USRE17339E - spalsbury - Google Patents

Description

June 2,5, 1929.

C. B. SPALSBURY METHODl OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES Original Filed April 19. 1922 5 Sheets-Sheet s 'sheets-sheet 2 hommes 5. .SPALsar/ky,

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C. B. SPALSBURY METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES original Filed April 19. 1922 June 2.5, 1929.

, Reissued June 1929.v ,n l Re. gu NITIED STATES PATENT oFFicE. I i CHARLESB, srnnsnonizi or Louis, Missoula; Assreivon froeonivson, srnvnns `ya sHINiiL'E snor: conIPnNY, 'or sfr?. Louis, MissounnnCORPORATION' oF MIssoURil l METHOD orivLAKrive noo'rs'Aivn snons l Original N'o.' 1,5"721142, dated February 9, 1928,' Serial No. 555,588, filed .April 1,9, 1922. Application yfor l v ,reissue viiled November 2, 1927. Serial No. 230,670. l

f hiOh s eed Dreliminar v'l'nachinesand o era-P l .5. t t J Ations and yet tofmanuacture shoes by my prccess,w1th comparatively slight changesy Mypresentinvention relates to the manuy f `facture of boots and shoes and to an improved y boot' or shoeconstruction resulting `from my` vnovel process. `-In carrying outv my present novel process I may utilize a novel typek of lasting machine, shown and described in my copending application, Ser. No. 630,131, filed April 5, 1923, now patent No; 1,580,449, issued April 13, 1926. I have illustrated hereink a portion only `of a lasting machine. adapted for performing the method embodying this invention, in order -to `more clearly describe andv show `the preferred `embodiments and; methods employed in carrying out my present invention. y t. n

In the manufacture oi boots andshoes as at present carriedlout y1n modern factory methods, it is most important to utilize, sov

far as possible, the various established steps,

machinesand recognized labor `conditions a'if-` fecting tliesame, with comparatively slight changes, and I have carried out thiscondition in the development of my present'novel proce ess.

tically all the present well-established and andby the `addition oi' a; single machine or only a few machines, rIt willbe appreciated that the process vcan be carried out by hand,

although I have developed thev novel 'machine above referred toto expedite the methodherein partiallyillustrated anddescribed.

Air important object of my present inveny tion is to manu-actureaboot or shoe which will `be extremely Aflexible and also'to'manu facture a shoe substantially Without lpcrma nent lasting `tacks therein, excepting only at the heel andy toe, itdesired. `In fact, my present shoe and the method of: making same,

produces aresulting iexible product substan? y tial'ly equivalent'in desirability, marketability and quality to the b'estgrades of turn shoe construction, without the turning method,

" while it maystill employ a singlesole, or a laminatedysole with the layers orinsole and outsole portions united.v

Another object isto provide a method n ywhereby the upper is so lasted and retainedv as `to rclosely conform tothe last, while ,obg

viatingto `a large lextent the presence of last-k ingtac'rlrsin the completed shoe.` f

Anothery object is to provide a method In" other Words, I amableto utilize pracwhereby .the lasted upper is temporarily tacked While the latter is held under tension dueto the lastingy so asto be retained in the -desired close conformationto the last.

`f Another object' is to provide a method whereby the upper is retained in conforma` accordance with one embodiment, by wiping the upper over an insole part on ther last and ysubstantially continuously therealong, `as by moving closely spaced Wipers over the insole pai-tand atclosely adjacent points therealong. An outsole part is then'laid on andtemporarily tacked to the lasted upper and while 'the latter' is held under tension due to the wiping; this is accomplished, in accordance with one embodiment, by insert-ing temporary lasting 'tacks 'through the outsole part'into the lasted upper at points between the closely spaced wipers' andwhile the latter areinv wipingrelation. The sole and: upper are thusretained in assembledv .relation and in close lconformity to the last; the wiping means can then be'withdrawn while the parts are so retained. The

last can then be withdrawn and the upper and sole` parts permanently secured together, as by'seaming or stitching through thesole and upper; the lasting taclrscan then be withdrawn; There'is thus provideda'shoe which is not onlyfsubstantially free of tacks, especially -along thief i'erepa'rt, but which conforms closely to the llast on which it was made.v

In carrying out my present method rI may', inV accordance' with one.` embodiment ot this invention, utilize the'usual practice of sorting soles for grade and weight, slnvmg the same.

to a uniform` thickness by any suitable machine or machines, also rounding the soles,

and thenvI specially prepare the same, splitting the sole from the heel to and including the shank portion, as wellas around the mar gin of the iforepart and toe. This forms substantially aninsoley and an outsole portion,

. leaving the grain side of the leather foi-fthe tread surface and outsole part ot the shoe,

which may be of greater or any desired eX- tent of thickness. I may vary this thickness as desired, giving a greater proportion Aof the sole for the tread or outsole part from the shank to the toeportion and a greater thickness or proportion for the shank or heel part on the insole portion, this being readily effected on any well-known splitting machines, with slight changes and adjustments if desired. Preferably I form this marginal split portion around the forepart simply as a cutting or splitting action, but if desired I may also cut out or remove a small thickness of the leather for the purpose of affording room for the upper materials to be lasted and concealed therein as will be vhereinafter more fully described. I may also cut away or trim down the marginal edge of the insole portion, cutting it back slightly to permit the marginal part of the outsole to extend beyond the insole in substantially similar position as a McKay outsole is made to extend over a McKay insole. This operation can be readily effected by any cutting machine, particularly the well-known sole rounders now in general use. Or I may prepare a sole by uniting a separate or usual set of McKay insole and outsole, thus producing soles of layers, or laminated with the. marginal recesses to receive the lasted upper between the layers. The insolewhen prepared is then applied to a last, the upper materials assembled thereon, and pulled over either by hand or machine and thereupon the shoe is lasted. This lasting operation may he effected by hand or/and preferably by my special machine as shown in .said Patent No. 1,580,449, issued April 13, 1926. In either instance the upper materials are pulled over and tacked in lasted position at toe and heel, to the insole portion of the sole, the outsole portion being turned back or raised for this purpose, if desired. The heel and shank may be lasted without difficulty, as the insole member is in proper and convenient and assembled position and the outsole portion split therefrom is readily removable. I contemplate lasting the heel seat by clinching tacks thereon as is customary in welt shoe manufacture, and rthen securing the shank portion by non-metallic means, such for example as by cross-stitching, cementing or the like. This step enables me to make a more flexible shoe and one substantially without lasting tacks throughout the shank and forepart, as well as free of tacks in the shank, if desired.

With the shoe thus partially lasted and the upper secured at heel and toe and preferably at the shank also, I then effect the novel lasting method which is of great importance in this shoe construction. This lasting consists, in accordance with one embodiment of this invention, in forcing the upper materials into the marginal split or recessed portion along each. side of the forepart between the insole and outsole parts of the sole. I contemplate several different methods of accomplishing this lasting action. I may either trim off the upper materials at a point sufficient to allow for the stretching and lasting action and tucking in vthe marginal edge of the upper so as not to bunch or crowd the split portion of the sole; or I may force the upper materials in, leaving the same doubled over the lasting instrumentalities, and then cut off1 the surplus material by the action of a cutting tool, preferably a thin bladed knife, or I may leave the doubled over upper just as thus forced into its marginal edge, particularly if the sole is partly cut away or recessed of suitable thickness to receive this doubled over part of the upper materials. In either method I prefer to secure the lasted upper by a novel process ofdriving lasting tacks or other temporary fastening devices entirely through the outsole and insole portions engaging the upper where doubled over, or cut, into and between the two split portions. This application of lasting tacks is 'made before the lasting instrument is withdrawn, so that the upper is held in its stretched or strained and lasted position directly in the marginal part. With the shoe thus lasted I may then draw the last and apply through anid through stitching in the f same manner as utilized in McKay shoe stitching, uniting the lasted upper to both insole and outsole portions of the sole. This stitching may he put in entirely around the toe, if desired,and around the heel also, but may only be applied from just short of the toe portion along the forepart and shank to the heel portion, the heel seat being preferably tacked and the eXtreme toe portion where pointed models are employed also would ordinarily be tacked. After stitching I remove the lasting tacks, unless .previously7 withdrawn. either method being possible.

The resulting product gives me a novel type of boot or shoe, substantially free of metallic fastenings, lasting tacks or the like, and yet with a strong stitching' and furthermore producing an extremely flexible shoe construction, combining the desirable and eliminating the undesirable features of both the turn and McKay shoe construction. Moreover, the shoe will present a finished appearance and shape, since it conforms closely to the last on which it was made, because the upper was tacked and retained not only while under tension due to the wiping around and over the last, but while the upper was wiped substantially continuously therealong, particularly along the forepart.

The method of making this Ishoe constitutes the novel steps above generally and briefly outlined, particularly the feature of cutting the insole and outsole portions with varying thicknesses; the lasting step and particularly the feature of trimming and cutting the upper llO to lasting; e

\ split or cut portion or vthe recessingof the sole to itthe upper materials; the Vmethodjof ytacking `by temporary stay` or lasting tacks through the upper, insole and outsole;l and more particularly the feature `of wiping the upper overan insole parten the lastf and laying an outsole part ron andtemporarily tacking L the same to the lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to thewiping. This method is distinctly novel, and I wish to claimthe same broadly; l

With the shoe upped` and outsole stitched, it mayfthen be relasted, the .heel applied and shoe finished in any desired manner, by wellr known "methods, processes and established` machines therefor. l .y

` Referringto the drawings, illustrating the preferred embodiment of carrying out my in-` vention, y l l Fig. `1 is a plan view'of my prepared sole; y Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view on the line Fig.` 3 is a longitudinal lsectionalview show` y' ing the insole ofF-igs. 1 and 2 incorporatedin ashjoe';

y"Fig, 4f isa plan view of la lasted shoe show'- c jingthe outsole portion removed at toe and heel iso i with thetoe and heel attached by per* manentlasting tacks; v I' Fig. 5 is acrosssectional viewlillustrating the lasting and showing one method of trimming' the shoe upper along theffo'repart prior Fig. 6r is a f cross-sectional view showing different methods of driving temporary lastinsteCkSf; 1 l F l' g. 7 is a fragmentary cross-sectional'view illustrating lasting along the margin of .the

forepart; l A y Fig. 8 isa cross-sectional View illustrating a completed shoe construction; 'f

Fig, 9. is a' cross-sectional Ione step the-lasting machine method;

- .therein without trimming; and" Fig. 10 being asimilar crossfsection'al view showing the second lasting' machine step at the marginal sides and forep'art.;

Fig. 11 being a fragmentary plan View coi-lnk responding'to that `of'Fig. 10; "C

- A`Fig`112 is afragmentary, cross-sectional,

- marginal view of thesole preparedwith a recessed portion of sufficient extentv to yallow `the upper materials to be embedded and lasted Fig13 is a cross-,sectional view illustrating.

a 'feasible method` offorming a laminated stole,` readily accomplished 'by' uniting theL rordinary insole and yKay footwear. 6U

outsole intended for Mci Referring to the drawings, the shoe sole is shown after'itr is prepared for use, in ac-y cordance with certainembodiments ofthisin.n vention. Thesole is preferably of usual y'sole leather andy of suitable thickness and quality for the particular shoe invwhichit is to be view illustrating 7 in accordance with certain embodiments of this invention, isin effect a combined outsole andinsole,r I will define the same as` consisting of an outsole portion 1 and the insole portion 2, these twoportions being left united at a substantial portion of the forepart at 3. The sole blank is sorted, graded and skived above explained, preferably marked or stamped with the appropriate size and grade or number of ironsf is rough rounded to substantially` the contour shown in the drawing.;v of the outsole portion 1, is then split in from the heelandshank as shown at 5 and around thetoe portion as illustrated at 6 and also on thesidemargins of thek forepart as sey i shown at 7 and 8, thus leaving the connecting at 10, 10, Fig. v2. This margin, of course, can bey of any size, extent,4or style desired. y 'With thesole thus prepared, is then assembled on a last 15 by one ormore tacks as usual. If

desired, I may channel the marginal part of the outsole 1 throughout the forepart and shank, as shown at 16, toconceal the stitches, this beingacustomary method. The upper materials, consistingfin the upper and lining, y

designated at 18, are'then assembled and the shoe is pulled over and lasted. At rthe toe and heeliportions, as shown in Fig. l, theupper materials 18 may be permanently secured by lasting ltacks 20 to .the insole portion at the toe and .at the heelby lasting tacks 21. A counter and boX toe can of course be added if desired.y As shownin Fig. 3, the toe portion maybe temporarily lasted to the insole part 2. To facilitatev this lastingand racking operation the outsolepo'rtion 1 be turned backwardly vorheldl backwardly by the opf erator and the tacks'driven `in through the insole portion. c The lasting cany be then continued, preferably at the shank'by hand or hand method laster, the assembled and pulled over slioebeing preferably in position in a April l13', 1926. I may tack thev shank portion or,` and preferably will, secure theshank part of the upper Abytemperary lasting tacks only' and permanently secure the same by a line of stitching 24', seeFigg/i. i This permits the lasting tacksto be removed and facilitates flexibilityv and a non-metallicfshoe construction.

With the shoe thus far lasted', vizi, the toe, heel and shank', it is then" ready for lasting at the marginal sides at the forepart,within the split portion 7 and 8. For this operation several methods may be carried out. The

metliodshown in Fig. 5 consistsv in pulling bed l'znstinpjy machineffo'r the hand operation, l or in my improved special lasting machine covered" in myPatent'No.`1,580,449,`issued and lasting the upper materials 18 until substantially the limit of stretching and fitting has been reached, and thereupon the surplus upper materials would be severed by a sharp knife or cutter, either on the line 26 or slantingly, to give a beveled part on vthe line 27 (see Fig. 5) at the right. The upper material is then forced into position, while the out-sole edges 10 are held out, in any suitable manner, by a lasting instrument 25, forcing the upper material smoothly, firmly and completely, over the last and over the insole part thereon, into the depth provided by the marginal split openings 7 and 8. With the upper then in this position, the outsole is laid or turned down and a lasting tack 30 driven into position to hold the lastedupper 18 into its lasted position. This lasting tack 30 may be driven entirely through the outsole portion, as shown in Fig. 6, at the left, or may be driven through the flap afforded bythe channel 16, as shown at the right, Fig. 6. A further acceptable method of lasting consists in the arrangement shown in Fig. 7, wherein the upper materials 18, after having been lasted and held in position by the lasting instrument 25, has the surplus material severed by a sharp knife on the line 33, Fig. 7. Thereupon the outsole portions are moved down andthe lasting tacks applied as already described. These lasting tacks may and preferably will be applied between the lasting instrument 25, or a plurality of the same, as shown in Fig. 4, the lasting tacks 30 being driven entirely through a portion of the outsole, the upper materials and the insole part, between the spaces afforded by the lasting instruments 25 or slots in one of such instruments, as will be noted in Fig. 11, where my machine operation is shown.

A still further method of effecting this lasting around the ligature 3 is shown in Fig. 10. In this form, the outsole part has a small section removed, as best seen in Fig. 12, leaving a substantial recess 35 therein, of suitableA width to vreceive the doubled surplus upper materials 18, which are forced into position by the lasting machine, as shown in Fig. 10. In this form the outsole portion is simply forced down on top of the doubled upper materials and t-he lasting tacks driven through between the openings afforded by the lasting fingers 50. This method, of course', can be utilized either by my machine or by hand operations or otherwise. Whichever method is used, after the tacks are inserted through the outsole part and the upper while the latter is under tension due to the wiping, the lasting means or wipers can be withdrawn, leaving the parts retained by the tacks; the outsole part can now be pressed down on the-upper, as shown in Fig. 6, so as to close the space left by the wipers.

With the upper materials thus lasted and secured to the sole, I can then withdraw the last and apply through and through stitching forming the seam 40, passing through the insole portion 2, the upper materials 18, where they are engaged between the two insole and outsole portions, thus permanently uniting sole and upper together. This stitching would be set through the outsole channel 16 in case the same has been cut. As illustrated in Figs. 9, 10 and 11, wherein a fragment-ary portion of my novel and special machine is shown, I perform the lasting operations substantially as above described, but with the added feature of providing a plurality of yielding reciprocable wiper fingers 50, placing these lasting fingers first in contact with the upper materials, below the marginal split portion and below the insole portion, then effecting a relative vertical movement between the assembled upper, sole and last, and the lasting machine, so as to secure a wipingaction between the edges of :the fingers 5,0 and the upper 18. Then I effect a forward movement of the lasting fingers, preferably simultaneously, to wipe and push the upper into and over the insole portions 2. When in this position, as shown in Fig. 10, the surplus marginal edge ofthe upper materials 18 may be cut off, if not previously cut olf in the manner illustrated in connection with Fig. 5, or if the sole has the recess 25 to receivethe same, the entire doubled upper may be left in said recess and the outsole portion tacked down thereover between the lingers 50. The fingers are then withdrawn and the shoe is completely lasted.

At this point also I may apply the usual shank stiffener 400,-see Fig. 3,-securing the same in any suitable and desirable way. The outsole is then applied and tacked in position, the resulting heel nailing operation firmly securing the heel portion of the outsole to the heel seat of the shoe. My Vlasting machine is not specifically claimed herein, nor is it shown in detail, the fragmentary portions in Figs. 9, 10 and 11 being illustrative only to show a series of yieldingly spaced lasting fingers 50 through which the las-ting tacks 30 may be driven, while the fingers 50 are in position, holding the upper and insole in lasted position. The means of operating these fingers 50 in unison is more clearly shownv in my said patent covering the lasting machine, and in Patent No. 1,588,916, June 15, 1926.

As shown in Fig. 3, I may prefer to form the heel splitting and forepart splitting operations at a diEerent relative position throughout the sole with regard to thickness. At the forepart it is most desirable to have the outsole 1 of greatest possible thickness, and therefore the split portions 6 and 7 show a relatively small proportion of thesole for the insole 2 and a relatively greater proportion for the outsole 1. Throu houtthe shank and heel, however, it is more` esirable to have the insole of greater' strength'and thickness, 'las there is no. direct ,Wear on the outsole and therefore I form the heel splitting on the line 5 at a relative point nearer the bottoni surface of'the outsole, leavingthe insole portion 2 of substantial extent. l i f With my shoe as thus made, an extremely simple and eiiicienty series of operations` arey possible, the usual and Well-known shoe man# ufacturing machines, steps, skilled labor and methods of manufacture are `embodied Without serious interruptionor practical difficulty'. My shoe, therefore, is readily adapted tomodern shoe factorymanufacturing methods.' A resulting shoe is'produced Which hasl great vflexibility, is yfree of lasting tacls,'ei ;ceptn :'mgonly at the heel seat'and at the toe portion ifdesiredV-has no expensive Welt and channeling operations, is free` ofthe action and" danger of turning incident to turned shoe con'-k struction and can yetresult in a' single soled `shoe substantially equal in every Way to turn `shoes for' 'comfort and marketability i andy greatly superior theretoinwwear, economy ofr construction and general'satisfactioir i Where I use a` laminated sole, as shown in Fig. 13, the insole and outsolemembers niay `insole and outsoleportions separated to form the recess in which the marginal edge ofthey l upper is forced and lasted. This temporary be united by aV single line of stitching' 60,' o r kapair of rows of stitching 61, at each marginal edge, leaving a sufficient extent of the or permanent uniting of the insole and `out,- solLe by stitching 60, (SL-adhesive,tacks,or other means, `is, only -.necesary at rthe forepart, equivalent to the ligature; In fact, I

considorvit entirely `feasible to manufacture McKay shoes `With insole andilouts'ole of present Weight, grade and thickness by iirst uniting the insolel and outsole at the e central I portion ofthe forepart as herein illustrated, andthen proceeding in accordance With'my method,"aiidxmy broader claims are intended to cover such aA sole, being in' 'effect a` single sole forjthe purposesof the various steps in carrying" outy my invention, i,

`While `I- have specifically described a procedure"r inffwhich thefoperations are performed on` ashoe havinga sole composedof anfinsole part and outsole part joined together, it yWill `be understood vthat the same is merely illustrativey of one embodinient-vr of this ,inventi'onand not limitative?,` for this invention, as fai-as method and procedure are concerned, is applicabl'ef'in many cases to vshoes havingv other forms and types fof soles. It will vfurthermore be understood that.. certain features, steps and lsubcombinations-` are of utility and maybe employed Without reference to other features and steps; that is contemplated by and is wit-hin the scope of the appended claims. It is further obvious that various changes may ybe madeinlthe details :of procedure, within the is claimed is: n i

1.5 That improvement in the art `of mak" scopev of the appended claims, Without departing from the spirit of thisinvention; it is, therefore, to be understood thatthis in'- `vention is notto belimitedfto the details `described and/or shovvii.r

lHaving thus described the invention, What ing boots and shoes which comprises providing a sole having outsole and insoleporftions, assembling'the soleuand upper may terials on they last, la'stingthe upper, securing a portion ofthe lasted upper 'between said insole and outsole kportions by 4lasting tacks driven through the outsole,cupper, and insole portions, withdrawing thelast and unit ing the upper and insoleand outsole portions by through andthrough stitching.

V,2. The improved `method vof ymaking shoes comprisingproviding a combined insole and outsole havingv an rupper .receiving recess at iat the sides of the forepartlasting ther upper 'in said recess, securingthel lasted upper by fastenings engaging theA combined insole and outsole and the upper, andthereafter comipleti'ng the `shoe by through l and through stitching. l i i ,i

3. The improvedmethod of making shoes consistingrin providing acombined insole and outsole having an upper receivingk recess at the sides of the fore part,lasting the upper in said recess, and securingr the lasted upper by temporaryy fasteningsv engaging the combined insole and outsole, and thereafter completing the shoe by `through and through stitching. f

- 4. The improved'method of making shoes consisting in providing combined insole and outsole having anupper receivingv recess at the sides of the fore part, lasting the upper in said recess, securing the lasted upper' by temporary fastenings engaging the combined insole andoutsole, said temporary .lastingmeans being applied closely adjacent the lasting devices, removing the last and completing the shoe by through and throughvstitching and withdrawing` said temporary fastenings.` i

5; The improved method of making a sin.-

fgle'soled shoe consisting informing the sole with a `recess toreceivethe upper materials in the marginal portions of the sole, `lasting y the upper therein, trimmingy and securing the lasted upper thereinby temporary fastenings extending through the' Lipper and the sole portions forming said recess. Withdrawing thelast and permanently uniting the upper andsole by `through and through stitch- 1n e Y,

il. 'Iheimproved method of making shoes', consisting in providing combined insole and outsole portions', havingr said insole and outsoleportions separated at the heel, shank, toe, and alongr the margin ofthe forepart,

lasting the upper, attaching the shank porupper at each side of the forepart.

7. The improved method of making a shoe having an insole and outsole and through and through stitching, which consists in first uniting said insole and outsole at the central portion of the orepart, then assembling said combined insole and outsole as a single sole upon a last with an upper, lasting the upper, securing the lasted upper to the insole member, removing the last and applying the through and through stitching.

8. Theimproved method of making a shoeA having an insole and outsole and through and through stitching, which consists in rst uniting said 'insole and outsole at the central portionof the forepart, then assembling said combined insole and outsole as a single sole upon a last with an upper, lasting the upper, securing the lasted upper to the insole member, `removing the last and applying througli and through stitching, and thereafter removingl the upper retaining means applied to: hold the lasted upper until the through andthrough stitching is applied.

9. In the art of-making shoes, the method comprising, wiping the upper over an insole part on a last, laying on outsole part on and temporarily tacking the same toV the lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to the wiping, and permanently securing the tacked sole and upper together. A

10. In the art of making shoes, the method comprising, wiping the upper over an insole part on a last, laying an outsole part on the lasted'upper and inserting tacks through theV outsole part and into the lasted upper while the latter is held unde-r tens-ion due to the wiping, andseamingthe sole to the upper and removing the tacks.

11. In the art of making shoes', the method comprising, wiping the upper` over an insole part on a last, laying an outsole part on the lasted upper and inserting tacks through the outsole part and into the lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to the wiping, releasing the wiping action after insertion of the tacks, removing the last, and seaming through the outsole part, upper and insole part.

12. In the art of making shoes, the method comprising, wiping the upper over an insole part on a last, laying an outsole p-art on the wiping means and temporarily tacking the `outsole part to the lasted upper while the part on a last and substantially continuously therealong, laying an outsole part on and temporarily tacking the same to the lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to the wiping, and permanently securing the tacked sole and upper together.

l5. In the art of making shoes, the method comprising, wiping the upper over an insole vpart on a last and at closely adjacent points therealong', and laying an outsole part on and inserting tacks through the outsole part and into the lasted upper between those points while the upper is held under tension due to the wiping- 16. In the art of making shoes, the method comprising, moving closely spaced wipers over an insole part on a last so as to wipe the upper thereover, laying an outsole part on the wiper and inserting tacks `through the outsole part and into the lasted upper at points between the wipers while the uplper is held by the wipers, and withdrawing the wipers after insertion of the tacks.

17. -Inthe art of making shoes, the method comprising, laying an edge-divided sole'on a last, turning back the outsole part, wiping an upper over the insole part, turningthe outsole part on` and temporarily tacking. the same to the lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to the wiping, and permanently securing the tacked soleand upper together.

18. In the art ofmaking. shoes, the method comprising, laying an edge-divided sole on a last, turning back the outsolepart, wiping the upper over the insole part, turning the outsole part hack and inserting tacks therethrough and into vthe lasted upper while the latter is held under tension due to the wipingremoving the last, and seam-ing through the outsole part, upper and insole part.

In testimony whereof I all'ix my signature this 28th day of October, 1927.

CHARLES B.y sPALsBURY.

comprising, wiping the upper over an insole

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