US1829939A - Collar and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 3, 1931. R. w. M CREERY COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 2 Sheets-Shet 1 Filed May 18, 1931 INVENTOK m 771 m 9" m 9 ATTORNEYS.

3, 1931- R. w. M CREERY COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed May 18, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A TTORNEYS.

Patented Nov. 3, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ROBERT w. HCCBEEBY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

OOLLARANDIETHODOFWGTHIESAIE Application filed lay 18,1931. Serial Io. 538,033.

My invention relates to a new and improved collar.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide a soft or unstarched collar which may be detached, or which may be attached to a shirt.

lar.

Another object of my invention is to provide a collar consisting of a neckband, and a front or outer portion, one of said members, such as-the front of the collar, being constructed so that a natural line of fold is provided between the two members'of the collar.

Another object of my invention is to provide a collar having a stiffening member or lining, which is preferably although not necessarily, located in the front of the collar,

this stiffening member or lining being so shaped and constructed as to provide a natural or definite line of fold between the two members of the collar. This stiffening member is made of fabric which produces the shape or body of the collar.

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings, which illustrate a preferred embodiment of my invention, it being understood that the above general statement of the objects of my invention is intended to-generally explain the same and not to limit it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is an elevation showing the construction of the front or top of the collar.

Fig. 2 is a sectional view through the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is an elevation showing the three layers of the front or the top of the collar after said layers have been turned, in order to complete the first operation in the process of making the collar.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view on the line 44 of Fig. 3. 1 Fig. 5 is an elevation showing the front or the top of the collar after additional sewing operations have been completed.

of Fig. 5.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 6'-6 of the top or the front of the collar, with the back or neckband of the collar.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7.

F' 9 is an elevation showing the final relation tween the top of the collar and the neckband of the collar.

Fig. 10 is a sectional view on the line 1010 of Fig. 9.

The front or top of the collar is preferably made of three layers of fabric, namely, a back layer 1, a front layer 2. and a lining L.

When the collar is finally assembled, the back layer 1 of the top of the collar is adja cent the neckback of the collar, and the front layer 2 forms the face layer of the front of the collar. The layers 1 and 2 can be made of any suitable fabric, such as a woven cotton or woven silk fabric, or the like, and the collar may be made either soft or starched. The lining L can be made of any suitable fabric, which imparts the necessary stiffness to the collar. This fining L can be made of heavy cotton material, but it is preferably made of wool, since wool is relatively non-crushable and wrinkle-proof.

Fig. 7 is an elevation showing the assembly In the first operation the three layers of the top of the collar are assembled as shown in Fig. 2, the rear layer lbeiifg then adjacent the front layer 2, and the lining L being then adjacent the front layer 2. These three layers are connected by stitches S, which extend along three sides of the said three layers, so that the fourth side, namely, the top side shown in Fig. 1 is free from said stitches. This forms a pocket-like structure, and the next operation is to turn this inside out, thus producing the structures shown in Figs. 3 and 4. It is very easy for the operator to inturn the edges of the three layers around the line of stitches S, so that it is not necessary to use a turning machine.

T It will be noted that the lining or stiffening layer L is of less width than the outside layers 1 and 2. Likewise, it is to be understood that the lining L'can be made of any desired material, and this material is not necessarily stifl'er than the material of the outside layers 1 and 2. Hence, the lining material per se is bendable, save as it is reinforced by a plurality of thicknesses. Referring to Fig. 10, the entire portion of the front member of the collar which is above the line of stitches Sa is readily bendable, because of the single thickness of the member L. The upper edge of the member L projects only very slightly above the lines of stitches Sa, thereby not impairing the flexibility of the front member at this point.

The next operation is to sew the rear layer 1 and the lining L by another row of stitches Sa, this row of stitches being invisible at the front layer 2 so that it does not mar the appearance of the collar.

As shown in Fig. 3, the line of stitches So is shorter than the length of the layers 1, 2 and L. Said layers 1, 2 and L have substantially the same length. The line of stitches Sa is curved, in order to impart a suitable curved contour to the collar, and to cause it to conform naturally to the shape of the neck.

The next operation is to connect the three layers of the top of the collar by means of another line of stitches Sb, which extend around three sides of the assembled layers, as shown in Fig. 5.

This operation leaves the fourth or top side of the assembled layers open, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6.

It will also be noted that the stitched edges of the three layers 1, 2 and L have been turned by the operations previously specified, in order to produce neat edges.

The front or top F of the collar now has the back or neckband B assembled therewith.

The back or neckband B comprises outer layers 1a and 2a. which correspond to the layers 1 and 2, and the back B also includes a lining La, which corresponds to the lining L wh ch has been previously specified.

However, in making the back of the collar the three layers 1a. 2a and La are made of the same shape and d mensions throughout.

In order to assemble the three lavers of the back B, the layers La and 2a are placed upon the layer 1. so that the layers 2a, La and 1 are substantially coincident. The layer 1a is likewise laid upon the layer 2. so that said lavers 1a and 2 are also substantially oincident. The three layers of the back B are then united to the layers 1 and 2. bv means of stitches Sc, and it will be noted that these stitches Sc do not pass through the lining L, due to the fact that the lining L is of less width than the outer layers 1- and 2. The three layers of the back B are then turned into the position shown in Fig. 8, and the three layers of the back B are again connected to the outerlayers 1 and 2, by means of a line of stitches Sd.

As shown in Fig. 7 the stitches Sd extend either partlally or wholly to the free edge of the back The back B is then turned into the posltlon shown in Fig. 9. This turning causes the edges of the layer La to be turned around the line of stitches Sd. WVhile the layers L and La may have the same contour as the outer layers of the collar, I do not wish to be limited to this identity of contour. The lining layers are made of fabric which substantially imparts the body or shape to the collar. According to my invention, the relatively heavy lining fabric is turned s1- multaneously with the outer layers of the collar, so that wrinkling is eliminated.

If the collar is to be attached to a shirt, the free edge of the back B is suitably connected to the shirt. If the collar is to be used as a .separate collar, the free edge of the back B is suitably finished.

As shown in. Fig. 10, when the collar is completely assembled and ready for use, the lining strip La extends above the lining strip L, and the collar has an intermediate fold portion of greater yieldability than either the top or the neckband of the collar. This causes the collar to naturally retain the shape shown in Fig. 10, so that the front or top of the collar does not creep upwardly. Referring to'Fig. 8 of the drawings herein, it will be noted that the front of the collar consists of only two layers adjacent the line of fold. Fig. 10 shows that the folded top part of the front of the collar consists of only two layers of fabric, and the lining does not extend into the folded part. Likewise the strip L only has a single thickness below the folded part, because the top edge of the lining strip L is non-turned. The elimination of the bulge which would be produced by the inturned top edge of the strip L, permits the neckband of the collar to lie fiat against the front of the collar as shown in Fig. 10. Likewise, the collar can be bent around the neck and sufficient space is left for the necktie, because the folded part of the top of the collar is free from stiffening material, and the upper edge of the lining of the front of the collar is nonturned. Likewise, the folded part of the collar is free from the front lining layer L and the rear lining layer La and extends substantially to the top of the collar.

As shown in Fig. 10, the front of the collar has the top thereof thinner than the bottom thereof. Since the stiffening members L and La are turned simultaneously with the outer layers of the collar, the assembled collar is free from wrinkles. Due to the construction of the collar, a starched collar can be ironed flat, and it is not necessary to turn the neckband over on the front of the collar by the usual turning machine.

I have shown a preferred embodiment of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions can be made without departing from its spirit.

For example, the lining strips may be made of mohair because mohair fabric is very resilient and wrinkle-proof and is superior to ordlnary wool in these respects. Likewise,

' the lining may consist of a composite fabric having a mohair warp and a cotton filler thread. If desired, the lining may have cotton warp threads and mohair filler threads.

I claim: 1 A collar having a front member and a neckband, said front member having a folded upper end portion to which the neckband is lining of the front member being of single connected, said frontmember and said neckband each consisting of outer layers of fabric and an intermediate lining layer, the top edge of the lining of the front member being below the folded portion of the front member so that said folded portion of the frontumember is free from said lining, the lining of the neckband extending substantially to the upper edge of the collar, the upper edge of the thickness and being connected to the front member bya line of stitches, -the entire portion of said front member which is above said line of stitches being readily bendable.

2. A collar having a front member and a neckband, said front member having a folded upper end portion to which the neckband is connected, said front member and said neckband each consisting of outer layers of fabric and an intermediate lining layer, the top edge of the lining of the front member being below the folded portion of the front member so that said-folded portion of the front member is free from said lining, the lining of the neckband extending substantially to the upper edge of the collar, the upper edge of the lining of the front member being of single thickness and being connected to the front member by a-line of stitches, the entire portion of said front member whi'h is above said line of stitches being readily bendable, the

other edges of the lining of the front member being turned along lines of stitches which secure said lining of the front member to the front member.

3. A 'collar having a front member and a neckband, said front member having a folded. upper end portion to which the neckband is connected, said front member and said neckband is connected, said front member and neckband each consisting of outer layers of fabric and an intermediate lining member connected thereto ,by meansof stitches, the top edge of the lining of the front member being below the folded portion of the front member so that said folded portion of the front member is free from said lining, the lining of the neckband extending substantially to the upper edge of the collar, the stitches of the neckband being above the stitches of the front member.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

ROBERT W. MOCREERY.

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