US1995609A - Slip - Google Patents

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US1995609A
US1995609A US730810A US73081034A US1995609A US 1995609 A US1995609 A US 1995609A US 730810 A US730810 A US 730810A US 73081034 A US73081034 A US 73081034A US 1995609 A US1995609 A US 1995609A
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garment
cut
bias
straight
fabric
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US730810A
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Gelsenheimer Charles
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B9/00Undergarments
    • A41B9/06Undershirts; Chemises

Definitions

  • Figure 2 is a rear view of the flattened-out 5 garments, such as night-gowns, pajamas, etc., slip of Figure 1; and I which are notundergarments in the strict sense Figure 3' is a view of the slip of Figures 1 and of the term. 2 flattened out on its side.
  • the garment selected 10 straight-cut'fabric or bias-cut fabric (fabric out to illustrate the invention consists of a front at an angle of 45 or thereabouts), the entire portion 1, a rear portion 2, two side portions 3 garment being made entirely out of one or the and 4, a yoke or brassiere section consisting of other type of fabric.
  • Each type of fabric has its the two parts 5 and 6, and the shoulder straps 7.
  • a garment made made out of bias-cut fabric i. e. fabric cut at out of bias-cut material conforms better to the an angle of 45 or thereabouts, while both side body without sacrificing comfort, but has a deportions or P811918 3 n 4 are made out of "cided disadvantage in that the garment shifts straight-cut fabric. Both portions or sections and rides (hikes up) on the body. Then again, 5 and 6 of the yoke'or brassiere section are pref- 20 it is a much simpler matter to adjust the length erably also madeout of bias-cut fabric.
  • a straight-cut garment than it is to adjust the use of bias-cut fabric for the major portion of length of a bias-cut garment.
  • a straight-cut garment may be advantages which making the entire garment provided with what is commonly known as an out of bias-cut fabric would give, while the use 25 adjustable hem.
  • Such a hem is made by turning of straight-cut fabric for the side portions elimithe lower margin of the skirt portion backon nates the disadvantag s u u lly t r uted to the the garment and stitching the two layeis touse of bias-cut fabric. In other words, the regether.
  • the primary object of the invention is to prowill be noted that the front portion 1 is in the vide a garment of the foregoing type which will form of a spear with slanting side edges, the embody all the advantages of both straight-cut numeral 8 designating the spearhead, and that 40 and bias-cut garments without their disadvanthe rear portion 2'is also in the form of a spear 40 tages and shortcomings.
  • the spearhead beingde-
  • the invention consists noted by 9.
  • the side points of the spears 8 and in making the entire garment, with the exception 9 are substantially at the level of the waist of of the side portions of bias-cut fabric; the side the garment and contact at the points 10 and 11 portions being made of straight-cut fabric. The where they are joined together.
  • the garshaped portion 12 which fits in between the ment is as comfortable and conforms as well to lower sloping sides of the spearheads; and the the body as a garment fabricated entirely out two sections 5 and 6 of the yoke, which are joined of biascut fabric. together at the lines 13. and 14, having converging 55 the particular garment being made.
  • Bias-cut fabric has a greater stretch than does straight-cut fabric, and it is necessary to make an allowance during the cutting step for this difference in stretch, so that it is properly compensated for during the sewing operation.
  • the preferablev way to accomplish this purpose is to cut the side gores 3 and 4, which are of straight-cut fabric, somewhat longer than the front and rear panels.
  • the difference in length depends upon the size of For the range of sizes 32 to 44 a two-inch difference in length is considered preferable. Obviously, the stretching of the panels and gores during the sewing operation serves to equalize their length.
  • the reference numeral 15 denotes the bottom hem of the garment.
  • the hem may be of the various forms and types known to the art, including the lace bottom hem, and may be made in any of the ways known to the art.
  • the hem is illustrated as being of the adjustable type previously referred to.
  • the various portions of the garment may be joined in any manner such as by sewing with either a plain or a zig-zag stitch machine.
  • the dotted lines in the drawing indicate the stitching.
  • biascut garment and garment made of bias-cut material are used interchangeably to designate a garment in which the material has been set in on the bias.
  • straight-cut garment and garment made of straight-cut material are used interchangeably to designate a garment in which the material has been set in on the straight. Similar terminology is used in the claims.
  • a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said upper or brassire portion and said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of material which has been set in on the straight.
  • a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion being continuous withsaid upper or brassire portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said upper or brassire portion and said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of material which has been set in on the straight.
  • a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of ma terial which has been set in on the straight.

Description

March 9 c. GEISENHEIMER 1,995,609
' SLIP Filed June 15,- 1934 INVENTOR.
CHARLES ENBZYMER ATTORNEYS Patented Mar. 26, 1935 1,995,609
, UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 1,995,609 chimes Geisenhelif: New rum, a. Y. Application June 15, 1934, Serial No. 730,810
4 Claims. (01. 2-73)- This invention relates to womens garments, Referring briefly to the drawing, wherein the and has particular reference to undergarments, invention is shown applied to an undergarment such as slips, petticoats, step-ins, chemises, and such as a slip or petticoatzdrawers (panties) though it is to be understood Figure 1 is a front view of a flattened-out slip;
that the invention is also applicable to other ,Figure 2 is a rear view of the flattened-out 5 garments, such as night-gowns, pajamas, etc., slip of Figure 1; and I which are notundergarments in the strict sense Figure 3' is a view of the slip ofFigures 1 and of the term. 2 flattened out on its side.
Prior to the present invention, the foregoing Referring to the drawing with greater particugarments were generally fabricated of either larity, it will be seen that the garment selected 10 straight-cut'fabric or bias-cut fabric (fabric out to illustrate the invention consists of a front at an angle of 45 or thereabouts), the entire portion 1, a rear portion 2, two side portions 3 garment being made entirely out of one or the and 4, a yoke or brassiere section consisting of other type of fabric. Each type of fabric has its the two parts 5 and 6, and the shoulder straps 7.
advantages and disadvantages when used as a Both the front and rear portions 1 and 2 are 15 garment material. For instance, a garment made made out of bias-cut fabric; i. e. fabric cut at out of bias-cut material conforms better to the an angle of 45 or thereabouts, while both side body without sacrificing comfort, but has a deportions or P811918 3 n 4 are made out of "cided disadvantage in that the garment shifts straight-cut fabric. Both portions or sections and rides (hikes up) on the body. Then again, 5 and 6 of the yoke'or brassiere section are pref- 20 it is a much simpler matter to adjust the length erably also madeout of bias-cut fabric. The of a straight-cut garment than it is to adjust the use of bias-cut fabric for the major portion of length of a bias-cut garment. To provide for the garment imparts to the garment all the such adjustment, a straight-cut garment may be advantages which making the entire garment provided with what is commonly known as an out of bias-cut fabric would give, while the use 25 adjustable hem. Such a hem is made by turning of straight-cut fabric for the side portions elimithe lower margin of the skirt portion backon nates the disadvantag s u u lly t r uted to the the garment and stitching the two layeis touse of bias-cut fabric. In other words, the regether. To shorten the garment it is only necessultant garment has the combined advantages of sary to widen the margin that is turned over, straight-cut and bias-cut garments without their 30 and to lengthen the garment the margin is made disadvantages and drawbacks. narrower. Prior to the present invention, bias- The use of both bias-cut and straight-cut fabcut garments were not provided with such adric in the same garment introduced certain probjustable hems, due to the difficulty of providing lems both in construction and in the method of the garment with a neat appearing hem of unimaking the garment. These problems have been 35 form width. successfully solved in the present invention. It
The primary object of the invention is to prowill be noted that the front portion 1 is in the vide a garment of the foregoing type which will form of a spear with slanting side edges, the embody all the advantages of both straight-cut numeral 8 designating the spearhead, and that 40 and bias-cut garments without their disadvanthe rear portion 2'is also in the form of a spear 40 tages and shortcomings. with slanting side edges, the spearhead beingde- In its broadest aspect, the invention consists noted by 9. The side points of the spears 8 and in making the entire garment, with the exception 9 are substantially at the level of the waist of of the side portions of bias-cut fabric; the side the garment and contact at the points 10 and 11 portions being made of straight-cut fabric. The where they are joined together. The two sides, 45
invention is based upon my discovery that the or gores, 3 and 4 complete the garment below incorporation of straight-cut side panels, or gores, the points 10 and 11 while the yoke or brassiere or sections in a bias-cutgarment entirely elimisection ,5, 6 completes the garment above the hates the shifting and riding (hiking up) points 10 and 11. To this end, each of the side tendency of the garment and renders pomible an panels 3 and 4 has a length equal to the height 50' adjustable bottom hem that will remain straight of the waistline and has an upper triangular= after laundering. Furthermore, that the garshaped portion 12 which fits in between the ment is as comfortable and conforms as well to lower sloping sides of the spearheads; and the the body as a garment fabricated entirely out two sections 5 and 6 of the yoke, which are joined of biascut fabric. together at the lines 13. and 14, having converging 55 the particular garment being made.
lower sides which fit in between the upper sloping sides of the spearhead. It is to be noted that the gores 3 and 4 are cut with sloping side edges.
Bias-cut fabric has a greater stretch than does straight-cut fabric, and it is necessary to make an allowance during the cutting step for this difference in stretch, so that it is properly compensated for during the sewing operation. The preferablev way to accomplish this purpose is to cut the side gores 3 and 4, which are of straight-cut fabric, somewhat longer than the front and rear panels. The difference in length depends upon the size of For the range of sizes 32 to 44 a two-inch difference in length is considered preferable. Obviously, the stretching of the panels and gores during the sewing operation serves to equalize their length.
The reference numeral 15 denotes the bottom hem of the garment. The hem may be of the various forms and types known to the art, including the lace bottom hem, and may be made in any of the ways known to the art. The hem is illustrated as being of the adjustable type previously referred to.
The various portions of the garment may be joined in any manner such as by sewing with either a plain or a zig-zag stitch machine. The dotted lines in the drawing indicate the stitching. In the foregoing specification, the terms biascut garment and garment made of bias-cut material are used interchangeably to designate a garment in which the material has been set in on the bias. Likewise, the terms straight-cut garment and garment made of straight-cut material are used interchangeably to designate a garment in which the material has been set in on the straight. Similar terminology is used in the claims.
The foregoing disclosure embodies the essential and distinctive thought and concept which characterizes my invention, but it is to be understood that the same may be combined with various other concepts and details without affecting the peculiar results obtained, and that changes and modifications may be resorted to without departing from the spirit or the scope of the appended claims, in which I intend to claim all patentable novelty inherent in the invention.
I claim:
1. As an article of manufacture, a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said upper or brassire portion and said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of material which has been set in on the straight.
2. As an article of manufacture, a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion being continuous withsaid upper or brassire portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said upper or brassire portion and said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of material which has been set in on the straight.
3. The garment as defined in claim 1., said brassire portion consisting of two pieces of materlal connected centrally.
4. As an article of manufacture, a garment for women consisting of an upper or brassire portion and a lower or skirt portion, said lower or skirt portion consisting of a front panel, a rear panel and two side panels, said front and rear panels consisting of material which has been set in on the bias and said side panels consisting of ma terial which has been set in on the straight.
CHARLES GEISENHEIMER.
US730810A 1934-06-15 1934-06-15 Slip Expired - Lifetime US1995609A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2434112A (en) * 1946-05-03 1948-01-06 David I Klein Slip
US2574861A (en) * 1946-11-23 1951-11-13 Bank First National Woman's petticoat

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2434112A (en) * 1946-05-03 1948-01-06 David I Klein Slip
US2574861A (en) * 1946-11-23 1951-11-13 Bank First National Woman's petticoat

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