US1905205A - Shoe and the manufacture thereof - Google Patents

Description

April 9 3- o. c. ADAMS SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Origi nal Filed Nov. 13, 1951 :2 Sheets-Sheet 1 A/VENHZQ A r-ii 25, 1933. O, ADAMS 1,905,205

SHOE AND THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Original Filegi Nov. 13, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr. 25, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE OSCAR C. ADAMS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR' T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY snot. AND THE MANUFAGIURE rrrnanor Application filed November 13, 1931, Serial No. 574,823. Renewed January 28, 1933.

This invention relates to improvements in shoes and methods of manufacturing shoes and particularly to the manufacture of shoes having cement attached soles.

At the present time a considerable number of shoes are being manufactured in which the outsoles are attached with cement in place of the more usual stitching. This method of sole attaching is particularly adapted to the manufacture of womens shoes having a trim and dainty appearance since the lasts are left in the shoes, as they are in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes, until the shoes are completed and since the marginal portions of the soles can be reduced in thickness to a very considerable extent without interfering substantially with the wearing qualities of the shoes. Moreover, the relatively high pressure under which the shoe and sole are held while the cement sets serves to force the sole into the most intimate contact with the shoe bottom.

It is an object of the invention to improve the manufacture of shoes of this type in such a way as to provide maximum flexibility of the forepart, particularly at the ball portion of the shoe, without detracting from the desirable qualities noted above which this type of shoe possesses. Accordingly, the illustrated shoe, which constitutes apreferred embodiment of the invention, is welted at its forepart, the welt being stitched to the marginal portion of the lasted shoe upper and to a lip extending about the forepart of the insole of the shoe. This welt, if the lightest type of shoe is to be made, can and should be considerably lighter than the welt used in the manufacture of even light-weight Goodyear welt shoes since no great strain comes upon the welt because of the fact that the outsole, which is to be cement attached, is secured not only to the welt but also to the edge surfaces resulting from the inseam trimming operation and comprising the inner margin of the welt, the edge surface of the shoe upper and the trimmed lip of the insole. The shank portion of the upper, as illustrated. is lasted flat against the bottom of the insole and the outsole of the shoe iscement attached at the shank directly to the marginal portion of the shoe upper. Thus the shank portion of the sole can be given the fine and close edge which is characteristic of most light womens shoes having cement attached soles, while the forepart, by reason of its welt construction and the relatively narrow band'of cement with which the sole is attached, is comparable in flexibility to a light-weight flexible Goodyear welt shoe. At the same time, the edge of the sole at the forepart may be trimmed more closely than is practicable in Goodyear welt shoe construct on and may also be thinner since the edge portions of the insole and welt are intact, not being perforated as by the needle of the outsole stitcher used in the manufacture ofGoodyear welt shoes. Advantages of such a shoe, particularly at a time like the present when the emphasis in the manufacture of womens shoes is so largely on style, will be obvious.

With the above and other objects in view the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of an insole prepared for use in the manufacture of shoes in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates a shoe manufactured in accordance with my invention, after the completion of the lasting operation;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line I III-III of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 illustrates the shoe of Fig. 2 after a welt has been stitched to its forepart, the inseam trimming operation performed and the bottom of the shoe prepared for the reception of sole-attaching cement;

hFig. 5 is a side elevation of the completed s 0e;

Figs. 6 and 7 are sectional views on the line VI-VI and VIIVII respectively of Fig. 5.

In the manufacture of shoes, by the practice of my invention as disclosed herein, the insole 8 is prepared, as shown in Fig. 1, with a Ii 10 extending peripherally of the forepart of t e insole at ashort distance from the margin 12 thereof, the lip terminating, as illustrated at 14, at the forward end of the shank portion 16 of the insole. As illustrated, herein, the forepart of the insole is reinforced with a piece of duck or other suitable fabric 5 18, cemented to the bottom of the insole and to the inner surface of the lip 14 which is preferably formed by two upwardly extendmg portions separated, except at their bases, from the surface of the insole by an appro- 1 priate channeling operation as best indicated in Fig. 3. Thus the forepart of the insole, as illustrated, is of substantially the same character as the forepart of the well-known economy insole commonly used in the manufac- 15 ture of Goodyear welt shoes, though it should be understood that the structure of the insole may be substantially varied without departing from my invention. The shank and heel seat portion of the insole, as

p illustrated herein, are without lip or channel, though the leather or other material from which the insole is formed may be reinforced if desired at the heel seat or at the shank and heel seat in any suitable fashion. Y

The insole 8 is mounted in the usual manner one last 20 (Fig. 2) upon which a shoe upper 22 is assembled and pulled over. The side lasting operation is next performed. At the forepart, that is, forwardly of the front of the shank portion of the shoe, the lasting is done as in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes. As illustrated, the upper 1s secured in lasted relation, from the front of the shank to about the tip line of the shoe, by staples 24 (Fig. 2) driven through the shoe upper and the li 10 of the insole with their legs substantial y parallel to the shoe bottom, for example by a side lasting machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931 on an application filed in the name of George Goddu. The upper at the shank portion of the shoe is illustrated as secured in lasted relation by staples 26 (see particularly Figs. 4 and 6) driven into the insole and having their legs deflected without passing completely through the insole so that there is no metal upon the inner surface of the insole. The working of the upper into lasted relation at the shank and the securing together of the upper and the shank in this way may advantageously be performed with the aid of a machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,297, granted July 21, 1931 on an application filed also in the name of George Goddu. Thus in the shank portion of the shoe the overlasted marginal portion of the upper is held flat against the shank portion of the insole.

The toe and heel ends of the shoe may be lasted in any approved manner, for example with the aid of a bed lasting machine of usual construction. As illustrated, the overlasted marginal portion of theupper at the heel seat of the shoe is held in lasted relation to the insole by fastenings 30. The toe portion of the upper, as shown in Fig. 2, is temporarily held in lasted position by a wire 32 and anchor tacks 34 which, of course, are subsequently removed, after the insertion, if desired, of staples similar to those shown at 24 but inserted by an upper stapling machine of usual construction.

A Welt 36 (Fig. 4) is stitched to the forepart of the shoe, the inseam 38 (Figs. 4 and 7) being sewed by a stitcher of the character commonly used in attaching the welts of Goodyear welt shoes. After the welt has been attached, the surplus portion of the shoe upper, the lip of the insole and the marginal portion of the welting adjacent to the stitches are trimmed off, preferably with the aid of an inseam trimming machine, leaving the edge surface of those portions of the stock but slightly removed from the plane of the bottom of the insole, as illustrated at 40 in Fig. 4. The welt may be separated from the shoe upper by a welt beating operation, or in any other suitable way, to cause it to stand out in the plane of the shoe bottom, as illustrated also in Fig. 4. If necessary, an surplus material may be trimmed from t e margin of the shoe upper in the shank and the inseam may be rolled, for example with the automatic leveling machine commonly used in leveling the outsloes of Goodyear welt shoes.

A shank piece 42 is secured to the insole and filler 44 is applied, at least to the low portions of the forepart of the insole. Any suitable type of filler may be used, the illustrated filler, which is applied sparingly, be-

ing composed of finely ground cork and rubber cement. Then the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank is roughened, as indicated at 46, as also is the welt 36 and the surfaces 40 atthe forepart resulting from the inseam trimming operation, thus preparing those parts for the reception of a coating of pyroxylin cement which is applied and allowed to dry.

The outsole, indicated at 50 in Figs. 5, 6 and 7, is prepared in the manner usual in the manufacture of shoes having cement attached soles. Its marginal portion may be reduced in thickness at the forepart, if desired, and articularly at the shank, after which the esh surface of the sole is roughened over an area perhaps of an inch wide and extending peripherally of the sole from about the heel breast line forwardly about the toe of the shoe and back to the heel breast line at the other side. A coating of pyroxylin cement is then applied to this roughened portion of the sole and permitted to dry after which the cement is softened or activated with a suitable softener, for example of the character disclosed in an ap lication for Letters Patent of the United States Serial No. 508,368, filed January 12,

1931, in the name of Walter H. Wedger, and the sole applied to the shoe bottom and held under pressure while the cement sets. The softener may be applied both to the sole and to the shoe bottom, though under most conditions it is entirely satisfactory to apply it only to the sole. The pressure can advantageously be applied to the shoe and sole with the aid of a machine of the character disclosed in an a plication for Letters Patent of the United tates Serial No. 388,739, filed August 27, 1929 in the name of Milton H. Ballard.

After the sole has been attached its edge is trimmed, set, etc., a heel 52 attached, the last removed and the shoe treed in the usual manner.

The Welted construction of the forepart of my improved shoe eliminates the tendency to burn the foot which is found in many shoes having cement attached soles and results from the sealing or air-proofing action of the film of cement between the outsole and the shoe upper in such shoes. In this respect the shoes manufactured in accordance with my invention resemble Goodyear welt shoes and permit the so-called breathing through the inseam which prevents overheating of the foot. On the other hand, the shank construction herein disclosed permits the use, if desired, of soles having extremely narrow shank portions, cottage roof shanks or 1ndeed shanks of any other desired character. In this connection it should be noted that molded or conformed soles may be used and that the fitting of wood heels is facilitated in that the construction of the shoe bottom permits the width of the sole at the heel breast line to be governed exactly by the width of the heel.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A shoe having its upper secured in lasted relation to its insole at its shank portion by staples driven through the marginal portion of the upper materials and 1nto the insole in such a manner that the legs of the staples are deflected withoutpass ing entirely through the insole, and havlng lts upper at the forepart held in lasted relation to the insole by stitching passing through a Welt extending about the forepart of the shoe and through the marginal portlon of the shoe upper and the between substance of the lnsole, the outsole of the shoe being secured to the marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank and to the welting extending about the forepart of the shoe upper as well as to the adjacent portion of the shoe bottom by pyroxylin cement.

2. A shoe having its upper secured at its shank portion in lasted relation to its insole by fastenings driven through the marginal portion of the upper and into the insole 1n such a manner that they do not extend entirely through the insole, and having its upper at the forepart held in lasted relation 7 to the insole by stitching passing through the between substance of the insole, the marginal portion of the shoe upper and a welt extending about the forepart of the shoe, the outsole of the shoe being cement attached to the marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank and to the welting extending about the forepart of the shoe upper as Well as to the adjacent portion of the shoe bottom.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises mounting upon thebottom of a last an insole the forepart of which is provided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance from the margin of the insole, working the marginal portion of the shoe upper into lasted relation tothe insole, securing it in lasted relation flat against the shank portion of the insole with permanent fastenings and against the lip at the forepart of the insole, stitching a welt to the marginal portion of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip at the forepart of the insole, trimming the surplus upper, welt and insole-lip material from the shoe bottom, and attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom with pyroxylin cement.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises mounting upon the bottom of a last an insole the forepart of which is provided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance from the margin of the insole and the shank portion of which is without such a lip, working the marginal portion of the shoe upper into lasted relation to the insole, securing the upper in lasted position flat against the marginal portion of the insole at the shank by inserting permanent fastenings, securing the forepart of the shoe upper also in lasted relation to the insole, thereafter stitching a Welt to the marginal portion of the forepart of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip at the forepart of the insole, trimming the surplus material from the lip of the insole, the margin of the shoe upper and the portion of the welt adjacent thereto about the forepart of the shoe, and cement attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom,

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises mounting upon the bottom of a last an insole the forepart of which is provided with a peripherally extending lip located a short distance from the margin of the insole and the shank portion of which is without such a lip, working the marginal portion of the shoe upper into lasted relation to the insole and securing it in lasted relation at the shank by staples driven through the marginal portion of the upper into the body of the insole and curving through the substance of the insole without extending to the inner surface of the insole, securing the fore art of the shoe upper, at least from the orward end of the shank portion to about the tip line, by staples driven through the marginal portion of the upper and the lip of the insole, stitching a welt to the marginal portion of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip of the insole, said welt extending from the forward end of the shank portion of the shoe about the toe and back to the forward end of the shank portion on the other side, trimming the surplus material from the lip of the insole, the margin of the shoe upper and the portion of the welt adjacent thereto about the forepart of the shoe, roughening the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper at the shank of the shoe and the welt as well as the trimmed edge surfaces of the insole lip, shoe upper and welt at the forepart of the shoe, and cement attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

OSCAR C. ADAMS.

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