US2048934A - Hair waving apparatus - Google Patents

Description

Jul 28, 1936. R K E E 2,048,934

HAIR WAVING APPARATUS Filed March 14, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 4 33 6/ 9 66 63 5/ 9f 68 7 WW7 k INVENTOR. 5040/7 M. Fez/z Maw/M A TTORNE YS.

July 28, 1936.

R. M. KEELE HAIR WAVING APPARATUS 5 Shets-Shet 2 Filed March 14, 1932 ATTORNEYS.

-FIE 15 July 28,1936. R, KEELE 2,048,934

AIR WAVING APPARATUS Filed March 14, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 FI- 1E v INVENTOR. @0405 M fie e/e ZZZ A TTORNE YS.

Patented July 28, 1936 gran HAIR WAVING APPARATUS Application March 14,

3 Claims.

This invention relates generally to apparatus for the waving of human hair, such as are adapted for use in professional beauty parlors.

At the present time practically all hair waving methods and apparatuses in common usage fall into two general types, termed spiral and croquignole. In spiral waving a pencil-like curling rod or mandrel is employed, and a strand of hair is wound about this rod in the form of a helicoid, beginning with the base of the strand and winding towards the tip. After the hair strand has been wound upon the rod, the wound hair is covered with a suitable absorbent pad, containing a vaporizable solution, and a tubular electrical heater is slipped over the assembly. The subsequent heating or cooking period renders the wave permanent. Spiral waving is subject to the following disadvantages:It requires a highly skilled operator to secure uniformly good results, considerable time is required to wind the strand upon the curling rod preparatory to the heating operation, comparatively long heating periods are required at relatively high temperatures, and the resulting wave tends to be kinky and lacks a life-like appearance. In croquignole waving a two-part clamp is engaged with a flat hair strand, adjacent the scalp. The extending flat strand of hair is then wound upon a curler or mandrel, beginning with the tip of the strand and winding towards the protector. During this winding the convolutions are applied one on top of the other. After all of the strand has been wound upon the curler, the curler is mounted upon the protector, and then by further turning the curler, the wound hair is placed under tension. Ratcheting or clutching means is usually provided to prevent unwinding movement of the curler.

After the strand has been wound and tensioned, a pad containing a suitable vaporizable solution is placed over the curler and an electrical heater clipped over the assembly. While croquignole waving tends to produce a more natural wave, it is also subject to many inherent disadvantages. For example, it is difficult to secure uniform tension throughout the length of the strand, even though considerable torque is applied to the curler after being mounted upon the protector. As in spiral apparatus, a relatively long heating or cooking period is required at relatively high temperatures, due to the fact that the heat does not readily penetrate the several superposed convolutions of hair. Likewise the final tightening operation preparatory to heating the wound strand actually stretches the hair a con- 1932, Serial No. 598,542 (01. 132-36) siderable amount, and frequently applies a directv pull upon the scalp if certain individual hairs may not be securely gripped by the protector.

It is an object of the present invention to devise a hair waving apparatus which will be of 5 a distinctly new and different type, and will obviate the disadvantages inherent in prior spiral and croquignole equipment.

It is a further more specific object of the invention to devise an improved hair waving appal0 ratus which will enable waving a head of hair in a minimum of time, without discomfort to the subject whose hair is being waved, and with uniformly good results.

Further objects of the invention, relating for 15 example to simplicity of construction, and ease of manufacture and assembly, will appear from the following description in which the preferred embodiments of the invention are set forth in detail in conjunction with the accompanying 20 drawings. It is to be noted that the appended claims are to be accorded a range of equivalents consistent with the state of the prior art.

Referring to the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view, illustrating 25 apparatus incorporating the present invention, to which a strand of hair to be waved has been applied.

Fig. 2 is a View of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 1, but looking towards the other side of the 3o apparatus.

. Fig. 3 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line l-d of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a plan View looking down upon the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 7 is a transverse cross sectional view taken 40 along the line 'l-'I of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a detail illustrating the construction of a suitable clamp for engaging the hair strand, such as is incorporated with my apparatus.

Fig. 9 is a side elevational view of a suitable tool to facilitate use of my apparatus.

Fig. 10. is a side elevational view in transverse cross section, illustrating a suitable heater for use with my apparatus. 50

Fig. 11 is an assembled view in side elevation, illustrating the heater of Fig. 10 applied to the apparatus of Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 12 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line l2-l2 of Fig. 11.

Fig. 13 is a plan view of the heater illustrated in Fig. 10.

Fig. 14 is a plan detail illustrating the preferred construction of the absorbent pads utilized with my apparatus.

Fig. 15 is a side elevational detail, illustrating the means utilized for securing the absorbent pads to certain parts of the electrical heater.

Figs. 16, 1'7 and 18 illustrate diagrammatically the manner in which a hair strand is disposed upon my apparatus.

Referring first to Figs. 1 to 8 inclusive, one suitable embodiment of the apparatus consists of a frame designated generally at It. Carried by this frame are a plurality of individual mandrellike forms which have been designated H to H inclusive and 2! to 27 inclusive. As will be presently explained the number of individual forms utilized may vary, depending largely upon the length of the hair strand to be waved. While all of the forms may be identical in construction, they have been designated separately to facilitate explanation of manipulation of the device which will presently follow.

For the sake of lightness and cheapness of manufacture, each mandrel-like form is preferably hollow and in the form of a metal tube, having the major portion of its length substantially circular in cross sectional contour. A suitable detailed construction is illustrated in Figs. 3

to 5 inclusive, in which the mandrels El and 26 appear. One end portion of each mandrel is preferably 'fi'are'd or belled as indicated at 3 I, the contour of this flared portion being preferably rectangular as shown in Fig. 1. Fixed within the other end portion of each mandrel there is a metal plug 32, for the purpose of assisting in the connection between the mandrels and the frame Iii of the apparatus, as will presently appear. The mandrels, together with the plugs 32, are preferably made "of some metal which has a fair degree of strength and rigidity, together with lightness. For example, a suitable material is an aluminum base alloy containing copper.

Th'e'frame it includes an elongated side mem-- ber 33, which can be conveniently made of sheet metal bent channel shaped to form a pair of flanged portions 34. A handle 36, made of suitable material such as a phenolic condensate product, is mounted upon one end of side frame member 33. Mounted upon the other end of side frame member 33, there is a suitable clamping device 37 adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacent the scalp.

With respect to the details illustrated for the clamping device, a pair of plates 38 are mounted upon the end of side frame member 33. A pair 'of relatively rigid bars 39 are fixed to plates 38, and extend substantially at right angles to side frame member 33. Another pair of bars '4! are pivotally connected to plates 38 as by pivot pin 42. A link 43 is connected to the free end of bars 39 by pivot pin 44. The free ends of bars 4! are formed hook shaped as indicated at 46, and are adapted to be engaged by a cam 31, formed upon a cam lever 18. Cam lever 48 is connected to link 43 by pivot pin 39. Tubular members 5! and 52, of resilient material, as for example soft vulcanized rubber, are positioned upon bars 39 and 4|. When members 5i and 52 are forced together upon ahair strand, cam portion ill can be engaged with hook portions lfi, and by rotating lever 48 to a position illustrated in Fig. 6, members 5i and 52 can be'fi'rmly clampedtogether and locked in such position. Note that the general plane of clamping device 31, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, is at an angle of less than with respect to the plane of frame [0.

The mounting between the mandrel-like forms and the frame l 0, is preferably such that a certain amount of self aligning movement of each form is permitted, and also such as topermit the individual forms to slide longitudinally with respect to the frame. The detailed construction illustrated in Figs. 3 to 5 inclusive, consists in forming the flanges 34 of side member 33 with beaded or turned edge portions 54. The adjacent ends of the mandrel-like forms including the plugs 32, are provided with key hole shaped slots 56, to accommodate the beaded edge portions 54 and flanges 35. This interlocked connection with the frame serves to retain the axes of the mandrel-like forms generally parallel, but suflicient tolerance is afforded to permit sliding movement upon side frame member 33. slot is relieved as indicated at 55 (Fig. 5), limited self aligning movement is permitted in a direction lateral to the axis of each form, and substantially parallel to the planes of the axes of form groups I l to I? inclusive and 2| to 27 inclusive.

It will be noted from Fig. 1 that the mandrellike forms I l and 2| are adapted to engage the resilient members 5! and 52 of the clamping device 31. Thus when all of the mandrel-like forms are urged toward clamping device 37, the forms Q N to I? inclusive take the position in which their axes are offset with respect to the axes of forms 2! to 27 inclusive. The amount of this offset, when the sides of each row or group of forms are in contact, is equal to substantially one-half the distance between the axes of adjacent forms. In other words as the apparatus is viewed in Fig. '7, the line of contact between two adjacent upper mandrel-like forms is directly above the axis of a lower form.

In order to yieldably urge all of the mandrellike forms together, and towards clamping device 31, I provide a presser device 58. This device can conveniently be formed of a sheet metal member 59, bent to form side finger hold portions 6| and 62, and portions 63 and 64 adapted to abut the sides of the adjacent mandrel-like forms H and 27. Member 59 is mounted upon a rod 65, which in turn is slidably disposed within a bore 61 formed in handle 36. A compression spring 68 '1 serves to yieldably urge presser member 58 towards the clamping device 31, so that all of the mandrel-like forms are normally urged together Likewise since each in a direction laterally with respect to their axes.

One side of member frame member 33, and the other side can be guided by a strip 69, which slidably engages the channel shaped member H.

A suitable device for heating the hair strand retained by the mandrel-like forms of my apparatus is illustrated in Figs. 10 tol5 inclusive. This device or heater consists of a pair of relatively flat opposed members 13 and 74, which 59 is shown guided upon may be in the form of metal plates. Plates "I3 and 74 are mounted on elongated rigid casings l6 and TI, whichserve to enclose electrical heating elements. The ends of casings 76 and 'l'l are mounted upon handles 18, which have inwardly projecting tabs 19 connected together by pivot pins 8!. A suitable spring 82, associated with handle 78, serves to urge members 13 and M towards each other. The conductors of a flexible electrical cord 83, serve to make electrical 'connection with'the heating elements contained in casings l6 and 17. "Bypressing "m'anually'upon the projecting portions of handles 18, it is evident that members 13 and 14 can be forced apart.

Plates 13 and 14 are of ample width and length to encompass the exposed sides of the mandrellike forms. When in position to heat a hair strand, the heater is placed over the apparatus previously described, in the manner shown in Fig. 11. When current is then applied to the heating element, heat is transferred from plates 13 and 14, to the hair strand and likewise to the mandrel-like forms.

When sufiicient heat is applied to the strand to render the wave permanent, it is desirable to have some form of pad positioned upon the inner sides of plates 13 and M, to retain various vaporizable solutions such as are commonly used in permanent waving. Thus, in Figs. 11 and 12 I have shown suitable pads 86 of absorbent material such as cotton flannel, interposed between plates 13 and i l and the sides of the mandrellike forms. These pads are preferably provided with a backing 81 of parchment paper or like material, the edges of which can be sewed to the flannel portion of the pad as indicated at 96. To retain these pads upon the heater, while the heater is being applied, I have shown each of plates 13 and 14 provided with projecting teeth 88 upon which the parchment backing of the pad can be engaged. I also preferably provide each of the pads with one or more apertures 89, as shown in Fig. 14. When the pads are in position upon the heater, these apertures accommodate bosses 9|, formed of non-metallic material such as phenolic condensate product, and which project from the inner faces of plates 13 and M. Bosses 9| not only aid in retaining the pads in proper position, but also facilitate escapement of steam and vapors during the heating operation.

It is generally most convenient to insert and remove the heater in a longitudinal direction with respect to the frame ID of the waving apparatus. In this connection it is generally desirable to support the main part of the waving apparatus, previously described, by a cord 92 (Fig. 11) having its lower end connected to handle 39 and having its upper end connected to a suitable reel or other counterbalancing device. The heater can be provided with a member 93 apertured to receive cord 92, so that in applying the heater it is slid downwardly and over frame l8, and to effect removal it is slid upwardly upon cord 92.

In Fig. 9 I have illustrated a suitable tool 95 to facilitate arranging a hair strand upon the mandrel-like form. This tool consists of a relatively flat blade 96, formed of suitable material such as metal, and secured to a handle 91. One edge of blade 96 is provided with projecting spaced tabs 98, to form a hair receiving slot 99.

In manipulating my apparatus, the operator first segregates a fiat hair strand from the head of hair, such as indicated by numeral 9 in Figs. 1 and 7. This strand is then engaged at a point adjacent the scalp by the clamping device 31. The projecting strand of hair is then combed out flat, and is permitted to extend along the outer side of forms H to H inclusive. The operator now steadies frame l9, and then forces the blade 96 of tool 95 downwardly between forms II and 12. During this operation tabs 98 are of course advanced foremost and since these tabs are at opposite edges of the strand of hair, the strand is received in slot 99. As the blade of the tool is thus advanced forms H and I2 move apart a certain amount, such movement being accommodated by movement of the presser device 58 against spring 66.

forms 2! and 22.

The blade of the tool is twisted in such a manner that it passes between form 2! and member 5! of the clamping device 31. As the blade of the tool is passed between the forms in the manner just described, it is evident that the strand of hair is doubled and carried first between forms I I and I2, and then between form 2| and member 5!. After all of the blade of the tool has cleared form 2! and member 5|, continued movement in the same direction serves to carry through all of the remainder of. the strand: The operator then again engages the strand with the blade 96, and then forces the blade between forms 2! and 22 and between forms H and i2. Continued movement of the blade in this direction then carries through all of the hair strand to the side of the apparatus upon which forms H to H are positioned. The fiat strand of hair has now been looped about the periphery of form H, and has also been looped, but in a reverse direction, about form 2!. The next operation is to carry the remaining portion of the hair strand between forms l2 and I3, and This serves to form another loop about the periphery of form 12, and this loop is then in a reverse direction with respect to the loop on form 2!. Successive operations of the same character as described above serve to place the entire hair strand upon the forms, preparatory to the heating or cooking operation.

The operation just described can be better understood by reference to Figs. 16 to 13 inclusive, in which arrow 1 represents the blade of tool95. The dotted lines of these views show the progression of the strand as it is being placed between and upon the forms.

In connection with the above described manner of applying a hair strand to the mandrel-like forms it should be noted that during these opera tions the hair strand is placed under tension as it is looped. This is by virtue of the fact that the forms are always being urged together by means of the presser device 58, which causes the forms to be pressed against the sides of blade 96 as this blade is being passed through the apparatus. Likewise this tension is retained, as the side portions of adjacent loops are pressed together between the adjacent side portions of the forms.

To heat the hair strand after it has been arranged upon the forms, pads 86 are applied to the heater and saturated with a suitable vaporizable solution, and then the heater is applied over the forms in the manner illustrated in Fig. 11. Heat is applied directly to the portions of the strand which are in contact with the pads and also to the remainder of the strand by virtue of transfer of heat to the metal forms. When the heating operation has been completed, and the heater removed, the operator retracts the presser member 58, the clamping device 31 is released, and the tip of the strand then pulled towards the ends of the forms which are unsupported. Since retraction ofthe presser device 58 relieves the force tending to urge the forms together, the strand readily frees itself from the forms.

In the manufacture and use of commercial machines incorporating my apparatus, I utilize a plurality a waving units, so that an entire head of hair can be waved in a single operation. The

number of mandrel-like forms incorporated in each unit depends upon the length of hair to be waved. In general apparatus designed for taking a relatively long strand of hair, can be operated successfully on shorter strands, although with apparatus which is to be employed permanently for short strands, alarge number of forms involve needless expense and unnecessary parts.

In addition to the novel characteristics of my apparatus previously described, it may be pointed out that the steps necessary for applying a strand to the apparatus can be readily mastered by an operator, and can be carried out in a minimum of time. No stretching or severe tensioning of the hair strand is involved and thus the apparatus can be employed without deleterious effect to the hair, and with a maximum of comfort to the subject. No great amount of tensioning is required for the reason that the tension employed is uniformly distributed throughout the strand and to the separate hairs. A relatively short heating period is required to make the wave permanent and relatively high temperatures need not be employed. This is for the reason that the heat need penetrate only a single thin layer of hair and because the major portion of the periphery of each form is in contact with the hair. This last. mentioned characteristic likewise avoids deleterious effect upon the hair and the subject does not experience undue heating efiects. The wave produced from my apparatus is natural and like-like in appearance. The ultimate wave produced is of course not of the shape in which the strand is arranged upon the apparatus, but is of marcel character. It may be noted in this connection that upon removing the strand from the apparatus, it is turned through an angle of 90 to lie fiat upon the head.

I claim:

1. In hair waving apparatus, means for retaining a hair strand in the form of, aplu'rality-of connected loops with adjacent successive loops reversely flexed, said meanscomprising a plurality-of elongated mandrel-like forms, a pair of members adapted to engage opposite sides of said means and adapted to be heated, pads of absorbent material adapted to be inserted between said members and said means, said pads being apertured, and bosses formed on the inner faces of said members and adapted to be received in the apertures of said pads. I

2. In a hair waving apparatus, a frame, two rows of mandrel-like forms slidably secured to said frame, the axes of the forms in-eaohv row being generally parallel to the axes of the other formsin the row, and spring means for urging said forms of each row together in a direction laterally with respect to their axes, whereby said forms can be forced apart against said spring means in the winding of a hair strand.

3. In ahair waving apparatus, a frame, said irameincluding a substantially linear side member, a plurality of mandrel-like forms having their axes arranged generally parallel, meansfor mounting one end portion of each of said;forms upon said frame for sliding movement longitudinal of the frame and for affording limiting self aligning movement between each form and the frame, and spring means mounted adjacent one end of the frame and serving to urge all of said forms together in a direction laterally with respect to their axes.

RALPH M. KEELE.

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