Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
  • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/899—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing sulfur, e.g. sodium PG-propyldimethicone thiosulfate copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition
• a hair conditioning composition comprising from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a silicone compound, and wherein the composition has a Silicone deposition amount of at least about 1,600, and Silicone deposition evenness value of at least 0.83.
• the composition of the present invention provides improved hair manageability.
• conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.
• the present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition
• a hair conditioning composition comprising from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a silicone compound, and wherein the composition has a Silicone deposition amount of at least about 1,600, and Silicone deposition evenness value of at least 0.83.
• composition of the present invention provides hair manageability, for example, improved hair alignment on dry hair after combing, reduced volume on dry hair (especially at the bottom side of hair) after combing, and/or curl-in hair tips after combing on dry hair, by having the above two parameters.
• mixtures is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.
• molecular weight refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated.
• the weight average molecular weight may be measured by gel permeation chromatography.
• the hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a silicone compound, and wherein the composition has a Silicone deposition amount of at least about 1,600, and Silicone deposition evenness value of at least 0.83. It is believed that the improved deposition amount of silicone and the balanced deposition of the silicone between the top and bottom sides of the hair provide improved hair manageability, for example, improved hair alignment on dry hair after combing, reduced volume on dry hair (especially at the bottom side of hair) after combing, and/or curl-in hair tips after combing on dry hair.
• the composition of the present invention has a Silicone deposition amount of at least about 1600, preferably at least about 1800, more preferably at least about 2000, still more preferably at least about 2200 in view of providing hair manageability benefit.
• the Silicone deposition amount is preferably to about 7000, more preferably to about 5000, still more preferably to about 4000, even more preferably to about 3500, in view of avoiding sticky/greasy feel on dry hair and/or clumpy hair (less free-flowing) on dry hair.
• Silicone deposition amounts herein are measured by a method consisting of: (i) a preparation of hair switch; and (ii) silicone deposition measurement, and (iii) evaluation.
• the hair switches are prepared by following steps:
• the hair switch is ready for the measurement of its silicone deposition amount, and evaluation.
• the deposited silicone on the bottom side of hair switch is extracted in an appropriate solvent.
• the extracts are then introduced into an atomic absorption/emission detector instrument and measured at the appropriate wavelength.
• the absorbance/emission value returned by the instrument is then converted to actual concentration (microgram) of silicone compound deposited on the hair through an external calibration curve obtained with known weights of a well characterized standard of the silicone compound under study. Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram on hair is calculated.
• the above deposition measurement in the step (ii) are conducted on at least 3 different hair switches prepared by the step (i) per one conditioner, and then calculate an average of “Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram” to obtain Silicone deposition amount.
• the composition of the present invention has a Silicone deposition evenness value of at least about 0.83, preferably at least about 0.87, more preferably at least about 0.9, still more preferably at least about 0.95, in view of providing hair manageability benefit, and also in view of avoiding greasy/sticky on hair root due to too much deposition on hair root.
• the Silicone deposition evenness value is preferably to about 1.4, more preferably to about 1.3, still more preferably to about 1.2, even more preferably to about 1.1, in view of providing long-term hair manageability benefit, i.e., hair manageability when the current hair root becomes hair tip in a certain time period.
• Silicone deposition evenness value is a comparison between a silicone deposition amount at the bottom of the hair switch and a silicone deposition amount at the top of the hair switch.
• bottom side of hairs are more damaged compared to top side of hairs, and it has been difficult to obtain balanced silicone deposition at both bottom and top side of hairs.
• Silicone deposition evenness value herein are measured by the following steps:
• Silicone deposition amounts herein are measured by a method consisting of: (i) a preparation of hair switch; and (ii) silicone deposition measurement, and (iii) evaluation.
• the deposited silicone on the bottom side of hair switch is extracted in an appropriate solvent. Separately the deposited silicone on the top side of hair switch extracted in an appropriate solvent.
• the extracts are then introduced into an atomic absorption/emission detector instrument and measured at the appropriate wavelength.
• the absorbance/emission value returned by the instrument is then converted to actual concentration (microgram) of silicone compound deposited on the hair through an external calibration curve obtained with known weights of a well characterized standard of the silicone compound under study. Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram on hair is calculated.
• the above deposition measurements in the step (ii) are conducted on at least 3 different hair switches prepared by the step (i) per one conditioner, and then calculate an average of “Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram” for bottom and top sides of hair switches respectively.
• the average of “Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram” for the bottom sides of the hair switches is divided by the average of “Microgram ( ⁇ g) per gram” for the top sides of hair switches, to obtain Silicone deposition evenness value.
• the composition of the present invention comprises cyclic compounds selected from the group consisting of Vitamin B3 compounds, Xanthine compounds, Salicylic acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
• the cyclic compounds can be included in the hair conditioning composition at a level of from about 0.2%, preferably from about 0.5%, more preferably from about 0.6% in view of providing hair manageability, and to about 10%, preferably to about 5%, more preferably to about 4%, still more preferably to about 3% in view of hair manageability especially hair alignment after combing.
• vitamin B3 compound means one or more compounds having the formula:
• R is —CONH 2 (i.e., niacinamide), —COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or —CH 2 OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; mixtures thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
• Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid (e.g, tocopherol nicotinate, and myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
• nicotinic acid esters including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid (e.g, tocopherol nicotinate, and myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
• Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention, and also in view of the stability in the composition as other vitamin B3 products such as nicotinic acid esters may be decomposed to nicotinic acids.
• xanthine compound means one or more xanthines, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
• Xanthine Compounds that can be useful herein include, but are not limited to, caffeine, xanthine, 1-methyl xanthine, theophylline, theobromine, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Among these compounds, caffeine is preferred in view of providing the benefit of the present invention, maybe in view of its solubility in the composition.
• Salicylic acid ester means one or more compounds having the following structure:
• Y is linear or branched alkyl having from about 1 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 2 to about 15 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 3 to about 10 carbon atoms. Highly preferred herein are those having a branched alkyl as Y. Among them, further preferred is ethylhexylsalicylate.
• the composition of the present invention comprises a compound having at least three large head groups.
• the compound can be included in the hair conditioning composition at a level of from about 0.1%, preferably from about 0.2%, more preferably from about 0.5%, in view of providing hair manageability, and to about 15%, preferably to about 10%, more preferably to about 8%, still more preferably to about 5% in view of providing improved clean feel (i.e., reduced greasy/sticky feel) on dry hair, and/or free flowing (i.e., reduced clumpy hair) on dry hair.
• the weight ratio of the above cyclic compounds to this compound having at least three large head groups is from about 0.3:1 to about 2.2:1, more preferably, from about 0.4:1 to about 2:1, still more preferably from about 0.4:1 to about 1.8:1, even more preferably from about 0.5:1 to about 1.4: 1.
• the ratio of the cyclic compounds is too high, the composition may cause phase separation.
• the ratio of the compound having at least three large head groups is too high, the composition tends to have reduced spreadability on hair.
• the compounds useful herein are those having at least three large head groups, preferably at least three hydrocarbon groups wherein each of the hydrocarbon groups has from about 5 to about 50 carbons, more preferably from about 6 to about 40 carbons, still more preferably from about 6 to about 35 carbons.
• the total number of the carbon atoms of such at least three large head groups preferably hydrocarbon groups are, preferably from about 15 to about 150, more preferably from about 18 to about 120, still more preferably from about 18 to about 105.
• the 3 hydrocarbon groups are independently, branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups.
• Such compounds useful herein are, for example, triesters.
• Such triesters include, for example, glycerol triesters having the following formula:
• glycerol triesters include, for example, trioctanoin (also known as glycerol trioctanoate or caprylic acid triglyceride).
• R 11 is H, CH 3 or C 2 H 5
• R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 are explained above as three large head groups.
• Such triesters further include, for example, citrate triesters the following formula:
• R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 are explained above as three large head groups.
• alkyl glutamate diesters having the following formula:
• alkyl glutamate diesters are, for example, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in which lauroyl corresponds to R 31 , Phytosteryl corresponds to R 32 Octyl dodecyl corresponds to R 33 .
• Such Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate can be supplied from, for example, Ajinomoto with a tradename Eldew PS-203.
• glycerol triesters and alkyl glutamate diesters, more preferred are glycerol triesters.
• the compositions of the present invention may comprise a cationic surfactant.
• the cationic surfactant can be included in the composition at a level of from about 1.0%, preferably from about 1.5%, more preferably from about 2.0%, still more preferably from about 3.0%, and to about 25%, preferably to about 10%, more preferably to about 8.0%, still more preferably to about 6.0% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
• the surfactant is water-insoluble.
• water-insoluble surfactants means that the surfactants have a solubility in water at 25° C. of preferably below 0.5 g/100 g (excluding 0.5 g/100 g) water, more preferably 0.3 g/100 g water or less.
• Cationic surfactant useful herein can be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants.
• the cationic surfactant is selected from: a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a combination of a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and a di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a mono-long alkyl amine; a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; and a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt.
• Mono-long alkyl amine useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain of preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 alkyl group.
• Mono-long alkyl amines useful herein also include mono-long alkyl amidoamines Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful.
• tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
• exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethyl amine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethyl amine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethyl amine, arachidamidopropyldimethyl amine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyl
• amines are used in combination with acids such as l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, more preferably from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1.
• acids such as l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, more preferably from about 1:0.4
• the mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably C18-22 alkyl group.
• the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
• Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (I):
• R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X ⁇ is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
• alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
• the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
• one of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C 2 H 5 OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
• Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyl trimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
• di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are preferably combined with a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and/or mono-long alkyl amine salt, at the weight ratio of from 1:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 1:1.2 to 1:5, still more preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:4, in view of stability in rheology and conditioning benefits.
• Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having two long alkyl chains of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
• Such di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (I):
• R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are selected from an aliphatic group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X ⁇ is a salt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as chloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and
• the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
• the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
• two of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, CH 2 C 6 H 5 , and mixtures thereof.
• Such preferred di-long alkyl cationic surfactants include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
• the composition of the present invention may comprises a high melting point fatty compound.
• the high melting point fatty compound can be included in the composition at a level of from about 2.5%, preferably from about 3.0%, more preferably from about 4.0%, still more preferably from about 5.0%, and to about 30%, preferably to about 10%, more preferably to about 8.0% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
• the high melting point fatty compound useful herein have a melting point of 25° C. or higher, preferably 40° C. or higher, more preferably 45° C. or higher, still more preferably 50° C. or higher, in view of stability of the emulsion especially the gel matrix.
• such melting point is up to about 90° C., more preferably up to about 80° C., still more preferably up to about 70° C., even more preferably up to about 65° C., in view of easier manufacturing and easier emulsification.
• the high melting point fatty compound can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used as such blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.
• the high melting point fatty compound useful herein is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than the above preferred in the present invention. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
• fatty alcohols are preferably used in the composition of the present invention.
• the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.
• Preferred fatty alcohols include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting point. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group.
• more preferred fatty alcohol is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
• the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is preferably from about 1:9 to 9:1, more preferably from about 1:4 to about 4:1, still more preferably from about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1.
• the mixture has the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol of preferably from about 1:1 to about 4:1, more preferably from about 1:1 to about 2:1, still more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2:1, in view of avoiding to get too thick for spreadability. It may also provide more conditioning on damaged part of the hair.
• composition of the present invention may also comprises an aqueous carrier.
• level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
• the carrier useful in the present invention includes water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols.
• the lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
• the aqueous carrier is substantially water.
• Deionized water is preferably used.
• Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
• the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% to about 99%, preferably from about 50% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 70% to about 90%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 90% aqueous carrier, preferably water.
• a gel matrix is formed by the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier, when containing these components.
• the gel matrix is suitable for providing various conditioning benefits, such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair and softness and moisturized feel on dry hair.
• the composition provides further improved spreadability which is believed to provide more balanced deposition of hair conditioning agents both on hair tips and hair root and thus deliver further improved hair manageability.
• the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is in the range of, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 1:1.5 to about 1:7, still more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:6, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits.
• the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants, in view of stability of the gel matrix.
• the composition being substantially free of anionic surfactants means that: the composition is free of anionic surfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the level of such anionic surfactants is very low.
• compositions of the present invention comprises a silicone compound. It is believed that the silicone compound can provide smoothness and softness on dry hair.
• the silicone compounds herein can be used at levels by weight of the composition of preferably from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 8%.
• the silicone compounds have an average particle size of from about lmicrons to about 50 microns, in the composition.
• the silicone compounds useful herein, as a single compound, as a blend or mixture of at least two silicone compounds, or as a blend or mixture of at least one silicone compound and at least one solvent, have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mPa ⁇ s at 25° C.
• Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, amino substituted silicones, quaternized silicones, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties can also be used.
• Preferred polyalkyl siloxanes include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane.
• Polydimethylsiloxane which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
• the above polyalkylsiloxanes are available, for example, as a mixture with silicone compounds having a lower viscosity.
• Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 100,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably from about 5,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 50,000 mPa ⁇ s.
• Such mixtures preferably comprise: (i) a first silicone having a viscosity of from about 100,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 30,000,000 mPa ⁇ s at 25° C., preferably from about 100,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 20,000,000 mPa.
• a second silicone having a viscosity of from about 5 mPa ⁇ s to about 10,000 mPa ⁇ s at 25° C., preferably from about 5 mPa ⁇ s to about 5,000 mPa ⁇ s.
• Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, a blend of dimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa ⁇ s and dimethicone having a viscosity of 200 mPa ⁇ s available from GE Toshiba, and a blend of dimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa ⁇ s and cyclopentasiloxane available from GE Toshiba.
• the silicone compounds useful herein also include a silicone gum.
• silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials.
• the “silicone gums” will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000.
• silicone gums are available, for example, as a mixture with silicone compounds having a lower viscosity.
• Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, Gum/Cyclomethicone blend available from Shin-Etsu.
• Silicone compounds useful herein also include amino substituted materials.
• Preferred aminosilicones include, for example, those which conform to the general formula (I):
• G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C 1 -C 8 alkyl, preferably methyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 1; b is 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999; m is an integer from 0 to 1,999; the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000; a and m are not both 0; R 1 is a monovalent radical conforming to the general formula CqH 2 qL, wherein q is an integer having a value from 2 to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: —N(R 2 )CH 2 —CH 2 —N(R 2 ) 2 ; —N(R 2 ) 2 ; —N(R 2 ) 3 A ⁇ ; —N(R 2 )CH 2 —CH 2 —NR 2 H 2 A ⁇ ; wherein R 2 is hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or
• Such highly preferred amino silicones can be called as terminal aminosilicones, as one or both ends of the silicone chain are terminated by nitrogen containing group.
• the above aminosilicones when incorporated into the composition, can be mixed with solvent having a lower viscosity.
• solvents include, for example, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils.
• oils include, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters.
• preferred are those selected from the group consisting of non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclic silicones, non-volatile linear silicones, and mixtures thereof.
• the non-volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 to about 10,000 centistokes at 25° C.
• non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons especially non-polar, volatile isoparaffins
• Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 100,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably from about 5,000 mPa ⁇ s to about 50,000 mPa ⁇ s.
• alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those having alkylamino substitutions as pendant groups of a silicone backbone. Highly preferred are those known as “amodimethicone”. Commercially available amodimethicones useful herein include, for example, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.
• the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
• Silicone compounds useful herein include, for example, a Silicone Polymer Containing Quaternary Groups comprising terminal ester groups, having a viscosity up to 100,000 mPa ⁇ s and a D block length of greater than 200 D units. Without being bound by theory, this low viscosity silicone polymer provides improved conditioning benefits such as smooth feel, reduced friction, and prevention of hair damage, while eliminating the need for a silicone blend.
• the silicone polymer is a polyorganosiloxane compound comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups, at least one silicone block comprising greater than 200 siloxane units, at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit, and at least one terminal ester group.
• the silicone block may comprise between 300 to 500 siloxane units.
• the silicone polymer is present in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.15% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 4% by weight of the composition.
• the polyorganosiloxane compounds have the general formulas (Ia) and (Ib):
• Z is selected from monovalent organic residues having up to 40 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms.
• the residues K may be identical or different from each other.
• the residue K is bound to the silicon atom of the residue S via a C—Si-bond.
• amine groups (—(NR 2 -A-E-A′-NR 2 )—) in the polyorganosiloxane compounds, they may have protonated ammonium groups, resulting from the protonation of such amine groups with organic or inorganic acids. Such compounds are sometimes referred to as acid addition salts of the polyorganosiloxane compounds.
• the molar ratio of the quaternary ammonium groups b) and the terminal ester groups c) is less than 100:20, even more preferred is less than 100:30 and is most preferred less than 100:50.
• the ratio can be determined by 13 C—NMR.
• the polyorganosiloxane composition may comprise:
• the polyorganosiloxane compound B) differs from the polyorganosiloxane compound A) preferably in that it does not comprise quaternary ammonium groups.
• Preferred polyorganosiloxane compounds B) result from the reaction of monofunctional organic acids, in particular carboxylic acids, and polyorganosiloxane containing bisepoxides.
• the weight ratio of compound A) to compound B) is preferably less than 90:10. Or in other words, the content of component B) is at least 10 weight percent.
• the molar ratio of the quaternary ammonium groups b) and the terminal ester groups c) is less than 100:10, even more preferred is less than 100:15 and is most preferred less than 100:20.
• the silicone polymer has a viscosity at 20° C. and a shear rate of 0.1 s ⁇ 1 (plate-plate system, plate diameter 40 mm, gap width 0.5 mm) of less than 100,000 mPa ⁇ s (100 Pa ⁇ s).
• the viscosities of the neat silicone polymers may range from 500 to 100,000 mPa ⁇ s, or preferably from 500 to 70,000 mPa ⁇ s, or more preferably from 500 to 50,000 mPa ⁇ s, or even more preferably from 500 to 20,000 mPa ⁇ s.
• the viscosities of the neat polymers may range from 500 to 10,000 mPa ⁇ s, or preferably 500 to 5000 mPa ⁇ s determined at 20 ° C. and a shear rate of 0.1 s ⁇ 1 .
• R 1 is C 1 -C 18 alkyl, C 1 -C 18 fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is preferably C 1 -C 18 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is more preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 fluoroalkyl, even more preferably C 1 -C 4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. Most preferably, R 1 is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.
• C 1 -C 22 alkyl means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups possess from 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can be straight chain or branched.
• Methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3-trimethyl hexyl moieties serve as examples.
• C 1 -C 22 fluoroalkyl means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds with 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can be straight chain or branched and are substituted with at least one fluorine atom.
• Monofluormethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluorethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl are suitable examples.
• aryl means unsubstituted or phenyl substituted once or several times with OH, F, Cl, CF 3 , C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 cycloalkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl or phenyl.
• Aryl may also mean naphthyl.
• the positive charges resulting from the ammonium group(s), are neutralized with inorganic anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organic anions, like carboxylates deriving from C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids, for example acetate, propionate, octanoate, especially from C 10 -C 18 carboxylic acids, for example decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, alkylpolyethercarboxylate, alkylsulphonate, arylsulphonate, alkylarylsulphonate, alkylsulphate, alkylpolyethersulphate, phosphates derived from phosphoric acid mono alkyl/aryl ester and phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl ester.
• inorganic anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulf
• the quaternary ammonium groups are usually generated by reacting the di-tertiary amines with an alkylating agents, selected from in particular di-epoxides (sometimes referred to also as bis-epoxides) in the presence of mono carboxylic acids and difunctional dihalogen alkyl compounds.
• an alkylating agents selected from in particular di-epoxides (sometimes referred to also as bis-epoxides) in the presence of mono carboxylic acids and difunctional dihalogen alkyl compounds.
• polyorganosiloxane compounds are of the general formulas (Ia) and (Ib):
• each group is as defined above; however, the repeating units are in a statistical arrangement (i.e., not a block-wise arrangement).
• polyorganosiloxane compounds may be also of the general formulas (IIa) or (IIb):
• each group is as defined above.
• the repeating units are usually in a statistical arrangement (i.e. not a block-wise arrangement).
• Z is a straight chain, cyclic or branched saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 , or preferably C 2 to C 18 , or even more preferably a hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by one or more —O—, or —C(O)— and substituted with —OH.
• M is —OC(O)—Z resulting from normal carboxylic acids in particular with more than 10 carbon atoms like for example dodecanoic acid.
• the molar ratio of the polyorganosiloxane-containing repeating group —K—S—K— and the polyalkylene repeating group -A-E-A′- or -A′-E-A- is between 100:1 and 1:100, or preferably between 20:1 and 1:20, or more preferably between 10:1 and 1:10.
• R may represent a monovalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by one or more —O—, —C(O)— and can be substituted by-OH
• T may represent a divalent straight-chain, cyclic, or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by —O—, —C(O)— and can be substituted by hydroxyl.
• the above described polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions may also contain: 1) individual molecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions and no ester functions; 2) molecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions; and 3) molecules which contain ester functions and no quaternary ammonium functions. While not limited to structure, the above described polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions are to be understood as mixtures of molecules comprising a certain averaged amount and ratio of both moieties.
• esters may be utilized to yield the esters.
• exemplary embodiments include C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids, for example C 2 , C 3 , C 8 acids, C 10 -C 18 carboxylic acids, for example C 12 , C 14 , C 16 acids, saturated, unsaturated and hydroxyl functionalized C 18 acids, alkylpolyethercarboxylic acids, alkylsulphonic acids, arylsulphonic acids, alkylarylsulphonic acids, alkylsulphuric acids, alkylpolyethersulphuric acids, phosphoric acid mono alkyl/aryl esters and phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl esters.
• composition of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
• additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
• compositions can be formulated into the present compositions.
• conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; perfumes; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as benzophenones; and antidandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione; non-ionic surfactant such as mono-9-octadecanoate poly(oxy-1,2-ethaned
• compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
• the composition of the present invention is especially suitable for hair conditioners especially leave-on, leave-in, and/or no-rinse hair conditioners.
• Leave-on and leave-in hair conditioners are generally used on dry, semi-wet, and/or wet hair without rinsing out the conditioner.
• no-rinse hair conditioners what is meant herein is a hair conditioner used on semi-wet to wet hair after shampooing, without rinsing out the conditioner, preferably inside of bathroom.
• the present invention is directed to the following features.
• compositions (wt %) Components Ex. 1 CEx. i CEx. ii Behenyl trimethylammonium 2.97 2.97 2.97 methosulfate Stearamidopropyl dimethyl — — — amine L-glutamic acid — — — Cetyl alcohol 1.18 1.18 1.18 Stearyl alcohol 2.93 2.93 2.93 Niacinamide 1.8 — — Trioctanoin 1.8 — — Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.8 — — Silicone compound *1 2.5 3.0 3.0 Polysorbate-20 — 0.05 0.05 Preservatives 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
• hair care composition of “Ex. 1” of the present invention and hair care compositions of “CEx. i” through “CEx. ii” as comparative examples can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art.
• Silicone deposition amount and Silicone deposition evenness value are measured by the method described above in detail. Also hair manageability benefit such as hair volume is evaluated by the following methods. Results of the measurements and evaluation are also shown above.
• Example 1 is a hair conditioning composition of the present invention which is particularly useful for the use on semi-wet to wet hair after shampooing, without rinsing out the conditioning composition.
• Such embodiment has many advantages. For example, it provides improved hair manageability such as reduced hair volume.
• the hair switches are prepared by following steps:
• volume are measured by a method described in Canadian patent application publication No. CA2567712 A1.
• the volume (mm3) is measured by conducting 3D reading by the laser scanning device.
• the above measurement in the step (ii) are conducted on at least 3 different hair switches prepared by the step (i) per one conditioner, and then calculate an average of the volume.

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• 2016
  • 2016-11-11 CN CN201680065270.8A patent/CN108348427B/zh active Active
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