US2150881A - Collar and lining material therefor - Google Patents

Description

March 14, 1939. E. A. KING COLLAR AND LINING MATERIAL THEREFOR Filed Sept. 17, 1937 INVENTOR A. K ma- ATTORNEY Patented Mar. 14, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Edward A. King, Dorchestcr, Mass, assignor of one-half to Charles F. Adams, Framingham,

Mass.

Application September 17, 1937, Serial No. 164,339

4 Claims.

The present invention relates to folding or turn-down collars, more particularly of the socalled soft collar type, and to a novel fabric construction for use as a lining ply in such collars.

Collars of the type referred to are commonly constructed of one or more face plies of fabric of texture and design to match that of the shirt,

F usually constructed from heavier or stiffer fabric than the face plies and may be chemically treated or coated to add stiffness.

When a lining ply is employed for the leaf portion, it is desirable that it extend over the fold line of the finished collar, to stiffen the fold line portion and also to permit attachment of the upper edge of the lining to the face plies in the neckband, thus avoiding seams adjacent the fold line in the leaf portion. However, while it is desirable to stiffen the fold line to some extent, it must be left sufficiently flexible for ready folding and also to present a yielding, rather than a sharp, hard edge, to the neck of the wearer, since a sharp, hard edge is uncomfortable for the wearer and is apt to cause breaking or excessive wear of the face fabric in the fold portion. The maximum degree of stiffness desirable in the fold portion of the lining to meet these requirements is considerably less than the degree of stiffness desirable in the leaf portion.

Various proposals have heretofore been advanced for the production of a collar in which the zone constituting the fold line is more flexible than the turn-down or leaf portion. Thus it has been proposed to weave all plies of the collar together as a multiple ply interwoven fabric, and to omit some or all of the warp threads from the fold line area of the back or inner ply. In such case, however, the fabric is greatly weakened in the fold area and breaks easily in use, and, furtherrnore, the resultant difference in thickness between the fold zone and adjacent area produces an unsightly bulge in the leaf portion adjacent the fold area. It has also been proposed to produce such a collar of separately woven plies in which the leaf area and fold area of the lining ply are composed of strips of different fabrics separately woven and joined by sewing. In such case, however, the seam joining the strips produces an undesirable bulge or ridge in the leaf near the fold line.

It is an object of the present invention to produce a multiple ply collar in which the fold area is of greater flexibility, but not materially weaker, than the turn-down leaf portion, and which has no objectionable bulge between fold and leaf portions. It is a further object of my invention to produce a collar lining material which may be cut to form a unitary lining for fold and leaf areas, or fold, leaf and neckband areas, of such a collar. It is a still further object of the invention to produce a lining material for collars which may be uniformly coated with a chemical composition while yet having narrow zones to constitute fold areas of greater flexibility than other zones to constitute leaf areas.

Other objects and advantages will appear from the following description of my invention and from the appended drawing, in which:

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 illustrate strips of lining material made in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged section view of part of the lining shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view of a two-ply collar embodying lining made in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 6 is a sectional View of a three-ply collar embodying lining made in accordance with the present invention;

, vFig. '7 represents a modification of the construction shown in Fig. 4.

Preferably my lining material, indicated by the numeral I in the drawing, is woven as a tape of single lining width which comprises a relatively stiff area 3 having a relatively flexible border strip 2, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2; or two relatively stiff areas 3 joined by a flexible strip 2, as shown in Fig. 3.

The novel characteristics of my lining' are attained primarily by employing yarns of different characterv for the longitudinally extending yarns, generally the warps, in the areas 2 and. 3 respectively. As shown in Fig. 4, for the longitudinally extending yarns 4 in the stiff area or areas 3 of the fabric, I use a relatively coarse heavy yarn such as a heavy duck yarn, for example a number 8 or 10 single ply, or number or 22 two-ply yarn. In the flexible area or areas 2, however, I employ longitudinally thereof, relatively fine, light-weight yarns 5 such as are employed in. print cloths or light-weight sheetings, for example a number single ply yarn or a number 60 two-ply yarn. The transverse yarns 6, which are uniform in size and character throughout the fabric, are preferably also of the relatively fine, light-weight type similar to the yarns 5 but preferably slightly heavier, such as a number 22 single ply or number 53 two-ply yarn.

Since the yarns 5 are finer and lighter than the yarns 4, the area 2 is lighter and more flexible than the adjacent area 3, although not materially different in strength and wearing qualities. This difference in degree of flexibility is independent of the character of the transverse yarns 6 em ployed, as they are uniform throughout the fabric.

' areas 3 due to difference in character of the yarns lighter than the yarns 4. At the same time, to

reduce as far as possible lack of balance in the 4 and 6 in these areas, it is ,desirablethat the yarns 6 be near the maximum size and weight consistent with proper flexibility of the fold areas. For this reason, I prefer that the yarns 6 be somewhat larger and heavier than the yarns 5, as previously indicated.

It will be apparent that the size and character of the various threads or yarns employed, as well as the character of the weave, are factors capable of considerable variation. As a preferred example of lining material constructed accord ing to the present invention, I give the following: Filling, No. 53 two-ply yarn, count 68 per inch; fold area warps, No. two-plyyarn, count 90 per inch; remaining warps, N0. 23 two-ply yarn, count 90 per inch; weight of fabric in fold area about 4 square yards per pound, weight of balance of fabric about 2 square yards per pound.

While there is some difference in thickness between the fold and leaf areas of my material, it is not ordinarily sufficient to result in any noticeable ridge in the face fabrics of the collar along theedge of the fold area of the lining. However, in order to avoid any possibility of such a ridge, I may gradually reduce the diameters of the longitudinally extending yarns between the main body of the leaf portion and the edge of the fold portion, as shown in Fig. 7.

Linings made according to my invention may consist of a single pairof integral strips 2 and 3, the strip 2 constituting a border along one edge of the strip 3. In such case, the strip 2 should have sufficient width to extend over the fold line into the neckband portion for attachment by sewing to the face plies at the top of the neckband, as in Figs. 1 and 6, a width of inch being generally suflicient for this purpose. If desired, the strip 2 may be made as wide as the combined fold and neckband areas to constitute a lining for the neckband, as in Figs. 2 and 5 If it is desired to stiffen the neckband portion of the collar to a greater extent than the fold line portion, the cut lining, as shown in Fig.

3, may consist of two relatively stiff, heavy fabric strips 3 joined by an intervening flexible fold strip 2 which in such case need be only about inch in width. 7

While Iprefer to weave the material in. single lining width strips, multiple liningvridth sheets of the materials illustrated in Figs. 1-3.m.ay be woven with stiff areas 3 and flexible areas 2 alternating across the fabric, for subsequent cutting into lining strips such as are shown in Figs. 1-3. The. material may, if desired, be woven on a curve.

In making up collars, the lining material is cut or stamped into lining blanks of proper size, as indicated in dotted lines on Figs. 13. Each blank is then assembled with a single face ply blank 1, as in Fig. 5, or several face ply blanks I, as in Fig. 6, and the several blanks stitched together and turned in customary manner to form the collar. Care should be taken. in cutting and assembling to locate the several lining areas of different characteristics properly with respect to the face plies. If desired, my lining material may be coated or impregnated with chemicals of a thermoplastic nature, conveniently prior to cutting the blanks, and the cut blanks may thereafter be fused to the face plies. In such case, my lining material retains its characteristic greater flexibility in the fold portion, after uniform coating and fusing.

In general, I prefer to weave my lining material as an individual fabric for subsequent cutting and assembling with plies of face fabric, as previously described. However, it may be made as the inner ply of a multiple'ply interwoven fabric. In such case, the size and character of threads in the severalportions of the lining ply are varied in the same manneras in the separately woven lining material while the face ply or plies are woven uniform in texture throughout.

I claim:

1. A multi-ply folding collar of textile material having at least two face plies and a separate unitary woven lining ply between said face plies, said lining ply having a flexible fold line area and a relatively stiff turn-downleaf area, the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns in the fold line area of said lining ply being finer and lighter than the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns. in the turn-down leaf area of said lining ply.

2. A multi-ply folding collar of textile material having at least two face plies and a separate unitary woven lining ply between said face plies, said lining ply having a flexible fold line area and a relatively stiff turn-down leaf area, the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns in said turn-down leaf area of said lining ply being coarser and heavier than the longitudinally extending yarns inv the fold line area of 'said ply and the yarns crossing both said areas in said ply- 3. A multi-ply folding collar of textile material having at least two face plies and a separate unitary woven lining ply between said face plies, said lining ply having a flexible fold line area and a relatively stiff turn-down leaf area, the yarns insaid lining ply crossing both said areas being finer and lighter than the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns in the turn-down leaf area of said ply, but coarser and heavier than the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns in the fold line area of said ply.

4. A multi-ply folding collar of textile material having at least two face plies and a. separate unitary woven lining ply between said face plies,

said lining ply having flexible fold line and neckband areas and a relatively stiff turn-down leaf area, the majority of the longitudinally extending yarns in the turn-down leaf area of said lining ply being coarser and heavier than the other yarns in said ply.

EDWARD A. KING.

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