US2362248A - Manufacture of collars for personal wear - Google Patents

Manufacture of collars for personal wear Download PDF

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Publication number
US2362248A
US2362248A US242547A US24254738A US2362248A US 2362248 A US2362248 A US 2362248A US 242547 A US242547 A US 242547A US 24254738 A US24254738 A US 24254738A US 2362248 A US2362248 A US 2362248A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
collar
tape
neckband
collars
blank
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US242547A
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Corteen Harry
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd filed Critical Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co Ltd
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US2362248A publication Critical patent/US2362248A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the manufacture of collars for personal wear. Collars are out from a sheet or web of material which is flat, and yet in wear they must, in order to fit agreeably on the wearer, be curved around the neck.
  • collars or the neckbands of collars are cut straight or without the requisite curve from a flat web of material in which the warp threads are paralleLwhereupon the length of the major part of the collar fabric is varied as compared with a narrow area adjacent to the loweredge alone of the neckband or inner fold of the collar, for example by applying to the lower part of the neckband a contracting force to produce a contraction of the overall length of the neckband along the line of application greater than the contraction due to shrink-' age of the cloth in the rest of the collar, the finished collar remaining substantially in that curvature even after repeated washings;
  • Brestretched i. .e. possessing potential shrinkageythreads or films may be used instead of, or in conjunction with, pre-stretched woven tape.
  • Such pre-stretched tapes, threads or films may be applied to the localized area to be shrunk by means other than sewing, or they may be incorported within the localized area during the initial Weaving operation; or th y may be incorporated in the seams or between the plies in the make up of all ordinary types of collars for example soft, fused (that is to say where threads or a sheet of plastic material fusible by heat is incorporated with the collar material so that this may be stiffened) or starched whether one piece, or 2 piece, single ply, 2 ply or multiply. It is also possible to use threads or tapes made of wool, or creped yarns which have not been prestretched but which possess a tendency to contract when washed.
  • one or more rows of sewing machine stitches are applied to this area of the neckband under a higher tension or with a coarser needle or with a greater number of stitches per inch or by stitching through a greater number of layersthan the stitches in the main or centre seam or a number of these methods used together.
  • a further alternative method is to apply a chemical shrinking liquor to this localized area, e. g. a mercerising liquor such as caustic soda of mercerising strength and the curve produced in this way may be made more permanent by the addition of non-extensible seams.
  • a chemical shrinking liquor e. g. a mercerising liquor such as caustic soda of mercerising strength and the curve produced in this way may be made more permanent by the addition of non-extensible seams.
  • Figure 5 is a similar view to Figure 1 showing the collar after treatment and finishing.
  • Figure 6 is an end view of the finished collar of Figure 5.
  • Figure '7 is a plan view of a double collar treated in a modified way.
  • Figure 8 is a plan View of a double collar treated in another way.
  • a collar (Figure 1) is cut out from a piece of continuous web (preferably a well shrunk cotton or linen cloth) with the warp threads I at right angles to the weft and running parallel to the length of the collar in both outer fold 2 of the double collar and also inner fold or neckband 3.
  • the collar may be edged with tape 4 which is an ordinary woven tape (as shown in Figure 2) or where a two ply collar is required, the two pieces may be stitched together as in Figures 3 and 4.
  • tape 4 which is an ordinary woven tape (as shown in Figure 2) or where a two ply collar is required, the two pieces may be stitched together as in Figures 3 and 4.
  • the fold line or centre seam of the double collar can be strengthened r demarcated by an ordinary woven tape 6 or by rows of stitching i ( Figure 3).
  • a specially prepared tape 8 is applied.
  • This tape 8 is one which possesses considerable contracting force when wetted, i. e. a shrinkage greatly in excess of the natural slight shrinkage of either the fabric 2, 3 or the tapes 4, E.
  • a A wide cotton tape of this character capable of 23% extension before breaking in the wet state is wetted and stretched 20% by any convenient tensioning means and then dried while under tension.
  • a tape 6 of this kind is then attached to the lower edge of the neck-band of the collar by stitching it under normal tension.
  • the tape 8 On wetting the whole collar or the part to which the tape is attached or more usually on washing and dressing in finishing, the tape 8 will contract and bring the neckband 3, and particularly its lower edge into a curved shape. This curve is particularly resistant against laundry processes and a considerable force is required to remove the curve. If any of this curve is removed by excessive stretching of the lower edge of the neckband this stretching reinstates the potential laundry shrinkage in the tape 8 so that the curve is reproduced when the collar is again wetted.
  • a piece of ordinary tape can be sewn at 6 and 9 with for instance a 3 cord 120s sewing cotton twelve to fourteen stitches to the linear inch using a No. 11 Simanco needle in a Singer 95 K machine with less thread tension than usual, whilst along the bottom of the neckband at [0 a. seam is sewn with, for instance, a six cord 24s .cottontwenty-four to twenty-six stitches to the inch using a Wilcox & Gibbs No. 6 needle in an Adler needle-feed machine with excess tension on both shuttle and needle threads. Buttonholing may be done at this stage.
  • This seam may be sewn on the collar material, or may be sewn On an ordinary tape'fixed to the neckband or may be one or more parallel lines of stitching as shown.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting in cutting a collar blank from a fiat web of material in which the warp threads are straight and are parallel to one another, and subsequently imparting a permanent longitudinal contraction solely over a narrow area. situated along the total length of one longitudinal edge alone of the blank which will form the lower edge of the neckband.
  • a method of manufacturing collars including the step of securing to that part alone of the fabric which will form the lower edge of the neckband, threads set whilst tensioned, and then releasing the setting after the cutting of the collar blank.
  • a method of manufacturing collars includ mg the step of securing to that part alone of the fabric which will form the lower edge of the neckband, a woven tape set whilst tensioned, and then releasing the setting after the cutting of the collar blank.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting in cutting a collar blank from a web of material, setting a tensioned tape to prevent its contraction, securing said set tape to the whole of th lower longitudinal edge of the neckband of I the collar blank between the stud holes, and then releasing the setting of the tape.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting in cutting a collar blank from a web of material, stretching a length of tape, setting said length of tape in the stretched condition, securing said set tape along the lower longitudinal edge of the neckband of the cut collar blank between the stud holes substantially parallel with the fold line and then releasing the setting of said tape.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting of cutting a collar blank from a web of material, weaving a length of tape, moistening said tape, stretching said tape whilst so moistened, drying said tape whilst stretched in order to set it, securing said set tape along the lower longitudinal edge of the neckband of the collar 11.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting in cutting a collar blank from a web of blank between the stud holes and then releasing material, weaving a length of tape under tension,
  • a method of manufacturing collars con sisting in cutting a collar blankfrom a web of material, applying longitudinal rows of stitches under high tension parallel with and along that part of the lower edge of the neckband of the cut collar blank which lies between the stud holes and then wetting the blank.
  • a method of manufacturing collars consisting in cutting a collar blank from a web of material, applying to that part of the lower edge of the neckband alone, which lies between the stud holes, and parallel with that edge, rows of densely associated stitches capableof contraction on wetting,- and then wetting the blank.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
US242547A 1937-11-29 1938-11-26 Manufacture of collars for personal wear Expired - Lifetime US2362248A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB32833/37A GB512316A (en) 1937-11-29 1937-11-29 A new or improved process for obtaining shrinkage of sheet material

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US2362248A true US2362248A (en) 1944-11-07

Family

ID=10344671

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US242547A Expired - Lifetime US2362248A (en) 1937-11-29 1938-11-26 Manufacture of collars for personal wear

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US2362248A (en)van)
BE (1) BE431353A (en)van)
DE (1) DE871431C (en)van)
FR (1) FR870651A (en)van)
GB (1) GB512316A (en)van)
NL (1) NL50783C (en)van)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20090282604A1 (en) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-19 Nike, Inc. Apparel With Raised Course Crease

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20090282604A1 (en) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-19 Nike, Inc. Apparel With Raised Course Crease
US8161574B2 (en) * 2008-05-16 2012-04-24 Nike, Inc. Apparel with raised course crease

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
BE431353A (en)van)
NL50783C (en)van)
DE871431C (de) 1953-03-23
FR870651A (fr) 1942-03-20
GB512316A (en) 1939-09-01

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