US1710936A

US1710936A - Boot or shoe and method of making the same

Info

Publication number: US1710936A
Application number: US66558A
Authority: US
Inventors: May John Walter
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1925-11-03
Filing date: 1925-11-03
Publication date: 1929-04-30
Anticipated expiration: 1946-04-30

Description

April 30, 1929. J, w, MAY 1,710,936

` BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING 'frm SAME Filed NOV. 5, 1925 4 Sheets-Shea? l l l lnvenor. 'John W. May

. Ays.

April 3o, 1929. J W, MAY 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. f5. 1925 4 sheets-sheet 42 z lnvenfor. John W. Muy

April 3o, 1929. J; W, MAYy 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAMEw Filed Nov. 5, 1925 4 sheets-sheet 3 lnvemor.`

y dohn VV. Muy

bwa/@MIM l' v Ays.

April 3 0, 1929. 1w. MAY 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND N IETHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 5, 1925 4 Sheets-'Sheet 4 Fig. 13.

lnvenTon John W. Moy

Patented Apr. 30, 1929.

UNITED STATES..

PA'rlezrr OFFICE.l

JOHN WALTER MAY, OE BOSTON, MAssAcIIUsETTSp/ASSIGNOR To UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW J EBSEY.

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD or MAKING THE SAME.

Application led November 43, 1925. Serial NO.'66,55B.

This invention relates to a boot or shoe in which the insole isfrspecially constructed to give support to the arch ot the toot, and also to a novel method of making such a boot or shoe.

In a boot or shoe embodying my invention the insole is shaped so that it presents on its' upper face a convex arch-supporting portion;

the arch-supporting shape being Asecured by 1o the shape given to the insole rather than by the introduction of a pad beneath the insole.

One Way of securing this desired shape to the insole is by moulding the insole so that it will present a hump or upwardly bent portion at the point where the support is to be given to the arch of the foot and `thisshape is preserved in the completed shoe after it is manuactured by the Way in which the insole is incorporated in the shoe.

In carrying out myginvention I first take an insole blank before it is trimmed to shape and subject it to the action of a die by which the portion thereof which is to constitute.r the sup ort for the arch of the foot is deformed by eing bent upwardly. After theinsole has been thus treated it is placed Von a pattern which forms the gauge for the purpose of trimming the insole to shape said pattern having an opening or recess of a size correspending to the deformed portion of the in. sole so that when the insole ,is placed on the pattern for the purpose of being trimmed the deformed portion co-operates with the recess to position the insole properly .with reference 3 to the pattern. After the insole has been trimmed to the shape of the pattern then said insole may be incorporated in the shoe and the shoe when completed will have an arch- 4supporting portion produced by the shape element. l i

The arch support made in accordance with my invention not only gives the proper supportpto the arch of the' foot but itis fiexible and yielding owing to the manner in which row sh in dotted lines t e position of the arch'supgiven to the vinsole and Without lthe intro-wduction into the shoe of any pad or similarv the manufacture of ladies shoes with a relativelynarrow shank where it is desired to place the 1n'ch supporting feature in the naran v In order'to give an understanding of the invention I have illustrated in the drawings some embodiments thereofand some methods by which the process maybe carried out.

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan View of a shoe having my arch-sup orting feature and showing port;

' Fig. 2 is a section on the line 2 2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a view of the insole blank after it has been deformed to make the arch-supporting portion; j y

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4 4, Fig. 3;

5`is a section on the line 5 5, Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the pattern which is used for trimming the insole;

Fig. 7 illustrates the method of trimming the insole blank to the proper shape; y Flg. 8 is a section. on the line 8 8, Fig. 7; Fig. 9 illustrates an insole embodying nilly invention and designed for use in a welt s oe;

Fig. 10 is a section on the .line 10 10,

vinvvhich the outsole is attached;

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15 15, Fig. 14.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2 which show a welt shoe embodying'my invention, 1 indicates the upper of the shoe, 2 the insole and 3 the Outsole. I

The -insole is formed at the proper point with an arch-supporting portion 4 which may have any desired shape or location in the shoe. i

In the embodiment shown this arch-supporting portion 4 has the shape shown'by the dotted lines in Fig. land is located in the shank of the shoe directly back of the ball thereof. The arch-sup Orting portion 4 isl wider at its forward en than at the rear end and the sides 5 lthereof follow in general the ylines ofthe sides of the sole at this point.

In the direction longitudinally of the insole the arch-supporting portion 4 has a relatively-short front face 50 and a relatively long rear face 51, the front face 50 having a greater angle to the plane of the sole than the rear face 51. This brings the highest part of the arch-supporting portion toward the front thereof. The particular shape or outline of the arch-supporting portion, how'- ever, is not an essential feature ofthe invention and may be varied as desired. g This arch-supporting portion 4 is formed by deforming the insole so that within the outline indicated by the dotted lines Fig. l

the insole has a convexly-curved upper sur- Aface 6 and a concavely-cui'ved under surface I 7 thus producing the pocket 8 beneath the A suitable way as by placing the insole between arch-supporting portion. This arch-supporting shape 4 can be formed 1n the insole 1n any male and female dies which deformthe portien of the insole and give it the shape shown in Figs. 1 and 2. When theinsole is .incorporated in the shoe the arch-supporting portion 4 retains its shape partly by the strength of the leather and partly by the Way i element in the pocket 8.

the shoe is made and Without the introductionofany pad or other similar supportlng In carrying out my invention I propose to form the insole with the arch-supportlngportion While the latter is still in the form of an insole blank and before it is trimmed to shape.

Suchan insole blank is shown at 9 in Fig. 3' and it is larger than the insole, as such -blanks usually are. This insole blank is treated so as to produce an arch-.supporting portion 4 therein as above described and When it has been so treated it Will have the 4shape shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 5,v the central portion of the blank being deformed and given the concavoconvex shape.

' After the insole blank has been thus formed it is then rounded or trimmed to the proper shape by the use of a pattern 10 such as is usually used for this purpose except that the pattern- I propose to use is provided with a recess 11'of a shape corresponding tothe shape of the arch-supporting portion 4 which has y been formed in the insole blank 9. This recess 11 co-operates with the arch-supporting portion 4 to position properly the insole blank on the pattern durnig the roundingr or trimming operation so that said arch-supporting portion is always properly placed relative to the outline of the insole.

Totrim the insole blank-it is placed on the pattern with the convex face 6 of the archsupporting portion 4 fitting into the recess 11 as shown in Figs. 7 and 8l and While the insole blank is held inthis position it is rounded or trimmed to the shape of the pattern, as

shown in full lines Fig. 7 the dotted lines in said figure illustrating the original shape of the insole blank. By means of this operation an insole is produced in which the archsupporting portion 4 always has the correct position relative to the outline of the insole.

After the insole has thus been shaped I apply to the under face thereof a reinforcing member 53 of canvas, duck or similar material, 'the purpose of which isnto retain the shape given to the insole and to prevent the arch-supporting portion from flattening out due to a spreading of the insole at this point. This reinforcing member 53 may conveniently be cemented to the insole or secured thereto in any appropriate way. Said reinforcing member spans the concave face of the archsupporting portion and helps to retain the shape given to the insole.

This reinforcing member 53 may be applied to the insole either before or after it is trimmed. In Fig. 9 I have illustrated the shape and position of the reinforcing member in dotted lines and in Fig. 1() it is also shown spanning the cancave face of the archsupporting portion.

When the insole has thus been deformed and reinforced it is then incorporated into the shoe. The exact procedure of thus incorporating the insole into the shoe will vary according to the style or character of the shoe,

' the steps employed in the case of a Welt shoe being somewhat different from those employed. in the case of a McKay sewed shoe.

In the case of a welt shoe one way of proceeding is illustrated in'Figs. 9 to 12 inclusive. The insole 2, after it has had the arch-supporting'portion 4 formed herein, is channeled around the toe portion only to form the in-seam-receiving lip 12. The chanof the latter and .up against the lip, as shown at 14, and is temporarily tacked to the last by the tacks l5. At the heel of the shoe the edge of the upper is pulled over the insole and tacked in the usual manner, as shown Along the shank portion of the shoe the lasting is done by pulling the edge 17 of the upper over the insole and tacking said upper to the insole by tacks 18. If desired, I may have the last at the shank portion provided with a metal face so that when the tacks 18 are driven they will be clinched over as shown in Fig. 2. After the shoe has thus been lasted .the Welt 19 is sewed to the lip 12 as usual by means of the in-seam stitches 20. The welt, however, extends only throughout the length of the li 12, that is, around the toe of the shoe and bac to about the ball of the foot. At the shank. of the shoe and overlying the archi supporting portion 4 I place a reinforcing piece of leather 21 which extends from the rear of the lip 12 and welt 19 back to the heel portion. This reinforcing leather piece 21 is wider than the shank of the shoe so that it projects beyond the insole at each edge as shown at 22 and it is secured to the insole by suitable fastenings which extend through thel edge of the upper. lVhile any suitable fastening device may be employed I will preferably unit-e the insole and reinforcing piece 21 by. means of stitches 23. These stitches may be inserted by hand or in any appropriate way and they extend from the rear of the in-seam stitches 20 back to the heel. The reinforcing piece 21 is wider than the insole and the projecting edge 22 forms in effect a .continuation of the Welt and provides an edge to which the outsole 3 may be sewed at the shank of the shoe. After the shoe has reached the condition shown in Fig. 12 it may be finished by the usual stepsor operations employed in making Welt shoes, one of which is the sewing of the outsole 3 to the Welt and to the edge 22 of the reinforcin piece 21 by means of the usual stitches 54. he shoe when completed will ,have the insole at the shank portion arched upwardly to form the arch-supporting portion 4 which is flexible and somewhat resilient.

Since the insole issecurely fastened atboth edges to both the reinforcing

members

53 and 21, said members assist in preserving the arch. shape of -the insole-supporting portion 44 and prevent Vsaid portion from. flattening down due to spreading of the insole at this point. The arch-supporting portion 4 and the

members

21 and 53 form a true arch, the

members

21 and 53 constituting the tension element of the arch' and the portion 4 the compression element. The 'shape' of the arch- A supporti portion 4 is thus preserved partly by the i`herent strength in the leather of the insole, partly by the action of the reinforcing

members

21 and 53 in preventing the insole from spreadin and partly by the body of air which is con ned in the cavity 8. Vhere the member 53 is cemented to the bottom of the insole a substantially tight joint will be produced between the insole and the member 21 thus giving to thearch-supporting portion 4 somewhat the characteristic of a pneumatic pocket.

An arch support .having this construction is iexible because of the absence of a relatively nonyielding pad beneath it and is thus comfortable to wear. It is also more or less resilient and it has the capacity of conforming to the shape of the individual foot. While the feet of every person'have the same general characteristics yet each individual foot varies portion embod ing this invention has the advantage that ecause of its flexibility and elasticity it will conform to the shape of the foot instead of compelling the foot to conform to its shape.

In the case of a McKay sewed shoe the process of incorporating the insole in the shoe is slightly different.

The insole itself is made 'in the manner above recited, .except that it is not provided with the inseam-receiving lip 12. A Mc- Kay-sewed shoe will be lasted in usual manner by placing the insole on the bottom of the last and pulling the edge 24 of the upper over the edge of the insole and tacking the upper to the insole by tacks 25 all as usual. It will be understood, of course, that t-he last will be formed with a pocket of a shape and properly positioned to receive the convex face ofthe arch-supporting port-ion 4. The

outsole 26 is then placed in position-and the v the shank the outsole is sewed. to the insole by Vstitches being yindicated at 28 and extending hand instead of by machine, the hand-made from) the lpoint 29 on each side of the shoe f ,back to the heel. The reason for hand sewing the shank portion of the outsole to the insole is that in the case of a narrow shank shoe, such as shown in the drawings, there is not room on either side of the arch-supporting` portion 4 to accommodate the horn of the McKay machine which is introduced into the shoe and if the stitches 28 were made bythe McKay machine the horn would tend tol break down the arch-supporting portion of the shoe. In the McKay-sewed shoe the arched shape of the arch-supporting portion 4 is preserved partly by the reinforcing layer 53and partly by the outsole.

' In both embodiments of my invention the arch-supporting portion is formed by deforming the insole and not by the introduction of a pad or other element beneath the insole. The strength of the arch-supporting portion 4 is due to the strength of the insole and the wa it is incorporated into the shoe.

While I ave illustrated some selected ein bodiments of the invention 'I do. not wish to be limited to the constructional features /shown.

I claim: L

1. A shoe having an insole forming apermanent part thereof and shaped to present an arched arch-supporting portion, the edges of said insole on either side of the arch-supporting portion being permanently secured to a part of the shoe which spans the concave :tace of said arch-supporting portion, said face being unsupported.

2. A shoe having an insole forming a permanent part thereof and shaped to present an arched arch-supporting portion, the edges of said insole on either side of the arch-*supi porting portions beine permanently secured to a part of the shoe vv ich spans the concave face of said arch-supporting portion, said face being unsupported, and said part of the shoe by its permanent attachment to the insble serving to hold the arch-supporting portion in its arched shape.

3. The steps in the method of making a shoe which consists in molding an insole to pro- 4. The method of making an insole for a shoe having an arch-supporting ortion which conslsts 1n molding an insole b ank to produce therein a concave-convex arch-sup' porting portion, superposing said blank on an insole pattern which has a recess to reeeive the arch-supporting portion and then trimming the insole blank to the shape of the pattern.

5. A shoe having an insole forming a permanent part thereof and shaped to present an arched arch-supporting portion, a reinforcing layer offabric cemented to the under a'ce of the insole and spanning the concave face of thearcli-supporting portion, said face being unsupported.

6. The steps 1n the method of making` a i shoe which consists in molding an insole to produce in the latter a concavo-convex archsupporting portion, cementing to the under face of the insole a fabric layer which spans the concave face of said arch-sup orting portion, and incorporating the inso e in a shoe as a permanent part thereof.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN WALTER MAY.