US2313902A - Shoe and method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Mardi c. D. TURNER 2,313,902

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 8, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 March 16, 1943. c. D. TURNER 2,313,902

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 8, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 16, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFER SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Chester D. Turner, Haverhill, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application August 8, 1941, Serial No. 405,895

9 Claims. (01. 12 142) This invention relates to shoes and methods of making shoes and is illustrated herein with reference to shoes having stitchdown foreparts.

Objects of the invention are to provide an improved shoe of'th type referred to which will havethe desired rigidity and stifiness in its shank portion and yet will have unusual flexibility in its forepart, and to provide an improved method of making such shoes.

To this end the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, an improved shoe whichis of single sole construction in its forepart, the sole comprising a sole or outsole secured by stitchdown construction to an outturned margin or flange on the upper, the shank portion of the outsole being attached to the shoe bottom by cement. As herein illustrated, the shoe is provided with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the shoe to the ball line only and the lasting margins of the upper at its shank and heel portions are turned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to this shank piece. Forwardly of the shank piece the upper is turned outwardly to form a marginal flange to which the extension edgeor margin of the single sole at the forepart is attached by through-and-through stitches in accordance with the usual stitchdown construction. As illustrated, the shank portion of the outsole is attached to the overlasted margins of the upper at said portion by pyroxylin cement which provides a strong permanent bond between the sole and shoe at said shank portion and also imparts to said portion considerable stiffness and rigidity. The single sole construction at the forepart of the shoe insures that such portion will be relatively flexible and this flexibility is further insured by the absence of a stifiening substance such as pyroxylin cement in the stitchdown construction at said forepart.

In the shoe herein illustrated the upper'is pro.- vided with a reinforcing layer or strip, commonly referred to as a mudguard strip, which is attached by stitches to the lower margins of the forepart and shank portions of the upper and, at said shank portion, is coextensive with the upper margin while at the forepart the strip extends beyond or below the upper to form the lasting margin thereof. Accordingly, the lasting margins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe are of two-ply formation comprising both the upper and the reinforcing or mudguard strip while the outturned margin or flange at the forepart comprises only the single ply provided by the mudguard strip. In the shank portion of the shoe the two-ply formation ofthe lasting margin of the upper contributes to the desired rigidity oi construction and this rigidity is further increased by securing the two plies of the margin to each other and to the shank piece by means of "pyroxylin cement. On the other hand, the flexibility of the single sole, stitchdown construction at the forepart of the shoe is increasedby limiting the outturned marginal flange of the upper at the forepart to the mudguard strip only.

In another aspect the invention provides an improved shoe similar in construction to the shoe described above but modified by the provision of a second or top sole in addition to the outsole, this second sole having an extension edge or margin at'its forepart corresponding in size and shape to the forepart of the outsole but being reduced at its shank and heel portions to the size and shape of an insole suitable for the shoe. In the modi fled construction the upper, with or without the mudguard strip, is turned inwardly at its shank and heel portions, as before, and is secured preferably by cement in overlasted relation to the second or top sole while, at the forepart, the lasting margin of the upper is turned outwardly and stitched to the extension edge of the second sole together with the outsole by through-andthrough stitches. The shankportion of, the outsole, as in the previous shoe, is attached to the overlasted upper margins by pyroxylin cement. The shank portion of this'modified shoe will be somewhat more rigid than that of the single sole shoe owing to the two sole, construction while the forepart of the shoe will, of course, not be quite so flexible as the single sole shoe. The modified shoe, however, can-be repaired without damaging the shoe because the second or top sole will hold the shoe together while the outsole is beingre-Q. placed- In still another aspect,'the invention provides an improved method of making shoes in the practice of which the upperis assembled on a last with a short sole member or shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last to the ball line only, and the shank and heel portions of the upper areturned inwardly and worked into overlasted relation to the shankpiece and are secured in that relation, the margin of the forepart of the upper being then turnedoutwardly to provide an outturned margin or flange to which the extension edge of an outsole may be secured by through-and-through stitches. The outsole is laid on the shoe bottom with activated pyroxylin cement on its shank portion and on the corresponding portion of 'theloverlasted margins of theupper. 1 Pressure. 'israp'r plied to the shank portions of the sole and shoe to cement attach the sole to the shoe bottom. The extension edge of the forepart of the outsole is next attached to the outturned margin of the upper by through-and-througli stitches in accordance with the usual stitchdown practice to complete the shoe except for the application of a heel and the usual finishing operations, If desired, a welt may be attached to the top face of the outturned flange of the upper during the stitching operation at the forepart.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and. will thereafter be pointed out in the claims,

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe upper having a reinforcing or mudguard strip attached to the lower margins of its forepart and shank portions;

Fig.2 is a perspective view of a conventional molded shank piece with shank stiffener at:- tached, the shank piece being shown bottom side up;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of an outsole with the opposite margins of its shank portion reduced in thickness and having pyroxylin cement applied to the inner surfaces thereof;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upper and shank piece assembled on a last with the shank and heel portions of the upper secured in over:v lasted relation to the shank piece and with the lasting margin of the forepart of the upper turned outwardly;

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional view throu h the shank portion of the partially completed shoe of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a cross section through the forepart of the shoe illustrating the operation of lasting the upper at said forepart;

Fig. 7 is a cross section similar to; Fig. 5 illustrating the step of cement attaching the shank portion of the outsole to the shoe bottom;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary section showing the outsole and a welt attached by through-and: through stitches to the out-turned upper flange around the forepart of the shoe;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the completed es;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a sole used in making a modified construction of the shoe; and

Fig. ll is a perspective view showing the moditied shoe at the same stage of completion as the shoe of- Fig. 4.

in making a shoe in accordance with the method disclosedherein, a shoe upper {ill and a shank piece or tuck 22 are provided, the upper, as herein illustrated, having a reinforcing layer or so-called mudguard strip 24 attached by a double row of stitches 26 to the lower margin of its fore-. part and shank portions. The upper is prefer? ably cut substantially to size without the usual surplus for trimming and, as shown in Fig. 1, the mudguard strip 24 extends beyond or below the lower edge of the upper around its forepart and forms the lasting allowance or margin for that portion of the upper. At the shank portion of the shoe the upper proper and the mudguard stripare coextensive at their margins so that a the lasting margin of the upper at such portion is of two-ply or double thickness. It might be pointed out that, although the upper, as herein disclosed, is provided with a reinforcing or mudguard strip, such a construction is not absolutely essential in carrying out the invention and an upper without such a strip could also be utilized in practising the important aspects of the invention.

The shank piece 22, as shown in Fig. 2, conforms in size and shape to the heel and shank portions of a last bottom and is preferably molded to the longitudinal contour of the last bottom, the shank piece extending from the heel end to the ball line only of the shoe, as shown in Fig. 2 which illustrates the shank piece bottorn side up to show a usual steel shank stiffener 28 which is attached to its bottom surface to impart rigidity to the shank piece. The shank piece may be composed of fiber or similar material as is usually the case, or it may be composed of leather, ,AlsO a Shown, the shank piece 22 is of the full width of the heel and shank portions of the last bottom.

an outsole 30 is also provided which, as illustrated in Fig. 3, is preferably molded to conform to the shape ofv a last bottom and is of usual thickness except at its shank portion where its opposite marginal portions 32 are preferably re.- duced in thickness to produce relativelythin edges which will assist in securing close fitting sole margins in the shank portion of the finished shoe.

The shank piece or tuck 22 is assembled with the upper 20 on a last 34, the shank piece being secured to the last bottom by tacks or other suitable means, The upper is pulled' over and secured in place on the last by pulling-over tacks in the usual manner. In the shank portion of the shoe, the lasting margin of the upper (which, as hereinbefore pointed out, comprises two lay ers, via, the upper proper and the mudguard strip Z4 is turned inwardly and, after having been worked into overlasted position upon the shank piece 22, is secured in such position by means of pyroxylin cement, as indicated at 35 in Fig, 5, temporary fastenings such as tacks or staples (not shown) being preferably utilized to hold the overlasted margin in place during the dry-ing'or setting of the cement which was preliminarily applied to the inner surface of the upper margin and to the margin of the shank ece- Pre erablv. a d s herein sh at n Figs. 5 anq '7, the two layers which comprise the as in mar in o t e upper n t shank portion of the shoe are secured to each other by pyroxylin cement the cem n h n ee a p i d be tween the a e s ust prior to e in eration- The heel or f h u p r ma be turned inwardly and secured in lasted position a ainst the hank ce 2 b m n of nks 3 which cl c ed ainst the metal a e on the heel or i n of h last b t o Af er he up er a b en 1 shed wa d over the shank piece 22 at the. shank and heel portions of the shoe, the lasting margin of the upper is slit inwardly from its edge at opposite sides of the shoe in the vicinity of the ball line or where the shank piece terminates, the location of the slits being indicated in Fig. 4 by the numerals 36. The lasting margin of the upper forwardly of the ball line and ofthe shank piece 22 is then turned outwardly, either by hand or by a flanging machine adapted for this kind of work, to form an outturned margin or flange 38 which extends around the forepart of the upper. It will be observed that the portion of the upper which forms the outturned margin 38 consists of the mudguard reinforcing strip only because, as stated, this strip extends beyond the upper mar-g sin around the for p rt o th shoe.

2,313,902- The upper is next lasted around the forepart of the shoe, this operation, as illustrated in Fig. 6, being preferably performed by hand with the aid of hand pincers 40 with which the outturned margin 38 may be grasped and the upper pulled against the last until the edge of the mudguard strip 24 is substantially parallel to the edge of the last bottom. This will insure that the lower edge of the upper proper, which is not readily visible during the lasting operation, will also be located in substantial alinement with the edge of the last bottom. The forepart of the upper is secured in lasted position by tacks 42 (Fig. 6) which are preferably driven along the double seam of stitches 26 which secure the mudguard strip to the upper so that the resulting tack holes will be effectively obscured or hidden in the finished shoe. The pulling over tacks at the forepart may be removed after the side tacks 42 have been driven.

The overlasting margins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe are now roughed in the usual manner and pyroxylin cement is applied thereto and allowed to dry, the cement being indicated in Figs. 4, and 7 by the numeral 44. The outsole 30 is likewise roughed along the opposite margins of its inner or attaching surface throughout its shank portion only and these margins are coated with pyroxylincement, as indicated at 45, (Fig. 3), and the cement is allowed to dry.

After the outsole has been thus prepared for application to the shoe bottom, the lower surface of the outturned margin or flange 38 atthe forepart of the upper, and the corresponding marginal extension at the forepart of the outsole are coated with a narrow stripe of cement, preferably a pressure responsive cement such, for example, as rubber cement or latex. The rubber cement on the forepart of the outsole is indicated at 45 in 3. The dry pyroxylin cement on the shank portions of the overlasted upper and outsole is activated by a suitable solvent, such as acetone. and. the outsole is laid on the shoe bottom. The shoe with the outsole applied thereto is then presented to a sole attachin press of any usual or suitable type to apply sole attaching pressure to the shank portions only of the shoe and sole and thus to cause these portlons to become cement attached to each other by the pyroxylin cement thereon. A machine which may be conveniently used for performing this operation may be one of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,047,185, granted July 14, 1936, on an application filed in the name of Ballard et al., this machine, as shown in the patent, being provided with a fluid filled shoe receiving pad 41 and pressure applying abutments 48. Fig. 7 illustrates the operation of attaching the shank portion of the outsole to the overlasted margins of the upper by pyroxylin cement. The shank portion ofthe shoe now contains three separate layers or coatings of pyroxylin cement, viz., the lasting cement 35, the cement 31 between the two plies of the lasting margin, and the sole attaching cement 44. Consequently the shank portion of the shoe is rendered 'much more rigid and inflexible than is usually the case in shoes having merely their outsoles attached by pyroxylin cement. The attachment of the shank portion of the outsole to the shoe by cement requires the application of substantial pressure to such portion. This pressure forces the reduced margins 32 of the outsole firmly against the overlasted margins of the upper and holds them there While the cement is setting and accordingly produces close fitting sole margins in the 1 shank portion of the shoe.

The outturned margin or flange 38 of the upper at the forepart of the shoe is next attached to projects beyond the last bottom by sewing said outturned margin to the outsole extension by through-and-through stitches in the same manner as in a regular stitchdown shoe. Before this operation is performed, however, the outturned margin 38 is preferably pressed or boned in to the angle or crease between the last and the sole extension and is pressed against said extension with a suitable hand tool (not shown) so that the pressure responsive cement 46 on the outsole extension and the outturned margin 38 will cause these parts to adhere firmly together and thereby facilitate the stitching operation. At this point in the method the side lasting tacks 42 (Fig. 6) may be removed. Since these tacks were driven along the seam which unites the mudguard strip to the upper proper, the tack holes will not show in the finished shoe.

The shoe is next presented to a stitchdown lasting machine of any usual type and the outturned margin 33 of the upper is stitched to the outsole extension by through-and-through stitches 50 which extend around the forepart of the shoe from the ball line at one side to the ball line at the opposite side. If desired, the stitchdown lasting machine may be provided with a welting attachmentand a welt 52 (Fig. 8) may be simultaneously applied to the top side of the outturned upper margin 38, the stitches 50 securing the welt to the upper. The shoe is now completed except for the usual finishing operations, such as rough rounding the sole at the forepart, edge setting and burnishing, attaching a heel 54 (Fig. 9) and so forth.

The finished shoe illustrated in Fig. 9 will be characterized by the fact that its shank portion from the breast of the hee1 forwardly to the ball line is unusually stiff and rigid because, as already pointed out, the shank portion. contains three layers of pyroxylin cement and also because the lasting margin of the upper at said shank portion comprises two thicknesses or plies of up per material instead of only one ply. The forepart of the shoe, however, will be characterized by much greater flexibility than is usually the case in regular stitchdown shoes or in cement shoes due to the fact that the shoe has only a single sole or outsole at the forepart and because it is of stitchdown construction rather than of welt or cement shoe construction. Moreover, the ab,-

sence of pyroxylin cement in the forepart of the shoe, either for lasting or for sole laying or attaching, also contributes to the flexibility of said forepart. Finally, the fact that the outturned margin or flange 33 at the forepart of the upper islimited to the mudguard strip alone further contributes to the flexibility of the forepart.

Figs. 10 and 11 illustrate a modification of the nd or t p ole. Th second sol 56, s i lu r t in Fig. 10, is preferably composed of sole leather and is of full length so that it extends from the heel to the toe end of the shoe. At its forepart 58 the sole 56 has an extension edge or margin 59 which corresponds in size and shape to the margin of the forepart of the outsole which is to be used on the shoe, such as that illustrated in Fig. 3, so that the sole 56 is of outsole size at its forepart. At its shank portion 65 and its heel portion 62, however, the second sole is reduced so that it corresponds in size and shape to an insole suitable for the shoe or, in other words, to the bottom of the last upon which the shoe is to be constructed. As shown in Fig. the opposite margins of the shank portion of the second sole 56 may be reduced in thickness the same as those of the outsole in order to insure that the shoe will have close fitting sole margins at its shank portion.

In constructing the modified shoe, the second sole is applied to the bottom of a last 63 by tacks or other fastenings in the usual manner and a shank piece 84, preferably composed of fiber and embodying a metal shank stiffener 66, is mounted on the second sole and secured thereto, the shank piece 6 extending forwardly only to about the ball line of the shoe, asillustrated in Fig. 11. A shoe upper 68 of the same construction as the upper 26, and provided with a mudguard reinforcing strip or extension 19, is assembled on the last 63 with the second sole 5% and shank piece 5t and the lasting margin at the shank portion of the upper, comprising both the upper proper and the mudguard strip 10, which are secured to each other by pyroxylin cement, is turned inwardly and worked into overlasted relation to the shank piece and secured thereto by pyroxylin cement, the upper being temporarily held in lasted position while the cement is setting by tacks, staples or other suitable means. As in the previous construction, the opposite margins of the upper are slit inwardly from their edges at about the ball line of the shoe by slits l2 and the lasting margin around the forepart of the upper, comprising only the mudguard strip "it, is turned outwardly so that, in the finished shoe, it will overlie the upper surface of the extension edge or margin 58 of the second sole 58. Fig. 11 illustrates how the shoe will appear at this stage of its construction.

To complete the modified shoe an outsole of the proper size and shape, such as the outsole 30, is roughed and coated in its shank portion with pyroxylin cement and is laid and cement attached to the overlasted margins of the upper at the shank portion only of the shoe in the manner described above, the marginal extension on the forepart of the outsole from ball line to ball line being attached to the upper by through-andthrough stitches which also pass through the extension edge or margin 59 of the second sole and the outturncd margin or flange on the upper. If desired, a welt (not shown) may be attached to the upper surface of the outturned margin of the upper during the stitching operation. When completed the shoe of Figs. 10 and 11 will have a thicker sole portion than the shoe of Fig. 9 and accordingly will be less flexible at its forepart although more rigid at its shank portion. It has the advantage, however, of being repairable when the outsole wears out because the outsole may be removed and a new outsole applied without destroying the shoe which will be held together during the repairing operation by the second or top sole 56.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: a

1. A shoe comprising an upper, a shank piece and a sole, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball line only and said upper being provided with a reinforcing strip which extends beyond the margin of the upper at its forepart and is substantially flush with the lower edge of the upper at the shank and heel portions, said upper and reinforcing strip being turned inwardly at the shank and heel portions of the shoe and being secured in overlasted relation to the shank piece, and the portion of said reinforcing strip extending beyond the margin of said upper at said forepart being turned out: wardly and secured to the sole, the shank and heel portions of said sole being attached to the overlasted margins of the upper by cement.

2. A shoe comprising a shank piece, an upper, and an outsole, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball iine only, and said upper being provided with a reinforcing strip around the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, said reinforcing strip being coextensive with the margin of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe but extending beyond the upper at the forepart to form the lasting margin thereof, the margin of the upper and the reinforcing strip at the shank portion of the shoe being turned inwardly and secured to each other by pyroxylin cement and being also secured in I overlasted relation to the shank piece by pyroxylin cement, the heel portion of the upper being turned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to the shank piece, the reinforcing strip forwardly of said shank piece being turned outwardly to form a flange around the forepart of the shoe to which the extension edge of the forepart of the outsole is attached by through-and-through stitches, and the shank portion of said outsoie being attached to the overlasted margins. of the upper by pyroxylin cement.

3. A shoe comprising a shank piece having a shank stiifener thereon, an upper provided with a mudguard reinforcing strip around the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, and a single sole having the opposite margins of its shank portion reduced to form relatively thin edges, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball line only, the margin of the upper including the reinforcing strip at the shank and heel portions of the shoe being turned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to the shank piece, and the reinforcing strip only forwardly of the shank piece being turned outwardly and attached to the margin of the forepart of the single sole by through-and-through stitches, and the reduced shank portion of the s ngle sole being attached to the overlasted portlons of said reinforcing strip by pyroxylin cement, thereby providing the shoe with a stiff, 3 inflexible shank portion having close fitting sole margins and with a flexible, single sole iorepart.

4. A shoe comprising an upper, a shank piece, an outsole, and a second sole, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball line only and said upper being provided with a marginal reinforcing strip which be yond the upper at its forepart, the forepart of the second sole corresponding in size and shape to the forepart of the outsole but the shank and heel portions of said second sole conforming in size and shape to an insole appropriate for said shoe, said second sole being located uppermost in the shoe to engage the foot and said shank piece being secured to the outer surface of the second sole, the margin of the upper at the shank and heel portions of the shoe being turned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to the shank piece, and the reinforcing strip at the forepart being turned outwardly to overlie the margin of the second sole, said outsole engaging the second sole throughout the forepart of the shoe but being secured to the overlasted margins of the upper at the shank and heel portions of the shoe, the forepart of said outsole being attached to the second sole and outturned reinforcin strip by through-and-through stitches.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper having secured to its lower margin a reinforcing strip which extends beyond the edge of said upper at its forepart, assembling the upper on a last together with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last to its ball line only, turning the upper inwardly at the shank and heel portions of the shoe and securing it in overlasted relation to the shank piece, turning the reinforcing strip outwardly to form a flange at the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, said strip extending beyond the edge of the upper at said forepart, assembling the upper on a last with a shank piece which extends forwardly only to the ball line of the shoe, working the upper inwardly at its shank and heel portions and securing it in overlasted relation to the shank piece by cement, turning the reinforcing strip outwardly at said forepart to form a flange, positioning a sole on the shoe bottom and attaching its shank and heel portions to the overlasted margins of the upper by cement, and securing the forepart of the sole to the outturned reinforcing strip by through and through stitches.

'7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an upper having a reinforcing strip attached to the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, assembling the upper on a last with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last to its ball line only, working the margin of the upper, including the reinforcing strip, inwardly at the shank and heel portions of the shoe and securing said margin in overlasted relation to the shank piece, turning the margin of the reinforcing strip outwardly to form a flange forwardly of the ball line of the shoe, laying on the shoe bottom a single sole having the opposite margins of its shank portion reduced to form thin edges, attaching the shank portion of the single sole to the overlasted portions of the reinforcing strip by pyroxylin cement, thereby producing a stiff shank portion having close fitting sole margins, and attaching the forepart of the single sole to the outturned margin of the reinforcing strip by through-and-through stitches to produce a flexible forepart on the shoe.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a shoe upper having a mudguard reinforcing strip stitched to the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, said reinforcing strip being coextensive with said margin at the shank portion of the upper but extending beyond said margin at the forepart of the upper, assembling the upper on a. last with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last to its ball line only, turning the coextensive margins of the upper and reinforcing strip inwardly at the shank portion of the shoe and securing them to one another and to the shank piece by pyroxylin cement, turning the margin of said reinforcing strip outwardly in the forepart of the shoe to form an outturned flange, laying an outsole on the shoe bottom and attaching the shank portion of the outsole to the overlasted upper by pyroxylin cement, and attaching the forepart of the outsole to the shoe bottom by through-and-through stitches which pass through the marginal extension on the outsole and the outturned flange on the upper.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a shoe upper having a mudguard reinforcing strip attached by a seam of stitches to the lower margin of its forepart and shank portions and extending beyond said margin at the forepart of the upper, assembling the upper on a last with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last to its ball line only, working the lasting margin of the shank portion of the upper, including the mudguard reinforcing strip, inwardly over the shank piece and securing it in overlasted relation thereto by pyroxylin cement, slitting the reinforcing strip inwardly from its edge at opposite sides of the ball line of the shoe and turning said strip outwardly forwardly of the slits to form an outturned flange, working the forepart of the upper into lasted position on the last and securing it in such position by driven fastenings inserted along the seam of stitches which unites the reinforcing strip to the upper, roughing and applying pyroxylin cement to the overlasted margins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe and to the shank portion of the attaching face of an outsole, applying pressure responsive cement to the margin of the forepart of the outsole and to the outturned flange formed by said strip, activating the pyroxylin cement on the upper and outsole and laying the outsole on the shoe bottom, applying pressure to the shank portion of the shoe to cement attach the shank portion of the outsole to the overlasted upper, forcing the outturned flange of the upper into the angle between the last and the outsole margin at the forepart of the shoe to stick said flange to said margin by the pressure responsive cement, and attaching the outsole and a welt to the outturned flange of the upper around the forepart of the shoe by through-and-through stitches.

CHESTER D. TURNER.

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