TWI571268B - The formula and method of whitening and moisturizing skin care products - Google Patents
The formula and method of whitening and moisturizing skin care products Download PDFInfo
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本發明係有關一種美白保濕保養品之配方與製程,尤指一種製成美容保養品而可提供良好美容保養功能的配方技術與製造技術。 The invention relates to a formula and a process for whitening and moisturizing skin care products, in particular to a formulating technology and a manufacturing technology for preparing a beauty care product and providing a good beauty maintenance function.
按習知靜電紡絲技術是利用電場正負極相吸原理,將高分子溶液置於注射器中,透過金屬針頭射出,初始之半圓形滴液會受到高壓電場作用而形狀改變,形成泰勒錐(Taylor cone)之外觀,同時噴射出微米級之液柱(jet),液柱直徑會隨著與針頭之距離拉遠而漸漸延展變細,最後被分散開來,進而形成許多更細的奈米級液柱,而溶劑則因為液柱變細而更為容易揮發,最後可於接地之收集板(collector plate)收集微奈米化絲狀纖維,此種技術可參看參考文獻1。 According to the conventional electrospinning technology, the principle of positive and negative phase attraction of electric field is adopted. The polymer solution is placed in a syringe and ejected through a metal needle. The initial semicircular drop is subjected to a high voltage electric field and the shape is changed to form a Taylor cone ( The appearance of the Taylor cone), while jetting a micron-sized jet, the diameter of the liquid column gradually spreads as the distance from the needle is extended, and finally spreads out to form many finer nanometers. The liquid column is used, and the solvent is more volatile because the liquid column is thinner. Finally, the micro-nanofilament fiber can be collected on the grounded collector plate. For the technique, refer to Reference 1.
習知的透明質酸(Hyaluronic acid,Hyaluronan,HA),在1934年首次從眼睛的玻璃體液中被分離出來,其中含有糖醛酸(uronic acid)與胺基糖(amino sugar),因此將此物質命名為透明質酸(hyaluronic acid)(可參看參考文獻2),其為目前所公認的最佳的保濕成分,又稱為醣醛酸、玻尿酸、琉璃醣碳基酸。透明質酸HA是由D-葡萄糖醛酸(D-glucuronic acid)及N-乙醯葡糖胺(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)雙糖單位所重覆組成的高級多醣類,為一級結構。而單糖經由β-1,3醣苷鍵(Glycosidic bond)互相連結,雙糖單位之間以β-1,4醣苷鍵互相連結, 重覆組成鏈狀高分子聚合物,此為二級結構(可參看參考文獻3)。透明質酸分子中含有大量的羧基和羥基,使其可形成分子內和分子間的氫鍵(每個雙醣單位可形成四個氫鍵),因此雙醣單位會因形成平行於分子軸鏈的氫鍵而結合,柱的內側由於存在大量的羥基而產生強親水性,而且透明質酸分子將其結合的水分子鎖定在其雙螺旋柱狀結構中,因此可以吸收和保持其500倍以上的水分,使水分不易流失,具有特殊的保水作用。但因為其間的羧基會彼此排斥,而產生許多不規則的局部螺旋(Helix),佔據大量的空間,透明質酸分子中存在疏水區,使透明質酸分子全鏈纏繞(Coil)而形成網狀的三級結構。透明質酸具有特殊生物學上的活性,且擁有無毒、低免疫反應、高生物相容、及生物可分解以及人體可吸收等特性,因此可用於化妝品、保健食品、醫療領域上,例如做為保濕劑、口服透明質酸、眼睛外科手術、關節內注射液、傷口癒合、外科手術防黏劑(可參看參考文獻4)。 The known hyaluronic acid (Hyaluronan, HA) was first isolated from the vitreous humor of the eye in 1934 and contained uronic acid and amino sugar. The substance is named hyaluronic acid (see Reference 2), which is currently recognized as the best moisturizing ingredient, also known as uronic acid, hyaluronic acid, and glacial sugar carbonic acid. Hyaluronic acid HA is a high-grade polysaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine disaccharide units, which is a primary structure. . The monosaccharides are linked to each other via a β-1,3 glycosidic bond, and the disaccharide units are linked to each other by β-1,4 glycosidic bonds. Repeatedly form a chain polymer, which is a secondary structure (see Reference 3). The hyaluronic acid molecule contains a large amount of carboxyl groups and hydroxyl groups, which can form intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds (each disaccharide unit can form four hydrogen bonds), so the disaccharide unit will be formed parallel to the molecular axis chain. The hydrogen bond is combined, the inner side of the column is strongly hydrophilic due to the presence of a large amount of hydroxyl groups, and the hyaluronic acid molecule locks the water molecules it binds in its double helix columnar structure, so it can absorb and maintain it more than 500 times. The moisture makes it easy to lose moisture and has a special water retention effect. However, because the carboxyl groups in between are mutually repelled, and many irregular local helices (Helix) are generated, occupying a large amount of space, a hydrophobic region exists in the hyaluronic acid molecule, and the hyaluronic acid molecules are completely chain-entangled to form a network. The tertiary structure. Hyaluronic acid has special biological activity and possesses non-toxicity, low immune response, high biocompatibility, biodegradability and absorption of the human body. Therefore, it can be used in cosmetics, health food, and medical fields, for example, as Humectants, oral hyaluronic acid, eye surgery, intra-articular injection, wound healing, surgical anti-adhesive agents (see Reference 4).
熊果素(Arbutin)為對苯二酚的衍生物,俗稱補黑素,是由越橘科植物熊果葉萃取出的成份。熊果素對黑色素形成的抑制作用,是以競爭阻斷的方式降低酪胺酸酵素的活性,達到阻礙黑色素形成之效果。參考文獻5為衛生署公告認可用於化妝品之美白成份,使用限量為7%,不可摻入對苯二酚,且製品中所含不純物對苯二酚須低於20ppm。在美白機制中,影響膚色的主要因素之一為麥拉寧色素,而麥拉寧色素是由麥拉寧色素細胞的胞器-麥拉寧色素體(Melansome)所合成(可參看參考文獻6)。黑色素是由原本就存在體內的酪胺酸(Tyrosine)與酪胺酸酶作用,形成多巴(Dopa),再經酪胺酸酶作用形成多巴醌(Dopaquinone),然後分別形成紅色皮膚型之中間產物Pheomelanin及黑色、白色、亞洲皮膚色型之中間產物 Eumelanin,最後形成混合型之黑色素(mixed type melanins)(可參看參考文獻7)。 Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone, commonly known as melanin, which is extracted from the bearberry leaves of the bilberry family. The inhibitory effect of arbutin on melanin formation is to reduce the activity of tyrosinase by competitive blocking, and to inhibit the formation of melanin. Reference 5 is the whitening ingredient approved by the Department of Health for use in cosmetics. The use limit is 7%, hydroquinone should not be incorporated, and the impurities contained in the product must be less than 20 ppm. In the whitening mechanism, one of the main factors affecting skin color is melanin pigment, and the melanin pigment is synthesized by the melanine of melanin pigment cells (see Reference 6). ). Melanin is formed by the action of Tyrosine and tyrosinase in the body to form Dopa, and then tyrosinase to form Dopaquinone, and then form a red skin type. Intermediate product Pheomelanin and intermediates of black, white and Asian skin color Eumelanin, finally forming mixed type melanins (see Reference 7).
藉由美白成份來抑制或破壞黑色素形成,可以減少黑色素形成,而達成皮膚美白效果。美白成份之作用機制包括抑制黑色素細胞內黑色素的形成,還原體內舊有的黑色素,促進表皮內黑色素的代謝。其中抑制黑色素形成之方式又可分為:(1)抑制酪胺酸酶的合成。(2)阻止酪胺酸酶活化。(3)競爭性取代酪胺酸酵素受質。(4)阻斷麥拉寧黑色素合成之中間物。可參看參考文獻8,熊果素美白原理為利用競爭性取代酪胺酸酶之受質,其會與酪胺酸競爭酪胺酸酶之活性結合位,導致酪胺酸酶之活性下降,進而阻礙酪胺酸進一步氧化成多巴以及多巴醌,達到抑制黑色素形成之功效(可參看參考文獻9)。 By inhibiting or destroying the formation of melanin by whitening ingredients, it is possible to reduce the formation of melanin and achieve a skin whitening effect. The mechanism of action of whitening ingredients includes inhibiting the formation of melanin in melanocytes, reducing the old melanin in the body, and promoting the metabolism of melanin in the epidermis. The way to inhibit the formation of melanin can be further divided into: (1) inhibition of the synthesis of tyrosinase. (2) Prevent tyrosinase activation. (3) Competitive substitution of tyrosine enzyme substrate. (4) Blocking the intermediate of melanin melanin synthesis. See Reference 8, the principle of arbutin whitening is to use a competitive substitution of tyrosinase, which competes with tyrosine for the binding site of tyrosinase activity, resulting in decreased activity of tyrosinase, which hinders tyrosine The amine acid is further oxidized to dopa and dopaquinone to achieve the effect of inhibiting melanin formation (see Reference 9).
苦杏仁酸(Mandelic Acid),又名扁桃酸、苯乙醇酸,其化學式為C8H8O3,可單獨或配合抗氧化維生素使用,對治療皮膚具有多種助益效果,包括抗菌效果及改善光老化皮膚,痤瘡,色素沉著異常,和皮膚紋理,可參看參考文獻10。 Mandelic Acid, also known as mandelic acid and phenylglycolic acid, has a chemical formula of C8H8O3. It can be used alone or in combination with antioxidant vitamins. It has a variety of beneficial effects on the treatment of skin, including antibacterial effects and improving photoaging skin, acne. , pigmentation abnormalities, and skin texture, see reference 10.
化妝品之製造及使用過程中,難免受到空氣中細菌、黴菌等微生物的汙染,因此化妝品中必須添加抗菌劑。而本研究中為降低皮膚過敏性而使用天然葡萄柚籽做為抗菌劑。葡萄柚籽萃取液,是由葡萄柚果肉以及種子內所萃取而得之液體,具有抗菌效果(可參看參考文獻11),屬於水相抗菌劑,可添加於食品和化妝品中,是一種安全、天然、有效的抗菌劑。其抗菌、抗病毒和抗真菌的特性(可參看參考文獻12),使部分醫生將其作為替代藥物,用於治療念珠菌病,耳痛,咽喉感染和腹瀉等症狀。 During the manufacture and use of cosmetics, it is inevitable to be contaminated by microorganisms such as bacteria and mold in the air. Therefore, antibacterial agents must be added to cosmetics. In this study, natural grapefruit seeds were used as antibacterial agents to reduce skin allergies. Grapefruit seed extract is a liquid extracted from grapefruit pulp and seeds. It has antibacterial effect (see Reference 11). It is an aqueous phase antibacterial agent that can be added to foods and cosmetics. It is a safe, A natural, effective antibacterial agent. Its antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties (see Reference 12) have led some physicians to use it as an alternative medicine for the treatment of candidiasis, earache, throat infections and diarrhea.
多數女性旅行時總會攜帶許多瓶瓶罐罐的保養品,不但占空間,在收納上又造成諸多不便。目前市面上是以化妝棉沾附的使用方式。其中,化妝棉大多為棉、木漿、不織布等一次性使用的材質,用後即丟,對環境汙染有相當大的負擔。為了解決前述的缺點,本發明人等乃以多年豐富的研究設計經驗積極投入研發,經不斷的研究、實作與試驗,終開發創造出結合熊果素(Arbutin)及透明質酸(Hyaluronic Acid)等成份而具有美白保濕、防腐抗菌功效之新型固態美容保養品。而且,應用靜電紡絲技術,直接將其製成奈米化纖維薄膜,使用時可直接被皮膚吸收,達到垃圾減量、縮小包裝、方便攜帶及功能不減等目的。 Most women always carry many bottles and cans of skin care products when they travel, which not only takes up space, but also causes inconvenience in storage. Currently, the market is covered by a cotton pad. Among them, most of the cotton pads are cotton, wood pulp, non-woven fabrics and other disposable materials, which are thrown away after use, and have a considerable burden on environmental pollution. In order to solve the above-mentioned shortcomings, the present inventors have actively invested in research and development with years of rich research and design experience, and through continuous research, implementation, and experimentation, the final development has created the combination of Arbutin and Hyaluronic Acid. A new solid beauty care product with whitening, moisturizing, antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Moreover, by applying electrospinning technology, it can be directly made into a nano-fibrous fiber film, which can be directly absorbed by the skin during use, and achieves the purpose of reducing the amount of garbage, reducing the packaging, facilitating carrying and function.
本發明第一目的,在於提供一種美白保濕保養品之配方與製程。其技術手段係採用包括有透明質酸、熊果素、苦杏仁酸及葡萄柚籽抗菌劑至少其中一種的美容配方材料溶於水中,並利用一加工技術將該美容配方材料溶液製成美容保養品。 A first object of the present invention is to provide a formula and a process for whitening and moisturizing skin care products. The technical method comprises dissolving a cosmetic formula material comprising at least one of hyaluronic acid, arbutin, mandelic acid and grapefruit seed antibacterial agent in water, and using the processing technology to form the cosmetic formula material solution into a beauty care product.
本發明第二目的,在於提供一種美白保濕保養品之配方與製程。其技術手段係採用包括有透明質酸、熊果素、苦杏仁酸及葡萄柚籽抗菌劑至少其中一種的美容配方材料溶於水中,並利用靜電紡絲技術將該美容配方材料溶液噴絲而製成纖維薄膜,以做為美容美白保濕等保養的面膜或皮膚護膜。 A second object of the present invention is to provide a formula and a process for whitening and moisturizing skin care products. The technical method is prepared by dissolving a cosmetic formula material comprising at least one of hyaluronic acid, arbutin, mandelic acid and grapefruit seed antibacterial agent in water, and spinning the cosmetic formula material solution by electrospinning technology. Fiber film, used as a facial mask or skin mask for beauty whitening and moisturizing.
10‧‧‧噴射裝置 10‧‧‧Injection device
11‧‧‧噴嘴 11‧‧‧Nozzles
20‧‧‧收集板 20‧‧‧ collecting board
30‧‧‧纖維 30‧‧‧Fiber
圖1為本發明之靜電紡絲技術裝置; 圖2為本發明之紡絲液保濕效能測試結果;圖3為酪胺酸酶抑制效能測定之結果,K代表麴酸Kojic acid,濃度分別為10mM和1mM,做為正控制組;A代表熊果素Arbutin濃度分別為0.18和0.04mM,做為對照組;圖4為本發明之紡絲液抗菌效能測試結果比較圖,S代表金黃色葡萄球菌,E代表大桿菌,P代表綠膿桿菌;圖5為本發明之成品保濕效能測試結果;圖6為本發明之乾式成品美白效能測試結果,K代表麴酸Kojic acid,其濃度分別為10mM和1mM,做為正控制組;A代表濃度分別為0.18和0.04mM之熊果素Arbutin,做為對照組;圖7為本發明的配方對照表之示意圖;圖8(A)為本發明以表1之(b),(d)和(e)保濕液配方進行對金黃色葡萄球菌之測試;圖8(B)為本發明以表1之(b),(d)和(e)保濕液配方進行對大腸桿菌之測試;圖8(C)為本發明以表1之(b),(d)和(e)保濕液配方進行對綠膿桿菌之測試;圖9為本發明之以靜電紡絲液流速為20μl/min,噴絲時間60min,所製成的薄膜之SEM照片;圖(a)薄膜之紡絲電場為15KV/8cm;圖(b)為圖(a)之局部放大;圖(c)薄膜之紡絲電場為15KV/10cm;圖10為本發明之靜電紡絲乾式成品;圖11之樣品(1)為圖7之配方(b)但去除葡萄柚籽抗菌劑之靜電紡絲乾式成品,樣品(2)為配方(b)經靜電紡絲技術製造之靜電紡絲乾式成品,樣品(3)為配方(b)以澆注方式製作之薄膜;圖(A)為本發明之各樣品對金黃色葡萄 球菌之抑制測試樣品;圖(B)為本發明之各樣品對大腸桿菌之抑制測試;圖(C)為本發明之各樣品對綠膿桿菌之抑制測試;圖12(A)為本發明之成品包裝,以鋁箔封膜;圖12(B)為本發明之成品包裝,以夾鏈袋封口。 Figure 1 is an electrospinning technology device of the present invention; 2 is the result of the moisturizing efficacy test of the spinning solution of the present invention; FIG. 3 is the result of measuring the potency of tyrosinase inhibition, K represents Kojic acid, and the concentrations are 10 mM and 1 mM, respectively, as positive control group; A represents arbutin The concentration of Arbutin was 0.18 and 0.04 mM, respectively, as a control group; Figure 4 is a comparison chart of the antibacterial efficacy test results of the spinning solution of the present invention, S represents Staphylococcus aureus, E represents large bacillus, and P represents Pseudomonas aeruginosa; The result of the moisturizing performance test of the finished product of the present invention; FIG. 6 is the result of the dry finished whitening efficacy test of the present invention, wherein K represents Kojic acid, and the concentrations thereof are 10 mM and 1 mM, respectively, as a positive control group; A represents a concentration of 0.18, respectively. And 0.04 mM Arbutin as a control group; FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of a formula comparison table of the present invention; and FIG. 8(A) is a moisturizing liquid formulation of Table 1 (b), (d) and (e) of the present invention. Test for S. aureus; Figure 8 (B) shows the test for E. coli in the moisturizing liquid formulations of Tables 1 (b), (d) and (e); Figure 8 (C) is the present invention The test for Pseudomonas aeruginosa was carried out with the moisturizing liquid formulations of (b), (d) and (e) of Table 1; The electrospinning solution has a flow rate of 20 μl/min and a spinning time of 60 min. The SEM photograph of the prepared film; the (a) film has a spinning electric field of 15 kV/8 cm; and (b) is a partial enlargement of the figure (a). Figure (c) The spinning electric field of the film is 15KV/10cm; Figure 10 is the electrospinning dry product of the present invention; the sample (1) of Figure 11 is the formulation (b) of Figure 7 but the grapefruit seed antibacterial agent is removed. Electrospinning dry finished product, sample (2) is formulation (b) electrospinning dry finished product manufactured by electrospinning technology, sample (3) is formulation (b) film produced by casting method; figure (A) is Each sample of the invention against golden yellow grapes The inhibition test sample of cocci is shown; (B) is the inhibition test of Escherichia coli for each sample of the present invention; (C) is the inhibition test of Pseudomonas aeruginosa for each sample of the present invention; FIG. 12(A) is the invention of the present invention. The finished product is packaged with aluminum foil; Figure 12 (B) is the finished package of the present invention, which is sealed with a zipper bag.
本發明之技術特徵係運用靜電紡絲技術,結合熊果素(Arbutin)、透明質酸(Hyaluronic Acid)、苦杏仁酸(Mandelic Acid)等保養成份與聚乙二醇(PEO)、葡萄柚籽抗菌劑等產品配方,以紡絲液流速20μl/min,電場為15KV/8cm,噴絲時間60min之條件所製成具美白抗菌功能之乾式纖維薄膜保養品。 The technical feature of the present invention is to combine the maintenance ingredients such as Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid and Mandelic Acid with polyethylene glycol (PEO) and grapefruit seed antibacterial agent by electrospinning technology. The product formulation is made into a dry fiber film skin care product with whitening antibacterial function with a spinning solution flow rate of 20 μl/min, an electric field of 15 kV/8 cm, and a spinning time of 60 min.
本發明實驗例的實驗材料(Materials)係採用透明質酸Hyaluronic acid,HA(MW=1440,000)、熊果素Arbutin(MW=272.25)、苦杏仁酸Mandelic Acid(MW=152.14)、聚氧化乙烯(Polyethylene oxide,PEO)(MW=900,000)、葡萄柚籽抗菌劑、圓形紙盤paper disc(直徑8mm)、胰酶大豆肉湯(Tryptic Soybean Broth,TSB)的液態培養基、胰蛋白腖大豆瓊脂(Tryptone soy agar,TSA)乾式培養基,使用前無需經過前處理。50mM磷酸鈉溶液(Sodium phosphate buffer),使用前以0.01N氫氧化鈉NaOH調整pH值至6.8,2mM 3,4-二羥苯丙氨酸(L-DOPA),100U/ml酪氨酸酶Tyrosinase,10mM與1mM麴酸(Kojic acid),於實驗使用前配製,大腸桿菌Escherichia coli、金黃色葡萄球菌Staphylococcus aureus、綠膿桿菌Pseudomonas aeruginosa,使用培養12小時之菌液。 The experimental materials of the experimental examples of the present invention were hyaluronic acid, HA (MW=1440,000), Arbutin (MW=272.25), mandelic acid (MW=152.14), polyethylene oxide ( Polyethylene oxide, PEO) (MW=900,000), grapefruit seed antibacterial agent, round paper tray paper disc (diameter 8mm), tryptic Soybean Broth (TSB) liquid medium, tryptone soy agar (Tryptone) Soy agar, TSA) Dry medium, without pretreatment before use. 50 mM sodium phosphate buffer, adjusted to pH 6.8 with 0.01 N sodium hydroxide NaOH before use, 2 mM 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), 100 U/ml tyrosinase Tyrosinase 10 mM and 1 mM citric acid (Kojic acid) were prepared before the experiment, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and cultured for 12 hours.
本發明實驗例的實驗步驟(Procedure of Experiment)係先 進行美容保濕液配方之製備。一般化妝品中透明質酸之添加百分率為0.1%~0.5%,本配方設計添加透明質酸0.2%與0.3%進行保濕能力比較。而熊果素在衛生署公告使用限量為7%,為避免高濃度引起過敏,配方設計1%與5%之配方進行酪胺酸酶抑制效能比較。而苦杏仁酸屬於果酸類,同樣可能因高濃度而引起過敏,因此設計添加1%。聚氧化乙烯PEO需達5%以上才能經由靜電紡絲技術製成薄膜,在本實驗例的配方當中是添加7%,主要是做為成膜劑之用。葡萄柚籽僅需0.5%就有相當顯著之抗菌效果,而3%以上便會在配方中產生沉澱,因此配方設計0.5%、1%、2%進行抗菌能力比較。 The experimental procedure of the experimental example of the present invention is first Preparation of a cosmetic moisturizing liquid formulation. The percentage of hyaluronic acid added in general cosmetics is 0.1% to 0.5%. This formula is designed to add hyaluronic acid 0.2% and 0.3% for moisturizing ability comparison. The arbutin was announced in the Department of Health to use a limit of 7%. To avoid high levels of allergies, the formula 1% and 5% of the formula were compared for tyrosinase inhibition. While bitter almond acid belongs to fruit acids, it may also cause allergies due to high concentration, so the design is added 1%. Polyethylene oxide PEO needs to be more than 5% to form a film through electrospinning technology. In the formulation of this experimental example, 7% is added, mainly as a film-forming agent. Grapefruit seeds only need 0.5% to have a significant antibacterial effect, while more than 3% will precipitate in the formula, so the formula design 0.5%, 1%, 2% for antibacterial ability comparison.
本發明進行了美容保濕液配方之有效性的評估,亦即進行了皮膚短效性保濕能力測試。實驗例中,係以圖7所示的配方(a)、(b)作為樣品進行測試。步驟如下:測試條件為相對濕度在45±5%,室溫為25±3℃;雙手洗淨後先以膚質計測定手腕內側固定位置之皮膚含水量;測量後實驗組迅速塗抹100μl待測溶液,對照組則靜置;每隔10分鐘以膚質計測定皮膚含水量,每次測試3回,取平均值,連續測定90min;及將結果數據製成圖表,觀察其保濕效能。 The present invention performs an evaluation of the effectiveness of a cosmetic moisturizing liquid formulation, that is, a skin short-acting moisturizing ability test. In the experimental examples, the tests were carried out using the formulations (a) and (b) shown in Fig. 7 as samples. The procedure is as follows: the test conditions are relative humidity of 45±5%, and room temperature is 25±3°C; after washing with both hands, the skin moisture content of the fixed position inside the wrist is measured by the skin mass meter; after the measurement, the experimental group is quickly applied with 100 μl. The solution was measured, and the control group was allowed to stand; the skin water content was measured by skin mass measurement every 10 minutes, and each test was performed 3 times, and the average value was continuously measured for 90 minutes; and the result data was graphed to observe the moisturizing efficiency.
本發明進行了美容保濕液配方之美白功效體外試驗,亦即進行了酪胺酸酶抑制效能測試。實驗例中,係以圖7配方(b)、(c)作為樣品進行測試。步驟如下:在96孔盤中加入濃度2mM之140μl的3,4-二羥苯丙氨酸L-DOPA;加入40μl之樣品溶液;正控制組以濃度10mM及1mM之麴酸Kojic acid取代樣品;負控制組以濃度50mM之磷酸鈉溶液Sodium phosphate buffer(pH6.8)取代樣品;加入20μl之100U/ml的酪胺酸酶Tyrosinase;25℃下避光反應30分鐘;測定O.D.475之吸光值;計算樣品 對酪胺酸酶之抑制率;及根據結果數據製圖,並判定其抑制酪胺酸酶之能力。 The invention carries out an in vitro test of the whitening effect of the cosmetic moisturizing liquid formula, that is, the tyrosinase inhibition performance test. In the experimental examples, the tests were carried out using the formulations (b) and (c) of Fig. 7 as samples. The procedure is as follows: 140 μl of 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine L-DOPA at a concentration of 2 mM is added to a 96-well plate; 40 μl of the sample solution is added; and the positive control group is substituted with a concentration of 10 mM and 1 mM of citric acid Kojic acid; The negative control group was replaced with sodium phosphate buffer (pH 6.8) at a concentration of 50 mM; 20 μl of 100 U/ml tyrosinase Tyrosinase was added; the reaction was protected from light for 30 minutes at 25 ° C; the absorbance of OD 475 was measured; The inhibition rate of the sample to tyrosinase was calculated; and the results were plotted against the data and the ability to inhibit tyrosinase was determined.
本發明進行了美容保濕液配方之安全性評估,亦即進行了防腐效能試驗,以瓊脂紙錠擴散法(agar disc diffusion method)進行實驗。實驗例中,係以圖7所示的配方(b)、(d)、(e)作為樣品進行試驗。步驟包括:取大腸桿菌、金黃色葡萄球菌、綠膿桿菌培養於胰蛋白腖大豆瓊脂(Tryptone soy agar,TSA)培養基(含:胰蛋白腖Tryptone 15g/l,大豆腖Soytone或Thiopeptone或Thiotone 5g/l,氯化鈉(NaCl 5g/l,Agar)12小時之菌液;將三種菌液個別測定O.D.595之吸光值,將OD值控制在0.7~0.8範圍內;取200μl之菌液,塗抹於胰酶大豆肉湯(Tryptic Soybean Broth,TSB)乾式培養基(含:胰蛋白腖Tyrptone 17g/l,大豆萃取物Soybean Extract 3g/l,磷酸氫二鉀K2HPO4 2.5g/l,氯化鈉NaCl 5g/l,葡萄糖Dextrose 2.5g/l),每種塗抹三盤,共計九盤;取抑菌環貼片,沾取不同濃度之待測溶液,分別貼於乾式培養基上;置於37℃培養箱中培養12小時;及觀察抑菌環的大小,以判定其抗菌效能。 The present invention conducts a safety evaluation of a cosmetic moisturizing liquid formulation, that is, an antiseptic efficacy test, and conducts an experiment using an agar disc diffusion method. In the experimental examples, the tests were carried out using the formulations (b), (d), and (e) shown in Fig. 7 as samples. The steps include: taking Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa cultured in Tryptone soy agar (TSA) medium (including: Tryptone 15g/l, Soytone or Thiopeptone or Thiotone 5g/l, Sodium chloride (NaCl 5g / l, Agar) 12 hours of bacteria; the three bacteria liquid individually measured the absorbance of OD 595 , the OD value is controlled in the range of 0.7 ~ 0.8; take 200μl of bacterial solution, applied to trypsin Tryptic Soybean Broth (TSB) dry medium (containing: tryptone Tyrptone 17g / l, soybean extract Soybean Extract 3g / l, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate K 2 HPO 4 2.5g / l, sodium chloride NaCl 5g / l, glucose Dextrose 2.5g / l), each application of three plates, a total of nine plates; take antibacterial ring patch, dilute different concentrations of the test solution, respectively, attached to the dry medium; placed in a 37 ° C incubator Incubate for 12 hours; and observe the size of the inhibition loop to determine its antibacterial efficacy.
本發明之乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之製作。靜電紡絲實驗參數:靜電紡絲液之流速、電場(電壓及工作距離)。在電場抽絲作用下將溶液經由噴射裝置10的噴嘴11而噴射於金屬收集板20,收集板20表面貼附一張一般的影印紙,靜電會將纖維30吸附到紙張的表面形成交錯的網狀結構。此方法必須控制抽絲液的濃度、射出溶液的流量、噴嘴11到收集板20的距離(d)及施加電壓(V),請配合參看圖1所示,因為這些因素會影響抽絲纖維30的平均直徑。再以電子顯微鏡觀察纖維之直徑、孔隙大小,找出 最適當靜電紡實驗參數,製作成品。 The production of the dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film of the present invention. Electrospinning experimental parameters: flow rate of electrospinning solution, electric field (voltage and working distance). The solution is sprayed on the metal collecting plate 20 through the nozzle 11 of the spraying device 10 under the action of electric field spinning, and a general photocopying paper is attached to the surface of the collecting plate 20. The static electricity will adsorb the fibers 30 to the surface of the paper to form a staggered net. Structure. This method must control the concentration of the drawing solution, the flow rate of the injection solution, the distance (d) of the nozzle 11 to the collecting plate 20, and the applied voltage (V), as shown in Fig. 1, because these factors affect the spinning fiber 30. The average diameter. Then observe the diameter and pore size of the fiber with an electron microscope. The most suitable electrospinning experimental parameters, the finished product.
本發明進行了乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之有效性評估,亦即進行了皮膚短效性保濕能力測試。測試的方法大致與先前的美容保濕液配方之有效性評估-皮膚短效性保濕能力測試相同,唯有步驟3改為測量後實驗組取15x15mm大小之乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜,貼附在手腕內側固定位置;對照組則靜置。 The present invention carries out an evaluation of the effectiveness of a dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film, that is, a skin short-acting moisturizing ability test. The test method is roughly the same as the previous evaluation of the effectiveness of the beauty moisturizing liquid formula-skin short-acting moisturizing ability test. Only after the step 3 is changed, the experimental group takes a 15x15mm dry type beauty moisturizing fiber film and attaches it to the inner side of the wrist. Fixed position; control group was allowed to stand.
本發明進行了乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之美白功效體外試驗,亦即進行了酪胺酸酶抑制效能測試。測試的方法大致與先前的美容保濕液配方之美白功效體外試驗,即酪胺酸酶抑制效能測試相同,唯有步驟2改為將0.04g之乾式美容保濕薄膜回溶至40μl緩衝溶液中。 The invention carries out an in vitro test for the whitening effect of the dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film, that is, the tyrosinase inhibition performance test. The test method was roughly the same as the in vitro test of the whitening effect of the previous cosmetic moisturizing liquid formula, that is, the tyrosinase inhibition efficacy test, and only step 2 was changed to dissolve the 0.04 g dry beauty moisturizing film into 40 μl of the buffer solution.
本發明進行了乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之安全性評估,亦即進行了防腐效能試驗(貼片試驗)。試驗的方法大致與先前的美容保濕液配方之安全性評估,即防腐效能試驗(貼片試驗)相同,唯有步驟3與步驟4改為直接將15x15mm大小之乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜分別貼於培養基上。 The present invention performs a safety evaluation of a dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film, that is, an anticorrosive efficacy test (patch test). The test method is roughly the same as the safety evaluation of the previous cosmetic moisturizing liquid formula, that is, the anti-corrosion efficacy test (patch test), and only the steps 3 and 4 are directly applied to the 15×15 mm dry beauty moisturizing fiber film respectively. on.
本發明之乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之外包裝。將乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜以鋁箔包覆,再以塑膠PE膜密封,並設計夾鏈袋封口,內部可容納多片乾式保養品。 The dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film of the present invention is packaged in an outer layer. The dry beauty moisturizing fiber film is coated with aluminum foil, sealed with a plastic PE film, and designed with a zipper bag seal, which can accommodate multiple dry skin care products.
本發明之實驗結果,顯示了美容保濕液配方之有效性評估-皮膚短效性保濕能力測試結果:皮膚短效性保濕能力之測定,以圖7之配方(a)和(b)進行皮膚短效性保濕能力之實驗測試,由圖2顯示,10-20分鐘內皮膚含水量達最大值,但20分鐘後開始逐漸下降,最後,配方(a)之皮 膚水分率為32.7%,配方(b)之皮膚水分率為34.3%,配方(b)有較佳之保濕效果。 The experimental results of the present invention show the effectiveness evaluation of the cosmetic moisturizing liquid formula - the skin short-acting moisturizing ability test result: the skin short-acting moisturizing ability is measured, and the skin is short in the formula (a) and (b) of Fig. 7. The experimental test of effective moisturizing ability, as shown in Figure 2, shows that the skin moisture content reaches a maximum within 10-20 minutes, but gradually decreases after 20 minutes. Finally, the skin of formula (a) The skin moisture rate is 32.7%, and the skin moisture rate of the formula (b) is 34.3%. The formula (b) has a better moisturizing effect.
本發明之實驗結果,顯示了美容保濕液配方之美白功效體外試驗-酪胺酸酶抑制效能測試:熊果素對於酪胺酸酶的抑制效果,實驗以配方(b)和(C)進行測試,其結果如圖3所示,配方(b)對酪胺酸酶之抑制率為18.49%,配方(C)對酪胺酸酶之抑制率為13.20%,可知配方(b)之美白效果較佳。 The experimental results of the present invention show the whitening effect of the beauty moisturizing liquid formula in vitro test-tyrosinase inhibition efficacy test: the inhibitory effect of arbutin on tyrosinase, the experiment is tested by formulas (b) and (C), As a result, as shown in Fig. 3, the inhibition rate of the formula (b) to tyrosinase was 18.49%, and the inhibition rate of the formula (C) to tyrosinase was 13.20%, and it was found that the whitening effect of the formula (b) was better.
本發明之實驗結果,顯示了美容保濕液配方之安全性評估-防腐效能試驗(以瓊脂紙錠擴散法(agar disc diffusion method)進行實驗:圖8為以圖7之(b)、(d)和(e)配方進行美容保濕液防腐抗菌效能評估,其中圖(A),(B),(C)分別為對金黃色葡萄球菌、大腸桿菌之測試、綠膿桿菌之測試結果。圖8為其各別之抑菌環大小,我們發現美容保濕液配方對於金黃色葡萄球菌之抑制效果較佳,其抑菌環大於17.78mm,而對於綠膿桿菌之抑制效果則較差,抑菌環約在10.00mm左右,相較之下配方(b)的抑菌環較大,抗菌效果較佳,而配方(e)的抑菌環最小,抗菌效果也最差。 The experimental results of the present invention show the safety evaluation of the cosmetic moisturizing liquid formulation - antiseptic efficacy test (tested by agar disc diffusion method: Fig. 8 is shown in Fig. 7 (b), (d) And (e) formula for the evaluation of the anti-corrosion and antibacterial efficacy of the cosmetic moisturizing liquid, wherein the figures (A), (B), and (C) are the test results of the test for Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, respectively. The size of each of the antibacterial rings, we found that the beauty moisturizing liquid formula has a better inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus, the inhibition ring is greater than 17.78mm, and the inhibition effect on Pseudomonas aeruginosa is poor, the inhibition ring is about Compared with 10.00mm, the antibacterial ring of formula (b) is larger and the antibacterial effect is better, while the antibacterial ring of formula (e) is the smallest and the antibacterial effect is the worst.
本發明應用於乾式纖維薄膜製作。由以上實驗結果可得出,圖7之配方(b)在保濕、美白、抗菌試驗中,皆有較佳的效果,因此選用配方(b)進行靜電紡絲技術製作纖維膜。圖9(a)和圖9(b)為以紡絲液流速20μl/min,電場為15KV/8cm,噴絲時間60min,所製成之薄膜之SEM照片,具有明顯纖維的結構,且纖維粗細較一致。其中圖9(b)為圖9(a)之局部放大,可清楚看出纖維直徑約在600nm以下。附件四為其成品。而圖9(c)為 以紡絲液流速為20μl/min,紡絲電場15KV/10cm,噴絲時間60min,所製作之薄膜SEM照片,纖維較不連續且粗細不均。 The invention is applied to the production of dry fiber films. From the above experimental results, it can be concluded that the formula (b) of Fig. 7 has a better effect in the moisturizing, whitening, and antibacterial tests, and therefore the formula (b) is used for the electrospinning technique to produce a fiber membrane. Fig. 9(a) and Fig. 9(b) are SEM photographs of the film prepared by the spinning solution flow rate of 20 μl/min, electric field of 15 kV/8 cm, and spinning time of 60 min, with obvious fiber structure and fiber thickness. More consistent. 9(b) is a partial enlargement of FIG. 9(a), and it can be clearly seen that the fiber diameter is about 600 nm or less. Annex IV is its finished product. And Figure 9(c) is The spinning solution has a flow rate of 20 μl/min, a spinning electric field of 15 kV/10 cm, and a spinning time of 60 min. The SEM photograph of the film produced is relatively discontinuous and uneven in thickness.
乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之有效性評估-皮膚短效性保濕能力測試。圖5為靜電紡絲乾式成品之皮膚短效性保濕能力有效性評估。其中,空白組為洗手後不塗抹任何溶液進行測試,實驗組為洗手後覆蓋成品進行測試。結果顯示空白組之皮膚水分率由0min時之40.7%下降至90min時之32.7%,下降幅度為19.6%;而實驗組(靜電紡絲乾式纖維成品)其皮膚水分率則由0min時之41.0%下降至90min時之35.7%,其下降幅度約為14.8%。靜電紡絲乾式成品之保濕效果明顯較佳。 Evaluation of the effectiveness of dry beauty moisturizing fiber film - skin short-acting moisturizing ability test. Figure 5 is a review of the effectiveness of the skin short-acting moisturizing ability of the electrospun dry product. Among them, the blank group was tested without washing any solution after washing the hands, and the experimental group was tested after covering the finished product after washing the hands. The results showed that the skin moisture rate of the blank group decreased from 40.7% at 0 min to 32.7% at 90 min, a decrease of 19.6%. The skin moisture rate of the experimental group (electrospun dry fiber finished product) was 41.0% at 0 min. It fell to 35.7% at 90min, which was about 14.8%. The moisturizing effect of the electrospun dry finished product is obviously better.
乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之美白功效體外試驗-酪胺酸酶抑制效能測試。為研究乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜對於酪胺酸酶的抑制效果,進行試驗前,先將乾式成品120mg溶於120μl緩衝溶液中做為樣品溶液,再開始試驗,方法如同實驗步驟(三)所示。實驗結果如圖6,其中乾式成品對酪胺酸酶之抑制率為24.13%,與先前圖5中針對圖7之(b)配方溶液對酪胺酸酶之抑制率為18.49%相較,乾式成品對酪胺酸酶抑制之效果比液態配方為佳。 Whitening efficacy of dry beauty moisturizing fiber film in vitro test - tyrosinase inhibition efficacy test. In order to study the inhibitory effect of the dry cosmetic moisturizing fiber film on tyrosinase, 120 mg of the dry finished product was dissolved in a buffer solution of 120 μl as a sample solution before the test, and the test was started as shown in the experimental step (III). The experimental results are shown in Fig. 6. The inhibition rate of the dry product to tyrosinase is 24.13%, which is compared with the inhibition rate of tyrosinase of 18.49% for the formulation solution of Fig. 7 (b). The effect of the finished product on tyrosinase inhibition is better than the liquid formulation.
乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之安全性評估-防腐效能試驗(貼片試驗)。為了解靜電紡絲乾式成品之防腐效能,若將乾式成品貼於培養基上會立即溶解變成液態,拿取或放置在桌面時會因晃動而使溶液流動,因此無法準確測量其抑菌面積大小。圖11(A)(B)(C)為靜電紡絲乾式纖維成品分別以金黃色葡萄球菌、大腸桿菌、綠膿桿菌進行防腐抑菌試驗之結果。樣品(1)為圖7之配方(b)但去除葡萄柚籽抗菌劑之靜電紡絲乾式成品,樣品 (2)為配方(b)經靜電紡絲技術製造之電紡絲乾式成品,樣品(3)為配方(b)以澆注方式製作之薄膜。由圖11可看出,去除抗菌劑(葡萄柚籽)添加之靜電紡絲薄膜並無抑菌效果,而含有葡萄柚籽抗菌劑之配方所製成的兩種薄膜皆具有抑菌功能。 Safety evaluation of dry beauty moisturizing fiber film - anti-corrosion efficacy test (patch test). In order to understand the antiseptic effect of the electrospinning dry product, if the dry product is applied to the medium, it will immediately dissolve into a liquid state, and when it is taken or placed on the table top, the solution will flow due to shaking, so that the bacteriostatic area cannot be accurately measured. Fig. 11 (A) (B) (C) shows the results of an antiseptic and bacteriostatic test of S. aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, respectively, of the electrospun dry fiber product. Sample (1) is the formulation of Figure 7 (b) but the electrospinning dry product of the grapefruit seed antibacterial agent is removed, sample (2) For the formulation (b) of the electrospun dry product manufactured by the electrospinning technique, the sample (3) is the film of the formulation (b) casted. As can be seen from Fig. 11, the electrospinning film added with the antibacterial agent (grape seed) has no bacteriostatic effect, and the two films made of the grapefruit seed antibacterial agent have antibacterial function.
乾式美容保濕纖維薄膜之外包裝。將靜電紡絲收集板上的乾式奈米纖維薄膜取下後,放置於裁剪好的鋁箔紙上如圖12(A),包覆後將其裝進透明PE夾鏈袋中,在以封口機密封,成最後成品如圖12(B)。 Dry beauty moisturizing fiber film is packaged outside. After removing the dry nanofiber film on the electrospinning collecting plate, place it on the cut aluminum foil paper as shown in Fig. 12(A), wrap it in a transparent PE zipper bag, and seal it in a sealing machine. The final product is shown in Figure 12(B).
結論:本發明利用靜電紡絲技術,結合熊果素(Arbutin)、透明質酸(Hyaluronic Acid)、苦杏仁酸(Mandelic Acid)保養成份配方,將其製成乾式奈米化纖維薄膜,使用時會因皮膚表面溫度及環境濕度將此薄膜溶解而使皮膚吸收之特色。本發明將美容保濕液配方以靜電紡絲技術製成薄膜,紡絲液流速20μl/min,紡絲電場15KV/8cm,噴絲時間60min,可製造出奈米級纖維。從皮膚短效性保濕能力測定之結果可得知,使用以靜電紡絲技術製成乾式成品90分鐘後仍可維持35.7%之皮膚水分率且其酪胺酸酶抑制率為24.1%。利用靜電紡絲技術製成之美白保濕保養品能除能提升保濕與美白效果外,亦對金黃色葡萄球菌有極佳之抑制效果,且具有輕薄易攜帶,使用時能立即溶解之優點。綜合以上之功能性評估,美白保濕保養品未來在化妝品市場上有極佳之應用潛力。 Conclusion: The present invention utilizes electrospinning technology, combined with Arbutin, Hyaluronic Acid, and Mandelic Acid to prepare a dry nanofiber film, which is used when used. Skin surface temperature and ambient humidity dissolve the film to make it absorb the skin. The invention prepares the beauty moisturizing liquid solution by electrospinning technology, the spinning liquid flow rate is 20 μl/min, the spinning electric field is 15 kV/8 cm, and the spinning time is 60 min, and the nano-fiber can be manufactured. From the results of the measurement of the short-acting moisturizing ability of the skin, it was found that the skin moisture content of 35.7% was maintained after the dry preparation was made by the electrospinning technique for 90 minutes and the tyrosinase inhibition rate was 24.1%. The whitening and moisturizing skin care product made by electrospinning technology can not only enhance the moisturizing and whitening effect, but also has excellent suppression effect on Staphylococcus aureus, and has the advantages of being light and easy to carry, and can be dissolved immediately when used. Based on the above functional evaluation, whitening and moisturizing skin care products have excellent application potential in the cosmetics market in the future.
以上所述,僅為本發明之可行實施例,並非用以限定本發明之專利範圍,凡舉依據下列請求項所述之內容、特徵以及其精神而為之其他變化的等效實施,皆應包含於本發明之專利範圍內。本發明所具體界定於請求項之結構特徵,未見於同類物品,且具實用性、進步性及產業利用 性,已符合發明專利要件,爰依法具文提出申請,謹請 鈞局依法核予專利,以維護本申請人合法之權益。 The above is only a possible embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the patents of the present invention, and the equivalent implementations of other changes according to the contents, features and spirits of the following claims should be It is included in the patent of the present invention. The invention is specifically defined in the structural features of the request item, is not found in the same kind of articles, and has practicality, advancement and industrial utilization. Sex, has met the requirements of the invention patent, and filed an application in accordance with the law. I would like to ask the bureau to approve the patent in accordance with the law to protect the legitimate rights and interests of the applicant.
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