US2063175A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 8, 1936. J, Q LlsBON, SR 2,063,175

METHOD OF MAKNG SHOES Original Filed Nov. 6, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 WEN'TUQ:

, Dec. s, 1936.`

J. C. LISBON, SR

METHOD 0F MAKING sHoEs original Filed Nov. 6, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 8, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES Application November 6, 1934, Serial No. '751,736 Renewed September 26, 1935 17 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and to methods of making shoes and is illustrated herein with reference to shoes the uppers of which are secured in overlasted position by cement.

A novel method of making shoes having their uppers secured in o-verlasted relation to insole members by cement is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,932,545, granted Oct. 31, 1933, upon an application filed in the name of George Goddu. In practicing the method of that patent there is provided a full length insole having ribs extending from its heel breast line to its tip line to which a shoe upper may be temporarily secured while the cement on the marginal portions of the upper and on the insole is setting to hold the upper permanently in lasted relation to the insole. The upper is temporarily secured to the ribs by staples which are driven through the upper and ribs while the upper is under tension so that it will be held rmly in lasted relation to the insole while the cement is setting. After the cement has set the upper and ribs are trimmed oil substantially flush with the outer surface of that portion of the upper Which overlies the margins of the insole thereby removing the ribs, excess upper materials and the staples from the bottom surface of the shoe. The lasting at the toe end of the shoe is preferably done with cement and at the heel portion with tacks. An outsole is then attached either by cement or by through-and-through stitches and the shoe is completed in the usual manner.

An object of the present invention is to provide an improved method of making shoes of the type referred to which, Without sacrificing any of the advantages of the method outlined above, will produce shoes having greater flexibility at their foreparts.

In one of its aspects the method of the present invention consists in assembling on the bottom of a last a permanent insole member comprising a shank and heel piece, this member, as illustrated herein, being preferably of leather reinforced at its heel seat portion with a relatively stiff material, such as fiber, and being channeled at its shank portion to provide a pair of ribs to Which a shoe upper may be temporarily secured, for example, by staples to hold it in lasted position While the cement which is to secure it permanently in such position sets. In accordance with the method herein illustrated there is also provided at the toe end of the last another permanent insole member comprising a toe-shaped piece of leather or similar material which extends rearwardly to about the tip line of the last. As indicated above these insole members form permanent parts of the shoe and thus assist in retaining the shape of the shoe.

In order to produce increased flexibility at the forepart of the shoe there is provided, in accordance with another aspect of the invention, a temporary forepart member which, as illustrated herein, is mounted on the bare last bottom between the permanent shank and heel piece and the toe piece. This temporary forepart member is preferably composed of relatively stiff material such, for example, as liber, and is considerably narrower than the last so that when mounted thereon it will leave exposed substantial areas at the margins of the bare last bottom o-ver which the shoe upper may be Worked into lasted position. As herein illustrated, the forepart member is provided at its opposite edges with upstanding flanges which serve as ribs to which the upper may be secured, for example, by staples to hold it in lasted position While the cement on its margins sets to stiffen the margins and cause them to remain permanently in overlasted position. As illustrated, the ribs are so located that they form continuations of the ribs on the shank and heel piece.

The cement for securing the upper in lasted position is applied to the margins of the shank portion of the upper in the manner disclosed in the patent previously referred to, that is, cement is introduced between the plies of the upper materials and is also applied to the inner side of the lining to cause the lining to adhere to the feather portions of the permanent shank and heel piece. At the orepart of the upper the cement is introduced between the layers or plies of the upper materials but none is applied to the inner side of the lining so that the margins of the upper will stiifen suiiiciently to hold the upper in lasted position on the last Without causing the lining to stick to the margins of the bare last bottom.

After the cement has set a trimming operation is performed to remove the excess of upper materials, the ribs and the staples from the bottom of the shoe. At the shank portion of the shoe the excess upper materials and ribs are preferably severed substantially flush with the outer surfaces of those portions of the upper which overlie the feather portions of the permanent shank and heel piece. At the forepart of the shoe the upper may be cut along the creases formed at the angles between the ribs and the bottom surface of the last thus separating the excess marginal portions of the upper from the stiffened portions which overlie the last bottom. rIhe temporary forepart member is then removed from the last bottom with the excess portions of the upper secured theretothereby removing the staples from the forepart of the shoe and leaving the bare last exposed inwardly of the overlasted margins of the upper. An outsole may be attached either by cement or by throughand-through stitches, the last, in the latter case, being removed from the shoe to .permit the insertion of the stitches.

It will be seen that the present method of making shoes retains the advantages of the method referred to above and in addition provides a shoe having greater flexibility at the ball portion of its forepart by eliminating the use of an insole at such portion. The permanent insole members at the toe, shank and heel portions of the shoe and the cement between the layers of upper materials at the ball portion thereof strengthen the margins of the upper sufciently to prevent the shoe from going out of shape while it is being worn even without an insole at its forepart.

With the above and other objects and features in View the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe in process of construction in accordance with the present invention, the upper being broken away to show details of the construction more clearly;

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line II--II of Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a perspective View of the shoe after the upper has been secured in lasted position;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view of the forepart of the shoe taken on the line IV-IV of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line V-V of Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing the shank portion of the shoe trimmed and illustrating a method of trimming the excess portions of the upper at the forepart of the shoe;

Fig. '7 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 6 showing the temporary insole member being removed with the excess portions of the upper secured thereto;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional View through the -forepart of the shoe after the temporary insole member has been removed;

Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line IX--IX of Fig. 7;

Fig. l is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of the shoe showing an outsole attached by cement; and

Fig. 1l. is a sectional View similar to Fig. 10 but showing an outsole attached by through-andthrough stitches.

In lpractising the present method of making cement lasted shoes having flexible foreparts there is provided a last 2i) upon the bottom surface of which are removably secured permanent insole members 22 and 24. The insole member 22, which is4 located at the toe end of the last, conforms in shape to the periphery of the last bottom and extends rearwardly substantially to the tip line, its rear portion being skived to a thin edge. It is secured to the last bottom by temporary tacks 26 which may be pulled out to permit removal of the last from the finished shoe. The insole member 24, as shown in Fig. 1, comprises a shank and heel piece, preferably of leather, which conforms to the shape of the shank and heel portions of the last bottom and is temporarily secured thereon by tacks 28. The front end portion of the shank and heel piece is .preferably skived to a thin edge 29 and the heel seat portion is reinforced on its exposed surface with a piece of fibre 353 which extends to about the heel breast line and is beveled adjacent to such portion to prevent the formation of a shoulder or ridge on the bottom surface of the shoe. Forwardly of the fibre piece 3D the opposite margins of the member 24 are channeled inwardly from its edge faces for distances substantially equal to the lasting allowances usual in cement lasting thereby forming the feather portions 3l, 33. The flaps of these channels are then turned up to form ribs 32, 34 to which the shoe upper may be secured to hold it in lasted relation to the member 24.

A third insole member 36, comprising a piece of relatively stiff material such as fibre which is considerably narrower than the bottom of the forepart of the last but which conforms substantially to the shape of said forepart, is now re.- movably secured by tacks 38 to the bare last bottom between the toe piece 22 and the shank and heel piece 24, as shown in Fig. l. The opposite lateral edges of the member 36 are turned up before it is secured to the last bottom to form flanges or ribs 40, 42 to which the shoe upper may be secured to hold it in lasted position on the last, the ribs 4D, 42, as shown -in Fig. l, being so positioned with respect to the ribs 30, 34 on the shank and heel piece 24 that they coincide with these ribs and form continuations thereof.

A shoe upper 44 comprising an outer leather layer 46, doubler 48, and a lining 513 (Figs. 1 and 2) is now mounted on the last 29 and a counter l is introduced between 'the lining and the doubler. The upper is pulled over in the usual manner and secured at the sides and the toe and heel ends of the last by pulling-over tacks 52 which are shown in Fig. l. Since the upper 44 is to be secured in lasted position by cement the feather portions 3|, 33 of the shank and heel piece 24 will have been roughened slightly and coated with a suitable cement such as pyroxylin cement before the member 24 is mounted on the last, the cement being then allowed to dry. The margins of the toe piece 22 will likewise have been coated with cement before it is temporarily secured to the last bottom. The marginal portions of the upper forwardly of the heel breast line are next treated with cement such, for example, as pyroxylin cement which, at the shank portion of the upper, that is, from the heel breast line to the ball line, is introduced between the layers or plies of the upper materials and is also applied to the inner side of the lining 50. From the ball line to the tip line of the upper the cement is introduced only between the plies, no cement being applied to the inner side of the lining. The cement on the feather portions 3|, 33 of the shank and heel piece and on the margins of the toe piece 22 is now activated by a suitable solvent, thus preparing the shoe for the lasting operation.

In the operation of lasting the shoe, the opposite margins of the upper are first worked over the margins of the bottom surface of the bare last at the forepart and over the feather portions of the shank and heel piece 24 at the rear portion and are then wiped inwardly against the upstanding ribs on the insole members 24 and 36. The marginal portions of the upper are seeured to these ribs by staples which hold the upper in lasted position while the cement which holds the upper permanently in such position sets, this method of lasting being fully described in the. Goddu Patent No. 1,932,545 referred to above. Ay side of the upper is gripped and Worked over the margins of the bare last bottom andthe shank and heel piece and up against the ribsv on said shank and heel piece and temporary member 36. The upper is held under tension while a stapling nozzle forces the marginal portion into the angle between the rib and the last bottom or the feather portion of the shank and heel piece at which time a staple 56 is driven. through the upper materials and rib and isclinched against the inner side of the rib. The upper is lasted in this manner from the heel breast line substantially to the tip line so that the cemented. margins of the upper will be held. rmly in lasted position while the cement issetting to secure them permanently in such position. After the cement has set the overlasted. margins at the shank portion of the upper will be securely'cemented to the feather portions 3l, 33v of the shank and heel piece 24 and the cement between the plies of the upper at the f-orepart adjacent to the temporary member 35 will have stiffened these margins sufficiently to cause them to remain permanently in overlasted position without the aid of the staples which secure them to the member 35.

As disclosed in the patent mentioned, the toe portion of the upper is preferably secured in lasted. relation to the permanent toe piece 22 by wiping in the margins of the upper over the toe piece with the aid of toe-embracing wipers such as are provided in the bed lasting machine and then holding the marginal material, including a box toe, in overlasted position until the cement at the toe portion of the upper sets by means of the Wipers themselves or by a separate toe plate or binder such, for example, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,894,678, granted January 17, 1933, on an application filed inthe name of Joseph Fausse. At the heel seat portion of the shoe the upper may be secured in lasted position in any usual manner such as by lasting tacks 58, as shown in Fig. 3, the tacks being clinched on the metal plate on the heel portion of the last bottom. After the shoe has remained in this condition for a time sufficient to insure that the cement has completely set and the upper has taken the shape of the last, the toe plate or other securing means is removed from the toe end of the shoe.

The shoe is now ready for a trimming operation which will remove the excess upper materials and ribs from the forepart and shank portions of the shoe and thus leave a relatively smooth surface on the shoe bottom for the attachment of the outsole. The trimming operation may be advantageously performed with the aid of a turn shoe trimming machine, the trimming knife passing through the materials below the staples and trimming off the upstanding portions of the upper and ribs substantially flush with the outer surfaces of those portions of the upper which overlie the feather portions 3l, 33 of the insole member 24. Since the trimming knife passes through the materials at an acute angle to the convex surface of the last bottom there will be substantially no hollow or depression left in the bottom, portion of the shoe and, accordingly, no iillery material willf be necessary to produce an even surface for the attachmentl of an outsole. Fig. 6 shows the shank' portion` of the shoe trimmed in the manner described.

While the forepart of the shoe may be trimmed by machine in the manner just described, it may, if desired, be trimmed in the following manner. The operator draws a sharp knife 60 along the upper at the creases which are formed therein at the lines of juncture between the upstanding ribs 4B, 42 and the bottom surface of the last,

thereby cutting through the upper materials and.

separating the portions which are. secured in upstanding position against the ribs from the portions which overlie the bare surface of the last bottom. The temporary forepart member 36` may now be removed from the last bottom by pulling out the tacks 38, thereby removing also the ribs, the excess portions of the upper materials, and the staples by which these portions are secured to the ribs. Removal of the temporary member 36 exposes the bare last bottom at the forepart of the last between the toe piece 22 and the shank and heel piece 24 so that kthere will be no insole in this portion of the nished shoe. The forepart of the shoe is thus' rendered' much more flexible than it is in a shoe having both an insole and an outsole at the forepart. Figs. 8 and 9 illustrate respectively how the forepart and shank portion oi the shoe will appear in section after the temporary member 36 has been removed and the shank portion of the shoe.

has been trimmed.

The shoe is now ready for the attachment of an outsole and, accordingly, the overlasted marginal portions of the upper are scoured or roughened in the usual manner and'coated with an adhesive, such as pyroxylin cement, and' the marginal portions of an outsole 62 aresimilarly treated. The outsole is laid in position on the shoe bottom and pressure is applied to force the sole firmly against the cemented portions of the upper, the pressure being maintained until the cement has set to cause the outsole to become permanently attached to the shoe bottom. While it is preferable to attach the outsole by cement in the manner described, since it may be done without delasting the shoe, it should be understood that the outsole may, if desired, be attached by through-and-through stitches, as shown in Fig. 11', in which case, of course, the last will be removed from the shoe after the trimming operation has been performed to permit the insertion of the sole attaching stitches.

Havingdescribed my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in methods of making shoes having uppers secured in overlastedv position by cement, which consists in assemblingl on the bottom of a last a shank and heel piece' and a forepart member which is narrower than the last bottom and has ribs at its opposite edges, mounting a shoe upper on the last, applying cement to the margin of said upper, securing the shankV portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, working the margins of the forepart of the upper over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold said margins in lasted position While the cement sets, and removing said forepart member and the portions of the upper that are secured thereto from the last bottom.

2. That improvement in methods of,- making shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom surface of a last a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having ribs at its opposite edges, said ribs being spaced inwardly from the corresponding edges of the last bottom and ex posing the marginal portions thereof, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the opposite margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, introducing cement between the plies of the upper at the margins o1 its forepart, wiping said margins over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold said margins in lasted po sition until the cement sets, and removing the forepart member from the last bottom together with the portions of the upper that are secured thereto.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom of a last a toe piece and a shank and heel piece, mounting a forepart member on the ball portion of the last between the toe piece and the shank and heel piece, said member covering the intramarginal portion of the last bottom and having ribs at its opposite edges, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the opposite margins of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, applying cement to the margins of the forepart of the upper, lasting the toe end of the upper to the toe piece by cement, working the margins of the ball portion of the upper over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold said portion in lasted position while the cement on its margins sets, and, after the cement has set, removing said forepart member from the bottom of the last together with the portions of the upper which are secured thereto.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom of a last a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having its opposite marginal portions turned up to form ribs at its opposite sides, said ribs being located inwardly of the edges of the last bottom a distance substantially equal to the lasting allowance provided in a cement lasted shoe, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, introducing cement between the plies of the upper at the margins of its forepart, working said margins over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold the upper in lasted position while the cement on its 4margins sets, cutting the forepart of the upper along the lines of juncture between the ribs and the bare last bottom, and removing the forepart member from the bottom of the last with the severed portions of the upper secured thereto.

5. 'Ihat improvement in methods of making shoes having uppers secured in overlasted position by cement, which consists in assembling a shank and heel piece on a last bottom with a forepart member having ribs at its opposite sides and no feather portion, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the opposite margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, working the margins of the forepart of the upper over the bare margins of the last bottom and attaching them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold said margins in lasted position while the cement for holding them permanently in such position sets, trimming off the ribs on the forepart member and the portions of the upper secured thereto substantially flush with the overlasted portions'of the upper, and removing the forepart member from the last bottom.

6. That improvement in methods of mak'i'ng shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom of a last a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having upstanding ribs at its opposite edges, said ribs being spaced inwardly from the corresponding edges of the last bottom a distance substantially equal to the lasting allowance provided in cement lasted shoes thereby exposing the margins of the last bottom, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the margins of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, applying cement between the plies at the margins of the ball portion of the upper, working said margins over the exposed margins of the last bottom and into upstanding position against the ribs on the forepart member, securing the margins of the upperto said ribs to hold them in contact with the bare margins of the last bottom while the cement sets to stiien the margins of the upper and hold them permanently in such position, separating the upstanding portions of the upper from the overlasted portions thereof. and removing the forepart member and the separated portions of the upper from the last bottom.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on the botto-m of a last a shank and heel piece and a forepart lmember having ribs along its opposite edges, said member being narrower than the last bottom so that the marginal portions of the forepart of the last are exposed, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, introducing between the plies of the upper at the margins of its ball portion cement which, when it sets, will stiien said margins, working said margins over the exposed margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold the ball portion of the upper in lasted position while the cement is setting to stiffen the margins of the upper, and thereafter removing from the last bottom the forepart member and the portions of the upper that are secured thereto.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on a last bottom a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having upstanding ribs at its opposite edges and no -feather portion, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, introducing pyroxylin cement between the plies of the upper at the margins of its forepart, working said margins over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold the forepart of the upper in lasted position while thev cement sets to stiiien its margins and hold them permanently in lasted position, cutting the upper along the lines of juncture between the last bottom and the bases of the ribs on the forepart member, and removing said member from the last bottom with the4 vsists in assembling on a last bottom a shank and heel piece having ribs at its shank portion and a forepart member having no feather portion and being provided with ribs which coincide with the ribs on the shank and heel piece, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the marginsof the upper in overlasted position by working them over the bare margins of the last bottom and over the feather portions of the shank and heel piece and attaching them to the ribs on the forepart member and the shank and heel piece until the cement for holding said margins permanently in lasted position sets, trimming the upper and the ribs on the shank and heel piece substantially ush with those portions of the upper which overlie the feather portions o-f said shank and heel piece, and removing the forepart member from the bare last bottom together with the portions of the upper which are secured thereto.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes having uppers secured in overlasted position by cement, which consists in assembling on a last insole members comprising a shank and heel piece having ribs at its shank portion which are spaced inwardly of the feather portions of said member, and a forepart member having its opposite edges turned up to form ribs which coincide with the ribs on the shank and heel piece, thereby exposing the margins of the last bottom, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the upper in overlasted relation to said members by working its margins over the bare margins of the last bottom and over the feather portions of the shank and heel piece and attaching said margins to said ribs until the cement for holding the margins permanently in such relation sets, trimming off the ribs on the shank and heel piece together with the portions of the upper secured thereto, severing the upper along the lines of juncture between the bare last bottom and the ribs on the forepart member, and removing said member from the bottom surface of the last with the severed portions of the upper secured thereto.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on a last bottom a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having its opposite lateral margins turned up to form ribs along its opposite edges, said ribs being located inwardly of the edges of the last bottom to expose the marginal portions thereof, mounting a shoe upper on the last, introducing cement between the plies of the upper at the margins of its forepart, securing the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, working the margins of the forepart of the upper over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member with staples to hold said margins in contact with the bare margins of the last bottom while the cement between the plies of said margins sets, and thereafter removing said forepart member and the portions of the upper which are stapled thereto from the bottom surface of the last.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes having uppers the margins of which are secured in overlasted position by cement, which consists in assembling on the bottom surface of a last a toe piece and a shank and heel piece, mounting a forepart member on the last bottom between the toe piece and the shank and heel piece, said member being narrower than the last bottom so that the opposite margins thereof are exposed and having ribs at its opposite edges, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the upper in lasted position on the last until the cement for holding it permanently in such position sets by working its opposite margins over the bare margins of the last bottom and over the feather portions of the shank and heel piece and attaching said margins to the shank and heel piece and to the ribs on the forepart member, cutting the upper along the lines of juncture between the ribs on the forepart member and the bare surface of the last bottom, and removing said forepart member from the last bottom with the severed portions o-f the upper secured thereto, thereby preparing the shoe for the attachment yof an outsole.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes having uppers secured in overlasted position by cement, which consists in assembling on the bottom of a last a toe piece and a shank and heel piece, mounting a forepart member on the last bottom between the toe piece and the shank and heel piece, said member having upstanding ribs at its opposite edges, said ribs being spaced inwardly from the edges of the last bottom distances substantially equal to the feather portions of an insole, mounting a shoe upper on the last, securing the opposite margins of the shank portion of the upper in overlasted relation to the shank and heel piece, introducing cement between the plies of the upper at the margins of its forepart, Working said margins over the bare margins of the bottom surface of the last and securing them to the ribs on the forepart member to hold the forepart of the upper in lasted position while the cement on its margins is setting, cutting the upper along the lines of juncture between the ribs on the forepart member and the bottom surface of the last, and removing sai-d member from the last bottom with the excess portions of the upper attached thereto.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which cement is employed for securing the margins of uppers in overlasted position, which consists in assembling on the bottom surface of a last insole members comprising a toe piece and a shank and heel piece, the latter having ribs at its shank portion, temporarily securing a forepart member on the ball portion of the last bottom between the toe piece and the shank and heel piece, the opposite marginal portions of said member being turned up to expose the margins of the last bottom and to provide ribs which form continuations of the ribs on the shank and heel piece, mounting a shoe upper on the last, working the upper over the shank and heel piece and the bare margins of the last bottom into lasted position against the ribs on the shank and heel piece and forepart member, inserting staples through the upper and ribs to hold the upper in lasted position until the cement for securing it permanently in such position sets, trimming the ribs and the excess portions of the upper below the staples at the shank portion of the shoe, cutting through the upper along the bases of the ribs on the forepart member, and removing said member from the bottom surface of the last together with the severed portions of the upper.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom of a bare last a shank and heel piece and a forepart member having ribs at its opposite edges, said member being narrower than the last bottom so that the marginal portions thereof will be exposed, mounting a shoe upper on the last, introducing a stiffening cement between the plies of the upper at the margins of its forepart, securing the margins of the shank portion of the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece, Working the margins of the forepart of the upper over the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them with staples to the ribs on the forepart member to hold said iorepart in lasted position until the cement on its margins sets to stiften said margins and cause them to remain permanently in lasted position, trimming the upper andthe ribs on the forepart member below the staples, and removing the forepart member from the last with the excess portions of the upper secured thereto.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling on the bottom of a last permanent insole members comprising a toe piece and a shank and heel piece reinforce-d at its heel seat portion and provided with upstanding ribs located adjacent to the margins of its shank portion, removably securing a ber member between said permanent members on the forepart of the last bottom, said ber member having its opposite marginal portions turned up thereby exposing the margins of the last bottom and forming ribs to which a shoe upper may be secured to hold it in lasted position, sai-d ribs forming continuations of the ribs on the shank and heel piece, applying pyroXylin cement to the margins of a shoe upper for securing said margins permanently in lasted position on the last, working said margins over the feather portions of the shank and heel piece and the bare margins of the last bottom and securing them with staples to the ribs on the fiber member and the shank and heel piece to hold the upper in lasted position until the cement on its margins sets, trimming oi the ribs on the shank and heel piece below the staples to remove the ribs, staples and excess pori tions of the upper from the bottom of the shoe, cutting through the upper along the lines of juncture between the bases of the ribs on the rlber member and the bare last bottom, removing the ber member from the last bottom with the severed portions of the upper secured thereto thereby removing the staples, and permanently attaching an outsole to the overlasted margins of the upper.

17. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling a shoe upper on a last with a shank piece, temporarily fastening a member narrower than the last bottom on the forepart thereof, the Various portions of the periphery of said member being spaced substantially equal distances from the edges of the forepart of the last, applying cement to`the marginal portions of the layers of the upper but omitting it from the inner side of the lining at the forepart, securing the upper in lasted relation to the shank and heel piece and maintaining it so secured while the cement sets, working the forepart of the upper over the margin of the bare last bottom and into lasted position against the narrow forepart member, inserting metallic fastenings through said upper and forepart member to hold the upper in lasted position while the cement on its margin is setting, and trimming the margin of the upper along the line of jointure between the upper and said forepart member to permit removal of said member together with the portions of the upper secured thereto.

JOSEPH C. LISBON, SR.

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