TW201510314A - Operating method of sewing machine for sewing material parts - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an operating method of a sewing machine for sewing material parts along seams. At least one sewing parameter is specified by utilization of the sewing machine, the seams are divided into a plurality of parameter seam sections. In addition, a sewing parameter value is assigned to each of the parameter seam sections. The material parts are sewed from a seam starting point along a sequence of operating seam sections along the seams. The sequence of the operating seam sections provides a seam dividing manner independent of the seam dividing manner dividing the parameter seam sections. When converting between two subsequent operating seam sections, the sewing parameter values are adjusted automatically. If the convention is in sewing seam sections having sewing parameter values different from the preset parameter values, the sewing parameter values are adjusted automatically. Accordingly, the operating method for simplifying sewing the material sections is provided.

Description

Method for operating a sewing machine for suturing a seam portion Field of invention

The present invention relates to a method of operating a sewing machine for suturing a seam portion. Furthermore, the invention relates to a sewing machine for carrying out such a method.

Background of the invention

A corresponding sewing machine is known from EP 1 897 984 A2. A method for operating a sewing machine for joining two seam parts is known from DE 199 20 350 C1. A method for generating sewing control data is known from DE 10 2007 003 721 A1.

Summary of invention

It is an object of the invention to improve the operation of such a sewing machine by simplifying the stitching of the seam portion.

According to the invention, the object is achieved by an operating method having the features given in claim 1.

According to the invention, it is recognized that the automatic adjustment of the sewing parameter value to a determined, assigned sewing parameter value based on the assignment of the changing position along the seam is achieved independently of the division of the seam into the running seam section. Sewing parameters based on position optimization. The transition between successive running seam segments can be It is automatically performed based on the sewing program; however, alternatively, it can also be performed manually. That is, the entire length of the seam can be arbitrarily divided into the running seam section, wherein the seam section is always ensured by the specified parameters, and when the edge condition of the two seam parts is changed, the sewing parameter value is changed. . This significantly simplifies the sewing process, especially when stitching complex seam portions. The sewing parameter can be the radius of the arc. The seam portion can have a curved edge contour section. By means of the operating method according to the invention, the position-optimized arc radius for the feed feed curve can be correspondingly ensured independently of the division of the seam into the running seam section. An example of this is the stitching of the sleeves of a men's outerwear or a women's outer garment. The method of operation can be carried out by means of a sewing machine with a determinable arc radius which can be modified accordingly. A sewing machine with a determinable arc radius is known from EP 1 897 984 A2. The sewing parameter that can be adjusted in relation to the corresponding running seam parameter can be the pleating value, i.e. the ratio of the material length of the two seam portions along the running seam section to be stitched. The size of the garment can be the size of the garment. In a symmetrical garment piece, the joint seam can be divided into a plurality of parameter seam segments and the stitch parameter values are assigned independently for both sides. This is especially advantageous for sleeve stitching. In order to consider the actual situation - the running seam section has a certain length, it is preferred to divide the connecting seam into the parameter seam section, that is, the boundary or transformation between the two parameter seam sections as viewed along the sewing direction for the seam. The position is in the desired seam area - where it is desired that the assigned sewing parameters work - before. In this way, it is considered that the change between the successive running seam sections is carried out after a certain seam distance after the boundary area between the two parameter seam sections, and then the sewing parameters are adjusted. Can be based on experience The values and in particular can be divided into parameter seam segments by considering the results of the previous sewing control data generation in different reference garment sizes. The corresponding situation applies to the assignment of sewing parameter values. The assignment of sewing parameter values can be made during the division of the seam into the parameter seam section. It is possible to design the possibility that the user corrects or modifies the assigned sewing parameter value, for example by inputting a correction value or by inputting another sewing parameter value. The input can be carried out, for example, by means of an input device, for example an operating panel or a keyboard, which is connected to the control device of the sewing machine.

For the lap condition according to claim 2, the transformation of the sewing parameter values can be performed while changing between the two running seam sections. This transformation is mandatory when the parameter seam section just overlaps the two running seam sections, so that the sewing parameters are particularly carefully matched to the seaming process.

The division of the seam into the parameter seam section according to claim 3 ensures a particularly good match between the sewing process and the individual garment dimensions.

According to the claim 4, this situation applies correspondingly to the division of the joint seam into the parameter seam section.

The advantages of the method of operation according to claim 5 have been discussed above. The parameter seam section is the radius seam section.

The sequence of arc radius values according to claims 6 to 8 has proven to be particularly suitable for practical requirements. This is especially true for "sleeves stitching" applications. As an alternative to the sequence according to claim 8, there may also be an arc radius value between the two parameter seam segments of the segment of the radius line having the arc radius value "large feed curve". The radius of the small feed arc" section. Especially in the application of "sleeve stitching" These variants of the corresponding feed curve are closely matched to the sleeve shape.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine for carrying out the method according to the invention. This other object is achieved according to the invention by a sewing machine having the features of claim 9.

The advantages of the sewing machine correspond to the advantages described above with reference to the operating method according to the invention. The individual sewing positions can be carried out by means of the detection module, for example by counting the sewing stitches of a predetermined stitch length or alternatively by optically detecting the actual seam position.

A clear assignment of the sewing material is achieved according to the memory module of claim 10. This can be changed, for example, by replacing a unique replaceable storage medium.

1‧‧‧ sewing machine

2‧‧‧ upper arm

3‧‧‧ column

4‧‧‧Substrate

5‧‧‧ column

6‧‧‧Drive motor

7‧‧‧ Needle bar

9‧‧‧ pinhole plate

10, 11‧‧‧Transfer components

12‧‧‧Top part; sewing part

13‧‧‧Sleeve part; sewing part

14, 15‧‧‧ edge contour section

16‧‧‧ right armhole

17, 17'‧‧‧ seam starting point

17a, 17b‧‧‧ seam boundary points; end points of seams; starting point of seams; point

18‧‧‧Sewing direction

19, 20, 21, 22, 23‧‧‧ parameter seam section

24‧‧‧Control equipment

25‧‧‧ memory module

26‧‧‧Test module

27‧‧‧ Optical Sensor

28‧‧‧ memory unit

29‧‧‧Adjustment module

30‧‧‧Computation Module

32‧‧‧ stitching

33‧‧‧ sewing reference point

34‧‧‧ display screen

35‧‧‧The front of the outer garment

36‧‧‧Shoulder seam

37‧‧‧The back of the coat

38‧‧‧ outer garment side section

P1, P2, P3‧‧‧ distribution seam position

A1, a2, b1, b2, c1, c2, d1, d2‧‧‧ running seam section

E1, f1, g1, h1, i1‧‧‧ running seam section

La1, la2, lb1, lb2, lc1, lc2, ld1, ld2‧‧‧ parameter seam section; length

K1, K2‧‧‧ pleating values

Embodiments of the invention are explained in detail below with reference to the drawings. 1 is a perspective view of a sewing machine for sewing a portion of a seam having a curved edge contour section along a seam, wherein internal details of the housing element are omitted for clarity; FIG. 2 schematically shows The upper portion and the sleeve portion to be sewn are, for example, two sewn portions to be sewn to each other; and FIG. 3 shows the armhole portion of the upper sewn portion for use along the upper portion and the associated sleeve portion The connecting seam shows the running seam section and the radius seam section; FIG. 4 shows the armhole edge section of the garment seam section in a similar view to FIG. 3, wherein the corresponding parameter seam sections are correspondingly Change the grading value of the section; Figure 5 is a schematic illustration similar to Figure 3 showing the sleeve hole of the upper garment part for the purpose of the section grading value along the connection line of the upper body part and the associated sleeve part. a parameterized seam section, shown at the joint seam for the right sleeve, wherein the sewing starting point coincides with the sewing reference point for the parameter seam section; FIG. 6 is shown in a similar illustration to FIG. 5 for The case of the seam of the left sleeve, wherein the sewing start point coincides with the sewing reference point for the parameter seam section; FIGS. 7 and 8 show the top part according to FIG. 6, which shows the stitching for the left sleeve. When the seam is connected, the sewing start point is moved around the sleeve hole in the circumferential direction with reference to the sewing reference point by 50% of the entire length of the seam; FIG. 9 is again shown in a simplified manner to the right side in a similar manner to FIG. The sleeve is taken as an example of the sewing parameter value for the optimized sleeve seam; FIGS. 10 to 12 show an example of dividing the sleeve seam into the running seam section according to FIG. 9, in which the sewing parameters associated therewith are also shown; Figure 13 shows in a similar diagram to Figure 3 The right sleeve the sleeve is divided into alternative stitch seam section parameter; and with the case of FIG. 14 similar to Figure 13 shows the sleeve on the line for the left sleeve seam stitch is divided into the parameter section.

Detailed description of the preferred embodiment

The sewing machine 1 has an upper arm 2, a vertical upright 3, and a lower body, commonly referred to as a substrate 4. The substrate 4 has a column 5 standing upward, so the sewing machine 1 is also called a column Sewing machine. Alternatively, the sewing machine 1 can also be implemented as a flat sewing machine/platform sewing machine. A spindle, not shown in detail, is rotatably supported in the arm 2. The main shaft, and thus the main sewing part of the sewing machine 1, are driven by a drive motor 6 mounted in the substrate 4 and a belt drive mechanism not shown in detail in the drawings. The needle bar can be driven up and down vertically by a spindle and a crank drive, which is vertically supported in the arm 2 and not shown in the drawing, with a needle at its lower end. The approximate position of the needle bar is indicated by 7 in the dotted line in FIG. A rotary hook is rotatably supported in the column 5 below the needle bar. In order to suture the sewing material portion (see the sewing material portion in Figs. 2 and 3), the needle is guided by the needle hole plate 9 which is formed on the upper side of the column 5 and protrudes laterally across the column 5 in the sewing direction, the needle is in the hook Pass through the pinhole plate in the area.

The lower moving material assembly 10 and the upper moving material assembly 11 are for moving the sewing material portions to be sewn to each other forward in the sewing direction of the sewing machine 1. The transfer assembly is described in detail in EP 1 897 984 A2. By means of the two shifting assemblies 10, 11, the sewing machine 1 can stitch a portion of the seam having a curved edge contour section along the connecting line, wherein the arc radius of the feed arc, ie the sewing parameters, can be specified by the sewing material, which It is also described in EP 1 897 984 A2.

The upper portion 12 and the sleeve portion 13 of Fig. 2 are exemplified before the two sewn portions are sewn. This illustration is extremely strongly simplified and corresponds to FIG. 3 of DE 199 20 350 C1.

The edge profiles 14, 15 of the two seam portions 12, 13 have edge contour sections that are curved along the seam to be stitched. In contrast to this, it can be inferred from the schematic illustration of FIG. 2 that the relevant edge contour segments a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1 of the edge contours 14, 15 are used for sewing along the seam. /d2,... They do not necessarily have the same arc radius, instead they usually have different arc radii. These edge contour sections define a connecting seam section which is also referred to as "parameter seam section".

When the sewing material portions 12, 13 are sewn, the sequence of the parameter seam segments corresponding to the edge contour segments a1/a2, ... is sequentially completed. These parameter seam segments have lengths la1/a2, lb1/b2, lc1/c2, ld1/d2, . The parameter seam sections la1 and la2, lb1 and lb2, ... of the seam portions 12, 13 which are related to each other at the time of sewing generally do not have the same length. For example, the usual parameter seam sections a2, b2, ... of the sleeve portion 13 are longer than the relevant parameter seam sections a1, b1, ... of the upper section 12.

The lengths la1, lb1, lc1, ld1, ... of the parameter seam sections of the upper portion 12 are generally different from each other. The same applies to the lengths la2, lb2, ... of the parameter seam section of the sleeve portion 13.

Figure 3 shows in more detail the case of the parameter seam section of the upper part 12. The upper portion 12 in the region of the right armhole 16 is shown. The connecting seams for the sleeve portions, not shown, are sewn along the respective running seam sections, wherein the running seam sections b1, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1 are emphasized in FIG. The length of these running seam sections varies based on the individual sewing technique of the operator. The running seam section may coincide with the previously described parameter seam section already described in connection with Figure 2; however this is not mandatory. The running seam section is in principle independent of the parameter seam section.

The seam of the upper portion 12 having the sleeve portion 13 not shown starts at the sewing start point 17. The connecting seam is then stitched clockwise along the sewing direction 18 in Fig. 3 from then on. In addition to being divided into different running seam sections In addition to a1, b1, ..., the joint seam is also divided into a sequence of parameter seam segments in the form of a radius seam section. An arc radius value for the radius of the arc of the feed arc which can be specified by means of the sewing machine 1 is assigned to the radius seam sections. Only the radial seam section is shown in Figure 3 where the arc radius value is assigned a feed radius with a finite curvature. Radial seam sections in which the feed arc is not specified are not shown, in which the straight-slit seam sections are sewn by means of the sewing machine 1 without the influence of an operator.

In the process of joining the seams, there is a sequence of radius seam segments 19, 20, 21 and 22 having arc radius values for specifying the feed arc. Here, the arc radius values in the radius seam sections 19 and 22 indicate a larger radius, that is, a feed arc having a small curvature. The arc radius values of the radius seam sections 20, 21 between the radius seam sections 19 and 22 indicate that they have a smaller arc radius of the feed arc, i.e., a stronger or more curved feed arc.

The sequence of arc radius values along the connecting seam is such that the arc radius value in the first region of the process of joining the seams, ie up to the radius seam section 20, first becomes "smaller (more curved) ) Feed arc" value. Starting from the radius seam section 21, there is a sequence of radius seam segments in which the arc radius value becomes a "larger (not too strong) feed arc" value in the last region of the process of joining the seams. .

There is a seam section 23 having an arc radius value "small feed arc" between the two radius seam sections 20, 21 having a "small feed arc", i.e., an arc radius value of greater curvature.

The seam section of the joint seam between the seam start point 17 and the radius seam section 19 overlaps the running seam sections a1 and b1. The radius seam section 19 overlaps the running seam sections b1 and c1. The radius seam section 20 overlaps the running seam sections c1, d1 and e1. The radius seam section between the two radius seam sections 20 and 21, i.e., the seam section 23, overlaps the running seam sections e1 and f1. The radius seam section 21 overlaps the running seam sections f1, g1 and h1. The radius seam section 22 overlaps the running seam sections h1 and i1. The running seam section between the radius seam section 22 and the remainder of the connecting seam of the seam starting point 17 and the running seam section i1 and the running seam section i1 and the seam starting point 17 The lap joint, the closed joint seam terminates at the beginning of the seam.

The sewing machine 1 has a control device 24 shown in simplified form in FIG. The control device 24 has a memory module 25 for the radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22 and associated arc radius values. The control device 24 also has a detection module 26 for detecting the corresponding current sewing position within the seam. Such detection can be performed, for example, by counting the stitches along the connecting seams when the stitch length is known. Alternatively, optical detection of the actual seam position can also be performed, for example, by the optical sensor 27 shown in FIG.

Alternatively, another memory unit 28 may be integrated in the memory module 25 for storing the lengths (lx1, lx2) of the running seam sections a1, b1, ... and a2, b2, . The pleating value is stored in the corresponding memory unit, and the pleating value is obtained from the relationship of the lengths of the running seam sections a1/a2, b1/b2, ... to be sewn to each other. In addition to the specified feed curve, the Raff value or the pleating value is specified by means of the sewing machine 1, as also described in EP 1 897 984 A2. That's the case.

In the operation of the sewing machine 1, the following processing is carried out: first, the connecting seam is divided into radius seam sections, that is, for example, the radius seam sections 19, 20, 23, 21, 22. The arc radius value is then assigned to the corresponding radius seam segment. In the embodiment according to Fig. 3, the radius line segments 19 and 22 are assigned a "large arc radius, i.e. small curvature" arc radius value, and the radius seam segments 20 and 21 are assigned "with a smaller radius value, ie The radius of the arc with a larger curvature." The "no feed arc" arc radius value is assigned in the other radius seam section of the feed line seam. The corresponding data is stored in the memory 25, 28 of the control device 24.

The stitching of the sewn portions 12, 13 is then carried out from the seam starting point 17 along the running seam sections a1/a2, b1/b2, .... When changing between successive running seam sections, such as a1/a2 and b1/b2, the sewing operating parameters, such as the already mentioned pleating values, are adjusted. This adjustment takes place by means of an adjustment module 29 of the control device 24.

At the beginning of the stitching, i.e. from the seam starting point 17, the seam portions 12, 13 having the specified starting arc radius value, here having the "no feed arc" arc radius value, are stitched. When subsequently changing between two successive running seam sections, for example between the running seam sections a1/a2 and b1/b2, as long as the transformation is carried out in a radius seam section, It assigns the following arc radius value: the arc radius value deviates from the currently set arc radius value, and the arc radius value automatically changes to the new arc radius value of the radius line segment. Since the transformation between the seam sections a1/a2 and b1/b2 is still carried out along the joint seam before the start of the first radius seam section 19, no change between the arc radius values occurs here.

When the running seam section b1/b2 and c1/c2 are changed, the arc radius value automatically changes from the arc radius value "no feed arc" toward the arc radius value "large feed arc". This adjustment is automatically performed because a transition between the running seam sections b1/b2 and c1/c2 occurs within the radius seam section 19. Correspondingly, when a transition occurs between the running seam sections c1/c2 and d1/d2, the arc radius value becomes the value "no feed arc" because the transition takes place within the radius seam section 20. When a transition occurs between the running seam sections d1/d2 and e1/e2, the transformation of the arc radius value is not performed because the transition is also performed within the radius seam section 20.

When a transition occurs between the running seam sections e1/e2 and f1/f2, the arc radius value again becomes the value "no feed arc" because the transition takes place in the line seam section 23. In an alternative seaming procedure, the running seam section e1/e2 is long enough to completely cover the seam section 23 such that the end of the alternate running seam section e1/e2 is also present in the radius seam section 21 Therefore, the arc radius value is not changed in this case in this seam program.

In the illustrated embodiment, in the transition of running the seam sections f1/f2 and g1/g2, the arc radius value is transformed from the value "no feed arc" toward the value "small feed arc".

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 3, the next automatic adjustment of the arc radius value is performed between the running seam sections h1/h2 and i1/i2, i.e., up to the arc radius value "large feed arc".

When a transition occurs between the running seam section i1 and the last running seam section up to the seam start point 17, the arc radius value is again transformed from the value "large feed curve" toward the value "no feed arc".

The arc radius value is thus matched to the edge contour of the portion of the seam which is situated above in the sewing, that is to say the sleeve portion 13 , ie the two seam portions 12 , 13 are taken into account by means of a correspondingly set feed curve. The difference between the edge contours in the running seam segments x1/x2 corresponding to the current stitch to be stitched.

The connecting seam can be divided into radius seam segments based on the specified, stitched garment size and/or based on the position of the seam starting point 17.

Further, the sewing machine 1 also has a calculation module 30 for calculating sewing control data. The sewing control data can be assigned to a seam section previously generated by dividing the seam, which will be described later.

The sewing machine 1 can be based on the generated and calculated sewing control data for completing the sewing program associated with the corresponding garment size, and stitching a plurality of successive seam segments a1, b1 in the course of the sewing program, A seam of ..., such as a seam that has been previously described. Sewing parameters, such as segment grading values, can vary between individual seam sections. The adjustment of the sewing parameters can be automatically performed when a transition between successive seam sections a1, b1, ... occurs.

An example of a set of such sewing control materials is given in Table 1 below. It is assumed below that the joint seam is divided into five parameter seam sections a1/a2 to e1/e2. Of course, it can also be divided into other numbers of parameter seam sections, for example, divided into 5 to 11 seam sections. Here, Table 1 shows the segment grading value or length share and the total grading value for the different parameter seam sections a1/a2, b1/b2, ... e1/e2. The first row of Table 1a illustrates the ratio of the segment grading value of each parameter seam segment to the length of the running seam segment. Second of Table 1a The line illustrates the segment grading value and the total length of the joint seam - that is, the ratio of the length of all parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 and --. For the segment grading values shown in the last row of Table 1a, the ratios of the segment grading values of the respective parameter seam segments to their respective lengths are identical to each other. For the parameter seam section a1/a2, it is: 0.38% / 3.4% = 50 mm / 450 mm, wherein the length of the section for the garment size G4 is exemplarily given here. The sum of the rating values for all sections indicates the total rating value.

Typically, the segment grading values associated with the length of each parameter seam segment are different from the overall grading values associated with the total length of the joint seam.

Table 1b shows the garment size Gx in the first column and the length of the corresponding parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 in the subsequent columns. Table 1b shows the total length of the joint seams in the penultimate column, which in turn is related to the size of the garment. The last column to the right of Table 1b shows the increase in the size of the bus slot length between successive garment sizes Gx, ie the total grading value.

The sewing control data according to Tables 1a and 1b is generated as follows: First, a base size is selected, such as clothing size G4. In principle, any garment size can also be selected as the base size. The length of each of the parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 is then generated for the garment size G4, i.e., length values of 50 mm, 120 mm, 20 mm, 100 mm, 160 mm, and 450 mm in this example.

In addition, the total rating value is specified, which in this example is 3.4%. On this basis, on this basis, the sewing control data and in particular the length of the parameter seam section for the other garment sizes G1 to G3 and G5 to G10 are generated. In the example of Table 1, the individual parameter seam segments a1/a2 are executed based on the total grading value of 3.4%. The calculation of the length of e1/e2, where the length indicates no decimal places. In the example of Table 1, the extension of the length of the slit section of each parameter is the same as the total classification value, that is, 3.4%. That is, all parameters of the seam section length extend the same percentage share.

All other sewing control data are automatically calculated after the basic size data for the base size G4 and the total rating value is specified. The specification of the basic dimensions can be sewed in the demonstration mode or via data entry, for example by manual data entry or by reading the corresponding basic dimensions. When specifying the total rating value, the results of the aforementioned sewing control data generation can be used for different reference clothing sizes. In the sewing control data according to Table 1, according to the length fraction of the parameter seam section occupying the total length of the joint seam, the section grading value of the parameter seam section is equal to the fraction of the total grading value.

It is also possible to assign other sewing parameters, such as pleating values or double width values (Mehrweiten-Wert), to the individual parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2, as described above, or other sewing operating parameters. In the variant of the sewing control data, the arc radius values are also assigned to the parameter seam sections of different garment sizes. The above-described radius seam section is another example of the parameter seam section. The parameter seam section for the arc radius value does not have to be identical in its position and length to the parameter seam section for the section grading value.

Another variant for generating sewing control data is described in accordance with Table 2.

When the sewing control data is generated according to Table 2, the segment grading values are also defined based on the total grading value so as to extend at least a plurality of seam sections a1/a2 to e1/e2 for successive garment sizes Gx, Gx+1. In the example according to Table 2, it is the seam sections b1/b2, d1/d2, and e1/e2 (extended). The other parameters of the seam sections a1/a2 and c1/c2 are not extended for successive garment sizes, ie have a constant length of 50 mm or 20 mm. Correspondingly, the parameter seam sections b1/b2, d1/d2 and e1/e2 are extended by an extension, the extension of the non-essential phase When it accounts for the total length of the joint seam.

The overall grading value of 3.4% is based on the parameter line segment b1/b2 (extension share 1.05%), d1/d2 (extension share 0.85%) and e1/e2 (extension share 1.5%), ie based on the segmentation value of the segment Among the successive garment sizes Gx, Gx+1, ie for example between the garment sizes G4 and G5, the bus seam of a garment size varies according to the overall rating value.

Other distributions of segment grading values different from the distribution according to Tables 1 and 2 are also possible with compliance with this boundary condition. In extreme cases, the overall grading value can be achieved by extending only the unique parameter seam segments. In the other extreme case, the determined segment grading value may also have a negative percentage value which is then overcompensated by the segment grading values of the other parameter seam segments.

The sewing control data can be generated independently of each other in the symmetrical garment piece, that is, in the left side sleeve and the right side sleeve corresponding to FIG.

A sleeve aperture 16 for the right sleeve portion is shown in FIG. For the joint seam of the left sleeve part belonging to it, an independent parameter seam section, grading value, pleating value and arc radius value can be specified.

Another variant for generating sewing control data is described in accordance with Table 3 below.

For garment sizes G1 to G4, the extensions and the lengths of the parameter seam sections a1/a2 to e1/e2 are the same as in Table 2b. Starting from the parameter G4, another grading value is determined, which in this example is another overall grading value, which is 3.8% in the example of Table 3. In subsequent successive garment sizes greater than the selected garment size G4, the bus seam extends the other overall rating based on the selected garment size G4. Here, the section grading value is operated using the section of the running seam section, which has been described above in connection with Table 2a.

In order to determine the other gradation value, in the garment size G9, the exemplary mode sewing is performed. The garment size G9 - where the exemplary mode sewing begins in the example - is greater than the selected garment size G4. In principle, a parameter different from the parameter G9 can also be considered as a further exemplary mode garment size, the exemplary mode The size of the garment is different from the base size. In the exemplary mode sewing, the lengths of the parameter seam sections a1/a2 to e1/e2 for indicating the parameter G9 in the row of Table 3 are given, that is, values of 50 mm, 150 mm, 20 mm, 122 mm, and 200 mm. Correspondingly, the bus slit length L542mm was obtained. For the selected garment size G4 and the additional model mode garment size G9, the bus gap length difference between the bus seam lengths is 450 mm, and evenly distributed in the middle of the garment size G5 to G8 in the automatically calculated frame. The total seam length variation is divided by the ground, wherein the bus seam length is approximately considered to extend the same additional overall rating value, respectively. This gives another total rating of 3.8%. Correspondingly, the respective lengths for the intermediate variables G5 to G8 and also the parameter seam sections a1/a2 to e1/e2 for the variable G10 are derived.

The prescribed method for sewing control data is considered in accordance with Table 3: from a certain garment size, the running seam sections of successive garment sizes are varied more than in the case of smaller garment sizes.

According to another exemplary mode in the garment size G9, the resulting overall grading value and according to the selected garment size G4--from the selected garment size should be applied to another grading value obtained by sewing in another exemplary mode - - The provision of the seam length shown in Table 3 is automatically generated.

Another variation of generating the sewing control data by taking the length of the section of the parameterized seam section again is explained in accordance with Table 4. For garment sizes G1 to G4, the length of the seam section is again the same as the value in Table 2b. The segment grading values for the individual parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 are also consistent with the values discussed above in connection with Table 2b.

Starting from the first selected garment size G4, another rating value is determined in place of the previously used total rating of 3.4%, which in the example of Table 4 is 3.1%. The relevant segment grading value is obtained based on the values for the lengths of the respective parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 determined in the stencil sewing. The other overall grading value is determined by an exemplary mode sewing of the garment size G7, wherein the bus seam length obtained here is 493 mm in another exemplary mode garment size G7 compared to 450 mm of the first selected garment size G4. The length is increased, and another total grading value of 3.1% is obtained by automatic calculation, and the joint seams of the intermediate garment sizes G5 and G6 respectively extend the other total grading value. In the case where the segment grading value of the parameter seam section is additionally considered, the length of the parameter seam section changes the other overall grading value. Show The fan mode garment size G7 is simultaneously expressed as another selected garment size. Starting from the other selected garment size G7, another overall rating value is determined at this time, which is a value of 4.8% in the example of Table 4. This is done by sewing in another exemplary mode in the garment size G10, where a bus seam length of 568 mm is obtained. Here, by means of an automatic calculation, the respective selected grading values for the seam segments of these parameters are specified according to the lengths of the individual parameter seam segments a1/a2 to e1/e2 obtained in sewing in another exemplary mode. . Again, taking into account the determined segment grading values, the seam length is here extended by the other overall grading value.

In the sewing program operation of the sewing machine 1, the control data is first generated in accordance with one of the aforementioned variants. The size of the garment to be stitched is then identified and the two seam portions 12, 13 are then stitched by means of the sewing control data of the identified garment size. To this end, the control device 24 receives the corresponding sewing control data of the identified clothing size from the memory 25 or 28, and controls the sewing machine based on the sewing position detected on the connecting seam by the detecting module 26. As described above, the adjustment module 29 changes between the two successive parameter seam sections a1/a2, b1/b2, ... according to the detected sewing position and according to the assigned sewing position The sewing control data adjusts the sewing operation parameters.

One of the two seam portions stitched by means of the sewing control data described above may also be a neckband. This will be exemplarily explained below with reference to FIG. 4. Here, the garment seam portion is shown as the seam portion 12, and the neckline belt is shown as the seam portion 13. The connecting seam 32 between the two seam portions 12, 13 is arranged between two seam boundary points 17a, 17b, which respectively represent the seam starting point according to the sewing direction and The end of the seam. Depending on whether the connecting seam 32 is sewn on the right side of the outer garment or on the left side of the outer garment, the sewing seam 32 is sewn from the seam starting point 17a or from the seam starting point 17b. Two distribution seam positions P1, P2 are provided along the seam 32 between the two seam end points 17a, 17b. The seam length between the seam boundary point 17a and the distribution seam position P1 adjacent thereto is 35% of the total length L of the joint seam 32. The distance between the two distribution seam positions P1, P2 is 40% of the total length L, and the distribution seam position P2 and the other seam boundary point 17b of the joint seam 32 adjacent to the distribution seam position P2 The distance between them is 25% of the total length L.

The sewing control data generated by means of the generating method is considered for specifically sewing the neck band 13 according to the corresponding clothing size Gx of the sewing material portion 12. To this end, an exemplary mode sewing is first performed in which the seam 32 is divided into a plurality of seam sections not shown in FIG. The dispensing seam positions P1, P2 are placed on the wire slit 32 before or after the exemplary mode is sewn. For different garment sizes, this placement depends on the analysis results provided for the seam process optimized according to empirical values or the parameterized grades based on empirical values optimized for the progress of the seam 32. . The placement of the split seam positions P1, P2 is independent of the division of the seam 32 into a plurality of seam sections, exemplarily by sewing in the exemplary mode.

In the next step, the sewing parameter values are assigned to the assigned seam positions P1, P2. In the example according to Fig. 4, the assigned sewing parameter values are arc values and/or pleated values and/or grading values. Another generation method will be described below based on an example of allocation of hierarchical values. Still, or based on empirical values, ie based on empirical knowledge - stitching the end points 17a, 17b between successive garment sizes The length of the inter-slot 32 varies, or according to an exemplary mode sewing process in which the seams 32 are sewn to different garment sizes, the grade values are assigned to the dispense seam positions P1, P2. For example, a grading value of 3% may be assigned for the distribution seam position P1 and a gradation value of 4% for the distribution seam position P2.

In the generation method, it is checked that at least one of the distribution seam positions is located on the seam section generated in the division of the seam. Next, the assigned sewing parameter values, i.e., the grading values in the example, are assigned to the seam sections obtained in the division, and the corresponding distribution seam positions P1, P2 are located on the seam sections. This is based on which distribution seam position P1, P2 is located on the currently considered seam section. In the example according to Fig. 4, the seam section on which the seam position P1 is dispensed has a grading value of 3%, and the seam section on which the seam position P2 is distributed gives a gradation value of 4%.

According to an exemplary mode sewing for dividing a seam into a seam section, which has been mentioned at the outset, the length of a single seam section for the exemplary mode garment size is known. It is thus possible to determine by means of the grading values assigned to the individual seam sections, of the length of the seam section obtained in the division in the garment size different from the exemplary model garment size.

By means of the sewing control data thus generated, the seam 32 can be automatically sewn as a sequence of seam segments obtained in the division. Here, the starting point 17a of one end of the seam 32 or the starting point 17b of the other end of the seam 32 may be used as the sewing starting point 17 so as to be in the corresponding order a1, b1, c1 or in the order c1. B1, a1 sew the seam section.

As described above, different sewing parameter values can be assigned to the seam segments, such as different segment grading values or different multiple widths.

Depending on the method used to generate the sewing control data, the percentage length ratios of the lengths la1, lb1, and lc1 may also be different from the percentage values described above for the garment size example.

In the above-described method for generating sewing control data, the predetermined total classification value is used as a starting point. In the example of Table 1, the total classification value is 3.4%.

An alternative method for generating sewing control data is described below, which is also possible in the case where the total rating value is not specified. Here, the first reference garment size, such as garment size G4, is first selected. Sewing control data for the reference garment size G4 is then generated. In any case, the lengths la1, ... of the seam sections a1, ... belong to the sewing control data. For example, the sewing control data can be stitched by the first exemplary mode in the reference garment size G4, wherein the slit lengths la1, ... respectively stitched in the exemplary mode sewing are stored in the memory module 25.

Subsequently, another reference garment size, such as garment size G9, is selected. Sewing control data for the other reference garment size G9 is then generated. The additional sewing control data also includes at least the length la1, ... of the seam section of the other reference garment size G9. This additional sewing control material generated in another reference garment size G9 can also be generated by an exemplary mode stitching, as described above in connection with the first reference garment size G4. When the sewing control data is generated in the first reference garment size G4, other sewing parameters assigned to the seam sections a1, ... may be changed by regulation or calculation, except for the slit section lengths la1, ... In contrast to this, when the sewing control data is generated in another reference garment size G9, only the slit section lengths la1, . . . are generated and stored. In the other reference garment size G9, other seams are generated When sewing the data, the other sewing parameters assigned to the seam section a1, ... remain unchanged.

Starting from the sewing control data generated in the two reference garment sizes, sewing control data for other garment sizes are then calculated in the computing module 30 and specified by the control device 24 for processing. Other garment sizes are those that differ from the base garment sizes G4, G9. In addition to the length of the seam section la1, which can be calculated and specified for the other garment sizes without specifying a percentage value, in principle, other sewing parameter values can also be specified in this way. For example, for the value of the radius of the arc, for the value of the pleat or for the parameter value of the thread tension. However, the provision of other sewing parameter values other than the length l1, ... of the seam section is not mandatory, but the sewing parameter value can also be kept constant. If, in the foregoing example, for the seam section length lb1, a value of 120 mm is obtained for the reference garment size G4 and a value of 150 mm is obtained for the other reference garment size G9, the seam portions of the garment sizes G5 to G8 located therebetween are calculated by equidistant division. The segment length lb1, thereby obtaining the slit section lengths lb1126mm, 132mm, 138mm and 144mm for these garment sizes G5 to G8.

In an alternative method for generating sewing control data, sewing control data may also be generated for more than two reference garment sizes, for example by exemplary mode sewing. When more than two reference garment sizes are used, further improvements in the accuracy of sewing parameters of other garment sizes are achieved by increasing the number of control points correspondingly when calculating and specifying sewing control data for other garment sizes.

The seam for generating a sewing program will be described below with reference to Figs. 5 to 8. Another example of a method of generating a thread control data and a method of generating a seam. The components and functions described above in connection with FIGS. 1 through 4 and Tables 1 through 4 have the same reference numerals and the same names and will not be described in detail below.

Figure 5 shows the top loading portion 12 in a similar view to Figure 3, which will be sewn to the right sleeve not shown in Figure 5. A total of three dispensing seam positions P1, P2, and P3 are dispensed on the seam for stitching the upper portion and the sleeve portion. Starting from the sewing reference point 33, which is also the sewing starting point 17, the length of the seam between the sewing reference point 33 and the dispensing seam position P1 in the garment size schematically shown in Fig. 5 is the total length L of the seam. 30%. The seam length between the split seam positions P1 and P2 is 15% of the total length L. The seam length between the split seam positions P2 and P3 is 30% of the total length L. The seam length between the split seam position P3 and the sewing reference point 33 is correspondingly 25% of the total length L. Sewing parameters are assigned to each of the distribution seam positions P1 to P3 as described above in connection with FIG. Here, it may be a segment grading value or another sewing parameter such as a double width value or a pleated value or an arc radius value.

In the embodiment according to Fig. 5, the reference point 33 is simultaneously the sewing starting point 17.

In order to generate the sewing control data, the seam is divided into a plurality of seam sections in the exemplary mode sewing from the sewing starting point 17. Corresponding sewing parameters are assigned to the specified dispensing seam positions P1 to P3 as described above in connection with FIG. Also as described above in connection with Fig. 3, the assigned sewing parameters are then assigned to the seam sections obtained in the division of the stitches, at least one of which is located on the seam section. This also depends on which of the distribution seam positions P1 to P3 are located on the currently considered seam section obtained at the time of division.

In the subsequent automated running sewing, when between two successive seam sections, for example between a1/b1, b1/c1, c1/d1, the sewing parameters are automatically adjusted to be assigned to the new seam section. The parameter value of the segment. When changing to the seam section on which the distribution seam position P1 is located, for example, the arc radius value or the pleat value assigned to the distribution seam position P1 is set. In this case, it is ensured that the sewing takes place in the region of the dispensing seam position by means of the optimum sewing parameters there.

As described above in connection with Figure 4, the ranking value can also be assigned to the dispensing seam position. In order to sew in the basic garment size by the exemplary mode, for example, dividing the seam into a plurality of seam sections at a time as a starting point, it can be calculated and stored for other garments according to the gradation value assigned to the seam section by the distribution seam positions P1 to P3. The length of the seam portion of the size and the length is retrieved and used when stitching the corresponding garment size. Here, the generation process steps described above in connection with FIG. 2 and Tables 1 to 4 can be used.

In the running sewing, that is, after the sewing in the exemplary mode, based on the determination of the sewn segment to be sewn, the transformation between the parameter seam segments a1 to d1 is recognized from the sewing reference point 33. For example, the determination can be made by measuring the sewing segment.

The position and lengths la1 to ld1 of the parameter stitch sections a1 to d1 and the assigned sewing parameters are stored in the memory module 25 of the sewing machine 1.

The measurement of the sewing segment is also carried out by means of the detection module 26.

Adjustment is also made by means of the adjustment module 29.

Fig. 6 shows a case for sewing the upper body portion 12 and the left side sleeve portion. Here, the direction of rotation is opposite to the case where the right sleeve portion is sewn Perform sewing.

In the embodiment according to Fig. 6, three dispensing seam positions P1, P2 and P3 are also placed on the seam between the upper portion 12 and the left sleeve portion. A comparison with Fig. 5 reveals that, according to Fig. 6, these distribution seam positions P1, P2 and P3 are arranged on the line seam at the same relative position as in the example according to Fig. 5. This is not mandatory. Other free positioning of the split seam positions P1, P2 and P3 is also possible. The length of the seam from the sewing reference point 33 to the dispensing seam position P3 is 25% of the total length L of the seam. The length of the seam between the distribution seam positions P3 and P2 is 30% of the total length L. The seam length between the split seam positions P2 and P1 is 15% of the total length L, and the length between the distribution seam position P1 and the sewing reference point 33 is again 30% of the total length L.

Fig. 6 also shows a case in which the sewing reference point 33 and the sewing start point 17 coincide in the provided exemplary mode sewing. After the sewing parameters are assigned to the seam sections according to the position of the seam sections P1 to P3 obtained according to the exemplary mode division, the sewing parameters are assigned to the seam sections according to FIG. 6, and the sewing is performed along with the automatic parameter adjustment, as described above in connection with FIG. That's it.

A variant of the stitching according to the left sleeve and the upper part 12 of Fig. 6 is illustrated in accordance with Figs. 7 and 8, wherein the starting point 17' is moved by 50% of the total length L of the seam with reference to the sewing reference point 33.

Starting from the sewing reference point 33, even in the sewing process according to Figs. 7 and 8, the dispensing seam positions P1 to P3 and their parameter assignments are unchanged. In the sewing, starting from the starting point 17' of the movement, the sewing parameter conversion between the seam sections is performed based on the determination of the sewing section between the sewing reference point 33 and the sewing start point 17. For example, the determination can be made on the sewing machine 1 by means of a tap (see A point on the schematic illustration of the seam on the display screen 34 of Fig. 1) is input to a sewing starting point 17, which is signally connected to the control device 24.

For the starting point 17' selected according to Figures 7 and 8, it is obtained when this determination is made that the starting point 17' is moved by 50% of the total length L of the seam relative to the reference point 33. Compared with the sewing case according to Fig. 6, when the left sleeve is sewn, the direction of rotation of the sewing direction of the connection seam is maintained. That is, after the 5% of the total length L of the in-line seam is the distribution seam position P2, after 15% of the total length L of the seam is the distribution seam position P1, and after 55% of the total length L of the seam is the distribution seam Position P3. A 25% of the total length L of the seam is retained between the dispensing seam position P3 and the moving sewing starting point 17'. The movement corresponding to the starting point is assigned to the dispensing seam position P1 to P3 according to which dispensing seam positions P1 to P3 are located on the seam section currently considered from the moving sewing starting point 17' at the time of generating the sewing control data. The assignment of the sewing parameter values.

Figure 9 shows a sewing parameter situation along the seam optimization for the right sleeve in a similar illustration to Figure 3. Sewing parameters to be set corresponding to the empirical values along the line extending around the edge contour 14 are shown. The sewing direction is indicated in FIG. 9 by a directional arrow 18 which extends in a clockwise direction around the edge contour 14. Starting from the sewing starting point 17, in the first seam section up to the length of half of the seam in the garment front portion 35 of the shoulder seam 36, the pleating value has a small first value K1, the first value passing A slightly curved wavy line indicates. Corresponding to the small pleat value K1, the sleeve material along the seam has a small multiple width compared to the material of the front portion 35. The second half of the connecting seam between the sewing starting point 17 and the shoulder seam 36 has a larger pleating value K2, which is indicated in Figure 9 by a larger wavy line. Just in the area of the shoulder seam 36 The pleat value on a short seam section may have a value of zero. In a subsequent further progression, the pleated value again has a larger value K2, which corresponds to a larger sleeve material width than the material of the garment back 37. Roughly symmetric with the parameter progression in the front portion 35, the pleating value transitions from a larger value K2 to a smaller value K1. In the region of the garment side portion 38 opposed to the shoulder seam, the pleat value is zero. This also applies to the seam area around the sewing start point 17.

For example, where there is a small pleat value K1, there are also radial seam sections 19 and 22 having the arc radius value "large feed arc" described in connection with FIG. In the seam area having a large pleat value K2, there is a radius line slit section 20, 21 having an arc radius value "small feed arc", that is, a feed arc having a small radius.

A parameter variant is shown in Figure 9, in which there is also a small feed arc, i.e. the corresponding arc radius value, in the region of the shoulder seam 36. Alternatively, as described in connection with FIG. 3 , it is also possible in the region of the shoulder seam 36 to have a parameter seam section with a “no feed curve”, that is to say a straight seam run.

In addition to, for example, the distribution of the pleat value K and the arc radius value corresponding to the distribution according to FIG. 9 in the optimum seam direction, a complete set of sewing control data also includes a description of the length of the seam section, which is The length of the first set of seam segments in the base dimension is derived for all other garment sizes, ie the rating values.

By means of the generation and operation method described above in connection with Figures 1 to 8, an automatic sewing is achieved which is as close as possible to the optimized parameter distribution. Here, two different method variants are distinguished:

- In the above, in particular in combination with the grading values and in the first variant of the description described in FIG. 4 and thereafter, in order to provide actual running sewing, the seam is divided into a plurality of seam sections, which have been provided above The demonstration mode sewing is explained as an example. Here, the sewing control data is completely generated for the example seam, in particular for the garment size. An example for this is the assignment of grading values to calculate all other seam lengths from the provided stenciled model garment size. In the running of the sewing, the seam sequence is initially stored in the sewing control with the sewing parameters already assigned to it.

That is to say, the seam is first divided into seam sections, and then the sewing parameters are assigned to the seam sections.

- Alternatively, the dispensing of the sewing parameters has already taken place during the running of the sewing, for example as described above in connection with FIG. The preparation of the sewing process, in particular the exemplary mode sewing for generating the sewing control data, can be dispensed with. Here, the division of the seam to the seam section during the exemplary mode sewing is parameterized in the exemplary mode sewing, in particular without a precise understanding of the entire seam length.

That is to say, the sewing parameters are assigned to the seam section during the division of the seam into the seam section. This alternative assignment method can be used, for example, for arc radius values or pleating values or also for line tension values and/or other sewing parameters.

A different example for dividing a seam into a plurality of running seam sections is illustrated in accordance with FIGS. 10 to 12, which can take place in an exemplary mode of sewing and subsequently perform a corresponding running sewing on this basis.

Figure 10 shows the division of the seam into a total of three running seam segments a1, b1 and c1. Since only three running seam sections a1 to c1 are available for use, the sewing parameters can only be assigned to these running seam sections a1 to c1 in a limited manner. This is shown in Figure 10 similar to the illustration according to Figure 9. The running seam section a1 has about 20% of the total length L of the seam starting from the sewing starting point 17. The running seam section b1 has about 35% of the total length L of the seam and extends symmetrically about the shoulder seam 36, which is substantially centrally located in the running seam section b1. The running seam section c1 is the remaining 45% of the seam length L.

In the running seam sections a1 and c1, there are a pleating value K=0 and an arc radius value "large feed arc". There is a pleating value between the pleating values K1 and K2 in the running seam section b1, and an arc radius value "small feed arc", which are described above in connection with FIG.

Figure 11 shows that starting from the sewing starting point 17, the seam is divided into five running seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1 and e1. The running seam section a1 has 5% of the entire seam length L. The subsequent running seam section b1 has 15% of the total length L of the seam. The subsequent running seam section c1 has 25% of the total length L of the seam. The subsequent running seam section d1 has 15% of the total length of the seam, and the last running seam section e1 has 40% of the total length L of the seam. In the line seam section a1, the pleating value K=0 and sewing is performed without the feed curve. In the running seam section b1, the pleating value is K1 and the sewing is performed with the arc radius value "large feed arc". In the running seam section c1, the pleating value is K2 and the sewing is performed with the arc radius value "small feed arc". In the running seam section d1, the pleating value is again K1 and the sewing is again performed with the arc radius value "large feed arc". In the running seam section e1, the pleating value K=0 and in the case where there is no feed arc Sewing is performed. In the running seam section c1, the shoulder seam 36 is also substantially centered. The running seam sections b1 and d1 are substantially symmetrical with respect to each other.

Figure 12 shows the division of the seam into a total of seven running seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1. Based on these running seam sections a1 to g1, the distribution of the sewing parameters can be correspondingly finer, as also shown in FIG. The length of the seam section running the seam sections a1 to g1 is 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10%, and 40% of the total length L of the seam. The running seam section d1 is also located in the area of the shoulder seam 36.

The pleating value K=0 is along the running seam sections a1, d1 and g1. The pleating value is K1 along the running seam sections b1 and f1. The pleating value is K2 along the running seam sections c1 and e1. Sewing is performed without running the arc along the running seam sections a1 and g1. Sewing is performed along the running seam sections b1 and f1 with the arc radius value "large feed arc". Sewing is performed along the running seam sections c1, d1, and e1 with the arc radius value "small feed arc".

The operator is free to specify the division of the entire seam to the running seam section. Whenever the seam is divided into seam sections, the sewing control data must be specified such that it is as close as possible to the optimized parameter distribution corresponding to FIG.

Possible solutions for generating sewing control data to ensure this are already described above in particular in connection with Figures 4 to 8. Table 5 below shows the grading values assigned to the running seam sections corresponding to the method.

Thus, this assignment of the hierarchical value GW takes into account which distribution seam positions P1 to P3 are present on the respective currently considered seam sections a1, ... in the distribution according to FIGS. 10 to 12.

In the distribution according to Fig. 10, the two distribution seam positions P1 and P2 are located on the running seam section b1. The sub-slot position P3 is located on the running seam section c1. Accordingly, the ranking value GW is assigned to the seam section as shown in the "FIG. 10" column of Table 5. It is also possible to perform the above-described assignment of the pleat values K1, K2 and the arc radius values in accordance with the positions of the distribution seam positions P1 to P3 on the respective currently considered seam sections a1 to c1. Since the two distribution seam positions P1 and P2 are located on the running seam section b1, neither the pleating value K1 of the distribution seam position P1 nor the pleating of the distribution seam position P2 is assigned for the running seam section b1. Instead of the value K2, an average pleat value is assigned, for example (K1+K2)/2.

In the seam division according to Fig. 11, both of the distribution seam positions P1 and P2 are located on the seam section c1. The split seam position P3 is located in the seam section On d1. The classification value GW is assigned to the seam sections a1 to e1 as explained in the "FIG. 11" column of Table 5.

In the slit section division according to Fig. 12, the distribution seam position P1 is located on the seam section c1. The split seam position P2 is located on the seam section e1, and the distribution seam position P3 is located on the seam section g1. Accordingly, the assignment of the hierarchical values GW1, GW2, GW3 is performed as explained in the "FIG. 12" column of Table 5. Of course, it is also possible to assign other sewing parameters, such as arc radius values or pleat values, instead of the grading value GW.

If the approximate length of the entire seam and the size of the garment are known, which can be selected in the machine control by corresponding provisions, the sewing parameter assignment can be made online during the exemplary mode sewing. This case for the variants "right sleeve" and "left sleeve" is again illustrated in accordance with Figures 13 and 14, in which a variant of the method of operation is described, which has been discussed above in connection with Figure 3. Starting from the sewing starting point 17, the seam is divided into parameter seam sections 19, 20, 21, 22 and another final seam section between the parameter seam sections 22 and 19. Unlike the division of the sewing parameter sections in the example according to Fig. 3, the parameter seam sections 20 and 21 are combined into a combined seam section, the combined seam section being completely assigned the arc radius value "small feed" radius". From the sewing starting point 17, the sewing is performed by assigning the arc radius value of the first parameter seam section, that is, the first radius seam section 19, that is, the arc radius value "large feed radius". Once the transformation between the two running seam sections not shown in Figures 13 and 14 is no longer carried out in the parameter seam section 19, but in the subsequent parameter seam section, the arc radius value is taken Adjust to the arc assigned to this new parameter seam section Line radius value. Since the running seam section is expected to have a certain length, the boundary between the respective parameter seam sections 19 to 22 is located with reference to the sewing direction 18 as compared with the optimized arc radius value - seam area shown in Figs. 13 and 14, respectively. In front. This ensures that when a running seam section terminates after the boundary between two parameter seam sections, for example, on the side of the parameter seam section 19 and the parameter seam section 20, 21, it is desirable For the optimization of the sewing parameter assignment, the adjustment of the arc radius value in the seam area where such transformation is required is performed, in the example, the adjustment from the arc radius value "large feed curve" to the arc radius value" small feed curve ”

In the variant of the control data generation scheme for the left sleeve according to Fig. 14, the seam is correspondingly divided into radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22, this time the transition is advanced counterclockwise with reference to the direction of rotation of the sewing direction 18. Optimized arc radius value - seam area.

The method described above is particularly useful for stitching sleeves in the body-coat seam portion without pre-pleating and in particular for making tops.

14‧‧‧Edge contour section

16‧‧‧ right armhole

17‧‧‧ seam starting point

18‧‧‧Sewing direction

19, 20, 21, 22, 23‧‧‧ parameter seam section

A1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1, g1, h1, i1‧‧‧ running seam section

Claims (10)

A method for operating a sewing machine for suturing a seam portion along a seam, wherein at least one sewing parameter can be specified by a sewing machine, the running method having the following steps: - dividing the seam into a plurality of parameter seam segments, - giving The sewing parameter values are assigned to the seam sections of each parameter, - the stitching part of the running seam section along the seam starting from the starting point of the seam, - wherein the sequence of running seam sections gives a kind and is divided into parameter lines The seam of the seam section is divided into unrelated seams, - the seam part is stitched at the beginning of the stitching with the specified initial sewing parameter value, - when changing between two successive running seam sections, if The change is automatically performed in a parameter seam section to which a sewing parameter value different from the currently set sewing parameter value is assigned, and the sewing parameter value is automatically adjusted. According to the operation method of claim 1, one of the parameter seam sections overlaps with the at least two running seam sections. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the seam is divided into parameter seam sections in relation to the specified size of the garment to be sewn. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the seam is divided into a parameter seam section in relation to a seam start point. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the seam portion has a bend The edge contour section of the curve, where the arc radius is assigned as a sewing parameter. The method of claim 5, further comprising the sequence of assigned arc radius values, wherein the arc radius value in the first region of the stitch is first changed to a value of "small feed arc". The method of claim 5, further comprising the sequence of assigned arc radius values, wherein the arc radius value in the last region of the stitch is changed to a value "larger feed arc". The method of claim 5, further comprising a sequence of assigned arc radius values, wherein the arc radius value is used between two radius seam segments having a radius radius value "small feed arc" The arc radius value "no feed arc". A sewing machine for performing the method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising: - a control device, - a position for a parameter seam section and a memory module for a value of the relevant sewing parameter, - a detection module for detecting a corresponding current sewing position in the seam of the connecting thread, an adjustment module for changing between two successive running seam sections, if the transformation is in a The sewing parameter value is automatically adjusted by assigning a parameter in the seam section of the sewing parameter value different from the currently set sewing parameter value. The sewing machine of claim 9, wherein the memory module has The length of the parameter seam section and the memory unit for the assigned sewing parameters.