US2033680A

US2033680A - Fused collar

Info

Publication number: US2033680A
Application number: US39344A
Authority: US
Inventors: Richard C Campbell
Original assignee: CAMPBELL Co
Current assignee: CAMPBELL Co
Priority date: 1935-09-05
Filing date: 1935-09-05
Publication date: 1936-03-10
Anticipated expiration: 1953-03-10
Also published as: FR805665A; GB454417A

Description

March 10, 1936.- R. c. CAMPBELL 2,033,680

FUSED COLLAR Filed se tfs, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 WITNESSES INVENTOR M ATTOIiJEYSi dill) lit Patented Mar. l, i936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FUSED COLLAR ration of New York Application September 5, 1935, Serial No. 39,344

a 1 Claim.

The present invention relates to fused collars, and has for its object to produce a fused collar either as a separate article of manufacture or attached to a shirt, so constructed that it may be readily shaped and will maintain the shape which it is given under all conditions of wear and while being laundered, yet will be at all times extremely flexible, presenting smooth surfacesboth in the neck band and cape portions, and free from superfluous heavy seams; and in the case of so-called fold or. cape collars, provide a fold line between the cape portion and neck band portion so constructed that it will almost automatically fold and will at all times present a smooth rounded fold so reinforced as to resist fracture along the fold line, without the presence of the usual heavy and cumbersome seam employed in uniting the cape and neck band portions.

To the above ends the present invention consists of the fused collar which will be hereinafter described and claimed.

The present invention is shown in the accompanying drawings in which similar reference characters designate corresponding parts.

Fig. 1 shows a plan view of one of the outer plies of a turn down or fold collar.

Fig. 2 shows a plan view of a fusible interlining for the cape portion of the collar.

Fig. 3 shows a plan view of afus'ible interlining for the neck band portion of the collar.

Fig. 4shows a plan view of the two-part interlining formed of the parts shown in Figs. 2 and 3.

Fig. 5 shows, diagrammatically, a vertical section'taken' on the line 5-5 in Figure 4.

Fig. 6 shows a plan view of the interlining shown in Fig. 4 superimposed'upon and united along the lower edge to one of the outer plies of the collar. f

Fig. '7 shows, diagrammatically, a vertical section taken on the line 66 in Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 shows the parts in Fig. 6 superimposed upon another of the outer plies of the collar, the various plies including the interlining being stitched together previous to turning.

Fig. 9 shows, diagrammatically, a section taken on the line 99 in Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 shows one end of the collar after turning and stitching but before fusing.

Fig. 11 shows, diagrammatically, a vertical section taken on the line |lll in Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is a view similarto Fig. 10, showing the collar after fusing and the manner of at tachment to the shirt material.

Fig. 13 shows, diagrammatically, asectional view taken on the line iii-i3 in Fig. 12. (This figure does not and is not intended to show the actual condition after fusing the collar.)

As shown the collar comprises outer plies i and it (see Figs. 1 and 9) of any suitable textile fabric such as broadcloth or other shirtings, and it is of a suitable size and shape to produce the style of collar wanted, having a cape portion 2 and neck band portion as embodied in a socalled cape or turn down collar. There will be of course two such outer plies employed in the construction of the collar. The fusible interlining is made of fabric preferably embodying and containing some suitable fusible material such as acetate cellulose, the yarns embodying or carrying the desired amount of acetate cellulose strands. These acetate cellulose strands may be combined with core yarns of cotton or other fibers with the cellulose strands twisted preferably about the outer surface of the cotton core in spiral form. V

The cape portion of the interlining is shown as formed of a blank i (see Fig. 2) of fusible fabric having inclined or beveled ends 5 with the points cut oil. as indicated at 6. Also at each end will be formed a notched recess 1 and the upper line or edge 8 which extends longitudinally of the blank will be cut corresponding to and cinciding with the edge 9 of the blanks forming the outer plies.

The neck band portion of the. interlining comprises a blank l0 (see Fig. 3) of fusible fabric and as indicated at H and I2 (Figs. 2 and 3), the texture of the fusible interlining is light and fine in the cape portion and relatively coarser and heavier in the neck band portion. The blank Ill for the neck band portion will be rounded at each end (as indicated at l3) and will be of suitable width to correspond with the neck band portion 3 of the outer plies of the collar. While the base line I4 and the top line I of the blanks 4 and I0 respectively, are shown as cut substantially straight, they may be cut on a curved line should the style of collar require that the fold line be in a curve.

As shown in Fig. 4, the blanks l and III are overlapped and united by seam IS. The relative position of the blanks l and Ill before being connected by the seam I6 is determined by the notches I at opposite ends of the blank 4. When the blanks 4 and II) are brought together with the edges superimposed (as shown in Fig. 4) with the seam l6 positioned-as indicated, the fold line of the finished collar will be such as to position the lap seam wholly within the outline of the neck band portion therof, thus leaving the fold line free from surplus material and the resultant seams.

The next step in the manufacture of the collar is shown in Fig. 6 wherein the fusible interlining consisting of the blanks 4 and I0, are superimposed upon the outer ply I with the edges 8 of the interlining and 9 of the outer ply coinciding with the beveled edges 5 of the cape portion 4 of the interlining coinciding with the beveled ends of the cape portion of the outer ply, and with the points I! of the cape portion 2 of the outer ply projecting beyond the beveled ends 6 of the cape portion 4 of the interlining. The positioning of the interlining with relation to the outer ply I as described will bring the marginal curved ends I3 of the neck band portion III of the interlining within the marginal outlines of the ends of the neck band portion with the bottom edge I8 thereof within the outer boundaries of the curved ends of the neck band portion 3 of the outer ply I. When thus positioned the lower edge I9 of the outer ply I will be turned over and stitched to the lower edge I8 of the neck band portion In of the interlining, as indicated at 20, forming a hem 2I. Preferably these two parts, that is to say, the interlining and the outer ply I will be assembled so that the unfinished surface of the outer ply I will be in direct contact with the adjacent surface of the interlining.

The structure (as shown in Fig. 6) is then laid upon the finished surface of another outer ply 22 (see Figs. 8 and 9) and these parts will be accurately positioned so that the marginal edges of the cape portion of the *combined parts will exactly coincide. When thus positioned with the finished surfaces of the outer plies I and 22 in contact with each other (as shown in Figs. 8 and 9) the parts are united by a seam or line of stitches 23 which closely approximates the marginal curved edges I3 at opposite ends of the portion I of the interlining (as indicated in Fig. 8) but is within the marginal edges constituting the cape portion of the collar, leaving portions extending to form the seam flaps. The lower edges 2I and 21 are not stitched together at this stage.

Having stitched together the outer plies I and 22 and the interlining comprising the neck band section III and the cape section 4, while wrong side out as it is termed (as shown in Figs. 8 and 9), the ends or points I "I are cut off on the angular lines 24 beyond the stitches 23 and also at the angle formed by the meeting of the beveled lines of the cape portions and the curved lines at each end of the neck band portion the edges are notched, as indicated at 25. This facilitates the turning of the collar (as shown in Fig. 8). When turned the outer ply 22 will be brought over and cover the interlining (as indicated in Figs. and 11) and seam 23 will form the turned edges. Thereafter and before fusing, an additional seam 26 may be put in to unite the outer plies and interlining at a suitable distance from the marginal edges of the cape portion of the collar, but along the rounded curved edges of the neck band portion the seam 26 will closely approximate the edges thereof.

The lower edge of the outer ply 22 will project, below the hem 2I forming the lower edge of the outer ply I as indicated at 21. In this condition the collar is fused in a manner well known so as to cause the several plies, including the interlining, to adhere and be united throughout the entire area with the exception of that portion of the interlining which is covered by the hem 2|. In the fusing operation the lower edge 21 of the outer ply 22 will be entirely free from a point corresponding substantially to the upper edge I9 of the hem 2I to the edge 21 of the outer ply 22. At all other parts of the collar the parts are adhesively united by the fusing of the cellulose acetate material carried by the interlining.

The collar may now be finished as a separate collar by turning up the projecting edge 21 of the outer ply 22 and forming a hem therein (as indicated in Fig. 13) and uniting the two coinciding hems by a line of stitches 29 approximating the edge and coinciding with the hem 2I, or the material of the body of the shirt 28 around the neck opening may be inserted in the space between the hem 2| and the edge 21 which may be doubled up to form a hem and the two hems sewed together by a line of stitching 29 (all as indicated in Figs. 12 and 13).

After the fused collar has been attached to the shirt (as shown in Fig. 12), it will be found to be properly positioned at all points along the line of union between the neck band portion thereof and the shirt body. As the depth of the space created by the non-fusing of the hem 2I to the outer ply 22 will be clearly defined by the upper edge of the hem 2I, this line marking the limit of the area of fusion, which corresponds to the edge of the hem 2I, will leave a space of uniform depth at all points along the bottom edge, thus forming a positive gauge to regulate the insertion of the edge of the shirt material therein, preliminary to permanently fixing the collar to the shirt by the line of stitching 29.

It will of course be understood that the socalled diagrammatic sectional views (Figs. 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13) are not to be understood as actually representing sections of the various parts or the fabric of which they are made,

i nor the actual condition of such parts at the several stages of assembling and uniting them, but are merely intended to illustrate the relative condition and relation of the parts at different stages in the assembling and uniting of them. For instance, referring to Fig. 13, which is a diagrammatic section taken on line I3 01' Fig. 12, the collar has been subjected to the fusing operation involving the employment of a suitable solvent for dissolving the acetate cellulose strands embodied in the interlining and subjected to pressure or heat and pressure which force the various parts orv elements in close contact adhesively uniting them at all points excepting the portions of the outer plies along the lower edge which project below the upper edge of the hem 2I. This fusing causes a close contact of all the elements and a flattening of all the seams leaving both faces of the collar perfectly smooth and practically eliminating all visual evidence of the lap seam which unites the two members of the interlining.

The collar possesses great strength with the use of a minimum quantity of material, in which both outer surfaces will be perfectly smooth and at the same time providing a fold line which is almost automatic in operation. Furthermore, by employing a relatively fine light fabric for the interlining in the cape portion and a relatively coarse heavy fabric for the interlining in the neck band portion, the cape portion and neck band portion of the collar will be of such relain which the various parts can be accurately and relatively positioned by an operator of ordinary skill and one which produces a collar which may be readily attached to the body of a shirt and will at all times retain the desired smooth appearance. Of course it is understood that the collar will resist the action of moisture such as excessive perspiration and will not wilt, while at the same time it may be freely laundered without destroying the stifiening eflect of the fusing material, all in the usual manner of socalled fused collars.

' It will be further understood that in assembling the parts (as shown in Figs. 6 to 9 inclusive), assuming that the outer plies are cut from material which has the surfaces of different finish or a right and "wrong side, the interlining will be laid upon the wrong side of an outer ply and the two plies thus assembled (as shown in Figs. 6 and '7), will be laid upon the finished or right side of the other outer ply, thus bringing the finished surfaces in contact with each other (as shown in Figs. 8 and 9). When stitched to ether after the projecting-edges have been mitered, as it were, by cutting away portions of the edges outside of the line of stitches at the points and notching (as shown in Fig. 8), the collar is tm'ned, which brings the lowermost outer ply over the interlining thus uncovering the finished surface of both plies. At this stage of the process the collar is fused in the usual manner and may be attached to the shirt and finished, during which the lower edges are united, or, if a collar separate from the shirt is desired, the lower edges are stitched together thus producing a finished collar.

I claim:

A fused collar formed of single outer plies of woven fabric of suitable contour and size to form a cape portion and a neck band portion and a fusible inter-lining comprising a cape member and a neck band member, the cape member formed of a relatively light, fine woven fabric and the neck band member formed of relatively heavy, coarse woven fabric, both members formed of cotton or other suitable yams carrying acetate cellulose strands, a line of stitches uniting the two members with the upper edge of the neck band member extending above the lower edge of the cape member and defining a fold line within the cape portion of the collar above the line of stitches and parallel thereto immediately adjacent to the upper edge of the neck band member, the plies of "the collar and the interlining being fused together "in both the cape portion and the neck band portion, the fold line terminating at each end at the apex of the angle formed by the ends of the cape and neck band portions of the finished collar.

RICHARD C. CAMPBELL;