US1347050A - Garment and method of cutting the same - Google Patents

Description

M. C. MURPHY.

GARMENT AND METHOD OF CUTTING THE SAME. APPLfCATION FILED JAN. 25, 1919.

1,347,050. Paten d July 20, 1920.

- which MARY C. MURPHY, OF HAVERHILL, MA SSAGHUSETTS.

GARMENT AND METHOD OF CUTTING THE SAME.

Specification'of Letters Patent.

Patented July 20, 1920.

Application filed January 25, 1919. Serial No. 273,137.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARY C. MURPHY, a

citizen of the United States, andresident of Haverhill, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Garments and Methods of Cutting the Same, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to certain improvements in garments, such as coats, jackets and the like, which are provided with sleeves, and more especially, working garments, such as shop coats for which no particular style, or exact fit is demanded, and the body portion of which ismade without seams, and also to improvements in methods in cutting out, or forming the parts of which such garments are made. I

The objects of my invention are to pro vide a form of garment, and a method of cutting out or. forming the parts of which it is to be constructed, which will' reduce the expense of cutting and will enable the garment to be produced with a minimum quantity of material, as compared with the quantity required when ordinary methods are employed, and which will also enable the garment to be assembled with a minimum amount of labor, so that, in producing garments of this description, a substantial saving in both material and labor may be made.

These objects are accomplished by the employment of the method hereinafter described and by constructing the garment as illustrated in the accompanying drawing in Figure 1 is a plan View of the main pattern or pieces of which a garment made ac cording to the invention is formed, and

Figs. 2 and 3 are, respectively, front and side views of the assembled garment.

In order that the garment may be cut with the greatest saving of material, the width of the cloth should, with the single exception hereinafter noted, be sufficient to extend from front edge to front edge of the body portion, without seam, so that, in cutting, the cloth may be folded double and a pattern of half the body portion and of a sleeve may be laid thereon, as hereinafter described, but the advantages ofmy inven tion may be equally'well secured if the width of the cloth is merelyone-half that above described, so that two breadths, in

lieu of a doubled breadth, will be employed, in which case it will be merely necessary to form a seam down the middle of the back of the garment, in making the same, which would not be otherwise necessary.

As shown in the drawing, the garment consists of three principal pieces, viz., the body section a and two one-piece sleeve sec tions 5. The pattern for the body section a, for an ordinary work coat, for example, is illustrated in Fig. 1, and corresponds to exactly one-half the whole body section, the edge a corresponding to the middle back line of the garment, said line being the line on which the breadth is folded, if it is a double breadth, or the line on which two single breadths are seamed together, and the edge (4 to the front edges thereof. In this connection, it may be noted that the greatest economy is secured, with the herein described method, by cutting different sizes of coats from breadths of cloth of correspondingly varying widths. At the top edge of the body section, the portion a, which, on the cut out piece is double the length shown, or is duplicated corresponds to the middle portion of the back of the neck, at the end, as, of which the cut extends obliquely inward, forming an edge a, and then curves and extends obliquely outward, forming an edge a the edges a a being convergently disposed and forming the margin of the arm-scyes, in the shape, when laid flat, of wedge-shaped notches. The edge a meets the front top edge, a, at the point on, said edge a being formed to fit the front portion of the neck, and being adapted to be turned out to form lapels or revers, and sufficient fullness being provided to permit overlapping. The front and rear edges of the cuts formed for the arm-scyes differ somewhat in obliquity, to correspond more closely to the human body.

The sleeve pattern b is of the whole sleeve laid, flat, so that, when used on a double thickness of material, as before described, a right and a left sleeve'will be cut out at one time. Each sleeve is formed to provide two longitudinal edges, Z), N, which are adapted to be joined in a seam which extends from the armpit to the Wrist, beneath the arm of the wearer, and two edges, b 1), which extend convergently from the ends of edges Z), 5 at the points y, y, and meet at points z, z, a transverse end edge 6 which is shaped'to fit the side portion of theneck of the wearer, being, in practice, concavely curved, to a slight degree.

In assembling the garment, theed ges b", 1

b of the sleeve are seamed together, so that the points y, y are brought together. The point z, at the neck portion of the sleeve, extends beyond the end-of the pattern at its middle, slightly more than the opposite point z, and, in attaching the sleeve to the body portion, the point z is arranged to coincide with the point at, and the point z with the point a",'the edge being seamed to the edge 0.", and the edge I) to the edge a so that the'meeting points 1 y of the sleeve are attached at approximately the middle of the curved edge portion between the edges a and a asindicated in Figs. 2 and 3. The edges a, b and a thus extend in continuation,'one with the other, entirely about the neck portion of the garment, and

a collar, asc,may be attached thereto;

As already indicated, the pieces of which the garment is constructed are preferably formed of cloth which is double the width of the body pattern from edge a to edge a so that said pattern may be laid crosswise of the breadth, as indicated in Fig. 1, but, as already indicated, if a double width breadth is not employed, the two single breadths which will be employed, in lieu thereof,

edges, while they do not exactly coincide, do so approximately, so that the waste material 'therebetween is practically negligible The sleeve pattern does not extend the full width of the folded breadth, but as additional cloth is needed for facings, pockets, collars, etc, these parts may be cut from the portions of the breadth at each side of-the'sleeve pattern, so that the whole garment is cut from a length of the cloth which extends from the bottom edge of the body section, to the cuff end of the arm section,

when the two sections are laid in the relation above described and shown in Fig. 1, or obviously, these parts might be cut with equal economy from two breadths of cloth of a width equal to this same distance, but, in practice, the arrangement of the patterns, similarly to that shown in Fig. 1, is considered more desirable.

The economy in cutting by forming and V arranging the patterns as. above described is due to several reasons. One reason is that, as a rule, thefewer thepieces ofwhich the article is formed, the greater the economy in cutting. Another is dueto the shape of the shoulder extension on the sleeve, the end portion of which is entirely formed from the cloth which is cut out in forming the arm-scye notches, and which leaves but little waste at thi'spoint; the only pieces of consequence which are always left, after cutting out the two main patterns, being the two pair of whole pieces which are left at each side of the sleeve pattern, from which the necessarily'small parts of the garment maybecut.v V j In a factory making large numbers of these garments, muchcomplication is saved by having only two pattern pieces for the whole body section and sleeves of a garment.

While, in describing my method of cutting, I have referred to the cutting of'a single garment from a doubled breadth or from two'single breadths, it will be understood that, in practice,.jwhere electrically operated cutting machines are employed, a large number of breadths are cut through at the same time, and, in carrying out the herein described method, it is simply necessary to cut through an even number of breadths. n

I claim: V

1. A garment comprising a body section having its toped 'e formed to provide collar portions at the ront and at the back and intermediate 'arm scye notches,the edges of which lead from the adjacent ends of said collar portions, and one-piece sleeves extended to form side collar portions, in continuation with said front and back collar portions, and seamed to the' edges'of said notches, thelongitudinal edges of said sleeves being joined by seams extending from the bottom of said notches.

2. A garment comprising a body section having its top edge formed to provide collar portions at'the front and back, and intermediate arm-scye notches, the edges of which lead from the adjacent ends of said collar portions and extend to meet. in a curved line at the bottom of the notch, and

one-piece sleeves, each having its longitii dlnal edges olned ma, seam whlch extends at its under side from the end to the rounded edge portion of its corresponding notch and havinga continuously formed extension adapted to over-lie the shoulder, and

formed to provide side edges, which are seamed to the edges of the corresponding notch, and a transverse end edge which forms a continuation with the adjacent edges of said front and back collar'portions, to form the side collar portion of the garment.

3. The method o'f'cutting'sle'eved garments; which consistsin cuttingfthrough two layers of-cloth at one operation in lines to produce duplicate halves of the garment body sect1on','th e top edge of each of which is shaped to provide duplicate front and back collar portions and an intermediate arm-scye notch, the edges of which extend convergently from the adjacent ends of said collar portions and meet in a curved line at the bottom of the notch, and to produce duplicate one-piece sleeve sections, each having a continuous shoulder extension, the side edges of which converge to a transverse end edge, said side edges being formed for attachment to the corresponding edges of said arm-scye notches and said end edge being formed to complete the collar portion between said front and back collar portions.

4:. The method of cutting sleeved garments which consists in cutting through two layers of cloth, at one operation, in lines to produce duplicate halves of the garment body section, the top edge of each of which is shaped to provide duplicate front and back collar portionsand an intermediate arm-scye notch, the edges of which extend convergently from {the adjacent vends of said collar portions and meet in a curved line at the bottom of the notch, and to produce duplicate one-piece sleeve sections, each having a continuous shoulder extension, the side edges of which converge to a transverse end edge, said side edges being formed for attachment to the corresponding edges of said arm-scye notches and said end edge being formed to complete the collar portion between said front and back collar portions, and in forming the end portions of said shoulder extensions from the material severed in cutting out said notches.

5. The method of cutting sleeved garments which consists in providing a single pattern for one-half the garment body section, with its top end formed to correspond to half of a front and a back collar portion, with an intermediate arm-scye notch, the edges of which extend convergently from the adjacent ends of the edges of said collar portions and meet in a curved line at the bottom of the notch, and providing a single piece sleeve pattern, the longitudinal edges of which are extended convergently and terminate in a transverse end edge shaped to correspond to the collar portion between said front and back collar portions, arranging said patterns on two layers of cloth with said end edge of the sleeve pattern in close proximity to the bottom of the notch of said body pattern and in cutting through said layers at one operation to form the two halves of the garment body section and two sleeves.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

MARY O. MURPHY.

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