-stitch counting device operating to determine the number of stitches comprising the bar.

Fig. 16 represents an enlarged horizontal sectional view taken substantially along the line I6- |6,Fig. 1. Fig. 17 represents a view, partly in section, taken along the line l'|-l1, Fig.1, showing an adjustment in the connections between the feed-cam and the work-clamp, whereby the machine can be set to sew various lengths buttonholes.

Fig. 18 represents an enlarged sectional view taken along the line i8l8, Fig. 10.

Fig. 19 represents an enlarged sectional View taken along the line Iii-l9, Fig. 11.

Fig. 20 represents a top plan view of the feedcam.

Referring to the drawings, the machine chosen for the purposes of the present disclosure has a frame including a bed I from which rises a standard 2 of the bracket-arm 3 terminating in a head 4. Journaled in the bracket-arm 3 is a main-shaft 5 connected at its rearward end, by spur-gears, to a countershaft 6 driven by a, belt adapted to run upon a nest of pulleys I carried by the countershaft 6, see Figs. 1 and 3. Journaled within the standard 2 is a vertical shaft 8 geared at its upper end to the main-shaft 5 and at its lower end to a 'bedor hook-shaft 9 journaled in the bed i. Secured at the outer end of the hook-shaft *9 is a rotary loop-taker or hook Iii adapted to cooperate with a threadca'rrying needle H in the formation of lockstitches. The needle H is carried by the lower end of a needle-bar 1'2 "journaled for 'endwise reciprocatory movement spaced bearings formed in a vibratory needle-bar-gate "l3 supported upon pintles Within the head 5. The needle-bar [2 may derive its reciprocator'y movements from the main-shaft '5 by means of any usual or suitable connections therewith.

The work to be but-tonholed is adapted to be held in a work clarnp comprising the usual lower work-plate i5 and the upper clamp-foot [6, Fig. l. The work-clamp is slowly moved in step-bystep fashion "under the endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle H, first away from the standard 2 and then towards the standard to cause the first and second rows of side zigzag stitches'to be laid'side by side in the work. lhe work clamp derives its step-by step movements from the usual feed-cam ll carried on a vertically disposed feed--shaf-t l8 j-ou-rnaled in th bed I and bracket-arm 3 of the machine-frame. The connections between the work-clarnpand the fe'ed-c'am'are generally similar to the construction disclosed in the U. S. patent of E. B. Allen, 1

No. 785,061, March 14, 1905. Referring to Figs. 4, '10, '17 and 20 it will be observed that-by-step movementspf the work-clamp away from and back towards the standard '2 are obtained from aheart-shaped cam-groove i9- formedin the up- -p'er face of the feed-cam I! through a bellcrank 'lever'2ll, th'e sIo ted limb of which is connected to the work-plate "l5 by a link 2!. To facili-ta't'e the proper adjustmentof the connections between the feed-cam l1 and thework-clamp for the production'of a'predetermined length but- 'tonhole the {link 2: adjacent the slotted limb r 'the "be ll c'rah k lever 2Q, -Fig. I7, is formed with a pointer 22 which extends ns-Warm through a clearahce 'slot -23 infth'e bed {I "of the machine and into register with a suitable indicator-plate 24 se'cur'ed'upon'thefbedi. The indicia n the indicator-plate denote the various "buttonhole sizes in button lignes. The connections employed for shifting the work-clamp sidewise so that the two rows-er side stitches of the 'buttonhole may be properly spaced are similar to those in the above mentioned Allen patent and comprise 'a lever 25, Figs. 4 and '10, one end of which is connected to the workp'late l whiletheo'ther and tracks a suitable cam-groove 26 formed in the feed-cam H.

The feed-cam I! is secured to the feed-shaft I8 to rotate therewith and preferably by means of a collar 2'l', Figs. 5 and 10, brazed to the shaft I8 or fixed thereto by set-screws 28 and formed with a projection 29 provided with a dogging pin 30 adapted to enter a timing hole 3! formed in the feed-cam I1. The feed-cam I1 is held against the collar 21 with the dogging pin 30 in the timing hole 3! by a nut 32 threaded upon the feed-shaft i8. The above described means for securing the feed-cam to the feed-shaft is desirable for the reason that by removing the nut 3 2 the entire feed-cam I1 and its associated mechanism can be readily removed from the machine without having to withdraw the feedshaft or disturb its timing.

The feed-cam El and the feed-shaft l8 are intermittently rotated by means of a one-wayac'tingclutch of the Horton type which is actuated by the vertical shaft 8. More specifically, the clutch preferably comprises an outer clutch drum 33 fixed, as clearly shown in Fig. 10, by a plurality of screws 3 to the recessed under surface of the feed-cam ll. Disposed within the clutch-drum 33 and freely rotatable upon the depending hub 35 (Fig. 10) of the feed-cam IT is a live internal clutch-spider 3% formed preferably with three suitable cavities 3'! provided with inclined harderred ware-plates 38. Disposed in each of the cavities 3'! is a clutch-member 39 which is en'- gaged by a plunger All, Fig. 4, backed by a coilspring 5|, the plunger acting to bias the clutchmember 39 toward the narrow end of the cavity 37 and wedge the same between the inclined ware-plate 3B and the clutch-surface of the drum 33. The spider 36 is oscillated constantly about the axis of the feed-shaft 18 during the operation of the machine by means of an arcuate shaped actuating lever 42 secured at its inner end by screws '43 to the spider 36. At its other end the actuating lever '62 is connected by a link 44 to the outer end of a rock-lever 45 carried on the lower end of a vertically disposed rockshaft 46 (see Fig. l) journaled in a bearing busliing' l'i pressed into the machine bed l. At its upper end the rock-shaft '46 has secured thereto a second rock-lever 48 connected to a pitman 49, Fig. 2; one end' of said pitman embracing an eccentric '59 fast on the vertical shaft 8. As the shaft 8 is "rotated, the eccentric 50 imparts to the rockshaft 46 oscillatory movements which through the rock-lever "45, link 44 and actuating lever 52 oscillate the clutch-spider lifi about the axis of the feed-shaft 18. The clutch-spider 36, through the clutch-members 39, drives the clutch-drum '33 which rotates the feed-cam I1 and feed-shaft 'IB intermittently'in one direction. ORetrograde motion of the feed-cam H is prevented by a common form of dog shown as 51 in 'Fig. 4.

The speed with which "the feed-cam I1 is rotated is dependent upon the effective length of a the actuating lever The means employed in "the machine chosen to illustrate the present invention for adjusting the effective length of the V 7 socketed endof'th'elink r4. Threadedi-ntoaprojection 55 on the block 53 is an adjusting rod 56 j ournaled against endwise movement ina bearing member 51 pivotally supported upon the clutch-spider 36. When it is desired to change the effective length of the actuating arm 42, the adjusting rod 56 is adaptedto be turned by a Suitable wrench in a manner fully disclosed in the abovementioned Wood patent. The turning of the adjusting rod 56 shifts the block 53 lengthwise of the actuating arm 42, thereby increasing or decreasing the oscillations imparted to the live clutch-spider, whereby the number of stitches forming the buttonhole can be readily controlled. Tojprevent overthrow of the clutch during the highspeed operation of the machine, the feedcam I! has embracing its grooved periphery for a "major portion thereof a brake (Fig. 4) in the form of a wire loop 58 secured at one end preferably to a lug 59 cast integral with the machine bed I. 'At its other end the wire loop 58 is hooked into'one end of a coil-spring 60 connected at its otherend to the free end of a member 6| adjustably fastened to an extension 62 fast on the rock-lever 45. As the rock-lever 45 is actuated toirotate the feed-cam I! (see arrow in Fig. 4) the wire loop 58 through the coil-spring 66 is tightened about the periphery of the feed-cam I! to such an extent that at the end of the stroke of the rock-lever 45, the wire loop is drawn sufficiently tight about the periphery of the feedcam to brake the same and preclude any overthrow thereof. During the return stroke of the rock-lever 45, it will be understood that the tension applied to the wire loop 53 will be released.

The particular form of brake above described forms the subject of my co-pending divisional application Serial No. 599,061, filed June 12, 1945. The principal advantage of this type of brake is that in initially engaging to turn the feed-shaft l8 the clutch does not have to overcome, in addition to the inertia of the parts, any appreciable braking force which may be needed at the end of the feed-cam advancing stroke to-prevent overthrow of the feed-cam. In other WOIdS,Wlth the improved wire-loop brake at the beginning of the feed-cam advancing stroke no braking action need be overcome, while, as the rock-lever 45 approaches the end of its advancing stroke, the braking action increases to a maximum so as to prevent overthrow. The gradual increase of the braking action as the end of the feed-advancing stroke is approached does not present any difficulty, inasmuch as the braking action is not applied to the feed-cam until after the clutchmembers 39 are in wedging relation between the clutch-drum 33 and the spider 36. The fact that no braking action exists during the short period oftime'that the clutch-members 39 are moving into wedging relation minimizes clutch slippage. As is common in many buttonhole sewing machines, the step-by-step movements of the work.-

clamp relative to the laterally vibratory needle are suspended for a short time at the opposite ends of the buttonhole, in order that a suitable number of barring stitches may be-made at each end'of the buttonhole. This suspension of the work-clamp feed is accomplished by automaticallycontrolled means operable to disengage the clutch employed for intermittently turning the feed-shaft and then to permit engagement of the clutch after the production of a plurality of mechanism. .To this end, the feed-shaft i8 is formed lengthwisethereof and preferably for its entire length with a clearance opening or keyway 63 in'which. is disposed within the confines of the feed-shaftfor free endwise movement a clutch-releasing rod or spline 64, Fig. 10. Secured tothe lower end of the spline 64, prefer ably by screws 65, is a clutch-releasing sleeve 66 slidably mounted upon the feed-shaft l8. The clutch-releasing sleeve 66 adjacent its upper end is formed with a substantially cone-shaped camsurface 6! which, when the sleeve is elevated to clutch-releasing position, is adapted to engage the respective tail portion of each of a plurality of clutch-element-releasing levers 68 journaled upon pivot-studs 69 depending from the spider plate 6 36, causing the clutch-element-releasing levers to engage the clutch-members 39 and displace them to a position such that wedging of the clutch-members between the spider 36 and the clutch-drum 33 cannot take place. Obviously, when the clutch-members 39 are thus maintained in non-wedging position, actuation of the spider 36 is inefiective to turn the feed-cam l1. During the time the feed-cam remains stationary there is no relative feed between the workclamp and the laterally vibratory needle I l and hence continued vibration of the needle effects the production of barring stitches arranged in a neat stacked relation. To maintain the compo nents of the entire clutch assembly in proper cooperating relationship a plurality of retainers Ill are provided (Figs. 4 and 5), which retainersare fastened by screws H to the live clutch-spider 36. Each of these retainers is formed at its inher end in a manner to project beneath one of the clutch-element-releasing levers 68 thereby to hold the lever upon its respective pivot-stud 69, while the body portion of each retainer underlies the clutch-member 39 to maintain the latter in its cavity 37. The other end of each of the retainers I0 is bent upwardly into substantially hook-shape about a horizontal flange 12 integral with the clutch-drum 33. By virtue of the above described retainers T6, the clutch-members 39 and the clutch-element releasing levers 68 are held in proper assembled position, and the live clutch-spider is maintained within the clutchdrum 33. Removal of the clutch-releasing sleeve 66 and the retainers l6 readily permits complete disassembling of the clutch mechanism.

The means by which the spline 64 is shifted up and down in its keyway 63 to elevate or lower the clutch-releasing sleeve 66 comprises a collar 13 slidably mounted upon the feed-shaft l8 and secured preferably by screws 14 to the spline 64. Formed in the collar 73 is an annular recess 15 (Figs. 8 and 16) entered by a roller 76 carried on'the inner end of a lifting lever 71 freely pivoted on a fulcrum-stud 18 journaled in spaced bearing lugs 18 integral with the Wall of the bracket-arm 3. The lifting lever I! is adapted to be actuated in a counterclockwise direction. Fig. 10, to raise the spline 64 and consequently the clutch-releasing sleeve 66 to render the clutch ineffective, by a vertically disposed rocker 80 secured on the fulcrum-stud 18, preferably as shown in Fig. 16, by a set-screw 8| and a taperpin 82. The lower end of the rocker 80 is in peripheral contact with a feed-cam release actuating element in the form of a two-lobe cam 83, Fig. 11, which is fast upon the feed-shaft l8. Each lobe of the cam is cut with a gradual rise 84 terminating in a drop-off 85 so that. asthe feed-shaft I8 is turned, the lower end of the rocker 80 is gradually swung outwardly in opposition to a coilspring 86, which is anchored at one end to anarm :9] en the-bracket-arm 3 and connected at :its other end to the lower end .of a leverarm .flzflppinned to the fulcrum-stud '18. As the outwardly swinging-motion of :the rocker 80 :is continued;atpawl-lever 89 .(Eigs. .8 and 10) .pivotally-carried on the rocker .80 is raised relative .to the lifting lever 'Il until a :step or shoulder 90 formed ion. the :pawl-lever 89 moves above the level of the upper :edge of .the lifting lever 11 when, under the ;action of the spring 9|, the pawl-lever 89 snaps into asubstanti'ally vertical position connecting the lifting lever "H with the rocker 9.0, see full lineposition in Fig. 18,. As the feed-shaft It continues to turn and the drop-off of the cam "83 passes by the lower end of the rocker x80, .therocker snaps inwardly under the influenceof the coil-springzst and into a position deterniinedizby an adjustable stop 92 carried by thezrocker .80. .This rapid inwardmotion of the rocker 89, through thepawl-lever 89 and the lifting lever 'Ilraises the clutch-,releasingsleeve sufficiently'to force the clutoh-elements'39 into an ineffective or declutching position. In order'to insure the rapid shifting of the clutch-elements 39:.into declutching'position,the rise on the camlobes 84 preceding the drop-offs 85 is of such heightthat the shoulder '90 on the pawl-lever 89 is raised to the extent that clearance'exists betweenthe sh'0u'1der99 and'the upper edge of the lifting lever 11 (-Figs. 10 and'18). This clearance permits 'the pawl-lever 89 to strike the lifting lever-TI with some forcewhen the rocker 80 snaps inwardly under the influence of the coil-spring 8'6,ithe sharp blow of the pawl-lever on the lifting'l'ever acting to drive the clutch-elements 39 out =ro'f wedging relation. When the clutch-elementsiare in their inefiective position, the feeds'haft is.notintermittentlyrotated with the continued operation of the'live clutch spider .36, but remains stationary. Thus the work-clamp is not shifted'relatively tothelaterally vibratory needle. As willbe observed in .Figs. 11 and 19, the

two-lobe cam 83 is preferably constructed so'that its, two drop-o'ifs Mare capable of adjustment relative to the main body of the camto effect an exact adjustment of the timing of the drop-offs relative tolthe rockerv 80. To thisend, the main body ofeach of the lobes 84 is'provided'with an arcuate recess '93inwhichis received a secondary ,camesect-ion94 adapted to be 'clamped'in proper "adjusted position ?by aclamp-screw 95 extending throughwanelo-ngated aperture :99 in the main :bodyof the cam and threaded into the'secondary cam-section "94. The 'timing'adjustment provided .by the secondarycam-sections 94 insures thatthe feed-:cam I1 .i rotated to ::a position such that the roller on the end of the work-plate side-shiftjing lever 25 is disposed in the section 26 .or 26 of the cam gro'ove'lfiformedin the feed-cam I'I before zthe drop-off 85 .passesby the rocker -80. .In 'othe'r words,'by properly adjusting the secondarycam-sectiOns :94 the needleiis unerringly shifted to a position central of the buttonhole prior to 'theautomatic increase in the amplitude of the'needle vibrations preparatory to the pro- ..duction of the barring stiches.

.the needle during-the formation 'of the side stitches. .The means by which this is accomplished in the machine illustrated-is substantially the sameas-that disclosed in the U. S. patent-of the actuator-lever I0 I .is biasedby a coil-spring I08 in a directionsuch engagement with' the .pin I 01. .dium-ofthe pin I-9'I and-notch I96 the connector- .link I09 is reciprocated= endwise 'by the oscillatory actuator-lever movement to theneedle-bar-gate I3.

actuator-lever .from the fulcrum axis of the-actuatorlever IIII E. B..Allen,;-N0. 784,291, .dated'March 7, 1905, but

difiering therefrom in details adaptingthe:mechan'ism for more accurate operation at higher speeds. .As hereinbefore described, the needle bar-gate 1:3 is supported for vibratorymovements on-the' pintles -I4,Fig. 1. Connected to the'upper endpf the needle-bar-gate I3 is one endgof an endwise extensible link 91 'adjustably connected inner :end of an oscillatory actuator-lever 'I0I (Figs. 8,9 and 14) .fulcrumed-upon astudIllZ threaded into the-bracket-arm ,3. The other end oi the actuator-lever IOI has fixed to it :a roller I03 which tracks acam-groove I04 formed, in ,a cam J95 fast upon the countershaft v6, the speed of rotation of which is one-half that of-the arm.- shaft 5 duri g ,the normal button-holing cycle. It will be understood from the above-description that rotation-of the cam I05 will cause the actup ator-lever Hill to oscillate about its fulcrum-stud I62, thus transmitting vibratory movements to the needle-.bar-gate I3 throughtheconnectorlink I00, vibratory lever 98 and link 91. Adjustment of the length of the link 91 provides for properlycentralizing the stitches relative to the usual buttonhole slit. Adjustment of-the endof the-link 9! on the vibratory-lever 98 permits re ulationof the amplitude of vibration of the nee.- olle-bar-gate I3 and hence the length of .the stitches forming thebuttonhole.

It will be understood that the oscillatory ,actushapedwith a flaring mouth and a narrow throat.

the latter of whichyissizedto snugly engage the periphery of an upstanding pin I0'I-attached to The connector-link that the throat of the notch I99 is maintained in Through the-me- IOI and thereby imparts Considering now the bar-stitching position,

'willbeseen inFigs. 8 and 14 that theconnectorlinkalllilhasdepending from it a roller I 09 which extends into a keyhole slot 1 I0 formed in the I91 at a distance more remote than thepin Illl. The proportions of the keyholeslot I-'I-9 are-such-that whentheroller I-0'9 vis'd-isposed within the larger end of the slot, as shown in Fig. 14,- the clearance betweent-he sides of'the slot II B-andthe roller- I09 is such asnot to interferewith the operation of the connectorlink 190 by the actuator-lever I-0I. However, when-theroller I09 is :shifted into the narrow 'portionzof the keyhole slot H0 for production of .the barring-stitches (see Fig. 15) the roller I09 engages the sides-of theslot I I9 and thereby con- --nects the link I09 with the oscillatoryactuatorlever 1 I 0 I. projecting upwardly-from the actuator-lever: I10] :When1thus connected, the pin I01 is located in the widely flaring mouth of the notch I06. From the above description it will be understood that when the connector-link I is connected to the oscillatory actuator-lever IOI by means of the notch I06 and. the pin I01 (Fig. 14) the needle-bar-gate is vibrated to elfect the production of side-stitches, and that when the connector-link I00 and the oscillatory actuatorlever I M are connected together by the roller I09 and the keyhole slot I I 0 (Fig. 16) the needle-bartgate is vibrated to effect the production of the longer barring stitches. The position of the roller I09 in the narrow portion of the keyhole slot H0 is determined by the adjustable stop screw 92 threaded into the rocker 80.

The means for shifting the connector-link I00 from side-stitching position (Fig. 1%) to the bar- .stitching position (Fig. 15) is automatic in its snap, under the influence of a coil-spring IIE, about aprojection II'I secured on the connectorlink I00 when the pawl III moves inwardly as a result of the movement of the rocker 80 in response to the turning of the cam 83. Thus it will be seen that the upperend of the rocker 80 is connected to the connector-link I00 when the oscillatory actuator-lever IOI and the connectorlinkare operating in their side-stitching position. When the cam 83 on the feed-shaft I8 is rotated to the point where one of its drop-offs 85 passes by thelower end of the rocker 80 the rocker, as

previously explained, snaps into a substantially vertical position under the influence of the coil- Ispr'ing 83 which is stronger than coil-spring I08 and thereby simultaneously raises the clutch-re- .leasing sleeve 66 to render the feed-clutch ineffectiveand shifts the connector-link I00 from its side-stitching position into its bar-stitching position. In other words the rocker 80, when it snaps into a substantially vertical position, acts through the pawl-lever 89, lifting lever 11, spline B4 and clutch-releasing sleeve 06, to render the feed-clutch ineffective, thus terminating the step-by-step movements of the work-clamp and simultaneously shifting the connector-link I00 from the side-stitching position to the bar-stitching position. In order to relieve the needle thread of some of its tension during the formationof' thebarring stitches, the thread-disks of the usual tension device H8 are adapted to be separated by a disk-separating plunger I I9 (Fig. 1) which is moved upwardly by a cam. I20, at tached to the connector-link I00, when the connector-link is in its bar-stitching position.

The number of stitches included in each bar is determined by a suitable bar-stitch counting mechanism similar in design to that disclosed in the U. S. Patent No. 806,231 issued to E. B. Allen, December 5, 1905. Referring particularly to Figs. 9, 12, 13, 14 and 15, there is mounted for limited turning movement on the upper end of 'the fulcrum-stud I02 a ratchet-Wheel I2I secured in position by a screw I22 (Fig. 9) threaded into the stud I02. Interposed'between the head of the screw I22 and the top of the fulcrum-stud I02 is a disk I23 resting upon a coiled spring I24 which functions to bias the ratchet-wheel I2! in a clockwise direction, as seen in Fig. 13, against an adjustable stop I25 depending from a coverplate I26 and adapted to be clamped in desired set position by a thumb-nut I2'I. To facilitate the proper setting of the stop I25 to obtain the desired number of stitches in the bar there is provided a pointer I28 (Figy'l) cooperating with suitable indicia scribed on the cover-plate I26. As will be seen in Fig. 13, that portion of the ratchet-wheel I2I which is normally biased into contact with the adjustable stop I25. comprises an arcuate plate-member I29 clamped for limited circular adjustment by screws I30 in an annular recess I3I formed in the upper face of the ratchet-wheel I2I. The arcuate plate-member I29 is adjustably clamped upon the ratchet-wheel $2 I so that different teeth on the periphery of the ratchet-wheel may be brought into use, whereby the life of the ratchet-wheel is increased.

The ratchet-wheel I2I is adapted to be advanced in a counterclockwise direction as viewed in Fig. 16 by an actuating pawl I32 pivotally mounted on an extension I33 of the oscillatory actuator-lever IIII; the actuating pawl being biased into engagement with the teeth in the ratchet-wheel I2I by a leaf spring I34. Cooperating with the actuating pawl I32 in advancing the ratchet-wheel I2I is a detent-pawl I35 which functions to prevent retrogradeturning of the ratchet-wheel. It will be understood that as the actuator-lever IOI is oscillated about its fulcrumstucl I02 by'the cam I05 the actuating pawl I32 is operated in such a manner as to engage and advance the ratchet-wheel I2I tooth-by-tooth and that the detent-pawl I35 maintains the ratchet-wheel in its various steps of advancement. After the number of barring stitches to which the pointer I28 is set has been produced, during which time the ratchet-wheel I2I is being advanced by the actuator pawl I32, a trip-plate I35 adjustably secured in the annular recess I3I formed in' theratchetwheel I2I is brought into engagement with a pin I31 depending from a cross-lever I33 pivoted intermediate its ends on a stud I39 threaded into the cover-plate I26, Fig.

15. After engagement of the pin I31 by the tripplate I36, further turning of the ratchet-wheel I2I, under the action of the actuating pawl I32,

swings the cross-lever I38 about its pivot I39fin the direction indicated'by the arrow in Fig. 15 thus moving its free end into contact with the upstanding tail portion of the pawl-lever 89.

Continued swinging movement of the cross-lever "II to the position indicated in dotted lines in Fig.

18. Depending from the cross-lever I38 is a release-pin I40 which, after the pawl-lever 89 is swung out of operative relation with the lifting lever TI, is adapted to move into contact the limb H4 of the pawl I I I, Fig. 15; Further turning of the cross -lever I30 in response to the step-bystep advance of the ratchet-wheel I2I swings the pawl III about its ball-stud II2 causing the limb II3 of the pawl III to release theprojection In on the connector-link IIO. When the projection II; is released the connector-link IIO, under the influence of the coil-spring I08, snaps from barring position, Fig. 15, to side-stitching position,

Fig. 12 In moving from barring position to sidestitohing position a projection I IIon the conhector-link I00 engages a tail-member I42 on the ratchet-wheel actuatingpawl I32 and shifts the actuating pawl in opposition tothe' leaf-spring 'ilxfii'from its effective position shown in Fig. to its ineffective position :shown :in Figs. 12 and 13. As shownzin Fig. 13 this shifting of the actuzating pawl I 32 causes it to'move into engagement with :the 'detent-pawl 2| 35and to move the latter .against its spring I43 out ;of engagement with the teeth :on the ratchet-Wheel [2]. When the ratchet-wheel is thus released from the detent :pawlzthe spring I2 1 biases lthe ratchet-wheel l2l :in:a clockwise direction, Fig. 13, and against the 1817.013125, whereby the bar-stitch counting mechzanismis reset for the subsequent barring opera- 121011.

in order to .resume the .side -stitching operation at the completion of "the barring operation, it is acquired that the clutch-releasing sleeve '66 be idepressed to permit theclutch-members 739 to assume their :wedging relation between the clutchdrum 33 andithe Qlive clutch spider 36. To this end, :the i-connector-link ill!) at its free end eX- z'tends laterally and then :forwardly to terminate insa :relatively short arm M4 fitted with an ad- 'justablescrew M5. Asshown in Fig. 15 when the 'zconnector-link 1% is located in its barring position the adjustable screw I45 is spaced from the vertical limb $6 :of :a bell-crank lever ls! freely pivoted upon the fulcrum-stud 18, Fig. 16. When zthfiCOllIlGCtOf-link 1:00 is released'from the pawl =-H l at the completion of the barring operation and snaps from itsbarringposition (Fig. 15') in- .to its side-stitching position (Fig. 12), the screw "I 45 strikes the vertical limb I ls of thebell-crank slever M 1, rapidly turning it about the fulcrumstud 18. .As :the bell-crank lever turns, the horizontalli-m-b 1:48 thereof moves-downwardly and a roller/149 carried at the free end of the hori- ,zontal limb M8 and disposed in the annular recess liof the collar! slides the collar downwardlycn the feed-shaft L8. The collar through the splinee lowers the, clutch-releasing sleeve 56 toapositi-on such that the clutch-element-rewhich is determined by a suitable bar-stitch counting mechanism.

Having thus set forth the natureof the invention, what I claim herein is:

1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including an lendwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle, ,a work-holder, a rotary shaft, a feed-cam oarriedby said shaft, operativeconnections with ,said feed-cam for relatively shifting said stitch- ,forming meohanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, clutch means for rotating said shaft, and means including an actuating member .shiftable axially of said shaft for disabling said clutch :means during the formation- Of :the buttonhole.

In "a ibuttonholesewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including an aendwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory :needlej, a work-holder, .a rotary shaft, a feed-cam carried :by said shaft, operative connecti ns w th 12 said feed-cam for, relatively shifting said stitchforming :mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, clutch means for rotatin said shaft, and means -including an actuating member shiftable axially of and rotatable with 'saidshaft for disabling said clutch means during the formationof the buttonhole,

13.;A buttonhole :sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and lateraa'lly vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude .of vibration of the-needle to sew barring stitches at an -;end of the hutitonhole, and :means 'for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder :to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft, a feed-cam mounted 1,011 tsaid shaft, and :a clutch for turning said feed-cam, and means including a "member extending lengthwise ofsaid shaft and actuated by said barring mechanism for rendering said :clutch ineffective to rotate said shaft.

' A. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and lateri ally Vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitudeof vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, means for relatively "moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft having a clearance openin extending lengthwise thereof, a feed-cam mounted on saidshaft, anda clutch for turning said"-feed-cam, and a clutchre'leasing rod slidable in the clearance opening in said shaft for renderingsaid clutch ineffective, thereby to interrupt the "relative movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and said work-holder upon-initiation of the barring "operation.

.5. A buttonhole sewing ,machine having, in combination, I a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory "and laterally vibratory needle and barring mec'hanism'for changing the amplitudeo'f vibration of theneedl'e .to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and. means for relatively .moving'the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about ,a buttonhole, said means including .a shaft arranged so that said barring mechanism is disposed adjacent one ,end of the shaft, a feed-cam mounted on said shaft adjacent the end remote from the barring mechanism, aclutch for "turning said shaft; .and a clutch-releasing rod eX- tending lengthwise .of-said shaft and actuated .by said barring mechanism for renderingsaid .clu'tch ineffective, thereby to interrupt" the relative movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and said work-holder. i

B. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism includinga reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism 'for changing theamplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an .end .of the button? 7 hole, and means for relatively moving the stitchsaid clutch ineffective to turn said feed-cam.

'7. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft having a clearance opening formed lengthwise thereof, a feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch mounted to turn said shaft, said clutch including a drum, a spider, and at least one clutch-member disposed between said drum and said spider, a rod disposed in said clearance opening and shiftable lengthwise of said shaft under the influence of said earring mechanism, and an element secured to said rod and positioned to cause said clutch-member to be retracted from effective action when said rod is shifted, thereby to render said clutch ineffective to turn said shaft.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in

combination, a work holder, stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for increasing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft,.a feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch mounted to turn said shaft, a member extending lengthwise of said shaft and having an inoperative position in which said clutch is effective and an operative position in which said clutch is ineffective, a feed-cam release actuating element fast on said shaft, means connecting said feedcam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, and means actuated by said barring mechanism for shifting said member into its inoperative position.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a button-hole, said means including a shaft, a feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch mounted to turn said shaft, a member extending lengthwise of said shaft and having an inoperative position in which said clutch is effective and an operative position in which said clutch is ineffective, a feed-cam release actuating element fast on said shaft, means connecting said feedcam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, means actuated by said barring mechanism for shifting said member into its inoperative posi tion, and means for varying the timing between said feed-cam and said feed-cam release actuating element.

10. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft, a feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch mounted to turn said shaft, a member extending lengthwise of said shaft and having an inoperative position in which said clutchis effective and an operative position in which said clutchis ineffective, a feed-cam release actuating element fast on said shaft, means connecting said feedcam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, and means actuated by said barring mechanism for shifting said member into its inoperative position, said feed-cam release actuating element being adjustable to vary the timing between the feed-cam and the feed-cam release actuating element, n

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibrating needle and barring 'mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft arranged so that said barring mechanism is disposed adjacent one end of the shaft; a feed-cam mounted on said shaft remote from said barring mechanism, a clutch located adjacent said feed-cam and mounted to turn said shaft, a member extending lengthwise of said shaft and having an inoperative position in which said clutch iseffective and an operative position in which said clutch is ineffective, a feed-cam release actuating element fast on said shaft intermediate said feed-cam and said barring mechanism, means connecting said feed-cam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, and mean actuated by said barring mechanism for shifting said member into its inoperative position.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of a buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitchforming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft, 2. feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch for turning said shaft, said clutch having a driven element and a constantly operating driving live element, and means interconnected with said barring mechanism for rendering said live element ineffective during the continued operation of the live element of said clutch, thereby to interrupt the relative movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and said work-holder to form barring stitches.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in

combination, a frame including a bed and an overhanging bracket-arm, an actuating shaft journaled in said frame, a work-holder, stitchgauges 1'5 actuating arm, an eccentric fast on said actuating shaft, and a pitman connecting another of said rock-levers to said eccentric.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a frame including a bed and an overhanging bracket-arm, an actuating shaft vertically disposed and journaled in said frame, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism. and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a feed-cam, a clutch disposed, within said bed for turning said feed-cam, a clutch actuating arm, a rock-shaft, journaled in said. bed in substantial parallelism with said actuating shaft, a plurality of rock-levers carried by said rock-shaft, a link connecting one of said rock-levers to said clutchactuating' arm, an eccentric fast on said actuating shaft, and a pitman connecting another of said IOCKr'IBVBIStO said eccentric.

15.. A louttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and barring mechanism for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of. the buttonhole, means for relatively moving the stitchforming. mechanism and work-holder to sew about abuttonhole, said means including a shaft, a feed-cam. mounted on said shaft, a. clutch mounted to turn. said shaft, a member extend- 16 ing element fast on said shaft, means connecting said feed-cam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, said last named means including a lifting lever operatively connected with said member, a rocker actuated by said feed-cam release actuating element, and a pawl-lever adapted to connectsaid rocker with said lifting lever, and means actuated by said barring mechanism for shifting said member into its inoperative position. v

16-. A louttonholev sewing machinev having, in combination, a work-holder, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needle and, barring mechanismv for changing the amplitude of vibration of the needle to sew barring stitches at an end of the buttonhole, and means for relatively moving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew about a buttonhole, said means including a shaft, a feed-cam mounted on said shaft, a clutch I mounted to turn said shaft,-a member extending lengthwise, of said shaft and having an in,- operative position in which said clutch is effective and an operative position in which said clutch is ineffective, a feed-cam, release actuating element fast on said shaft, means connecting. said feed-cam release actuating element to said member for shifting said member into its operative position, and meansfor shifting said member into its inoperative position, said. last. named means including a lever actuated by said. barring mechanism and operatively connected to said member.

ALFRED R. WOOD.

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