US1554624A

US1554624A - Art of shoemaking

Info

Publication number: US1554624A
Application number: US846111A
Authority: US
Inventors: Edward E Cote
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1914-06-19
Filing date: 1914-06-19
Publication date: 1925-09-22
Anticipated expiration: 1942-09-22

Description

E. E. cur

ART 0F 'SHOEIIAKING Sept. 22, 1925.

- Original Filold June 19. 1914 Patented Sept. 22, 1.925.

UNITED: STATES PATENT' vori-icE.

EDWARD E. corn, or HOLLAND, MIoHIGAn, AssIGNon, BY Mi'isNE ASSIGNMENTS, To

UNITED, sHoE MACHINERY oonrona'rion, or PATERsoN, NEW JERSEY, A con- IORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.t

ART 0E sHoEMAKING.:

pplication filed .Tune 19, 1914, Serial No. 846,111. Renewed April 17s 192.5. i

To @ZZ/whom t may concern.'

Be it knownV that I', EWARD E. Corri, a citizen of the United State-s, residing at Holland, in the county of Ottawa and tdt-ate of Michigan, have invented ,certain Improvemei'its inthe Art of Shoemaliing, of' which the lfollowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like. reference characters on tlie' d`i'"awings indicating like parts in the several figures.

Thisinvention relates to improvements in the art' of shoemakng and paiticularlyV to the manufacture of boots andV shoes havingfasteners such asfblind or invisible eyelets.V

Ain invisible eyelet is an eyelet `set in the'lining portion of' a shoe upper beneath the leather or outer portion of'the upper and' in register with a holethrough the leather portion which permits the passage of the lacing. The term blind eyelet employed to designate an eyelet set in the outer portion of an upper in registerywith a hole in the lining portion.

Blind `and invisible eyelets are preferably setl after the layers of the shoe `upper have been stitched together, the setting being performedby means of a setting tool introduced from one side of the shoe upper through a lac-mg hole so that', by relative movement of theftool and the shoe upper, the clenching shoulder of the tool is positioned between adjacent layers of the shoe upper where it meets the entering end of the eyelet barrel' and clenches the eyelet between kthe layers. In inserting eyelets in this fashion difficulty has 4been experienced in locating the clenchingy shoulder of the tool with respect vto the layers ofthe shoe upper with] the result that the pron'ge of the eyelet barrel have sometimes failed to clench in the proper position between the layers. For example,

if 'the upper leather passes too' far beyond the clenching shoulder of the tool, the eyelet will clench between fthe lining or facing and the reinforcing stay, or partly beneath and partly above the stay, thus reducing the holding power of the eyelet.

It is, accordingly, an object of my invention` to provide an improved method of inserting fasteners and clenching the .ends of their barrels between adjacent .layers of material in a manner which will cause the entering ends ofthe barrels of the fasteners to be properly clenched in the" ldesired position between `the layers. l/Vith` this object in view7 when inserting fasteners in accordance with` the present invention,y relative movement of' the setting tool and the outer layer of. the material is positively arrested when the clenchin-g shoulder of the` tool been properly positioned between the layers ofthe' work, and this relationof thev tool and the work' is maintained dnring the clenching of the fasteners.

In my prior co-pending application SerialA 'tion with the mechanism of my prior application' above noted, and in these drawings,-

Figs. 1 and 2 illustratev respectively portions'of the leather and lining parts of an upper before they are secured together;

vFig. 3 illustrates the securing of theparts together;

Fig. 4 is a view, partly' in section, of punching and eyelet inserting tools illustrating their useV inthe performance of the novel method: l

Fig. 5 is a view inperspective of the' setftingv tool, and

Fig; 6y shows a portion `of ain upper in which invisible eyelets have been set.

Asherein disclosed, the lining parts of the' upperjrare' prepared in" the usualfmanner. The leather41 part 30 "as shown in F ig. 1 is prepared byl having the edges which are to' be ,exposed inthe finished shoe folded back upon the body ofthe blank'. l The'lining part' .32, as shown in Fig. 2, is cut approximately tothe size of the leather part yand a reinforcing strip 33 of heavy canvas or similar material is cemented to the inner surface ofthe lining' in thep-roper position to receive the eyelets' and thus afford theman additional holding. k

After' the vparts have been so preparedfthe' leather portion is placed upon the lining part with the edge ofthe lining registering with the edge ofthe leather' part o-r projecting' slightly beyond. The parts then sei cured permanently in that relation which 5 posed. The forward or lacing slit edgeof the upper is, of course, one of these edges and is stitched up, as also is the top edge of the upper and the other exposed edge. The stitching operation is usually combined with an operation known yas undertriinming which consists in trimming` off the surplus margin of the lining part. As shownin Fig. 3, the needle bar 24 of the sewing machine is equipped witha trimming blade 26 for this purpose.

The lacing holes are next punched entirely through both partsof the upper and the eyelets inserted.' The holes punched in the leather or outer portion remain to be seen in the Iinished shoe while the invisible eyelets are set in the holes formed in the lining portion with their flanges inside the shoe and the ends of their barrels clenched on the lining beneath the leather or outer part.

As herein exemplified, after each lacing hole has been punched, the eyelet setting tool is inserted into the hole from one side of the upper and the eyelet is introduced from the other side. The entering end of the eyelet barrel is then forced against the clenching` shoulder of thetool and clenched between the layers of the work. Relative movement of the tool and the work during the clenching operation is limited by a flange or abutment carried by the tool so as to ensure the clenching of the eyelet between the desired layers. The practice of my improved method will now be described as carried out in the operation of such mechanism as that disclosed in my prior application above referred to.

Referring to Figs. 4 and of the drawings, a punch 2O is shown as arranged to lco-operate with a punching die 22 to perforate the work resting on the table 19 which may be the work table of any well-known eyeleting machine as fully explained in said application. At one side yof the punching tool they setting tools are' arranged. The work is advanced after each hole is punched to-'bring that 'hole into" alinement with thev setting tools.

The lower or eyelet carrying set 16 is provided with the usual center spindle 18 and acts to present an eyelet to the work and insert its barrel through the previously punched hole in the lining part of the upper which rests upon the table 19. rfhe clenching surface of the illustrated tool which may kbe utilized in carrying out this method is con-` structed and arranged so as to permit its introduction through the hole in the leather or outer part of the upper by relative movement of the tool and the shoe upper. This tool has ya heavy and rigid flange 10, illustrated as integral with the tool, and is also provided with a solid spindle having a shouldered portion 12 and a leader or pilot 14 of reduced diameter. The end'surface of the shoulder, that isthe surface joining the cylindrical surface of the 'portion 12 and` the surface of the leader 14, is shaped to act as a clenching surface, being curved as shown in cross-section in F ig. 4. 'lhe construction of the tool is such that when it is inserted from the outer side by relative movement of the tool and the shoe upper, the portion 12 will lill the hole in the outer layer of the upper and the end surface Vof the clenching shoulder will be disposed approximately iiush with the inner surface of the outer or leather portion of the upper. The lower surface of the flange 10 at the same time bears upon the outer surface of the leather part 30.

ln using the mechanism herein illustrated in the practice of the present method, the shoe upper is perforated by the punch 20 which is then withdrawnto permit the introduction of the setting tool into thelacing hole. The setting tool is utilized to feed the work so as to bring the lacing hole into alinement with the lower set which isthen moved upwardly, introducing an eyelet into the lacing hole. The entering e'nd of the eyelet barrel' is thus forced against the clenching shoulder of the upper set and continued relative movement of the eyelet and the upper set clenches the eyelet barrel between adjacent layers of the work as illustrated in Fig. 4. During this clenching operation relative movement of the upper set and the outer layer of the work is positively arrested by the engagement of the work against the abutment or fia-nge 10 of the setting tool so as to ensure the correct positioning of the clenching surface of the shoulder between the reinforcing stay 33 and the upper leather 30. Thus the end of the eyelet barrel is properly clenched upon the covered -surface of the lining part or reinforcing strip which constitutes a portion of the lining. In this operation the clenching shoulder acts to roll outwardly theend of the eyelet barrel while the lowerl surface 'of the flange 10 tends to flatten the clenched end of the barrel by pressing the leather part of the upper against it. y

Having now described the method of my invention, together with the product thereof and one form of apparatus for carrying out the method, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. That improvement in methods of inserting fasteners in a. plurality of layers of material by a setting tool adapted to be inserted through the layers of the material so as to clench a fastener between adjacent layers of the material characterized by the. fact that the movement of the outer layerY of the material relatively to the setting tool arresting the relative movement of the outer 10 is positively arrested when the olenohing layer of the material and the setting tool j shoulder of the tool is in proper elenehing When the olenehing shoulder of the tool is position between the layers. properly positioned with respect to the 2. That improvement in methods of inlayers to elenoh the eyel'et between adjacent serting eyelets in a plurality of layers of layers of the material. 15

material which comprises introducing a set In testimony whereof I have signed my ting tool from one side of the material and name to this specification. an eyelet from the other side and positively EDWARD E. COTE.