US1714271A

US1714271A - Process of making shoes

Info

Publication number: US1714271A
Application number: US409225A
Authority: US
Inventors: John A Kelly
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1920-09-09
Filing date: 1920-09-09
Publication date: 1929-05-21
Anticipated expiration: 1946-05-21

Description

J. A. KELLY -1,714,271

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES May 21, 1929.

Original F'led Sept. 9, 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 mmvm/r 7 9r ATTORNEY May 21, 1929. J. A; KELLY PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed sept. 9. 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A TTOR/VEY Patented May 21,1929, 1,714,271 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE;

JOHN A. KELLY, or nnooxnvm'nnw YORK.

rnocnss or MAKING snoEs.

Application filed September 9, 1920, Serial No. 409,225. Renewed May 3, 1924.

This invention is a process of making shoes shank portion of the shoe produced by my wherein provision is made of increased seinvention. y curity of attachment between the upper and Figure 8 is a vertical longitudinal section the outsole, as a result of which the seam through the upper and outsole after attach- 6 will not pull away from the upper. ment, showing the steps of pulling out the According to this invention, the procedur chain stitch to'detach the stay from the teminvolves the step of positioning a stay i porary insole and the dislodgment of such such relation to a last that the margin of temporary insole from its position within an upper when lasted will overlap the stay, the upper. I c5 thereafter attaching the margin of the upper Figure 9 is a cross section through another to the stay as by stitching, cementing or form of the stay, in which form said stay is stapling, then trimming the margin of the composed of two lapping pieces of material upper, placing an outsole upon the upper as to one of which the upper .is stapled, whereas usual, and finally stitching the outsole to the other piece overlaps the stapled edge of 1 the upper .and the stay so that the stitches the first piece and the margin of the upper pass through the stay as well as through the so that the line of staples is covered by a upper and the outsole. 7 layer of material in order to afford a smooth I In a preferred mode of procedure, the stay surface within the shoe and thus prevent the;

is connected or attached to a temporary instaples from hurting the foot when the shoe 20 sole by any one of several known means of is worn.

attachment commonly used in the art of 'The temporary insole A is composed of a making shoes, such as by cementing, stapling suitable flexible material, such as leather, or by achain stitch seam, thus providing for fabric, etc., its shape and dimensions 0011- the ready disengagement between the said forming approximately to the last. To this 25 temporary insole and the stay when the ininsole is detachably attached a stay B console is to be dislodged or withdrawn from stituting an essential feature of the inventhe shoe. Said stay is'composed' of any mation, said stay being composed of leather, terial suitable for the purpose, such as fabric or other material suitable for the pur leather or fabric, and it consists of one or pose. The stay isathin flat piece of material 30 more narrow flat pieces of material out or conforming to the marginal contour of the shaped to follow the outline of the last at insole,,.upon which the stay is positioned for the forepart thereof. I one edge- .,thereof to extend beyond the edge Other features and advantages of the inof said temporary insole. Said stay is atvention will appear from the following detached to the insole by a temporary fastening, scription taken in connection with'the drawthe same being shown as a chain stitch b, ings, whereinalthough the stay may be cemented, pasted, Figure 1 is a plan view of a temporary in-' stapledor otherwise attached so as to leave. sole with the stay attached thereto in a suitits edges free. As shown the seam 6- passesable manner as by-a chain stitch. through the middle portion of thestay B 10 Figure 2 is a plan view of the upper lasted and the insole near the edge of the latter, over a temporary insole and a permanent both edges of the stayB being unattached shank piece, said upper being sta led to the and free. r stay positioned beneath the laste upper. C is a permanent shank piece, the same Figure 3 is a plan view of the parts shown being provided within the edges thereof with V 45 in Figure 2 after trimming the margin of a channel 0 producing a lip c.

the upper., In carrying out the invention, the tem- Figures 4t and 5 are vertical cross sectional porary insole is imposed upon a suitable last views on the lines 4-4 and 5-5 respectively D upon which said insolefis retained temof Figure 3. pararily by the usual lasting tacks d, the Figure 6 is a cross section through the shoe shank piece C being also. imposed upon said I after stitching the outsole to the upper and last for the fore end ofthe shank to meet the stay, the last having been previously reor lap the rear end of the'ttemporary insole, moved, said view showing the operation of see Figure 3. p pulling out the chain stitch preliminarily to The upper 'D'1s 'now lasted in the usual 5-51 the step of dislodging the temporary insole. manner, the marginal portion d beingdrawn Figure a section through the over the last so as to have a'substantial porg tion of said margin d extend over the temporary insole and the sta B, the lasted upper being held by lasting tacks d see Figure 2.

When using a temporary insole intended to be dislodged from the shoe in the process of completing it, I use suitable tacks d in the operation of temporarily fastening the upper so as to retain the parts in the desired relation.

Having lasted the upper with respect to the temporary insole A and the permanent shank piece C, I next proceed to fasten said upper to the stay B and the shank piece C, for which purpose it is desirable to employ a line of staples E, shown in Figures 2 and 3, or by stitching or cementing, Along the shank piece the staples pass through the upper and the lip a, see Figures 5 and 7, but along the temporary insole adjacent the margin thereof, the staples do not enter or pass through embodies an anvil adapted to be inserted be-.

low the infolded upper margin and below one edge portion of the stay for the purpose of clenching the staples, then the operator should so manipulate the upper with respect to the tacks d that the upper and the stay are stapled in the intervals between the tacks, and if required to apply the staples close together for the full length of the upper margin as indicated in Figure 2, then and in that event the tacks d should be temporarily withdrawn and reinserted as and when necessary. In any event, the attachment of the upper by stapling to the stay can be performed in a manner sufiicient to retain the upper in the required relation to the stay and the insole.

The upper having been 'stapledor otherwise secured to the shank piece and to the stay, the upper is trimmed by cutting away the excess or surplus material shown in Figure 2,

the line of the trim or out being intermediate 4 the series of lasting tacks (2Z and the series of staples E 'so that the upper is trimmed close to the row of staples E so as to present a smooth appearance, and such trimming operation being performed advantageously while the whole surface is exposed to' ready access as shown in Figure 2, so that when trimmed the upper presents the smooth and trim ap e pearance of Figure 3. At this stage, it may desirable to pull out the lasting tacks d and to remove the trimmed upper margin from p the insole so as to make provision for the application and attachment of the outsole; but in some circumstances I may use short tacks d and allow the trimmed upper margin to remain attached to the insole during the attachment of the outsole, whereby the tacks d and the trimmed upper margin may be withdrawn with the insole when the latter is dislodged from the shoe, it being apparent that when the last is removed and the outsole is and the last having been removed, said outsole is attached by stitching the same to the upper and to the stay, the seam f passing through said stay, the upper and the outsole, along the forepart of the upper, see Figure 6, and said seam f passing through the shank piece C, the upper and the shank portion of the outsole, see Figure 7 It will be seen that at the forepart of the shoe to be produced the upper and the outsole are fastened in a permanent manner to the stay B by the seam f, and that this stay B is temporarily held on the temporary insole A by a chain stitch b or its equivalent. It is now desirable to dislodge the temporary insole, for which purpose it becomes necessary to pullout the thread of scam I) in order. to

detach the temporary insole A from the permanently attached stay B, the operation of so pulling out the thread of seam 12 being indicated in Figures 6, and 8, after which the temporary insole A is gripped and pulled out of the upper, at which time the trimmed upper margin and the lasting tacks 03 may be also be removed from the upper by the operation of dislodging the temporary insole.

As indicated in Figures 6 and 8, the outsole F is provided in one face thereof with an undercut or channel 9 in which lies the lasted and trimmed margin of the upper and the narrow stay so that the inner surface of the resulting shoe remains in a smooth condition after the dislodgment of the temporary insole. .In this connection it may be stated that 1 111 channeling the outsole to produce the channel or undercut g, I may so conduct the channeling operation by the aid of suitable. tools, machinery, or other appliances, that the cut out portion or excised material constitutes the stay B, the same being utilized in the process of producing the shoe.

The stay B is an important feature of my i invention, the stay affording means for staf pling the upper without attachingsaid upper a to the temporary insole during the operations from the upper exposes the stay B on the inner face of the outsole and exposes also the row of staples by which the inner margin of the stay is attached to the up er. It may be and sometimes is desirable o-conceal and protect the staples from contact with the wearers foot, and in this-contingency I may employ a stay composed oftwo pieces of material B B indicated in Figure 9. It will be understood that the double thickness (or two layer) stay B, B, of Figure 9 is prepared prior to assemblage with and attachment to the temporary insole, the two layers B, B, being in lappin relation one to the other and with flush e ges'. Said double thickness stay, or twolayer' stay, is assembled with the temporary insole A in the identical manner-as the single thickness sta of Figures v1, 2, 3 and 4, i. e., the multip e layer stay B, B,-is imposed upon the temporary insole for one edge of the multiple layer stay to extend beyond the edgeof the temporary insole, in the same way as the single thick- 1 ness stay B of Figure lfand thereafter the multiple layer stay B, B, is attached to the temporary insole by a seam b or its equivalent, said seam b, as shown in Figure 1, passing through the two layers B, B, of the mult-iple layer stay intermediate the edges thereof, and said seam 12 passing also through the temporary insole. The scam I) thus opcrates to fasten the middle part of the mult1ple layer stay B, B, of Figure 9, to the temporary insole A of Figure l in the same manner as the single layer stay of Figures 2,

' 3 and 4 is attached to the inso such middle stitching b operatingto fasten the multiple layer stay to the insole in a way to leave the edges of the two layers B, B, free and unattached. k

When lasting the upper, the temporary insole with the multiple layer stayis im osed on a lastand tacked thereto as describe and the upper is lasted for the marginal part of the up er to be .drawn around the edges and over t e double layer stay. To fasten the upper to the stay, it is preferred to staple said upper to one layer only of the multiple layer stay, and in this operation the anvil of a stapling machine is positioned, by the proper manipulation of the shoe in the hands of a skilled laster, to passbetween the two layers B, B,- of the stay, whereby the layer B is stapled to the upper, and hence the staples do not passthrough the part B of said stay. After lasting, the out-sole is sewed to the upper and the two part stay, the seam f passing through the outsole, the upper and the two parts B of the stay, see Figure 9.

"scribed, the two part stay remains attached to the upper and the outsole, constituting a permanent part of the shoe, one layer of said stay being stapled to the upper and the other layer of the stay covering the row of staples so as to protect the wearers foot from possible injur by the staples.

From the foregoing descript1on taken in connection with the drawings it will be noted that in my invention I provide a two part insole, whereof the stay B of Figures 1, 2,

3, 4, 6 and 8 constitutes a marginal insole part, and the layer A, termed herein the temporary insole, of said Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8 constitutes the other insole part, the two said parts AB being prepared as a step in the process-prior to the assemblage of the components of the shoe. These two parts AB of my insole are in separable relation one to the other, and in the procedure as herein disclosed, the marginal insole part B is united with the upper and the outsole so that said part B becomes a unitary part of the resulting shoe,whereas the other partA herein 00 designated the temporary insole) is dis odged by pulling it out of the upper at a certain stages in the disclosed. A

The article resulting from the making of shoes in accordance with my process herein disclosed is not claimed in this application, said article constituting the subject matter of 12y Patent No. 1,593,264, patented July 20, 192

Havin thus fully described the invention, what I c aim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making shoes, the process procedure, all as hereinbef ore which consists in attaching a stay to a temporary-insole, imposing said attached stay and insole upon a last, lasting an upper into lapping relation to said stay, fastening the upper to the stay, said fastening between stay and upper being free. from the insole, trimming the upper, and dislodging said insole from the upper.

2. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling a narrow stay ,ina desired relation to 'a last, lasting an 5 upper into lapping relation to the stay, temporarily fastening the upper to the last' by lasting tacks, stapling the stay and the upper together on a line adjacent the inner .edge ofthe stay, removing excess @terial by trim-' 0 ming the pper in a line intermediate the lasting tac s and the staples-uniting the stay theupp'er and the stay. a 3. In the art of making shoes, the

and the .upper, and attaching an outsole to process which cohsists inattaching astay to the mar passes through theupper and the stay, and-re; moving the insole from the upper, whereby the stay remains attached to the upper and to the outsole.

4. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a stay to the mar ginal portion of a temporary insolefimposing said insole with the attached stay upon a ast, lasting an upper, fastening the stay to the upper adjacent'the free marginal portion of said upper, trimming the free margin of the upper along a line adjacent the attachment of the stay to said upper, sewing an outsole to the upper by a seam which passes through the stay but is free from the insole, and dislodging the insole from the upper,

leaving the stay attached to the upper and the outsole.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a relatively narrow stay to the marginal portion of a temporary insole, the edge portions of said stay being unattached and free,'imposing said insole with the attached stay upon a last, last- ,ing an upper, fastening the stay along its free mner margin to the upper adjacent the free edge of said upper, trimming the upper along a line adjacent the attachment of said stay to said upper, stitching an outsole by a seam which passes through the upper and the stay, and dislodging the insole from said'upper.

6. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a relatively narrow stay to a temporary insole, lasting an upper and attaching the margin thereof to said insole, attaching the upper to the stay independently of the attaching of the upper to the insole, imposing an'outsole on the upper, attaching the outsole and the upper to the stay separately from the'aforesaid attachment of the upper and stay, and removing the insole from the upper.

7. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a stay to a temporary insole, lasting an upper, fastening the upper to said stay, imposing'an outsole upon the upper, fastening the outsole and the upper to said stay ind'ependentlyof the aforesaid attaehment of the upper and stay, and, removing the insole from the upper.

8. In the art of making shoes, the. process which consists in a attaching a stay to a tem porary insole, lasting an upper, attaching said upper and stay by a permanent line of fastenmgs, imposing an outsole upon the upper, at-' ta cliing said outsole and the upper to'the stay by a second line of permanent fastenings extending substantially parallel to the first named line of fastenings, and removing the insole from the upper while allowing the stay to remain attached to the upper and the out sole. is J 9. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling a relatively narrow stay to themarginal portion of a temsembling an outsole relatively to the upper;

fastening the outsole to the upper and to the stay, and dislodging the insole from the upper, thereby leaving the stay attached to t e upper and to the outsole by two lines of fastenings.

10. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling a relatively narrow stay to the marginal portion of a temporary insole, temporarily attaching the stay "to the insole by a chain stitch seam so as to leave free an inner marginal portion of the stay, imposing the'insole with the. attached stay on a last, lasting an upper, stapling the free edge of the stay to the upper along a line adjacent the free marginal portion of said upper, trimming the upper, assembling an outsole relatively to the upper, stitching the outsole by a seam which passes through the upper and the stay, and dislodging the insole from the upper:

11. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assembling a plurality of layers of relatively narrow stay material with respect to the marginal portion of a temposo i rary insole, fastening said layers of stay material to said insole, imposing said insole with the attached stay upon a last, lasting an upper, attaching one layer of the stay material to the upper, stitching anoutsole by a seamwhich passes through the upper and both layers of stay material, and dislodging the insole from the upper, leaving both'layers ofstay material attached to the upper and outsole and with one layer of said stay material covering the line of fastening by which the upper is fastened to the stay material inde pendently of the seam.

12. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a stay of relatively narrow material to a temporary insole, as sembling said insole with the attached stay and with a shank piece in a desired relation to a last, lasting an upper, attaching said up-' per'to, the stay and the shank piece bya line I of fastenings extending through the upper and the stay and also extending through the upper and a, lip provided at the shank piece, stitching an outsole to the upper, the shank piece and the stay, and dislodging the insole from the upper, leaving the stay and the shlank piece attached to the upper and the outso e. *1

' 13. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching a stay of relative- "ly narrow material to a temporary insole, providing a shank piece with a channel and a'lip, assembling the insole and the shank piece in a desired relation to a last, lasting an upper, stapling the upper to the stay and the lip of the shank piece so as to attach said upper independently of said insole, sewing an outsole to the upper, the stay and the shank A piece, and dislodging the insole from its position within the upper.

14. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists inchanneling an outsole to excise therefrom a narrow strip of material adapted to serve as a stay, temporarily attaching said stay to a temporary insole along the marginal portion thereof, imposing said insole with the attached stay upon a last, lasting an upper, fastening the upper to the stay adjacenta marginal portion of said upper, assembling the channeled outsole relatively to the upper, attaching the outsole to the upper by a seam which passes through said stay, and dislodging the temporary insole from said upper.

15. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providing a two-part insole,

one part of which 1s a marginal part separable from the other part of said insole, imposing said two-part insole upon a last, lasting an upper into lapping relation to the marginal part of said insole, uniting the upper to said marginal part of the insole whereby the said marginal part is unitary with the resulting shoe, and dislodging the other part of said insole from the upper.

16. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providing a two-part insole the parts of which are separable one from the other and one of which parts is in marginal relation to the other part, imposing said two-part insole upon a last, lasting an upper into lapping relation to the marginal part of the insole, fastening the marginal part of the upper to the marginal insole part whereby said marginal insole part is unitary with the resulting shoe, and dislodging the other part of said insole from the upper.

In testimony whereof I have signed 'my name hereto this 2nd day of September, 1920.

I JOHN A. KELLY..