US2135170A

US2135170A - Shoe and method of making the same

Info

Publication number: US2135170A
Application number: US106304A
Authority: US
Inventors: Cavanagh James
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1936-10-19
Filing date: 1936-10-19
Publication date: 1938-11-01
Anticipated expiration: 1955-11-01

Description

Nov. 1, 1938. CAVANAGH 2,135,170

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 19, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet l J. CAV'ANAGH SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING-THE SAME Nov. 1, 1938.

Filed 001;. ,19, 1956 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 JJCAVANAGH SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 19, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Nov. 1,1938. .1. cAvANA'GH r 2,135,170

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 19,1956 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Nov. 1, 1938 UNl-TED STATES 2,135,170 SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME James Cavanagh, Cohasset, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a. corporation of New Jersey Application October 19, 1936, Serial No. 106,304 I 8' Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and to methods of making the same.

Objects of the invention are to-enable well lasted shoes to be made, even by unskilled operators, without the use of special'and expensive machinery.

In one aspect the novel method consists in preliminarily attaching the .lasting'allowance of an upper to the margin of an extensible insole memher or lasting member with the inner edge of the lasting allowance in predetermined relation to said member, such preliminary attachment being preferably efiected by theuse'of cement, then permanently attaching the upper to the insole member, for example by a seam uniting the inner edge of the overlasted margin of the upper to the insole member, and placing the upper and insole member upon a last of a size such that in drawing the upper over it the insole member will be stretched and extended. The insole member or lasting member is preferably resilient, especially in a crosswise direction, and when thus placed under tension tends to hold the upper in intimate conformity to the last. Not only may the forepart or vamp portion of a shoe upper be lasted in the above described manner, but also the heel or quarter portion of the shoe may be lasted in a 'similar manner, the difference being that in that case the inturned margin of the counter as well as the upper and lining will be secured to the extensible insole ,member. This method is particularly adapted for making sandals or shoes of the type known as open shank shoes in which the vamp and quarter portions of the upper are separated by a space in which there is no upper material.

In the manufacture of sandals in which a substantial portion ofthe upper is composed of straps the ends of which extend over the margin of the last bottom, the strap ends which are opposite each other may be connected by a strip or tape of elastic material prior to the placing of the upper upon a last. The straps may then be forced over a last with an insole thereon, the elastic material connecting the strap ends being thus stretched and the straps placed under ten sion and held in lasted position by the tendency of the elastic members connecting them to contract.

amount all the way' around its periphery, the sides of the last adjacent to the bottom being cut away to produce this result. An elastic insole member fitting the first last is provided and a shoe upper, for example the upper of a pump, is placed upon the last, lasted over intocontact with the elastic insole member and secured temporarily thereto, for example, by cement. then withdrawn and the inner edge of the over lasted margin of the upper is connected to the elastic insole member by a seam. A shank-andheel piece or a full-length insole is cemented on its outer face and placed in the shoe and a second last, which is the same size as the first last before it was reduced is forced into the upper, thereby causing the elastic insole member to stretch and hold all portions of the upper tightly under tension and in conformity to the last. An outsole is then attached to the shoe, for example by usual cement sole attaching The last ismethods. The shoe is then finished in the usual manner and the last withdrawn.

These and other features of the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings, i

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the vamp portion of an 1 Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the quarter portion of an upper and insole after treatment in accordance with the method illustrated in Figs.

1, 2 and 3;

Fig.5 is aperspective view of a last and insole after the vamp and guarter portions of the upper have been drawn over it;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a completed shoe;

- Fig. '7 is a perspective view illustrating a modi-,

fied construction in which tapes attached to opposite sides of the upper are utilized to efiect a supplemental lasting operation at the forepart of the shank; I

Fig. 8 is a perspective view illustrating the application. of the method of the presentinvention to the manufacture of strap shoes Fig. 9 is a perspective view of a first or pre- I liminary last to the bottom of which an elastic insole has been fitted; v

Fig. 10 is a perspective view illustrating the operation of lasting an upper over the last shown in Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a perspective view showing the upper of Fig. 10 stitched to the elastic insole and distended by inserting an insole and a normal last therein; and

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a completed pump shoe.

In carrying out the improved method of making shoes without the use of elaborate machinery in accordance with the present invention, a pattern, for example of the vamp portion of an upper, is made from the last which is to be used,

.the said pattern having a lasting allowance of predetermined width representing the portion which is to be disposed over the bottom of the last. A vamp portion 2ll cut from such a pattern is illustrated in Fig. 1, the lasting allowance being represented by the stippled marginal portion 22 to which cement such as latex may be applied. If desired, of course, a corresponding lining 24 may be cut from the same pattern. The vamp 20 may next be temporarily secured to an insole member or lasting member26 which is shown in Fig. 2 as supported by a plate 28 one end portion of which is shaped to correspond to the shape of the insole member 26 and the other end of which is wedge shaped and adapted to be received by suitable guides 30 vformed at the-upper end of a standard 32 which may be secured in any suitable manner to a bench. The insole member 26 is made of extensible material such as fabric, preferably material which is re-.

'insole member made of such material is preferred. These materials comprise rubber and are therefore expansible and highly resilient. However, where the word "rubber is employed in the appended claims, it is intended to include as equivalents such other materials as are well adapted to-perform the function of the insole member when employed for lasting shoes in accordance with my improved method. The insole member 26 is cut smaller than the bottom of the last which is later to be used in making the shoe by the, amount which it is desired to have the insole member stretched when the vamp is later placed upon a last. Of course the greater the amount of stretch thus allowed for, the' greater will be the tension applied to the lasted upper. .r

The insole member 26 is placed upon the support 28 and cement like that on the vamp applied to the marginal portion 34 of the insole member. Preferably the insole member 26 is provided with marks 36 located a predetermined distance from its edge equal to the width of the lasting allowance 22 provided on the vamp 20. The vamp 20 is now applied to the insole member 26 with the edge of the lasting allowance coincident with the marks 36 and is held preliminarily thereto 7 by means of the cemented

surfaces

22 and 34.

While in some instances such cement may be relied upon to hold the upper and insole permanently together, it is preferred in most instances to remove the vamp and insole member 26 from the support 28 and permanently to connect the inner edge of the vamp and the insole member 26 by a. through-and-through seam 38, the parts at this stage of the operation being represented in Fig. 3.

In preparing the rear or quarter portion of the shoe, a similar method may be followed, the result being shown in Fig. 4 where 40 represents the. quarter portion of the upper and 42 the elastic insole member. The quarter 30 may, of course, be provided with the usual counter and lining, and the quarter, the counter and the quarter lining may be secured to the insole member 42 by a seam 44. A last 46 for which the vamp 20 and the quarter 46 were designed may now be provided with an insole 48 (Fig. 5) and the prepared vamp 26 and quarter 40 drawn respectively over the toe portion and the heel por tion of the last 46. In pulling the vamp portion 20 over the forepart of the last the stretching. of the insole member 26 will apply suitable lasting tension to the vamp 20, and in drawing the 20 and quarter 46 thereoverso that the insole members 26 and 42 will be caused to adhere permanently to the insole. Theshoe illustrated in Fig. 5 has an open shank and hence it is desirable to provide finished edges on the insole.

where it is exposed at the shank. As illustrated,

the shank portion of the insole is cut wider at the shank portion than is necessary to cover -.the

bottom of the last and these extensions are skived to a thin edge and folded back upon themselves and preferably over a cord 50 to provide a finished edge on the insole. The folded-in portions of the shank 'of the insole are held in place by cement and the insole is provided-with the usual steel shank stiffener 52. The shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 5, is now ready to have the upper roughened and the sole 54 attached by the usual cement sole attaching methods, as shown in'Fig. 6,

where also a heel 56 has been applied in the usual manner. As shown in Fig. '7, it is not necessary that the insole 48 extend beyond the ball line of the shoe; the insole member 26 then serves as the insole at the forepart of the shoe, the insole covering only the heel and shank portion of the last and having its forward portion 58 skived to a thin edge at its forward end. A sock lining may, of course, be used if desired.

In order to facilitate the tight lasting of the rear portions of the vamp where they come so near together that there is less opportunity for the extensible material connecting them to stretch,

tapes

60 and 62 may be attached to the edges of the upper adjacent to the end portion 58 of theshort insole and these tapes may be tensioned and knotted at 64 to hold the upper in lasted position, the excess tape material beyond the knot being removed.

In Fig. 8 is illustrated the manner of procedure when the portion of the vamp is composed of a series of straps 66 the ends of which extend over straps it is provided with a finished edge or binding 10.

In adapting the present method to the manufacture of pumps it has been found desirable ,to

modify the procedure in the following manner: In Fig. 9 a last 12 is illustrated the bottom of which has been reduced in size by removing material from the sides of the last all the way around, the original dimensions of the last being indicated in dot-and-dash lines 14. The amount of this reduction is shown. as uniform entirely around the'last but of course the amount of reduction may be varied as a'whole or at different portions of the last to meet varying conditions. An insole member 16 of elastic material is cut to fit the bottom of the last 12. A pump upper 80 which has been cutfrom patterns designed for a last similar to the last 12 before it was reduced is provided with the usual lining 82 and counter 84 and applied to the last 12 and insole member '16, as shown in Fig. 10. The upper is then worked over the last bottom by hand or otherv wise, cement having been applied to the parts as should come on the. insole member may be used before explained to cause the upper to adhere temporarily 'to the insole member. Marks 18 to indicate where the edge of the lasting allowance but with a first last properly reduced are unnecessary.

The first last 12 is removed from the upper and insole member and preferably a seam 86 (Fig. 11) sewed to connect the edge of the upper 80 to the insole member all the way round theshoe bottom. A second last 88 is provided which is like that for which the upper 80 was designed and is not reduced as is the first last 12. An insole 90, or shank-and-heel piece only if desired, has cement applied to its outer face and is placed in the shoe. The second last 88 is then inserted in the shoe, the upper being drawn tightly to the last by the stretching of the insole member 16 necessitated by the insertion of the second last which, of course, has sufiiciently greater dimensions in the region adjacent to the insole to cause such stretching of the insole member 16 to occur. When the cement between the insole and themsole member sets, the insole member is held in its stretched condition. An outsole 92 and a heel 94 may be applied to the shoe in any preferred manner; for example, thesole may be cement-attached or may be attached by throughand-through stitches. Cement-attachment of the outsole may be done while the shoe is onthe last and the cement-attachment of the upper to the outsole of course holds the insole member in stretched condition whether or not a full insole or a heel-and-shank piece has been put into the shoe prior to the insertion of a last.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing afirst and a second last, the lasts being substantially identical except that the first last has the area of its bottom reduced by removing a predetermined portion from its periphery, assembling on the first last an upper cut for the second last and an insole member out to fit the bottom of the first last, working the upper over upon the bottom of the insole member and securing it thereto, removing the first last, inserting the second last thereby placing the upperunder tension, and

attaching an outsole to the overlasted upper.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a first last and a second last, the first last differing from the second last by having the area of its bottom reduced by removing a predeterminedportion from its periphery, assembling on the first lastan upper cut to fit the second lastand an insole member of resilient material cut to fit the bot- :tom of the first last, working the upper over the bottom of the insole member and securing it thereto, removing the first last, inserting the second last thereby stretching the insole-member, and placing the upper under tension and attaching the outsole to theoverlasted upper while the upper ,and insole member are still in tensioned and stretched condition on the last.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper to fit a given last and having a suitable lasting allowance, connecting opposite side portions of said lasting allowance by means of a highly resilient lasting member, comprising rubber, said member being smaller than the last bottom so that the girth of the combined upper and'lasting member is less than the corresponding girth of said last, inserting the last into the upper to stretch said member, whereby the resilience of the member will tension the connected upper portions tightly on-the last, and then, while the upper isthus tensioned on the last, permanently attaching an outsole.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper to fit a given last and having a suitable lasting allowance, connecting opposite side portions of said lasting allowance by means of a highly resilient lasting member comprising rubber, said member being smaller than the last bottom so that the girth of the combined upper and lasting member is less than the corresponding girth of the last, inserting into the upper a full-sized insole having the shape of the bottom of the last, inserting the last into the shoe to stretch said member, whereby the resilience of the member will tension the connected upper portions tightly against the last, and then, while the upper is thus tensioned on the last, permanently attaching an outsole.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper tofit a given last and having a suitable lasting allowance, connecting opposite portions of said last-.

ing allowance by means of a highly resilient lasting member comprising rubber, said member being smallerthan the last bottom so that the girth of the combined upper and lasting member is less than the corresponding girth of the last, insertcement on its outer face, inserting the last into the shoe to stretch said member, whereby the resilience of the member will tension the connected while the upper is thus tensioned on the last, permanently attaching an outsole so that contraction of said resilient member will be prevented when the last is removed.

6. That improvement in methods of making strap sandals which consists in providing a vamp having a suitable lasting allowance and comprissilient material, whereby the resilience of the material will tension the connected straps tightly against thalast, and attaching an outsole to the lasting allowance of the vamp while the vamp is .ing into the shoe a full-sized insole having active upper portions tightly against the last, and then,

under tension on the last so that contraction of said resilient material will be prevented when the last is removed.

'7. In a shoe, a highly resilient insole member comprising rubber in stretched condition, an upper having its margin secured to the margin of said member, and an outsole attached to-the marv gin of the upper and holding said member in stretched condition.

8. In a shoe, 9. highly resilient insole member comprising rubber in stretched condition, an upper having its margin secured to the margin of said member, an outsole cement-attached t0 the margin of the upper and holding said member in stretched'condition, and an insole cemented to the inner surface oi. said insole member.

JAMES CAVANAGH.