US207880A - Improvement in measuring-jackets - Google Patents

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1l H. L'I'NGEN. Measuring-Jacket.

No. 207,880. A

Ptened sept. 1 0, 1878, WW/ l WITNESSES I INVENTOR:

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AH. LINGEN; Measuring-Jacket.

No. 207,880. Patented sept. 10,1878.

WITNESSES v INVENTOR; @/lml //MQ /fywd BY ATTORNEYS.

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PATENT OFFICE.

HERMANN IIINGEN, OF WHEELING, IVEST VIRGINIA.

IMPROVEMENT IN MEASURlNG-JACKETS.

Speciication forming part of Letters Patent No. 207,880, dated September 10, 1878; application filed June 2,2, 187e.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, HERMANN LINGEN, of IVheelin g, in the county of Ohio and State of Vcst Virginia, have invented a new and Improved Measuring-Jacket, of which the follow- 4 ing is a specification:

In cutting out dress and frock coats by the system generally in use it is usual to take the' breast and waist measure ot' the person to be fitted, and from those measurements and such others as the cutter may be able to make the body of the coat is cut out. As these measurements are, to a great extent, indefinite, it is necessary to try on the garment withthe seams basted together and nt it to the person by letting out or altering the seams. This process causcs considerable trouble, especially in ittin g deformed persons, and it is not entirely reliable.

A measuring-jacket' has therefore been devised which is similar in form to the body of a frock coat, and having its seams united by elastic cords, to permit them to open more or less to allow the jacket to conform itself to the shape of the body of the person being measured.

My invention is an improvement in this class of measuring-jackets5 and it consists, first, in attaching hooks to the elastic seam-lacing cords, which hooks may be adj usted from one eyelet to another, for the purpose of adjusting the tension of the cords as required by the shape of the person; second, in attaching facings or naps to the jacket along the seams, on which the variations from the normal or usual shape may be marked with chalk, such variations being indicated by the greater or less divergence or width of the seams; third, in providing the jacket with pads, constructed and arranged as hereinafter described.

In the drawing, Figure l is an elevation of the back part of my measuring-jacket. Fig. 2 is a front view, and Fig. 3 is a view of the same with the front open.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

I prefer to make the jacket from corduroy or similar material, which will cling-to the body but will not stretch.

a a are the front and side portions of the body, and bis the back portion, having side seamsc c and shoulder-seams d d, similar to a frock coat.

Instead of being sewed, as usual, the seams 0 c and d d are connected by elastic cords e and f, which pass through the eyelet-holes g g and h h along the edges of the seams c c and cl cl on both sides.

Upon the front pieces, a a, adjacent to the seams c c and d d, there is a facing, t t', of black'cloth, preferably about two inches wide, upon the outside of the jacket, and there is also attached to the front pieces, a a, at the seams on the under side loose naps 7c k, of black cloth, (see Fig. 3,) which lap under the seams.

I also provide, at the seams c c and d d, hooks l Z, connected tothe back portion, b, of the jacket by elastic cords passing through the eyelet-holes g g; and on the front portion, a a, there is a second row, m, of eyeletholes adjacent to each seam, but farther from the seam than the eyelets h. Upon the front portions, a, of the jacket, at the bottom edge7 on the part which covers the abdomen, I provide the vertical cuts n a, which are closed by the elastic cords o o passing through eyelet-holes p p on each side, and provided with hooks q on the front part, o. Upon the under side ot' the seams a a there is a piece, of elastic cloth, r, (see Fig. 3,) which is attached to both sides oi' the seam n. I prefer to use the elastic cloth 1' at this point, as the strain is much greater on this seam a n than at any other when the jacket is stretched by the person.

At the back of the jacket, upon the portion b, I provide a horizontal cut, extending from one arm-hole, s, to the other, and this cutis held together by an elastic cord, t, passing from side to side across the cut through the eyelet-holes u u, and there are hooks v u at tached to the lower eyelet-holcs, a, by an elasA tic cord. There is also a facing, c', and nap el at the edges of this cut, similar to the seams c and d. At the front of thev shoulders there is a horizontal cut, w, from the arm-holes s, connected by a non-elastic cord, y. s

z z are pads, which are usually used with coats to nll out the hollow of the body at the front of the armpits. I have shown these eX tending over the top of the shoulder, and connected to the front and side of the garment by non-elastic cords a through cyelet-holes, and on the back and top of the shoulder by elastic cords b. The movement of the elastic seams of the garment, when on the person, renders the elastic connect-ions b of the pads z necessary, so that the pads may shift. The cords a and b pass through eyelet-holes in the body of the garment and through the pad.

The measuringjacket is put upon the person, and the elastic seams and cuts permit it to assume the shape of the body. If the front or back is too short at the shoulders, the seams d cl will open, and the flaps k 7c may be marked to show the amount of opening, or a note made of it; but if these portions are too long, the edge of the back portion at d may be hooked over the row of eyelet-hol es m on the front part, a, and the elastic connection of the hooks l permits the seam to adjust itself to the person, and the amount to be cut oi of the front a may then be marked upon the facing i.

The operation at each ofthe seams and cuts is the same as just described for the shoulderseam. The cu ts n n permit the jacket to open for the size of the stomach, and it may be marked upon the elastic cloth r. The cord y may be tied to open or close the cut w for the size of the arm-hole, and the horizontal cut across the back from shoulder to shoulder permits the back portion, b, to adjust itself for an unusually tall or long-Waisted man, and it also may be hooked shorter by the hooks u for a person shorter than the average.

1t will be evident that, these changes caused by the shape and size of the person being carefully marked and noted, the original pattern of the jacket may be laid upon the cloth, and the garment cut according to the variations from the pattern; and a deformed person may be as readily tted as a man of average build.

I do not limit myself to the shape of the measuringgarment shown, nor to the position of the seams and cuts, nor the manner of connecting the seams to render them elastic, as these particulars may be Varied Without dcparting from my invention.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. The combination of the elastic cords and hooks attached thereto with the seamed measuring-jacket, having eyelets located adjacent to the seams, as shown and described.

2. The facings and aps attached to the jacket at the elastic seams, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

3. The pads z, connected to the measuring garment, substantially as and forthe purposes -set forth.

HERMANN LINGEN.

Vitnesses:

LoUrs D. BLooMFIELD, JOHN M. BRos'ln

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