US2762135A

US2762135A - Shoe welting

Info

Publication number: US2762135A
Application number: US310643A
Authority: US
Inventors: William C Vizard
Original assignee: Barbour Welting Co Inc
Current assignee: Barbour Welting Co Inc
Priority date: 1952-09-20
Filing date: 1952-09-20
Publication date: 1956-09-11
Anticipated expiration: 1973-09-11

Description

Sept' 11, 1956 w. c. VIZARD 2,762,135

SHOE WELTING Filed Sept. 20, 1952 United States Patent O SHOE WELTING William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass., assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application September 20, 1952, Serial No. 310,643

2 Claims. (Cl. 36-78) 'Ihis invention relates to the manufacture of welting, and pertains more particularly to improvements in prewelts and the method of making the same.

The principal purpose of the invention is to produce a welt strip which, by the relatively simple and economical operations characteristic of the manufacture of conventional prewelt shoes may be readily embodied in a shoe having the sturdiness, fit, and dressy appearance of a Goodyear welt shoe. The use of the improved welt eliminates the troublesome operations of Goodyear lasting and Welt beating; and the preferred mode of attachment of the welt to the vamp avoids gaps or separations at the welt seam, for the vamp may be stitched to the base of the welt behind a shoulder of the welt which closely hugs the vamp and hides the seam, in the completed shoe.

These advantages are obtained by providing a welt having a longitudinal shoulder formed by channeling the welt surface and bending up a bead of ange extending along one side of the channel substantially parallel to the outer edge of the welt extension. The relatively short vamp margin of a shoe may thus be stitched to the base of the welt in the channel behind the shoulder, with the edge of said vamp margin preferably abutting a second shoulder of the welt, spaced inwardly from the lirst shoulder at the opposite side of the channel.

These features of the improved welt and its process of manufacture are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a perspective View of a welt strip illustrating the cuttings made to form a channel, an outer bead shoulder and an inner guide shoulder in the upper snrface of the welt;

Fig. 2 is a View similar to Fig. 1 illustrating a further step in the formation of the bead shoulder;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary perspective of the beaded welt of Fig. 2, with a portion of the vamp stitched in the channel of the welt behind the bead shoulder;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing a modified welt; and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary section of a completed shoe made with the welt of Fig. 3, before the last-is removed.

As illustrated in Figs. l to 3, the improved welt is produced from a relatively wide llet 11 which is grooved at 12 and 13, and channeled by

cuts

14 and 15 to form a channel 16 and a exible ap 17 which may be bent up- Wardly at the groove 12 and then downwardly upon itself at the groove 13, to provide the upstanding bead shoulder 18. A triangular ribbon 19 is preferably cut away from the inner surface from the ap extension 20 of the twoply bead, as shown in Fig. 2, to provide an inclined shoulder along the inner side of the bead. The flap extension 2l) of the bead 18 extends to the bottom of the channel 16 an'd is cemented thereto and to the opposed surface of the upturned flap 17, thereby reinforcing the bead 18 and supporting it so that its outer surface 21 is substantially at right angles to the welt extension 22..

4Patented Sept. -11-, 1956 The cut 14 forms a second longitudinal shoulder 23, spaced from and extending substantially parallel to the bead shoulder, along the inner side of the channel 16. The shoulder 23 provides a guide for the edge of a vamp to which the improved welt is stitched as shown in Fig. 3.

Another ribbon or strip 24 is preferably cut away from the upper surface of the welt, along its inner margin, either at the stage of Fig. l (as shown) or at subsequent stage in the formation of the welt. The thickness of the inner margin 25 of the improved welt is thus desirably reduced. The removed

ribbons

19 and 24 may be employed in making other forms of shoe Welting.

The new welting is produced in long strips in accordance with common practice, and may then be cut into sections of such length as to extend around the margin of the Vamp of a shoe. The Welt is attached to the valnp by placing the edge of the lined vamp 26 against the inner shoulder 23 of the welt, and then stitching the vamp margin to the base of the welt by a seam 27, adjacent the bead shoulder 18, so that the vamp hugs the inclined inner surface of the bead, in the completed shoe indicated in Fig. 5.

The prewelted vamp is lasted to an insole 28 by pulling in the welt margin 25 and securing it with cement, staples or tacks (not shown in Fig. 5). When so lasted, the welt will lie substantially parallel to the insole, pro- Viding a flat bottom, after the central cavity is levelled With a suitable bottom filling material 29, for the application of the insole 30. The outsole may then be applied and stitched to the welt by the outseam 31.

in the modified form of welt illustrated in Fig. 4, the bea'd 32 of the welt strip 33 is formed by a single upstanding flap, channeled and turned upwardly from said strip and by a separate wedge-shaped leather strip 34, cemented thereto, to provide a sturdy reinforced bead shoulder. The inner margin of the welt strip is preferably slashed at 35 to afford increased lexibility. Otherwise, the welt strip 33 is made as previously explained in connection with Figs. 1 to 3, and is applied to the vamp as indicated in Fig. 3.

I claim:

1. A shoe welting comprising a laterally extending welt extension, a laterally extending inseam ange and a longitudinally extended, approximately rectangular channel, said channel being disposed in the upper surface of said welting intermediate said welt extension and inseam ange, an upstanding bead disposed along the edge of said channel adjacent said welt extension, and a sharply dened shoulder disposed along the opposite edge of said channel and having its inner face disposed at substantially right angles to the bottom surface of said channel, the top of said shoulder being disposed in a plane below the top of the upstanding bead and providing a gauge for the marginal edge of the upper of a shoe when said welting is incorporated in a shoe.

2. A shoe welting comprising a welt strip having a laterally extending Welt extension along one of its margins, a laterally extending inseam flange along its opposite margin, and an approximately rectangular channel in its upper surface intermediate said flange and extension, an upstanding bead disposed along the edge or" said channel adjacent said welt extension, the face of said bead adjacent said extension disposed at substantially right angles (References on following page) UNITED STATES PATENTS White `uly 11, 1911 Lyon Aug. 6, 1929 Gilson Nov. 12, 1929 Heft Aug. 16, 1932 Goddu Ian. 1, 1935 Valentine Sept. 1, 1936 4 Plummer Oct. 19, 1937 Vizard June 7, 1938 Adams Nov. 15, 1938 Vizard L May 21, 1940 FOREIGN PATENTS France Aug. 13, 1932 Great Britain Mar. 9, 1933