US2374033A - Mechanism for making neckties - Google Patents

Description

, 1945. M. M. NEWMAN 2,374,033

MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Aprii 17 Filed July 2, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 MAX M.NEW MAN m T N E V m April l7 M. M. NEWMAN MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed July 2, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 9 H M a Eu; :5 a

INVENTOR MAX M .NEWMAN ATTORNEY April '17, 1945. M. NEWMAN 2,374,033

MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed July 2, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet s INVENTOR l MAX NEWMAN LJ ATTORNEY Api-il 17, 1945. M; NEW A 2,374,033

, MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed July 2, 1940 4- Shets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR MAX M. NEWMAN 3W A ORNEY Patented Apr. 17, 1 945 Max M. Newman, Bronx, N. Y., assignor to Amer-' ican Machine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application July 2, 1940, Serial No. 343,515

3 Claims.

This is a continuation in partof my.application No. 143,708, filed May 20, 1937.

My invention relates to a new and improved machine for making neckties.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide a machine whereby the lining can be sewed to the material of a necktie, and the material of the necktie can then be turned so as to bring the lining within the outer material of the necktie.

Another object of the invention i to provide reliable and simple guide means for feeding the necktie lining and thejoutside material to the stitching mechanism.

Another object of my invention is to provide improved guide and control means which can be used in combination with an ordinary sewing machine or in combination with the machine illustrated inapplication Serial No. 95,967, filed in the United States Patent-Office on August 14,

1936, now issued as United States Patent No. 20

Another object of the invention is to provide guide means which will be automatically varied in order to compensate for the tapered shape of the lining of the necktie.

A further object of this invention i to provide .an improved necktie lining guide device having I guide members which automatically shift relative to the lining in order to compensate for margin variations of the necktie lining, and means for adjusting the guiding members so that linings of difierent widths and since may be guided properly and fed to the necktie sewing mechanism. Another object of the invention is to provide a simplified means for changing the pattern band so that linings of different sizes and shapes may be sewed upon the same machine.

A further object of the invention is to provide a guide adjacent the terminal ends of the necktie pleating and sewing mechanism which engages the advancing end of the unsewed portion of the necktie blank to deflect it away from the pleating members and prevent damage to the tie being sewed.

A further object of this invention is to provide a guard in front of the pleating members which will permit the operator to easily feed the tie fabrics and at the same time prevent her from getting her fingers caught between the pleating members.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fully described, and then specifically set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a machine which embodies the invention.

Fig. 2 is a top plan view of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an elevation partially in section, taken along the 33 line of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, along the line 44 of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, along the line 5--5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the metal blank which is used for making the pattern band.

Fig. 7 is a plan view showing how the lining has been stitched to the tubular body and to the tape of the necktie, before the tubular body has been turned.

Fig. 8 is a sectional View on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a top plan view showing the improved guide means combined with a machine of the type illustrated in said United States Patent No. 2,098,009.

i Fig. 10 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, on the line Ill-I 0 of Fig. 9.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary side elevation showing a the operator safety guard and necktie guide.

Fig. .12 is a partial plan view taken on line l2-I2 of Fig.11.

. Fig. 13 is a fragmentary side elevation showing therear guide located at the terminal end of my machine.

Fig. 14 is a plan view of Fig. 13. Fig. 15 is a detailed view of a modified form 0 lining guide showing the means for adjusting the lining guides.

Fig. 16 is a plan view of a detail of Fig. 15 on enlarged scale.

Fig. 1 shows, a sewing machine M, which can" be of any suitable type, and which is connected to the usual table 24. A plate or supplemental 40 table I is suitably connected to the table 24.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the plate I is provided with an angular .slot 2. The inner leg of said slot 2, which is substantially parallel to thehead of the sewing machine'M, serves as a guide through which the lining strip L is fed. The

lining strip L is fed from underneath the plate I, through the inner leg of the slot 2, and then over the plate I, to the sewin machine. Said strip is shown in broken lines in Figs. 1 and 2.

As shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the sewing machine is provided with a driving shaft 3 having a conventional fly wheel W, beyond which the shaft has a relatively small driving pulley 5 constructed and arranged to drive afiexible belt 1 running to a relatively large driven pulley 6 on a second or couhtershaft 4, journaled in standards 8 and 8a mounted on the table 24. Since the pulley 6 is several times the diameter of ulley 5, the shaft 3 is turned a number of times to one revolution of the shaft 4.

The machine shown in Figs. 1 and 2 is provided with two guide rods 9 and I ll having free guide ends 12 and II. The plate I is located above these rods 9 and I8 and their free guide ends II and I2. These rods 9 and I pass slidably through grooves Ma and 13b of a guide block I3 which is connected to the underside of the plate I, by means of a screw or other fastening device I4. The guide rods 9 and 10 are respectively provided with control ends 15 and I6, which contact with the pattern band 2|.

As shown in Fig. 6,,this pattern band 2| is shaped so as to correspond to the shape of the lining. i 6 shows the cutout planar metal blank which is used for making said band 2|. This pattern band 2! is located around the pattern pulley 20. While this Fig. 6 shows one form of blank conforming to one shape of lining, it is evident that other shapes may be devised.

Screws 23 which pass through the holes 22 of the pattern band 2|, connect said pattern band 2| to the pulley or wheel 20.

Compared to a pattern formed directly upon a pulley or wheel, a pattern band of such simplified construction as disclosed in the present invention has the advantage of being easily and quickly removed and replaced with another band of different width and shape. The control ends l and'lfi of the rods 9 and in, contact with the side edges of the pattern band 2|, which is made of metal or any other suitable sufficiently rigid material which can be bent around the guide wheel 20; As indicated by the showing in Fig. 7, the sewing machine shaft must be turned much more frequently than the shaft 4, on which the pattern wheel is mounted, since each of the stitches which are illustrated in Fig. 7 corresponds to a complete rotation of the sewing machine shaft 3. Thus, the pattern wheel turns through a suitable fraction of a revolution for each complete revolution of the sewing machine shaft 3, and for each cycle of the pattern, the sewing machine forms the appropriate number of stitches for a complete tie. A tension spring I1 is connected to the rods 9 and ID in order to maintain their control ends l5 and IS in contact with the edges of the pattern band 2|.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 3, a strip of tape S and the lining strip L are fed through the inner leg of the slot 2, over the plate I, and' to the sewing machine. The outer material T of the necktie, which is usually silk,is bent or folded so as to have closely adjacent edges, as illustrated in Fig. 7, and this folded outer material is also fed to the sewing machine, over'plate l, as shownin Fig. 3. The hands of the operator guide the materials L,. S and T to the needle or needles of the sewing machine. The distance between the guide ends H and I2 is automatically varied by the pattern band 2! according to the width of the lining, so that the lining is always guided in proper alignment with the needle of the sewing machine, in order'to connect the parts of the necktie in the manner shown in Fig. '7.

with the central line of the lining L. Therefore, when stitches So are formed by the sewing machine, these stitches are located along the superposed central lines of the lining L and of the tape S and these stitches So are as close as possible to the edges of the outer material T.

After this stitching operation has been completed, the outer material T is turned, so that the lining L and the tape S are now located at the inside of the outer material, thus completing the necktie. Theedges of the lining then substantially abut the edges of the turned outer material. That is, the outer material is cut so that it corresponds substantially to the shape of the lining strip. Of course the lining strip is shorter than the outer material.

In the embodiment shown in Figs. 9 and 10, I have shown a, plate 24a, which is suitably connected to a support 24b. In this embodiment the lining strip L with the tape S above the same is led over the front edge 24a of the member 240, and between said front edge 24c and a guide plate 25 which is adjustably connected by means of a screw 25a to said member 24a. The member 24a has a substantially fiat or planar top surface which is provided with curved slots 26 and 21.

Adjustable clips 28 and 29 are provided in order to serve as guides for the movement of the tapered lining strip, and these clips 28 and 29 are shifted in their respective slots 26 and 21 in order to allow for the tapered shape of the lining strip L. I

It will be noted that the taper of the lining strip L need not be uniform and that a part of this stri L can have parallel edges in which case the guide means are correspondingly varied.

The clips 28 and 29 are connected by means of screws 30 and 3| to the free ends of guide rods 34 and 35, which are pivotally connected to the member 240. by means of pivot screws 32 and 33. The adjacent ends of the rods 34 and 35 are loeated underneath the member 24a and the screws 30'and 3| extend through the curved slots 26 and The clips 28 and 29 are provided with forked ends in which the shanks of the screws 30 and 3| are located. Said guide rods or arms 34 and 35 are provided with pins which cooperate with the cam slots 38 and 39 of the rolls 36 and 31. Said rolls 36 and 31 are respectively mounted upon the shafts 42a and 42 of the pulleys 43a and 43, which serve to uide the endless flexible crimping- bands 44a and 44. Said flexible crimping bands 44 and 44a respectively have transverse teeth 4| and 40 of the type shown in said United States Patent No. 2,098,009.

The outer material T is fed to the crimping bands 44 and 44a over the tape S, as in the preceding embodiment.

In the United States Patent No. 2,098,009 there is shown the use of a long needle which serves to form a stitch in the layers of material so that the guide means shown in Figs. 9 and 10 fulfill substantially the same function as the guide shown in the preceding embodiments, namely. to guide the layers of material to a 'suitable stitching mechanism.

The crimping bands 40 and 4| serve to form crimps in the layers of material, and a long needle is then passed through the crim-ped portions of the layers of material which form the necktie.

The spaced guide means shown in both embodiments are shifted automatically by the mechanism of the sewing device, inaccordance with erations.

v another.

the varying width of the lining strip. Said spaced 7 guide means are always equally laterally spaced from the predetermined line of stitching movement of the needle, so that the central point between said spaced means is'fixedrelative to the line in which the stitch is formed. The band 2|- and the cam slots 38 and 39 may be designated as pattern means.

. In the embodiment shown in Figs. 11 and 12, I

have shown a stationary safety guard 45 attached by suitable means, such as a screw 46, to wall 41. This guard member extends out in front of the pleating members 40 and 4|. guards an operator against possible injury due to accidental insertion of her fingers between the pleating members when guiding necktie materials thereto, and does not interfere with her viewof the pleating members during sewing op- In Figs. 11 and 12 an adjustable guide 68 for the necktie blank is also shown. -This guide, 48

which is mounted adjustably upon table memher No by means of a clamp screw 49, has a slot 50 which permits the guide 48 to be secured in any desirable adjusted position.

It has been found in the operation of this machine, that occasionally the advancing or unsewed end of the necktie material being moved by the pleating members towards the rear of the machine during the sewing operation has a ten-' dency to become entangled with the upper pleating members because of the movement of the free material between the pleating elements.

This condition of the'tie materials is very undesirable because it usually causes damage to the tie as the pleating members are-reversed when the sewed tie material is withdrawn from betweenmaterials.

This device safeas control ends l5 and I6 of the rods 9 and 10 may be bent or otherwise shaped, as shown by the modification in Figs. and 16', and a slot 60 has been formedin each of these ends. Also adjustably mounted on the ends of arms 15 and It are camfollowers 51 which rotate on collared bolts 58 inserted through slots 60 and secured by means of nuts 59 to the arms i5, l6. Ca-m followers 51, which-track the pattern band, are held thereagainst by suitable means, such as spring H, as in the structure shown in Fig. 2. Rotation of the pattern band 2| and the coaction of followers 51 therewith effect the desired guiding movement of members I I andlZ (Fig. 2).

Slot 60 (Fig. 16) is of sufficient length to permit thedlstance between members, H and I2 (Fig. 2) to be adjusted without changing the pattern band 2| by loosening nuts 59 andmoving the followers 51 on their supporting arms I 5 and l6. By means of this adjusting device it is also possible to eas ilyalign the necktie lining in the rpath of the ,needle 63 by moving either or both followers 51. In the event that a different shaped or size lining is to be sewed, it is necessary to change the pattern'band and adjust the cam followers in the manner described above to position them properly for cooperation with the selected band.

It is toibe understood that the form of my invention, herewith shown and described, is to be taken as a preferred example'of the same, and that various changes in-the shape, size and arrangement of parts may be resorted to, without departing from the spirit of my invention, or the scope of the subjoined claims.

What is claimed is:

1. ma machine for assembling and sewing together necktie parts, consisting of an elongated outer fabric piece varying in width along its length and folded lengthwise with its-longitudinal edges substantially adjacent to form a double edge, and an elongated lining piece symmetrically tapered along its length at either side of its longitudinal center line from a wide portion adi v jacent one end to a narrow portion, the combination with feeding and stitching mechanism for said necktie parts having a fixed stitching'position, a work supporting table in front of said The lower member 5| of the curved guide 52 is j preferably, located close to the pleating members 40 so that it will form a guiding surface with the unstitched end of a necktie 54 and deflect it away from pleating members 40, thus accumulating it in said guide until that time when the movement of the pleating members is reversed and the tie is withdrawn from the machine.

By means of-this guide, the unstitched end 54 of the tie material is not caught in the. open spaces 53 between members 40 and canbe easily removed from the pleating members. When the unstitched portion of the necktie 54 gets caught in open spaces 53. the tie is ripped and torn and cannot be withdrawn easily from the machine. The rear guide is composed of a plate 5| which is stitching position accessible toan operator and arranged to support the Fabric on top of the table for feeding thereover by said operator to the stitching position with the stitch line parallel to and apredetermined distance from said double edge, and lining guiding means associated with said table having opposed operating surfaces arrangedlat an angle to a line in the plane of the lining, said line being perpendicular to said stitch line, and said surfaces acting on opposite marginal portions of the lining to center the same, said means being constructed and arranged to engage and act on the marginal portions of "the'lining along parts thereof of varying width-tocenter the lining despite variations in the width thereof to permit passage of a lining without fold secured to another plate 52' which in turn is held in position by means of a bolt or other suitable means 55.

Figs. 15 and 16 show the manner in which the automatic varying lining guide operates and also the manner in which the spacing between members II and I2 (Fig.2) can be adjusted whenever it is desired to change from one type of lining to ing over the edges of the same while maintained in engagement therewith, said guiding means ineluding a pair of pivoted arms mounted below said table, and members secured to said arms and having portions extending above the level of said table in position to engage the opposite marginal portions of the lining, said operating surfaces being carried by said. portions extending above the table, and a device for moving said arms toward each other and thereby-maintaining said members in engagement with the opposite marginal portions of said lining ash; is advanced to said stitching position.

overlying the center of the lining, apair of levers pivoted under said table with their free ends on opposite sides of the path of the center of said lining as it is fed to said stitching position, slots in'said table overlying said ends, guide elements on said lever ends extending through said slots arranged to engage respectively opposite edges of said lining to guide the same, means moving said levers together to cause said elements to engage and guide edges of said tapered lining despite variations in the width thereof, and means spaced above said table and overlying said lining at a distance ,above the table suflicient to admit the lining while holding said lining flat adjacent the positions at which the lining is engaged by said guide elements.

3. In a machine for assembling and sewing together-necktie parts consisting of an elongated outer fabric piece varying in width along its length and folded lengthwise with the longitudinal edges substantially adjacent to form a 30 to said stitching position.

double edge, and an elongated lining piece symmetrically tapered along its length at either side a of its longitudinal center line from a wide portion adjacent one end to a narrow prtion,-the com- 5 bination with feeding and stitching mechanism for said necktie parts having a fixed stitching position, a work supporting table in front of said stitching position accessible to an operator and arranged to support the fabric on top of the table forfeeding thereover by said operator to the stitching position with the stitch line parallel to and a predetermined distance from said double edge, said table having a slot therein including a portion transverse to the direction of feed of 5 the lining and having a portion extending to the edge of the table into which latter portion the lining may be inserted from said edge and through which transverse portion the lining may pass from below the table into association with said fabric, movableguiding elements associated with said table and having opposed operating surfaces acting on opposite marginal portions of the 'lining a pair of relatively movable supports carrying said elements, and control means having 'movable control surfaces with an effective oontour corresponding to the contour of the edges of said lining for moving said supports toward and away from each other to cause said elements to engage and center the tapered lining as it is fed MAX'M NEWMAN.

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