CN104141204B

CN104141204B - For the operation method for the sewing machine for suturing sewing part

Info

Publication number: CN104141204B
Application number: CN201410189832.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: T·维尔德贝尔格
Original assignee: Duerkopp Adler AG
Current assignee: Durkep Adler Co.,Ltd.
Priority date: 2013-05-07
Filing date: 2014-05-07
Publication date: 2018-02-27
Anticipated expiration: 2034-05-07
Also published as: KR102109095B1; KR20140132283A; JP2014217754A; JP6343484B2; EP2801649B1; EP2801649A1; TWI625439B; TW201510314A; DE102013208411A1; CN104141204A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of operation method for being used to suture the sewing machine (1) of sewing part (12) along linear slit, at least one sewing parameter wherein is provided using function of sewing, linear slit is divided into multiple parameters linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22).In addition, assign sewing parameter value to each parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22).From linear slit starting point (the sequence stitching sewing part (12) of operation linear slit section (b1, c1, e1, f1, h1, i1) of 17)s along linear slit.The sequence of operation linear slit section gives a kind of unrelated linear slit of linear slit division with being divided into parameter linear slit section and divided.Sewing part (12) are sutured with defined starting sewing parameter value when suturing beginning.When in two successive operation linear slit section (b1, c1；e1、f1；H1, i1) between when converting, automatically adjust sewing parameter value.If the conversion is assigned in the parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22) of the sewing parameter value different from the sewing parameter value currently set one and carried out, sewing parameter value is just automatically adjusted.Thus provide a kind of operation method of simplified sewing part suture.

Description

For the operation method for the sewing machine for suturing sewing part

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of operation method for being used to suture the sewing machine of sewing part.Moreover, it relates to one Kind is used for the sewing machine for performing this method.

Background technology

A kind of corresponding sewing machine there is known by the A2 of EP 1 897 984.One kind there is known by the C1 of DE 199 20 350 For the operation method for the sewing machine for connecting two sewing parts.One kind is there is known by the A1 of DE 10 2,007 003 721 to be used for The method of generation sewing control data.

The content of the invention

It is an object of the present invention to so improve this sewing machine operation method, that is, simplify the suture of sewing part.

According to the present invention, the purpose is realized by the operation method according to the present invention.

According to present invention recognizes that, sewing parameter value is automatically adjusted to according to the assignment shifted one's position along linear slit One sewing parameter value determining, being assigned realizes, and being divided into operation linear slit section with linear slit independently ensure that based on position Put the sewing parameter of optimization.Conversion between successive operation linear slit section can automatically be carried out based on sewing process；But Alternatively it is also possible to carry out manually.The whole length of linear slit can be arbitrarily divided into operation linear slit section, wherein passing through rule Determine parameter linear slit section to be always ensured that, when the rim condition of the change due to two sewing parts needs, then stitched Thread the conversion of parameter value.So especially it significantly simplify sewing process at the complicated sewing part of suture.Sewing parameter can be with It is radius of curvature.Sewing part can have the edge contour section of bending.Can be with by means of the operation method according to the present invention Operation linear slit section, which is divided into, with linear slit independently mutually should ensure that camber line half for sewing feeding camber line, based on position optimization Footpath.Example for this is the sleeve suture of man's coat or Ms's coat.Can by means of sewing machine with it is could dictate that, still can phase The radius of curvature that should be changed performs the operation method.It is there is known by the A2 of EP 1 897 984 with the camber line that could dictate that half The sewing machine in footpath.Can be able to be pleating value with the corresponding sewing parameter that relatively adjust of operation linear slit parameter, i.e., along waiting to stitch The ratio of the length of material of two sewing parts of the operation linear slit section of conjunction.Garment dimension can be ready-made clothes size.Symmetrical Clothes article in, connection linear slit can be divided into multiple parameters linear slit section and for both sides independently assign sewing ginseng Numerical value.Especially this is favourable for sleeve suture.In order to consider actual conditions --- operation linear slit section has a fixed length Degree, connection linear slit is so preferably divided into parameter linear slit section, i.e., observed along the sewing direction for being used for linear slit, two parameters connect Stitch the border between section or shift one's position in desired linear slit region --- wherein it is desirable to the sewing parameter assigned acts as With --- before.So it is considered that after linear slit distance certain after borderline region between two parameter linear slit sections Just carry out the conversion between successive operation linear slit section and then carry out the adjustment of sewing parameter.Can based on experience value and Especially can be by considering that preceding sewing control data generates result to be divided into ginseng in different benchmark garment dimensions Number linear slit section.Corresponding situation is applied to the assignment of sewing parameter value.Can be during linear slit to be divided into parameter linear slit section Carry out the assignment of sewing parameter value.Such possibility can be designed：User for example by Introduced Malaria value or passes through input Another sewing parameter value come correct or change assign sewing parameter value.Input can for example pass through input equipment --- for example Guidance panel or keyboard are carried out, the control device signal connection of the input equipment and sewing machine.

According to a kind of preferred embodiment, a parameter linear slit section and at least two operation linear slit section lappings.It is right In this lapping situation, the conversion of sewing parameter value is carried out when can be converted between two operation linear slit sections.Work as parameter line When seam section runs linear slit section lapping with two just, this conversion is enforceable, so that sewing parameter and linear slit Process especially meticulously matches.

According to a kind of preferred embodiment, linear slit is relatively divided into parameter linear slit portion by garment dimension to be stapled Section.Linear slit is divided into the matching particularly well that parameter linear slit section ensure that sewing process and each garment dimension in this wise.

According to a kind of preferred embodiment, linear slit is relatively divided into parameter linear slit section with linear slit starting point.It is this Situation correspondingly applies to connection linear slit being divided into parameter linear slit section.

According to a kind of preferred embodiment, the sewing part has the edge contour section of bending, its mean camber line half Footpath is assigned as sewing parameter.The advantages of hereinbefore having discussed this operation method.Parameter linear slit section is then half Footpath linear slit section.

Preferably, method also includes the sequence for the radius of curvature value being assigned, wherein described in the first area of linear slit Radius of curvature value changes into value " less feeding camber line " first.Method also includes the sequence for the radius of curvature value being assigned, its In the radius of curvature value described in last region of linear slit change into value " larger feeding camber line ".Method also includes being divided The sequence of the radius of curvature value of group, wherein two radius linear slit sections with radius of curvature value " less feeding camber line " it Between the radius of curvature value using radius of curvature value " it is no feeding camber line.The sequence of such radius of curvature value is verified to reality Border is specially suitable for requiring.Such case is particularly suitable for use in the application of " sleeve suture ".As scheme, " method also includes The sequence for the radius of curvature value being assigned, wherein in two radius linear slit portions with radius of curvature value " less feeding camber line " The radius of curvature value is using radius of curvature value " no feeding camber line " between section " it is alternative, be with radius of curvature value in form Can also exist just between two parameter linear slit sections of the radius linear slit section of " larger feeding camber line " has camber line half The radius linear slit section of footpath value " smaller feeding camber line "., can be by feeding accordingly especially in the application of " sleeve suture " These scheme modifications of camber line meticulously match with sleeve shape.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a kind of sewing machine for being used to perform the method according to the invention.This is another One purpose is realized according to the present invention by the sewing machine according to the present invention.

The advantages of the advantages of sewing machine, is corresponding to above by referring to described in the operation method according to the present invention.It is each to work as Preceding sewing position can for example pass through the sewing needle tracking counting or alternative to defined stitch length by means of detection module Ground is carried out by the actual linear slit position of optical detection.

Preferably, the memory module has the length for parameter linear slit section and the sewing parameter for being assigned Memory cell.Such memory module realizes the clearly assignment of stitching data.This for example can be unique by changing Replaceable storage medium change.

Brief description of the drawings

Below embodiments of the invention are elaborated by accompanying drawing.Wherein：

Fig. 1 is illustrated for being sutured to the sewing part with curved edge outline segment along linear slit with having an X-rayed Sewing machine, wherein in order to clearly eliminate the interior details of casing member；

Fig. 2 schematically shows above dress part and sleeve part to be stapled is divided into two sewing portions to be sutured to each other of example Point；And

Fig. 3 shows to fill the armhole of sewing part for along the connecting line of dress part and affiliated sleeve part on this Seam shows to run linear slit section and radius linear slit section；

Fig. 4 is with the armhole edge segments that diagrammatically show coat sewing part similar with Fig. 3, wherein in different parameters Correspondingly change section rank value between linear slit section；

Fig. 5 is with similar with Fig. 3 armhole for diagrammatically illustrating upper dress sewing part for along dress portion on this Point parameter linear slit section for section rank value is shown with the connection linear slit of affiliated sleeve part, it is shown for the right At the connection linear slit of sleeve, wherein sewing starting point is consistent with the sewing datum mark for parameter linear slit section；

Fig. 6 with similar with Fig. 5 situation that diagrammatically show the connection linear slit for left side sleeve, wherein sewing starting point and Sewing datum mark for parameter linear slit section overlaps；

Fig. 7 and 8 shows the upper dress part according to Fig. 6, illustrated therein is when being stitched for the connection linear slit of left side sleeve Situation, wherein sewing starting point is with reference to sewing datum mark, circumferentially direction moves whole connection linear slit length around armhole 50%；

Fig. 9 is simplifiedly shown by taking the sleeve of right side as an example for the sleeve line of optimization strongly again by the diagram similar with Fig. 3 The sewing parameter value of seam；

Figure 10 to 12 shows an example that sleeve linear slit is divided into operation linear slit section according to Fig. 9, wherein equally showing Associated sewing parameter is gone out；

Sleeve linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit section by Figure 13 with diagrammatically show similar with Fig. 3 for the right sleeve Alternative；And

Sleeve linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit portion by Figure 14 with diagrammatically show similar with Figure 13 for left side sleeve The situation of section.

Embodiment

Sewing machine 1 has upper arm 2, vertical column 3 and the commonly referred to as lower body of substrate 4.Substrate 4 has to tower upwards Post 5, therefore sewing machine 1 be also referred to as post-type sewing machine.Alternatively, sewing machine 1 can also be embodied as flatcar sewing machine/platform-type Sewing machine.The main shaft not being shown specifically is rotatably supported in arm 2.The He of drive motor 6 being arranged on by one in substrate 4 The tape handler not being shown specifically in the accompanying drawings carrys out drive shaft and then drives the main sewing part of sewing machine 1.Pass through master Axle and crank driving mechanism can vertically drive shank up and down, and the shank is vertically supported in arm 2 and is not shown in the accompanying drawings, Pin is carried in its bottom.In Fig. 1 dotted line with 7 approximate locations for representing shank.The rotatable drive in post 5 in lower parts of needle Rotating shuttle is supported with dynamicly.In order to suture sewing part (referring to the sewing part in Fig. 2 and 3), by the upside for foring post 5 And the pinhole plate 9 that the stretching of post 5 is laterally crossed along sewing direction guides, pin passes through the pinhole plate in the region of rotating shuttle.

Material component 10 is moved in bottom and top moves material component 11 and is used to make the seam of sewing part to be sutured to each other along sewing machine 1 Thread direction forward movement.The shifting material component is described in detail in the A2 of EP1 897 984.Sewing machine 1 is expected by means of the two shiftings Component 10,11 can be along the sewing part of edge contour section of the connection linear slit suture with bending, wherein feeding camber line Radius of curvature, i.e. sewing parameter can provide that this is equally described in the A2 of EP1 897 984 by sewing.

It is to be illustrated the situation before two sewing parts are sutured that more than Fig. 2, which fills part 12 and sleeve part 13,.Should Diagram is extremely consumingly simplified and corresponding to the C1 of DE 199 20 350 Fig. 3.

The edge contour 14,15 of two sewing parts 12,13 has the edge contour portion bent along linear slit to be stapled Section.Unlike this, according to Fig. 2 schematic illustration it may be speculated that these edge contours 14,15, be used for each other along linear slit Relevant edge outline segment a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ... of suture are not necessarily with identical radius of curvature, phase Instead they generally have different radius of curvature.These edge contour sections define then also referred to as " parameter linear slit section " , connection linear slit section.

When suturing sewing part 12,13, the parameter linear slit portion corresponding to edge contour section a1/a2 ... is sequentially completed Duan Xulie.These parameter linear slit sections have length la1/a2, lb1/b2, lc1/c2, ld1/d2 ....Sewing part 12,13 , in sewing, parameter linear slit the section la1 and la2, lb1 and the lb2 ... that are relative to each other generally do not have identical length.Example Such as, relevant parameter linear slit section a1, b1 ... of usual parameter linear slit section a2, b2 ... of sleeve part 13 than upper dress part 12 It is long.

Length la1, lb1, lc1, ld1 ... of the parameter linear slit section of upper dress part 12 are generally different from each other.Kindred circumstances Suitable for length la2, lb2 ... of the parameter linear slit section of sleeve part 13.

Fig. 3 is relatively illustrated in detail in filling the situation of the parameter linear slit section of part 12.Show in right side armhole 16 Upper dress part 12 in region.Connection linear slit for unshowned sleeve part is sewed along each operation linear slit section, its In in Fig. 3 highlight operation linear slit section b1, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1.The length of these operation linear slit sections is based on operator Member personal stitching process and change.The parameter linear slit section that operation linear slit section can have been described above with foregoing combination Fig. 2 Overlap；But this is not enforceable.It is unrelated with parameter linear slit section in principle to run linear slit section.

The connection linear slit of upper dress part 12 with unshowned sleeve part 13 starts from starting point 17 of sewing.Connect linear slit Sewed clockwise along the sewing direction 18 in Fig. 3 from then on.Except be divided into different operation linear slit section a1, B1 ... is outer, and connection linear slit is also divided into the parameter linear slit section sequence that form is radius linear slit section.For radius linear slit section The radius of curvature value of the radius of curvature of the feeding camber line for could dictate that by means of sewing machine 1 is assigned with respectively.Only shown in Fig. 3 Following radius linear slit section：Wherein the charging radius with finite is assigned in radius of curvature value.Those are not shown Do not provide the radius linear slit section of feeding camber line wherein, borrowed in these radius linear slit sections under the influence of no operating personnel Help sewing machine 1 to sew out linearly extended linear slit section.

In the process of connection linear slit, exist radius linear slit section 19,20,21 with radius of curvature value and 22 sequences with For providing to feed camber line.Here, the radius of curvature value in radius linear slit section 19 and 22 is indicated with larger radius, i.e., Feeding camber line with small curvature.The radius of curvature of radius linear slit section 20,21 between radius linear slit section 19 and 22 Value shows that it has the feeding camber line of less radius of curvature, i.e., the feeding camber line that camber line is stronger or bending is bigger.

Sequence along the radius of curvature value of connection linear slit is such：Radius of curvature value connection linear slit process the In one region, i.e., until radius linear slit section 20, is changed into " less (bending is stronger) feeding camber line " value first.From radius Seam section 21 starts, and a kind of sequence of radius linear slit section be present, wherein in the final area of the process of connection linear slit, camber line Radius value is changed into " larger (bending is less strong) feeding camber line " value.

In two radius linear slit sections 20,21 with " less feeding camber line ", i.e. the radius of curvature value of greater curvature Between exist with radius of curvature value " small feeding camber line " linear slit section 23.

Between linear slit starting point 17 and radius linear slit section 19 connection linear slit linear slit section with operation linear slit section a1 and B1 is overlapped.Radius linear slit section 19 overlaps with operation linear slit section b1 and c1.Radius linear slit section 20 and operation linear slit section c1, D1 and e1 overlap joints.Radius linear slit section between two radius linear slit sections 20 and 21, i.e. linear slit section 23 and operation linear slit portion Section e1 and f1 overlap joints.Radius linear slit section 21 overlaps with operation linear slit section f1, g1 and h1.Radius linear slit section 22 and operation line Stitch section h1 and i1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit section 22 and until linear slit starting point 17 connection linear slit remainder between radius Linear slit section and operation linear slit section i1 and the operation linear slit section between operation linear slit section i1 and linear slit starting point 17 are taken Connect, the connection linear slit of closure terminates in the linear slit starting point.

Sewing machine 1 has the control device 24 shown in simplifying in Fig. 1.Control device 24, which has, is used for radius linear slit section 19th, 20,21 to 22 and the memory module 25 of related radius of curvature value.Control device 24, which also has, to be used to detect connecting line The detection module 26 of corresponding current sewing position in seam.It is this detection for example can in known stitch length by along The needle tracking for connecting linear slit counts progress.Alternatively it is also possible to for example by figure 1 illustrates optical sensor 27 carry out to reality The optical detection of border linear slit position.

Alternatively, another memory cell 28 can be integrated with memory module 25 and is used for storage running linear slit section A1, b1 ... and a2, b2 ... length (lx1, lx2).Pleating value is stored in corresponding memory cell, by treating each other The relation of the length of operation linear slit section a1/a2, b1/b2 ... of suture obtains the pleating value.In addition to regulation feeds camber line, Also this Raff values of regulation or pleating value are realized by means of sewing machine 1, same that as described in the A2 of EP 1 897 984 Sample.

It is handled as follows in the operation of sewing machine 1：Connection linear slit is divided into radius linear slit section first, i.e., for example Radius linear slit section 19,20,23,21,22.Then radius of curvature value is dispatched to corresponding radius linear slit section.According to Fig. 3 Embodiment in, the radius of curvature value of " big radius of curvature, i.e., small curvature " is assigned to radius linear slit section 19 and 22, and to half Footpath linear slit section 20 and 21 is assigned " radius of curvature with small radii value, i.e. greater curvature ".Other the half of charging linear slit Assign " no feeding camber line " radius of curvature value in the linear slit section of footpath.Corresponding data storage control device 24 memory 25, In 28.

Then the seam of sewing part 12,13 is carried out along operation linear slit section a1/a2, b1/b2 ... from linear slit starting point 17 Close.When entering line translation between successive operation linear slit section, for example, a1/a2 and b1/b2, adjustment sewing operational factor, example Pleating value as already mentioned.This adjustment is carried out by means of the adjusting module 29 of control device 24.

When suturing beginning, i.e., since linear slit starting point 17, to defined starting radius of curvature value, having herein The sewing part 12,13 of " no feeding camber line " radius of curvature value is sutured.Then in two successive operation linear slit sections Between when entering line translation, such as run enter line translation between linear slit section a1/a2 and b1/b2 when, as long as the conversion is at one Carried out in radius linear slit section, be then radius of curvature value that it is allocated as follows：The radius of curvature value is from the camber line currently set half Footpath value deviates, and the radius of curvature value automatically becomes the new radius of curvature value of the radius linear slit section.Because linear slit section a1/ Conversion between a2 and b1/b2 is still carried out before the beginning of the first radius linear slit section 19 along connection linear slit, so herein simultaneously The conversion between radius of curvature value does not occur.

When run enter line translation between linear slit section b1/b2 and c1/c2 when, radius of curvature value is automatically from radius of curvature value " no feeding camber line " changes towards radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".Because there occurs operation line in radius linear slit section 19 The transition between section b1/b2 and c1/c2 is stitched, is carried out so this adjustment is automatic.Correspondingly, as operation linear slit section c1/c2 When transition occurring between d1/d2, radius of curvature value is changed into value " no feeding camber line ", because the transition is in radius linear slit section 20 Interior progress.When running generation transition between linear slit section d1/d2 and e1/e2, without the conversion of radius of curvature value, because should Transition is also carried out in radius linear slit section 20.

When running generation transition between linear slit section e1/e2 and f1/f2, radius of curvature value is changed into value " no feeding again Camber line ", because the transition is carried out in linear slit section 23.In an alternative linear slit program, operation linear slit section e1/e2 is grown to Linear slit section 23 is completely covers, so as to which the end of the alternative operation linear slit section e1/e2 exists in radius linear slit section In 21, therefore radius of curvature value is not converted in this case yet in the linear slit program.

In the shown embodiment, in operation linear slit section f1/f2 and g1/g2 transition, radius of curvature value is from value " no feeding camber line " converts towards value " small feeding camber line ".

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 3, the adjust automatically next time of radius of curvature value in operation linear slit section h1/h2 and Carried out when entering line translation between i1/i2, i.e., until radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".

When being converted between the last operation linear slit section in operation linear slit section i1 and up to linear slit starting point 17, arc Line radius value converts from value " compared with roughing feed camber line " towards value " no feeding camber line " again.

Radius of curvature value so with correspondingly sewing part above in sewing --- be typically sleeve part 13 --- edge contour matching, i.e., by means of the feeding camber line of respective settings consider between two sewing parts 12,13 The difference of edge contour in corresponding current operation linear slit section x1/x2 to be stapled.

Position that can be based on garment dimension defined, with suture and/or based on linear slit starting point 17 will connect linear slit stroke It is divided into radius linear slit section.

In addition, sewing machine 1 also has the computing module 30 for being used for calculating sewing control data.The sewing control data can be with The linear slit section generated before being assigned to by the division to linear slit, then still this will be described.

Sewing machine 1 based on for complete with corresponding garment dimension correlation it is sewing process, generate and calculate Control data of sewing and can, being sewed out in the process of sewing process one has multiple successive linear slit sections a1, b1 ... Linear slit, the connection linear slit for example having been described above before.Between each linear slit section, sewing parameter, such as section rank value can With change.The adjustment of sewing parameter is carried out automatically when can be converted between successive linear slit section a1, b1 ....

The example of one group of this sewing control data is provided in following table 1.It is assumed below：Connecting line, which sews, to be divided into 5 parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2.The parameter linear slit section of other quantity can certainly be divided into, such as is divided into 5 to 11 linear slit sections.Here, table 1 shows the section point for different parameter linear slit section a1/a2, b1/b2 ... e1/e2 Level value or length share and total rank value.Table 1a the first row illustrates the section rank value of parameters linear slit section with being somebody's turn to do Run the ratio of the length of linear slit section.Table 1a the second row illustrates section rank value with being connected the total length of linear slit --- i.e. All parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 length and --- ratio.Section shown in table 1a last column is classified For value, the ratio of the section rank value and its corresponding length of each parameter linear slit section is mutually the same.For parameter linear slit section A1/a2 meets：0.38%/3.4%=50mm/450mm, wherein exemplarily providing the section length for garment dimension G4 herein Degree.All section rank values and indicate total rank value.

Generally, the section rank value related to the length of parameters linear slit section with and be connected linear slit total length it is related Total rank value it is different.

Table 1b shows garment dimension Gx in first row, and corresponding parameter linear slit section a1/a2 is shown in subsequent row To e1/e2 length.Table 1b shows the total length of connection linear slit in row second from the bottom, and it is again related to garment dimension.Table Last row on the 1b right side show that the size of the total seams between successive garment dimension Gx increases, i.e., total classification Value.

Table 1a

Table 1b

The sewing control data according to table 1a and 1b is generated as follows：A key dimension is selected first, herein such as clothes Size G4.Size based on any garment dimension can also be selected in principle.Then each ginseng is generated for garment dimension G4 Number linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 length, i.e., length value 50mm, 120mm, 20mm, 100mm, 160mm in this example embodiment and 450mm。

In addition, it is specified that total score level value, is in this example embodiment value 3.4%.Now on this basis, generation sewing control data With the length of the parameter linear slit section in particular for other garment dimension G1 to G3 and G5 to G10.The base in the example of table 1 The calculating of the length to parameters linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 is performed in total rank value 3.4%, wherein the length table Show without decimal place.In the example of table 1, on parameters linear slit section length extension share respectively with total rank value It is identical, that is, it is similarly 3.4%.I.e. all parameter linear slit section length extend identical percentage share.

After defining for the key dimension data of key dimension G4 and total rank value, calculate automatically all other Sewing control data.The regulation of key dimension data can by pattern model sew or can also by data input, such as Manually data input or the corresponding key dimension data of reading are carried out.When providing total rank value, different benchmark is taken Fill the result that foregoing sewing control data can be used to generate for size.In the sewing control data according to table 1, according to ginseng Number linear slit section accounts for the length share of connection linear slit total length, and the section rank value of parameter linear slit section, which is equal to, accounts for total rank value Share.

Can also be that parameters linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 assigns other sewing parameters, such as pleating value or again Width values (Mehrweiten-Wert), as above, or also other sewing operational factors.In sewing control data Flexible program in, be similarly different garment dimensions parameter linear slit section assign radius of curvature value.Above-mentioned radius linear slit portion Section is another example of parameter linear slit section.Parameter linear slit section for radius of curvature value need not in terms of its position and length It is consistent with the parameter linear slit section for section rank value.

Another flexible program for generating sewing control data is described according to table 2.

Table 2a

Table 2b

When generating sewing control data according to table 2, section rank value is equally provided based on total rank value, so as to for phase After garment dimension Gx, Gx+1 at least extend some linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2.In the example according to table 2, it is Linear slit section b1/b2, d1/d2 and e1/e2 (being extended).Other parameter linear slit section a1/a2 and c1/c2 are for successive Garment dimension is not extended, i.e., with constant length 50mm or 20mm.Correspondingly, parameter linear slit section b1/b2, d1/d2 and E1/e2 is extended an extension share, and the share that extends optionally accounts for the share of connection linear slit total length equivalent to it.

Total rank value 3.4% is based on parameter linear slit section b1/b2 (extending share 1.05%), d1/d2 (extends share 0.85%) so it is distributed with e1/e2 (extending share 1.5%), i.e., based on the section rank value in successive garment dimension Gx, Gx In+1, i.e., for example between garment dimension G4 and G5, total linear slit of a garment dimension changes according to total rank value.

In the case of in accordance with the boundary condition, other distributions of the section rank value different from the distribution according to table 1 and 2 It is and feasible.In extreme circumstances, total rank value can be realized by only extending unique parameter linear slit section.In another kind Under extreme case, it is determined that section rank value can also have negative percent value, the negative percent value then passes through other parameters The section rank value overcompensation of linear slit section.

In symmetrical clothes article, i.e., it can be given birth to independently of one another in the left side sleeve and right side sleeve corresponding to Fig. 3 Into sewing control data.

Figure 3 illustrates the armhole 16 for right side sleeve part.To the connection linear slit of the left side sleeve part belonged to For, it can specify that independent parameter linear slit section, rank value, pleating value and radius of curvature value.

Another flexible program for generating sewing control data is described according to table 3 below.

Table 3

For garment dimension G1 to G4, extend in length and the table 2b of share and parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 It is identical.Since parameter G4, it is determined that another rank value, it is another total rank value in this example embodiment, in the example of table 3, It is 3.8%.In subsequent garment dimension successive, more than selected garment dimension G4, total linear slit is based on selected garment dimension G4 extends another total rank value.Here, worked using the section rank value for running linear slit section, it is hereinbefore combined Table 2a describes the section rank value.

In order to determine another rank value, in garment dimension G9, pattern model sewing is performed.Garment dimension G9 --- its In start in the example illustrated pattern model sewing --- more than selected garment dimension G4.In principle it is also contemplated that with parameter G9 Different parameters is different from key dimension as other pattern model garment dimension, the pattern model garment dimension.Demonstrating In pattern sewing, it is given in the row of table 3 and is used to illustrate parameter G9, parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 length, i.e., Value 50mm, 150mm, 20mm, 122mm and 200mm.It has been correspondingly made available total seams L542mm.To selecting garment dimension G4 For other pattern model garment dimension G9, the total seams difference between total seams is 450mm, and is being counted automatically In the framework of calculation, it is pointed to evenly distributedly divide total seam length change for the garment dimension G5 to G8 of centre, wherein closely As think that total seams extend the other total rank value of identical respectively.Thus another total rank value 3.8% is drawn.Phase Ground is answered thus to draw the parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 for middle parameter G5 to G8's and also for parameter G10 Each length.

Prescriptive procedure for control data of sewing is considered according to table 3：From certain garment dimension, make successive clothes chi Very little operation linear slit section ratio larger changes in the case of smaller garment dimension.

According to another pattern model sewing in garment dimension G9, thus obtained total rank value and according to selected Garment dimension G4 --- it should be applicable since this selectes garment dimension and obtained another classification is sewed by another pattern model Value --- regulation, automatically generate the linear slit section length shown in table 3.

According to table 4 illustrate again exemplified by generating the section length of parameter linear slit section, generation sewing control data Another flexible program.For garment dimension G1 to G4, linear slit section length is identical with the value in table 2b again.Parameters Linear slit section a1/a2 to the e1/e2 section rank value value that also table 2b above in conjunction is discussed is consistent.

Table 4

Since the first selected garment dimension G4, substitute previously used total rank value 3.4%, determine another classification Value, another total rank value is 3.1% in the example of table 4.Based on it is being determined in being sewed in pattern model, for parameters The section rank value for being worth to correlation of linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 length.Pass through the demonstration carried out to garment dimension G7 Another total rank value is determined in pattern sewing, wherein by compared with the first selected garment dimension G4 450mm, in another demonstration The total seams 493mm obtained herein in pattern garment dimension G7 length increase, by being calculated automatically from another total score Level value is 3.1%, and middle garment dimension G5 and G6 connection linear slit extends another total rank value respectively.Extraly considering In the case of the section rank value of parameter linear slit section, the length of parameter linear slit section changes another total rank value.Show Model pattern garment dimension G7 shows as another selected garment dimension simultaneously.Since another selected garment dimension G7, now really Fixed another total rank value, is value 4.8% in the example of table 4.This in garment dimension G10 by another pattern model sew into OK, wherein obtaining total seams 568mm.Here, being calculated also by way of automatic, obtained according in the sewing of another pattern model , parameters linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 length is, it is specified that go out for the corresponding selected of these parameter linear slit sections Rank value.Again in the case of the section rank value for considering to determine, make linear slit section length herein with another total rank value Extend.

In the sewing process operation of sewing machine 1, control data is generated according to one of aforementioned variant scheme first.Then know Do not go out current garment dimension to be stapled and come subsequently, by means of the sewing control data of the garment dimension identified to two Individual sewing part 12,13 is sutured.Therefore, control device 24 receives identified garment dimension from memory 25 or 28 Corresponding sewing control data, and seam is controlled according to the sewing position sewed in connecting line detected by detection module 26 Thread machine.As described above, adjusting module 29 occurs between two successive parameter linear slit sections a1/a2, b1/b2 ... Sewing is run according to detected sewing position during conversion and according to the sewing control data for being dispatched to the sewing position Parameter is adjusted.

One of two sewing parts for sewing control data by means of generation described above to suture can also be neckline Band (Lisierband).Exemplarily it is explained below according to Fig. 4.Here, it is sewing portion that coat sewing is shown partially Divide 12, and neckline band is shown as sewing part 13.Connection linear slit 32 between the two sewing parts 12,13 is arranged in two Between linear slit boundary point 17a, 17b, the linear slit boundary point shows as linear slit starting point and linear slit terminal according to sewing direction respectively. It is sewing or to be sewed on the right side of coat on the left of coat according to connection linear slit 32, and since linear slit starting point 17a or from linear slit Starting point 17b starts to be sewed and connected linear slit 32.Linear slit 32 is provided with two distribution lines between two linear slit end points 17a, 17b Stitch position P1, P2.Linear slit length between linear slit boundary point 17a and its immediate distribution linear slit position P1 is connection linear slit 32 Total length L 35%.It is the 40% of total length L that two, which are distributed the distance between linear slit position P1, P2, and distributes linear slit position The distance between P2 and connection linear slit 32, adjacent with distribution linear slit position P2 another linear slit boundary point 17b are total length L 25%.

The sewing control data generated by means of generation method is considered, for the corresponding clothes chi according to sewing part 12 Very little Gx specifically sutures neckline band 13.Therefore, carrying out pattern model sewing first, wherein linear slit 32 is divided into multiple in Fig. 4 Not shown in linear slit section.Before or after pattern model sewing, distribution linear slit position P1, P2 are placed in linear slit 32 On.For different garment dimensions, this placement depends on point provided of the linear slit process to optimizing based on experience value Analysis result parameter grade, being provided optimized based on experience value of result or the process to linear slit 32 is provided.Distribute linear slit Position P1, P2 placement with exemplarily by pattern model sew it is carrying out, linear slit 32 is divided into multiple linear slit sections without Close.

In the next step, distribution sewing parameter value is assigned for distribution linear slit position P1, P2.In the example according to Fig. 4 In, the sewing parameter value of distribution is camber line value and/or pleating value and/or rank value.Below according to the example of the distribution to rank value Son describes another generation method.Still, or based on experience value, i.e., based on experience-between successive garment dimension The length change of linear slit 32 is how many between linear slit terminal 17a, 17b, or according to pattern model sewing process-wherein right Different garment dimensions is sewed and connected linear slit 32, and rank value is dispatched to distribute linear slit position P1, P2.For example, can be distribution Linear slit position P1 assigns rank value 3%, and is that distribution linear slit position P2 assigns rank value 4%.

Checked in generation method, at least one distribution linear slit position is located at the linear slit which is generated in the division of linear slit In section.Then, sewing parameter value --- rank value i.e. in the example illustrated --- will be assigned to be dispatched to obtain in division Linear slit section, corresponding linear slit position P1, P2 of distributing be located in linear slit section.Which distribution linear slit position P1, P2 this is based on Carried out in the linear slit section currently considered.In the example according to Fig. 4, distribution linear slit position P1 linear slit portion thereon be present Section obtains rank value 3%, and then obtains rank value 4% in the presence of distribution linear slit position P2 linear slit section thereon.

Sewed according to the already mentioned pattern model for being used to linear slit being divided into linear slit section is started, it is known that for demonstrating The length of the single linear slit section of pattern garment dimension.It is it is possible thereby to true by means of the rank value for being dispatched to each linear slit section Fixed, which kind of length is the linear slit section obtained in division have in the garment dimension different from pattern model garment dimension.

, can be using linear slit 32 as the linear slit portion obtained in division at this by means of the sewing control data so generated Duan Xulie carries out automatic sewing.Here, can by the starting point 17a of linear slit 32 end, can also be by linear slit 32 The starting point 17b of the other end is used as sewing starting point 17, so as to be stitched with corresponding order a1, b1, c1 or with order c1, b1, a1 Thread the linear slit section.

As described above, can be that linear slit section assigns different sewing parameter value, for example, different section rank values or Different wide again of person.

According to the generation method for control data of sewing, length la1, lb1, lc1 percentage length ratio can also be made Example is different from the percent value illustrated above for garment dimension.

In the above-mentioned generation method for sewing control data, respectively to provide total rank value as starting point, above-mentioned In the example of table 1, total rank value is 3.4%.

The generation method of the one alternative control data that is used to sew is described below, the generation method is not providing total rank value It is in this case also feasible.Here, the first benchmark garment dimension is selected first, such as garment dimension G4.Subsequently generate and be used for Benchmark garment dimension G4 sewing control data.Under any circumstance, linear slit section a1 ... length la1 ... belongs to this Sewing control data.Generated for example, sewing control data can be sewed in benchmark garment dimension G4 by the first pattern model, The linear slit section length la1 ... wherein sutured respectively in pattern model sewing is stored in memory module 25.

Then, another benchmark garment dimension, such as garment dimension G9 are selected.Subsequently generate and be used for another benchmark clothes chi Very little G9 sewing control data.The other sewing control data at least also includes the linear slit portion of another benchmark garment dimension G9 The length la1 ... of section.This other sewing control data generated in another benchmark garment dimension G9 can also be by showing Model pattern sewing generation, according to as being described above in association with the first benchmark garment dimension G4.In the first benchmark garment dimension In G4 during generation sewing control data, in addition to linear slit section length la1 ..., linear slit section a1 ... other seams are assigned to Parameter of threading can be changed by providing or calculating, and in contrast to this, the generation sewing control in another benchmark garment dimension G9 During data processed, only also generate and store linear slit section length la1 ....It is other in generation in another benchmark garment dimension G9 Sewing control data when, be dispatched to linear slit section a1 ... other sewing parameters keep it is constant.

The sewing control data generated from described two benchmark garment dimensions, then falls into a trap in computing module 30 Calculate the sewing control data for other garment dimensions and provided by control device 24 for working process.Other clothes Size is those garment dimensions different from benchmark garment dimension G4, G9.Except the situation of the rank value in not specified percentage Can calculate completely down with it is defined, for other garment dimensions linear slit section length la1 ... it is outer, pass through in principle This mode may further specify that other sewing parameter values, such as radius of curvature value, for pleating value or for line The parameter value of power.However, the regulation to other sewing parameter values in addition to linear slit section length la1 ... is not enforceable, and It is that sewing parameter value can also be made to keep constant.If for linear slit section length lb1 in previous example, for benchmark clothes Size G4 obtains value 120mm and obtains value 150mm for another benchmark garment dimension G9, then is calculated and be located at by equidistant partition The linear slit section length lb1 of garment dimension G5 to G8 therebetween, so as to obtain the linear slit portion for these garment dimensions G5 to G8 Segment length lb1126mm, 132mm, 138mm and 144mm.

It is a kind of it is alternative, for sew control data generation method in, for example can also be sewed by pattern model To generate sewing control data for more than two benchmark garment dimension.When using more than two benchmark garment dimension, calculating When being used for the sewing control data of other garment dimensions with regulation, by correspondingly increasing the quantity at control point, it is also achieved The further raising of its garment dimension sewing parameter precision.

Below according to Fig. 5 to 8, describe generation method for generating the sewing control data for performing sewing process and For another example for the operation method for generating linear slit.The component and function described above in association with Fig. 1 to 4 and table 1 to 4 has phase With reference and identical title and no longer describe in detail below.

Fig. 5 diagrammatically show upper dress part 12 with similar with Fig. 3, and it will be stitched with unshowned right side sleeve in Figure 5 Close.It is assigned with three distribution linear slit positions P1, P2 and P3 altogether on the linear slit of dress part and sleeve part in suture.From Sewing datum mark 33 and meanwhile its be also sewing starting point 17 set out, in the garment dimension schematically shown in Figure 5 sewing benchmark Linear slit length between point 33 and distribution linear slit position P1 is the 30% of linear slit total length L.Distribute between linear slit position P1 and P2 Linear slit length be total length L 15%.The linear slit length distributed between linear slit position P2 and P3 is the 30% of total length L.Point It is correspondingly the 25% of total length L with the linear slit length between linear slit position P3 and sewing datum mark 33.As above in association with Fig. 4 phases As should describing, sewing parameter is assigned with for each in distribution linear slit position P1 to P3.Here, can be section classification Value or another sewing parameter, such as times width values or pleating value or radius of curvature value.

In the embodiment according to Fig. 5, datum mark 33 is simultaneously sewing starting point 17.

In order to generate sewing control data, linear slit is divided into multiple lines in pattern model sewing from starting point 17 of sewing Stitch section.As accordingly being described above in association with Fig. 4, corresponding sewing parameter is distributed into defined distribution linear slit position P1 To P3.Equally as accordingly being described above in association with Fig. 3, the allocated sewing parameter is then dispatched to the division in linear slit In obtained linear slit section, at least one distribution linear slit position is located in the linear slit section.Which distribution line this also depends on Seam position P1 to P3 is located in linear slit section currently considering, being obtained in division to carry out.

In the operation sewing of subsequent automation, when between two successive linear slit sections, such as a1/b1, b1/c1, When entering line translation between c1/d1, sewing parameter is automatically adjusted to be dispatched to the parameter value of new linear slit section.When transforming to point During with linear slit section disposed thereon linear slit position P1, such as setting is assigned to distribution linear slit position P1 radius of curvature Value or pleating value.It ensure that, stitched in the region of distribution linear slit position by means of sewing parameter optimal there herein Thread.

As being described above in association with Fig. 4, rank value can also be distributed to distribution linear slit position.With in basic clothes It is starting point that linear slit is for example once divided into multiple linear slit sections by pattern model sewing in size, can be according to by dividing With linear slit position P1 to P3 be dispatched to linear slit section rank value calculate and store for other garment dimensions linear slit section length Degree, and transferred when suturing corresponding garment dimension and use the length.Here, it can use above in association with Fig. 2 and table 1 To the generating process step of 4 descriptions.

In operation is sewed, i.e., after pattern model sewing, based on the determination of the sewing section to being sewed, from sewing benchmark Point 33, which sets out, identifies parameter linear slit section a1 to the conversion between d1.For example, the determination can by measure sewing section come Carry out.

Parameter linear slit section a1 to d1 position and length la1 to ld1 and the sewing parameter assigned are stored in sewing In the memory module 25 of machine 1.

The measurement to section of sewing is carried out also by way of detection module 26.

It is adjusted also by way of adjusting module 29.

Fig. 6 shows the situation for suturing upper dress part 12 and left side sleeve part.Here, with suturing right side sleeve part Point the opposite direction of rotation of situation sewed.

In the embodiment according to Fig. 6, it also disposed on the linear slit between upper dress part 12 and left side sleeve part point Three distribution linear slit positions P1, P2 and P3.Comparison with Fig. 5 can be drawn, according to Fig. 6, these distribution linear slit positions P1, P2 and P3 Online sew on is arranged in and identical relative position in the example according to Fig. 5.This is not enforceable.Distribute linear slit position P1, P2 and P3 other free positioning are also feasible.Line from sewing datum mark 33s up to distributing linear slit position P3 Stitch 25% that length is linear slit total length L.Linear slit length between distribution linear slit position P3 and P2 is the 30% of total length L. The linear slit length distributed between linear slit position P2 and P1 is the 15% of total length L, and in distribution linear slit position P1 and sewing benchmark Length between point 33 is the 30% of total length L again.

Fig. 6 also show a kind of datum mark 33 and weight in the pattern model sewing provided of starting point 17 of sewing of wherein sewing The situation of conjunction.The linear slit section obtained in being divided according to pattern model is relative to distribution linear slit position P1 to P3 position by figure After 6 assign sewing parameter to these linear slit sections, sewed along with Automatic parameter adjustment, as being described above in association with Fig. 5 As.

A kind of left side sleeve according to Fig. 6 and the scheme modification of the suture of upper dress part 12 are illustrated according to Fig. 7 and 8, its Middle starting point 17' moves the 50% of linear slit total length L with reference to sewing datum mark 33.

From sewing datum mark 33s, in the sewing process according to Fig. 7 and 8, distribution linear slit position P1 to P3 with And its parameter assignment is all constant.In sewing, from mobile starting point 17', based on in sewing datum mark 33 and sewing The determination of sewing section between point 17 carries out the sewing parameter conversion between linear slit section.For example, the determination can by by In a little inputting sewing starting point in the schematic illustration of linear slit of the touch on the display screen 34 of sewing machine 1 (referring to Fig. 1) 17 are carried out, and the display screen is connected with the signal of control device 24.

For the starting point 17' selected according to Fig. 7 and 8, obtained when carrying out the determination, starting point 17' is relative to datum mark 33 Move the 50% of linear slit total length L.Compared with the sewing situation according to Fig. 6, when suture left side sleeve, connection linear slit is kept Sewing direction direction of rotation.Obtain, be distribution linear slit position P2 after the 5% of linear slit total length L, in linear slit overall length That degree L is distribution linear slit position P1 after 15% again, and what it is in linear slit total length L is again distribution linear slit position P3 after 55%. The 25% of linear slit total length L is remained between distribution linear slit position P3 and the sewing starting point 17' of movement.Corresponding to the movement of starting point Which it is located at when control data is sewed in generation according to distribution linear slit position P1 to P3 now from mobile sewing starting point 17' In the linear slit section currently considered, to be allocated the assignment of the sewing parameter value to distribution linear slit position P1 to P3.

Fig. 9 is with the sewing parameter situation that diagrammatically show along linear slit optimization for right side sleeve similar with Fig. 3.Show Empirical value is gone out to correspond to along the linear slit extended around edge contour 14 sewing parameter to be set.Pass through direction in fig.9 Arrow 18 shows sewing direction, and the sewing direction extends along the clockwise direction around edge contour 14.Go out from sewing starting point 17 Hair, until shoulder linear slit 36 coat front portion 35 in about until half linear slit length the first linear slit section in, pleating value With a first small value K1, first value is represented by slightly curved bent wave.Corresponding to small pleating value K1, along linear slit Sleeve material compared with the material of front portion 35 with small wide again.Connecting line between sewing starting point 17 and shoulder linear slit 36 Stitching the second half portion has larger pleating value K2, and it is represented by the larger wave of amplitude in fig.9.Just in shoulder linear slit 36 Region in, pleating value can have value 0 in a short linear slit section.In subsequent further process, pleating value has again There is larger value K2, it is loose again that it corresponds to sleeve material larger compared with the material at coat back 37.Substantially with front portion 35 Symmetrically, pleating value transits to less value K1 to middle parameter process from larger value K2.In the coat side opposed with shoulder linear slit In the region of part 38, pleating value is 0.This is also applied for the linear slit region of sewing starting point 17 or so.

Such as exist less pleating value K1 place there is also combine Fig. 3 description, have radius of curvature value " enter greatly To camber line " radius linear slit section 19 and 22.Exist in big pleating value K2 linear slits region " small with radius of curvature value Feed camber line ", i.e., the radius linear slit section 20,21 of the feeding camber line with minor radius.

Figure 9 illustrates parameter flexible program, wherein in the region of shoulder linear slit 36, there is also small feeding arc Line, i.e., corresponding radius of curvature value.Alternatively, herein can also be in the region of shoulder linear slit 36 as being described with reference to Fig. 3 The middle linear slit trend that parameter linear slit section, i.e. straight line with " no feeding camber line " be present.

Except pleating value K and radius of curvature value corresponding with the distribution according to Fig. 9 for example in optimal linear slit trend Distribution outside, one group of control data of completely sewing also includes the explanation of linear slit section length, its from key dimension One group of linear slit section length is set out and drawn for all other garment dimension, i.e. rank value.

By means of the generation described above in association with Fig. 1 to 8 and operation method, a kind of automatic sewing is realized, it is as far as possible Close to the parameter distribution of optimization.Here, method modification different in two kinds of principles is made a distinction：

- above especially in conjunction with rank value and Fig. 4 and the first scheme modification described thereafter, in order to provide reality The operation sewing on border, linear slit is divided into multiple linear slit sections, this point has hereinbefore been stitched with the pattern model provided It is illustrated exemplified by threading.Here, intactly generate sewing control for example linear slit --- in particular for garment dimension --- Data.Example for this is the distribution to rank value, to be calculated by the pattern model garment dimension through sewing provided Go out all other linear slit section length.Initially just by linear slit section sequence together with having been assigned to its seam in operation is sewed Parameter of threading is stored in sewing controller.

That is, linear slit is divided into linear slit section first and then sewing parameter is distributed into linear slit section again.

- alternatively, as such as being described above in association with Fig. 3, sewing parameter has been carried out during sewing is run Distribution.Preparation sewing process, i.e. the pattern model sewing in particular for generation sewing control data can be cancelled.It is here, outstanding It is to be carried out during pattern model is sewed in pattern model sewing in the case where not understanding whole linear slit length accurately Division of the linear slit to linear slit section carry out parametric distribution.

That is, sewing parameter is distributed into linear slit section during linear slit is divided into linear slit section.This is alternative Distribution allocating method for example can be used for radius of curvature value or pleating value or can be used for thread tension value and/or other seams Thread parameter.

Different examples for linear slit to be divided into multiple operation linear slit sections are illustrated according to Figure 10 to 12, it can send out It is raw to carry out running sewing accordingly based on this in pattern model sewing and with then.

Figure 10 is shown is divided into total of three operation linear slit section a1, b1 and c1 by linear slit.Because only three operations Linear slit section a1 to c1 is for using, so only sewing parameter limitedly can be dispatched into these operations linear slit section a1 to c1. This with the diagram according to Fig. 9 similarly figure 10 illustrates.It is total with linear slit from sewing starting point 17s to run linear slit section a1 About the 20% of length L.Operation linear slit section b1 has about the 35% of linear slit total length L and symmetrically prolonged on shoulder linear slit 36 Stretch, the shoulder linear slit is substantially centrally in operation linear slit section b1.Operation linear slit section c1 is linear slit length L residue 45%.

In linear slit section a1 and c1 is run, pleating value K=0 and radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line " be present.Running The pleating value between pleating value K1 and K2, and radius of curvature value " small feeding camber line " in linear slit section b1 be present, it is described to beat Pleat value K1 and K2 describe above in association with Fig. 9.

Figure 11 is shown still from sewing starting point 17s, and linear slit is divided into five operation linear slit sections a1, b1, c1, d1 And e1.Operation linear slit section a1 has the 5% of whole linear slit length L.Subsequent operation linear slit section b1 has linear slit total length L 15%.Subsequent operation linear slit section c1 has the 25% of linear slit total length L.Subsequent operation linear slit section d1 has linear slit The 15% of total length, last operation linear slit section e1 have the 40% of linear slit total length L.In linear slit section a1, pleating value K =0 and it is no feeding camber line in the case of sewed.In linear slit section b1 is run, pleating value is K1 and with radius of curvature Value " roughing feed camber line " is sewed.In linear slit section c1 is run, pleating value is K2 and with radius of curvature value " small feeding arc Line " is sewed.In linear slit section d1 is run, pleating value is carried out for K1 and with radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line " again again Sewing.In linear slit section e1 is run, pleating value K=0 and it is no feeding camber line in the case of sewed.In operation linear slit In section c1, shoulder linear slit 36 is also substantially centered.It is substantially symmetrical relative to each other to run linear slit section b1 and d1.

Figure 12 is shown is divided into seven operation linear slit sections a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1 altogether by linear slit.It is based on These operation linear slit section a1 to g1 can correspondingly more subtly carry out sewing parameter distribution, as also figure 12 illustrates Like that.Run linear slit section a1 to g1 linear slit section length for linear slit total length L 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10% and 40%.Operation linear slit section d1 is also located in the region of shoulder linear slit 36.

Along operation linear slit section a1, d1 and g1, pleating value K=0.Along operation linear slit section b1 and f1, pleating value is K1.Along operation linear slit section c1 and e1, pleating value is K2.Along operation linear slit section a1 and g1, in no feeding camber line In the case of sewed.Along operation linear slit section b1 and f1, sewed with radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".Along fortune Line stitches section c1, d1 and e1, is sewed with radius of curvature value " small feeding camber line ".

Operating personnel can freely provide division of the whole linear slit to operation linear slit section.When linear slit is divided into every time During linear slit section, it is necessary to so provide sewing control data, i.e., it closely corresponds to the parameter of Fig. 9 optimization well as far as possible Distribution.

For generate ensure such case sewing control data possibility scheme hereinbefore especially in combination with Fig. 4 extremely 8 are described.Following table 5 shows rank value, and the rank value is assigned to the operation linear slit section corresponding to this method.

Table 5

Linear slit section	Figure 10	Figure 11	Figure 12
				a1	0	0	0
b1	GW1+GW2	0	0
				c1	GW3	GW1+GW2	GW1
d1	---	GW3	0
				e1	---	0	GW2
f1	---	---	0
				g1	---	---	GW3

Therefore, rank value GW this assignment considers：In the distribution according to Figure 10 to 12, what is accordingly currently considered Linear slit section a1 ... is above in the presence of which distribution linear slit position P1 to P3.

In the distribution according to Figure 10, two distribution linear slit position P1 and P2 are on operation linear slit section b1.Distribute line Position P3 is stitched on operation linear slit section c1.Correspondingly, rank value GW is dispatched to linear slit section, as " Figure 10 " in table 5 As being shown in column.Can also be according to distribution linear slit position P1 to P3 on the linear slit section a1 to c1 accordingly currently considered Position carries out the above-mentioned assignment to pleating value K1, K2 and radius of curvature value.Because two distribution linear slit positions P1 and P2 are located at Run on linear slit section b1, so both not assigned distribution linear slit position P1 pleating value K1 for operation linear slit section b1 or not divided Group distribution linear slit position P2 pleating value K2, but assigned an average pleating value, such as (K1+K2)/2.

In being divided according to Figure 11 linear slit section, two distribution linear slit positions P1 and P2 are all located on linear slit section c1. Distribution linear slit position P3 is located on linear slit section d1.As illustrating in " Figure 11 " column of table 5, rank value GW is dispatched to Linear slit section a1 to e1.

In being divided according to Figure 12 linear slit section, distribution linear slit position P1 is located on linear slit section c1.Distribute linear slit position Put P2 to be located on linear slit section e1, and distribute linear slit position P3 and be located on linear slit section g1.Correspondingly, as " Figure 12 " in table 5 As illustrating in column, rank value GW1, GW2, GW3 assignment are carried out.It is, of course, also possible to substitute rank value GW and assign other Sewing parameter, such as radius of curvature value or pleating value.

If the substantial distance and garment dimension of whole linear slit are known, this can be by providing in machine accordingly Selected in control device, then can carry out sewing parameter assignment online during pattern model is sewed.Below according to Figure 13 Illustrate such case for being used for modification " right side sleeve " and " left side sleeve " again with 14, which describe the scheme of operation method Modification, the operation method are discussed above in conjunction with Fig. 3.It is divided into first from sewing starting point 17s by linear slit Parameter linear slit section 19,20,21,22 and another last linear slit section between parameter linear slit section 22 and 19.With basis The division of sewing parameter section is different in Fig. 3 example, and parameter linear slit section 20 and 21 is combined linear slit section for a combination, The linear slit section of the combination has intactly been assigned radius of curvature value " small charging radius ".From starting point 17 of sewing, to be dispatched to The radius of curvature value of first parameter linear slit section, i.e. the first radius linear slit section 19 --- that is, with " the big charging of radius of curvature value Radius " --- sewed.Once the conversion between two operation linear slit sections not shown in Figure 13 and 14 is no longer being joined Carry out in number seam sections 19 but carried out in subsequent parameter linear slit section, then adjust radius of curvature value to being assigned to The radius of curvature value of this new parameter linear slit section.Because it is expected that operation linear slit section has certain length, in each parameter Border is joined compared with the radius of curvature value-linear slit region for the optimization being shown respectively in Figure 13 and 14 between linear slit section 19 to 22 It is located at front according to sewing direction 18.This ensure that when an operation linear slit section is in two parameter linear slit sections --- for example exist The side of parameter linear slit section 19 1 and parameter linear slit section 20,21 1 sides --- between borderline region after when terminating, it is desirable at it In assign the adjustment of radius of curvature value occur in the linear slit region for needing to carry out such conversion for the sewing parameter of optimization, It is to be adjusted from from radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line " to radius of curvature value " small feeding camber line " in the example

In the control data generation scheme modification for left side sleeve according to Figure 14, linear slit is correspondingly divided into half Footpath linear slit section 19,20,21 and 22, current transition part is widdershins ahead of optimization with reference to the direction of rotation of sewing direction 18 Radius of curvature value-linear slit region.

Sleeve particularly for being sewn in main body-coat sewing part by method as discussed above in the case of not pre- pleat And particularly for being filled in manufacture.

Claims

1. the operation method of the sewing machine (1) for suturing sewing part (12,13) along linear slit, wherein utilizing sewing machine (1) At least one sewing parameter can be provided, the operation method has following steps：

- linear slit is divided into multiple parameters linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22),

- each parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22) assignment sewing parameter value is given,

- from the linear slit starting point (sequence of operation linear slit section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) of 17)s along linear slit Row suture sewing part (12,13),

- wherein, the sequence of operation linear slit section gives a kind of linear slit division with being divided into parameter linear slit section unrelated line Seam division,

- sewing part (12,13) are sutured with defined starting sewing parameter value when suturing beginning,

- when being converted between two successive operation linear slit sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...), if should Convert one be assigned the sewing parameter value different from the sewing parameter value currently set parameter linear slit section (19,20, 23rd, 21,22) in carry out, just automatically adjust sewing parameter value.

2. operation method according to claim 1, it is characterised in that a parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22) With at least two operation linear slit section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) lappings.

3. method according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterised in that relatively will with garment dimension defined, to be stapled Linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22).

4. method according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterised in that be relatively divided into linear slit with linear slit starting point (17) Parameter linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22).

5. method according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterised in that the sewing part (12,13) has the edge of bending Outline segment (14,15), wherein radius of curvature is assigned as sewing parameter.

6. according to the method for claim 5, it is characterised in that also include the sequence of radius of curvature value being assigned, wherein The radius of curvature value described in the first area of linear slit changes into value " less feeding camber line " first.

7. according to the method for claim 5, it is characterised in that also include the sequence of radius of curvature value being assigned, wherein The radius of curvature value described in last region of linear slit changes into value " larger feeding camber line ".

8. according to the method for claim 5, it is characterised in that also include the sequence of radius of curvature value being assigned, wherein The radius of curvature value is adopted between two radius linear slit sections (20,21) with radius of curvature value " less feeding camber line " With radius of curvature value " no feeding camber line ".

9. the sewing machine (1) for performing the method according to any one of claim 1 to 8, including：

- control device (24),

- it is used for the position of parameter linear slit section and the memory module (25) for related sewing parameter value,

- be used to detect the detection module (26) for connecting the corresponding current sewing position in linear slit,

- adjusting module (29), the adjusting module are used for when in two successive operation linear slit sections (a1/a2, b1/b2 ...) Between when converting, if the conversion is in a parameter that the sewing parameter value different from the sewing parameter value currently set is assigned Carried out in linear slit section (19,20,23,21,22), just automatically adjust sewing parameter value.

10. sewing machine according to claim 9, it is characterised in that the memory module (25), which has, is used for parameter line Stitch the length of section (19 ...) and the memory cell (28) of the sewing parameter for being assigned.