US1996932A - Shirt and collar - Google Patents

Description

A1311] 9, 1935. s. SCHWARTZ SHIRT AND COLLAR Filed Oct. 3, 1935 llll 541mm Mam? INVENTOR Patented Apr. 9, 1935 a I g I Q UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHIRT AND COLLAR Samuel Schwartz, Albany, N. Y. Application October 3, 1933, Serial No. 691,915

I 3 Claims. (Cl. 139385) My invention relates to a new and improved yarn, thelength of the skein is approximately shirt and collar. 520 yards, and a denier equals .0018'75 ounces.

The invention applies to a shirt having an Hence a No. 105 denier silk would have attached collar and it also applies to a shirt hav- ,5 ing a detached collar. Q9

- One of the objects of my invention is to pro- 105 duce a garment which has the proper balance yards per denier, or between stiffness and softness. 520 Another object of my invention is to provide v m 10 a collar having long life and which is free from 10 wrinkles, by eliminating a stiffening interlining. x 8533 yards per pound, or approximately 42,238

Another object of my invention is to provide yards per pound. Since No. 100 cotton yarn, a combination shirt and collar in which the 001- (single ply) has 84,000 yards per pound, said yarn lar can be bleached to secure a pure white color (two ply) has 42,000 yards per pound, so that the without lessening the strength of the yarn. weight of the yarn and of the fabric later speci- 5 A t Obj of y invention is to provide fied herein, can be stated according to the Ameria garment in which the collar remains soft when can or English system for numbering cotton it is normally starched and in which the collar yarn, or according to the denier system of numwill maintain the desired neat shape. bering silk yarn. At the present time and in 1 .Another object is to provide a garment having weaving a standard type of broadcloth shirt, it is 20 a collar which can be properly tailored, in makcustomary to utilize 150 warp threads per inch, ing the points of the collar. said threads consisting of No. 100 (two ply) cot- Another object of my invention is to produce ton yarn, so that the weight of the warp correa garment having a collar which will fit fiat ponds to 15,750 denier. It is also customary to around the neck and which will have the same use sixty filler threads per inch, said filler threads 25 .color effect or appearance as the shirt. being made of No. 100 (two ply) cotton yarn, so

AI O r Ob of y invention is o provide that the total weight of the shirt fabric correa garment which can be made in a white color sponds to 22,050 denier. Hence the warp would or with all weaves and designs, including colored have 280 yards per pound, and the filler.would designs, and including Barathea weaves. have 700 yards per pound. The weight of the 30 Other objects of my invention will be set forth filler is forty .per cent (40%) of the weight of in the following description and drawing which the warp. illustrates a preferred embodiment thereof, it According to present commercial practice, the being understood that the above general statecollar is generally made from a multiple-ply inment of the objects of my invention is intended terwoven cloth, which does not correspond to 35 to merely generally explain the same and not the cloth which is used for making the shirt. If

to limit it in any manner. the collar is made of multiple-ply interwoven Fig. 1 is a diagrammaticview which illustrates cloth, it is warm and-heavy, and its shade is difthe weaving of the improved fabric. ferent from the shade of the shirt-cloth, even Fig. 2 is'a diagrammatic view illustrating'the if it is attempted to have the collar of the 40 combined shirt and collar. same shade. The multipleeply interwoven cloth According to my invention, the cloth for makwhich is generally used for making such collars ing the shirt and the cloth for making the collar has aweight. which is at least 82,250 denier. are woven in a single piece or ply upon thesame Such a multiple-ply interwoven cloth has two loom; using the same harness the same shuttle, warps, each said warp having 150 threads (No. 45 and I also prefer to use thesame warp in the 60, two ply). per inch. Said multiple cloth. also collar and shirt so that the shirt and the collar has a binder warp which has fifty warp threads are uniform in warp throughout. (No. 60, two ply) per inch. Said multiple cloth While I do not wish to be limited to the details also has a face filler having sixty picks per inch, 5 .given in the following specific example, the same and a back filler having sixty picks per'inch, and '50 serves to generally illustrate the invention: the thread which is used for said filler is No.

The thickness of the yarn is given by reference 60, two ply. to denier, it being understood that No. If the collar is made from the same type of cotton yarn (two ply) corresponds to No. cloth as the shirt, the collar must have aninter- 55 denier. Inthe denier system of numbering silk lining having an approximate denier count of 55 80,000 per inch in order to make the collar stand up. This interlining makes the collar too stiff when it is starched, and the interlining causing the collar to. wrinkle when it is unstarched. Likewise, the interlining makes it impossible to sew a neat collar which is properly shaped around the neck, because the sewing machine must handle a light piece of cloth and a heavy and coarse piece of cloth. In a collar of this type the exterior or face shirt-cloth which has light weight, is strained by the heavy interlining, so that the face cloth wears out around the neck long before the shirt wears out, and the points of the collars are caused to turn up. If a collar is made with the use of the improved fabric disclosed herein, and a lining is used, this lining may be made of ordinary soft material.

According to my invention, the shirt fabric is provided with 150 warp threads per inch, said threads being No. 100 (two ply) cotton yarn, sothat the weight of the warp corresponds to 15,750 denier. I also provide sixty filler threads per inch in the face of the fabric, and sixty filler threads at the back of the fabric, and said filler threads consist of No.80. (one ply) cotton yarn. This corresponds to 7,800 denier. Hence, the weight of the shirt fabric which ismade according to my invention corresponds closely to the weight of the conventional shirt fabric. However, I provide filler threads at the face and at the back of the shirt fabric, and I use thinner filler threads than according to the standard practice, in order to balance the thickness. Hence the improved shirt fabric. has a Warp and a filler in which the weight of the filler is onehalf the weight of the warp. Hence the filler and the warp have substantially the same relative weights as in the standard fabric previously mentioned, but the filler threads are divided into a front series and into a back series.

The collar cloth has the same warp as the shirt cloth, namely 150 warp threads per inch, said warp threads consisting of No. 100 (two ply) cotton yarn. I provide the collar cloth with sixty filler threads per inch at the face of the fabric and at the back of the fabric, and said filler threads are made of No. 50 (two ply) cotton yarn, so that the filler threadscorrespond to 25,200 denier. Hence, in .the improved collar, the weight of the filler exceeds the weight of the warp, since the weight of the filler is eight-fifths of the weight of the warp. The weight of the new collar cloth is therefore 40,950 denier. This collar cloth remains soft, and the collar made from this cloth stands up without the use of interlining material, if the collar is starched or unstarched. The improved collar can be perfectly shaped around the neck, its points do not turn up unduly, and said improved. collar. has a longer life than the shirt.

According to vmy invention, the weave of the shirt fabric and of the collar fabric is identical, both the shirt fabric and the cotton fabric have the same number of filler threads per inch at the face and at the rear, and I provide the extra weight of the collar fabric by using a heavier yarn for the filler threads.

It is therefore possible to weave the shirt fabric and the collar fabric in a single piece upon the same loom, and using the same-harness and general adjustment of the loom. For example, the weaver can first weave sixty yards of shirt fabric, using No. 80 (one ply) filler threads, face and back, and he then changes the shuttle yarn to No. 50, (two ply) and he additionally weaves about one and one-half yards of cloth, which is used as the collar cloth. This piece of cloth can be suitably cut and it provides enough collar cloth for making the shirts which can be cut from said piece of fabric.

The cotton yarn may be mercerized or unmercerized.

Any suitable type of weave may be used in weaving the improved fabric. In particular the invention makes it possible to utilize the commercially desirable Barathea weave which cannot be used in weaving a multiple-ply cloth.

In order to weave the fabric for the collar and shirt, I prefer to use a loom having two beams, so that the warp is separated into, two sections, namely, an upper section and a lower section. For example, and assuming that 10,000 warp threads are utilized in the loom, alternate warp threads can be on different beams, so that Nos. I, 3, 5 and I would be on one beam, and Nos. 2, 4, 6 and 8 would be on the other beam. The

fabric is supplied with filler threads atits-face and back. The Warp which is crossed by the back filler threads has longer warp threads than the warp which is crossed by the face filler threads, so that the back filler threads can be bound to the face of the fabric without straining the warp yarn to the breaking point. Likewise, this feature of my invention makes it possible to use the same weights on both warp beams, in order to properly balance the tension on the warps, since said warps are of unequal length. Since the relatively heavy filler threads which are used in the back of the fabric, are interwoven with the warp threads of the fabric, from a separate beam which contains a separate warp, the improved weave does not affect the appearance of the face of the cloth. I thereby eliminate the undesirable appearance which is caused by the use of binder threads, etc. That is, all the warp threads and all the filler threads are interlaced, so that binder warp threads are eliminated. The drawing indicates a set of four wa threads I, 2, 3, and 4, since it may be assumed that there are four warp threads in each dent, although each dent may hold any desired number of warp threads. The drawing also indicates the face filler threads T- T and the back filler or coarser than at the face of the fabric, so that the front filler threads are crossed by more of the Warp threads than the back filler threads. The improved fabric which is included in the collar or shirt may be designated as a single-ply weft-back woven fabric, having two weft planes. Instead of using the taffeta weave which is specifically illustrated, I may use the satin weave or Barathea weave or vary the weave in any manner.

While I have given a specific example of'the invention, I do not wish to be limited to said example or to the details thereof. However, I wish to point out, as oneof the features of the invention, that the weave of the collar cloth is the same as the weave of the shirt-cloth, and that I provide the extra weight in the collar cloth' by threads at the front and at the back, in order to produce the same surface appearance and color shade in both shirt fabric and collar fabric. In the example given, the body of the shirt and the attached collar, are each made of a single F ply fabric, having a single warp. Although the warp is divided into two sections during the weaving operation, the completed fabric has a single warp which is crossed by the face filler threads and the back filler threads. A collar made from the fabric previously described is sufficiently stiff to maintain its shape without starching. While I prefer to make the collar of a single-ply fabric, in which all the warp threads are interlaced with either front or rear filler.

threads, minor additions could be made to the fabric without departing from the invention.

I have shown a preferred embodiment of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

I claim:

1. A shirt having a body and having a collar attached to said body, said body being made from andsaid collar including a single-ply weft-back woven fabric, said fabric having filler threads in two weft planes and said filler threads being interlaced with the warp threads of said single ply, the surface appearance of said collar being substantially the surface appearance of a singleply fabric, said filler threads comprising a front series located in one of said weft planes and said filler threads comprising a back series which are located in the second of said weft planes, the total weight of said filler threads being at least substantially equal to the total weight of the warp threads per square unit of said single ply fabric.

2. A collar including a weft-back single-ply woven fabric which has two weft planes, said fabric having a front series of filler threads which are located in one of said weft planes, said fabric having a back series of filler threads which are located in the second of said weft planes, the total weight of the filler threads .in said fabric being at least substantially equal to the total weight of the warp threads in said fabric per square unit of said single-ply fabric, said front series and said back series of filler threads. being interlaced with the warp threads of said single ply.

3. A collar including a weft-back single-ply woven fabric which has two weft planes, said fabric having a front series of filler threads which are located in one of said weft planes, said fabric having a back series of filler threads which are located in the second of said weft planes, the total weight of the filler threads in said fabric being greater than the total weight of the warp threads in said fabric per square unit of said single-ply fabric, said front series and said back

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