US1735457A - Welt shoe and welting therefor - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 12, 1929. I L. H. GILSON 9 3 7 .WELT SHOE AND WELTING THEREFOR Filed June 16, 1928 p INVENTOR B Y M'A TORNE Y Patented Nov. 12, 1929 UNET 1;

LORENZO H. GILSON', OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR'TOQPERLEY E. BAB- IBO'UR, OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, DOING BUSINESS AS BAR-BOUR WELTING COM- PANY, 0F BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS WELT SHOE AND wnnrme THEREFOR Application filed .Tune 16,

This invention relates to the manufacture of welt shoes and to welting therefor specially prepared for sewing a buried or hidden outseam.

Heretofore, in order to bury the outseam in the welt manufacturers have employed the Well known fudge stitch which requires closing the two lips of the slit over the sewed seam. Of late years ornamental welting has gained great popularity. Ornamentation of welting takes various forms in some of which cuttings are made in the exposed surface providing two planes which may be stalned 1n differing colors. An example of one such surface cutting is disclosed in the Lyon United States Patent No. 1,054,225, granted. February 25, 1913, for welting for sewedboots and shoes. Those skilled in the art will recognize thatfif welting, cross cut as illustrated in said Patent No. 1,054,225, is fudge stitched the lips of the slit cannot be laid back evenly, as can be done on plane a surfaced welting, resulting in a rough seam line showing on the surface that mars the finish and isnot acceptable.

A special object of the present invention 1s to provide for a buried stitch in ornamental welts, such as the cross cut type referred to, that will not affect the ornamentation. Accordingly the invention resides in cutting a lip from the exposed face of the Welt, that may be turned or lifted to permit the outseam to be sewed in the flesh beneath it and then laid back over the sewed seam. For perfection in shoemaking the channel, which produces the lip, is cut from the inner margin of the welt outward. This preserves the material advantage of an integral outer edge on the welting. In its broader aspects the invention comprises welting fitted in the novel manner hereinafter described for sewing buried outseams and in the shoe having such a sewed outseam.

The invention will best be understood by reference to the accompanying drawing showing the best form of the invention at present known, in which all the figures are shown in perspective and Figure 1 illustrates a portion of a strip of Goodyear weltingof usual dimensions and 1928. Serial No.' 285,805.

fitted in the usual manner with a groove andv shoe showing a welt, ornamentedby staining and cross cutting, sewed to the outsolein the manner taught by this invention.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing a strip of Goodyear welting 10. having a stitch-receiving groove 11 and a grain bevel 12, is channeled on' its exposed or grain surface. The channel 14 (Fig. 2) is cut from .the inner margin of the welt outward and produces a lip 16 that may be liftedya'sshown by Fig. 3, to expose the flesh 17 beneathit for stitching, cementing or any other required operation; I v The welt of this invention is inseamed'preferablyiwith the channel 14 closed, as illustrated in Fig. 2, and the outsole stitcher is provided with a suitable tool for lifting or turning the lip 16, substantially as illustrated by Fig. 4,operatingin advance of the stitchforming mechanism. Preferably after the outseam 18 has secured the outsole 20 to the welt 10, the fiesh 17 or both theflesh and under side of the lip are cemented and the lip is laid back in the channel as illustrated by Fig. 5. The lip 16 may be lifted from its channel 14 and the channel cemented prior to the outseam sewing operation. 'In this event the outsole stitcher might be provided with atool for laying the lip onthe cemented channel immediately after the joutseam is sewe'd.

The generally used shoemaking processes up to the securement of the outsole, need not be altered in handling this new welting. As

already stated the grain-side-channeled welt ing passes through the Weltguide of the welt sewing. machine like unchanneled Goodyear welting and is secured by an inseam 22 to the upper materials 23 and insole 24. In

v the upper,

Fig. 5 there is shown a welt 25 ornamented by cross cutting and illustrating graphically how the ornamental surface is preserved from distortion by burying the outseam beneath the lip lying in the grain side channel.

It will be observed that by the use of a grain side channel that is cut from the inner margin outward, the outer edge of the welt is not cut into and presents an unbroken sur face for finishing just the same as when the outseam is surface stitched or fudge stitched.

and in addition the exposed face of the welt is left whole and unmarred by cutting because the longitudinal cut, to produce the channel, is so far inward that it is hidden by The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and its preferred embodiment having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is

'1. A welt shoe having a welt inseamed t the upper materialsand insole, and an outsole outsealned to the welt by a stitch buried beneath a lip cut in the grain side of the welt from the inner margin outward to preserve an integral outer edge on the welt.

2. Shoe 'welting having a grain side lip extending longitudinally thereof; the outer edge of said lip being integral with the central stock ofthewelt body and its inner edge being free throughout the length of the welting.

3. Shoe welting-having its grain side partially severed longitudinally to: produce a lip, the free edge of said lip being within the inner edge of the welt body and. the attached edge of said lip being adj acent-the outer edge of the welt body but leavinga substantial integral outer margin. a I V In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

LORENZO GILSON.

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