US1968409A - Apparel - Google Patents

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Publication number
US1968409A
US1968409A US603242A US60324232A US1968409A US 1968409 A US1968409 A US 1968409A US 603242 A US603242 A US 603242A US 60324232 A US60324232 A US 60324232A US 1968409 A US1968409 A US 1968409A
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United States
Prior art keywords
threads
fabric
collar
plies
ply
Prior art date
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Expired - Lifetime
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US603242A
Inventor
Liebowitz Benjamin
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TRUBENIZING PROCESS Corp
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TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP
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Priority to US603242A priority Critical patent/US1968409A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00Collars
    • A41B3/10Collars chemically stiffened
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • A41D27/06Stiffening-pieces
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M17/00Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
    • D06M17/02Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying cellulose derivatives as adhesives

Description

July 31, 1934. B, LlEBOWlTZ 1,968,409 APPAREL Filed April 5, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet l [11%VENTEDR. e AWAY z ATTORNEY.
July 31, 1934.
B. LIEBOWITZ 1,968,409
APPAiaEL Filed April 5, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I I QNVENTOR. ggwcmvm wmvm ATTORNEY.
Patented July 31, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE APPAREL Benjamin Liebowitz, New York, N. Y., assignor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application April 5, 1932, Serial No. 603,242
11 Claims.
This invention relates to articles of wearing apparel.
It is an object of the invention to provide a porous moisture permeable stiffened or partly stiffened article of wearing apparel, which is of such character that it may be laundered repeatedly without deleteriously affecting its stiffenin properties.
A further object of this invention is to provide simple, practical and efficient means for binding together a plurality of plies of fabric in the course of manufacture of an article of wearing apparel such as a collar, cuff, or the like.
The invention is particularly suitable for use in the production of stiffened collars of the semisoft or soft roll type. collar a stiffened appearance without necessity of starching, and, inasmuch as the stiffener is pervious both to air and moisture,'its use will not render the collar less comfortable to wear or more difiicult to launder.
While in the following description and accompanying drawings I shall describe and illustrate the invention in relation to its use for stiffening collars, it is to be understood that it may be used for other purposes and that modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.
Generally stated, the invention comprises the use of an arrangement of threads of cellulose ester as a stiffening medium and binder for uniting two or more plies of textile fabric.
I am aware that prior to my invention it has been proposed to stiffen fabrics for use in making collars and other articles of apparel by treating the fabrics with a stiffening agent composed of a solution of cellulose ester such as nitrocellulose, or esters of the higher acetates, for example: pyroxyline or celluloid compositions.
Such treatment, while it results in stiffening the fabric, has the disadvantage that it renders the fabric impervious to moisture. In order that the fabric may be easily and thoroughly washed as well as smoothly ironed, it is desirable that the stiffener be so arranged as not to make the fabric impervious to water.
According to my invention, I attain this purposeby stiffening the fabric with artificial threads employing cellulose as a base or initial basic material, such as celanese, acele or the like. A distinguishing feature of the invention is that the threads are spaced apart, relatively to their thickness or diameter, sufficiently to prevent them from filming over, and thus filling or closing the spaces,
In such use it gives the when the threads are peptized or treated with a'solvent.
In the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 is a plan view of a loosely woven fabric or network of cellulose ester threads;
Fig. 2 is a view showing the cellulose ester fabric I inserted between two plies of textilefabric;
Figs. 3 and 4 represent embodiments of the invention applied to collars having an interlining between the stiffener and the outer ply of the collar;
Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate applications of the invention to collars in which'the interlining between the stiffener and the outer ply of the collar is omitted.
The stiffening material, in the form shown in Figure 1, comprises a network of threads 10 of cellulose ester, such as a woven fabric comprising yarns or threads of celanese, acele, or the like.
11 and 12 represent two layers or plies of textile fabric between which the woven fabric or network 10 of cellulose ester threads is placed. The assembly is .then stiffened and bound together by moistening with acetone or other suitable solvent which will peptize the cellulose ester threads. A preferred method of doing this is to place the plies between two pads wet with the solvent and applying pressure. Heat and further pressure is then applied, as a result of which the solvent is driven off. The cellulose ester remains behind no longer as a fabric, but as a checkered structure, partlydispersed into the adjoining fabric plies, which checkered structure adhesively binds the plies together and stiffens them. It is to be noted that in the practice of my invention the adhesive binder does not form a continuous film but has open spaces which make the laminated fabric 'pervious both to air and water.
In the embodiment of the invention shown in Fig. 3 the collar has an outer ply 13, an interlining 14, lying next to the outer ply and extending the full length of the collar, a loosely woven fabric or network 15 of celanese or the like, and an inner ply 16. In this instance; the celanese does not extend completely around the collar but only the points are stiffened, although it is to be understood that if desired the entire collar may be stiffened.
Fig. 4 shows a modification in which a second layer 1'1 of loosely woven fabric of celanese is employed and an additional interlining 18 is applied between the two layers of celanese 15 and 1'1. Instead of having the celanese fabric 15 and 17 and the lining 1B of separate parts, they may be interwoven in one piece with the celanese threads.
In the forms of the invention shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the interlining 14 is omitted and the celanese is applied directly against the outer ply of the collar. In this use it is desirable to em-. ploy a finer weave so that the celanese structure will not show on the outside surface of the collar, as is the case when a celanesefabric of very coarse weave is used without an interlining between the celanese and the outer ply.
In connection with the forms of collar shown in Figs. 3 and 4, I have found that good results are obtained by using a celanese fabric formed of multiple ply threads totaling from 200 to 300 dernier and counting approximately 12 meshes per inch in the warp and/or the filler. In the forms shown in Figs. 5 and 6', I have obtained good results by using celanese fabric composed of threads measuring or dernier and counting about 35 to the inch in the warp and/or filler.
One of the important advantages of my'invention lies in the fact that the collar or other article of apparel can, be fabricated by usual methods and the stifl'ening treatment applied after the stitching operations are completed.v As, for example, in the collars illustrated, the several parts, are first sewn together and then turned .iriside out, as usual, whereupon the piles are again stitched along the lines 19.
The material is then stiffened as hereinbefore described which stiffening operation may be performed either prior or subsequent to forming the.
. are adhesively bound together, so as to form, in
effect, a one-ply collar somewhat like a starched collar, but with the advantage that the adhesive binding and stiffening remains substantially unaltered af'terrepeated washings except that duringthe first washing a small decrease in stiffen ing may result due, mainly, to the dissolving of ingredients in the unwashed fabrics themselves.
The binder is of such character as permanently to stiflen the article to which it isvapplied or in which it is used, as to be substantially insoluble in water or ordinary laundering reagents, as not to be softened materially when wetwith water, and as to be substantially unaffected by ordinary laundering or ironing temperatures. While I have described my invention ,as carried out by means of commercially available cellulose acetate fabrics such as celanese or acele, it is to be understood that binding materials of other physical and chemical composition may be employed.
threads in open mesh arrangement.
2. A moisture permeable stiffened articleof a parel comprising two or more piles of textile fabric having their opposed faces adhesively united with a binder comprising a plurality of cellulose derivative threads. said threads being spaced relatively to each other a distance greater than the thickness or diameter of each thread.
3. A moisture permeable stiffened article of apparel comprising two or more plies of textile fabric having their opposed faces adhesively united with a binder of cellulose derivative elements arranged to provide open spaces between said elements. r
4. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply,
an inner ply, and an intermediate adhesive stiffening layer comp sin cellulose derivative threads disposed in intersticed arrangement.
5. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply, an interlining, an inner ply, and an adhesive stiifening' layer of cellulose derivative threads between the interlining and the inner ply, said cellulose derivative threads being disposed in intersticed arrangement.
6. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply, an inner ply, and an-adhesive stiffening layer interposed between said plies, said adhesive stiffening layer comprising textile lining material having cellulose ester threads in the form of an open mesh on both faces of the lining material.
'1. The method of making a stiflened article of apparel which comprises applying a'fabric comprising cellulose derivative. threads betweenthe opposed faces of two plies of textile fabric, treating the laminated fabric with a solvent adapted to peptize the cellulose derivative threads, and applying pressure and heat to unite and stiffen the plies. i
8. The methodof making a stiffened article of apparel which comprises applying an open mesh fabric of cellulose ester threads between the-opposed faces of two plies of textile fabric treating the laminated fabric with a solvent adapted to peptize the cellulose ester threads, and applying pressure and heat to unite and stiiien the plies, the threads of the cellulose esterfabric being so spaced that when peptized' interstices will be left between the threads.
9. The 'method of making a semi-soft collar which consists in forming a complete collar com-' prising outer and inner plies of textile'fabric and an intermediate plycomprising cellulose derivative threads, wetting complete collar with a solvent which will peptize the cellulose derivative threads, and applying heat and pressure to unite and stiffen the plies.
10. An article of apparel comprising plies of textile fabric united by a discontinuous adhesive layer, the'discontinuitles whereof are spaced sufficiently closely so that their pattern will not be apparent on the surface of the article.
11. A garment part comprising plies of textile fabric united by an adhesive layer having interstices which are spaced sufilciently closely so that the patternof said interstices will not be apparent on the surface of the article.
BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ'.
DISCLAIMER l,968,409.-Benjdniin I/iebowitz, New York, 'N. Y. Armin. Patent dated uly 31, 1934. Disclaimer filed May 17, 1939, by the ca, Celene Corporation of America. I
' Hmb enters this disclaimer to claims 2, a, 4, 7, 9 10, and 11 of mid specification.
Gazette June 18, 1.989.]
In the forms of the invention shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the interlining 14 is omitted and the celanese is applied directly against the outer ply of the collar. In this use it is desirable to em-. ploy a finer weave so that the celanese structure will not show on the outside surface of the collar, as is the case when a celanesefabric of very coarse weave is used without an interlining between the celanese and the outer ply.
In connection with the forms of collar shown in Figs. 3 and 4, I have found that good results are obtained by using a celanese fabric formed of multiple ply threads totaling from 200 to 300 dernier and counting approximately 12 meshes per inch in the warp and/or the filler. In the forms shown in Figs. 5 and 6', I have obtained good results by using celanese fabric composed of threads measuring or dernier and counting about 35 to the inch in the warp and/or filler.
One of the important advantages of my'invention lies in the fact that the collar or other article of apparel can, be fabricated by usual methods and the stifl'ening treatment applied after the stitching operations are completed.v As, for example, in the collars illustrated, the several parts, are first sewn together and then turned .iriside out, as usual, whereupon the piles are again stitched along the lines 19.
The material is then stiffened as hereinbefore described which stiffening operation may be performed either prior or subsequent to forming the.
. are adhesively bound together, so as to form, in
effect, a one-ply collar somewhat like a starched collar, but with the advantage that the adhesive binding and stiffening remains substantially unaltered af'terrepeated washings except that duringthe first washing a small decrease in stiffen ing may result due, mainly, to the dissolving of ingredients in the unwashed fabrics themselves.
The binder is of such character as permanently to stiflen the article to which it isvapplied or in which it is used, as to be substantially insoluble in water or ordinary laundering reagents, as not to be softened materially when wetwith water, and as to be substantially unaffected by ordinary laundering or ironing temperatures. While I have described my invention ,as carried out by means of commercially available cellulose acetate fabrics such as celanese or acele, it is to be understood that binding materials of other physical and chemical composition may be employed.
threads in open mesh arrangement.
2. A moisture permeable stiffened articleof a parel comprising two or more piles of textile fabric having their opposed faces adhesively united with a binder comprising a plurality of cellulose derivative threads. said threads being spaced relatively to each other a distance greater than the thickness or diameter of each thread.
3. A moisture permeable stiffened article of apparel comprising two or more plies of textile fabric having their opposed faces adhesively united with a binder of cellulose derivative elements arranged to provide open spaces between said elements. r
4. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply,
an inner ply, and an intermediate adhesive stiffening layer comp sin cellulose derivative threads disposed in intersticed arrangement.
5. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply, an interlining, an inner ply, and an adhesive stiifening' layer of cellulose derivative threads between the interlining and the inner ply, said cellulose derivative threads being disposed in intersticed arrangement.
6. A semi-soft collar comprising an outer ply, an inner ply, and an-adhesive stiffening layer interposed between said plies, said adhesive stiffening layer comprising textile lining material having cellulose ester threads in the form of an open mesh on both faces of the lining material.
'1. The method of making a stiflened article of apparel which comprises applying a'fabric comprising cellulose derivative. threads betweenthe opposed faces of two plies of textile fabric, treating the laminated fabric with a solvent adapted to peptize the cellulose derivative threads, and applying pressure and heat to unite and stiffen the plies. i
8. The methodof making a stiffened article of apparel which comprises applying an open mesh fabric of cellulose ester threads between the-opposed faces of two plies of textile fabric treating the laminated fabric with a solvent adapted to peptize the cellulose ester threads, and applying pressure and heat to unite and stiiien the plies, the threads of the cellulose esterfabric being so spaced that when peptized' interstices will be left between the threads.
9. The 'method of making a semi-soft collar which consists in forming a complete collar com-' prising outer and inner plies of textile'fabric and an intermediate plycomprising cellulose derivative threads, wetting complete collar with a solvent which will peptize the cellulose derivative threads, and applying heat and pressure to unite and stiffen the plies.
10. An article of apparel comprising plies of textile fabric united by a discontinuous adhesive layer, the'discontinuitles whereof are spaced sufficiently closely so that their pattern will not be apparent on the surface of the article.
11. A garment part comprising plies of textile fabric united by an adhesive layer having interstices which are spaced sufilciently closely so that the patternof said interstices will not be apparent on the surface of the article.
BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ'.
DISCLAIMER l,968,409.-Benjdniin I/iebowitz, New York, 'N. Y. Armin. Patent dated uly 31, 1934. Disclaimer filed May 17, 1939, by the ca, Celene Corporation of America. I
' Hmb enters this disclaimer to claims 2, a, 4, 7, 9 10, and 11 of mid specification.
Gazette June 18, 1.989.]
US603242A 1932-04-05 1932-04-05 Apparel Expired - Lifetime US1968409A (en)

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NL41657D NL41657C (en) 1932-04-05
FR753833D FR753833A (en) 1932-04-05
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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2418716A (en) * 1944-06-14 1947-04-08 Kennedy Richard Oakley Shirt collar
US2601036A (en) * 1950-12-05 1952-06-17 Liebowitz Benjamin Article of wearing apparel
DE767479C (en) * 1935-03-15 1952-09-08 Joshua Harold Goldman Process for producing fibrous sheets
US2657391A (en) * 1948-11-24 1953-11-03 American Optical Corp Hand covering
US2674741A (en) * 1951-03-21 1954-04-13 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Shirt collar
US2806223A (en) * 1951-05-21 1957-09-17 Metzger Paul Method of making a soft collar
US4555428A (en) * 1982-04-13 1985-11-26 Stedman Corporation Multi-layer unitized fabric construction and method of making same
US20070118955A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-31 Kapadia Jay R Stain resistant interlining for clothing

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE740237C (en) * 1940-06-27 1943-10-15 Johannes Lehmann Method of making a loose, stretchable, curled gauze-type fabric

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE767479C (en) * 1935-03-15 1952-09-08 Joshua Harold Goldman Process for producing fibrous sheets
US2418716A (en) * 1944-06-14 1947-04-08 Kennedy Richard Oakley Shirt collar
US2657391A (en) * 1948-11-24 1953-11-03 American Optical Corp Hand covering
US2601036A (en) * 1950-12-05 1952-06-17 Liebowitz Benjamin Article of wearing apparel
US2674741A (en) * 1951-03-21 1954-04-13 Cluett Peabody & Co Inc Shirt collar
US2806223A (en) * 1951-05-21 1957-09-17 Metzger Paul Method of making a soft collar
US4555428A (en) * 1982-04-13 1985-11-26 Stedman Corporation Multi-layer unitized fabric construction and method of making same
US20070118955A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-31 Kapadia Jay R Stain resistant interlining for clothing
US20090229029A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2009-09-17 Oxford Industries, Inc. Stain release interlining for clothing

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Publication number Publication date
FR753833A (en) 1933-10-24
NL41657C (en)

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