US2036406A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

AWE W9 mm G @OWU mw w METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 19,- 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet l METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 19, 19 34 4 SheetsSheet 2 M1 7 G. GODDU v METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 19, 1954 4 Shets-Shet s Azwfifl 9 G. @mu EfiRfiA-W METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 19, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Apr. 7, 1936 UNITED STATES METHOD OF MAKING SHOES George Goddu, deceased, late of Winchester,

Massi, by Isabelle W. Goddu, executrix, Winchest/er, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machlnery Corporation, Paterson, N. .l'., a corporation of New Jersey Application January 19, 1934, Serial No. 707,360

28 Claims.

This. invention relates toshoes and to the manufacture thereof and. is illustrated herein with reference to a method of making so-called turn shoes. In the manufacture of turn shoes a shoe upper and a full length sole having an inside channel and a margin reduced in thickness to form a feather and shoulder are assembled wrong side out on a last and the upper is temporarily secured in lasted relation to the sole. The upper is then sewed to the sole with stitches which pass through the between substance separating the channel from the shoulder thereby drawing the upper over the feather and tightly against the shoulder. The channel flap is next 'laid down and the excess material of the upper is trimmed off to provide a relatively smooth surface for engagement with the foot. After the shoe is turned and relas'ted the operations of leveling the sole and attaching a heel to the shoe bottom are performed in the usual manner to complete the manufacture of the shoe.

An object of the present invention is to provide an improved method by the practice of which a turn shoe can be made which will be lighter and more flexible than the usual turn shoe,'which can be as easily and economically manufactured, and which, while being fully as durable as other types of shoes and providing as much support for the foot, will fit the foot better and hence will present a neater and more attractive appearance and be more comfortable to the wearer.

To the attainment of this object and in accordance with one aspect of the invention, a shoe upper, a counter and a forepart sole member or half sole are assembled wrong side out on a last, the opposite lateral margins of the upper being cut fuller than usual at the shank portion and the counter being considerably longer at the sides than a usual counter. The opposite margins of the upper and counter are worked over the bottom surface of the last at the shank portion thereof, a crease is formed in the materials at each side of the shoe along the longitudinal medianline of such portion, and the. upper materials are then secured together where the creases have been formed, thereby locating the line of attachment of the margins on the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last.

As illustrated, the margins of the upper and counter are worked over the last bottom at the shank and are wiped into an upstanding position against the sides of a plate or blade which is supported in a slot formed in the shank portion of the last, the slot being located on the longitudinal median line of such portion and thereby definitely establishing and marking such line. The upper is formed into the angle between the base of the blade and the last bottom 'to crease the upper and thus determine a line corresponding to the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the shoe along which the opposite margins of the upper may subsequently be secured together. Preferably, and as illustrated, the materials may be temporarily se cured together in upstanding position by metallic fastenings, for example, staples, which are preferably inserted into the materials while the blade is still in the slot through an aperture or opening in the blade, this being accomplished, for example, with the aid of a stapling machine, the staples being clinched against the material by an anvil comprising a part of the staple forming instrumentalities of the machine. Additional staples may, if desired, be inserted in the materials near the opposite ends thereof, for example, adjacent to the ball line and the heel breast line, after the blade is removed from the last, thereby insuring that a sufficiently firm attachment of the upper materials is obtained to hold them in upstanding position along the entire shank portion of the shoe.

In order to unite the margins of the upper and counter permanently along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the shoe the illustrated method further provides that a line of stitching be inserted in the materials below the staples and relatively close to the shoe bottom, this operation being preferably performed by a machine especially adapted for this work, for example, a lockstitch sewing machine of the type ordinarily employed in securing outsoles to welts in the manufacture of welt shoes. In accordance with another aspect of the invention, a trimming operation is performed to remove the eXcess material and staples from the shank portion of the shoe and to level this portion so that no substantial ridge will appear thereon, the trimming being done sufficiently close to the stitches to remove the staples but far enough from the stitches to leave sufificient material above the stitches to afford a strong attachment and thus prevent the upper materials from separating during the wear of the shoe.

A still further aspect of the invention resides in the novel method of securing the upper to the half sole which is reduced around its entire periphery to form a feather and shoulder and is channeled inwardly of its margin to receive the upper attaching stitches. As illustrated, the upper at the forepart of the shoe is stitched completely around the periphery of the half sole, this being preferably accomplished with the aid of a sewing machine of the type usually employed for this kind of work, the construction of the machine being somewhat altered, however, to provide space for the shoe as the stitch-forming instrumentalities sew across the ball line. The stitches draw the upper and, across the ball line, the upper and counter, firmly against the shoulder at the edge of the feather portion of the sole member so that the excess upper materials can be trimmed off above the shoulder to leave a relatively smooth surface for the foot at the forepart of the shoe.

When finished, a shoe manufactured in accordance with the method herein disclosed has a firm shank portion which will fit the foot snugly and support the arch of the foot ina proper manner, and which will also be flexible enough to bend readily across the ball line and thereby add to the comfort of the wearer. Moreover, due to its unique construction the shoe is not only able to retain its shape, especially in the shank portion, fully as long as a usual turn shoe, but has the additional advantages of being considerably lighter and neater in appearance than a shoe manufactured in accordance with the usual methods.

The above and other characteristic features and objects of the invention will appear more fully from the following detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the slotted last used in carrying out the present method of making shoes, 2. half sole being shown secured to the forepart of the last and a U-shaped plate being shown above the shank portion of the last ready to be inserted in the slot;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the elongated counter which is to be utilized in the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view showing an everted shoe upper assembled on the last and secured in position by tacks, the U-shaped plate being positioned in the slot and the opposite margins of the upper materials except the lining being wiped in against the plate and held together by a staple inserted through an opening in the plate;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional View taken on the line IV-IV in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a view showing the upper secured in lasted relation to the half sole at the forepart of the shoe with additional staples inserted in the upstanding marginal materials at the shank portion of the shoe, the U-shaped plate having been removed;

Fig. 6 shows the shoe illustrated in Fig. 5 after the marginal materials at the shank have been stitched together and are in the process of being trimmed;

Fig. 7 shows the upper materials at the forepart of the shoe being stitched to the periphery of the half sole;

Fig. 8 is a view showing the shoe with the upper stitched to the half sole and the excess marginal materials at the forepart trimmed ofi;

Fig. 9 shows the shoe after the last has been removed and the shoe turned right side out, a shank piece being shown above the shoe and ready to be inserted therein; and

Fig. 10 shows the shoe relasted and the upper at the heel seat secured in lasted position with tacks.

In practicing the present method of making shoes there is provided a last 20 having a narrow vertical slot 24 formed along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion and extending from about the ball line to the metal plate 26 on the heel end of the last, thereby definitely establishing and marking said median line. A half sole 28, preferably of leather and having its marginal portion 3!] reduced in thickness around the entire periphery thereof to form a feather and a shoulder, is located fiesh side up on the forepart of the last bottom and is secured in this inverted position by tacks 32, the half sole having an in side channel 34 which also extends completely around the periphery of the sole, as shown in Fig. 1.

A multi-ply shoe upper, comprising a leather layer 36, a doubler 38, and a lining 40,-the latter, at least in the quarter portion, being preferably of leather,is now assembled wrong side out with a counter 46 on the last 23 so that the leather layer 36 of the upper will be located next to the last. The upper materials are pulled over the last in the usual manner and are secured at the toe portion by tacks 42, a single assembling tack 44 being inserted in the heel end of the last to hold the upper and counter in proper position. The counter 46 is softened or tempered before it is assembled with the upper so that the material thereof, which is preferably of leather, will be pliable and may be readily molded to the shape of the last. As shown in Fig. 2, the counter 46 is considerably longer at the sides than a usual counter and, when it is assembled with the upper on the last, its forwardly extending side portions 48 and 50 will extend somewhat beyond the ball line of the last and overlap the edge of the half sole.

In cutting out the upper materials and the counter, the portions which are to extend from about the heel breast line to a point somewhat forwardly of the ball line in the finished shoe are cut fuller than usual, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, the other portions being cut in accordance with the regular patterns. After the upper and counter have been assembled wrong side out on the last together with the inverted half sole, the extra material adjacent to the shank portion of the last will, of course, project a considerable dis tance beyond the bottom surface of the last.

A narrow plate or blade 52, having an aperture therein which gives the blade a substantially U- shaped appearance, the legs of the blade being curved along their bottom edges as shown in Fig. 1, is now inserted in the vertical slot 24 in the shank portion of the last, this blade being of sufficient thickness to fit the slot tightly and having a hole 54 in its upper portion to facilitate its later removal from the slot. The blade 52, which forms an abutment against which the opposite margins of the upper may be wiped into upstanding position, is positioned in the slot 24, as shown in Fig. 3, so that the opposite ends of the blade are located at substantially equal distances from the ball line and the heel breast line of the last. The inner layers of the upper materials, that is, the

leather layer 36, the doubler 38, and the counter 46, but not the lining 40, are now wiped over the shank portion of the last and are pressed firmly into the angle formed between the blade and the last bottom, the outer portions of the materials being turned into an upstanding position by contact with the opposite sides of the blade.

The margins of the upper materials may be pressed into the angle between the blade and the last bottom with a blunt instrument or tool to form a definite crease on each side of the upper which will determine the line along which the margins of the upper may be subsequently secured together, this line, of course, coinciding with the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last upon which the blade is located. The blade may then be removed from the last and the opposite margins brought into direct engagement with each other along the line determined by the creases and secured together in any suitable or convenient manner, for example, by temporary fastenings such as: staples. Preferably, and as illustrated herein, the elongated margins at each side of the shoe are worked over the last bottom and into upstanding position against the sides of the blade 52 and tacks 56, 6B are driven at the forward end of the materials, adjacent to the ball line of the shoe, and tacks 58, 6| are inserted adjacent to the heel breast line. margins of the counter and the' upper materials at the shank portion of the shoe,- except the lining M). which at this stage forms the outer layer of the upper, are wiped in closely over the bottom of the last and the outer portions of these margins are formed into the angle between the last bottom and the blade 52 so that these portions will extend substantially at right angles to the last bottom and form a bend or crease in the materials along the base of the blade.

By working the opposite margins of the upper materials in over the bottom of the last-in the manner described and securingthem in position against the upstandingblade, a definite line is established along which the materials may be attached directly to each other, this line coinciding with the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last.

As illustrated herein, the upstanding margins of the upper are secured together by temporary fastenings while the apertured blade is still mounted in the last, thereby permitting the blade to be removed fromthe last to leave the margins in upstanding position. Accordingly, a staple 62 is inserted in the central portion of the upstanding material through the aperture in the U-shaped blade, as shown in Fig. 3, the legs of the staple being clinched against one side of the material. In order to insert the. staple 62 in the upstanding material and clinch it therein the shoe may. be

presented to a stapling machine such, for example,

as one of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,731,853, granted October 15, 1929, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. As disclosed in the. patent mentioned, the machine is adapted to make and insert staples into shoe parts and is provided with fastening inserting means including an anvil providedwith cavities for turning the ends of .the staple legs outwardly with respect, toeach other and thereby clinching the staples in the work.

Fig. 4 shows the shoe in transverse section and illustrates how the staple is driven through the upstanding portions of the upper materials and how it unites these materials while the blade is still positioned in the slot 24.

The blade may now be withdrawn from the slot and the upstanding materials still further secured together by additional staples insertedat. other points therein, for example, at or near theball line and in the portion adjacent to the heel breast line, ,these staples being .indicated respectively in Fig. 5 of the drawings by the reference numerals 64 and 65.

Since the upper materials and counter maybe and, as illustrated herein, are secured in position by tacks after they have been worked over the last bottom and up against the sides of the upstanding blade 52 to form the creases and, consequently, are prevented from pulling away from the last, the blade may, if desired, be removed from the last before any staples are inserted in the upstanding portions of the materials. On the other hand if it should be more convenient to insert the end staples B l and 63, as well as the middle staple 62, while the blade is still positioned in the slot in the last this may be done and the blade withdrawn In this. way the from the slot after the stapling operationhas been completed. In other Words, the invention is not limited to any fixed procedure in locating the l ne of attachment of the opposite lateral margins of the upper materials along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last and any of the methods mentioned above are considered to be within the scope of the invention. Moreover, diiferent types of blades, for example, a blade without an aperture or of a different shape, might also be used to secure the desired results without departing from the spirit of the invention. As shown in Fig. 5 the staples are locate-d high enough in the upstanding material to permit the margins to be subsequently secured together by stitches 10, which are located below the staples as shown in Fig. 6, these stitches being positioned relatively close to the shoe bottom and extending from the heel breast line substantially to the ball line, as will presently be explained.

After the upstanding marginal materials of the upper have been secured together by staples in the manner described, the upper at the forepart of the shoe is worked over the edges of the last and inverted half sole and is secured in lasted relation to the half sole by temporary tacks 68, as shown in Fig. 5, these tacks being driven only part way in and extending around the half sole to points somewhat forwardly of the ball line at each side of the shoe. The stitching of the upstanding margins of the upper materials and counter together at the shank portion of the shoe may be performed, for example, by a machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,169,909, granted Feb. 1, 19.16, in the name of Fred Ashworth, this machine, as disclosed in the patent mentioned, having a work support, a curved awl which feeds the work, a looper, a thread finger, and a curved needle for inserting the stitches, these instrumentalities operating to form stitches known as lockstitches. Fig. 6 shows the shoe after the upper materials have been secured together by the stitches it which are located below the staples and extend from about the heel breast line to the ball line of the shoe.

The upstanding marginal portions of the inner layers of the upper materials having been stitched together in the manner described, that portion of these materials which extends above the stitches should now betrimmed off in order to remove the excess material and staples from the shank portion of the shoe and thereby leave the surface which ultimately forms the inner surface of the shoe relatively smooth and free from metal fastenings. The trimming operation may be performed, for example, by atrimming machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 429,065, granted May 27, 1890, on an application filed in the names of H. S. Schaadt and F. L. Clark, although other types of trimming machines may be employed if desired. The machine referred to has a pair of cutting members or shears, indicated in Fig. 6 by the numerals "i2 and i l, these members being movablev with respect to each other and being provided with inclined. cutting edges arranged to sever the upper materials cleanly and smoothly just above the stitches. Fig. 6 shows the shears operating on the shoe to remove the excess upper material and staples from the shank portion thereof.

The'upper at the forepart of the shoe is now permanently secured to the periphery of the half sole 28 by means of stitches l'ti, as shown in Fig. l, these stitches extending throughthe between substance separating the feather portion of the sole from the inside channel 34 and being covered by the channel flap which is subsequently pressed down over the stitches. As shown in Fig. 8 the stitches 16 extend completely around the periphery of the half sole and secure the forward edges of the elongated counter 46 and the inner layers of the upper materials to the margin of the half sole across the ball line of the shoe. It will be noted in Figs. '7 and 8 that the outer layer or lining 40 of the everted upper is not secured to the half sole across the ball line of the shoe by the stitches 16, the lining having had vertical slits cut therein substantially at the ball line of the shoe to permit the lining to be turned back away from the last during the stitching operation.

The stitching of the multi-ply upper to the half sole 28 is preferably accomplished with the aid of a sewing machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,108,560, grant-ed August 2.5, 1914, on an application filed in the name of Andrew Eppler, this machine being commonly referred to as a Goodyear welt and turn sewing machine and being provided with stitch-forming instrumentalities including a curved hook needle 18, a thread arm 80, a channel guide 82, and a looper 86, as shown in Fig. '7, only the work-engaging portions of these instrumentalities being illustrated in the drawings. The machine forms a line of chain stitches around the entire periphery of the half sole, the single thread of the stitch being located in the bottom of the channel 34. In ordinary usage this particular machine is adapted to stitch a shoe upper to a sole member mounted on a last, the stitches usually extending at least throughout the forepart and shank portions of the shoe. In order that the everted upper materials illustrated here in may be stitched to the half sole 28 across the ball line, as shown in Fig. 8, the operating instrumentalities of the machine have been moved forwardly a considerable distance relatively to the base or supporting column of the machine to provide space for the heel end of the shoe to be swung around in front of the supporting column while the stitches are being inserted across the ball line of the shoe. Since these alterations are purely mechanical in nature and do not change the operation of the machine, the head and supporting column of the machine have not been disclosed in the drawings and reference may be had to the patent mentioned for a full disclosure of the stitch-forming instrumentalities or other parts of the machine.

After the iorepart of the shoe upper has been stitched completely around the periphery of the half sole in the manner described, the lasting tacks 68 and other temporary fastenings are removed, the channel flap is laid down to cover the stitches, and the upstanding marginal portions of the upper materials are trimmed off close to the stitches to obtain a substantially smooth bottom surface at the forepart of the shoe. Fig. 8 shows how the shoe appears after the trimming operation has been performed at the forepart.

The last 20 is now removed from the shoe and the shoe is turned right side out as shown in Fig. 9. A shank piece 88, preferably of leather or similar material and of suflicient length to extend from the heel end of the shoe to a short distance forwardly of the ball line, is now inserted in the shoe and is secured in position, for example, by cement or tacks, or both. The shoe is next relasted right side out on the last 20 and the upper materials at the heel portion of the shoe are worked over the edge of the last and secured in lasted relation to the shank piece 88 by lasting tacks 90, as shown in Fig. 10, the tacks being clinched against the metal plate 26 at the heel end of the last. After the heel portion of the shoe has been lasted it may be pounded or filling material used to render this portion more suitable for the attachment of a wood or leather heel. Subsequent operations necessary to complete the shoe, for example, the sole leveling and edge finishing operations and the attachment of the heel, may now be performed in the usual or customary manner after which the last may be removed from the shoe and a sock lining inserted to complete the manufacture of the shoe.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, definitely marking the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last, and securing the opposite margins of the upper directly to each other along said longitudinal median line.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, definitely determining and indicating the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last bottom, creasing the opposite margins of the upper substantially along the predetermined median line indicated at the shank portion of the last, and securing said margins directly to each other on a line determined by the creases.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a last the longitudinal median line at the shank portion of which is indicated thereon, assembling a shoe upper on said last, forming a crease in each lateral margin of the upper substantially along said longitudinal median line, and securing said margins in contact with each other along said median line.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, definitely determining the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last by a blade located on said median line, creasing the opposite lateral margins of the upper along said blade, and thereafter securing said margins directly to each other on a line determined by the creases.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a last the longitudinal' median line at the shank portion of which is definitely established by a slot, assembling a shoe upper on the last, and securing the upper in lasted position by uniting its opposite lateral margins with staples along the slot which establishes the median line of the last.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, temporarily securing the opposite lateral margins of the upper directly to each other over the shank portion of the last, and thereafter permanently securing said margins together with stitches.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, temporarily securing the opposite lateral margins of the upper together with staples along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last, and thereafter stitching said margins together below the staples.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in determining the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of a last by mounting a plate in a slot in the last, assembling a shoe upper and a forepart sole member on the last, securing the upper to the sole member completely around the periphery of said sole member, and securing the opposite lateral margins of the upper in contact with each other along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last which has been determined by the plate.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to a half sole on a last by stitching the upper completely around the periphery of said half sole, and securing the shank portion of the upper in lasted position on the last by mounting a plate on the longitudinal median line of the last and stapling the opposite lateral margins of said upper together against said plate at the shank portion of the last.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a half sole on a last, definitely marking the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last, securing the forepart of the upper in lasted relation to the half sole by attaching the upper completely around the periphery of said half sole, and securing the shank portion of the upper in lasted position by stitching its opposite lateral margins to each other along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last.

11. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a forepart sole member wrong side out on a last, mounting a blade on the longitudinal median line of the last, forming creases in the opposite lateral margins of the upper by pressing the margins at the shank portion of the upper against said blade, securing said margins to each other along said longitudinal median line without I removing the blade, securing the upper in lasted relation to the forepart sole member, removing the last from the shoe and turning the shoe, and thereafter completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

12. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a half sole wrong side out on a last, securing the opposite lateral margins of the upper directly to each other with staples at the shank portion of the last, securing the upper in lasted .sembling a shoe upper and a half sole wrong side out on the last, securing the upper in lasted relation to the inverted half sole by stitching completely around the periphery of said half sole, securing the upper at the shank portion of the last A in lasted position by stitching its opposite lateral "margins together along the line determined by said slot, removing the last from the shoe and relasting the shoeright side out, and thereafter completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, wiping in the opposite margins of the upper over the shank portion of the last, stapling said margins to each other along the longitudinal median line of said shank portion, stitching said margins together below the staples, and trimming the united margins between the stitches and the staples thereby removing the staples from the bottom of the shoe.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in definitely determining the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of a last by mounting a plate on said line, assembling a shoe upper on the last, wiping in the opposite lateral margins of the upper over said shank portion and securing them together with staples along said plate, stitching the margins together below the staples, and trimming said margins between the stitches and the staples thereby removing the excess material and staples from the shank portion of the shoe.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a half sole and a shoe upper on a last, wiping in the opposite lateral margins of the upper over the shank portion of the last, stapling said margins. directly to each other on a line coinciding with the longitudinal median line of said shank portions, temporarily securing the forepart of the upper in lasted relation to the half sole, stitching the margins at said shank portion below the staples,

rimming the united margins between the stitches and the staples to remove the staples from the bottom of the shoe, and stitching the upper to the half sole completely around the periphery of said half sole.

17. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a half sole and a shoe upper wrong side out on a last, establishing the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last, wiping in the opposite lateral margins of the upper over said shank portion, forming creases in said margins substantially along the established median line, stitching said margins directly together on a line determined by said creases, temporarily securing the forepart of the upper in lasted relation to the half sole, trimming off the excess marginal material at the shank portion of the last, securing the forepart of the upper to the half sole by stitching it completely around the periphery of said half sole, removing the last from the shoe and turning" the shoe, inserting a shank piece in the shoe, relasting the shoe right side out, and thereafter completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

18. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last, working the opposite lateral margins of the upper into upstanding relation to each other along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last while utilizing an upstanding blade supported by the last and located along said longitudinal median line to determine said line, and joining said margins directly to each other.

19. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last having an upstanding blade extending along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper in against the sides of the blade, and joining said margins in upstanding relation to each other along said longitudinal median line.

20. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last provided with an upstanding blade along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper in against the sides of the blade, and uniting said margins directly to each other with staples thereby definitely locating their line of attachment along the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last.

21. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a forepart sole member on a last having an apertured blade projecting from the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, Wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper in against the sides of the blade, and uniting said margins directly to each other through the opening in the blade.

22. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a forepart sole member on a last having an upstanding apertured blade extending along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper in against the sides of the blade, securing said margins directly to each other through the opening in the blade thereby uniting them on the longitudinal median line of the shank por tion of the last, and securing the upper to the forepart sole member completely around the periphery of said sole member.

23, That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper and a half sole wrong side out on a last provided with an upstanding U-shaped plate along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, Wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper in against opposite sides of the plate and attaching said margins directly to each other with staples through the opening in the plate, thereby joining the materials on the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of the last, stitching the upper in lasted relation to the half sole, removing the last from the shoe, and turning the shoe and completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

24. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a multiply shoe upper and a half sole wrong side out on a last the shank portion of which has an upstanding apertured blade extending along its longitudinal median line, working the opposite margins of the layers of the upper, exclusive of its outer layer, into upstanding relation to each other against the sides of the blade, stapling said layers directly to each other along said longitudinal median line through the opening in the blade, attaching all layers of the upper to the toe and side portions of the half sole by stitches, stitching all layers except the outer layer to the half sole completely across the ball line of the shoe, removing the last and turning the shoe, and completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

25. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a half sole, upper and counter wrong side out on a last, said last having an upstanding U-shaped blade extending along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, wiping the opposite lateral margins of the upper and counter into upstanding position against the sides of the blade, securing said margins to each other through the opening in the blade, removing the blade from the last, securing the upper in lasted relation to the half sole, stitching the united margins of the upper and counter together, trimming off said margins close to the line of stitches, stitching the upper to the half sole, removing the last from the shoe and turning the shoe, and thereafter completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

26. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a half' sole, an upper, and a counter wrong side out on a last, said last having an upstanding blade mounted therein and extending along the longitudinal median line of its shank portion, working the opposite margins of the upper and counter in against the sides of the blade, forming said margins into the angle formed by the base of the blade and the last bottom thereby creasing said margins substantially along the longitudinal media-n line of the shank portion of the last, securing said margins together with staples along the line determined by the creases, stitching the margins together below the staples, trimming off the excess material above the stitches thereby removing the staples, stitching the upper completely around the periphery of the half sole, removing the last from the shoe, turning the shoe, and thereafter completing its manufacture in the usual manner.

27. That improvement in methods of making turn shoes which consists in assembling a half sole, a multi-ply shoe upper and. an elongated counter wrong side out on a last and pulling said upper and counter over the edges of said half sole and last, said last having an upstanding U-shaped blade mounted longitudinally and centrally of its shank portion, wiping the opposite margins of the counter and the inner layers of the upper in against the opposite sides of the blade and securing them together with staples inserted through the opening in the blade, removing the blade from the last, securing the forepart of the upper in lasted relation to the half sole, stitching the united margins of the upper and counter together from about the ball line to the heel breast line of the shoe, trimming the excess material from said margins close to the line of stitches thereby removing the staples from the shoe bottom, stitching the forepart of the upper to the half sole completely around the periphery of said half sole, removing the last and turning the shoe, and relasting the shoe and finishing it in the usual manner.

28. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an abutment on the longitudinal median line of the shank portion of a last bottom, assembling a shoe upper on the last, initially securing the opposite margins of the upper together with fastenings located along the line indicated by said abutment, removing the abutment from between the margins of the shoe upper, and securing said margins together with stitches located on said. median line inside of the fastenings.

ISABELLE W. GODDU,

Executria: of the Will of George Goddu, Deceased. 7

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