US2425445A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 12, 1947. K. A. STRITTER 2,425,445

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 28, 1945 a Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor KaTlA.Jfri er Aug. 1947. K. A. STRITTER 2,425,445

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 28, 1945 5 Sheets-$heet 2 82 u/ 36 as 44 Inventor Ia 1-2 A. Striilfer his 16 rne-y I "I Aug. 12, 1947. K. A. STRITTER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES filed June 28, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 "IIIIIIIIIII- \\\\\w Fly 23 130 F 22 130 g 124 y 126 1404 I n venfor j Karl/1.55am

& qa:e hisAt rney.

Patented Aug. 12, 1947 2,425,445 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Karl A, Stritter, Nahant, Mass.,

assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application June 28, 1945, Serial No. 602,041

20 Claims. 1

This invention relates to shoes and methods of making shoes and is illustrated herein'witl'i particular reference to prewelt shoes which are slip-in lasted, that is, lasted by inserting a last into the upper after it has been secured to a sole member while off a last.

In slip-in lasted shoes of the prewelt type and also of the platform type, the upper, a welt or edge covering strip, and a thin flexible insole or sock lining are usually stitched together in face-to-face relation while off a last and, after and this ridge, being inside the shoe, is difficult to reduce or eliminate b trimming, beating down or pounding, or even by covering with a slip sole or insole, A ridge of this nature inside the shoe also tends to spoil the fit of'the shoe and often causes discomfort to the wearer. Moreover, such a bunch of material extending around the shoe bottom may interfere with the proper attachment of an outsole or platform sole, especially if the sole members are to be attached by cement.

An important object of the present invention is to provide an improved method pf making prewelt slip-in lasted shoes in which the difficulties referred to above are'eliminated.

To this end, the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, an improved method of making prewelt shoes which consists in providing'a prewelted upper in which the Welt or edge covering strip on the upper projects beyondthe lower edge of the upper an amount substantially equal to the lasting margin of a normal upper, and also providing a thin, flexible insole or sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by an amount substantially equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper or, in other words, by the amount the welt projects beyond the upper.

The projecting portion of the welt orstrip is then.

secured to the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining while the upper is off a last, after which a last is inserted into the upper to shape it and also to position the welt or strip and sock lining relatively to each other underneath the last bottom. I

' As herein illustrated, the welt or edge covering strip projects beyond the lower edge of an upper which is cut scant or with substantially no lasting margin. The projecting portion of the welt or strip is positioned fiat against the margin of the insole or sock lining and the parts are secured together in this position while off a last by overseaming stitches which are overcast across the adjacent edge faces of the members and which permit relative pivotal movement of the welt and sock lining about the, stitches without disturbing the stitches. The welt and sock lining are then turned about the stitches as a pivot to position said members insubstantially the same plane widthwise of the upper and with their adjacent edge faces in abutting relation to each other. A last is then inserted-into the upper to shape the upper and to permit the attachment of an outer sole or the other sole members which are to be used in the shoe.

In accordance with the present method, as herein illustrated, the prewelt "slip-in lasted shoe may be completed as a welt shoe with an outsole attached to the welt by stitches or, if desired, the shoe may be completed as a platform shoe in which the welt or strip serves as an edge covering stri or wrapper for a platform sole with an outsole attached to an inturned portion of the covering strip, for example, by cement.

In either case, of course, the welt or the covering strip or wrapper serves as a sole attaching strip or, in other words, as a strip to which a sole member, such as an outsole or a platform sole, is subsequently attached either by cement or stitches. Modifications of the construction include utilizing the welt or strip to produce a rib or bead between the upper and sole member by folding the strip over upon itself and then attaching the sole member to the foldedover portion of the strip by cement or other attaching means. If desired, a shoe made in accordance with the present invention may be provided with a thin wafer platform sole covered at its edge face by the welt or strip, the shoe, if desired, also having an insole of'normal thickness secured to the upper or sock lining by cement.

A modification of the invention provides a method of making prewelt slip-in lasted shoes in which the portion of the welt or strip which projects beyond the upper is beveled or skived to a relatively thin edge and the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining is also beveled complementally to the bevel on the welt. In this construction, the welt is secured to the sock lining by overlapping their complementally beveled portions and securing said portions together in such position'by cement or other fastening means. Such procedure permits adjustment of the welt and sock lining relatively to each other widthwise of the shoeand this assists in obtaining a tight fit of the upper on the last when the. last is inserted into the upper. This type of prewelt shoe may be made on a last, if desired, although the welt and sock lining are preferably fastened together, as illustrated herein, while off aQlast. Any of the constructions mentioned above may, of course, have their soles attached directly to the welt or attaching strip, as in regular welt shoes, or they may be provided with platform soles or midsoles, in which case the welt or strip will serve as an edge covering strip or wrapper to cover the edge face of the intermediate sole, the outsole being attached to that portion of the covering strip that is turned inwardly over the outer face of the platform sole.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view, the invention will now be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

' Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a prewelt upper and a flexible insole or sock lining used in carrying out the present method;

' Fig. 2 is' a fragmentary sectional view of a prewelt upper in which the welt or strip is secured to the upper by two rows of stitching instead of one and the lower edge of the upper is beveled;

Fig. 3 shows the prewelt upper and sock lining of Fig. 1 secured together off a last by overseaming stitches;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upper and sock'lining illustrating how the overseamin stitches are overcast across the adjacent edge faces of the welt and sock lining;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view showing the socklining and welt in abutting relation to each other afterbeing secured together by the overseaming stitches; Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view illustrating the abutting relation of Fig. 5 more clearly;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view after a last has been inserted into the upper;

Fig. 8 is a section showing an outsole attached to the welt; v

Fig. 9 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 8 in which the welt or strip covers the edge face of a platform sole with an outsole attached to the inturned portion of the strip;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view of a shoe provided with an insole and in which the welt or strip is folded to form a bead between the upper and outsole, the outsole having an extending edge portion and being attached to the strip by stitches;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view illustrating a modified construction in which the outsole has no extension edge and is attached to the welt or strip by cement;

Fig. 12 is a section of a shoe provided with a thin fwafer platform sole, the outsole being attached to the edge covering strip by cement;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary sectional view similar to Fig. 2 showing a prewelt upper having substantially no lasting margin and with the welt or strip projecting beyond the upper;

Fig. 14-. shows the welt secured 011 a last to a thin flexible insole or sock lining by throughand-through stitches;

Fig. 15 is a sectional View showing the welt and sock lining in a straightened position;

Fig. 16 is a section showing a last inserted into the upper and an outsole attached to the welt;

Fig. 1'7 is a modification in which the welt or strip covers the edge face of a platform sole with the outsole attached to the inturned portion of the strip by cement;

Fig. 18 is a sectional view, similar to Fig. 14, in which the welt or strip is secured to the sock lining by a seam with the upper turned wrong side out;

Fig. 19 shows the upper of Fig. 18 turned right side out, a last inserted, and an outsole attached to the shoe bottom;

Fig. 20 is a section showing the shoe of Fig. 19 as a platform shoe in which the welt or strip covers the edge face of a platform sole;

' Fig. 21 is a sectional view of a prewelt upper in which the inwardly projecting portion of the welt is skived or beveled to a thin edge;

Fig. 22 shows the prewelt upper of Fig. 21 with p a beveled sock lining attached to the beveled welt;

Fig. 23 illustrates a modification of the construction shown in Fig, 22 in whichthe welt no lasting margin and has a welt or sole attaching strip 32 secured to its lower edge portion.

by stitches 34 with the welt or strip projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the lasting margin of a normal upper, as shown at 36. A thin flexible insole or' sock lining 38 is also provided which is smaller than a last bottom by substantially the same amount that the welt projects beyond the upper, that is. by an amount approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper. As illustrated in Fig. 2. the welt or strip 32 may be attached to the upper by two rows of stitches 40 instead of a single row. if desired, andthe lower edge face of the upper may be beveled, as at 42, to remove the shoulder from inside the shoe.

The prewelt upper 30 of Fig. 1 is positioned so that the projecting portion 33 of the welt 32 is located in face-to-face relation flat against the marginal portion of the insole or sock lining 38, as illustrated in Fig. 3, and the edge portions of the welt and sock lining are secured together by single thread overseaming stitches M which are overcast across" the adjacent edges of the welt and sock lining, as shown in Figs. 3 and ,4.

The overseaming stitches form loops or rings extending through the adjacent edges of the welt and sock lining and, accordingly, they permit relative turning movement of the welt and sock lining about the stitches as a pivot without disturbing the stitches. After the" welt or strip 32 has been secured to the sock lining completely around its periphery, the weltand sock lining are turned relatively to each other about-"the stitches 34 from the position shown in Fig.3 to that shown in Fig. 5, in which position the welt and sock lining are located in substantially the same plane widthwise of the upper with their adjacent edge faces in abutting relation to each other, as illustrated in Figs. and 6.

A last 46 is now inserted into the upper, as shown in Fig, '7, thereby slip-in" lasting the shoe and shaping the upper to the last and also positioning the overseaming stitches 44 and the abutting edge faces of the welt and sock lining under the last bottom a substantial distance inwardly from the edge thereof. The shoe is now ready to receive an outsole if it is to be 'a welt construction, or to receive other shoe bottom members if it is to be a modified welt or other construction. The shoe illustratedin Fig. 8 is of welt construction and, accordingly, an outsole 48 is attached to the welt or sole attaching strip 32 bystitches 50 passing through the outer portion of the welt and the marginal portion of the outsole.

It may be desirable to make the prewelt shoe terial, such as felt, cork or the like, is laid on the shoe bottom in engagement with the strip 52 and insole or sock lining 38. The outer or free portion of the edge covering strip is then wrapped around the edge face of the platform sole and is turned inwardly against the outer surface of the sole and secured to said surface preferably iby, cement, as illustrated in Fig. 9. The inturned portion' of the covering strip which, like the welt, also serves as a sole attaching strip, is next roughened lightly and coated with sole attaching cement 55, after which an outsole 56 is cement attached in the usual manner to the inturned portion of the covering strip 52. The platform shoe of Fig. 9 has a close edge sole portion which is substantially in alinement with the widest portion of the shoe, although it could, of

course, have-a platform sole and an outsoleprovided with extension edges similar to the extensionedges shown in Fig. 8.

; As afurther modification of the shoes illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9, Fig. 10 shows a shoe with the welt or strip 52 extending outwardly from 1 i the upper to form a medium sole extension and then doubled over upon itself to provide a bead or rib-58 between the upper 30 and an outsole 60,

the'outsole being secured to the doubled-over portion of the welt by through-and-through stitches B2. In the shoe illustrated in Fig. 10, an

the insole being coated with an adhesive.

insole 64 of substantially normal thickness was placed on the last 46 before the latter was inserted into the upper, the outer or exposed surface of After the shoe was completed by the attachment of of the sole attaching strip by cement 10. The insole 64 maybe placed on the last before the shoe of Fig. 11 is slip-in lasted, as illustrated in Fig. 10, to provide the shoe with an insole permanentlysecured to the shoe bottom. If it is desired to produce a platform shoe in which the insole 64 of Fig. 10 is employed without making the sole portion of the shoe too thick, the construction illustrated in Fig. 12 may be utilized, the welt or strip 52 in this construction being wrapped around the edge face portion of a thin wafer platform sole 12 of relatively yielding material and an outsole 14 of normal thickness being attached to the inturned portion of the covering strip, preferably by cement 15. The platform constructions illustrated in Figs. 9 and 12 could, of course, have marginal extensions on the platform soles and outsoles instead of the close edge sole construction illustrated in those figures.

The constructions illustrated in Figs. 1 to 12, inclusive, are an prewelt shoes in which the welt or covering strip is secured to a thin flexible as described above, the present method further provides for securing these members together in other ways to produce slip-in lasted shoes similar to those in which the overseaming stitch is used.

=1 4 Fig. 13 illustrates a scant upper 16 having subthe outsole, the last was withdrawn from the shoe to leave the insole secured in the shoe, thereby providing a smooth inner surface for the foot.

The shoe illustrated in Fig. 10 may be still further modified, as shown in Fig. 11, by folding the welt or sole attaching strip, 52 over upon itself to form a bead 66 between the upper and an outsole 68, the bead being located close to the upper to produce a close edge sole portion instead of an extension edge sole portion, as in Fig. 10, the outsole 68 being attached to the inturned portion stantially no lasting margin and having a welt or strip 78 secured to its lower edge portion by a usual seam 80, the welt l8 projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting allowance of an upper. The inwardly projecting portion of the welt I8 is bent over, as illustrated in Fig. 14, and positioned flat against the marginal portion of a. thin flexible insole or sock lining 82 and the two parts are secured together in this position by through-and-through stitches 84 rather than by overseaming stitches, as described above, the through-and-through stitches being sewn on any conventional type sewing machine. The welt and sock lining are then straightened to position them in a relatively flat plane, as illustrated in Fig. 15, which causes the engaging edge portions of the welt and sock lining and the stitches 84 to project outwardly or away from the inside of the shoe. A last 86 is inserted into the upper to slip-in last the shoe and an outsole 88 is attached to the welt or sole attaching-strip by stitches 98, as

shown in Fig. 16, the outsole in that figure having an extension edge portion in which the stitches are located.

Instead of the welt construction illustrated in Fig. 16, a platform edge covering strip 92'may be substituted for the welt, as shown in Fig. 17, and the strip wrapped downwardly and inwardly around the edge portion of a platform sole 94 and secured against the outer surface of the sole scribed above, by mounting the insole on the last before the latter is inserted into the upper in the slip-in lasting operation.

While the attachment of the welt or strip to the sock lining by a through-and-through seam 84, as illustrated in Figs. 14 and 15, provides a relatively smooth slip-in lasted shoe in either the welt construction or the platform construction, it may be desirable to secure the welt to the sock lining by a still different type of seam, for example, by the seam illustrated in Fig. 18. In this figure a scant upper I00, having substantially no lasting margin, and a welt or sole attaching strip I02 are secured together by stitches I04 with the welt extending beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the lasting margin of a normal upper. The prewelt upper is turned'wrong side out and the inwardly extending portion of the welt is positioned flat against the edge portion of a thin flexible sock lining I06, the sock lining and welt being stitched together in this position by a seam I08. The upper is then turned right side out, as illustrated in Fig. 19, and a last I I is inserted into the upper to shape it to the last and to position the welt I02 and the sock lining I06 in substantially the same plane with the contacting edge portions of the welt and sock lining projecting inwardly toward the last so that the seam I08 is located inside the shoe. Since the stitches I08 are positioned in close proximity to the edges of the welt and sock lining, the inwardly projecting portions of these members and the seam I08 will not produce any appreciable bunch in the shoe bottom although, as illustrated in Figs. 19 and 20, an insole II2 of normal thickness is preferably secured in the shoe, as described above, to provide a smooth bottom surface inside the shoe. An outsole H4 is then attached to the outer portion of the welt or attaching strip I02 by stitches II6 to complete the shoe.

If it is desired to make a prewelt shoe in accordance with the present method and with the seam just described but to produce a.- platform shoe rather than a Welt construction, the welt I02 of Fig. 19 may be replaced by a platform edge covering strip 8, as shown in Fig. 20, and a platform sole I20 of relatively thick yielding material laid upon the shoe bottom, the covering strip II8 being then wrapped around the edge face of the platform sole and wiped inwardly over its outer surface and secured to said outer surface by cement. An outsole I22 is then attached to the shoe bottom, as illustrated in Fig. 20, ,by cement I23 located between the margin of the outsole and the inturned portion of the covering strip lIa which, as indicated above," also serves as a sole attaching strip. The shoe of Fig. 20 does not have marginal extensions on the platform sole and outsole but such extensions could be provided, if desired. It is to be understood, of course, that the outsole of the shoev of Fig. 20 could be secured to the shoe bottom by stitches instead of cement.

In the different shoe constructions described above, the shoes were all slip-in lasted after the prewelt upper was secured off a last to a thin flexible insole or sock lining. Moreover,

the welt or edge covering strip in these shoes extended a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper to serve as the lasting margin for the upper and the insole or sock lining was made smaller than a last bottom by substantially the amount that the welt extended beyond the upper, that amount, as illustrated herein, being substantially equal to the lasting margin of a nor mal upper. It may be desirable in some cases, however, to construct a shoe in accordance with the method disclosed herein, but to provide foran adjustment of the welt and sock lining relatively to each other before they are permanently secured together. The provision of an adjustable feature during the construction of the present shoe, for example, would assist greatly in causing the upper to fit the last tightly when the last is inserted and-thereby produce a well shaped shoe.

With this end in view, the shoe may-be constructed in accordance with the modification illustrated in Fig. 21, in which a prewelt upper I24 having substantially no lasting allowance is provided having a welt I26 secured thereto by stitches I28, the inner portion I30 of the welt projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper. The inner or projecting portion I30 of the welt, however, is skived or beveled to a relatively thin edge in the present case, as shown in Fig. 21, to provide an outwardly beveled inner portion on the welt. The upper I24 with its beveled welt I26 is then assembled with a thin flexible insole or sock lining I32which is considerably smaller than a last bottom but large enough to overlap the inner or beveled portion I30 of the welt, as illustrated in Fig. 22. The marginal portion of the sock lining is skived or beveled complementally to the welt so that when the beveled portions of the sock lining and welt are placed in overlapping engagement with each other, they form a continuous layer of substantially uniform thickness across the bottom of the upper. The sock lining is preferably attached to the beveled portion of the welt or attaching strip by cement I33, the members being adjusted widthwise relatively to each other as much as may be necessary before the cement has set to position them properly for the size of last which is to be inserted into the upper. The sock lining I32 may be attached to the welt I26 while oifa last, in the manner described above and as shown in Fig. 22, or, if desired, the sock lining may be mounted on the bottom of a last I34 (Fig. 24) and the upper worked over the last bottom and the beveled portion of the welt secured in overlasted relation to the correspondingly beveled portion of the sock lining by cement I35. In either case,

when the relative adjustment of the sock lining and welt has been made, the upper Willflt the,

' .last snugly and smoothly at all points and the welt and sock lining together will provide a continuous layerof, substantially uniform thickness across the bottom of the shoe.

If it is not desirable to skive or bevel the welt and sock lining, as described above, they may be left at their full thickness, as shown in Fig. 23, and secured in overlapping relation by cement either on or off. a last. This is especially true if the parts are of particularly thin material. As illustrated in Fig. 23, the welt I30 of full thickness projects beyond the upper I42 a substantial distance and the sock lining I36 overlaps the inner or projecting portion ofthe welt, being secured thereto by cement I40.

The shoe of Fig. 22, if assembled off a last, is now slip-in lasted by .inserting the last I34 (Fig. 24) afterwhich an outsole' I46 is attached to the welt by stitches I48 in the usual manner. If a platform shoe is desired, the welt is made wider or replaced by a platform edge covering strip I50, as shown in Fig. 25, and, after slip-in i lasting, aplatform sole 152 is laidon the shoe bottom and its edge face portion covered by the strip which is wiped inwardly over the" outer sur- An outsole 156 is then attached to the inturned portion of the covering or sole attaching stripthan a sole extension type, although the extension edge sole construction could be provided, if desired.

, wife last, said sock lining being shaped like" an; as'tbottom'byan' amount substantially equal face of the sole and secured thereto by cement;

AS poihted'out in connection with several oithe inserted into the upper so that the compl'etecll:--

shoe will be provided with a normal insole per manently secured inside the shoe in the'man'ner described above. Moreover, the outsole'lfili of 'Fig.'24 could be attached by cement rather than stitches whereas the outsole I56 of Fig. couid be secured to the shoe bottom by stitches extending through the edge covering and sole attaching strip I50, the platform sole I52 and the outsole Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to'secure by Letters 7 shoes which consists in providing a prewelt upper tance approximately equal to the normal-lasting margin of the upper, the stitches being located in close proximity to thelower edge o'f theiupper, securing the projecting portion of thezwelt to the marginalportion one thin flexible "so insole but being smaller than a 'l mg margin .of sn p r, inserting alast into the upper thereby c'oniormi'ng it to the shape'of the last and-straighteriing the sock lining and welt -,to cause them't'o' liei n, substantially the same bottom. '3 f?" f l -5, Thatlim'provement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelt upper 'plane;,-,and attaching asole v membegr,jtothe shoe otherconstructions described above, an insoleoiyfl,

normal thickness may be mounted on the last 134 of Figs. 24 and 25, if desired, before the lastis f having a scant lasting margin and in which the in which the welt projects a substantial distance the upper, inserting a last into the upper, and at attaching a sole to the welt. r

- 2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providingj-a'prewelt shoe upper in which the weltprojects beyond the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting allowance of an-uppensecuring the projecting portion of the welt oil a last to the marginal portion 'of a thin flexible sock: n-f J" ing shaped like an insole but smaller than 5' las bottom by an amount approximately equal to 1;

amount the welt projects beyond the upper,-inserting a last into the united upper 'and sock lining, and attaching a'fsole member to th bOttOm. 1. I"

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a preweltmpper having a scant lasting margin and in which the welt projects beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, positioning the projecting portion of the welt fiat against-the marginal portion of a thin'flexible insole and perposition while the upper is off a last, said insole jects beyond the upper, inserting a lastinto-jthe upper to the shape of the last and locating the welt and insole in a substantially flat position,

" and attaching an outsole to the outer portion of the welt.

4. That improvement in methods of making manently securing said portions together in such 5. r

v g -qr of the upper a distance approximately equal to being smaller than a last bottom by anamountv'.

' ing substantially no lasting margin, stitching a welt to said upper all a last so that the-welt protaching asole to the shoe bottom.

jects beyond the lower edgeof theupper a disapproximately equal to the amount the weltprof I united upper and insole thereby conforming the i welt projects beyond the lower edge of the upper distance approximately equal to the normal sting margin of an upper, securing a thin flexible sock lining off a last to the projecting portion of; the welt by fastening, means located close to adjacent edge portions of the sock "lining and welt, the sock lining being smaller than a last bottom by substantially the amount that the welt projects beyond the upper, inserting a last into the 'upper and attaching an outsole to the'welt. Thatimprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelted shoe upper having substantially no lasting margin and a welt which projects a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper, securing the projecting portion of the welt to the marginal "portion of a thin flexible insole ofia last by stitches which pass through the edge portions of the insole and welt, said insole being smaller than a last bottom by approximately the s me amount that the welt projects beyond the uper, inserting a last into the upper thereby positioning the stitches a substantial distance .-inwardly from the edge of the last bottom, and

attaching a sole to thewelt.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelted upper having a scant lasting margin with the welt-projecting beyond the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, securing a thin flexible sock lining to the .projecting portion of the welt off a last by means of stitches which permit relative movement of the sock lining and welt aboutithe stitches without disturbing the stitches, moving the sock liningand Welt relatively to each other 'funtil they are located in substantially the same plane with their adjacent edge faces abutting each other, inserting a last into the upper, and

attachinga sole to the welt.

8. That improvement inmethods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelted upper having substantially no lasting margin with thewelt projecting beyond the lower edge the normal lasting margin" of an upper, securing a thin flexible insole 01? a last to the projecting portion of the welt by means of overseaming stitches which permit relative turning movement of the insole and "welt about the stitches without disturbing said stitches, turning the insple and welt relatively to each other about the stitches until they are located in substantially the same plane widthwise of the upper with their adjacent edge, faces in abutting relation to each other, inserting a last into the upper thereby slip-in lasting the shoe, and at and welt about the stitches without disturbing the stitches, inserting a last into the upper to cause relative movement of the insole and welt about said stitches and thereby to position the insole in the plane of the welt with its edge face in abutting relation to the edge face of the welt, and stitching an outsole to the welt.

That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper having a scant lasting margin, securing a welt to the lower portion of the upper off a last by stitches located adjacent to the lower edge of the upper and with the ,welt projecting beyond said lower edge a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, providing a sock lining of thin flexible material which is smaller than a last bottom by an amount substantially equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, ositioning the marginal portion of the sock lining fiat against the projecting portion of the Welt with the edge of the sock lining flush with the edge of the welt, securing the sock lining and welt together in such position by single-thread overseaming stitches which are overcast across the edges of the sock lining and welt and permit relative pivotal movement of said parts about the stitches without disturbing said stitches, inserting a last into the upper to cause the sock lining and welt to move relatively to each other about the stitches until they are located in substantially the same plane widthwise of the last with their adjacent edges abutting each other, thereby providingla flat surface for receiving an outsole, and attaching-an out---.

sole to the welt.

11. That, improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in securing an edge covering strip to the lower margin of an upper off a last with the strip extending a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper, providing a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by an amount approximately equal to the amount the covering strip extends beyond the upper, securing the sock lining off a last to the extending portion of the covering strip, inserting a last into the upper thereby po- 12 lining off a lastto the projecting portion ofthe covering strip by overseaming stitches which permit relative pivotal movement of the sock lining and strip about the stitches without disturbing said stitches, inserting a last into the upper to move the covering strip and sock lining about the stiches in'tosubstantially the same plane with their adjacent edge faces in'abutting relation to each other, thereby providing a substantially fiat surface on the shoe bottom, laying a platform sole on the covering strip and sock lining, wrapping the covering strip around the edge face of the platform sole and turning it inwardly over the outer surface of said sole and securing it thereto, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelt upper having a scant lasting margin and a'welt' which projects a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper, the projecting portion of said welt being beveled toa thin edge, securing the beveled projecting portion of the welt to the margin of a thin flexible sock lining which is beveled complementally to the bevel on the welt,

. said sock lining being smaller than a last bottom, inserting a last into the upper thereby shaping the upper and locating the joint between the sock lining and welt under the last bottom and at a substantial distance inwardly from the edge thereof, and attaching a sole member to the shoe bottom. 7

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a prewelt upper having substantially no lasting margin with the welt projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the sitioning the sock lining and covering strip in substantially the same plane to provide a relatively flat surface on the shoe bottom, laying a sole on said flat surface, wrapping the covering strip around the edge of the sole and turning it inwardly over the outer face of said sole, securing said strip to said outer face, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the covering strip.

'12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in securing an edge covering strip of substantial width to the lower margin of an upper off a last with the strip projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper an amount approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, providing a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by an amount substantially equal to the amount the covering strip projects beyond the upper. securing the sock normal lasting margin of an upper, the projecting portion of the welt being beveled to a relatively thin edge, providing a relatively thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by approximately the same amount that the welt projects beyond the upper and which has a marginal portion which is beveled to a thin edge to correspond to the bevel on the welt, positioning the beveled portions of the sock lin ing and welt together in face-to-face relation and securing them together by cement to produce a substantially uniform layer across the bottom of the upper, inserting a last into the united upper and sock lining and attaching a sole member to the sock lining and welt.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoeswhich consists in providing a prewelt upper having a scant lasting margin with the welt stitched thereto so that it projects a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper, the projecting portion of the welt being beveled outwardly to a thin edge, providing a thin flexible sock lining smaller than a last bottom by an amount not quite so great as the amount the welt projects beyond the upper and having its marginal portion beveled complementally to the bevel on the welt, placing the beveled portion of i the sock lining upon the beveled portion of. the

welt and adjusting them relatively to each other into a position in which the upper will fit tightly on a last, securing said portions together in such position, inserting a last into the upper to shape the shoe, and attaching a sole member to the bottom of the shoe. o

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper having a scant lasting margin and a welt stitched thereto with the welt projecting a substantial distance beyond the lower edge of the upper, the

projecting portion of the welt being beveled to a relatively thin edge, positioning the beveled portion of the welt oiT a last upon the margin of a thin flexible sock lining the margin of which is beveled complementally to the bevel on the welt, securing the beveled portion of the sock lining to the beveled portion of the welt, thereby producing a continuous layer of uniform thickness across the bottom of the upper, inserting a last into the upper thereby shaping it to the last and locating the joint between the welt and sock lining under the last bottom and at a substantial distance inwardly from the edge thereof, said continuous layer providing a relatively flat surface for receiving a sole, laying a sole on said flat surface, and permanently attaching the sole to the welt.

1'7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the steps of providing at least at the forepart of the shoe a scant upper having substantially no lasting margin, securing a sole attaching strip to said upper with the strip projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper, and attaching the projecting portion of the sole attaching strip off a last to a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a last bottorn by approximately the same amount that the sole attaching strip projects beyond the upper.

18. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the steps of providing a scant upper having substantially .no lasting mar: gin, stitching a welt to said upper with the welt 19. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the steps of stitching a sole attaching strip to a scant upper having practi-' cally no lasting margin with the strip projecting.

beyond the lower edge of the upper a distance approximately equal to the normal lasting margin of an upper, attaching the sole attaching strip off a last to a thin flexible sock lining which is smaller than a last bottom by approximately the same amount that the sole attaching strip projects beyond the upper, and inserting a last into the upper to shape the latter and position the sole attaching strip and sock lining in substantially the same plane under the last bottom, therebyslip-in lasting the upper and positioning the sole attaching strip for the attachment of a sole member.

20. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes the steps of providing a scant upper having substantially no lasting allowance, securing a sole attaching strip to said upper with the strip projecting beyond the lower edge of the upper an amount approximately equal to the normal lasting allowance of an upper, attaching the projecting portion ofi' the sole attaching strip off a last to a thin flexible sock lining by over'seaming stitches which permit relative movement of, the sole attaching strip and sock lining about said stitches without disturbing the stitches, said sock lining being shaped like an insole but being smaller than a last bottom by approximately the same amount that the sole attaching strip projects beyond the upper, and inserting a last into the upper thereby shaping the upper and moving the sole attaching strip and sock lining about said stitches until said strip and sock lining are located in substantially the same plane with their adjacent edge faces in abutting relation to each other.

mm- A. s'rarrraa.

Images