US2407352A

US2407352A - Method of making shoes

Info

Publication number: US2407352A
Application number: US615146A
Authority: US
Inventors: Karl A Stritter
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1945-09-08
Filing date: 1945-09-08
Publication date: 1946-09-10
Anticipated expiration: 1963-09-10

Description

Sept. 10, 1946. K. A. STRITTER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Fi led Sept. 8, 1945 a Sheets-Sheet J Sept. 10, 1946. K. A. STRITTER 2,407,352

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Sept 8, 1945 I 5' Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.9 F1 10 F1 11 IIIIIIIIIllI p 1-946. K. A. STRITTER 2,407,352

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Sept. 8, 1945 s Sheets-Sheet s x In. IIIIIIIIIII-it v I, l ill/1,11% J6 jnv enior Patented Sept. 10, 1946 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Karl A. Stritter, Nahant, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application September 8, 1945, Serial No. 615,146

17 Claims. 1

This invention relates to shoes and the manufacture thereof and is particularly concerned with so-called slip-lasted platform shoes and methods of making such shoes.

An important object of the invention is to provide an improvedrnethod of making slip-lasted platform shoes the practice of which is simple, convenient and economical, and which will provide platform shoes whose strength, shape and wearing qualities are equal, if not superior, to shoes of that type produced by other methods.

To this end the invention provides, in accordance with one of itsaspects, an improved method of makingplatform shoes which consists in securing an upper, a relatively wide edge covering strip or wrapper, and a thin flexible insole member or sock lining together While off a last with their margins in superimposed relation and with the upper and insole member positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip, the lower edges of the upper and strip being preferably substantially flush with the edge of the insole member.

As herein illustrated, the parts are secured together in the position referred to while off a last by stitches extending around the periphery of the insole member and located close to the adjacent edges of the upper, covering strip and insole member, The upper is then turned right side out and a last is inserted therein, thereby slip-lasting the shoe and shaping the upper, The turning of the upper right side out locates the insole member right side out and positions the stitches on the inner side of the upper, thereby concealing the stitches and any bunch that maybe formed by the united layers of material adjacent to the seam. It also locates the covering strip so that it extends outwardly from between the upper and insole member on the outside of the shoe in position to cover the edgepo-rtion of a platform sole. A platform sole is secured to the shoe bottom-and the coverin strip is then wrapped downwardly around the edge portion of the sole and inwardly beneath its outer orbottom surface to which surface the margin of the strip is secured, preferably by cement. An outsole is attached to the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip to complete the construction of the shoe.

In accordance with another aspect of the invention, as herein illustrated, the method consists in securing an upper and a flexible insole member together off a last with a welt instead of an edge covering strip, the welt being narrower than the covering strip and being preferably composed of somewhat stiffer and thicker material such, for

example, as leather, fiber, plastic material or the like. The parts are secured together with their marginal portions in superimposed relation by stitches, 'as explained above, with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the welt. The upper is turned right side out thereby locating the stitches inside the shoe and causing the welt to extend outwardly from between the upper and insole member. A platform sole is laid on the shoe bottom and secured thereto, the platform sole in this construction preferably being relatively thin or of the type commonly known as a wafer platform sole. The Welt is wrapped around the'edge portion of the wafer platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface and is secured to said surface .by cement or other means, after which an outsole is permanently attached to the inwardly extending portion of the welt, preferably by cement. The outsole in this construction is approximately as thick as the wafer platform sole. The invention also provides, in accordance with another aspect, an improved method of making a slip-lasted platform shoe in which the platform sole is a thin wafer-type sole but is provided with a substantial marginal extension that projects laterally beyond the edges of the last bottom and insole member. The welt or strip in this construction covers the extension edge of the platform sole and extends inwardly beneath its bottom surface. .An outsole is attached to the inwardly extending portion of the welt, the outsole being of sufficient size to cause its edge face to be positioned in substantial alinement or flush with the covered edge of the extension on the wafer platform solo. The outsole is permanently attached to the welt or strip preferably by cement but, in a modification of the construction, an extension edge platform shoe may be provided, as described above, but in which the outsole is attached to the shoe bottom by through-andthrough stitches instead of cement, the stitches passing through the welt or strip, the platform sole and the outsole. As herein illustrated, the

sole-attaching stitches in this latter type of platform shoe are preferably located approximately in the central portion of the extension edge on the platform sole. The outsole is at least as thick as the platform sole or it may, if desired, be somewhat thicker than the platform sole, It is of sufficient size to cause its edge face to be substantially flush with the covered edge face of the marginal extension on the platform sole.

With the above and other features and aspects in View, the invention will now be described in 3 connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a sectional view of an upper, an edge covering strip or wrapper, and a flexible insole member stitched together with their marginal portions in superimposed relation while off a last and with the upper and insole member positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view of the parts after the seam has been rolled or rubbed down;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the united .par-ts after the upper has been turned right side out;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view of the shoe after it has been slip-lasted by inserting a last into the up- Fig. 5 is a sectional view showing a platform sole secured to the flexible insole member;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view showing the edge covering strip wrapped around the edge portion of the platform sole and turned inwardly beneath its bottom surface and secured thereto;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view showing an outsole attached to the shoe bottom to complete the shoe;

Fig. 8 is a side elevation of the completed shoe illustrated in Fig. 7 provided with a conventional type heel;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 6, but in which the platform sole has a marginal extension;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view showing an outsole attached to the shoe of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 10, but in which the outsole is secured to the shoe by through-and-through stitches;

Fig. 12 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 4, but

in which an insole of substantially normal thickness was mounted on the last before it was inserted into the upper;

Fig. 13 is a sectional view illustrating the shoe of Fig. 12 after a-platform sole and an outsole have been permanently attached thereto;

Fig. 14 is a sectional View, similar to Fig. 13, but in which the outsole is attached by throughand-through stitches instead of by cement;

Fig. 15 is a side elevation of the completed shoe illustrated in Fig. 13 provided with a wedge heel;

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary sectional view of an upper, a welt and a flexible insole member stitched together with their marginal portions in superimposed relation while off a last and with the upper and insole member positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the welt;

Fig. 17 is a sectional view showing the upper of Fig. 16 turned right side out with a. last inserted therein;

Fig. 18 is a sectional view of the shoe after it has been completed by the attachment of a platform sole and an outsole, the platform sole being a thin or wafer type sole;

Fig. 19 is a sectional view in which the platform sole has a substantial marginal extension; Fig. 20 is a sectional view in which the outsole is attached to the marginal extension of the platform sole by through-and-through stitches, and

Fig. 21 is a sectional view in which the platform sole is omitted and the welt is turned inwardly to form a bead between the upper and the outsole.

In practicing the method of making platform shoes in accordance with the present invention, an upper 30, a relatively wide edge covering strip 4 or wrapper 32, and a thin flexible insole member or sock lining 34 are secured together while off a last with their marginal portions in superimposed relation, as illustrated in Fig. 1, the parts being secured together by stitches 36 located relatively close to the edges of the parts and the upper and insole member being positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip 32 with their outer surfaces engaging the strip. The parts are positioned, as shown in Fig. 1, with their edges in substantial alinement with each other or, in other words, so that the lower edges of the upper and edge covering strip are substantially flush with the ed e of the insole member.

After the parts have been stitched together around the periphery of the insole member 36, the seam 3B is preferably rolled or rubbed down, as illustrated in Fig. 2, to reduce the bunch formed by the edge portions of the materials which extend beyond the stitches. The upper is next turned right side out, as shown in Fig. 3, thereby locating the seam 36 on the inner side of the upper and causing the covering strip 32 to extend outwardly from between the upper and the flexible insole member 34, the member 34, of course, having also been positioned right side out when the upper was turned. A last 38 is inserted into the pocket formed by the united upper and insole member, as shown in Fig. 4, thereby sliplasting the shoe and shaping the upper to the last. A platform sole 40 (Fig. 5) of relatively thick yielding material, such as felt, cork or similar yielding material, iS attached to the outer surface of the insole member 34, preferably by cement. After the attachment of the platform sole, the edge covering strip or wrapper 32 is wrapped downwardly around the edge portion of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, as illustrated in Fig. 6, and is permanently secured to said bottom surface by cement or similar means. The inturned portion of the covering strip is roughened lightly and a sole-attaching cement such, for example, as pyroxylin, is applied to the roughened portion of the strip after which an outsole 42 is cementattached to theinturned portion of the strip, as illustrated in Fig. 7, to complete the construction of the shoe. Fig. 8 shows the completed platform shoe of Fig. '7 provided with a conventional type heel such, for example, as a Cuban heel 44.

The shoe of Fig. '7 has a close edge sole portion in which the outer surface of the edge covering strip 32 and the edge face of the outsole 52 are substantially flush with each other and are located in substantial alinement with the lower or widest portion of the upper 30. Fig. 9 illustrates amodification of the construction in which the platform sole to is provided with a substantial edge or marginal extension 46 which extends a considerable distance laterally beyond the edges of the flexible insole and last bottom,

the covering strip 32 in'this construction being wrapped around the marginal extension and being turned inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole and secured to said bottom'surface, preferably by cement, thereby covering the marginal extension 46. The outsole 42 is attached, as illustrated in Fig. 10, with the edge face of the outsole located substantially flush with the covered edge of the marginal extension 45. The outsole is preferably attached to the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip by cement although it could, if desired, be attached to the shoe by through-and-through stitches 48, as illustrated in Fig. 11, the stitches preferably being located at about the center of the marginal extension 46 and passing through the covering strip, the marginal extension, and the marginal portion of the outsole. As indicated above, the outsole is made large enough in this type of shoe so that its edge face is located substantially flush with the covered edge face of the extension-edge platform sole.

Figs. 12 to 15, inclusive, illustrate still another form of platform shoe in which an insole 59 of substantially normal thickness and preferably composed of relatively firm material, such as leather, fiber or the like, is mounted on the last 38 before the latter is inserted into the upper to slip-last the shoe. As shown in Fig. 12, the upperiil, covering strip 32, and flexible insole 34 are secured together while off a last by stitches 35; as described above, with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip. The upper is turned right side out and the last, with the normal insole 58 mounted thereon, is inserted into the upper to slip-last the shoe. The outer or exposed surface of the insole 56 has an adhesive thereon, the adhesive preferably being of the slow-drying type which is active or tacky when the last is inserted into the upper. The adhesive may if desired, however, be a pressure-responsive cement which is normally nontacky but will stick upon the application of pressure to'the shoe bottom. The normal insole 55! will become permanently attached to the flexible insole 35 when the adhesive sets or dries, or, in the case of pressureresponsive cement, when sufficient pressure is applied to the shoe bottom, thereby causing the insole 5D to remain permanently in the shoe. The normal insole 58 is usually mounted on the last bottom and held in position thereon manually while the last is being inserted into the upper. If more convenient, however, the normal insole could be temporarily secured to the last bottom by tacks or other fastening means which could be readily removed through small slits or openings in the flexible insole 34 before the platform sole is laid on the shoe bottom.

The platform sole 49 is now'laid on the outer surface of the flexible insole member 34 and is secured thereto, preferably by cement, as illustrated in Fig. 13. is wrapped downwardly around the edge portion of the platform sole and turned inwardly beneath its bottom surface and is secured to said bottom surface preferably by cement. The outsole 42 is attached to the inturned portion of the covering strip, as illustrated in Fig. 13, the attachment preferably being effected by cement although other fastening means could be used if desired. For example, the last 38 could be withdrawn from the shoe after the cement on the normal insole 58 has set and the outsole 42 could be attached to the shoe bottom by throughand-through stitches 5!, as shown in 14, the stitches passing through the outsole, wrapper strip, platform sole, flexible insole and the normal insole 59. Fig. illustrates the completed shoe which is of the open toe construction and is provided with a wedge heel 52, instead of a conventional heel as the shoe in Fig. 8. The normal insole 50 will be covered at its edge portion by the covering strip 32, as shown in Figs. 13 and 14, so that only its inner or foot-engaging surface will be exposed in the shoe,-this surface usually being covered in the finished shoe The edge covering strip 32 by a slip sole or similar member (not shown) cemented thereto.

Referring to Figs. 16 to 20 inclusive, the illustrated invention also provides, in accordance with another of its aspects, an improved method of making slip-lasted platform shoes in which the relatively wide edge covering strip 32 of the previous constructions is replaced by a somewhat narrower strip or welt 58 preferably composed of leather, artificial leather, plastic material or the like and which may be somewhat thicker and stiffer than the edge covering strip 32. As'illu'strated in Fig. 16, an upper 54, a flexible insole member or sock lining 56 and the welt 58 are secured together with their margins in superimposed relation by stitches 60 located relatively close to the edges of the parts, these edges, as described above, preferably being substantially flush with each other. The upper and flexible insole are positioned inside out with their outer surfaces engaging the opposite sides of th welt. The seam 60 is preferably rolled or rubbed down to reduce any bulge or bunch formed where the three layers of material are stitched together and the upper is then turned right side out and a last 62 inserted into the upper to slip-last the shoe, as shown in Fig. 17. A platform sole 64 of relatively yielding material is attached to the outer surface of the flexible insole 56, the platform sole being relatively thin, for example, as herein illustrated, being only a little thicker than the flexible insole, this type of sole being commonly referred to as a wafer type platform sole. The welt or strip 58 is wrapped downwardly and inwardly around the edge portion of the platform sole and is secured to the outer or bottom surface of the sole preferably by cement, as explained above, after which an outsole 66 is permanently attached to the inturned portion of the welt, the edge face of the outsole being substantially flush with the outer or exposed surface of the welt.

The shoe illustrated in Fig. 18 is of the close edge sole type in which the outer surface of the welt and the edge face of the outsole are in substantial alinement with the lower or widest portion of the upper. However, if an extension edge platform shoe is desired, the construction illustrated in Fig. 19 may be utilized in which the wafer type platform sole 64 has a substantial marginal extension 68 thereon projecting laterally beyond the edges of the flexible insole member and last bottom. The welt or strip 58 is Wrapped around the marginal extension 63 of the platform sole, as illustrated in Fig. 19, and is turned inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the sole and permanently secured to said surface. An outsole 66 is then attached to the inturned portion ofthe welt or strip 58 for example, by cement, the outsole being large enough to correspond in size to the extension edge platform sole covered by the welt 58 so that the edge face of the outsole is substantially flush with the outer surface of the welt.

Instead of attaching the outsole 65 to the shoe bottom by cement, as illustrated in Fig. 19, the wafer type platform sole 64 with its marginal extension 68 may be secured to the flexible insole 56 by cement, as described above, and the welt 58 Wrapped around the marginal extension in the manner illustrated in Figs. 19 and 26. The outsole- 66 may then be laid on the platform sole and permanently attached to the shoe bottom by through-and-through stitches Hi, as shown in Fig. 20, the stitches passingthrough the marginal extension 68 of the platform sole, the welt or strip 58 covering said extension, and the marginal portion of the outsole 66, thestitches preferably being located approximately at the central portion of the extension 58.

As still another modification of the construction disclosed herein, Fig. 21 illustrates a shoe in which a platform sole in the usual sense is omitted altogether and the welt or strip 58 is turned over and wiped inwardly beneath the outer or bottom surface of the thin flexible insole or sock lining 56, the inwardly extending portion of the welt being secured to the shoe bottom, for example, by cement. The turned-over portion of the welt. thus forms a bead between the upper and the outsole around the periphery of the shoe bottom, the outsole 66 being attached to the lower surface of the inturned portion of the welt, preferably by cement. In order to insure that the bead will be positioned uniformly around the periphery of the shoe bottom, that is, will extend laterally a uniform distance from between the upper and the outsole, a thin sole-shaped member 59 of relatively stiff material such as cardboard, fiber or the like may be employed, if desired, to provide a fixed edge or corner for the welt to be turned upon and thereby cause the bead to'be' located uniformly around the shoe bottom, the sole-shaped member 59, as herein illustrated, being preferably secured by cement or other means to the flexible insole before the welt is turned. Since the bead produced by the welt 58, as herein illustrated, projects outwardly a short distance beyond the lower or widest portion of the upper to provide a medium extension edge aroundthe sole portion of the shoe, the outsole 66 may, if desired, be attached to the welt or strip by through-and-through stitches instead of cement. Moreover, the shoes illustrated in Figs. 17 to 21, inclusive, could, of course, be provided with insoles of substantially normal thickness and composed of relatively firm material, such as leather, fiber or the like, merely by mounting such insole on the last 62 before the latter is inserted into the upper to slip-last the shoe, as already described in connection with the shoes illustrated in Figs. 12 to 15, inclusive.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by. Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in method of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and an insole member together off a last with their margins in superimposed relation and with the upper wrong side out, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, securing a platform sole to the insole member, wrapping the covering strip around the edge of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the covering s up 2. The improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together while off a last with their marginal portions in superimposed relation by means of stitches located adjacent to the edges of said parts, the upper being positioned inner side out during the stitching operation, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, securing a platform sole to the flexible insole, wrapping the covering strip over the edge portion of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, securing the covering strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip.

3. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing the edge portions of an upper, a platform edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together in superimposed relation while off a last by means of stitches located close to the edge of the upper and passing through the upper, covering strip and insole, the upper and insole being located Wrong side out during the stitching operation and the edges of the upper and covering strip being substantially flush with the edge of the insole, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last into the Docket formed by the upper and insole thereby slip-lasting the shoe, securing a platform sole of relatively yielding material to the outer surface of the insole, wrapping the covering strip around the edge face of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, securing the strip in such position, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip.

4:. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together while off a last with their marginal portions located in superimposed relation to each other by through-and-through stitches with the upper and insole turned inside out and with the adjacent edges of the parts substantially flush, the stitches being located close to said adjacent edges, rubbing down the portions of said parts projecting beyond the stitches, turning the united upper and insole right side out thereby positioning the stitches on the inner side of the upper and the covering strip on its outer side, inserting a last into the upper, securing a platform sole to the outer surface of the flexible insole, wrapping the covering strip around the edge portion of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip.

5. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible in sole together while off a last with the margins of said parts in superimposed relation to each other by a single row of through-and-through stitches located adjacent to the lower edge of the upper, the upper and insole being positioned Wrong side out during the stitching operation and the lower edges of the upper and covering strip being located in substantial alinement with the edge of the insole, turning the united parts right side out and inserting a last into the pocket formed by the united upper and insole, thereby locating the stitches inside the upper and causing the covering strip to extend outwardly from between the upper and flexible insole, laying a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material upon the outer surface of the insole and securing it thereto by cement, wrapping the covering strip around the edge portion of the platform sole and turning its marginal portion inwardly beneath the bottom surface of said sole, securing said marginal portion to said bottom surface, and permanently attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip.

6. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in positioning the marginal portions of an upper and a thin flexible insole while off a last in face-to-face relation against the opposite sides of the margin of an edge covering strip, securing the parts together in such position by means of through-andthrough stitches which extend around the periphery of the insole, the lower edges of the upper and covering strip being substantiall flush with the edge of the insole and the upper and insole being positioned wrong side out with their outer surfaces engaging the covering strip, turning the upper right side out ther by positioning the stitches inside the upper with the covering strip projecting outwardly from between the upper and insole, inserting a last into the'upper thereby slip-lasting the shoe, securing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material to the outer surface of the insole, wrapping the covering strip downwardly around the edge face of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface and securing the strip to said bottom surfaceby cement, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip.

7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together off a last with their margins in superimposed relation to each other and with the adjacent edges of the parts substantially flush, the upper and insole being positioned wrong side out, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, attaching a platform sole provided with a marginal extension to the insole, said marginal extension projecting laterally beyond the edge of the insole, wrapping the covering strip around said marginal extension and turning it inwardly beneath the bottom surface of the platform sole, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip, the edge of the outsole being substantially flush with the portionof said strip which covers the edge face of said marginal extension,

8. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing the marginal portions of an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together in superimposed relation oif a last by through-andthrough stitches located close to the lower edge of the upper with the edges of the upper and covering strip substantially flush with the edge of the insole and with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out with their outer surfaces engaging opposite sides of the covering strip, turning the upper right side out thereby positioning the stitche on the inner side of the upper and causing the covering strip to project outwardly from between the upper and insole, inserting a last into the upper thereby slip-lasting the shoe, attachin an extension-edge platform sole of relatively yielding material to the outer surface of the insole, the extension edge portion of the platform sole extending laterally beyond the edge of the insole, wrapping the outwardly projecting portion of the covering strip around the extension edge portion of the platform sole and turning it inwardly beneath the bottom surface of said sole and securing it to said surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip, said outsole corresponding in size to the platform sole plus the thickness of the covering strip wrapped around the edge portion of said sole.

9. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing the marginal portions of an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together off a last in face-to-face relation by through-and-through stitches with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out on opposite sides of the covering strip and with the adjacent edges ofthe covering strip andinsole in substantial alinement with the lower edge of the upper, turning'the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, attaching an extension-edge platform sole to the insole, the edge portion of the sole extending laterally beyond the edges of the insole and last bottom, wrapping the covering strip around the extension-edgeportion of the platform sole and securing it to the bottom surface of said sole, and attaching an outsole to the platform sole by stitches which pass through the margin of the outsole and the extension edge portion of the platformsole;

l0. That'improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper,- an edge covering strip and a thin flexible sole member'together while off a last with their marginal portions in superimposed relation by stitches located close to the edges of said parts, the upper being positioned wrong side out and the edges of the parts being substantially flush with each other, turning the upper right side out thereby positioning the stitches inside the upper, inserting a last into the upper, said last having an insole of substantially normal thickness mounted thereon, securing a platform sole tothe outer surface of'the flexible sole member, wrapping the covering strip around the edge portion of the platform sole and securing it to the bottom surface thereof, attaching an outsole to the shoe, and withdrawing the last from the shoe while leaving the normal insole inside the shoe.

11. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in stitching the margins of an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together in superimposed relation to each other off a last with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip and with the adjacent edges of the insole and covering strip substantially flush with the lower edge of the upper, turning the upper right side out thereby positioning the stitches inside the upper, inserting a last into the upper having an insole of relatively firm material and normal thickness mounted on its bottom surface, securing a platform sole of relatively yielding material to the outer surface of the thin flexible insole, wrapping the covering strip around the edge face of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface, securing the strip to said bottom surface, attaching an outsole to the portion of the covering strip secured to said bottom surface, and securing the insole of normal thicknesspermanently inside the shoe.

12. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in stitching the marginal portions of an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible sole member together off a last with the upper and sole member positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip, the lower edges of the upper and covering strip being substantially flush with the edge of the sole member, turning the upper right side out thereby positioning the sole member right side out and locating the stitches inside the upper, inserting a last into the upper, said last having an insole of substantially normal thickness mounted thereon, said insole having adhesive on its exposed surface, securing a platform sole of relatively yielding material to the outer surface of the flexible sole member, wrapping the covering strip around the edge face of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface and securing the strip to said bottom surface by cement, attachin an outsole to the platform sole and the inwardlv extending portion of the covering strip. and withdrawing the last from the shoe, the adhesive on the normal insole causing it to stick to the thin flexible insole and remain in the shoe when t e last is withdrawn.

13. That improvement in. methods of making platform shoes which consists in stitching the marginal portions of an upper. an ed e covering strip and a thin flexible insole together off a last with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out against opposite sides of the covering strip and with the lower edges of the upper and covering strip substantially flush with the edge of the insole, turning the upper right side out thereby positioning the stitches inside the upper, inserting a last into the upper having an insole of relatively firm material and normal thickness mounted on its bottom surface, securing a platform sole of relatively yielding material to the outer surface of, the thin flexible insole, wrapping the covering strip around the edge of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface and securing the strip to said bottom surface, laying an outsole upon the outer surface of the platform sole and the inwardly extending portion of the covering strip, removing the last from the shoe, and permanently attaching the outsole to the shoe bottom by stitches which pass through the outsole, the covering strip, the platform sole, the flexible insole and the normal insole.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in securing an upper, a welt and a thin flexible insole together off a last with their marginal portions in superimposed relation and with the upper and insole located wrong side out at opposite sides of the welt, the lower edges of the upper and welt being substantially flush with the edge of the insole, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, applying a platform sole of relatively thin yielding material to the outer surface of the insole, said platform sole being only slightly thicker than the flexible insole, wrapping the welt around the edge portion of the platform sole and turning its margin inwardly beneath the bottom surface of said sole and securing it to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned margin of the welt, said outsole being at least as thick as the platform sole.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in stitching the marginal portions of an upper, a welt, and a thin flexible insole together in superimposed relation off a last with the upper and insole located wrong side out at opposite sides of the welt and with the edges of the parts substantially flush, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, securing a platform sole of relatively thin yielding material to the outer surface of the insole by cement, said platform sole being only about twice as thick as the flexible insole, wrapping the welt around the edge of the platform sole and inwardly beneath its bottom surface and securing the welt to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the welt, the edge portion of said outsole being only a little thinner than the edge portion of the platform sole covered by the welt.

16. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in securing an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible sole member together off a last with their marginal portions in superimposed relation and with the adjacent edges of the parts substantially fiusl the upper and sole member being positioned Wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, securing a wafer-type platform sole of relatively thin material to the outer surface of the sole member, said platform sole being only a small amount thicker than the flexible sole member and having its edge portion extending 1aterally beyond the edges of the sole member, wrapping the covering strip around the laterally extending edge portion of the platform sole and turning it inwardly beneath the bottom surface thereof, securing the strip to said bottom surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip, the edge face of said outsole being substantially flush with the covered edge face of the platform sole.

17; That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in stitching the marginal portions of an upper, an edge covering strip and a thin flexible insole together in superimposed relation off a last with the edges of the parts substantially flush and with the upper and insole positioned wrong side out at opposite sides of the covering strip, turning the upper right side out and inserting a last therein, thereby locating the stitches inside the upper, securing a platform sole of relatively thin yielding material to the outer surface of the flexible insole, said platform sole being only slightly thicker than the flexible insole and having its edge portion extending laterally a substantial distance beyond the edges of the insole and last bottom, wrapping the covering strip around the laterally extending edge portion of the platform sole and turning it inwardly against the bottom surface of the sole, securing the strip to said bottom surface by cement, and attaching an outsole to the shoe by stitches which pass through the margin of the outsole, the laterally extending edge portion of the platform sole, and the portions of the covering strip wrapped around said edge portion.

KARL A. STRITTER.