US2398258A

US2398258A - Garment construction

Info

Publication number: US2398258A
Application number: US572442A
Authority: US
Inventors: Herbert L Seegal
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1945-01-12
Filing date: 1945-01-12
Publication date: 1946-04-09
Anticipated expiration: 1963-04-09

Description

Ap'ril 9, 1946.

H. L. srl-:EGAL 2,398,258

` GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 12, 1945 Patented Apr. 9, 1946 UNITED STATE VdrunnEN'rACONSTRUCTTonv Herbert Segal; Richmond, Ya. I Application January i2, 1945, serial No.` 5725442 i fociaims., (cnaf-115) This invention relates to wearing apparel and more particularly to body garments such as shirts Y normal waist measure,- or onthinner men, such a shirt has excessive fullnessY through the body. Among military men, for example, Where special attention is given to neatness of uniforms, some men have their shirts cut down at extra expense to smaller waist measuraand others gather the fullness of the shirt to the sides and pin it or tuck it under their belts in order to obtain a snug nt and neat appearance for their shirts across the waist portion of the front of the shirt,

It is an object f this invention to provide anv improved construction for obtaining a better body` fit and neater appearance of ready-made shirts, particularly mens shirts, or similar garments. The invention includes fastening means locatedat the waist region for adjusting the fullness to limited locations at the back and sides of the garment, to a construction for limiting the fullness in the waist portion of a shirt without creating uncomfortable lumps under the beltof the wearer,

Another feature of the invention relates to a combination of fastening means, and fabric elements to which the fastening means are attached, for obtaining adjustments of the waist measure of a shirt with advantageous distribution of the stresses, resulting in maximumstrength and resistance to ripping or tearing of the garment. The preferred embodiment of the invention is so proportioned that the fastening means and fabric elements for gathering the fullness at the waist portion of the shirt are slightly below the belt line of the average wearer. This prevents the gathering elements from showing and improves the appearance of the shirt, particularly at the back.

It is another object of the invention to provide a shirt construction that has an adjustable` waist that can be made without an excessive increase in the number of manufacturing operations required in the construction of the shirt. f

The term shirt as used in this specification and in the claims is used in a broad sense to designate blouses, waists, and other garments in the One feature of the invention relates nature of a shirt for wearby both men and women. Y

Other objects, features and advantages of the" pointed out as the' specication proceeds.

invention will` v appear or be In the drawing, in which like reference characters indicate corresponding parts in all the views: Y

Figure 1 is an elevation, partly broken away, of a shirt having adjusting means embodying this invention. f

Figure 2 is an enlarged sectional view across a part of theshirt, at the level of the section line 22, but showing the fullness of the shirt at the left hand side of Figure 1 gathered and conned between the tabs.

Figure 3 is an enlarged, fragmentary, perspective view showing the tabs, waist band and fasteningv meansof the shirt shown inthe other figures.

Figure 1 shows the invention applied to a mans shirt that has'conventional side seams I0, and that has a waist band H extending across the back of the waist portion of the shirt between the side seams I0; The purpose of the waist band H is to impart additional strength to the material and the waist band is attached to the material of the shirt by a line of stitching i2 along both the upper and lower edges of the waist band. The ends of the waist band ll extend into the side seams I0. n

On the outside of the shirt there is a tab l5. On `the inside of the shirt there is another tab i6'. Each of these tabs is attached to the shirt by having one end of the tab extend into the side seam l0 so that it is attached to the shirt by the stitching I1 of the side seam I il. Tins construction reduces the number of operations necessary in manufacturing the shirt as compared with a construction in which the tabs I5 and I6 would be connected to the material of the shirt by a separate stitching operation. It is a feature of the invention that the tabs l5 and I6 are connected to the shirt along the side seam so that they pull against a portion of the shirt that is reinforced by the extra thickness of material along the seam, but the invention can be applied to shirts by attaching the tabs I 5 and l S at some other location 'which is provided with suiiicient reinforcement.

There are fastening means for connecting the unattached or free ends of the tabs laandll Pam-onwato the waist band I I atllocations which are spaced along the waist band at such distance from the 2 l ,f of the waist portion of the shirt are gathered between the tabs I5 and I6, as shown in Figure 2, when the free end of the tabs are connected kto the waist band. i

vIn the preferred embodiment of the invention these fastening meansV comprise snap fasteners, such as commonly used on gloves, mens undershorts, etc. The fasteners 20 along the waist band I I preferably comprise double snap-socket elements which extend through the material of the shirt and through the waist Vband I Land have one socket opening toward the inside of the shirt andthe other socket opening toward the outside of the shirt. Complementary snap fastener elements 2| are connected tolthefreeor ItY isv the snap fasteners in the waist band because theV sockets are flatter than the complementary ball elements 2| and therefore make the back of the garment more comfortable. l

The

fastening devices

20 and 2| are merely representative of fastening means forconnecting the ends of the tabs with the waist band at spaced regions along the'waist band. Constructions in which fastening devices are connected with the tabs and extend through holes in the waist band at the same locations as the double sockets 20 may be used in placev of the specific fasteners shown.

Both of the tabs I5 and IB should be of the same effective length, the expression effective length being used to designate the distance from the fastening device 2| to the line along which the tab isconnected with the shirt. The inside tab I6 is of generally triangular shape and is Yconnected with the side seam I0 along the base portion of the triangle. The fastening device 2| is located adjacent the apex of the triangle.

Since this invention gathers the fullness of the shirt into a region under the belt of the wearer, the inside tab Itl must be of suilicient area to prevent the gathered material from pressing against the' wearer as anuncomfortable lump. The greatest thickness and concentration of gathered material is between the top and bottom edges of the outside tab I5. Beyond these edges of the outside tab the gathered material spreads outV both upwardly and downwardly, .By having the inside tab i6 of sufficient vertical dimension so that it extends both above and below the outside tab l5, the pressure against the wearers body is sufficiently distributed so that the gathered fullness between the tabs is not uncomfortable even though it is under a comparatively tight belt. Experience has shown that the height of the inside tab |6 should be at least two inches and preferably of the order of four inches. For the most advantageous distribution of pull on the inside tab, the effective length 0fl this tab should be at least half as great as the width of the atmeans for localzing the fullness in the waistpor tion of the shirt,fsaid means comprising a waist.

band secured to the material of the shirt across the back of said shirt, a tab attached at one end to the outside of the shirt at a location along the length of the waistband, another tab attached at its corresponding end to the inside of the shirt along the waistband at substantially the same location as the outside tab, and fastening means for holding the free ends of both tabs at any selected one of several fixed locations along the length'ofA the waist band, said xedlocations being spaced from the Aattached ends of the tabs by distances along the waistshirt is gathered between the tabs when their vfree ends are fastened at any one of said fixed locations.

2. A shirt-like garment having a waist portion, and including a tab of generally triangular form with its base extending in an up-and-down direction and attached to the inside ofthe garment, and fastening means for connecting the apex end of the tab with the waist portion of the garment at a region spaced from the attached end of the tab by a distance, across thematerial of the garment, greater than the effective length of said tab so that fullness of the garment is localized behind the tab, said tab being correlated with the gathered fullness, to prevent said fullness from being felt as an uncomfortable lump against the wearers body, the tab extending both above and below the region where the material i is most closely gathered and the up-and-down length of the attached end of the tab being in excessof two inches and the length Vof the tab transverse of ,itsl attached end being at least as great as one half of the up-and-down length of the attached end.

3. A shirt including two tabs of equal enective length and attached to opposite sides of the material of the shirt along substantially the same verticalV line at the waist portion of the shirt, and fastening means opposite each other for connect ing the unattached ends of the tabs to the waist portion of the shirt at various locations at distances from the attached ends of the tabs, said distances, when measured along the material of the shirt being greaterthan the effective length of the tabs.

4. A shirt having a waist portion and including a tab attached tothe outside of the waist portion along a vertically extending seam, another ta'bvof generally triangular cross section attachedalong the base of the triangle to the inside of the shirt along substantially the same line Yas the outside tab, and fastening means for connecting the unattached ends of the tabs to the waist portion of the shirt at a location on the back of the shirt that gathers fullness of the waist p ortion between the tabs, the vertical dimension ofthe Ainner tab being sufficient to cover thegathered material for some distance above and below the outside tab. v

5. A shirt including a waistband, a tab attached at one end to the inside ofl the Shirt at a location along the line of the waistband, another tab attached at its corresponding end to the outside of the shirt at substantially the same location as the inside tab, and glove-type fastening means for securing theunattached ends of the tab to the .waistbandjsaid fastening means oomprising an element connected to the waistband andv having snap socketsjon both theinside and outsideoflthe shirt, and acomplementary ball element connected to each of the tabs for insertion into one of said snap sockets.

6.. A shirt having a Waist portion and side seams, and including a band attached to the Waist portion across the back of the shirt between the side seams, a tab connected at one end to the outside of the shirt along one of the side seams, another tab of generally triangular shape connected along the base of the triangle to the inside of the shirt along the same portion of the side seam as the outside tab, a number of fastener elements in the Waist band of the shirt at locations spaced along the waist band at dis tances from the side seam greater than the effective lengths of the tabs, each of said fastener elements comprising the snap socket portion of a glove-type snap fastener and having sockets opening to both the inside and outside of the shirt, a fastener element at the unattached end of the outside tab, a similar fastener element at the corresponding end of the inside tab, the fastener elements on said tabs being equally spaced from the side seam of the shirt and each comprising the ball end of a snap fastener, and similar tabs and fastener elements on the back of the shirt and associated with the side seam on the other side of the shirt, the triangular inside tabs at both sides of the shirt being wide enough to cover gathered material between the tabs for a substantial distance above and below the outside tabs.

HERBERT L. SEEGAL.