US2291799A

US2291799A - Method of making unturned shoes

Info

Publication number: US2291799A
Application number: US396517A
Authority: US
Inventors: Discenza John
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1941-06-04
Filing date: 1941-06-04
Publication date: 1942-08-04
Anticipated expiration: 1959-08-04

Description

.Aug- 4, 1942 I J. DlscENzA y 2,291,799

METHOD voF `MAKING UNTURNEDl sHoEs Filed June 4, 1941 i Illlllllllr if'.

Patented Aug. 4, 1942 f Y UNiTED ras OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention consists of a method of making an unturned single sole shoe either cemented, stitched or Welted.

This application is a continuation in part of my copending-application Serial No. 321,423 filed February 29, 1940, for Unturned shoe and method of making same.

As is Well known there is a large demand for shoes with a single sole, especially for womens wear. Such single sole shoes have usually been made heretofore by putting the upper on the last inside out, the sole is then secured to the upper either by cementing or stitching, and the shoe after the'last is removed, is then turned inside out and ready for wear.

There are a number of disadvantages in the method of'making a turned shoe with a single sole as now practiced. One of them is that in view of the fact that the shoe has to be turned inside out after it is finished, the upper cannot be put on the last with suicient tightness to attain a perfect shape and fit. Another objection is that when the shoe is turned it becomes somewhat distorted or out of shape. Furthermore it required considerable time to make a turned shoe for the reason that the turning is a separate operation.

Another objection is that in a turned shoe as now made a comparatively heavy sole is required to which the upper must be very securely fastened by stitching, because of the strain placed upon the shoe in the process of turning.

It is an object of the present invention to form a shoe with a single flexible sole by a method which eliminates the turning step in the method of manufacturing,

A further` object of the invention is to make an unturned shoe with a thinner and more nexible single sole of lighter weight than can be obtained by making a turned shoe.

A still further object lies in the improved method of making a welted shoe.

Although the novel features which are believed to be characteristic of this invention will be more particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto, the invention itself may be better understocd by referring to the following descrip-v tion taken with the accompanying drawing, in which a particular embodiment of the invention has been set forth for the purpose of illustration.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 represents a last partly embodying my invention before the upper of the shoe is placed thereon;

Fig. 2 shows a last with the upper thereon, and the steel shank member.

Fig. 3 is -a perspective view of a completed shoe made in accordance with the invention before the last is removed.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 4 4 of Fig. 1 showing the removable leather half insole hereinafter to be referred to.

Fig. 5 is a sectionalview taken on the line 5 5 of Fig. 2, showing the upper around the last and the removable leather half insole.

Fig. 6 yis -a sectional view taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 3 showing a section of a shoe with the sole cemented on before the removable leather half insole is removed.

Fig. 7 is a View taken on the line E S of Fig. 3 but after the shoe has been relasted showing the sole secured by a McKay stitch in an exaggerated form and before the removable leather half insole is removed. f

Fig. 8 is another sectional View taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 3 showing a completed shoe withv the sole cemented to the upper and the removable leather half insole and last taken out.

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the removable leather half insole and leather shank member.

Fig. 10 is a bottom .plan view of a lasted shoe with a welt stitched to the upper.

Fig. 11 is a sectional View on line H H of Fig. 10 showing a shoe with a welt before the outer sole is put on the shoe.

Fig. 12 is a Ibottom plan View of a shoe on a last with a temporary reinforcing member over the removable insole and portion of the shank.

Fig. 13 is `a sectional View of the forepart of a finished welt shoe.

Fig. 14 is a sectional View at the shank of a iinished welt shoe.

The method of making a single soled stitched or cemented shoe is as follows:

A wooden last of the usual type designated by the numeral l0 is used. To the heel portion of said last a usual Imetal plate lila is secured of suiicient area to -cover the heel portion only. A removable leather half insole I I is temporarily tacked at I2 to the front part of the last. This removable half insole is preferably made of leather for the reason that it is desirable to .use it a number of times and when made of leather, the holes made by the tacks automatically ll up, so that the same removable half insole can be used a number of times. I do not confine myself to leather, however, as this temporary half insole may be made of some stiffened fabric material or leather composition or any material that -may be desired. A leather shank portion I3 is then tacked to the last at I4. This shank -piece extends from the heel and. overlaps the temporary leather remov-able half insole II but is not secured thereto.

The upper of the shoe is designated by the numeral I5. This upper is then placed over the last and the inturned margin I6 thereof cemented over the edges of the temporary half insole II preferably by rubber cement or some cement that is not permanent in order that the half insole may later be easily removed. Tacks I4a. are temporarily driven all around the margin I6 of the upper. These tacks Ida extend through the inturned margin I 5 of the upper, through the outer margin of the temporary insole I I and Vinto the Wooden last I0. After the cement has set, the temporary tacks I4a around the shank and Vfore part, including the tack or tacks holding the temporary half insole on the last are withdrawn, as well as such of the tacks I4 which temporarily secure the leather shank piece I3 to -the Wooden last. The tacks in the heel portion are driven down through the margin of Ythe upper on the shank piece and are clinched against the metal plate Ia hereinbefore mentioned and these tacks at the heel portion remain p ermanently in the finished shoe together with the leather shank portion I3.

The edges of the inturned margin I6 of the upper I5 are then skived or bufed to make them as smooth as possible. A steel shank stiffening member I'I is then secured either by a tack or tacks or a prong in the usual manner. This shank member I'I extends over the leather shank piece I3 down to the heel. The temporary half insole I I is then waxed or treated with some substance that Will not permanently adhere to cement, so that it may be readily removed when the shoe is completed as hereinafter more fully explained. In a cement shoe an outer sole I8 extending from the heel to t-he toe is cemented at I9 to the upper as shown in Figs. 3, 6 and 8. The heel is then put on and the shoe finished. The last Ii) which, as is usual, is made of two pieces, is then unlocked and removed. The removable half insole II is pulled out, and the shoe is then lined and ready for wear.

When it is desired to make a stitched shoe without a welt by either plain or McKay stitching, the lasting procedure is the same as just set forth in ythe description for making a cemented shoe. The outer sole I8 is then secured by cement to the shank and inturned vmargin I6 of the upper. Cement is placed on the margin of the sole I8 and some on the shank and around the inturned margin of the upper. The shoe is removed from the last in order to have the upper I5 sewed to the outer sole I8 either by plain or McKay stitching. The shoe Yis then put back on the last for putting the heel Von, and the shoe then finished. The last is finally removed and the removable inner half sole I I is taken out. As in the case of the cemented shoe, the shoe is then ready for the insertion of the sock lining and when lined is ready to wear.

In making a Welt shoe the removable inner half sole II is temporarily attached to the last and the leather shank piece I3 overlaps the same Without being secured thereto. The upper I5 is then placed over the last and rits inturned margin IS cemented preferably by rubber .or some cement which temporarily holds the margin of the upper over the removable leather half insole II and the usual tacks Illa are inserted. 7 5

After the cement is set the tacks IlIa are all withdrawn excepting those in the heel portion which are driven through and clinched over on the metal plate Illa. The edges of the margin I6 of the upper I5 are then skived or buffed. The temporary removable leather insole is waxed. In other words up to this point the procedure is the same as previously described in making a cement or non-welt stitched shoe.

I have found that in stitching a welt 2I onto the upper on the sewing machine, the removable half insole II may become loose. In order to overcome that difculty and to give strength to the shoe While the Welt 2I is being stitched onto the upper, I place a temporary reinforcing member 22 of leather or some thin material over `the removable inner half sole II and a portion of rthe shank, Fig. l2, and secure the same thereto by rubber cement or some similar cement which is not of a permanent character. This temporary removable reinforcing member -is of the same area in the fore part as the removable insole II but is longer than the removable insole and extends well down the shank and nearly to the heel portion as shown in Fig. 12. It is temporarily cemented over the temporary insole I I, the greater portion of the shank I3 and that portion of the inturned margin I6 which extends over the edge of the temporary insole I I in order to permit the Welt 2I to be secured to the upper I5 without the welt stitches passing through the temporary insole II. The last I0 is then removed and the welt is sewed on, the stitches passing through the welt, through the margin of the upper I5 and through the shank piece I3 as appears in Fig. 14 which is a sectional View of a lwelt .shoe having the outer sole I8 cemented to the welt. The shoe with the welt attached to the upper is put back on the last, the reinforcing member 22 is then removed. -The steel shank is then put on. If a cemented shoe with a welt is to be made then the outer sole I8 is cemented with a permanent cement to the heel portion, shank and welt. The heel is then placed on and the shoe finished and the temporary half insole is removed and a sock lining put in the shoe.

If, on the other hand, the outer sole I8 is to be stitched to the welt, it is lightly cemented to the shank and welt to hold it in place temporarily and the sole I8 is permanently sewed on to the welt while the shoe is on the last. The heel seat of the outsole is nailed to the heel seat of the lleather `shank piece. The heel is put on and the shoe finished. The last is withdrawn and the removable inner half sole II is then removed from `the shoe and the sock lining yput in andthe shoe is ready to wear. A welt shoe made in this way gives greater flexibility and comfort to the wearer and lgreater strength to the shoe than is attained by the present known methods of making a welt shoe.

It will be understood, and the drawings show, that the removable leather half insole II is of less area than the last although of the same contour. This has to be the case in order to permit its removal after the upper is secured to the sole. If it were of the same size as the last then when the sole or welt was stitched on to the upper the stitches would naturally go through the inner half sole and it could not be removed.

It will be seen that the foregoing method of making a shoe produces an unturned single sole shoe, either cemented or stitched and with a welt when desired. Shoes made in accordance with this method save about one-third of the time required in the making of the usual turned shoe. It will be obvious that the same last can be used in carrying out my method as is used on the cemented, welt and stitched shoe.

Although a particular embodiment of the invention has been shown for purposes of illustration, it is to be understood that various changes and modifications may be made therein, as will readily appear to a person skilled in the art. The invention is to be limited only in accordance with the following Iclaims.

What is claimed is:

1. 'I'he method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe which comprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but of less area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last; temporarily tacking to the last a. leather shank member extending from the heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole member but not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin of the upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole; withdrawing all tacks after the cement has set excepting those around the heel portion; waxing the removable inner half sole; securing a reinforcing member over the removable inner half sole and part of the inner margin of the upper; removing the last and stitching a welt to the leather shank piece and to the upper; relasting the shoe and removing the reinforcing member; securing a steel shank on to the leather shank portion; securing an outer sole to the welt; placing the heel on and finishing the shoe and removing the last and the removable inner half sole.

2. The method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe which comprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but of less area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last; temporarily tacking a leather shank member to the last extending from the heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole member but not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin of the upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole; removing all tacks after the cement has set excepting those around the heel; temporarily cementing a reinforcing member of the same configuration but of less area than the last to the removable half sole, part of the inner margin of the upper and shank piece portion; removing the last and stitching a Welt to the leather shank piece and to the upper; replacing the last and removing the reinforcing member; securing a steel shank on to the leather shank portion; waxing the removable inner half sole; cementing an outer sole over the entire bottom of the shoe and stitching said outer sole to the welt; putting the heel thereon and finishing the shoe; removing the last and the removable inner half sole.

3. 'Ihe method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe which comprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but of less area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last; temporarily tacking to the last a leather shank member extending from the heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole member but not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin of the upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole; removing all tacks after the cement has set excepting those around the heel; skiving the edges of the upper; temporarily cementing a reinforcing member of the same configuration but of less area than the last to the removable half sole, inturned margin of the upper and shank piece portion; removing the last and stitching a welt to the leather shank piece and to the upper, replacing the last and removing the reinforcing member; securing a steel shank to the leather shank portion; waxing the removable inner half sole; cementing an outer sole over the entire bottom of the shoe; putting the heel thereon and iinishing the shoe; removing the last and the removable inner half sole.

' JOHN DISCENZA.