US1702090A - Chart for drafting patterns - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 12', 1929. 1,702,090

T. C. SCHAFFNER CHART FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS Filed April 1e, 1927 2 sheets-sheet 1 Feb. 12, 1929.

T. C. SCHAFFNER CHARTVFOR DRAFTING PATTERNS Filed April 16, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Feb. 12, 1929,

Nrrs STATES PATE r oFries.

CHART FOR DRAFTKNG PATTERNS.

Application led April 16, 1927. Serial No. 184,220.

' patterns may be drafted `lor the making of mens clothing7 and the object or' my invention is to provide a. chart for each b east size and from each chart a plurality ot patterns may be made, and from each ot said patterns ments clothing maybe made which have the same breast size and varying waist size and other proportions properly arranged to lit persons ot' the particular breast and waist measure. y

Heretoinore it has been a practice to malte one Waist size tor each breast size and as aV result the altering et clot-hing to tit persons ot' diiiperent Waist size troni that made for a particular breast size, has been very great and the profits in the clothing business have been to that extent decreased, and by the use of my invention a large number ot breast sizes will be employed, and for each breast size a plurality of garments will be made having the other dimensions varied and properly proportioned as will be hereinafter explained. My invention will be best understood by reference" to the accompanying drawings forming,

a part of' this specification and in which,

Figure 1 is a top plan view of my chart on a reduc-ed scale, having my invention incorporated therein.

higure 2 is a vieW o a modified form of my" invention which comprises a chart used more particularly for childrens sizes.

In the drawings and for the purpose ot illustration l have shown the preferred embodiment ot my invention.

lle terring to 1, line B represents the breast line, line l the top line, line C the waist line, line D the hip line and line lil the bottom or length line.

This chart has been coi'istructed to be used as a guide tor making patterns for persons live feet ten inches tall and having a breast :measure oit forty inches,and the line Bis shown extending` from the center oll the back to the center ot the trent, that is9 the chart is complete for one-halt' ot the coat and the other halt ot the coat is obviously a duplicate n of the halll shown. Theline 10 is the trent line of the back portion olf the coat and the lines 11 and 12 are the back edges of the trent portion olf the coat representing the waist and breast size thirty-tour inches and forty inches7 respectively. Measuring from a point 13 Where the continuation Ofiline 10 crosses line B, to a point 14 is threeourths ot' an inch and a line drawn from this point vertically `measure or in this case-is ten inches.

is tangent with the curve on the rear side ot the armhole as indicated at 15.Y Measuring trom 111 to a point l5 is onet`ourth the breast n t A line l( is drawn through this point perpendicular with the breast line and intersecting the top 'line or A line at the point 19, which Will be hcremairfter called the balance point upon which the proper iitting of a suit depends. The balance point V19 as sho wn in Fig. 1 is inthe proper position so that a coat with alforty inch breast and a thirty-four inch waist will exactly lit and properly balance When Worn by a person possessing those measurements, and one important feature of my invention isto automatically adjust the balance point for the varying waist measurements and one given breast measure and Athis is accomplished by beginning at the point 18 and measuring to- Y Ward the front el the coat one-eighth inch for each inch increase in the Waist measure. lor instance, l have made this chart to show sizes from thirty-tour to forty inch Waist measure and from each point one-eighth inch apart beginning at 18 may be drau'n linespassing through the point 16 and intersecting the line HA. points 18 andQO on the Waist line., they Will all pass through and intersect at the pivot point 1G and will intersect the topline between the points 19 and 2l, andthese points are designated by numbers 34e to 40, inclusive, and represent the position ot the balance point as it automatically shifted by this means for the waist size to flminclusive. lline 22 is et a suitable len n to properly lit when the breast me V:ure is Aforty ind the waist measure is thirty--i'oru inchefn and line 22 represents i the sameline in a shifted position corresponding with a forty inch breast measure and a 'forty inch waist measure.

gle which line 22 `maires with line 23. ln other Words, the entire upper end of the chart on the front side of the armhole and above the pivot point 16 shifts as a unit about said pivot point as the Waist measure is increased, and the amount ot this shitting is determined as'heretotore explained. Y

"On the waist line C are given a plurality ot points Qsl which represent the front edge ot the required Waist length and the distance from point Se to the line- 25 the extra which must be allowed for the lapping of the coat, similarly the ldistance between the point marked t() and theli'ne 26 is the overlap al- These lines Will all laybetiveen the' lhe angle n'hiclr line makes with line 23 is equal to the an-v lli) loWed on acoat having a Vfort-yiiic'h` waistVV measurefFor each inch iii'creasein Waist measure the front edge of the coat is advanced one-fourth inch, the portion between the front and rear halves ofthe coat is increased oneeighth inch as shown by the points 27,V and themiddle of the bacl is increased one-eighth inch on each half of the 'back material as in'- -dicate'd by pointsZrv The lines 29 and 3() are approXimatelyoftlie saine length and shape for purpose of changing the front edges and upper corner of the coat automati- V cally astliisportion is rotated about the point 16 aspreviously described; it various places about the outline ',of 'the chart are marked v numbers 40 and 34, which ineacli case repre sent the boundary lines and points iised .for

making patterns for coats offorty inch Waist measure and thirty-fourinch Waist measure, respectively, and the 'intervening Vdistance beti'veen a forty anda thirty-four may be 'di- Vvided up as shown at various positionsalong the Waist line, and lines may be drawn. corresponding to these other points but they have not beenincorporated in the chart Vshown as a largenumber of lines is likely to Cause confusionand for thatfreasonI have shown simply the lines ,for the thirty-four and forty Waist size for .the one breast size and I have shown the means by Which lthe chart is aiit0- matically varied in order that a plurality'r of patterns of various Waist* measures andy having the same breastmeasure may be de` signed by the .use ofthis chart.. going descriptionhas in the `main part related specifically to one side `of the coat but it is obvious that in order to make a complete coat two s uch sides. must be usechwhich are ofcourse duplicates.

In Fig-2 I have shown another chartsimilar in principle rto that shown in Fig. l but `varying somewhat in that itfrelates to, childrens sizes, and this chartshows a top line .A, breastline Bm and a waist 'line GW- Asthe breast'measure isincieased one inch .the balance point Slis autoi'natically` and progressively varied by means ofA lines drawn.

from points 32 through points 33, and the remainder of the coat is automatically variedk similar tothat shown and describedin VIfig. l. ,While Ihave described my invention'inits A preferred form it is capable of variations Without departing from thespirit of thein- .vention, andI do not, therefore, yWish to be limited to the precise details of constructions setforth but desire .to avail. myself ofsuch variations and modifications as come Within v,the scope of the appended claims.

I claim as my invention; M

21.77A chart forV drafting. a'pluralityof pat.- terns of one breast size each haviiig'different Waist sizes; said chart 'Compris'ing,V a top li ne,a breast line and a Waist line, each parallel Withthe QtherS-ga pivot peint en said breastline; a balance point on the top rIhe fore-` line Vvertically ahoi'fesaid vpivot point, corresponding to onewaist size, and means for automatically Vvarying said balance point for Vdrafting patternswith the same breast' size and having a plurality of Waist sizes.

Y' 2. lA char-t for drafting a plurality of patterns of one breast size and each having dif-V ferent Waist sizes; said chart comprising, a top line, a breast line and a Waist line, each parallel with tlieother's; aV pivot point on said breast line; a balance point on the top line vertically above said pivot point, corresponding to one 'Waist size; means for automatical l.ly varying said 'balance Vpoint for draftingpatterns with the sainerbreast size'and having,

said balance point and adapted to be adjusted automatically, together withv said balance point, for indicating the outline of a portion of said patterns for said plurality of sizes. Y 3. A' chart for drafting aplur'ality of the patterns' of one breast sifzeand each having different Waist sizes; said chart comprising a top line, a breast Yline and a TWaist line, each parallel with the others; a curved line repree0 a pluralityof Waistsizes; lines drawn from senting an armhole; a line perpendicular with and intersectingvsaid brea'stline, and tangent to the rear sideof said armhole line; a pivot pointon said breastline at a Adista-nce of onefourth the breast measure foriizardl of said intersection; a balance point on the top line vertically above said pivot; av straight line from said balance point through said'pivot point, to apointof intersection with the Waist'A v Y line; points measured in successive one-eighth inches forwardly of the last said point of intersection, from Which lines are drawn through the pivot point and to the top line,-

for automatically adjusting said balance point, for each successive inch increase'inv the Waist measure;

4. A chart for drafting a pluralityof pat- Y terns of one breast size and each having` dif` ferent Waist sizes; said chart comprising, a top line, a breast line and a Waist line, e'achi parallel Witl'i the others ;v a pivot point on said breast line abalancepointronthe top lineV Yvertically above said pivot point, correspondingV to onewaist size; means for automatically varying said balance point forjdrafting patterns With the same breastA size and hav*- ing a plurality of Waist sizes; means for indicating the increasein the 'front and rear .porti'ens of saidcpatterns, alongsaid WaistV line as the Waist mieasurey is increased, and

^irnleaiis fer indicating the outline of said pat` lie :moaoee matically varying said balance point for drafting patterns With the same breast size and having a plurality of Waist sizes; means for indicating` the increase in the front and rear portions of said patterns, along said lwaist* line as the waist measure is increased, and lines drawn from said balance pointa adapted to be adi-usted automatically, together with said balance point for indicating the outline of a portion of said patterns for said plurality of sizes.

(i. A chart for drafting` a plurality of the patterns of one breast size and each having` different waist sizes; said chart comprisingl a top line, a breast line and a .vaist line7 each parallel with the others; a curved line representing an arlnhole; a line perpendicular with and intersecting said breast line7 and tangent to the rear side of said armhole line; a. pivot point on said breast line at a distance of one-fourth the breast measure forward of said intersection; a balance point on the top line vertically above said pivot point; a straight line from said balance point through said pivotpoint,to a point of intersection With the waist line; points measured in successive one-eighth inches forwardly of the said last point of intersection, from which lines are.

drawn through the pivot point and to the top line, for automatically adjusting said balance peint, for eacli successive inch increase in the waist measure; means for indicating the increase in the front and rear portions of said patterns, along said Waist line as the Waist measure is increased.

fi chart for drafting a plurality of the patt rns of one breast size and each having different waist siees; said chart comprising a top line, a breast line and a Waist line, each parallel with the others; a curved line rep resentingl an arinhole; a line perpendicular with and intersectingl said breast line, and tangent to the rear side of said armhole line; pivot point on saidA breast line at a distance of one-fourth the breast measure forward of said intersection; a balance point on the top line vertically above said pivot point;v a st -aigliht line from said balance point through s d pivot point, to a point of intersection with the Waist linie; points measured in successive one-eighth inches' forwardly of the last said point of intersection, from which lines are draivn through the pivot point and to the top line for automatically adjusting said balance point, for each successive inch increase in the Waist measure; means for indicating the increase in the front and rear portions of said patterns, along said Waist line as the Waist measure is increased; lines drawn from said balance point, adapted to be adjusted automatically, 'together with said balance point, for indicating' the outline of said patterns for said-plurality of sizes.

ln testimony whereof l have signed my naine to this specilicatien.

THEOPHUJUS C. SCHAFFNER.

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