US2016664A

US2016664A - Garment

Info

Publication number: US2016664A
Application number: US686341A
Authority: US
Inventors: Brewster Henry
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1933-08-23
Filing date: 1933-08-23
Publication date: 1935-10-08
Anticipated expiration: 1952-10-08

Description

H. BREWSTER GARMEN T Filed Aug. 25, 1935 jg fa fi 30 f f5 INVENTOR Henry f'ewaef BY /Mw ATTORNEYS Patented Oct. 8, 1935 UNITED lSTATES PATENT OFFICE 14 Claims.

My present invention has its preferred application to two-piece garments, the elements of which are connected together at the waist-band, and while the invention has a preferred applicability to boys suits, it has a wider range of utility for blouses, shirts, pajamas, overalls and other garments adapted for childrens or adult wear.

It is an object of the invention to p-rovide a garment of the above type in which excessive strain at the buttons or other waist-band attachment means is effectively relieved in the absence of elastic, and binding at the crotch, or

snapping off o-f buttons or ripping of button holes under bending strain of the wearer is thus substantially precluded.

Another object is to provide a garment of the above! type in which the strain relief is incorporated as a unitary part either `of the upper or blouse element or of the nether or pants or skirt element, and in which the garment is applied without the need for buttons, clasps or other fastening means to supplement those customarily used and without the need for any manipulation other than usual with garments of conventional construction. y

Another object is to provide a garment of the above type, which affords the added utility set forth, at manufacturing cost but slightly in ex cess of that of conventional garments.

Other objects will be in part obvious and in part pointed out hereinafter.

In the accompanying drawing, in which are shown one or more of various possible embodiments of the several features of the invention;

Fig. 1 is a perspective view ofthe garment as y applied to the wearer, shown partlyundone.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view indicating the functioning of the strain relief feature under bending movement ofthe wearer,

Fig. 3 is a rear View of the garment,

Fig. 4 is a detail plan view with parts broken away of the waist-band construction,

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional View on a larger scale taken on the line 5 5 of Fig. 3,

Fig. 6 is a View similar' to Fig.` 5 but taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3 of a somewhat modified form,

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but illustrating the relative position of the parts under strain,

Fig. 8 is a View on alarger scale taken on. line 8--8 of Fig. 4, and

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 6 of a modified construction.

Referring now to the drawing, there is shown a boys suit including the Waist or blouse element y parallel to fold Il at stitch line 22.

and a pants element. The body of the blouse element is of generally conventional construction including a front panel I3, a back panel III a collar I2 and a waist length portion I3, provided with buttons I4 to which attachment is made by 5 button holes I 5 in the waist-band I6 of the pants.

In the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 8, the buttons I4 at the rear panel of the blouse are not attached directly thereto, but excess material intervenes to permit the desired yield under 10 strain. In a preferred embodiment, the width of the rear panel is bent upward at the crease Il to provide an upward fold or ply I8, from the upper edge of which the material is folded downward at crease I9 to provide ply 2D from which extends the 15 valence or waist length portion 2| protruding below the fold I'I. Preferably the fabric of panel I I and of ply I8 are attached together adjacent and The buttons I4 are stitched to the waist length portion 2l, 20 preferably at the level of the fold line I1 so that the folded edge Il will preferably extend over the upper halves `of the respective buttons, as best shown in Figs. 3 and 6. Preferably the waist length portion is doubled by folding back along 25 line 25, the rear ply I3 being stitched in place at 26.

As appears clearly from Fig. 5, the construction thus affords three superposed plies II, I8 and 20, immediately above the waist length 30 2 I-I3. Said plies are rigidly stitched together at regions between successive buttons as at the triangular areas of stitching 28.

It is preferred in addition, to stitch together the two plies I8 and 20 of the reverse fold along 35 curved lines 29 determining pockets 30, the openings of which symmetrically straddle the respective buttons.

In the slight modification shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the element 2| extends in asingle ply, of the 40 same or of greater width than ply 2I of Fig. 5. To afford a sufficient anchorage for buttons I4, the reinforce ply I3 of Fig. 5 being here omitted,

a reinforcing width of tape 23 is stitched as at 2'1 immediately below pockets 30, whereby affording a double ply of material for attachment of the buttons.

It is clear that in either embodiment the pants are buttoned to the blouse in the usual manner -at buttons I4 and without the need for special 50 manipulation, and the pants are held up with the same security as in conventional constructions. The garment involves the use of but a slightly added width of material and but a negligible 'addition to the cost of manufacture. ,155

When the wearer bends over, as illustrated best in Fig. 2, it will be seen that the strain on the respective buttons i4 tends to deect or distort the pockets 3B adjacent the buttons to afford a substantial give, so that, unlike conventional constructions, the buttons will not tear off under strain or the button holes be ripped nor will excessive binding occur at the crotch. When the wearer resumes erect position, the pockets 3@ will again be restored to the flat condition shown in Fig. 5 despite the fact that no elastic isused.

The two added plies I8 and 2l] immediately above the waist length, it is clear, serve to strengthen the garment and to preserve its shape.

In Fig. 9 is shown a modification in which substantially the idea above set forth is shown with the strain relief incorporated in the nether rather than in the upp'er garment. In this embodiment, the fabric 3i is reversely bent at the upper edge of the body, to afford two

fold plies

32 and 33 with the appropriate waist length portion 34 extending thereabove and reversely bent to afford reinforce width 35 stitched in place as at 36, button holes 38 extending through the waist length.

The three plies of the body tl and the two fold plies 3| and 32 are stitched together at 39 between the button holes, as in the embodiment of Figs, l to 8, and preferably there is also the curved line of stitching 3U connecting the body 3l and the intermediate ply 32 and determining the pockets 4l.

It will be understood that with the pants constructed, as set forth in Fig. 9, the conventional blouse construction could be employed, but if desired, the strain relieving construction may be` applied at both the upper and nether garment.

It is, of course, apparent that the invention is not limited in its applicability to use of a button fastener but is of wider applicability where hook, snap, pinch or other fasteners are employed in lieu of buttons.

The term waist length as used in the specification and claims, refers to that portion of the garment at or near the waist of the wearer at which the tearing strain on the buttons, buttonholes, or other fasteners thereat would occur in the absence of my invention.

It will thus be seen that there is herein described an article in which the several features of this invention are embodied, and which article in its action attains the various objects of the invention and is well suited to meet the requirements of practical use.

As many changes could be made in the above construction, and many apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope thereof, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted as illustrative ,and not in a limiting sense.

The copending application, Serial No. 734,491, filed July l0, 1934, now Patent No. 2,010,345, is specically directed to a construction suchas shown in the present application, in which elastic is utilized in connection with the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 8 for lgiving eXtra yield to the garment. All subject matter specifically directed to the combination of an elastic is included in said copending application.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-

1. A garment having a waist-length with fastening elements thereat, said garment including means to relieve strain under bending movement of the wearer, said means including corresponding pockets adjacent the respective fastening elements and opening toward the latter, on the same side of the garment one side of each pocket continuous with the body of said garment, the other side of each pocket having one of the fastening elements associated therewith.

2. An upper garment including a body, having a horizontal fold of two plies and a waist-length below said fold with fastening elements thereon, both plies of said fold being stitched to the body of said garment, said stitching affording pocket shaped areas opening` at said fastening elements, adapted to expand under strain and to return to flattened position when the strain is relieved, said fold being concealed inside o-f said body and said pocket areas opening toward said fastening elements.

3. An upper garment including a waist-length, the fabric of said garment above said waist-length having a horizontal upwardly extending fold of two plies, fastening elements on said waist-band and stitching between successive fastening means, firmly connecting Ythe garment, and the two plies of the fold, said stitching'extending along the line of applied strain and substantially along the line of the fastening means, said fold being concealed inside of said body and said pocket areas opening toward said fastening elements.

4. An upper garment including a body portion having a reversely folded portion determining a waist-length at the lower end thereof, buttons on said waist-length, lines of stitching rigidly connecting the three plies determined by the garment, the upwardly folded and the downwardly folded portions, and disposed between successive buttons, and additional stitching connecting only the two plies of the reversely bent portion and determining open pockets adjacent the respective buttons.V

5. An upper garment element including a garment proper, the fabric of said garment at the rear portion thereof being reversely folded to afford aV projecting waist-length portion, said waistlength portion including an auxiliary reinforced strip, buttons attached to said reinforced waistlength portion, means located between successive buttons'and rigidly connecting the three plies, determined by the garment proper, the upwardly and the downwardly extending fold, and additional stitching connecting only the two plies determined by the upwardly and downwardly eX- tending folds and determining pockets open toward and adjacent the respective buttons.

6. A childs waist wholly of woven substantially non-elastic fabric, the fabric of said waist being reversely folded at therear portion thereof, to determine three superposed plies, from the undermost of which extends a waist-length portion, buttons attached to said waist-length portion, areas of stitching rigidly connecting the three plies at the regions between successive buttons and additional lines of stitching connecting only the two reversely bent plies and affording pockets opening toward the respective buttons.

7. A nether garment including a Vgarment proper, a waist-length having button holes therein 8. A garment having a portion thereof encircling the waist of the wearer, said garment having a horizontal fold line adjacent the waist determining a narrow width of three plies of material with the body extending from one of the outer plies and the material projecting beyond -the other outer ply, fasteners secured to said latter projecting ply, a tape reinforcing said latter ply adjacent said fasteners, the three plies being rigidly secured together at the regions between consecutive fasteners and the two upper plies only being secured together across the respective lines of applied strain.

9. An upper garment having the material thereof reversely folded along a horizontal line to determine three superposed plies near the waist of the wearer with the material projecting downward in a single ply beyond the lowermost ply, a reinforced tape on the rear face of said projecting ply, fasteners attached to said latter ply and the said tape, the three plies rigidly secured together between consecutive fasteners, and the two upper plies only being secured together across the respective lines of applied strain. i

10. A childs waist wholly of woven substantially non-elastic fabric, said fabric being reversely folded along a horizontal fold at the rear portion thereof, determining three superposed plies, the material projecting downward in a single ply below the lowermost of the three plies, a reinforced tape secured to said latter ply, buttons attached to said ply and tape, the three plies rigidly stitched together at the regions between consecutive buttons and additional lines of stitching connecting only the two plies covered by the body of the garment and affording pockets opening toward the respective buttons.

l1. A garment having a body portion and a waist portion with a line of attachments around said waist-portion for attachment to a complementary garment, said waist portion at the rear of said garment including a fold of fabric in which the fabric is folded upwardly and downwardly to form a pleat of three plies around the rear of said waist portion, said upward and downward folds being connected to each other and to the fabric by stitching extending across said pleat and said attachments being connected to said waist portion adjacent the bottom of said fold, said stitching forming a series of pockets, a pocket being positioned directly above and opening toward each of said attachments.

12. A garment having a body portion and a waist portion with a line of attachments around said waist portion for attachment to a complementary garment, said waist portion at the rear of said garment including a fold of fabric in 5 which the fabric is folded upwardly and downwardly to form a pleat of three plies around the rear of said waist portion, said upward and downward folds being connected to each other and to the fabric by stitching extending across said pleat pockets straddling said attachments and said folds being stitched to said fabric between said pockets.

13. A garment having a body portion and a waist portion with a line of attachments around said waist portion for attachment to a complementary garment, said .waist portion at the rear of said garment including a fold of fabric in which the fabric is folded upwardly and downwardly to form a pleat of three plies around the rear of said waist portion, said upward and downward folds being connected to each other and to the fabric by stitching extending across said pleat and said attachments being connected to said waist portion adjacent the bottom of said fold, said upward and downward folds being stitched together and to the fabric between said attachments, said attachments being partly concealed within said pleat between said stitchedtogether portions.

14. A garment having a body portion and a waist portion with a line of attachments around said waist portion for attachment to a complementary garment, said waist portion at the rear of said garment including a fold of fabric in which the fabric is folded upwardly and downwardly to form a pleat of three plies around the rear of said waist portion, said upward and downward folds being connected to each other and to the fabric by stitching extending across said pleat and said attachments being connected to said waist portion adjacent the bottom of said fold, said stitching being sinuous-like to form pockets straddling said attachments and said upward fold being to the rear of the fabric and concealed thereby and said return downward fold being innermost inside of said upward fold.

- HENRY BREWSTER.