US2357347A - Under and over stitching machine - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 5, 1944 V. NAFTALI UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Filed Sept. 20, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l QMQN QM m TEE

INVENTOR' VALENTINE NAE'TALI 5Y yyg a? K ATTORNEY Sept. 5, 1944. v. NAFTALl UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Filed Sept. 20, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR VALENTINE NAFTALI BY ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 5, 1944 UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Valentine Naftali, Pelham Manor, N. Y., assignor to American Machine and Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application September 20, 1940, Serial No. 357,532 '7 Claims. (01. 112 -173) This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, particularly for stitching neckties and the like, or for applying a decorative stitch to afabric.

One of the objects of the invention is to produce a so-called running stitch of the type which provides a series of spaced stitches resembling ,hand stitches in appearance and resiliency.

A further object of the invention is the providing of new and simplified means for producing a stitch of the type made by the machine disclosed in the patent to Naftali et al., Reissue No. 19,653.

An additional object of the invention is to provide means for making a decorative stitch of' this general type, the visible portions of which are at a slant to the stitch line.

Another object is to provide improved means for joining together a necktie lining and fabric by means of a coiled spiral needle inserting aresilient stitch.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved type of stitch which will have more resiliency-than found in the ordinary slip stitch used in sewing necktie fabrics together.

Another object is to provide a mechanism which is of relatively simple construction to more rapidly form running stitches.

An additional object isto provide a mechanism for making a stitch which is located between the edges of the fabrics sewn by means of a cylindrical helical needle.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in View, the invention consists of certain constructions hereinafter described and then pointed out in the claims hereunto appended.

same;

Figure 3 is an enlarged detail View showing the tie material, lining and the spiral needle;

Figure 4 is a detail View of the material clamp bar provided with rack teeth of the same pitch as the spiral of the needle; and

Figure is 'a showing of the tie material and lining stitched together. I

Referring to the drawings, the machine con-' sists of a work table II] supported by end frames II, table II) being provided with a longitudinal aperture I2 adapted to receive a revolving spiral needle I3 having an eye I4 in its leading pointed end. The end of th spiral needle I3, opposite to eye I4, is attached to a threaded rod I5 (Figures 1 and 1a). The threads of rod I5 intermesh'with the threads formed in bushings 3|. Bushings 3| are removably mounted in stationary bearings I6 and may be replaced with other bushings having threads of a different pitch in order to accommodate a different spiral needle rod, which rod will be advanced at a faster or slower rate depending on the pitch of the threads on said rod.

A rotating gear I! is provided between bearings I6 and bushings 3| for turning rod I5 clockwise and counterclockwise. A hole I8 is formed in the central portion of gear II for receiving rod I5. Formed in said hole I8 of gear H are two opposed keys 32 which slide in corresponding keyways 33 cut in each side of rod I5. Hole I8 is of sufficient largeness to allow the threads of rod I5 to freely pass through hole I3 without coming into contact with the gear I 'l.

A longitudinal slot I9 is provided in table I0 to receive the tie material T and lining L to be stitched and a bar 20 having rack teeth 2i (Figure 4) of the same pitch as the spiral of needle I3 to hold the materials in place. Although a bar is shown as the member used to force and hold the tie fabrics in the aperture, many other suitable means, such as a rod, tongue, plate, etc., could also be used to accomplish this result. The bar 20 is pivotally mounted on a stud 22 carried by a bracket 23 (Figure 1) attached to table I0,

so that it can be lifted from the Work at the comspect to the lining L. A pair of clamp bars 21 are attached to arms 28' in such a way as to swing downwardly to clamp the tie material and lining against the surface 24 to hold the same in position during the sewing operation. Arms 28 are fastened to rods 29, which in turn are supported by brackets 30, which brackets 30 are connected to table I0 by suitable means.

The operation of the machine can be briefly described as follows:

With the spiral needle I3 in a withdrawn position and both clamps Z! and bar 26 raised, a lining L is inserted into the depressed surface 24 which conforms to the shape of the tapered lining. The material T is then placed on top of the lining L and against the edge 25 of guide plate 25which conforms to the outline of the tie material. When the tie material T and lining L are thus in position overlying slot IS, the

bar 20 is lowered to force the fabrics into aperture l2. Clamp bars 21 are then lowered to hold the tie materials T and lining L in position during the sewing operation. It may, however, be desirable at times to reverse this order to first lower the clamp bars 21 and then lower bar 20 into the aperture. is then rotated by means of keys 32 sliding in keyways .33 and forwarded by means of the threads of rod and bushings 3| intermeshing with one another so that it will screw itself through the aperture I2 and through the slanting grooves formed between the teeth of bar making a stitch each time the needle passes through the tie and lining material. Upon reaching the end of lining L the rotating needle is stopped and the loose end of the thread is pulled through eye M. The needle rotation is then reversed so as to cause the needle to retreat and unwind itself from the stitched work. The stitch produced will be an under and over running slip stitch S, somewhat diagonal with respect to the stitch line, as seen in Figure 5.

Due to different type materials used in tie manufacturing, it may sometimes be desirable to thread the needle after it has passed through the t e fabrics so that the thread will be inserted into the fabrics when the needle is being withdrawn. Although this needle has been shown as used to sew neckties, it may also be used to form decorative stitching on a wide variety of other articles such as gloves, handbags, wallets, etc. The stitch resembles very closely stitches which have been made by hand.

It is to be understood that the form of this invention, herewith shown and described, is to be taken as a preferred example of the same, and that various changes in the shape, size and arrangement of parts may be resorted to, without departing from the spirit of this invention, or the scope of the sub-joined claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a spiral needle having an eye near its The threaded spiral needle dle, and mechanism for rotating and. forwarding said needle through said fabrics to sew the fabrics together with a slip stitch while held in position by said means and members.

4. In a sewing machine, a support having an elongated slot therein, means on said support for positioning a pair of superposed fabric materials thereon and over said slot with one material overhanging the other, a toothed rack bar carried by said support and movable into said slot for holding an elongated bight of said materials therein, a spiral needle disposed in said pointed end, an elongated member having a tubular opening with a slot extending along the length thereof and aligned with the axis of said needle, a bar for inserting the tie materials into said slotted tubular opening, said bar having rack teeth of the same pitch as the spiral of the needle for holding the portion of the fabrics to be stitched in the path of said needle and mechanism to impart rotating and forwarding movement to the spiral needle to pass the pointed end of said needle through the spaces between said teeth to sew the tie fabrics together.

2. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a spiral needle having an eye near its pointed end, a table, said table having an aperture formed therein for supporting the spiral needle, a bar associated with said table for pos tion ng necktie material with respect to said needle in said aperture, and mechanism for rotating and forwarding the pointed end of said spiral needle through said necktie material to sew the same with a slip stitch.

3. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a support having a slot for insertion of necktie fabrics, guides for properly locating the fabrics over said slot, means for inserting said fabrics into said slot, spaced opposed members positioned on each side of said slot for holding the tie fabrics in place, a rotary spiral neesupport beneath said slot with the convolutions thereof movable between the teeth of said bar, and mechanism operatively associated with said needle for rotating and advancing same through said bight of the materials.

. '5. In a necktie sewing machine, an elongated member having a material supporting surface and having a slot extending along the length thereof and opening into said supporting surface, a spiral needle having an eye near its pointed end and movably supported by said elon gated member beneath said slot and with its axis aligned therewith, a bar having rack teeth carried by said member with the teeth of the same spacing as the pitch of the spiral needle into said supporting surface, a spiral needle having an eye near its pointed end and movably supported by said elongated member beneath said slot and with its axis alinged therewith, said member having an aperture through which said needle is movable axially, a bar having rack teeth carried by said member with the teeth of the same spacing as the pitch of the spiral needle and operative for inserting the portion of the materials to be stitched together into said slot, and mechanism operatively associated with said needle for imparting rotating and forwarding movement thereto to pass the needle between said rack teeth and through said tie materials to sew same together.

7. A method of making neckties which consists in positioning a lining blank, placing the overlapped longitudinal edges of a necktie blank folded inside out along substantially the longitudinal center line of said lining blank, sewing said blanks together by a single thread with the stitches angularly arranged with respect to the longitudinal center line of said lining blank, the thread extending at an angle to said center line across the exterior face ofthe outer fabric edge and thence through the fabric edges and through the lining, and extending at an angle to said center line across the face of the lining from which it emerges and thence through the lining and fabric edges to the exterior face of the exterior fabric edge to form a series of stitches which are angularly arranged with respect to the longitudinal center line of the lining, and

VALENTINE NAFTALI.

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