US1312459A - lemercier strocker - Google Patents

Description

M. B. LEMERCIER STROCKER.

sRAsslnE CORSET.

APPLlCATON FILED JULY 2, ISH.

Patented Aug. 5, 1919. 3 SHEETS-SHEET 1 M.. n. LEMEHCIER sTRocKER.

sAssxnE consu.

APFLICATWN HLED JULY 21,191?.

Pntenfed Aug. 5, 1919.

HARTKE B. LEMEB/CIER BEL'EOQIKIEB.l 0F WASHINGTON, DISTRICT 0l; COLUMBIA.

Bpegiioatiou o! Lettere Intent.

Patented Aug. 5, 1919.

appnmm inea my si, i911. serial no. uam.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, MARTHE R. Liiiinnoinn S'rnoonnn, a citizen of the United States,

lresiding at Washington, in the District of Columbia. have invented certain new and useful improvements in Brassire-Corsets;

Y and I do herebydeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the arty to which it appertains to make lmade in aceoidance with this process.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a corset and a bust support which eliminate the objectionable flesh ridge or break immediately above the top of the ordinary corset.

Another object. of the invention is to provide a garment which will give a perfect lit and support and i) ret will readily yield to all movements of t e wearer without undue pressure 'or restraint.

Another object of the invention is to provide a perfect support for the base of the shoulder blades; and to provide means to hold the upper ed' of the stiiened body, at both front an back, close to the body of the wearer, thus preventing the ends of the stays from springing outwardly and showing through the outer garments, as is fiequently the case with ordinary corsets, especially when the body is contorted.

Another aim of the invention is to pro' vide a brassire having curved ribsl positioned to conform to the natural hust line of the body.

Another vfeature of the invention resides in thc yieldable connection between the cor set and the brassire which permits the latter to follow the bust movement and which eliminates the objectionable sagging orridi of the brassire in relation to the bust. ntil another feature of' the invention re sides in having the stays adjacent the inner edges of the back gores non-continuous, prov iding a break immediately at the waistline, such non-continuous stays being braced by the adjacent full length stays and also by the provision of a lacing eyelet or other fastening means immediately at the waist line or point of stay breakto assist in the back support and to reduce the impression and ap earance of s, onger waist line.

Anot er feature of the invention relates to the construction of the back of the corset, particularly in the relation of the waist lines on which the rear gores are cut.

These yand other features of the invention will be hereinafter more specifically pointed out. i

Referring to the accompanying drawings in which similar reference numerals indicate corresponding parts,

Figure 1 is a front elevation of the backlaced brassire corset made in accordance with my invention, the left side of the brassire thrown open toshow the curved rib construction.

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the saine.

Fig. 3 is a view showing the unboned gores of the corset laid out iiat, the manner of cutting the brassire being illustrated.

Fi 4 is a detailed view of the back showing tie two rear gores from the waist line4 down cut parallel and the same Ifrom the waist line up` cut at an angle.

Fi 5 is a. detailed view of the corset showing the brassire made in the same ijnanner but `detachable from the Corset proper.

Bi 6 is a view of 'my improved corset provided with a front lace. 4

Fig. 7 is a rear view of the same showing a variation of the manner of constructing the back, and,

Fi 8 is a detailed view of the mode of "denic ably connecting the corset and the brassire.

The corset may .be constructed of any suitable material and of any number of seetions or gores, depending upon the size and figure of 'the wearer. According to thepresent method, the front gores are cut to integrally include the bust portion of the figure. For instance,r as shown in Fig. 3, the front gores 1 and 2 have the bust supporting ortion 10 made from the same piece as e lower corset portion 11.

After the gores are sewed together and the corsetl fitted to. the figure, the bust line i same muy end at anopoint also is determined. This latter muy be that of the individual fitted or an line, where the corsets are to be mede in sizes. The front goles are now cut from the middle line 12 of the front gore along' the bust line 13, to approximately vthe point 14, adjacent to the under erm seem. Only in case where it is desirable to have the brassire or bust support permanently attached to or mede part of the corset as, instance, in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, should this line of Severance 13 terminate at ap mately the point 14. If it be desirs le to make the seine -detachable from the corset proper, the line of severance 13 of the )rnssire is made completely bust supporting portions of those particular gores. For exumple, in Fig. 5 the out 13 wouid be continued to completely sever gore 2.

(')bviouslyLthere may be more than two such front goies and it is also opp-arent that there is no necessity for terminati the severance 13 at the underseem 15 as the infront of or to the rear thereof. t there is no necessity for positioning the seam 15 directly beneath the arm.

While the remaining steps in the process of making my improved corset are those ordinarily used in the corset making nrt of the present day, it is to be understood that the corset itself embodies many novel features of construction which will now be recited.

Figs. 1 and 2 show a. back-laced corset with an attached bust-piece or brassire made as above described. -And as shown in these figuresthe for and at any 'desirable point at the hips thereof. The brassire or bust sup ort 16 which, as has been set forth, is formed) by bust line from the corset proper as et'19, is held in over-lapping relation to the. top

of the corset and yet is permitted to liexilily adjust itself to the movements of thewearer. And this adjusting movement is aided by means of shoulder straps or bands 23, prefacross all the l the front und ack close to the body of the wearer and' ends of the stays from and resehting un ui1- ermore the rear aps 24, provide a. most perfect support for the shoulder blades which tend project in some figures. The curved ribs 17 of the brassire `give und maintain the graceful curved lines of the bust.

For the purpose of assurin a, more correct lacing of the corset, an for securin a natural V-shape between the immediate from the Waist line upwardly in the back the inside lines of the immediate back gores 4 are cut as illustrated in Fig.

As there shown, from the waist line 26 downwardly, parallel but from the waist line 27, so that when the wearer laces herself or is laced, there will be'a tendency for the back 'to assume a natural V-opening et the upper laced ortion, sind the tendency for the lacer to orce the upper inside edges of the back of the corset together is diminished.

he inverted V-shape of the lower lnccd portion is taken care of by the natural shape of the hips.

Furthermore, in order to eliminate vthe constant pressure, rubbing and feverishcondition produced by the usuel rigid, continuous stay members at the back, the inside bone or stay members of the buck gol-es 4' are ended or broken ut the waist line as at 28. VBut in order to provide sulicient rigidity and give u continuous support for the corset the ribs adjacent these non-continuous le to continue uci-oss the weist line ns at 15 und extend pr'eferubl the usual length of the corset. It will lic noticed that a lacing eyelet or other fastening inember 31 is positioned immediutel :it the winst ut the breuk 28 of tlic stay nicmadditional support git the back und gives the wearer the i|nprcssion of s longer waist line.

A corsetlmving u. detachable brassire und made :is hcreiiibcfore set forth is illustrated in detail in Fig. 5 which shows the front gores 1 und 2 und the liuc of severance I3, extending entirely across gore 2 and termi- 130 the top mitin at ore 3. In order to lace or otherwise etac ablyy fasten the brassire or bust piece to corset, the former is provided with the usual eyelets 31 located between the ribs 15 thereof. The corset is likewise provided with eyelets 32 or other fastening means positioned adjacent the stay 15.

To assist in holdin the brassire in position and yet allow exibility of movement thereof -the corset proper. is provided wit an eyelet or fastening'member 33 located below the line of severance 13 or 'in any convenient position so that the bottom of thc brassire may be fastened to the corset. In this manner the bust piece is firmly held on A of corset.

Fi 7 and 8 illustrate the manner in whic my invention may be applied t0 a front laced corset. In the back, instead of having a continuous lace, as illustrated in Fig. 2, there is provided from the waist line to the bottom of the corset, a sset 35 of rubberized fabric, which provi es a iiexible adjustment for the hips, while the upper laced portion permits any adjustment to be made in the back portion of the corset, which once adjusted to the form of the back of the wearer remains permanent as the size of the corset is controlled by the lacing in the front. 1

The front laced corset may have the brassire attached or detached therefrom, the

'. latter construction being shown in Fig. 8. 1 of It is obvious that the curved ribs the bust portion of the corset, which are curved to the natural bust of the wearer or f to an average bust when the corsets are inadeg extendvv `diagonally of the brassire from t e uppei in sizes, and which ribs preferabl and front edges thereof to the lower, and curve toward the underarm of the corset. These ribs which are' preferably small and yieldable are also given a slight bow orf outward bulge to maintain the graceful lines ,of the bust and to assist in holding the same.

And while it is within the contemplation of this invention to arrange the curved ribs to extend diagonally in any directionor curved transversely of the brassire, the present arrangement produces the most pleasing lines and most effectively aids in supporting the bust. Thisrib construction may be applied to anytype of bust support or brassire whether a separate garment or used in connection with my improved corset.

It is clear that theipresent invention is adapted to any type of corset whether low, medium or high top.

Claims:

1. TheV process of making a brassire-corset consisting in cutting the brassire and corset in integral gores, cutting the bust including gores along the bust lme to form a brassire.l

2. The processof making a brassireeorset consisting in cutting the brassire and corset proper in integral gores, cutting certain of the gores along the bust line from the front gores to points substantially at the underarm seam of the corset.

3. The process of making a brassire-corset comprising cutting some of the corset gores to integrally include bust supporting portions, cutting those gores which include h bust su porting portions along the bust line from` t e front gores backward toward the back of the corset, whereby to form a brassire for the corset.`

4. rlhe process of making a brassire-corset comprising cutting some of the corset gores to 'integrally include bust supporting forms with its respective corset gore a con-4 tinuous form fitting gore, said brassire being also resiliently attached to said corset at the front bust line portion.

In a brassire corset the combination 'of a corset portion including a lurality of Y@front gores terminating at the ust line, a

brassire therefor comprising a plurality ,of gores terminating at the bust line and each forming a continuation of its respective corset gore. a shoulderstrap connecting the brassire and corset back and resilient means connectingr the lowermost front por tion of said brassire to said corset whereby said brassire is held fiexibly in bust supporting position.

7. A corset brassire terminating at the bust line and projecting upwardly over the bust, a plurality of curved ribs extending from the bust line thereof diagonally upward to support the bust and preserve the natural contour thereof. 4

8. A. corset having spaced stays on the back goresthereof, the stays at and adjacent the inner edges of the back gores terminating at the waist line thereof, lacing means between said stays, one of such means being directly at the waist line.

9. The combination of a front laced corset, the inner edges of the back gores of said corset being 'oned by a permanent sset of elastic fabric from the waist line ownward and adjustable lacing moans for slid edges from the waist line upward.

10, A corset having the adjacent inner @dgl-,H of its hack gums Cut puruliol from thil wuist lint'4 to the bottom of thvI corsot und out at ull anglo, from the waist lino to tho top of the corset.

l'l. In a1 brassire corset, tho womhinaiion of :L foi-sot portion tho front goi'us of whivh tol-minuto nt the bust lino, n hmssiro com Apower! of bust supporting gotas terminating ut tho bust lino, auch oi' which forms with its rospmztivo coi-sot goro n continuous form tting gore.

12. A col'sot having tho :uijuoont innali-ilgi-s of its hawk gorcs ont lmi'zlllol from tho wais! lino to bottom ot tho i-oirsot und vut :il :in :ingle from the waist lino to tho [op of Hw vormt to lil-nvidia :l suhst-zlntial|ly V Shaped Spin-o hot/woon tho Hmm' portion of Huid (edges, Hjmfml stays on the lmvli goro, th(- stziys; :irlpjfuont tho inni-r migas of smid goros; tor'miim'tilig :it tho waist lino, huing nimma' hvtwoon Huid stays" ono o1' sui-h moons honig llii'm'tly nl tho waist lino whol'ohy the hi'mlic nt thiI wnixt lim' is himorl :nul Hohl V .wlmpwl synoo hot woon Ihi' tligvs' of tho lliu'lc gol-os ir; |ii'o-(i\'od,

In tostiniony wht-wot' I :illix in v siglmflu'c in Ilujiu-xoom o1' two \\'ilnl s sos.

WILNA M. Vienmintiom, Amir-:rrr W. S'ruomilczf.

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