US1497964A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

June 17', 1924.

- 1,497,964 J. M. VAN HEUSEN I COLLAR Filed Jan. 19. 1923 s Sheets-Sheet 1 avwmtoz 27;A M van Ill/fuse" June 17, 1924.

J. M. VAN HEUSEN COLLAR Filed Jan. 19 1923 I5 Sheets-Sheet 4'5 Patented June 17, 1324.

STATES JOHN M. VAN ,HEUSEN, or nosronjiliassncnusn'rrs.

COLLAR.

Application filed January 19, 1923. Serial No. 613,612.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN M. VAN HEUsnN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to improve ments in collars and more particularly to collars made up of two or more pieces of heavy fabric such as, for example, multiple ply interwoven fabric, and the present application is a continuation in part of my two cope-riding applications, Serial Nos. 517,020 and 517,021, both filed on November 22,1921.

The binding of collars made of heavy fabric, such as multiple ply interwoven fabric, and the securing together of two separate pieces of such fabric, presents a special problem owing to the thickness and stifiness of the fabric. It is not feasible to bind the edges of this fabric by turning the said edges twice on themselves and securing with stitches, since the thickness of the several layers of fabric which result from an edge formed in this manner, produces a bulge or welt on the inside edge of the collar which is unsightly and which, when coming in contact with the wearers neck, has a tendency to chafe the same. Also in collars of the type commonly known as the wing collars it is essential that both sidesof the edge portion of the wings shall have a smooth and finished appearance, since both sides of the said edges are generally exposedto view and the thick and unsightly turned edge would prevent the collar from having a finished appearance.

One object of my invention, among others, is to provide a collar made or two or more pieces of fabric, said separate pieces being combined together in such a manner as to present a neat and dressy appearance on both the front and back surfaces of the collar blank so that the collarmay be readily reversed: and to weave one ormore of the pieces of fabriccomprising the finished collar in such a manner that the fabric at,

I is made of heavy composite fabric such as,

for example, multiple ply interwoven fabric,

That is, if the collar is of the folding or turn down type, the folding or turn down portion of the collar is made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, and if desired, the neckband portion mayalso be made of the same or similar material; if the collar is a stand-up collar with turn down wings I prefer to make both the stand-up portion of the collar and the wingportions of the collar of the same heavy composite material. The bindingof the edges of the composite collar fabric is accomplished by the provision of integral thin extensions on the edges ofthe heavy fabric itself. More particularly, in the case of multiple ply interwoven fabric, the fabric is provided with a divided edge,

which extends entirely or partially around the collar blank and which can be turned in and stitched to form the edge binding. Furthermore, the divided edge is so woven that on either one side or on both sides of the fabric at the said divided edge portions the weave is, such as to present substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the collar. When the extensions forming the divided edge are turned in and stitched, the fabric at the edge portion of the collar will, at least on one side of the collar, or on both sides of theicollar, present the'same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric. 7 i

If the main portionof the collar blank is of multiple ply interwoven fabric, and if such a fabric isprovided with a bifurcated or divided edge of single ply fabric of or dinary weave extending therefrom, the single ply extensions forming the said "divided edge will present a somewhat different appearance from the main interwoven portion of the fabric, for the reason that them terweave of the multiple ply fabric is omitted in the single ply extensions. It willbe understood that in weavingthe multiple ply interwoven fabric, the pliesjare interwoven with each other by threads common to ;two

threads appear on theuoutside of the interwoven fabric in addition to the;threa-ds of the outer ply itself, while the single'ply extensions of the fabric present the appearance of a modified weave. 5

or more plies,-and ,that'these interweave J Accordin to one embodiment of the oresent invention, the fabric whichmakes up the turn-down portionof a collar of thefolde ing or turn down variety, is woven with, one or both of the extensionsv forming the diiie vided edge of a weave which presents the same or substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion, so that, when such edges are turned in and stitched the collar will on one side or on both sides present a similar appearance both where the fabric is interwoven throughout and where the fabric is woven to form the edge binding. For example, the main portion of the said folding or turn-down portion may be woven of three ply fabric with the three plies interwoven, and the collar blank may lave a bifurcated or divided edge made up of integral extensions, one of which is likewise interwoven with a similar interweave to that of the main interwoven portion. Then the thin extension or extensions thus woven are turned in and stitched, the edge portion of the collar formed thereby will present the same appearance as the rest of the collar.

The present invention will be described in detail in reference to certain embodiments thereof which are ilh'istrated in the accompanying drawings in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a finished collar of the wing type;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the collar illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a plan View of the collar blank forming the stand-up portion of the collar illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. i is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line fhf of Fig.1;

F ig. 5 is an enlarged diagrannnatical view showing conventionally one suitable weave of the collar fabric;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged diagrammatical view showin conventionally another suitable weave;

Fig. 7 is an ei'ilarged diagrammatical view showing conventionally a modification 'of the weave illustrated in Fig. 5; A

Fig. 8 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the stand=up portion of the collar shown in Fig. 1 may be cut; v

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a piece of fabric from which the wings of the collar shown in Fig. 1 may be cut;

F 10 is a perspective View of the wing portion as cut from the fabric of 9;

Fig. 11 is a perspective View of a wing showing the edges turned in and stitched;

Fig. 12 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the lin 12-l2 of Fig. 11; 1

' Fig. 13 is a perspective view of a collar of the folding or turn-down varietyembodying the present invention;

Fig. 14: is an'enlarged sectional view taken on the line 14-1 i of Fig. 13;

Fig. 15 is a plan view of a strip of fabric from which the folding or turn-down portion of thecolla'r illustrated in Fig. 13 ma been, and r Fig. 16 is an enlarged sectional view showthe main portion of the collar interwoven,

that is, with the main portion made up of thethree ply interwoven fabric or the four ply interwoven fabric. The collar illus trated in Figs. 1 to 12 inclusive, is made up of the main portion 1 and the wing por tions 2 and is provided with the usual button holes 3. One suitable form of weave is illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5. As illustrated in these figures, the fabric is a three ply fabric having three series of warp threads 5, interwoven with weft threads 6 to form three separate layers or plies, and two sets of interweave threads 7 and 8 for interweaving the middle ply with the upper and lower plies respectively. The fabric is woven with a divided edge, one part of which is of two ply interwoven fabric in dicated at 9, and the other of single ply fabric 10. Owing to the presence of the same inter-weave in the two ply extension 9 and in the inain three ply interwoven portion of the fabric, it will be evident that the extension 9 will present the same appearance as the main interwoven portions, and will also have an increased degree of stiffness as compared with the single ply extension. A suitable fabric from which the stand-up portion of the collar may be cut is illustrated in Fig.- 8. The fabric illustrated is woven with rectangular interwoven portions, or approximately rectangular portions 11, one of which forms the greater portion of the collar blank. The outer edges 17 of the fabric are woven as divided edges while the portions 18 at the end of the interwoven portions, as well as the portions '20 between the main interwoven portions are woven tubular. One side of the tubular portion 18 and one side of the divided edge 17 is of two ply interwoven fabric as illustrated at 9 in Figs. at and 5, while the other side of the tubular portions 18 and 20 and the divided edge 17 is of single ply fabric as illustrated at 10 in Figs. "1 and 5. By cutting out the stand-up portion of the collar to the shape illustrated in the dot and dash lines in Fig. 8, it will be seen that the said stand-up portion has a divided edge entirely around it. The divided edge is adapted to be turned in and stitched to form the edge binding of the collar, and the wing p'or'tionsof the collar may be inserted between the said divided edge and secured by stitching or other suitable means. The collar having the edges of the stand-up portion thereof turned in and stitched and having the wing portions of the collar secured between the divided edge is illustrated in Figs. land 2 of the drawings.

Fig. 9 illustrates a section of fabric from which the wing portions of the collar may be cut. As shown in this figure, rectangular portions 13 are separated on all four sides by tubular portions 19, giving a checker work appearance on the face of the fabric. The wings may be cut from the fabric as indicated by the dot and dash lines in the figure, and it will be evident that a wing cut in this manner will be provided with a divided edge on'each of the two edges which are exposed to view in the finished collar. Fig. 10 shows a wing portion as cut from the fabric of, Fig. 9, showing the divided edge 14 on the two exposed edges of the said wing. Fig. 11 shows the wing with the edges let turned in and stitched.-

The fabric of which the wing portions is made may be, for example, a three ply in terwoven fabric as described above, with the integral. extension of Fig. 11, which forms one side of the divided edge, being of a two ply interwoven fabric presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

It will thus be seen that the main portion of the collar is of three ply interwoven fabric while the entire edge of the collar is provided with two lntegral extensions of the heavy fabric, one of which is also a multiple ply interwoven fabric of the same appearance as the main interwoven portion.

Accordingly, although the collar may extend a short distance from the main interwoven portion, for example, at the parts indicated at 12 in Fig. 3, yet these extensions will on one side of the collar have the same appearance as the'main interwoven portion, and will have such a degree of stiffness due to the interweaving of one side of the fabric forming the extensions, that the collar will be free from a flimsy appearance at these portions.

In order to give the collar a greater degree of stiffness and also to provide the edges with a weave that has the same appearance on both sides of the collar so that both sides 'of the wings will present an appearance similar to that of the main interwoven portion of the fabric, the fabric may, for example, be woven as illustrated in Fig.

(3 oras illustrated in Fig. .7. Fig. 6 illus-.

trates a four ply interwoven fabric in which at the edge portions two extensions of the main portion are formed, said extensions each consisting of a two ply interwoven fabric. By turning in the-edges of a collar blank cut from this fabric andsecuring them with stitches or other suitable means, the

collar will have the same appearance on both sides at its edges; In Fig. 6 the same or similar parts are indicated by the same reference numerals as in Fig.5, but with the letter a appended thereto. The wing portions ofthecollar as wellasthe standup portion will now present a highly pleasing and finished appearance on both sides, for the'rea'son that the weave of the fabric on both sides of the edge portion is similar to that of the main portion of the collar. Referringncw to Fig. 7 of'the drawings, it will be noted'that the fabric illustrated in this figure is a three ply interwoven fabric of similar construction to that illustrated in F ig, 5. It will be noted, however, that in Fig. 7 the interweave thread 8 which binds together the middle and lower. plies of the fabric is woven into the single ply layer 10 instead of being'woven in the middle ply which forms part of the extension 9 as illustrated in Fig. 5. It will be seen that the exposed surface of the extension 10, although said extension is not made of two interwoven plies of fabric, will present an appearance substantially the same as the appearance of the main interwoven portion of the collar. This is true because the interweave thread 8 is woven into the single ply extension 10. i p

In constructing the wing collar above described of separate pieces or portions, i. e., by making the wing portions separate from 'thestand-up portions and securing them together, a clear and definite line of fold of the wing portions isobtained. It will be seen that the sea-m of attachment between the wing portion and'the stand-up portion provides fold line along which the two portions will naturally tur By folding the wings along this line and creasing the folded edge with a hot iron or the like, the wings will be caused to assume the correct position.

The collar illustrated in Figs. 13 to 16 inclusive is a collar of the turn-down or folding type, andis made up of a neckband portion 21 and a folding or turn-down portion 22. The neckband portion is provided with the usual buttonholes 23. One suitable form of weave of the fabric which forms the turn-down portion of the collar and also if desired the neckband portion, is illustrated in Fig. 5. The construction of this fabric has been described in connection with the stand-up collar, and it will be seen that this fabric may advantageously be used in making folding orturn-down collarsas well as collars of the stand up variety.

-A suitable fabric from which the turn down portion of the collar may be cut 'is illust/rated in Fig. 15, This fabric shown in the figure is woven with the rectangular. portions 3 of interwoven fabric and the tubular portions 7 and8 complctelyenclosing the]interwoven portions. The interwoven portions 3 may be made of suiiicient width so that two turn-down collar portions may be cut therefrom. in Fig. 15 illustrate this feature. It will be The dot and dashlines' edge at the upper edge of the neckband and secured in this position by stitches or other suitable means. This construction is illustrated in Fig. 14. While I haveillustrated the neckband portion in Fig. 14: as comprise ing two separate layers of fabric which are placed together and stitched along the edges thereof, it will be understood that the neckband portion may be made of multiply interwoven fabric or similar material having the desired degree of thickness and stiffness. A construction of this sort is illustrated in Fig. 16. It will be noted that the neckband portion of the collar is constructed of multiple ply interwoven fabric and that the upper edge of the folding or turn-down portion is provided with a divided edge between which the neckband portion is inserted and secured. v

It will thus be seen that in the folding or turn-down collar, the construction of which is above described, the turn-down port-ionis made of three ply interwoven fabric having at the three exposed edge portions thereof two integral extensions of the fabric,

one which is also multiple ply interwoven fabric. Accordingly, although the edge portions of the collar may extend a short distance from the main interwoven portion thereof, for example, at the parts indicated at 18 in Fig. 15, yet these extensions will, on at least one side of the collar, have the same appearance as the main interwoven portion and have such a degree of stifiness, due to the interweaving of one of the extensions fo'rming the divided edge, that the collar will be free from a flimsy appearance at these portions.

The turn down portion of the built-up collar above described may be cut from a fabric woven on broad looms in which fabric is woven of sufficient width to form the turndown portions of a plurality of collars. This feature of the built-up collar is distinguished from the one piece collar described in my copending application Serial #609785, in which I prefer to weave the fabric on a special loom to give it a curvilinear contour. So also in the built-up collar' of the present invention the neckband portion may be made of any desired material depending on the fineness and quality of the collar which it is desired to make, and at the same time the turn-down portion of the collar has a neat and dressy appearance comparable with that of a collar made of one piece of multiple ply interwoven fabric. I

In order to make the collar reversible so that it may be worn when folded ,in either direction, both of the extensions of the divided edge may be woven with a weave of the same appearance as the main interwoven down portion of a collar cut from this fabric and stitching them, the collar will have the same appearance on both sides of the said turn-down portion. It will thus be seen that the-collar may be folded in either direction with equal facility, and the same neatand dressy appearance will be presented whichever way it is folded. If the fabric illustrated in Fig. 7 is used to form the turn-down portion of the collar, the collar will also be reversible so far as the appearance of the edges is concerned, but it will be obvious that the extension 10 will not have a degree of stiffness comparable with that of the extension 10 illustrated in Fig. 6. While I have illustrated the collar fabric as the three ply and four ply interwoven fabric, and with divided edges of the character described, yet it will be understood that the number of plies of fabric and the particular weave shown is intended to be illustrative rather than limiting, and that other similar fabrics may be used, provided a divided edge is woven in the fabric and is so woven that it presents on one side or on both sides substantially the same appearance as the main portion of the fabric. I

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention in the using of such terms and expressions ofexcluding any of the features shown and described, or portions thereof, but recognize that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed. I claim: 1. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one of said pieces bein of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached to the other portions of the collar and having onthe exposed edge portions thereofv integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts .of which are turned in and stitched,-at least one of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein extending to the edge of the collar and presenting a weave of substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

2. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one of said pieces being of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached to the other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portions thereof integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, at least one of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric extending to the edge of the collar and presenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven. portion of the fabric.

3. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one of said pieces being of multiple ply interwoven fabric securely attached to the other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portions thereof integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein and presenting substantially the same appearance as i the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

4. A collar comprising a plurality of pieces of fabric, at least one of said pieces being of multiple-ply interwoven fabric securely attached to the other portions of the collar and having on the exposed edge portions thereof integral extensions of the fab ric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weave presenting substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

5. A stand-up collar with turn-down wings comprising a stand-up portion. and

wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, said portions being made separately and secured together, the exposed edge portions of the stand-up portion and the wing portions being provided with integral pearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric. 7

6. A stand-up collar with turndown wings comprising a stand-up portion and wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, said portions bein made separately and secured together, tlie exposed edge portions of the stand-up portion and the wing portions being provided with integral extensions of the fabric forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weave presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

7. A stand-up collar with turn-dowir wings comprising a stand-up portion and wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, the said stand-up portion having thereon divided edges between which the wing portions are inserted and secured, both the wing portions and the stand-up portions having, at those portions thereof which are exposed to view in the finished collar when worn, integral extensions forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned inand stitched, at least one of said integral extensions having interweave threads woven therein extending to the edge of the collar and presenting a weave of substantially the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

8. A stand-up collar with turn-down wings comprising a stand-up portion and wing portions made of multiple ply interwoven fabric, the said stand-up portion havthereon divided edges between which the wing portions are inserted and secured, both the wing portions and the standup portions having, at the edges thereof which are exposed to view in the finished collar when worn, integral extensions forming a divided edge, the two parts of which are turned in and stitched, both of said integral extensions being woven of multiple ply interwoven fabric with a weave presenting the same appearance as the main interwoven portion of the fabric.

JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN.

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