US2063141A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Method of making shoes Download PDF

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Publication number
US2063141A
US2063141A US35338A US3533835A US2063141A US 2063141 A US2063141 A US 2063141A US 35338 A US35338 A US 35338A US 3533835 A US3533835 A US 3533835A US 2063141 A US2063141 A US 2063141A
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Prior art keywords
shoe
insole
ribs
forepart
backing piece
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US35338A
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Charles T Anderson
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LITTLEWAY PROCESS CO
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LITTLEWAY PROCESS CO
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/12Stuck or cemented footwear
    • A43B9/125Stuck or cemented footwear using a temporary protective insole or innersole
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B13/00Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units
    • A43B13/38Built-in insoles joined to uppers during the manufacturing process, e.g. structural insoles; Insoles glued to shoes during the manufacturing process
    • A43B13/39Built-in insoles joined to uppers during the manufacturing process, e.g. structural insoles; Insoles glued to shoes during the manufacturing process with upset sewing ribs
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D25/00Devices for gluing shoe parts
    • A43D25/047Devices for lasting with adhesives or for gluing together insoles and uppers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to shoes and to the man.. ufacture thereof and is illustrated herein with lparticular reference to shoes having flexible foreparts.
  • ⁇ Objects of the invention are to provide improved .methods of making shoes of the type re' ferred to the practice of which is economical,
  • a preferred method of manufacturing shoes in accordance with my invention utilizes an insole comprising a, thin flexible forepart reinforced with a' still backing piece and a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece, the insole having ribs on its outer face to which a shoe upper may be secured to hold it in lasted position.
  • 'Ihe insole is mounted on a last with a shoe upper and the margins of the upper are secured in lasted re- 0 lation to the ribs.
  • the ribs are attached to the insole members by stitches and the margins of the upper are secured to the ribs by staples, the upper being first treated with cement by which it is to be permanently secured in lasted position.
  • a variation of the method utilizes an insole of the above type but having a exible forepart composed of material such as leather which is suitable to remain permanently in the shoe to serve as a support and cushion for the foot.
  • the thin leather forepart member may be attached to a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece and a pair of lasting ribs secured to their outer faces by stitches.
  • the thin leather g forepart may then be reinforced by a relatively stiff backing piece such as fiber, leather board or the like, and mounted on a last with the backing piece against the last bottom. Since the ribattaching stitches do not pass through the backing piece, it may be readily removed from the shoe after an outsole has been applied and the last has been withdrawn from the shoe.
  • the outsole may be attached in any convenient manner '55 to complete the construction of the shoe.
  • the insole members including the backing piece first and then attach the lasting ribs
  • this may be accomplished, in accordance withanother variation of the method, by reducing the width of that portion of the backing piece which extends rearwardly of the ball line of the shoe.
  • the insole members may then be secured together, for example, by rubber cement and the ribs stitched on, the stitches rearwardly of the ball line lying outside the edges of the backing piece.
  • the last may be removedand the loose rear portion of the backing piece grasped and pulled away from the thin leather member forming the forepart of the insole.
  • the backing piece may be separated from said member, however, it is necessary to sever the ribattaching stitches forwardly of the ball line since these stitches pass through both the flexiblev forea part member and the backing piece. As herein illustrated, these stitches are severed during the trimming of the excess portions of the upper and ribs from the shoe bottom. It is within the scope of the invention, however, to break these stitches by yother means or at a different stage in the construction of the shoe, for example, to cut through them with an abrasive during an upper roughing operation prior to laying the outsole.
  • Fig. 1 is an angular view of the members which form the insole of the present invention
  • Fig. 2 is a plan view of the insole members united and having lasting ribs attached thereto;
  • Fig. 3 is a. longitudinal sectional view of the insole on an enlarged scale taken on the line III-III of Fig. 2; l
  • Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view on the line IV-IV of Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view through the shank portion vof a lasted shoe embodying the insole;
  • Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional View through the forepart of the shoe
  • FIG. 7 shows the shoe after the trimming operation
  • Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the forepart of the shoe bottom illustrating the operation of severing the lasting ribs
  • Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view of the shoe with an outsole applied thereto;
  • Fig. 1o is a longitudinal sectional viewer the shoe with the last removed illustrating the mau-v ner in which the vforepart of the insole is removed; l
  • Fig. 12 is an angular view similar to Fig. 1 of insole members forming a modification of the invention
  • Fig. 13 is a transverse sectional view of a shoe embodying the insole of Fig. l2 with the upper lasted and one side of the upper trimmed;
  • Fig. 14 is alongitudinal sectional view of the delasted shoe illustrating the manner of removing the insole backing piece
  • Fig. 15- is an angular view of insole members forming a second modicationvof the invention, the members being united and having lasting ribs attached thereto;
  • Fig. 16 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of a lasted shoeembodying the insole of Fig. 15, one side of the upper being trimmed;
  • Fig. 17 illustrates the shoe after the outsole has been attached by cement
  • Fig. 18 is a longitudinal sectional view of the shoe delasted and the backing piece being removed therefrom;
  • Fig. 19 is a transverse sectional view of a shoe with the insole of Fig. 15 incorporated therein, the outsole of this shoe being attached by stitches.
  • a. laminated insole similar to the type disclosed in, Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,947,031, granted February 13, 1934, on an application filed in the name of William H. Bain. and comprising a shank piece 30 of relatively thick and inexible material such as leather, a forepart member 32 which is relatively thin and flexible and, as herein illustrated, is composed of paper or thin ber board, and-'a thick and relatively stiff backing piece 34 preferably composed of ber board or similar material.
  • the shank piece 30 conforms in outline to the periphery of a last bottom and extends approximately to the ball line ofthe last, the' forward portion of the shank piece being tapered, as shown in Fig.
  • the Vpaper forepart 32 conforms in shape to the periphery of the forepart of a last bottom and extends rearwardly to about the forward end of the shank portion of a shoe so that a considerable portion thereof will overlap the shank piece 3l.
  • the fiber backing piece. 34 conforms in outline to the flexible forepart 32 rearwardly to about theball line, at which portion it is reduced in width to form a rearwardly extending' tab 36.
  • the insole members are assembled in proper relation to eachother and are secured together to form a complete insole 38 by adhesive.
  • adhesive such, for example, as latex or rubber cement
  • the tab portion 33 of the backing piece being left free from cement to facilitate its removal from the shoe, as will be hereinafter explained.
  • strips 40 of fabricv material, such as canvas are Vsecured along the margins of its outer face from about the tip line to the heel v'breast line by stitches 42,'these strips forming ribs to which a shoe upper may be secured in lasted relation to the insole.
  • the marginal portions of the upper 43 from the heel breast line to the ball line are coated at a 'convenient time prior to the lasting .operation with either a waterdispersed rubber. cement or, if desired, .pyroxylin cement which, as herein illustrated, is applied to the inner side of 'thea lining and is introduced between the plies of the upper. Fbrwardly of the ball line ofthe shoe pyroxy'lin cement is introduced between the plies of the upper but none is applied to the inner side of the lining.
  • the cement on the inner side of the upper liningrearwardly of the ball line isindicated in Fig. 5 by the numeral 43 and the pyroxylin cement betweenv the plies forwardly of the ballline is indicated by the numeral 50 in Fig. 6. f
  • the margins of the upper are seized by grippers (not shown) and worked over the margins of the shank piece rearwardly of the ball line and up against the lasting ribs 40. Staples 52 are then inserted through the upper-and ribs while the upper is held under tension, the staples being located-just outside the plane of the central portion of the shank piece 30. Forwardly of the ball line the upper is worked overA the margins of the ilexible insole member 32, which is prevented from wrinkling or shifting position on the last bottom by the ber backing piece 34, and the marginal portions of the upper are brought against the ribs and secured thereto by staples 54, in the manner described above, the staples 54, as shown in Fig. 6, being located'outside the plane of the paper or i'lber forepart member 32.
  • the lasting operation at the sides of both theshank portion and the forepart of the shoe may conveniently be performed by the use of a staple lasting machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No.y 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931.
  • the toe portion of the shoe may be lasted in the manner described above or it may be lasted with the aid of the bed-lasting machine, the marginoftheupperin thiscasebeingheld temporarlly in overlasted position by tacks or by a toe binder of any well-known type.
  • the heel-seat portion of the shoe may be lasted in any usual manner such, for example, as by tacks driven through the upper and shank piece 30 and clenched against the shank piece by the metal a,oes,141
  • the trimming operation consists inu'emovingy the excess portions of the upper 46 and ribs 40 to provide a relatively smooth surface for receiving an outsole.
  • the trimming cut is preferably located inside the staples 54 and substantially in the plane of the exposed surface of' that portion ofthe upper margin which overlies the paper forepart 32. The cut is not located close enough to the plane of the forepart member, however, to sever the stitches 42 by which the rib 40 is secured to the insole.
  • Fig. 'I illustrates Iin section how one side of the shoe will appear after the trimming operation.
  • the shank portion of the shoe may be trimmed in the manner just described although it is usually preferable to trim the excess portions of the uppery and rib outside the line of staples 52 so that the latter will remain in the shank portion of the shoe and thus afford a more secure attachment of the upper to the insole at this portion of the shoe. In either case there will be sufficient space between the remaining portions of the ribs 40 to receive a usual shank piece or stiiener.
  • the next step inthe method comprises severing the remaining portions of the strips or ribs 40 substantially atthe ball line of the shoe to permit removal of the fiber backing piece 34 after an' outsole has been attachedl to the shoe bottom.
  • Fig. .8 illustrates this step of'the process, the remaining portions of the ribs 4U being severed substantially at the ball line by a. knife 56. Care should be exercised in severing the ribs not to cut any substantial portion of the overlasted margins of the upper 46.
  • an outsole 58 from the shoe and the fiber backing piece 34 is.
  • 'I'he outsole 58.15 rounded and channeled in the usual manner preparatory to being permanently attached to the shoe bottom and is then stitched to the shoe bottom by stitches 00, Preferably lock stitches, to complete the construction of the shoe.
  • 'I'he outsole attaching stitches 6I will, of course, pass through the overlasted marginsof the upper and the shank piece 30 at the rear or shank portion of the shoe but will pass ⁇ fth rough only the outsole and stiiened margins of ⁇ the upper at the forepart of the shoe.
  • Fig. 11 illustrates the forepart of the shoe after the outsole ha ⁇ - ⁇ been stitched to the margins of the upper.
  • Figs. l2 to 14, inclusive illustrate a modification of the method for use in cases where it is desired to have a thin flexible insole member remain permanently in the forepart of the shoe to cover the overlastedmargins of the upper and to provide a cushion for the foot.
  • 1an insole is -provided by initially cementing together in overlapping relation a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece 64 and a thin and very flexible forepart member 66 preferably composed of leather such, for example, as. upperleather or calfskin.y
  • the cement used in securing these members together is preferably a relatively light bonding cement such as rubber cement or latex, this being indicated in Fig. l2 by the numeral 6I.
  • a pair of lasting ribs is provided on the outer face of the insole by securing thereto tapes or strips 'l0 by through-and-through stitches 12.
  • a backing piece 14 of fiber or similar material corresponding in outline to the forepart of the insole and extending rearwardly to about the center of its shank portion, is now cemented to the inner surface of the thin, flexible forepart mem-V ber 66 by a light bonding cement/ such as latex.
  • the rear portion of the backing piece 14 is preferably left free so that the removal of the backing piece from the shoe bottom at a later stage vin the method will be facilitated.
  • the insole is mounted on -a last 'I6 with the liber backing piece 14 engaging the last botpart of the shoe ⁇ and rearwardly to the heel breast line.
  • the cement used in lasting the upper is preferably pyroxylin cement although other cements capable of producing a strong permanent bond may be used if desired.
  • The-margins of the upper are worked over the. shank piece anl thin leather forepart 66 and 'are secured by staples- ,from the shoe bottom while at theJ shank portion' of the shoe the cut may, if desired, be located above the staples to permit them to remain in the shoe and thus aiord a stronger attachment of the 1 upper to the insole.
  • the outsole 64 may now be stitched permanently to the shoe bottom in the usual manner. the stitches passing through the .flexible forepart member 66 andthe overlasted margins of the 'upper at the forepart of the shoe.
  • Figs.. 15 to 19, inclusive illustrate.a further modification of the method which may be preferred tothe methods described above since it includes advantageous features of both.
  • the insole of Fig. 15 comprises a relatively thick and' inflexible shank piece -86 and a thin flexible forepart of upper leather or similar material reinforced by a ber backing piece 90, the insole members'being secured together by rubber ce" ment 02 and the backing piece being secured to the forepart member 00 by similar cement 94.
  • the backing piece ,00 is reduced in width from about the ball line of the insole to the rear end of the backing piece to form a tab 06, whereby the backing piece may be later ⁇ removed from l the shoe.
  • Lasting ribs 06 are stitched to the outer faces ofs the insole members v66, 06, the stitches passing through the two thicknesses of materials at the forepart o f the insole but lying outside the tab portion of the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the insole.
  • the insole is mounted on a last backing piece 90 against the last bottom and a shoe upper
  • 00 is applied to the inner sides -of the margins of the lining around the. entire forepart and shank portions of the upper rearwardly-to the heel breast line of the ball line. is preferably located clos i enough to the shoe bottom to sever the rib-attaching stitches $0. At the shank portion of the shoe.
  • the backing piece 90 is grasped by the loose -tab 06 and pulled away from the shoe bottom, as shown in Fig. 18.
  • the act of pulling the backing piece 90 away from the shoe bottom separates the broken stitches 98 at the forepart of the shoe which have been severed either bythe trimming or the roughing operation so that the portions of these stitcheslocated in the backing piece will be removed therewith.
  • the cement ⁇ bond 96 between the backing piece and the flexible forepart member 68 is not as strong as the bond resulting from the pyroxylin cement
  • a shoe is obtained ⁇ similar to. that previously deseribedexcept that severed portions of the rib-attaching stitches 90 are removed with the backing piece 90.
  • 06 may, if desired, be attached to the shoe bottom by through-and-through stitches H2, as illustrated in Fig. 19, rather than by ce ⁇ ment, these stitches being inserted afterthe last is removed and the backing piece 00 is pulled out.
  • the stitches I2 will pass through the shank piece at the rear portion of the shoe and through the margins of the upper and the thin flexible forepart member 00 at the forepart of the shoe, thereby insuring a strong attachment of the outsole without appreciably reducing the flexibility oi! the shoe.
  • the holes in the flexible forepart member 00. caused by the removal of portions of the ribattaching stitches 06 with the backing piece may be covered by a usual slip sole inserted in the shoe bottom and cemented in place inthe customary manner.
  • Thatimprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole comprising a thiniiiexible forepart, a roz backing piece removably secured. thereto and a relatively inflexible shank piece. attaching ribs to the outerA face of the insole, securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to said ribs, trimming oi! the excess portions of the upper and ribs, securing an outsole to the shoe bottom, and removing said backing piece and portions of the ribs secured thereto.
  • That improvement in methods of making 75 y shoes which consists in providing an insole comprising a thin flexible forepart member reinforced by a stii backing piece removably secured thereto, a relatively inexible shank piece and lasting ribs attached to the insoleassembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the forepart backing piece engaging the last bottom, working the upper over the insole into lasted' position against the Aribs, securing the upper to the ribs with staples, trimming oilv the excess portions of the upper and ribs, attaching an outsole, and delasting the'shoe and removing said backing piece together with the forward portions of the ribs and the rib-attaching means.
  • That improvement in methods of -making shoes having flexible oreparts which consists in providing an insole having a forepart oi thin ilexible material reinforced by a relatively stil! backing piece cemented thereto, a shank and heel' piece of relatively thick and inilexible material, and ribs on the outer face oi.' the insole, assembling the' insole with a shoe upper on a last, applying cement to the margins of the upper for holding them in lasted relation to the last bottom and the shank and heel piece, securing the upper in lasted position against the ribs with staples while the cement is setting, trimming the excess portions of the upper and ribs inside the staples after the cement has set thereby removing the staples from the shoe, laying an outsole on the shoe bottom, delasting the shoe and removing the backing piece with the thin flexible forepart secured thereto, and permanently attaching outsole to the shoe bottom.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providinglan insole comprising a paper forepart reinforced by a relatively still.' backing piece cemented thereto and a shank piece of relatively iniiexible material, stitching strips to the margins of the insole to Aprovide lasting ribs, the stitches being located inwardly ofthe edges of the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the insole, assembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the backing piece next to the last bottom.
  • That improvement in methods of makin ⁇ ing strips' to the margins of the insoleto form upper on a last with the backing piece against v shoes which consists in providing an insole having a forepart of thin flexible leather and a rear portion of relatively thick and iniiexible leather, said i'orepart being reinforced by a backing piece oi relatively still liber lightly cemented thereto, stitchingI strips to the margins of the outer lace of theinsole to serve as lasting ribs, the stitches being llocated outside the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the shoe, assembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the .backing piece engaging the last bottom, applying a strong bonding cement to the inner sides of the margins of the upperLworking said margins over the margins of the ⁇ insole and into lasted position against ⁇ the ribs, dnserting staples through the 'upper and ribs to hold the upper in lasted position while the cement'- on itsmarins through and severing the

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Dec. 8, 1936. C, T, ANDERSN 2,063,141
METHOD OF MAKING SHOES -Filed Aug. 8, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet l Dec. 8, 1936. c. T; ANDERSON 2,063,141
METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. s, 1935 s sheets-sheet 2 /M/EN TUN f7/MTM C. T. ANDERSON METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Dec. 8, 1936.
Filed Aug. 8, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Dec. 8, 1 936 LIETHOD F MAKING SHOES Charles T. Anderson, Cincinnati, Ohio, assignor,
by-mcsne assignments, to The Littleway Process Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application August`8, 1935, Serial No. 35,338
9 Claims.
This invention relates to shoes and to the man.. ufacture thereof and is illustrated herein with lparticular reference to shoes having flexible foreparts.
`Objects of the invention are to provide improved .methods of making shoes of the type re' ferred to the practice of which is economical,
simple and eiilcient and which will pr ce shoes that are light and llexible and yet st ong enough to hold their shape during wear.
A preferred method of manufacturing shoes in accordance with my invention utilizes an insole comprising a, thin flexible forepart reinforced with a' still backing piece and a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece, the insole having ribs on its outer face to which a shoe upper may be secured to hold it in lasted position. 'Ihe insole is mounted on a last with a shoe upper and the margins of the upper are secured in lasted re- 0 lation to the ribs. As illustrated, the ribs are attached to the insole members by stitches and the margins of the upper are secured to the ribs by staples, the upper being first treated with cement by which it is to be permanently secured in lasted position. y
After the cement has set .the excess portions of the upper and ribs are trimmed, preferably inside the 'staples to remove them from the shoe bottom. An outsole is then laid on the shoe bottom and the last is removed from the shoe. 'Ihe nal steps in the process herein illustrated include removingthe backing piece from the shoe together with the flexible forepart member, thereby leaving only one layer of sole material at the forepart of theshoe, and permanently attaching the outsole to the shoe bottom.
A variation of the method utilizes an insole of the above type but having a exible forepart composed of material such as leather which is suitable to remain permanently in the shoe to serve as a support and cushion for the foot. As illustrated, the thin leather forepart member may be attached to a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece and a pair of lasting ribs secured to their outer faces by stitches. The thin leather g forepart may then be reinforced by a relatively stiff backing piece such as fiber, leather board or the like, and mounted on a last with the backing piece against the last bottom. Since the ribattaching stitches do not pass through the backing piece, it may be readily removed from the shoe after an outsole has been applied and the last has been withdrawn from the shoe. The outsole may be attached in any convenient manner '55 to complete the construction of the shoe.
-If it is desired to assemble the insole members including the backing piece first and then attach the lasting ribs, this may be accomplished, in accordance withanother variation of the method, by reducing the width of that portion of the backing piece which extends rearwardly of the ball line of the shoe. The insole members may then be secured together, for example, by rubber cement and the ribs stitched on, the stitches rearwardly of the ball line lying outside the edges of the backing piece. After the outsole is laid or, if desired, is permanently attached to the shoe bottom by cement, the last may be removedand the loose rear portion of the backing piece grasped and pulled away from the thin leather member forming the forepart of the insole. In order that the backing piece may be separated from said member, however, it is necessary to sever the ribattaching stitches forwardly of the ball line since these stitches pass through both the flexiblev forea part member and the backing piece. As herein illustrated, these stitches are severed during the trimming of the excess portions of the upper and ribs from the shoe bottom. It is within the scope of the invention, however, to break these stitches by yother means or at a different stage in the construction of the shoe, for example, to cut through them with an abrasive during an upper roughing operation prior to laying the outsole.
With the above and other objects and features in view the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.
In thedrawiugs, I
Fig. 1 is an angular view of the members which form the insole of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a plan view of the insole members united and having lasting ribs attached thereto;
Fig. 3 is a. longitudinal sectional view of the insole on an enlarged scale taken on the line III-III of Fig. 2; l
Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view on the line IV-IV of Fig. 2;
Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view through the shank portion vof a lasted shoe embodying the insole;
Fig. 6 is a transverse sectional View through the forepart of the shoe;
`Fig. 7 shows the shoe after the trimming operation;
Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the forepart of the shoe bottom illustrating the operation of severing the lasting ribs;
Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view of the shoe with an outsole applied thereto;
Fig. 1o is a longitudinal sectional viewer the shoe with the last removed illustrating the mau-v ner in which the vforepart of the insole is removed; l
ll'shows the forepart of the shoe after the outsole has been attached tothe shoe bottom;
Fig. 12 is an angular view similar to Fig. 1 of insole members forming a modification of the invention;
Fig. 13 is a transverse sectional view of a shoe embodying the insole of Fig. l2 with the upper lasted and one side of the upper trimmed;
Fig. 14 is alongitudinal sectional view of the delasted shoe illustrating the manner of removing the insole backing piece;
Fig. 15- is an angular view of insole members forming a second modicationvof the invention, the members being united and having lasting ribs attached thereto;
Fig. 16 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of a lasted shoeembodying the insole of Fig. 15, one side of the upper being trimmed;
Fig. 17 illustrates the shoe after the outsole has been attached by cement;
Fig. 18 is a longitudinal sectional view of the shoe delasted and the backing piece being removed therefrom; and
Fig. 19 is a transverse sectional view of a shoe with the insole of Fig. 15 incorporated therein, the outsole of this shoe being attached by stitches.
In carrying out the method of the present invention there is provided a. laminated insole similar to the type disclosed in, Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,947,031, granted February 13, 1934, on an application filed in the name of William H. Bain. and comprising a shank piece 30 of relatively thick and inexible material such as leather, a forepart member 32 which is relatively thin and flexible and, as herein illustrated, is composed of paper or thin ber board, and-'a thick and relatively stiff backing piece 34 preferably composed of ber board or similar material. The shank piece 30 conforms in outline to the periphery of a last bottom and extends approximately to the ball line ofthe last, the' forward portion of the shank piece being tapered, as shown in Fig. l to prevent the formation of a ridge on vthe shoe bottom. The Vpaper forepart 32 conforms in shape to the periphery of the forepart of a last bottom and extends rearwardly to about the forward end of the shank portion of a shoe so that a considerable portion thereof will overlap the shank piece 3l. The fiber backing piece. 34 conforms in outline to the flexible forepart 32 rearwardly to about theball line, at which portion it is reduced in width to form a rearwardly extending' tab 36.
As disclosed in the patent referred to, the insole members are assembled in proper relation to eachother and are secured together to form a complete insole 38 by adhesive. such, for example, as latex or rubber cement, the tab portion 33 of the backing piece being left free from cement to facilitate its removal from the shoe, as will be hereinafter explained. After the insole members have been secured together tolorm a' complete insole 38, strips 40 of fabricv material, such as canvas, are Vsecured along the margins of its outer face from about the tip line to the heel v'breast line by stitches 42,'these strips forming ribs to which a shoe upper may be secured in lasted relation to the insole. It will be noted in Fig. 2 that the edges of the narrow portion or tab 36 of the backing piece are located inwardlyl lof the stitches 42 which secure the strips 4l to the insole so that the'stitches do not pass through (not shown) being included if desired, is assembled on the last and pulled over, thus preparing the shoe for the lasting operation.
'I'he lasting operation, as herein illustrated, is performed in accordance with the method disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,932,545, granted October 31, 1933, on an vapplication filed in the name of- George Goddu. As
described in that patent the marginal portions of the upper 43 from the heel breast line to the ball line are coated at a 'convenient time prior to the lasting .operation with either a waterdispersed rubber. cement or, if desired, .pyroxylin cement which, as herein illustrated, is applied to the inner side of 'thea lining and is introduced between the plies of the upper. Fbrwardly of the ball line ofthe shoe pyroxy'lin cement is introduced between the plies of the upper but none is applied to the inner side of the lining. The cement on the inner side of the upper liningrearwardly of the ball line isindicated in Fig. 5 by the numeral 43 and the pyroxylin cement betweenv the plies forwardly of the ballline is indicated by the numeral 50 in Fig. 6. f
As described inthe Goddu patentreferred to, the margins of the upper are seized by grippers (not shown) and worked over the margins of the shank piece rearwardly of the ball line and up against the lasting ribs 40. Staples 52 are then inserted through the upper-and ribs while the upper is held under tension, the staples being located-just outside the plane of the central portion of the shank piece 30. Forwardly of the ball line the upper is worked overA the margins of the ilexible insole member 32, which is prevented from wrinkling or shifting position on the last bottom by the ber backing piece 34, and the marginal portions of the upper are brought against the ribs and secured thereto by staples 54, in the manner described above, the staples 54, as shown in Fig. 6, being located'outside the plane of the paper or i'lber forepart member 32.
The lasting operation at the sides of both theshank portion and the forepart of the shoe may conveniently be performed by the use of a staple lasting machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No.y 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931.
The toe portion of the shoe may be lasted in the manner described above or it may be lasted with the aid of the bed-lasting machine, the marginoftheupperin thiscasebeingheld temporarlly in overlasted position by tacks or by a toe binder of any well-known type. The heel-seat portion of the shoe may be lasted in any usual manner such, for example, as by tacks driven through the upper and shank piece 30 and clenched against the shank piece by the metal a,oes,141
. ball line of the shoe to become permanently bonded to the margins of the shank piece 30, and the margins of the upper forwardly of the ball line to become stiff enough to remain in overlasted position without the aid of external means, such as the staples 54. The shoe is now ready for the trimming operation.
The trimming operation consists inu'emovingy the excess portions of the upper 46 and ribs 40 to provide a relatively smooth surface for receiving an outsole. Around the forepart of the shoe from ball line to ball line, the trimming cut is preferably located inside the staples 54 and substantially in the plane of the exposed surface of' that portion ofthe upper margin which overlies the paper forepart 32. The cut is not located close enough to the plane of the forepart member, however, to sever the stitches 42 by which the rib 40 is secured to the insole. Fig. 'I illustrates Iin section how one side of the shoe will appear after the trimming operation. The shank portion of the shoe may be trimmed in the manner just described although it is usually preferable to trim the excess portions of the uppery and rib outside the line of staples 52 so that the latter will remain in the shank portion of the shoe and thus afford a more secure attachment of the upper to the insole at this portion of the shoe. In either case there will be sufficient space between the remaining portions of the ribs 40 to receive a usual shank piece or stiiener.
'.The next step inthe method comprises severing the remaining portions of the strips or ribs 40 substantially atthe ball line of the shoe to permit removal of the fiber backing piece 34 after an' outsole has been attachedl to the shoe bottom. Fig. .8 illustrates this step of'the process, the remaining portions of the ribs 4U being severed substantially at the ball line by a. knife 56. Care should be exercised in severing the ribs not to cut any substantial portion of the overlasted margins of the upper 46. After the ribs 40 have been v.severed in the manner described, an outsole 58 from the shoe and the fiber backing piece 34 is.
pulled out. .This is accomplished, as illustrated in Fig. 10, by grasping the loosetab 36 of the backing piece and pulling the latter away from thev outsole 58. Sincev the' paper forepart 32 is secured to the ber backing piece by fcement, it will be removed with the backing piece except for such portions as may possibly have adhered to the upper as a result o f cement penetrating the upper lining in the lasting operation. The portions of the trimmed lasting ribs 40 forwardly of the ball line will also come out of the shoe with the backing piece and forepart member since these portions are still secured-to the forepart member and backing piece by the stitches 42,.. the rear portions of the ribs, which are secured to the leather shank piece vSII, having been severed from the forward portions, as described above. Accordingly, the entire insole at the forepart of the shoe is removed to expose -the inner surface of the outsole surrounded only bythe overlasted marginal portions of the upper. Since the overlasted margins of the upper have been stiifend by the pyroxylin cement 50, they will retain the ;3 shape of the last upon which they were formed and thus take the place of an insole at the forepart of the shoe.
'I'he outsole 58.15 rounded and channeled in the usual manner preparatory to being permanently attached to the shoe bottom and is then stitched to the shoe bottom by stitches 00, Preferably lock stitches, to complete the construction of the shoe. 'I'he outsole attaching stitches 6I will, of course, pass through the overlasted marginsof the upper and the shank piece 30 at the rear or shank portion of the shoe but will pass \`fth rough only the outsole and stiiened margins of\`the upper at the forepart of the shoe. Fig. 11 illustrates the forepart of the shoe after the outsole ha\-\\been stitched to the margins of the upper. Since there is only one thickness of sole at the .forepartpf the shoe, this portion will be extremely light and ilexible. Moreover, since pyroxylin cement hasstiifened the over-lasted niar-v ginal portion of the upper at the forepart of the shoe, there will be no danger of such portion losing its shape and pulling away from the outsole. A usual slip sole can, of course, be inserted in the shoe to cover the exposed marginsof the upper 46.
Figs. l2 to 14, inclusive, illustrate a modification of the method for use in cases where it is desired to have a thin flexible insole member remain permanently in the forepart of the shoe to cover the overlastedmargins of the upper and to provide a cushion for the foot. As illustrated in Fig. 12,1an insole is -provided by initially cementing together in overlapping relation a relatively thick and inflexible shank piece 64 and a thin and very flexible forepart member 66 preferably composed of leather such, for example, as. upperleather or calfskin.y The cement used in securing these members together is preferably a relatively light bonding cement such as rubber cement or latex, this being indicated in Fig. l2 by the numeral 6I. A pair of lasting ribs is provided on the outer face of the insole by securing thereto tapes or strips 'l0 by through-and-through stitches 12. A backing piece 14 of fiber or similar material, corresponding in outline to the forepart of the insole and extending rearwardly to about the center of its shank portion, is now cemented to the inner surface of the thin, flexible forepart mem-V ber 66 by a light bonding cement/ such as latex. The rear portion of the backing piece 14 is preferably left free so that the removal of the backing piece from the shoe bottom at a later stage vin the method will be facilitated.
The insole is mounted on -a last 'I6 with the liber backing piece 14 engaging the last botpart of the shoe` and rearwardly to the heel breast line. The cement used in lasting the upper is preferably pyroxylin cement although other cements capable of producing a strong permanent bond may be used if desired. The-margins of the upper are worked over the. shank piece anl thin leather forepart 66 and 'are secured by staples- ,from the shoe bottom while at theJ shank portion' of the shoe the cut may, if desired, be located above the staples to permit them to remain in the shoe and thus aiord a stronger attachment of the 1 upper to the insole. Since the flexible forepart 66 is to remain in the shoe, the portion thereof inwardly of the trimmed edges of the upper margins and ribs may, if necessary, be covered with filler material 82 (Fig. 14) to level the forepart of the shoe for receiving an outsole.' An outsole 8l is laid on the shoe bottom in the usual manner and.
after the sole-laying cement has set, the last 16,
is removed. The loose rear portion of the fiber ber 66 and the overlapping shank piece 64, these ribsand the stitches securing them will not 'interfere with the removal of the backing piece.'
The outsole 64 may now be stitched permanently to the shoe bottom in the usual manner. the stitches passing through the .flexible forepart member 66 andthe overlasted margins of the 'upper at the forepart of the shoe.
Figs.. 15 to 19, inclusive, illustrate.a further modification of the method which may be preferred tothe methods described above since it includes advantageous features of both. The insole of Fig. 15 comprises a relatively thick and' inflexible shank piece -86 and a thin flexible forepart of upper leather or similar material reinforced by a ber backing piece 90, the insole members'being secured together by rubber ce" ment 02 and the backing piece being secured to the forepart member 00 by similar cement 94. As illustrated in Fig. 15 the backing piece ,00 is reduced in width from about the ball line of the insole to the rear end of the backing piece to form a tab 06, whereby the backing piece may be later` removed from l the shoe. Lasting ribs 06 are stitched to the outer faces ofs the insole members v66, 06, the stitches passing through the two thicknesses of materials at the forepart o f the insole but lying outside the tab portion of the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the insole.
The insole is mounted on a last backing piece 90 against the last bottom and a shoe upper |02 including a lining is assembled on the last and pulled over in the usual manner. Pyroxylin or other suitable cement |00 is applied to the inner sides -of the margins of the lining around the. entire forepart and shank portions of the upper rearwardly-to the heel breast line of the ball line. is preferably located clos i enough to the shoe bottom to sever the rib-attaching stitches $0. At the shank portion of the shoe. where the stitches 00 do not pass through the m with me -margins of the upper is leveled if necessary by filler material ||0, the usual shank stiiener is applied and, after the cement on thepmargins of the outsole has been activated by a solvent, the outsole is located lon the shoe bottom and pressed into permanent attachment therewith, this operation being conveniently performed, for example, with the aid of a machine of the type disclosed in an application for Letters Patent of the United States, Serial No. 636,202, led October 4,
1932, in the names of Milton H. Ballard, et al.`
After the attachment of the outsole, the last is removed from the shoe and the backing piece 90 is grasped by the loose -tab 06 and pulled away from the shoe bottom, as shown in Fig. 18. The act of pulling the backing piece 90 away from the shoe bottom separates the broken stitches 98 at the forepart of the shoe which have been severed either bythe trimming or the roughing operation so that the portions of these stitcheslocated in the backing piece will be removed therewith. The cement` bond 96 between the backing piece and the flexible forepart member 68 is not as strong as the bond resulting from the pyroxylin cement |03 which ,secures the margins of the upper in lasted relation to the exible insole -member 88 so that the backing piece 90 is easily broken away from its attachment to said insole member while the latterA remains permanently attached to the overlasted margins of the upper. Thus, a shoe is obtained` similar to. that previously deseribedexcept that severed portions of the rib-attaching stitches 90 are removed with the backing piece 90.
The outsole |06 may, if desired, be attached to the shoe bottom by through-and-through stitches H2, as illustrated in Fig. 19, rather than by ce` ment, these stitches being inserted afterthe last is removed and the backing piece 00 is pulled out. The stitches I2 will pass through the shank piece at the rear portion of the shoe and through the margins of the upper and the thin flexible forepart member 00 at the forepart of the shoe, thereby insuring a strong attachment of the outsole without appreciably reducing the flexibility oi! the shoe. The holes in the flexible forepart member 00. caused by the removal of portions of the ribattaching stitches 06 with the backing piece may be covered by a usual slip sole inserted in the shoe bottom and cemented in place inthe customary manner.
Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the-United States is: 1
1. Thatimprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole comprising a thiniiiexible forepart, a stift backing piece removably secured. thereto and a relatively inflexible shank piece. attaching ribs to the outerA face of the insole, securing a shoe upper in lasted relation to said ribs, trimming oi! the excess portions of the upper and ribs, securing an outsole to the shoe bottom, and removing said backing piece and portions of the ribs secured thereto.A
narrow tab portion 06, the trimming eutmay, if 2. That improvement in methods of making 75 y shoes which consists in providing an insole comprising a thin flexible forepart member reinforced by a stii backing piece removably secured thereto, a relatively inexible shank piece and lasting ribs attached to the insoleassembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the forepart backing piece engaging the last bottom, working the upper over the insole into lasted' position against the Aribs, securing the upper to the ribs with staples, trimming oilv the excess portions of the upper and ribs, attaching an outsole, and delasting the'shoe and removing said backing piece together with the forward portions of the ribs and the rib-attaching means.
3.'That improvement -in' methods of making shoes having exible foreparts which consists in providing an insole comprising a forepart ot thin iiexible material reinforced by a relatively still' vbacking piece removably secured thereto, a shank and heel portion of relatively thick inexible material and strips attached to the outer face of the insole to form lasting ribs, assembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the backing piece engaging the last bottom, applying cement for securing 'the upper in lasted position, working the upper over the margins of the insole and intov lasted position against the ribs, inserting staples through the upper and ribs to insure that the upper will be held in lasted position while the cement is setting, trimming the upper and ribs inside the staples after the cement has set thereby removingy said staples from the sh'oe bottom, attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom, and thereafter delasting the shoe and Vremoving 'said backing piece together with the portions oi' the ribs and rib-attaching means which are secured thereto.
4. 'I'hat improvement in methods oi' making shoes which consists in providing an insole having a forepart of thin flexible material reinforced by a relatively stii backing piece cemented thereto, an integral shank and heel portion of relatively thick and inexible material and ribs on the outer face of the insole, assembling the insole with a shoe.up'per on a last, applying cement to the margins of the upper for `holding them in lasted relation to the last bottom, securing the upperin lasted position against the ribs with staples while the cement is setting, trhnming the excess portions of the upper and ribs inside the staples after the cement has set thereby removing the staples from the shoe, securing an outsole to the shoe bottom, and delasting the shoe and removing the thin flexible forepart and the stii! backingv piece.
5. That improvement in methods of -making shoes having flexible oreparts which consists in providing an insole having a forepart oi thin ilexible material reinforced by a relatively stil! backing piece cemented thereto, a shank and heel' piece of relatively thick and inilexible material, and ribs on the outer face oi.' the insole, assembling the' insole with a shoe upper on a last, applying cement to the margins of the upper for holding them in lasted relation to the last bottom and the shank and heel piece, securing the upper in lasted position against the ribs with staples while the cement is setting, trimming the excess portions of the upper and ribs inside the staples after the cement has set thereby removing the staples from the shoe, laying an outsole on the shoe bottom, delasting the shoe and removing the backing piece with the thin flexible forepart secured thereto, and permanently attaching outsole to the shoe bottom.
6. 'I'hat improvement in methods of 'making shoes which consists in providing an insole comprising a forepart of paper reinforced bya relatively stii! fiber backing piece cemented thereto, a shank and heel piece oi relatively inexible leather, and strips stitched to the outer face of the insole to provide lasting ribs, assembling the insole and a multi-'ply upper. on a last with the backing piece engaging the last bottom, applying Vcement between the plies of the upper margins,
working said margins into lasted position over theinsole and securing them with staples to the ribs to insure that the upper will beheld in lasted setting,trimming the excess portions of the upper and ribs .inside the staples after the cement has set thereby removing the staples from the shoe bottom, laying an outsole, delasting the shoe and removing the backing piece and the paper iorepart, and stitching the outsole to the shoe bottom.
7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providinglan insole comprising a paper forepart reinforced by a relatively still.' backing piece cemented thereto and a shank piece of relatively iniiexible material, stitching strips to the margins of the insole to Aprovide lasting ribs, the stitches being located inwardly ofthe edges of the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the insole, assembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the backing piece next to the last bottom. applying cement for holding the margins of the upper in lasted position, working said margins over the insole and into lasted position against the ribs, inserting staples through the upperv and ribs toA hold the upper iin lasted position while the cement is setting, trimming the upper and ribs inside the line of staples after the cement has set thereby removing the staples from the shoe bottom, severing the remaining portions of the ribs at the ball. line oi the insole, laying an outsole, removing the rposition while the cement vbetween the plies is 8. 'Ihat improvement lin methods of making shoes which consists in providing an insole having a thin exible iorepart member and a relatively thick and inflexible rear portion, said i'orepart member being reinforced by a stili backing piece removably secured thereto, stitchlasting ribs, assembling the insole and a shoe the last bottom, applying cement to the margins Aof theupper for securing them'in lasted relaand removing the backing piece but leaving the' ilexible forepart member in the shoe. 9. That improvement in methods of makin `ing strips' to the margins of the insoleto form upper on a last with the backing piece against v shoes which consists in providing an insole having a forepart of thin flexible leather and a rear portion of relatively thick and iniiexible leather, said i'orepart being reinforced by a backing piece oi relatively still liber lightly cemented thereto, stitchingI strips to the margins of the outer lace of theinsole to serve as lasting ribs, the stitches being llocated outside the backing piece rearwardly of the ball line of the shoe, assembling the insole and a shoe upper on a last with the .backing piece engaging the last bottom, applying a strong bonding cement to the inner sides of the margins of the upperLworking said margins over the margins of the`insole and into lasted position against` the ribs, dnserting staples through the 'upper and ribs to hold the upper in lasted position while the cement'- on itsmarins through and severing the rib-securing stitches 5 at the forepart'of the shoe, laying an outsole on the shoe bottom, delasting the shoe, breaking the cement bond between the backing piece and the thin leather iorepart, and pullin'g the backing piece from the shoe together with the portions 10 of the stitches which are located therein.
' ci'unuzs r. ANDERSON.
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2518547A (en) * 1947-07-23 1950-08-15 Joseph A Hill Manufacture of shoes
US2809450A (en) * 1954-11-24 1957-10-15 United Shoe Machinery Corp Flexible insoles provided with removable forepart stiffening means

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2518547A (en) * 1947-07-23 1950-08-15 Joseph A Hill Manufacture of shoes
US2809450A (en) * 1954-11-24 1957-10-15 United Shoe Machinery Corp Flexible insoles provided with removable forepart stiffening means

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