US1708552A - Shoemaking - Google Patents

Description

I I ,708,552 April 9,1929. J. v. POOLE 1 SHOEMAKING Filed Oct. 29, 1926 v QTdOT W56 X 5 Patented Apr. 9, 1929.

untrue STATES harem oFFicE.

JESSE V. POOLE, OF ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSI GNOR T KIERSTEAD-ANDERSON 00., ENG, 0F BRQCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOEMAKING.

Application filed October 2a, 1926. Serial No. 1441951.

This invention relatesto shoe making and more particularly to the manufacture by the McKay method of a shoe which will have the pleasing appearance of a double deck welt 5 shoe with two lines of stitching at different levels on the projectingedge of the sole.

The object of the invention is to produce a novel and improved mock welt shoe of the McKay type built in such a way as to combine with the relatively light and inexpensive Mc- Kay construction the advantages in style and appearance of a double deck welt shoe with its double line of stitching adjacent the edge of the sole.

VVit-h this object in view the various features of the invention consist in the structures, arrangement of parts and method of construction hereinafter described and claimed and together with the advantages to be attained thereby will be readily understood by those skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Fig. I is a cross sectional view of a shoe embodying the various features of the invention; Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the ornamental welt strip or bead which is utilized inthe construction shown in Fig.1. I

- The mock welt McKay shoe illustrated in i the'drawings as the preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises an upper and insole ofordinary design, an outsole on the upper margin of which is a line of stitching, I and a narrow welt strip or bead ornamented on its top surface with a second line of stitching and located in the crease between the upper and the outsole and inside the line of stitching along the margin of the outsole. Thus a double decked margin is obtained having two lines of stitches at different levels and giving the appearance of a double decked welt shoe.

Referring more specifically to the draw- ,ings, the outsole is illustrated as comprising a rubber or composition wearing surface indicated at 4 which is cemented to a leather outsole indicated at 6. A line of stitching 8 such as would ordinarily be used to secure together the two soles'of a double deck shoe extends around the margin of the sole. An upper of ordinary design is indicated at 10, and the insole at 12.

The welt strip or bead illustrated in detail in Fig. 2 comprises a fiat strip of material 14 which isstitched down the middle and then folded over at one side of the scam, the flaps being cemented together so that the stitching indicated at 16 appears on the upper edge or surface of the fold. The chain stitch and heavy thread utilized for this purpose tend to thicken the fold so that it will fit into the crease between the upper and the outsole and form a pronounced ledge or deck adjacent the upper. To avoid unnecessary thickness of the welt strip or bead where it extends between the upper and outsole, and further to insure its proper assembly with the other parts of the shoe, the strip is thinned or skived at the edge of the material so that when folded and cemented the welt or bead in its final form is wedge shaped in appearance and tapers grad ually to the inside.

The parts of the shoe above described are assembled as follows: The welt strip or bead 14 formed as above described is temporarily secured to the outsole with its marginal line of stitches by any convenient means'such as the tacks 18, the cemented edges of the material to the inside and the thicker portion with .its ornamental stitching 16 forming a deck at the side of the upper and just inside the stitching 8 on the outsole. The outsole and bead are then assembled with the insole and upper, and the whole is secured by a seriesof appropriate fastenin 's around the edge of the inside of the shoe. I n the preferred embodiment of the invention a stitch is used for this purpose the thread 20 passing through the insole, upper, bead and outsole in that order to bind the parts firmly together. A filling material 22 may be inserted between the insole and outsole if required to even up the inside surface of the sole.

With the construction above described the pleasing and substantial appearance of a double decked welt shoe including the provision of a well matched double seam, is obtained in a shoe of the McKay type at a comparatively low cost and without sacrificing the lightness and flexibility. in construction which is characteristic of McKay shoes.

By finishing the welt strip or bead with its ornamental stitching before itsassembly into the shoe it is possible to assemble the parts into a finished product with a minimum .of labor and skill, requiring only that the welt be properly placed on the outsole to obtain aperfectly matched double seam.

The present construction also makes possible a considerable saving of materialin that the welt strip or bead is not carried out to the edge of the sole but may be reduced to a minimum'to serve its purpose.

While in the drawings and in the foregoing description the shoe is shown and described as comprising a double or compound outsole and the seam of stitches along the margin thereof serves to unite such parts together as well as to give an ornamental appearance tothe shoe,'it is to be understood that the present invention is not limited thereto but contemplates any suitable form or type of outsole with an exposed seam of stitches on its top surface adjacent its edge.

Nor is the present invention limited to a shoe in which the parts are secured together by a seam of stitches passing through outsole, bead, upper and insole on the inside of the shoe, as any other satisfactory type of fastening device may be employed.

The invention having been described, what is claimed is:

1. The method of making a shoe of the McKay type having the appearance of a double deck welt shoe which comprises stitching a seam around the margin of the outsole similar to that used to secure together the soles of a double deck welt shoe,

forming a welt strip or bead by stitching a strip of welting along its middle and folding the same over along a line adjacent the line of stitching, securing the bead to the sole within the first mentioned seam, with the edges of the bead to the inside and the seam of stitches on the exposed top surface of the bead, and finally securing together the insole, upper, bead and outsole by a series of fastenings inside the shoe passing through said parts.

2. The method of making a shoe of the McKay type having the appearance of a double deck welt shoe which comprises stitching a seam around the margin of the outsole similar to that used to secure togather the two soles of a double deck welt shoe, securing to the outsole within the said seam a welt strip or bead provided with a seam of stitches on its exposed top surface to simulate the seam which attaches the welt to the top sole of a double deck welt shoe, and finally securing together the insole, upper, head and outsole by a series of fastenings passing through the seam.

3. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin the combination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitching on the margin of the outsole, a welt strip or head consisting of a strip of relatively thin sheet material stitched along themiddle and folded over with the edges to the inside to show a second line of stitching above the margin of the sole, fastenin devices passing through the welt strip or bead, and entering the outsole to secure the former to thelatter and-a series of'fastenings inside the shoe securing the upper, insole, bead,

and outsole firmly together.

' 4. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin the combination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitching adjacent the margin of the outsole, a welt strip or bead, a line of stitching on the exposed top surface of the welt to give the effect of a double decked welt shoe, fastoning devices for securing the welt strip or bead to the outsole, and a line of stitching passing through the insole, upper, bead, and outsole for securing together said parts.

5. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin the combination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitching on the margin of the outsole, a narrow welt strip or bead between the aforesaid line of stitching and the upper, a second line of stitching appearing on the bead'to give the effect of a double deck .welt shoe, independent means for securing the bead to the outsole, and a series of fastenings passing through the insole, upper, bead and outsole JESSE V. POOLE.

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