US20090104294A1 - Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications - Google Patents

Bioactive composition for cosmetic applications Download PDF

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Publication number
US20090104294A1
US20090104294A1 US12/249,250 US24925008A US2009104294A1 US 20090104294 A1 US20090104294 A1 US 20090104294A1 US 24925008 A US24925008 A US 24925008A US 2009104294 A1 US2009104294 A1 US 2009104294A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
extract
skin
acid
oil
process step
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Abandoned
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US12/249,250
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English (en)
Inventor
Hans Henning Wenk
Mike Farwick
Stefan Bergfried
Ursula MacZkiewitz
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Evonik Operations GmbH
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Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH
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Assigned to EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH reassignment EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: FARWICK, MIKE, MACZKIEWITZ, URSULA, WENK, HANS HENNING, BERGFRIED, STEFAN
Publication of US20090104294A1 publication Critical patent/US20090104294A1/en
Priority to US13/106,532 priority Critical patent/US8420137B2/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/906—Zingiberaceae (Ginger family)
    • A61K36/9066—Curcuma, e.g. common turmeric, East Indian arrowroot or mango ginger
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Curcuma plants. More particularly, the present invention provides a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Cucuma which includes the following processing steps: A) liquid extraction of Curcuma rhizomes, B) optionally, separation of a curcuminoid-containing solid obtained by precipitation from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A), C) removal of solvents present from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A) or B) to obtain a concentrate, and D) distillation of the concentrate at a pressure of less than 1 bar to give the extract as distillate.
  • Curcuma longa ( curcuma, turmeric) is a plant of the ginger plant family (Zigimberaceae), the roots and rhizome of which are used as dye and spice on account of the intense yellow color and the characteristic taste. A variety of biological effects are described for the dried rhizome and extracts therefrom, including stimulation of gastric juice production, anticancer, antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effect. Curcuma longa is traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine, inter alia in topical applications for skin disorders.
  • Curcuma longa and extracts therefrom The biological effect of Curcuma longa and extracts therefrom is generally attributed to the presence of curcuminoids, in particular curcumin, demethoxycurcumin and bisdemethoxycurcumin (cf. Jayaprakasha et al., J. Agric. Food Chem, 2002, 50(13), 3668-3672; Sharma, Biochemical Pharmacology 1976, 25(15), 1811-1812 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,861,415), to which are attributed, besides the antioxidative effect e.g., anti-inflammatory, antibacterial (Negi et al., J. Agric. Food Chem.
  • Curcuma longa extracts One characteristic property of Curcuma longa extracts is the intense yellow color which is caused inter alia by the curcuminoids. Curcuminoids are derived from the curcumin structure
  • curcumin is also used as food dye (E100).
  • curcuminoid-containing extracts obtained from e.g., Curcuma longa, are interesting candidates for active ingredients for topical applications, in particular in cosmetic formulations.
  • the intense yellow/orange color stands in the way of one such use; even in concentrations of 0.1% by mass, it causes a significant, unacceptable coloring of creams or lotions.
  • Kim et al. describe the reduction in the color intensity of Curcuma aromatica and Curcuma longa extracts through irradiation with gamma radiation (Radiation Physics and Chemistry 2006, 75(3), 449-452).
  • the described process is not suitable for the preparation of cosmetic raw materials since treatment with ionizing radiation is generally not accepted by the market.
  • the present invention provides an extract from Curcuma which has a significantly reduced color, but still has the described positive biological effects. Moreover, the present invention provides a preparation process that takes place with commercially available processes which are generally accepted for the preparation of cosmetic raw materials.
  • the present invention provides a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Curcuma plants which includes:
  • FIG. 1 is a graph illustrating the antioxidative activity of a crude extract and of a distilled extracted from Curcuma longa prepared in accordance with the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a graph showing the surface and volume parameters of formulations F4-A and F4-B.
  • FIG. 4 is a graph showing the percentage change in texture parameter of formulations FA-4 and F4-B.
  • Curcuma longa extracts produced by a process according to the present invention have a significantly reduced color.
  • the correspondingly prepared extracts can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations without problems in concentrations up to 2% by mass and higher without bringing about a discernible coloration.
  • the extract according to the invention still has the desired bioactive effect, in particular it still has a strong antioxidative effect.
  • the distilled extract of the invention is able to increase the moisture content of the skin, to reduce the number and depth of wrinkles in the skin and to impart a more even, more radiant appearance to the skin.
  • the invention provides a process for the preparation of a plant extract from Curcuma plants, characterized by the following steps: process step A) liquid extraction of Curcuma rhizomes, process step B) optionally, separation of a curcuminoid-containing solid obtained by precipitation from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A), process step C) removal of solvents present from the extraction mixture obtained in process step A) or B) to obtain a concentrate and process step D) distillation of the concentrate at a pressure of less than 1 bar to give the extract as a distillate.
  • the plant raw material used for the preparation of the extract can be the rhizome of Curcuma plants, preferably of Curcuma longa, which can be pretreated before process step A), by, for example, washing, drying, comminution or grinding.
  • the rhizome is in the form of a dry powder after this pretreatment.
  • Process step A the generally known processes for solid-liquid extraction can be used, as are described, for example, in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 7th edition, release 2006 in the chapter “ Liquid - Solid Extraction ” and in particular in the subchapter “ Extraction without chemical reaction ”.
  • Process step A) can take place batchwise or continuously, in cocurrent, countercurrent or crosscurrent.
  • Suitable extractants for process step A) are nonpolar to moderately polar solvents, such as, for example, linear or branched cyclic or acyclic alkanes or alkenes (e.g., propane, butane, pentane, hexane, heptane, cyclohexane, petroleum ether), which can optionally be substituted with halogens, in particular chlorine, cyclic or acyclic linear or branched ethers (e.g., diethyl ether, tert-butyl methyl ether, tert-butyl ethyl ether, tetrahydrofuran), primary, secondary or tertiary alcohols, in particular alkanols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, tert-butanol, cyclohexanol); esters of short-chain carboxylic acids with short-chain alcohols (e.g.,
  • Particularly suitable solvents in process step A) are compressed gases, such as, for example, propane or carbon dioxide, which can be used in the subcritical, near-critical or supercritical phase range.
  • a supercritical liquid extraction is carried out using compressed gas, particularly preferably compressed CO 2 . This permits a particularly gentle removal of the extractants.
  • cosolvents such as, for example, ethanol, can optionally be added. Preference is given to using solvents which have no or only slight toxic or other physiologically disadvantageous effects.
  • Process step A) is preferably carried out at elevated temperature, preferably at a temperature greater than 20° C. and preferably at a temperature of from 30° C. to 80° C.
  • An optional precipitation step, process step B), can be carried out downstream of process step A); through this, a curcuminoid-rich solid fraction can be separated off from the product obtained in A).
  • the precipitation can be achieved here through partial evaporation of the solvent (concentration) or temperature reduction or combinations thereof.
  • concentration concentration
  • temperature reduction temperature reduction
  • an antisolvent in which the curcuminoids have only low solubility can likewise be used for the precipitation.
  • the solid can be separated off from the remaining solution by customary filtration methods, as are described, for example, in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 7th edition, release 2006 in the chapter “Filtration”.
  • the solid in process step B), the solid can be separated off as metal complex.
  • a solution of a metal salt such as, for example, calcium, magnesium, zinc or chromium salt, can be added to the extract from process step A) under elevated temperatures and mixed.
  • the pH can be adjusted to an advantageous value in order to precipitate the metal complex exhaustively.
  • the temperature can be reduced to provide assistance.
  • the extractants/solvents used have a low boiling point, preferably a boiling point of less than 100° C. under standard conditions.
  • process step C) preferably takes place by evaporation.
  • process step C) can take place at ambient pressure, superatmospheric pressure or subatmospheric pressure, where pressure and temperature conditions are to be adapted to the properties of the selected solvent or solvent mixture.
  • solvents are used which have boiling temperatures of above about 60° C. at atmospheric pressure, then the vaporization is preferably carried out at reduced pressure, with pressures of from about 100 to ⁇ 1000 mbar being particularly preferred.
  • Process step C) can take place either batchwise or continuously.
  • the removal of the solvent can take place particularly gently in the case of the use of compressed gases as extractants since these already convert to the gaseous state by releasing the superatmospheric pressure and can therefore be evaporated even without applying a sub-atmospheric pressure even at low temperature, e.g., ambient temperature.
  • removal of the solvent in process step C) takes place to a residual content of ⁇ 1000 ppm of solvent with residual contents of ⁇ 100 ppm being particularly preferred.
  • Plant extracts are mostly complex natural substance mixtures, the biological properties of which are often defined by synergisms, i.e., the effect of the overall extract is greater than the sum of the effect of the individual substances in corresponding concentration.
  • a concentration of individual substances as would be achieved, for example, by fractional distillation, is not necessarily advantageous.
  • Such distillation methods which have a low number of separation stages and short contact times with hot surfaces are realized, for example, in thin-film evaporators, short-path evaporators, falling-film evaporators or in the case of molecular distillation.
  • Process step D) distillation at a pressure of less than 1 bar, therefore preferably takes place as molecular distillation, particularly preferably as falling-film distillation, short-path evaporation or thin-film distillation, preferably at a pressure of ⁇ 10 mbar, in order to largely avoid high thermal stressing of the material.
  • process step D) is carried out at a pressure of from 10 ⁇ 4 to 10 mbar and particularly preferably from about 10 ⁇ 3 to 10 ⁇ 1 mbar.
  • process step D) is carried out at temperatures of ⁇ 150° C., particular preference being given here to temperatures of from 70 to 130° C. and in particular of about 100° C.
  • process step D) is carried out at a temperature of from 97° C. to 103° C. and at a pressure of 10 ⁇ 2 mbar.
  • process step D) is carried out under conditions under which no new substances are formed, detectable by GC analysis.
  • the ratio of distillate (extract according to the invention) to distillation residue i.e., the distillation yield
  • High ratios here mean high yields, which offer corresponding economic advantages, on the other hand as the distillate:residue ratio increases, so too does the fraction of color-imparting components in the distillate.
  • a distillate residue ratio that has proven suitable is from 50:50 to 98:2 parts by weight, with ratios of from 70:30 to 90:10 being preferred and ratios of from 80:20 to 90:10 being particularly preferred.
  • the extract prepared by the process according to the invention is likewise a constituent of the present invention.
  • the extract according to the invention preferably has a Gardner color number of ⁇ 6, preferably ⁇ 5, particularly preferably ⁇ 4.
  • the extract according to the invention proves itself through several positive properties upon topical application to the skin.
  • it can increase the moisture content of the skin and also smooth and reduce skin wrinkles.
  • a variety of texture parameters of the skin are advantageously influenced through the use of the extract according to the invention, thus resulting in a more even skim color and a generally improved radiance of the skin.
  • the extract according to the invention being an antioxidant, has considerable activity, it can be used as an antioxidative active ingredient.
  • the extract according to the invention is used as antioxidative ingredient in particular as an antioxidative ingredient for reducing skin damage caused by environmental toxins or induced by UV.
  • the extract according to the invention is exceptionally suitable for the use for the preparation of a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulation.
  • the type of formulation used there are no fundamental restrictions with regard to the type of formulation used.
  • the invention thus likewise provides cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations comprising the extract according to the invention.
  • the extract according to the invention can be used in oil phases of oil-based formulations or emulsions, although, in combination with suitable solubilizers, the use in the aqueous phase of water-based formulations or emulsions is also possible.
  • the extract according to the invention can be used, for example, in lotions and creams (e.g., O/W or W/O emulsions), gel formulations, deodorants (e.g., sticks, emulsions, pump sprays, aerosol sprays, roll-on formulations), oil baths, foam baths, shower gels, shampoos, hair conditioners, liquid soaps, wet wipes, lipsticks, foundations, mouth rinses or toothpastes.
  • So-called leave-on applications are particularly suitable, where it is envisaged that the formulation remains on the skin (e.g., lotions, creams, deodorants).
  • the extract according to the invention can be used here either as the sole active ingredient or in combination with further active ingredients.
  • the concentration of the extract according to the invention in the cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulation is not subject to any principle technical limits, although at concentrations above about 5% (depending on the type of formulation), a characteristic odor of the extract is clearly perceptible. Consequently, the extract according to the invention is used in the formulations preferably in concentrations of from 0.01 to 5%, particularly preferably in concentrations of from 0.05 to 1%.
  • the cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations and also the care and cleansing compositions can comprise, for example, at least one additional component selected from the group of:
  • hydrotropes or polyols
  • Emollients that can be used are all cosmetic oils, in particular mono- or diesters of linear and/or branched mono- and/or dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 44 carbon atoms with linear and/or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. It is likewise possible to use the esterification products of aliphatic, difunctional alcohols having 2 to 36 carbon atoms with monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • long-chain acrylic acid esters such as, for example, esters of benzoic acid, e.g., benzoic acid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or else isostearyl benzoate or octyldodecyl benzoate.
  • methyl esters and isopropyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate.
  • Suitable monoesters are, for example, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, and esters which are obtainable from technical-grade aliphatic alcohol cuts and technical-grade, aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures, e.g., esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, as are accessible from animal and vegetable fats.
  • esters which are obtainable from technical-
  • Suitable dicarboxylic acid esters are, for example, di-n-butyl adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl)adipate, di (2-hexyldecyl)succinate, diisotridecyl azelate.
  • Suitable diol esters are, for example, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), butanediol diisostearate, butanediol dicaprylate/caprate and neopentyl-glycol dicaprylate.
  • fatty acid esters which can be used as emollients are, for example, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate.
  • triglycerides i.e., triple esters of glycerol with three acid molecules, of which at least one is relatively long-chain.
  • fatty acid triglycerides such, natural, vegetable oils, e.g., olive oil, sunflower oil, soy oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coco butter, palm oil, but also the liquid fractions of coconut oil or of palm kernel oil, and also animal oils such as, for example, shark liver oil, cod liver oil, whale oil, beef tallow and butter fat, waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba palm wax, spermaceti, lanolin and neatsfoot oil, the liquid fractions of beef tallow or else synthetic triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid mixtures, triglycerides of technical-grade
  • hydrocarbons in particular including liquid paraffins and isoparaffins
  • hydrocarbons can be used.
  • hydrocarbons that can be used are paraffin oil, isohexadecane, polydecene, Vaseline, paraffinun perliquidum, squalane, ceresin.
  • linear or branched fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol
  • fatty alcohol ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • Suitable silicone oils and silicone waxes are, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclomethylsiloxanes, and also aryl- or alkyl- or alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxanes or cyclomethylsiloxanes.
  • suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with branched C 8 -C 18 -alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol or isononanol, esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol or isononanol, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides
  • Emulsifiers or surfactants that can be used are nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.
  • Nonionogenic emulsifiers or surfactants that can be used are compounds from at least one of the following groups:
  • alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;
  • partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids, ricinolic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g., sorbitol) alkyl glycosides (e.g., methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g., cellulose),
  • sugar alcohols e.g., sorbitol alkyl glycosides (e.g., methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g., cellulose)
  • polysiloxane-polyether copolymers such as, for example, PEG/PPG-20/6 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG-12 or PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG/PPC-14/4 or 4/12 or 20/20 or 18/18 or 17/18 or 15/15,
  • polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives such as, for example, lauryl or cetyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (ABIL® EM 90 (Degussa)),
  • citric acid esters such as, for example, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl oleate citrate and dilauryl citrate.
  • Anionic emulsifiers or surfactants can comprise water-solubilizing anionic groups, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphate, sulphonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic radical.
  • anionic groups such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphate, sulphonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic radical.
  • Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to the person skilled in the art in a large number and are commercially available.
  • alkyl sulphates or alkyl phosphates in the form of their alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl sarcosinates, and also sulphosuccinates and acyl glutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts.
  • Cationic emulsifiers and surfactants can also be added.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds in particular those provided with at least one linear and/or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, can be used, such as, for example, alkyltrimethylammonium halides, such as, for example, cetyl-trimethylammonium chloride or bromide or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, but also dialkyldimethylammonium halides, such as, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, can be used.
  • monoalkylamidoquats such as, for example, palmitamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride, or corresponding dialkylamidoquats can be used.
  • biodegradable quaternary ester compounds which may be quaternized fatty acid esters based on mono-, di- or triethanolamine.
  • alkylguanidinium salts can be added as cationic emulsifiers.
  • mild, i.e., particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, mono- and/or dialkyl-sulphosuccinates, fatty acid isethionate, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter for example based on wheat proteins.
  • amphoteric surfactants such as, for example, betaines, amphoacetates or amphopropionates
  • substances such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacyl-aminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxynethylglycinate.
  • ampholytic surfactants it is possible to use those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 /C 18 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 / 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g., CarbopoleTM or SynthaleneTM), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants, such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrowed homologue distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides, and also electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar gu
  • Suitable thickeners for thickening oil phases are all thickeners known to the person skilled in the art.
  • waxes such as hydrogenated castor wax, beeswax or microwax.
  • inorganic thickeners such as silica, alumina or sheet silicates (e.g., hectorite, laponite, saponite).
  • silica, alumina or sheet silicates e.g., hectorite, laponite, saponite.
  • These inorganic oil phase thickeners may be hydrophobically modified.
  • aerosils, sheet silicates and/or metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example zinc stearate.
  • viscosity regulators for aqueous surfactant systems e.g., NaCl
  • low molecular weight nonionic surfactants such as cocoamides DEA/MEA and laureth-3
  • polymeric, high molecular weight, associative, highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate may be present.
  • UV photoprotective filters that can be used are, for example, organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and give off tie absorbed energy again in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g., heat.
  • UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB photoprotective filters to be mentioned are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidenecamphor and derivatives thereof e.g., 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene)camphor
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as, for example 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoate,
  • esters of cinnamic acid such as, for example 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate(octocrylene),
  • esters of salicylic acid such as, for example, 2-elhylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
  • benzophenone such as, for example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid such as, for example, di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate,
  • triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone,
  • propane-1,3-diones such as, for example, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.
  • Suitable water-soluble UVB photoprotective filters are:
  • Suitable typical UVA photoprotective filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, 1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides and/or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminium oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulphate and zinc stearate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, e.g., between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm; They can have a spherical shape, although it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal size or a shape which deviates in some other way from the spherical configuration.
  • a relatively new class of photoprotective filters is micronized organic pigments, such as, for example, 2,2′-methylenebis ⁇ 6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetra-methylbutyl)phenol ⁇ with a particle size of ⁇ 200 nm, which is available, for example, as 50% strength aqueous dispersion.
  • organic pigments such as, for example, 2,2′-methylenebis ⁇ 6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetra-methylbutyl)phenol ⁇ with a particle size of ⁇ 200 nm, which is available, for example, as 50% strength aqueous dispersion.
  • UV photoprotective filters can be found in the overview by P. Finkel in S ⁇ W-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
  • Antioxidants and vitamins that can be used are, for example, superoxide dismutase, tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, dibutylhydroxytoluene and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, and also derivatives thereof (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate), ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, butylated hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, peroxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, perborates, thioglycolates, persulphate salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (TROLOX®), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid, ferulic acid,
  • Hydrotropes that can be used for improving the flow behaviour and the application properties are, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols.
  • Polyols that are suitable here can have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are:
  • Solids that can be used are, for example, iron oxide pigments, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide particles and those specified additionally under “UV protectants”. Furthermore, it is also possible to use particles which lead to special sensory effects, such as, for example, nylon-12, boron nitride, polymer particles, such as, for example, polyacrylate or polymethylacrylate particles or silicone elastomers. Fillers that can be used include starch and starch derivatives such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminium and sodium starch, octenyl succinate, and pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter nor coloring effect, for example Aerosils® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • Fat-soluble film formers that can be used are: e.g. polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, PVP/hexadecane copolymer or PVP/eicosene copolymer.
  • Pearlescence additives that can be used are, for example, glycol distearates or PEG-3 distearate.
  • Suitable deodorant active ingredients are, for example, odor concealers such as the customary perfume constituents, odor absorbers, for example the sheet silicates described in the patent laid-open specification DE 40 09 347, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidelite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc salts of ricinolic acid.
  • odor concealers such as the customary perfume constituents
  • odor absorbers for example the sheet silicates described in the patent laid-open specification DE 40 09 347, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidelite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc salts of ricinolic acid.
  • Antimicrobial agents are likewise suitable for being incorporated.
  • Antimicrobial substances are, for example, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di(4-chlorophenylbiguanido)hexane(chlorhexidine), 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbonilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, trethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate (TEGO® Cosmo P813, Evonik), and also the active agents described in the patent laid-open specifications DE 198 55 934, DE 37 40 186, DE 39 38 140, DE 42 04 321, DE 42 29 707, DE 42 29 737, DE 42 38 081, DE 43 09 372, DE 43 24 219 and EP 666
  • Antiperspirant active ingredients that can be used are astringents, for example basic aluminium chlorides, such as aluminium chlorohydrate (“ACH”) and aluminium zirconium glycine salts (“ZAG”).
  • basic aluminium chlorides such as aluminium chlorohydrate (“ACH”) and aluminium zirconium glycine salts (“ZAG”).
  • Insect repellents that can be used are, for example, N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or Insect Repellent 3535.
  • Self-tanning agents that can be used are, for example, dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose.
  • Preservatives that can be used are, for example, mixtures of single or multiple alkyl paraben esters with phenoxyethanol.
  • the alkyl paraben esters may be methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and/or butyl paraben.
  • phenoxyethanol it is also possible to use other alcohols, such as, for example, benzyl alcohol or ethanol.
  • customary preservative such as, for example, sorbic acid or benzoic acid, salicylic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, chloroacetamide, diazolidinylurea, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butyl-carbamate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, methyl-isothiazoline, chloromethyl isothiazoline, ethylhexylglycerol or caprylyl glycol, can also be used.
  • sorbic acid or benzoic acid salicylic acid
  • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol chloroacetamide
  • diazolidinylurea DMDM hydantoin
  • iodopropynyl butyl-carbamate sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
  • methyl-isothiazoline chloromethyl isothiazoline
  • Conditioners that can be used are, for example, organic quaternary compounds such as cetrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or quaternium-80, or else amine derivatives, such as, for example aminopropyldimethicones or stearamidopropyldimethyl-amines.
  • organic quaternary compounds such as cetrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, palmitamidopropyl
  • Perfumes that can be used are natural or synthetic fragrances or mixtures thereof. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petit grain), fruits (anis, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, ether type, aldehyde type, ketone type, alcohol type and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl-carbonyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the ionones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone
  • the alcohols include acnethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons include primarily the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrances which together produce a pleasant scent note.
  • Essential oils of relatively low volatility which in most cases are used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfumes, e.g., sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Dyes that can be used are the substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as are listed, for example, in the publication “Kosmetician Anlagenrbesch” [Cosmetic Colorants] from the Dyes Commission of the German Research Society, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81 to 106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.
  • Biogenic active ingredients are to be understood as meaning, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, polyphenols, deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, retinol, AHA acids, amino acids, hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, isoflavones, polyglutamic acid, creatine (and creatine derivatives), guanidine (and guanidine derivatives), pseudoceramides, essential oils, peptides, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, phytantriol, idebenone, liquorice extract, glycyrrhizidine, scleroglucan, ⁇ -glucan, santalbic acid and vitamin complexes.
  • plant extracts are horse chestnut extract, camomile extract, rosemary extract, black and red currant extract, birch extract, rosehip extract, algae extracts, green tea extract, aloe extract, ginseng extract, gingko extract, grapefruit extract, calendula extract, camphor, thyme extract, mangosteen extract, cystus extract, Terminalia arjuna extract, oat extract, oregano extract, raspberry extract, strawberry extract, etc.
  • the biogenic active ingredients can also include the so-called barrier lipids, for which, by way of example, ceramides, phytosphingosine and derivatives, sphingosine and derivatives, sphinganine and derivatives, pseudoceramides, phospholipids, lysophospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives, cholesteryl esters, free fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives, squalane, squalene and related substances are mentioned.
  • barrier lipids for which, by way of example, ceramides, phytosphingosine and derivatives, sphingosine and derivatives, sphinganine and derivatives, pseudoceramides, phospholipids, lysophospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives, cholesteryl esters, free fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives, squalane, squalene and related substances are mentioned.
  • the biogenic active ingredients also include antiacne, such as, for example, benzoyl peroxide, phytosphingosine and derivatives, niacinamide hydroxybenzoate, nicotinaldehyde, retinoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid and derivatives, citronellic acid, etc., and anticellulite, such as, for example, xanthine compounds such as caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, carnitine, carnosine, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, phytosphingosines, santalbic acid etc., as are antidandruff agents such as, for example, salicylic acid and derivatives, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulphide, sulphur, ciclopiroxolamine, bifonazole, climbazole, octopirox and actirox etc.
  • antiacne such as, for example, benzoyl peroxide
  • astringents such as, for example, alcohol, aluminium derivatives, gallic acid, pyridoxine salicylate, zinc salts such as, for example, zinc sulphate, acetate, chloride, lactate, zirconium chlorohydrate etc.
  • Bleaches such as kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C and derivatives, hydroquinone, turmeric oil, creatinine, sphingolipids, niacinamide, etc. can likewise be included in the biogenic active ingredients.
  • Care additives that may be present are, for example, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, such as, for example, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, or cationic polymers, such as, for example, polyquaternium-7 or polyglycerol esters.
  • ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters such as, for example, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate
  • cationic polymers such as, for example, polyquaternium-7 or polyglycerol esters.
  • Super fatting agents that can be used are substances such as, for example lanolin and lecithin, and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, where the latter simultaneously serve as foam stabilizers.
  • Solvents that can be used are, for example, aliphatic alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol or 1,3-propanediol, cyclic carbonates, such as ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, esters of mono- or polycarboxylic acids, such as ethyl acetate, ethyl lactate, dimethyl adipate and diethyl adipate, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, glycerol carbonate or water.
  • aliphatic alcohols such as ethanol, propanol or 1,3-propanediol
  • cyclic carbonates such as ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate
  • esters of mono- or polycarboxylic acids such as ethyl acetate, ethyl lactate, dimethyl adipate and diethyl adipate
  • propylene glycol
  • Example 2 illustrates the connection between distillation yield and color of the distilled extract.
  • the procedure was analogous to that in Example 1, except the temperature of the vaporization surface was varied in the range from 90 to 110° C.
  • the results are shown in the table below:
  • Vaporization temperature/° C. 90 100 110 Distillation yield/%: 69 74 37 Color number (Gardner): 3.2 3.4 3.7
  • F2-A F2-B F2-C Glyceryl stearate 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% Stearic acid 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% Stearyl alcohol 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% Decyl cocoate 8.0% 8.0% Ethylhexyl stearate 7.0% 7.0% 7.0% Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% Cetearyl glucoside 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% Glycerol 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% Kathon CG 0.015% 0.015% 0.015% Water 64.235% 63.735% 63.735% Carbomer 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Ethylhexyl stearate 0.8% 0.8% 0.8% NaOH (10%) 0.75% 0.75% 0.75% Polyglutamic acid; hydrolysed 5.0% 5.0% 5.0% sclerotium gum; betaine; urea; potassium lactate Curcuma longa crude extract — 0.5% — Curcuma longa dest. — — 0.5% F3. W/O Lotion with 0.5% Curcum
  • Example 1 a* ⁇ 0.7 ⁇ 2.5 ⁇ 0.8 b* 0.5 5.9 0.8
  • Example 2 a* ⁇ 0.8 ⁇ 3.2 ⁇ 0.9 b* 0.8 7.7 1.1
  • Example 3 a* ⁇ 0.3 ⁇ 2.7 ⁇ 0.5 b* 0.7 7 1
  • the antioxidative effectiveness of the Curcuma longa extract was investigated with the help of the so-called ⁇ -carotene test.
  • ⁇ -carotene test it is ascertained to what extent an antioxidant inhibits the coupled autooxidation of linoleic acid and ⁇ -carotene. This reaction can be monitored photometrically from the carotene degradation.
  • the substance to be investigated was dissolved to give a 5% strength in methanol.
  • 3 mg of ⁇ -carotene, 400 mg of linoleic acid and 4.0 g of Tween 40 were mixed with gentle heating until the ⁇ -carotene had dissolved.
  • 0.2200 g of this mixture was solubilized in 25 ml of warm water (50° C.).
  • 13 ⁇ l of the methanolic solution and 1000 ⁇ m of solubilisate were mixed.
  • As control 13 ⁇ m of methanol were mixed with 1000 ⁇ l of solubilisate.
  • the absorbance of these solutions was measured at one minute intervals at 470 nm and 50° C.
  • the antioxidative activity (AOA) was calculated as percentage inhibition based on the control for the time interval from 20-40 min.
  • the AOA was calculated according to the following formula:
  • AOA 100*( DRc ⁇ DRs )/( DRc )
  • FIG. 1 gives the antioxidative activity of the crude extract and of the distilled extract from Curcuma longa.
  • the following example illustrates the moisturizing properties of the distilled extract, i.e., the ability to increase the moisture content of the skin.
  • the skin moisture was determined using a corneometer.
  • the skin moisture of the “external layer” of the epidermis was determined by a capacity measurement. This principle is based on the fact that water and other substances have different dielectric constant.
  • An appropriately shaped measuring capacitor reacts to the samples introduced into its measuring volume with varying capacity changes which were collected and evaluated completely automatically by the instrument.
  • the active probe coated with special glass was pressed onto the area of skin to be measured and, after one second, the corneometer measurement, i.e., the degree of moisture on the surface of the skin, appeared on the display (www.dermatest.de/de/ueberuns.html).
  • the subjects were divided into two groups.
  • the first group received the test formulation with 0.5% of the distilled extract according to the invention (F4-B), and the second group received the formulation without active ingredient (F4-A).
  • F4-B the test formulation with 0.5% of the distilled extract according to the invention
  • F4-A the formulation without active ingredient
  • These formulations had to be applied twice daily to the inside of the forearm.
  • the skin moisture was measured before the start of application and also after 4 weeks.
  • the difference in the corneometer units relative to the starting value was calculated ( ⁇ CU).
  • the test formulation had the following composition:
  • F4-A F4-B Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 3.0% 3.0% Glyceryl stearate 2.0% 2.0% Stearyl alcohol 1.0% 1.0% C12-25 alkyl benzoate 9.5% 9.5% PPG-3 myristyl ether 9.5% 9.5% Glycerol 3.0% 3.0% Phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, 0.5% 0.5% butyl paraben, propyl paraben, isobutyl paraben Perfume 0.1% 0.1% Curcuma longa Dest. 0% 0.5% Water ad 100.0% ad 100.0% ad 100.0%
  • the characterization of the skin surface was carried out using a special camera, the Visisoscan VC 98 by Courage & Khazaka.
  • This camera had a high-resolution black-white video sensor and a circular UV-A light source for uniform illumination of the skin surface.
  • Special software was then used to calculate various parameters which describe the condition of the skin surface.
  • the surface parameter describes the size of the wavy surface of the skin image relative to the level, flattened plane. The less wrinkled the skin surface, thus the lower the measurement.
  • volume parameter the volume was calculated which would be required to fill the wrinkles with liquid. The more wrinkles present and the deeper these wrinkles, the greater the volume parameter.
  • the software also calculated so-called texture parameters which also refer to color differences between adjacent pixels.
  • An improvement in these parameters signified a more even, more radiant skin image.
  • FIG. 3 gives the improvement in the surface and volume parameters.
  • FIG. 4 shows the percentage change in the texture parameter.

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FR3104947B1 (fr) 2019-12-18 2022-11-25 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Extrait de Curcuma longa sans curcuminoïde, dans les dermatoses inflammatoires
CN114191526A (zh) * 2021-12-10 2022-03-18 佛山市连艺生物科技有限公司 红火炬郁金精油在制备抗紫外光老化药物中的应用
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EP2057995A2 (de) 2009-05-13
EP2057995A3 (de) 2011-03-09
US8420137B2 (en) 2013-04-16
DE102007049612A1 (de) 2009-06-10

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