US20210077365A1 - Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US20210077365A1 US20210077365A1 US16/620,284 US201816620284A US2021077365A1 US 20210077365 A1 US20210077365 A1 US 20210077365A1 US 201816620284 A US201816620284 A US 201816620284A US 2021077365 A1 US2021077365 A1 US 2021077365A1
- Authority
- US
- United States
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic
- water
- mass
- oil emulsion
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 70
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims description 37
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- -1 fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 84
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 41
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 claims description 41
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 36
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 31
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 31
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 31
- 229920001353 Dextrin Polymers 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 22
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000002734 clay mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
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- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N octocrylene Chemical group C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=C(C#N)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)C1=CC=CC=C1 FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 229960000601 octocrylene Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229960001630 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(N(CC)CC)C=C1O FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxybenzoic acid (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl) ester Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)CC(C)CC1OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960004881 homosalate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
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- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ZSNLEVJATWJBLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-tert-butyl-2-methoxy-1,3-diphenylpropane-1,3-dione Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)C(C(C)(C)C)(OC)C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 ZSNLEVJATWJBLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XVAMCHGMPYWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-N bemotrizinol Chemical compound OC1=CC(OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1C1=NC(C=2C=CC(OC)=CC=2)=NC(C=2C(=CC(OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=2)O)=N1 XVAMCHGMPYWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FQUNFJULCYSSOP-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisoctrizole Chemical compound N1=C2C=CC=CC2=NN1C1=CC(C(C)(C)CC(C)(C)C)=CC(CC=2C(=C(C=C(C=2)C(C)(C)CC(C)(C)C)N2N=C3C=CC=CC3=N2)O)=C1O FQUNFJULCYSSOP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N ensulizole Chemical compound N1C2=CC(S(=O)(=O)O)=CC=C2N=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229940068171 ethyl hexyl salicylate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 29
- 230000006750 UV protection Effects 0.000 abstract description 24
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 abstract description 21
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 20
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 20
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 19
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 18
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 16
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 16
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 16
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 13
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 13
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 238000002835 absorbance Methods 0.000 description 12
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 12
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 12
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 230000001186 cumulative effect Effects 0.000 description 10
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 235000002639 sodium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 229920001400 block copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 229940031569 diisopropyl sebacate Drugs 0.000 description 9
- XFKBBSZEQRFVSL-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropan-2-yl decanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XFKBBSZEQRFVSL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 9
- 239000008213 purified water Substances 0.000 description 9
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 8
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 8
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 7
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 7
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 7
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- HIQIXEFWDLTDED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-hydroxy-1-piperidin-4-ylpyrrolidin-2-one Chemical compound O=C1CC(O)CN1C1CCNCC1 HIQIXEFWDLTDED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- QZKRHPLGUJDVAR-UHFFFAOYSA-K EDTA trisodium salt Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].OC(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O QZKRHPLGUJDVAR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 6
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 6
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- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
- CJZGTCYPCWQAJB-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium stearate Chemical compound [Ca+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O CJZGTCYPCWQAJB-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 6
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- OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl(dioctadecyl)azanium Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/965—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic in which the ultraviolet protection (blocking) effects are markedly improved by blending formulated amounts of a non-volatile polar oil and an oil phase thickener.
- Sunscreen cosmetics which are a type of UV-care cosmetic, are cosmetics that are intended to protect the skin from damage due to ultraviolet rays by covering the skin with a coating film containing an ultraviolet absorbing agent or an ultraviolet scattering agent, thereby absorbing or scattering UVA and UVB rays and suppressing the amount of ultraviolet radiation that reaches the skin (Non-Patent Document 1).
- sunscreen cosmetics are commonly obtained (provided) by blending an appropriate combination of ultraviolet absorbing agents that chemically absorb ultraviolet rays and ultraviolet scattering agents that physically reflect/scatter ultraviolet rays, in order to obtain a high SPF (Sun Protection Factor) value.
- ultraviolet scattering agents represented by titanium oxide (dioxide) and zinc oxide, scatter visible light in addition to ultraviolet rays.
- titanium oxide dioxide
- zinc oxide scatter visible light in addition to ultraviolet rays.
- the washability becomes poor.
- the astringent effect of zinc oxide imparts a feeling of dryness to the skin and may cause the feeling in use to become worse.
- Patent Document 1 proposes not-blending an ultraviolet scattering agent but blending a large amount of an ultraviolet absorbing agent, and meanwhile, blending in 0.5 to 2% by mass of a dextrin fatty acid ester and/or a sucrose fatty acid ester relative to the overall amount of the cosmetic in order to suppress oiliness and stickiness that occurs when increasing the amount of the ultraviolet absorbing agent.
- Patent Document 1 JP 2011-126832 A
- Non-Patent Document 1 Shin-keshohin-gaku [New Cosmetology], 2nd edition, edited by Takeo Mitsui, 2001, published by Nanzando, pp. 497-504
- a purpose of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is able to provide sufficiently high ultraviolet protection (blocking) effects even without practically blending in any additional ultraviolet scattering agent.
- the present inventors performed diligent investigations towards solving the aforementioned problem, as a result of which they discovered that high ultraviolet protection effects can be obtained, even when reducing the blended amount or not-blending an ultraviolet scattering agent, by using an ultraviolet absorbing agent in combination with a formulated amount of a non-volatile polar oil and an oil phase thickener, and accordingly, the present invention is complete.
- the present invention provides a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising: (A) 6 to 40% by mass of an ultraviolet absorbing agent; (B) 15% by mass or more of a non-volatile polar ester oil (other than the (A) ultraviolet absorbing agent); and (C) 0.5 to 15% by mass of an oil phase thickener.
- the present invention is able to provide excellent ultraviolet protection effects, even when practically no ultraviolet scattering agents are blended therein. For this reason, a cosmetic that does not result in unnatural whiteness and is versatile can be provided.
- the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by that containing (A) an ultraviolet absorbing agent, (B) a non-volatile polar oil, and (C) an oil phase thickener.
- A an ultraviolet absorbing agent
- B a non-volatile polar oil
- C an oil phase thickener
- component (A) ultraviolet absorbing agent blended in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention
- component (A) ultraviolet absorbing agent blended in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention
- component (A) it is possible to use one that is normally blended into sunscreen cosmetics.
- the (A) ultraviolet absorbing agent is not particularly limited, but specific examples include organic ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate, t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
- organic ultraviolet absorbing agents such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, dime
- the blended amount of component (A) should be 6 to 40% by mass, more preferably 8 to 35% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 30% by mass relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the blended amount of component (A) is less than 6% by mass, sufficient ultraviolet protection effects cannot be obtained, and even if more than 40% by mass is blended, an increase in the ultraviolet protection effects that is commensurate with the blended amount cannot be expected, and this is undesirable for making the stability worse and the like.
- Component (A) may be used as one kind alone or may be a combination of two or more types.
- the (B) non-volatile polar oil (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as “component (B)”) blended into the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention is a polar ester oil that does not exhibit volatility at ambient temperature (25° C.) and ambient pressure (1 atm (9.8 ⁇ 10 4 Pa)) (for example, including oils having a boiling point equal to or higher than approximately 200° C. at ambient (atmospheric) pressure), and that has fluidity at ambient temperature and ambient (atmospheric) pressure.
- the “polar oil” is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil having high polarity among oils that are generally used in cosmetics.
- ultraviolet absorbing agent that may have ester bonds and be non-volatile and polar are counted as the component (A) in the present invention and are not included in component (B).
- non-volatile polar oil examples include diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipenta
- the blended amount of component (B) should be 15% by mass or more, more preferably 18% by mass or more, and even more preferably 20% by mass or more relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the blended amount of component (B) is less than 15% by mass, the ultraviolet protection effects cannot be sufficiently improved. On the other hand, if a large amount of component (B) is blended, there is a tendency for the feeling in use and the water resistance to become worse. Thus, at most, the blended amount should be 70% by mass or less and should more preferably be 50% by mass or less. Component (B) may be used as a single kind alone or as a combination of two or more kinds.
- the (C) oil phase thickener (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as “ingredient (C)”) blended in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention is a substance that can adjust the viscosity of the oil phase in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
- component (C) dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, fatty acids or salts thereof, hardened vegetable oils, solid or semi-solid vegetable oils, organically modified clay minerals, glyceryl fatty acid esters and amino acid-based gelling agents are preferred.
- Dextrin fatty acid esters are esters of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, which may be used without any particular restrictions as long as they are generally used in cosmetics.
- the dextrin or reduced dextrin one in which the average degree of sugar polymerization is 3 to 100 is preferably used.
- a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is preferably used as the constituent fatty acids in the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate) and the like.
- sucrose fatty acid ester (an alkyl chain of) the fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chain having 12 to 22 carbon atoms is preferably used.
- Specific examples include sucrose caprylic acid esters, sucrose capric acid esters, sucrose lauric acid esters, sucrose myristic acid esters, sucrose palmitic acid esters, sucrose stearic acid esters, sucrose oleic acid esters, sucrose erucic acid esters and the like.
- the fatty acid may be solid at ambient temperature, and examples include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and the like. Additionally, the fatty acid salt may be a calcium salt, a magnesium salt, an aluminum salt or the like of the above.
- hardened vegetable oil examples include hardened palm kernel oil, hardened castor oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated camellia oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated macadamia nut oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated wheat germ oil, hydrogenated rice germ oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated avocado oil and the like.
- a vegetable oil that is solid or semi-solid at room temperature it is also possible to use a vegetable oil that is solid or semi-solid at room temperature.
- a solid oil refers to an oil that is solid at 25° C.
- a semi-solid oil is in between solid and oil at 25° C. More specifically, one in which the melting point is within the range from 44° C. to 90° C., the viscosity measured with a B-type viscometer at 25° C. is 5000 mPa ⁇ s or higher, or furthermore, 10,000 mPa ⁇ s or higher, is preferred.
- examples of vegetable oils that are solid or semi-solid at room temperature include cacao butter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Japan tallow, shea butter and the like.
- organically modified clay mineral it is possible to use a clay mineral modified by a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant, represented by the following general formula (1), which is a type of colloidal hydrated aluminum silicate having a three-layered structure.
- a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant represented by the following general formula (1), which is a type of colloidal hydrated aluminum silicate having a three-layered structure.
- X ⁇ Al, Fe(III), Mn(III) or Cr(III); Y ⁇ Mg, Fe(II), Ni, Zn or Li; and Z ⁇ K, Na or Ca.
- the organically modified clay mineral can be obtained by treating, with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant, a clay mineral which may be a natural or synthetic (in this case, an (OH) group in the formula is substituted with a fluorine) clay mineral in the montmorillonite group, such as montmorillonite, saponite or hectorite (commercial products include Veegum, Kunipia, Laponite, etc.), or a synthetic mica known under the name of sodium silicic mica or sodium or lithium taeniolite (commercial products include Dimonite, manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd. etc.).
- the quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant used in this case is represented by the following general chemical formula (2):
- R′ represents an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms or a benzyl group
- R 2 represents a methyl group or an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 3 and R 4 represent alkyl groups or hydroxyalkyl groups having 1 to 3 carbon atoms
- X represents a halogen atom or a methylsulfate residue
- Examples of the quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant include dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, arachyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylethylammonium chloride, arachyldimethylethylammonium chloride, behenyldimethylethylammonium chloride, myristyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, cetyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, stearyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, arachyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, behenyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, benz
- organically modified clay minerals include dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite (distearyldimonium hectorite), dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated aluminum-magnesium silicate and the like. Of these, dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite is particularly preferred.
- Bentone 27 (benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride-treated hectorite, manufactured by Elementis Japan KK) and Bentone 38 (distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated hectorite, manufactured by Elementis Japan KK) are preferred.
- Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterified reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a diprotic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding diprotic acids) and may be used without any particular restrictions as long as they are generally used in cosmetics. Specific examples include glyceryl (behenate/isostearate/eicosanedioate), glyceryl (behenate/eicosanedioate) and polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosanedioate), etc.
- amino acid-based gelling agents examples include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8, polyamide-3, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutyl amide and the like.
- the blended amount of component (C) should preferably be 0.5 to 15% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 8% by mass relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the blended amount of component (C) is less than 0.5% by mass, then the ultraviolet protection effects cannot be sufficiently improved, and if more than 15% by mass is blended, then the viscosity becomes high, and this is undesirable in terms of the properties when used, such as by becoming difficult to spread over the skin. Additionally, component (C) may be one type used alone or may be a combination of two or more types. In particular, it is preferable for two or more types of oil phase thickeners to be blended, and for one of the types to be an organically modified clay mineral. Furthermore, it is preferable to blend 2% by mass or more of a (C) oil phase thickener other than an organically modified clay mineral.
- the ultraviolet protection effects can be improved by containing the above-mentioned components (A) to (C).
- component (D) a powder having an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m or smaller (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as “component (D)”) in addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (C).
- component (D) a powder having an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m or smaller
- Component (D) has an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m or smaller, more preferably 12 ⁇ m or smaller.
- the lower limit of the average particle size is not particularly limited, it should preferably be 3 ⁇ m or larger for the reason that it becomes more difficult to handle and the like.
- the average particle size can be measured by means of a laser diffraction/scattering method.
- Component (D) used in the present invention is preferably selected from a group consisting of the following (i) to (iv):
- Talc is a silicic acid salt-based clay mineral, which is widely used in cosmetics as an extender pigment in the same way as mica, sericite and the like.
- hydrophobically treated talc wherein talc is the base material and the surface thereof is hydrophobically treated, is particularly preferred.
- the hydrophobic treatment is not particularly restricted, but may, for example, be a silicone treatment (treatment with a silicone oil such as methylhydrogen polysiloxane, dimethyl polysiloxane or methylphenyl polysiloxane; an alkylsilane such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane or octyltrimethoxysilane; or a fluoroalkylsilane such as trifluoromethylethyl trimethoxysilane or heptadecafluorodecyl trimethoxysilane), a fatty acid treatment (treatment with palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, rosin acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or the like), a fatty acid soap treatment (treatment with aluminum stearate, calcium
- hydrophobically treated talc it is possible to use a commercial product, an example of which is “Calcium stearate-treated talc” (Fujimoto Chemicals Co., Ltd.).
- silicone powder one that is normally used as a cosmetic raw material may be used.
- silicone powders methylpolysiloxane network polymers, crosslinked methylpolysiloxane, crosslinked silicone-network silicone block copolymers, silylated silica and the like are known. Of these, crosslinked silicone-network silicone block copolymers are particularly preferred.
- silicone powder commercial product that can be used is “KSP-100” (manufactured by Shin-etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. (vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, average particle size 5 ⁇ m).
- PMMA powder any type that is normally used as a cosmetic raw material may be used, as long as the average particle size is 15 ⁇ m or smaller.
- crosslinked poly(methyl methacrylate) powder it is possible to use a commercial product, an example of which is “Ganzpearl” (manufactured by Aica Kogyo Co., Ltd., average particle size 8 ⁇ m).
- silica silicic anhydride
- any type that is normally used as a cosmetic raw material may be used, regardless of whether it is porous or non-porous.
- Examples of commercial products include “Sunsphere H-31” (manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.) (average particle size 3 ⁇ m), “Sunsphere H-51” (manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.) (average particle size 5 ⁇ m) and “Sunsphere H-121” (manufactured by AGC Si-Tech Co., Ltd.) (average particle size 12 ⁇ m).
- silica having a hydrophobically treated surface such as, for example, dimethylsilylated silicic anhydride and trimethylsilylated silicic anhydride.
- the component (D) selected from the above-mentioned (i) to (iv) may be of one type used alone or may be a combination of two or more types.
- the blended amount of component (D) is not particularly limited, but should preferably be 1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 1 to 25% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 20% by mass relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the blended amount of component (D) is less than 1% by mass, then there is a tendency for the effects of component (D) to not be able to be sufficiently obtained. If more than 30% by mass is blended, then there are cases in which the properties when used become worse, such as squeakiness, smudges and stickiness occurring, and cases in which the cosmetic becomes difficult to formulate.
- the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is able to realize sufficient ultraviolet protection effects by containing the above-mentioned components (A) to (C), even without blending in an ultraviolet scattering agent.
- an ultraviolet scattering agent for the purpose of further improving the protection effects against ultraviolet rays.
- it should be 6% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 4% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 3% by mass or less relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic in order to suppress unnatural whiteness and reductions of the texture due to the ultraviolet scattering agent.
- the ultraviolet scattering agent that may be blended in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and an ultraviolet scattering agent that is normally used in cosmetics may be used.
- ultraviolet scattering agents include fine-particle metal oxides such as zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide and tungsten oxide, and these metal oxides with surfaces that have been subjected to various hydrophobic surface treatments.
- hydrophobic surface treatment agent that is generally used in the cosmetic field including, for example, silicones such as dimethicone and alkyl-modified silicone, alkoxysilanes such as octyltriethoxysilane, dextrin fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate, and fatty acids such as stearic acid may be used.
- silicones such as dimethicone and alkyl-modified silicone
- alkoxysilanes such as octyltriethoxysilane
- dextrin fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate
- fatty acids such as stearic acid
- the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may appropriately contain, as needed, components that are normally used in cosmetics such as, for example, oils, water, alcohols, surfactants, oil-based active agents, water-based active agents, water phase thickeners, humectants and antioxidants.
- components that are normally used in cosmetics such as, for example, oils, water, alcohols, surfactants, oil-based active agents, water-based active agents, water phase thickeners, humectants and antioxidants.
- a surfactant that may be used in the present invention is preferably a surfactant having an HLB lower than 8, particularly a silicon-based surfactant, in order to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion state.
- silicone-based surfactants having an HLB lower than 8 include polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones, polyoxyalkylene/alkyl co-modified silicones, polyglycerin-modified silicones and/or polyglycerin/alkyl co-modified silicones.
- KF-6017 PEG-10 dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- KF-6028 PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- ABIL EM 90 cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, manufactured by Evonik Goldschmidt Corp.
- KF-6038 laauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, manufactured by Shin-etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- the blended amount of the silicone-based surfactant should preferably be 0.1 to 8% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 7% by mass, even more preferably 0.4 to 5% by mass relative to the overall amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
- the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may be provided not only, for example, as a sunscreen cream, a sunscreen milky lotion or a sunscreen lotion, but may also be used as a foundation, a makeup base, a makeup cosmetic, a hair cosmetic or the like imparted with sunscreen effects, and may be produced by a conventional method.
- Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics having the compositions indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared by heating and melting the oil-based components and dispersing the powder therein, adding the separately mixed water phase thereto, and emulsifying the mixture by stirring.
- T transmittance of sample
- To transmittance of uncoated plate
- the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics having the compositions indicated in Table 3 below were prepared in the same manner as above, and the ultraviolet protection effects were evaluated by measuring the in-vitro SPF of the cosmetics by the method indicated below.
- Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics having the compositions indicated in Table 4 and Table 5 below were prepared, and the cumulative absorbance (Abs) values were measured in the same manner as above.
- Crosslinked silicone-network silicone — 10 — — — — — — — — block copolymer (30 ⁇ m) Calcium stearate-treated talc (average — — — 10 — — — particle size 7 ⁇ m)
- Crosslinked silicone-network silicone — — — — — 10 — — block copolymer (5 ⁇ m)
- Silicic anhydride (average particle size 5 — — — — — — 10 ⁇ m)
- Calcium stearate-treated talc (average particle 10 — — — — — size 22 ⁇ m) Dimethylpolysiloxane-treated talc (average — 10 — — — — particle size 12 ⁇ m) Perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane/alkyl acrylate — — 10 — — — — copolymer methyl polysiloxane ester-treated talc (average particle size 12 ⁇ m) Carboxydecyltrisiloxane zinc salt-treated talc — — — 10 — — (average particle size 12 ⁇ m) Triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl — — — 10 — hexyl dimethicone-treated talc (average particle size 12 ⁇ m) Triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl — — — — 10 —
- Blended amount (Component Name) (% by mass) Purified water balance Alcohol 5 Trisodium 0.1 edetate Table salt 0.1 Sodium 0.01 pyrosulfite Phenoxyethanol 1 Glycerin 5 Erythritol 1 Xylitol 1 Tormentilia 0.1 extract Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 2-O-ethyl L-ascorbic acid 0.1 Dipotassium 0.05 glycyrrhizinate Isopropyl myristate 5 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 5 Alkyl (C 12-15 ) benzoate 3 Methyl polysiloxane 6 Cyclopentasiloxane 6 50% Trisiloxysilicic acid in 2 cyclopentasiloxane solution Dextrin palmitate 2 2-Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Homosalate 5 Hydrophobically treated fine-particle 3 titanium
- Crosslinked silicone-network silicone 6 block copolymer (average particle size 5 ⁇ m) Fine-particle dimethylsilylated silica 0.5 Lauryl PEG-9 2 polydimethylpolysiloxyethyl dimethicone Dimethyl distearyl 1 ammonium hectorite Dextrin palmitate 0.5 Isostearic acid 0.2 Tocopherol 0.01 Fragrance s.a.
- Blended amount (Component Name) (% by mass) Purified water balance Alcohol 10 Trisodium 0.1 edetate Table salt 0.1 Sodium 0.01 pyrosulfite Glycerin 1 Xylitol 1 Tormentilla 0.1 extract Sodium 0.1 hyaluronate 2-O-ethyl L-ascorbic acid 0.1 Dipotassium 0.05 glycyrrhizinate Isododecane 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 8 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5 Isopropyl myristate 5 PBG/PPG-9/1 copolymer 2 Methyl polysiloxane 5 Cyclopentasiloxane 3 Caprylyl methicone 3 20% Highly polymerized aminopropyl 1 dimethicone in dimethicone 20 cs solution 50% Trifluoroalkyl dimethyl 3 trimethylsiloxysilicic acid dimethicone solution Dextrin palm
- Blended amount (Component Name) (% by mass) Purified water balance Alcohol 8 Trisodium 0.2 edetate Silica 0.5 Glycerin 1 Polyoxyethylene (14) 1 polyoxypropylene (7) dimethyl ether Rosa canina fruit oil 0.1 Sodium 0.1 hyaluronate 2-O-ethyl L-ascorbic acid 0.5 Dipotassium 0.05 glycyrrhizinate Isododecane 10 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5 Isopropyl myristate 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 5 Alkyl (C 12-15 ) benzoate 3 PBG/PPG-9/1 copolymer 1 Methyl polysiloxane 10 Cyclopentasiloxane 3 50% Trisiloxysilicic acid 0.5 in cyclopentasiloxane solution Sucrose tetrastearate triacetate 1 Dextrin palmitate 2 2-Ethylhexyl
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Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| JP2017113231 | 2017-06-08 | ||
| PCT/JP2018/021662 WO2018225768A1 (fr) | 2017-06-08 | 2018-06-06 | Préparation cosmétique de type émulsion eau-dans-l'huile |
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| US20210077365A1 true US20210077365A1 (en) | 2021-03-18 |
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| US (1) | US20210077365A1 (fr) |
| EP (1) | EP3636245A4 (fr) |
| JP (2) | JP7295797B2 (fr) |
| KR (1) | KR102648547B1 (fr) |
| CN (1) | CN110785160A (fr) |
| TW (1) | TW201902454A (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO2018225768A1 (fr) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP4245291A1 (fr) * | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-20 | Symrise AG | Additif pour écrans solaires |
| EP4245292A1 (fr) * | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-20 | Symrise AG | Additif pour écrans solaires |
| WO2023175129A1 (fr) | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-21 | Symrise Ag | Additif pour écrans solaires |
Families Citing this family (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP7240857B2 (ja) * | 2018-11-15 | 2023-03-16 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | 油中水型乳化組成物 |
| CN114340583A (zh) * | 2019-09-05 | 2022-04-12 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油包水型组合物 |
| CN114599340B (zh) | 2019-10-30 | 2024-04-30 | 陶氏环球技术有限责任公司 | 具有中空介孔二氧化硅纳米球的防晒组合物 |
| CN114828809A (zh) * | 2019-12-16 | 2022-07-29 | 株式会社资生堂 | 防晒化妆品 |
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP4245291A1 (fr) * | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-20 | Symrise AG | Additif pour écrans solaires |
| EP4245292A1 (fr) * | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-20 | Symrise AG | Additif pour écrans solaires |
| WO2023175129A1 (fr) | 2022-03-17 | 2023-09-21 | Symrise Ag | Additif pour écrans solaires |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN110785160A (zh) | 2020-02-11 |
| JPWO2018225768A1 (ja) | 2020-04-09 |
| JP2023089269A (ja) | 2023-06-27 |
| KR102648547B1 (ko) | 2024-03-18 |
| KR20200014313A (ko) | 2020-02-10 |
| EP3636245A4 (fr) | 2021-03-10 |
| TW201902454A (zh) | 2019-01-16 |
| JP7295797B2 (ja) | 2023-06-21 |
| WO2018225768A1 (fr) | 2018-12-13 |
| EP3636245A1 (fr) | 2020-04-15 |
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