US1539507A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

'May 22;, 1925. 1,539,507

A. H. PRENZEL METHOD OF MAKING sgons Filed Oct; 16, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet. 1

WITNESSES 9 5 I INVENTOR .7 a 4/7fif5/VZEL) A TTORNE YS May 26, 1925. 1,539,507

- A. H. PRENZEL METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed 001:. 16, 1923 2 Sheets-Sheet '2 ATTORNEYS Patented May 26, 1925.

UNITED STATES ADAM I-I. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Application filed October 16, 1923.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ADAM I-I. PRENZEL, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in methods of making shoes and it consists of the steps herein described and claimed.

An object of the invention is to carry out a method of making shoes whereby the upper structure is lasted in upon a slip sole around the heel seat, the remainder of the upper structure being sewn to the sole through a channel which extends therearound and terminates at the heel seat.

A further object of the invention is to carry out a method of making shoes wherein use is made of a molded insole, an upstanding flange which is thus formed in the process of molding extending around the sole from the heel seat and having situated at the base a channel which is cut in the sole portion toward the flange.

A further object of the invention is to produce an insole of the character described through the channel of which both the entire upper structure and a welt strip are sewn to the sole, the inner portion of the inseam or stitches being completely concealed not only for protection but also to present a perfectly smooth surface on the inside of the shoe.

Other objects and advantages will appear in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a perspective view of a completed shoe made in accordance with the method disclosed below.

Figure 2 is a plan view of the stamped insole.

Figure 3 is a perspective View of the in sole after molding and channeling.

Figure 4 is a section on the line l 1 of Figure 3, again illustrating the molded upstanding flange and channel of the insole.

Figure 5 is a perspective view showing how the upper structure is lasted in around the heel seat and how the rest of the upper structure is temporarily fastened to the upstanding flange.

Figure (5 is a perspective view showing how the welt strip, upper structure and sole Serial No. 668,877.

flange are sewn together through the channel beneath the flange.

Figure 7 is a detailed section on the line 7-7 of Figure (3, clearly illust'ating the structure.

Figure 8 is a perspective view showing how the surplus material is trimmed olf above the inseam that holds the welt, upper structure and flange together.

Figure 9 is a detail sectional View illustrating the appearance of the shoe after the trimming operation in Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a detail sectional view on the line 101O of Figure 1 showing how the outseam holds the welt against the outsole, and how the inseam is completely concealed.

The invention herein disclosed embodies the principles of my Patent #1,031,196 granted July 2, 1912 and my application Serial #324,149 filed September 16, 1919 so far as the idea of channeling is concerned. It will become apparent, however, by reading the following description, that a shoe made in accordance with the improved method constitutes a structure quite different from either of the foregoing disclosures, and also makes quite a different application of the channeling. In each of the foregoing instances, the channeling is done on a single sole which constitutes both an' inner and outer sole. According to the improved method, the channeling is done on an insole or second sole and the outsole is not affected.

In each of the foregoing instances the upper structure is sewn in place through the lip of the channel, and the inseam is dis.- cernable on the inside of the shoe. According to the improved method the inseam is stitched through the base of the channel but is not discernable on the inside of the shoe. The first step of the method consists of stamping a sole 1 out of leather or such other material as is intended to be used as an insole.

It is to be observed that the insole is reduced at the heel seat 2, this being by virtue of the fact that the flange 3 is cut short at dwhere the heel seat begins. The periplwral portion of the heel H is removed beginning at the cuts l, thereby resulting in what is herein known as a reduction. The second step of the method consists of moistening and molding the insole. The

step of molding produces the upstanding This flange is the flange shown in Fig. 3.

' to the insole at the molding, where it originally was flat. The third step of the method consists of channeling the insole at 5, thereby producing a lip 6 which later sub stantially covers the channel and thus concoals the inseam. The channel 5 is practically coextensive with the upstanding flange 3. It makes no difference that the channel extends a little beyond the shoulder 4. It is merely a matter of convenience to let the channel extend a little beyond the shoulders thereby making sure of an ample channel to the full extent of the upstanding flange for all of the necessary stitching to hold the upper structure to the sole may occur at the base of and beneath the upstanding flange.

The fourth step of the method may be regarded as consisting of the collective acts of drawing the upper structure over a last and the insole 1, lasting in the upper structure at 7 around the heel seat 2 and tourporarily fastening the remainder of the upper structure at 8 to the upstanding flange 3. The upper structure is composed of the upper leather 9 and canvas lining 10. The upper structure is cutat 11 (Fig. 5) so that the portion thereof around the heel seat may be tacked down as shown, or in other words lasted in. The insole is also temporarily fastened to the last by means of one or two tacks 12. The temporary fastening meansl 81 may consist of metal staples, several stitches of threads, etc. It is important to observe that the temporary fastening means are applied well toward the edge of the flange 3 so as not to interfere with the inseam which is presently applied.

This inseam secures the insole, upper structure and a welt 13 (Fig. 6) permanently. The inseam 14 is app-lied in the channel 5, beneath the lip 6 and under the upstanding flange 3. This is well shown in Figures 6 and 7, and the act of applying the inseam 14 constitutes the fifth step of the method. The inseam 14 is substantially coextensive with the upstanding flange 3 and the channel 5.inasmuch as it begins and ends at the places 11 where the upper structure is lasted over theheel seat. Again, it is important to observe that the inseam 14 secures the welt 13 well toward one edge so that the major portion of the welt remains free.

The sixth step of the method consists of trimming off those portions of the upper structure 9, flange 8 and welt. 13 above the inseam 14. Figure 8 illustrates how close the line of cutting comes to the inseam. Although the line of cutting comes very close, nevertheless it does not. enter the stitches of the inseam. The lip 6 of the channel 5 is shown as standing up in Figures 6 and 7. However, it so happens in manufacturing the shoe that the lip 6 lays down well upon the channel and thus conceals the inseam (that is to say the inner portion) so that it might appear that there is no stitching or inseam at all. Figure 9 illustrates the appearance of the shoe after the completion of the sixth step of the method. Here the last has been turned over so that it occupies a position reverse to that in Figure 8, in other words, the insole 1 is down in Figure 9 whereas in Figure 8 it is up.

The seventh step of the method consists of applying an outsole 15 and stitching it. in place by means of an outseam 16 around the welt 13. Figure 10 well illustrates the function of the lip 6 in protecting thefi'n ner portion of the inseam 14. Were the -construction such that the inner portion of the inseam touched the outsole 15, the occurrenco of any rubbing between the in and outsoles might result in the weakening of the inseam. This is totally prevented by' the concealment and protection of the inseam by the lip 6. In stitching the welt strip 13 down on the outsole 15 that portion of the welt that was formerly next to the aperture 9 is bent out over the inseam 14 and subsequently constitutes the exposed portion of the welt.

In bending the welt strip over as well shown in Figure 10, additional concealment of the inseam 14 occurs. There is little likelihood of moisture getting in between the welt strip 13 and the outsole 15 to damage the inseam 14. The upper structure and insole are therefore firmly held together, and

there is likewise little likelihood of water leaking into the shoe through the joint between the upper structure and sole. It is important to observe that the inseam 14 does not pass through the insole l at the crease where the last 3 is bent into an upstanding position. The channel 5, being on the inside of the sole and somewhat away from the upstanding flange 3, permits the introduction of the inseam 14 well inward of the base of the flange and more nearly through the flat part of the sole itself. Creasing the sole in forming the upstanding flange weakens the fiber to some extent. lVere the line of stitching 14 permitted to pass through the down and out into the position shown in Figure 10, by the application of the outseam 16. The reader can readily imagine the welt 13 being pulled down from the position in Figure 9 to that in Figure 10. The cut off or edge portions will move inwardly in respect to the shoe and so make room or provide sufficient relaxation of the leather to permit the lip 6 to close down completely. If desirable, the in and outsoles may be cemented together. It should have been stated in connection with the description of the step of the method illustrated in Figure 8, that in cutting off the unnecessary material above th inseam l t the temporary fastening means 8 are also removed. The strip that is trimmed off as shown in Figure 8 constitutes Waste and is thrown away.

I claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises the steps of cutting an insole blank to produce a peripheral flange around the sole excepting the heel seat, molding the.

insole so that the flange assumes an upstanding position, channelling the insole substantially coextensive with the upstanding flange, applying an upper structure to the insole, temporarily fastening one portion thereof to the flange and lasting another portion thereof over the insole at the heel seat; running an inseam through the channel and upper structure beneath the flange and simultaneously applying a welt strip outside of the upper structure, trimming off the surplus material above the inseam including the temporary fastening means, straightening the welt strip, and attaching an outsole to the welt strip by means of an outseam.

2. The method of making shoes which comprises the steps of cutting an insole to produce an outstanding flange around the entire sole excepting the heel seat, molding the insole to crease it on a line in continuation of the edge of th heel seat and produce an upstanding flange, channelling the insole substantially coextensively with the upstanding flange, applying an upper structure, temporarily fastening a portion of said structure to the front of the flange and lasting the rear portion thereof over the heel seat in back of the flange and said channel, applying a welt strip outside of the shoe sub stantially coextensive with the flange, running an inseam through the channel beneath the crease through the upper structure and said welt strip to permanently secure all together, trimming ofl' the surplus material above the inseam including said temporary fastening means, applying an outsole and fastening said outsole to the welt strip by means of an outseam.

3. The method of making shoes which comprises the steps of cutting an insole to produce an outstanding flange around the entire sole excepting the heel seat, molding the insole to crease it in continuation of the heel seat and cause the flange to assume an upstanding position, channeling the insole inside of the flange substantially coextensive with said channel leaving a lip, applying an upper structure, said structure being cut adjacent the ends of said flange, lasting said upper structure over the heel seat at one side of the cut portion, temporarily fastening the remaining portion of the upper structure to the upstanding flange, applying a welt strip outside of the shoe below the edge of the flange and upper structure, running an inseam along the channel beneath the lip and crease through the upper structure, and upper portion of the welt strip, trimming off the edges of the flange, upper structure and welt strip above the inseam, straightening out the welt strip so that the lip tends to close the channel and conceal the inner portion of the inseam, applying an outsole and securing said outsole to the welt strip by an outseam.

ADAM H. PRENZEL.

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