US1810150A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

M. TODES June 16, 1931.

GARMENT Filed Dec 12, 1930 a 0 an.

' IZZH/e/NO/ 5/ otdzeYba'es Patented June 16, 1931 PATENT OFFICE MOLLIE TODES, OF MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN GARMENT Application filed December 12, 1930. Serial No. 501,838.

This invention relates to waistband con-- it is to be understood that the invention is not limited thereto.

his one of the objects of'the present invention to provide a waistband wherein the maj or portion of the stitching is concealed, which waistband may be machine sewed and yet have the appearance of a hand finished custom tailored waistband.

Heretofore, in so far as I am aware, it was always necessary, where a Very neat appearing waistband was desired, to sew the same by hand. Machine sewing was precluded due to the fact that machine sewing was always thought to necessitate a line of stitching on the exposed side of the band. I have discovered that by sewing the various parts of a waistband in a predetermined order the parts may be folded during the sewing operation to permit of machine sewing and, after 2 the parts have been sewed as necessary, may be unfolded to conceal the line of stitching. In the garments of the past the waistband lining was folded in a different order and it therefore became necessary to sew the parts together by hand since the folded material precluded machine sewing where a neat appearing band was desired. By my improved method thev preliminary sewing is done before, rather than after, the final folding of the material, thereby permitting machine stitching.

It is a further object 'of my invention to provide a waistband construction which may be altered to fit a particular wearer and wherein said alterations may be made entirely by machine, eliminating all costly hand sewing operation.

The attainment of the above and further objects of the present invention will be apparent from the following specification taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings forming a part thereof.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is .a fragmentary view showing a portion of a pair of trousers with the waistband partly sewed in place;

Figure 2 is a fragmentary view showing the manner of folding the material preparatory to the next sewing operation;

Figure 3 shows the next step in the sewing of the garment;

Figure 4 is an enlarged view of a portion of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a fragmentary View showing a completed waistband; and

Figure 6 is a fragmentary view of a portion of a modified form of waistband.

Reference may now be, had more particularly to Figure 1 wherein I show a portion 05 of an uncompleted pair of trousers, said view showing the side of the material which is on the inner side of the garment when completed. The rear body forming portions are indicated at 1 and 2 and front body portions are indicated at 3 and 4. The body forming portions 1 and 3 are sewed together along a seam 5 and the body forming portions 2 and 4c are sewed together along a seam 6. The lower sides of the portions 1, 2, 3, and 4 are leg forming portions and in the completed' garment the edge 7 is secured to the edge 8, all in a manner well known in the art. A waistband 10 is sewed to the body portions 1 and 3 along a line of stitching 11 and a waistband 12 is sewed to the body portions 2 and 4 along a line of stitching 13. Each of these waistbands consists of an outer layer of lining 14.- and an inner layer of canvas 15 as is well known in the art, it being understood, however, that the present invention is not limited to the use of such materials for a waistband since the band may be formed of any other materials or of any number of layers without departing from the spirit of the present invention. The two rear body forming portions are sewed together by a row of stitching indicated at 20, leaving a flap 21 of the body portion 1 and a flap 22 of the body portion 2. The line of stitching 20 extends to within about of an inch of the outer edge of the waistband indicated by the line 24. The stitching thus far described is generally machine stitching although it may be hand stitching if desired.

I refer to form the seam between the ends of t e waistband portions 10 and 12 in the following manner: The body portions 1 and 2 are folded back to back so as to expose on the outer sides, the sides of the material that are normally on the inside of the garment. The flap portion 22 is then bent back as indicated in Figure 2 and thereafter the waistband portion 12 is folded down into position as indicated in Figure 2. The portion 25 of the waistband which corresponds to the flap 22 is folded against the flap 22 and beneath the main portion of the waistband 12. This brings all of the waistband 12 to the right of the row of stitching 20 as seen in Figure 2. The waistband portion 10 is then folded over the edge 24 and over the waistband portion 12. This is illustrated in Figure 3. This substantially turns the waistband portion 10 inside out with respect to the body portion 1 of the garment. The end 26 of the waistband portion 10 now lies to the left of the seam 20. The corner of the waistband portion 10 is then turned back at an angle as indicated at 28 and thereafter the portion 26, including the turned back corner 28, is machine stitched to the flap 21 along a line of stitching indicated at 30. This line of stitching is to the left of the line of stitching 20 and does not at all extend through any of the body portion 2. The stitching 30 is preferably located close to the stitching 20, being spaced therefrom about of an inch. The reason for folding the triangular portion 28 upwardly is to place the edge 32, which would otherwise be at the bottom of the band, out of sight in the finished garment. This edge is the edge of the canvas and the lining and is unfinished. If it were to remain visible in the finished garment, then the edge would have to be tailor finished in order to present a neat appearing seam. This edge would be visible as is the edge 33 of the band portion 12 which has not yet been sewed in place. This completes, for the present, the sewing operation on the waistband portion 10. The waistband portion 10 is then folded back into a position corresponding to the position of the band 12 in Figure 3;

The waistband portion 12 is then sewed in place in the same manner as was the waistand portion 10. This is accomplished, after the waistband portion 10 has been folded in place, by folding the flap 21 back against the body portion 1, as is the flap 22 of the body portion 2 in Figure 3, and thereafter folding the waistband portion 12 in the same manner as was previously described in connection with the waistband portion 10. After the waistband portion 12 has been sewed in place in the manner above described, it is turned back into position and thereafter the lower edge of the waistband is sewed in place by means of a row of stitching indicated at 35. This stitching is'preferably machine stitching using two threads of different colors. The thread that appears on the inside of the garment is preferably of the -color of the lining material 14, whereas the thread that appears on the outside of the garment is preferably of the color of the suiting material. The vertical edges of the waistband portions 10 and 12 extend to within about of an inch of one another with the seam 20 extending in the space between these edges. If it is desired to make alterations in the finished garment, such for instance as taking in a portion of the waistband, it is merely necessary to rip the stitching 20 from the top of the waistband downwardly and to rip the portion of the stitching that extends over the flaps 21 and 22. The rear body portions 1 and 2 may then be folded to provide a longer flap thereby reducing the overall circumference of the complete waistband. When this is done the lines of stitching 30 and 35 are moved away from the line of stitching 20. After properly folding the garment as above set forth, a new line of stitching corresponding to the stitching 20 is made. If desired, the new line of stitching may terminate short of the top edge 24 of the garment to provide a V-shaped opening at the top of the trouser back where the joining seam of the two trouser back parts end, as indicated at 40 in Figure 6. This form of construction may also be used in the garment as initially made if desired.

In compliance with the requirements of the patent statutes I have herein shown and described a preferred embodiment of my invention. It is, however, to be understood that the invention is not limited to the precise embodiment herein shown, nor to the precise steps in the method herein described but is capable of modification and variation within the spirit and scope of the appended claims. What I consider new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate body portions joined together along the median line of the garment to leave overlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips on the inside of the garment, one strip extending along the edge of one of the body portions and the other strip extending along the edge of the other body portion, the overlapping flap of each of the body portions being folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the body portion and the edge of the liner being also folded back to extend between the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion, machine stitching joining the corresponding folded back portions and being free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one side by the body portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposed side of the liner strip.

2. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate body portions joined together along the median line'of the garment to leave overlapping flaps, and a waist band liner comprising two strips on the inside of the garment, pne strip extending along the e of one of the body portions and the other strip extending alon the edge of the other body portion, each 0 said strips terminating a short distance from the joining median line, the overlapping flap of each of the body portions being folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the body portionand the edge of the liner being also folded back to extend between the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion, machine stitching joining t e corresponding folded back portions and being free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one side by the body portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposed side of the liner strip.

' 3. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate body portions joined together along the median line of the garment to leave overlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips on the inside of the garment one strip extending along the edge of one of the body portions and the other strip extending along the edge of the other body portion, the overlaping flap of each of the body portions being folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the body portion and the edge of the liner being also folded back to extend between the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion, ma-

chine stitching jo1ning the corresponding folded back portions and being free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one side by the body portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposed side of the liner strip, the lower free corner of the folded back portion ofthe liner strip being bent upward and held in place by the machine stitching.

4. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate body portions joined together along the median line of the garment to leave overlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips on the inside of the garment, one strip extending along the edge of one of the body portions and the other strip extending along the edge of the other body portion, each strip terminating a short distance from the joining median line, the overlapping flap of each of the body portions being folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the body portion and the edge of the liner being also folded back and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion, machine stitching joining the corresponding folded back portions and being free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one side by the body portion of the garment and on the other side to extend between the liner by the exposed side of the liner strip, the lower free corner of the folded back portion of the liner strip being bent upward and held in place by the machine stitching. A

5. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two body forming ortions secured together longitudinally of the garment, which comprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewing the said portions together up to the waistband strips leaving overlapplng flaps, folding the two body portions back to back along their joining seam, folding one of the waistband strips back over the two folded body sections and folding the ed of the second strip out of the way of the rst strip whereby the transverse end of the first strip and the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are in overlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment, and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts together.

6. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two body forming portions secured together longitudinally of the garment, which comprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewing the said portions together up to the waistband strips leaving overlapping flaps, folding the two body portions back to back along their joining seam, folding one of the waist band strips back over the two folded body sections and folding the ed e of the second strip out of the way of the first strip whereby the transverse end of the first strip and the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are in overlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment, and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts to ether, then unfolding the sewed waistban strip and repeating the above mentioned operation for the other strip.

7. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two body forming portions secured together'longitudinally of the garment, which comprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewing the said portions together up to the waistband strips leaving overlapping flaps, folding the two body portions back to back along their joining seam, folding one of the waistband strips back over the two folded body sections and folding the edge of the second'strip out of the way of the first strip whereby the transverse end of the first strip and the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are in overlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment, and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts together, then unfolding the sewed waistband strip and repeating the above mentioned operation for the other strip, then unfolding the body forming portions, folding the free longitudina] end of the waistband strips over the body forming portions, and stitching the free lon 'tudinal edge of the waistband strips to t e body forming portions.

In witness whereof, I hereunto subscribe my name this 6th day of December, 1930.

MOLLIE TODES.

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