200419020 玖、發明說明： 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明係錢將-種溶赚紡布料進行祕與整理。 在本說明書中，名詞、、LY〇CELL布 糸扣種從含有LYOCELL纖 維（p溶劑拉纺纖維，，）的短纖維紗平織或針織成的布料 可包含單編獅_ 種以上的纖維素類型或非纖維素類型的纖維(比方說，棉、黏膠纖維、麻、 聚醋和尼龍）的混紡。此外，這種布料可另外包括不含溶劑拉紡纖維的（比 方說，前輯提賴他纖維_維紗，以及_纖維的混纺。 溶劑拉紡纖維的生產乃是藉著將—纖維素的水溶液擠押通經一吐絲 頭，進入ί，卜凝結浴_ (财法觀作、、溶紡〃法）。因此，贿罵 纖維的另外-種名稱就是、、溶劑拉紡纖維素纖維,,。這樣的—種方法在美國 US-A.4,246,221 N^,b#J ( 氧氮雜環谈N_氧化物；麵〇)物鋪。賴拉紡纖維與其他人造纖 維素纖維不同的是，其他人造纖維是藉著將纖維素製備到一可溶解的化學 何生物裡’然後再將這衍生物的溶液擠押到一浴液裡，其將該掛押物再生 成纖維素纖維；黏膠纖維，包括高強度莫代《纖維類即是以後者方式生產 的〇 【先前技術】 我們都知道，溶劑拉紡纖維在激烈的染色和表面處理加工期間有毛纖 化的傾向，而有許多種方法來應付這個現象。既然有意要避免毛纖化，那 麼’溶劑拉纺布料的染色和整理使用相當地溫和的加工（比S說，平幅布 5 料以軋染方式加工一 J术進仃，而且樹脂表面處理也使用一交聯劑來處理經 木色的布料上’雜護轉纖維在接續的絲加工裡不致毛纖化。 另外一種應付這轉減纖賴毛纖化勸的方法是將這魏維加以 處理’致以除知目#長的突級_末端，這錢出的_末端是在毛纖 化加工的第i段（即所謂、、—次毛纖化〃）所形成的，而這些突出的纖維 曰在布料的表面產生_飛毛的，通常是暗淡的效果，而對布料外觀有不良 &曰另方面，人們又喜歡在毛纖化加工（即所謂、二次毛纖化所形 成的較短的原纖維。這些較短的原纖維產生的—表面效果其特徵為，既 ''乾淨〃（這樣說是因為完全不會產生飛毛的效果），而且在表面上較短的 原纖維給人·種柔軟的手感（我們稱之為、手感柔軟的表面〃卜當這些較 短的原纖維大㈣產生時，那麼，布料表面的柔軟手感會更明顯而這手 感柔軟的表面我們稱之為、桃皮手感表面夕。 以這樣的方式來應付毛纖化傾向的實施例在國際專利W〇 A95/3〇〇43 中有述’且其涉及藉由-配合使用—種麵媒以及加上—種交聯劑（比方 說，N-經甲基樹脂）進行的後處理除去在染色加卫期間所形成的、一次毛 纖化〃的產物。另外一個實施例在國際專利WO_A_97/3〇2〇4中有述，在該 專利中，溶雜纺布料在染色之前細-氧化劑（比錢，次紐納或過 氧化氫）的水性溶液在升高的溫度作前處理。而另一種實施例在英國專利 GB-A-2,314,568中有述，且其涉及使用該染色機本身（比方說―喷射染 色機）’配合使用-強礦物酸（比方說’硫酸）的水溶液對該溶劑拉纺布料 進行長達30分鐘和〇分鐘的處理，然後在簡—機器贿該布料清洗然 後再開始染色。細，這些加卫方法的每_鋪不容易控_產出均勾齊 的結果，而這些加工方法沒有一種曾經用來作大規模的商業運轉。 而應付這個問題的一個不同的方法在國際專利waA_02/刪04中有 述’且其涉及將溶齡紡布料在染色加工的誘使毛纖化步驟之前，進行一 則處理。遠理包含使用—酸或酸供與體（比方說，檸檬酸或氯化錢） 的水性溶賴該树含浸，接著_含浸過的布料在聰到赋的高溫 氣體環境中進行加熱處理，以引發該酸或酸供與_反應。這個方法很有 效，但是，由於需要使用加熱氣體處理，這通常表示要使用—拉幅烤箱， 思個步驟是許多布料加工業者希望避免的。 有-種方法已經成功地經商業運作，其涉及將已經經過渥式加工作業 後處理’以導致毛纖化。在次毛纖V裡產生 的突出的纖維末端在這個後處理中藉著對該布料施給—纖維素酶的水溶液 而除去。而在接續的加卫過程中所產生的怡人的、二次毛纖化〃（舉個例說， 在染色加(如果稍後有的話）或在接續的洗顧及乾燥步驟中使 用迴轉式滾筒機）， 以在該布料的表面產生—種手感錄的表面。 纖維素祕理能夠成功地將、\_次毛纖化，，步驟中所產生的突出的 纖維末端從該布料的表面除去，但是，這樣的處理，就材料成本和加工 間來說’都是很昂貴的。 【發明内容】 本毛月提供了種用以生產—經染色並經整理的溶劑拉纺布料（其有 著一乾淨、手感柔軟的整理）的方法，該方法包含將-賴拉紡布料進行 200419020 -漫式加从理，使職械_作在該树絲面驗毛纖化，紐將該 布料進行染色之前，再給以-滾筒處理，以生成乾淨、手軟的表面； 該方法之舰為，賴使毛纖化的步驟是在高敎氣壓環境下進行的，並 用缓fee的水J·生冷液作為屋式加工液，而該叛酸的溫度乃高於該水溶液 在大氣壓環境下的沸點。 該溶劑拉紡布料最好是以布料捆形式進行加工。另外，也有可能以塊 ;'、或成衣形式加工。在每_種情況裡，所使用的裝備應當能夠經加壓，以 使侍在誘使毛纖化的步驟裡，翻所需要的溫度。最好，使脉誘使毛纖 化步驟與染色步驟裡的是同一套裝備。 可用在誘使毛纖化步驟裡賴備的—個舉例，包含—喷射染色機，在 該染色機裡’-树捆在空氣或液體伽流作動下，經⑽環方式輸送通 經-加工液，該空氣或液體翁流在該布料捆上遂行機械作動。這個動作 是在該布料捆經施壓轉進迫向機器表面時，以騎及扭動力量，以及以摩 t及衝壓力1形式施給的。該同—倾染色機亦可帛來進行接下來的染色 步驟。 最好是使用空氣喷射染色機。適合的市售染色機包括Thies Airstream，200419020 发明 Description of the invention: [Technical field to which the invention belongs] The present invention relates to the secret and finishing of a kind of melt-spun textile fabric. In this specification, nouns, and LYOCELL fabrics are knitted or knitted from short-fiber yarns containing LYOCELL fibers (p-solvent drawn fibers, etc.), and can contain more than one type of cellulose. Or blends of non-cellulosic fibers (for example, cotton, viscose, hemp, polyester and nylon). In addition, this kind of fabric can additionally include solvent-free drawn fibers (for example, the preliminaries mention retali fibers, dimensional yarns, and _ fiber blends. The production of solvent-drawn fibers is made by using cellulose The aqueous solution is squeezed through a spinning head, and enters into the coagulation bath. (Financial law concept, melt spinning method). Therefore, the other name of bribery fiber is, solvent-drawn cellulose fiber, This kind of method is in the US US-A.4,246,221 N ^, b # J (oxygen-nitrogen heterocyclic N-oxide; noodles) surface coating. Laila spinning fiber is different from other artificial cellulose fibers is Other artificial fibers are prepared by dissolving cellulose into a soluble chemical compound, and then squeeze the solution of the derivative into a bath, which regenerates the attachment into cellulose fibers; Glue fibers, including high-strength modal fibers are produced in the latter way. [Previous technology] We all know that solvent-drawn fibers have a tendency to become fibrillated during intense dyeing and surface treatment processes, and there are many Way to cope with this phenomenon. Since it is intentionally avoided Wool fibrillation, then 'solvent-drawn fabric's dyeing and finishing use a fairly mild process (than S said, flat fabric 5 material is processed by pad dyeing method, and the resin surface treatment also uses a cross-linking Agent to treat wood-colored fabrics, 'hybrid fiber conversion will not cause hair fibrillation in subsequent silk processing. Another way to cope with this fiber loss is to treat this Weiwei' to eliminate知 目 # 长 突 级 _ 端 ， The money-out _ end is formed in the i-th stage of the fibrillation process (the so-called ,,-secondary hair fibrillation), and these protruding fibers are said in the cloth The surface of _ hairy, usually has a dull effect, and has a bad appearance on the fabric. On the other hand, people like to process the fibrillation (the so-called, shorter primary fiber formed by secondary wool fibrillation). Fiber. The surface effect of these shorter fibrils is characterized by `` cleanness '' (this is because there is no effect of flying hair at all), and the shorter fibrils on the surface give people Soft feel (we call it a soft-touch surface When these short fibrils are produced, then the soft feel of the cloth surface will be more obvious, and this soft feel surface is called the peach skin feel surface. In this way to deal with the tendency of fibrosis The examples are described in the international patent WOA95 / 30043, and it involves the use of-in combination with-surface media and the addition of-crosslinking agents (for example, N- via methyl resin) The post-treatment removes the product of the primary fibrillated pupae formed during the dyeing and guarding. Another example is described in the international patent WO_A_97 / 3〇204, in which the lyocell fabric is dyed Previously fine-oxidant (aqueous, citrona, or hydrogen peroxide) aqueous solutions were pretreated at elevated temperatures. Another embodiment is described in British Patent GB-A-2,314,568, and it involves the use of this The dyeing machine itself (for example, “jet dyeing machine”) is used in combination-an aqueous solution of strong mineral acid (such as' sulfuric acid) is used to process the solvent-drawn fabric for up to 30 minutes and 0 minutes, and then Wash the fabric and open it again Began to stain. In detail, each of these defense methods is not easy to control and produces the same results, and none of these processing methods have been used for large-scale commercial operations. A different method for coping with this problem is described in International Patent waA_02 / Deleted 04 'and it involves treating the melt-aged textile cloth before the step of inducing hair fibrillation in the dyeing process. The remote principle involves the use of an aqueous solution of an acid or an acid donor (for example, citric acid or chlorinated chloride) to impregnate the tree, and then the impregnated fabric is heat-treated in a high temperature gas environment. The acid or acid supply is initiated. This method is very effective, but because of the need to use heated gas treatment, this usually means using a tenter oven, a step that many fabricators want to avoid. One method has been successfully commercialized, which involves post-processing 'which has been subjected to an iron processing operation to cause fibrillation. The protruding fiber ends generated in the secondary hair fibers V are removed in this post-treatment by applying an aqueous solution of cellulase to the cloth. And the pleasing, secondary hair fibrillation pupae produced in the subsequent guarding process (for example, in the dyeing plus (if later) or using the rotary type in the subsequent washing and drying steps) Roller machine) to produce a kind of feel-recorded surface on the surface of the cloth. The cellulose mystery can successfully fibrillate the fiber, and the protruding fiber ends produced in the step are removed from the surface of the cloth. However, such a treatment, in terms of material cost and processing room, is both Very expensive. [Summary of the Invention] This wool month provides a method for producing-dyeing and finishing solvent-drawn fabrics (which has a clean and soft-touch finishing). The method includes-lyra-woven fabrics 200419020- Diffuse the logic to make the machine work before the tree silk surface is tested for fibrillation, and then dye the cloth, and then give-the drum treatment to generate a clean, soft hand surface; the method of this method is, The step of fibrillating is carried out in a high-pressure atmosphere, and slow J. cold water is used as a house-type processing fluid, and the temperature of the acid is higher than the boiling point of the aqueous solution under atmospheric pressure. The solvent drawn fabric is preferably processed in the form of a cloth bundle. In addition, it is also possible to process in the form of '; or clothing. In each case, the equipment used should be capable of being pressurized so as to turn the required temperature in the step that induces fibrillation. Preferably, the pulse fibrillation step is the same equipment as in the dyeing step. An example that can be used in the step of inducing hair fibrosis is to include a jet dyeing machine in which '-tree bundles are driven by air or liquid gamma current to transport the warp-processing liquid through a loop. , The air or liquid stream flows mechanically on the cloth bundle. This action is given in the form of riding and torsional power, as well as friction and punching force 1 when the cloth bundle is pressed into the machine surface under pressure. The same-tilt dyeing machine can also be used for the subsequent dyeing steps. It is best to use an air jet dyeing machine. Suitable commercially available dyeing machines include Thies Airstream,
Thies Lufl R〇t〇, Hisaka AJ-1，Krantz Aerodye 以及 Then AFS。 當該溶劑拉紡布料為塊料或成衣形式時，那麼，所使用的裝備可為一 傳統的封閉式染色槽，比方說，一迴轉筒式染色機。機器零件的轉動致使 機械力量被施加到在機器裡溼的成衣或塊料，以致使所希望的毛纖化。 使用在誘使毛纖化步驟裡的溼的加工液是一羧酸的水性溶液。這最好 200419020 是一低脂的羧酸，舉個例說，有6或8個碳原子，適合的化合物成份包括 醋酸、蟻酸、檸檬酸和酒石酸。醋酸和蟻酸是較佳的化合物成份。 在該水性溶液裡用作該溼式加工液的羧酸濃度、加工處理的溫度和時 間，就取得該誘使毛纖化步驟裡最佳的結果來說，全都是互為關聯的；隨 著處理溫度增加和處理時間延長，可以使用較低的濃度。通常，為了商業 上和作業上的理由，都希望把處理溫度和處理時間維持在合理的限定裡。 這是在該誘使毛纖化步驟裡，一特別合適的處理溫度在12〇它到14〇它之 間，而在這樣的溫度裡，合適的處理時間在3〇分鐘到8〇分鐘。在這樣的 處理條件下，在舰式加錢_臟濃度在Q 2公克/公制％公克/ 公升之間。 在這樣寬的範圍裡，使用某特定的紐會影響所使用的漠度。就醋酸 來說，特別合適的濃度在2公克/公剌5G公克/公升之間而最好是在 3公克/公升至_U〇公克/公升之間。就蟻酸來說，特別合適的濃度在〇.2 公克/公升到4公克/公升之間’而最好是G.4公克/公升到L2公克/公 升之間。 醋酸和蟻酸使用在本發明的方法中均是非常有效。但是，就排放水的 處理來說，使用蟻酸是較好的，因為它需要的化學氧較少。 整個的處理時間包括-開始期間，在這開始綱裡，該座式加工液經 加熱以將其升溫_希望的絲溫度。錢__壓力仙此增加以使 得能到達該溫度。另外，在處_結束時有-__，此時該澄式加工 液經冷卻，喊麵触清水清洗，再蹄祕步驟加起來 200419020 通常會至少與處理期間本身相當， 分鐘到160分鐘之間。 因此，這個步騾所花的整個時間可在6〇 在這個步雜施蝴龜树上_難佩使摘树表面發生毛 纖化。這毛纖化是屬所謂的 裡，會產峰相#具66空山 一次毛纖化〃的類型，在這樣的毛纖化過程Thies Lufl Root, Hisaka AJ-1, Krantz Aerodye and Then AFS. When the solvent-drawn fabric is in the form of a block or a garment, the equipment used may be a conventional closed dyeing tank, for example, a rotary drum dyeing machine. The rotation of the machine parts causes mechanical forces to be applied to the garments or blocks wet in the machine, causing the desired hairs to fibrillate. The wet processing fluid used in the hair fibrillation step is an aqueous solution of a monocarboxylic acid. It is best that 200419020 is a low-fat carboxylic acid. For example, it has 6 or 8 carbon atoms. Suitable compounds include acetic acid, formic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. Acetic acid and formic acid are preferred compounds. The concentration of carboxylic acid used in the aqueous solution as the wet processing fluid, the temperature and time of the processing, are all interrelated in terms of obtaining the best results in the induced fibrillation step; as Increasing processing temperature and processing time allow lower concentrations to be used. Generally, for commercial and operational reasons, it is desirable to maintain the processing temperature and processing time within reasonable limits. This is a particularly suitable treatment temperature in the induced fibrillation step, which is between 120 ° and 140 °, and at such temperatures, a suitable treatment time is between 30 minutes and 80 minutes. Under such processing conditions, the ship-style money-dirty concentration is between Q 2 g / metric% g / liter. In such a wide range, the use of a particular button will affect the indifference used. In the case of acetic acid, a particularly suitable concentration is between 2 g / L and 5G g / L, preferably between 3 G / L and _O g / L. In the case of formic acid, a particularly suitable concentration is between 0.2 g / L and 4 g / L 'and preferably between G.4 g / L and L2 G / L. Both acetic acid and formic acid are very effective in the method of the invention. However, for the treatment of discharged water, the use of formic acid is better because it requires less chemical oxygen. The entire processing time includes the start period, in which the block processing fluid is heated to raise it to the desired wire temperature. The money __ pressure is increased so that the temperature can be reached. In addition, there is -__ at the end of the _. At this time, the clear processing fluid is cooled, the face is washed with clean water, and the hoof step is added. 200419020 is usually at least equivalent to the processing period itself, between minutes and 160 minutes. Therefore, the entire time spent in this step can be at 60. It is difficult to admire the fibrillation on the surface of the tree. This hair fibrosis belongs to the so-called li, will produce peak phase # 具 66 空 山 The type of hair fibrosis once, in such a hair fibrosis process
看來’有許多纖維末端在紐處理加工期間就被除去了，而所有剩下 的纖維末端在接下來的染色及整理步_經從該布料表面被摩擦掉。通 常’在染色步驟之後所留下的所有的纖維末端全呈不附著的毛卿式其 會在布料滾筒加工步驟期間從該布料表面被除去。 如果溶劑拉紡布料的纺絲先經上聚或經潤滑以遂行平織或針織，那 麼，該布料在經進行本發_加玉之前’可先行—絲或麟作業，然後 再進行本發明的加卫^這個去漿（或精練）作業可為__傳統的作業，在該 作業裡，該布料經以一精練液處理以除去漿料或潤滑劑。 該溶劑拉紡布料的另一種可能的處理是所謂的、、苛性化處理,,，使用一 水性的氫氧化鈉溶液。如果適當的話，這個處理應#在進行本發明的方法 之刚，但在所有的去漿或精練作業之後進行的。進行苛性化處理是為了要 增進該布料在溼的狀態下的柔軟度。應用到溶劑拉紡布料的一苛性化處理 在歐洲專利EP-A-0,749,505中有述。另外，苛性化也增進了該布料的上染 200419020 度，羧酸處理可能會減低布料的上染度，且有另外的效果是該布料的結構 更密實，這可以協助降低在稍後的溼式處理時的任何收縮的傾向。在苛性 化之後，該布料應以熱水再以冷水徹底地清洗以除去殘餘的苛性鈉。 在該布料在誘使毛纖化步驟結束時經洗滌之後，最好是使用該同一裝 備進行乾燥。如果是以布料捆的形式對布料進行加工，這個裝備最好是一 喷射染色機，更好的是，-空氣喷㈣色機。接下來職的只是將染液導 入到機器裡，開動齡，開始染色運轉。這條色運轉可為—傳統的用在 溶劑拉紡布料的染色加工，使用—般的作業條件，以及—般的染料和染液· 配方’包括以直接染料、還原染料、硫化染料，和反應⑽料為底的配方。 對些以/谷劑拉紡纖維與聚酯纖維混紡而成的溶劑拉紡布料來說，該 等聚醋纖維係使用-分散染料染色，而該標準步驟是將這染色作業單獨進 仃，與該溶劑拉紡纖維的染色作業分開進行。在本發明的方法裡，我們發 現在作業過程當林需要再單獨精這個分散染色健，@為它可以與誘 使毛纖化步驟合併進行。結果，在染液裡使用了比起在聚醋布料的分散染 色作業中常見到的更高濃度的紐並不會妨礙到良好的品質，甚至妨礙到· 該布料的聚醋成份的染色。相反地，分散染液的存在並不干擾到該誘使毛 纖化步驟的作用。 在經洗條以除去所有未上染的染料之後，該經染色的布料可經給以傳 的表面處理’包括給以—錄處理。這個處理可在染色與洗滌加工之後 進行而毋需對該布料進行任何乾燥的中間步驟。 這個又，該經染色的布料的表面尚未獲得所希望的乾淨、手感柔 11 200419020 軟的表面。它的外觀仍維持平坦和不均―，可能有—些不附著的織毛。為 了要產生所希望的表面’該布料經給以—滾筒處理，（有時候稱作'拍打處 矿），這_在布料表面增進了所謂 '二次毛纖化的相當短的纖維，在 布料表面械均勻齊—的織毛。這個處理最好是以—乾式處理方式進行， (亦即不加任何液體），且可叹該布料的最後—道的乾燥步驟。 成衣和塊料可以在-迴轉滾筒機裡進行一滾筒處理。如果以布料拥的 形式，則可以在-布馳賴難（比方說，-Bianealani AilO滾筒機） 進行滾筒處理。 對-布料捆進行的滾筒處理通常不超過3〇到5〇分鐘，使用空氣溫度 5〇°C 到 150°C。 皿又 經以本發明的方法生翻乾的賴拉紡布料是—經染色的布料，其有 著乾淨、手感柔軟的表面。在布料表面均勻的、柔軟的絨毛予人一種怡人 的觸感以及怡人的外觀，有時候稱作1面效果％ #這均勻的絨毛達到一 更高的程度時’那麼，這布料表面就會具有、皮手感表矿的特徵。 早制過的’溶雜纺布料可能是平織的布料或是針織的布 在适_情形’本發明的方法最好是以布料捆的形式而不是以展 δ的形式_树進行加工。城的’有需要解織布料進行的所有的前 =理’（比方說’去漿、精練和苛性化處理），躲好是以展财幅形式進 行。如果針織的布料有需要精練’則可以展開平幅形式對該布料進行精練。 =得在處理-針織树的整個加卫過程當中，—直以树捆形式行進變 得是可能，這乃是相當大的作業上的好處。 【實施方式】 藉由下述的實施例，本發明可見-斑。在全部的實施例裡，所處理的 12 200419020 糾伽林料的賴減纖輯為了隱丨公3触產的(註冊商 標）纖維。 實施例1 /谷劑拉、、方布料其含有單位重量Μ（克/平方米）的平織布料， 以l/30s Ne的支數的紗以3χ i的斜紋織法織成。該紗包含從重量的⑽％ 的 TENCEL LYOCELL 纖維。 該布料經以平幅使用-水性精練浴液（其含有_非離子洗麵以及碳 酸鈉）在90°C的溫度進行精練。 該經去漿的布料再經盤成一布料捆，該布料捆經置入到一空氣噴射染 色機裡。該機器事實上為一他心她福红滾筒機，其經公司採用 以使知染色步驟與錢色滾筒加卫步驟可在機·進行，使得該機器 在#行運轉時能更多用途。該機器職計是在高於大氣壓的壓力下使用。 然後，用在該誘使毛纖化步驟裡的處理液經導入到機器裡。它是一水 性溶液，其含有Μ公克/公升醋酸（1〇〇%)以及2 〇公克/公升的A Lube (-種渐劑）。織，賴使毛纖化步驟再在封_顧裡進行，而該布 料捆經輸送通經該處理液，並且受到由該空氣喷射流而產生的機械作用。 在這個步職間，魏雜触每錢2t的速率加綱達13此溫度，並 在高於大氣壓力的壓力下，經維持在該溫度分鐘。織，該處理液再經 冷卻到50°C，然後流出該機器。 然後’该布料拥再在該機器裡經一連串的洗滌： 連續兩次以清水清洗，溫度在40°C，每次洗滌15分鐘；然後，在一水 13 性浴液中進行中和洗滌，該水性浴液含有2公克/公升的蘇打灰、2公克/ 公升的A-Lube以及2公克/公升的Sandoclean SPJ (—種洗滌劑），溫度在 30 C，洗滌時間30分鐘；接著再以所述方式以清水清洗兩次。 然後，該經處理的布料捆再在該同一機器裡，經染色，使用一種熱泳 移盡染法，作業時間為6小時，使用一水性染液，其含有： >(足布料重里的3%的Procion Navy H-EXL染料（Procion為德國Dystar AG註冊商標） 硫酸納60公克/公升 蘇打灰20公克/公升 A-Lube從布料重量的2% 在經染色及洗滌之後，該布料經以一柔軟表面處理液處理。這是一種 水性冷液’含有〇.5公克/公升的HansaSGft27G7 ( 一種财利康柔軟劑）、 1公克/公相Edunme CSA (-種陽離子型柔軟劑），以及丨公克/公升 的醋酸（40%)。軟化作業溫度在贼，作業時間2〇分鐘。 在這個實施例裡上面所述的所有m式加工步驟裡，布料抽在改裝過的 ThiesRototumbler滾筒機裡輸送速度均為每分鐘4〇〇公尺❶ 然後，該柔軟表面處理液經排出，而機器先乾轉以將該布料乾燥，然 後，在該空氣喷射流的推動力之下，對該布料進行一乾的滾筒或拍打動作。 乾燥作業的進打乃是藉著將空氣溫度騎升高到—c，在此同時監測空氣 的水氣含量。當飾驗乾_，簡料咖空氣溫度乾轉2G分鐘， 接者在70 C空氣溫度再乾轉15分鐘，而整個乾轉期間，布料捆輸送速度每 200419020 分鐘900公尺。 在加工結束時，該布料捆經從該機器取出，並經展開成全幅，經檢視 布料的表面。布料經均勻地染成飽滿的海軍藍，其有著均勻整齊的乾淨表 面外觀’以及有著怡人辭感和錄的表面，由於效果顯著，其特徵為有 者桃皮手感"表面。 ίΜΜ2 使用-溶劑拉紡布料其含有單位重量2〇0 gsm (克/平方米）的平織布 料，以1/20sNe的支數的紗以2x1的斜紋織法織成，重覆實施例丄的步驟。 該紗包含從《的_的砸CEL LY()CELL纖維和·量的_的棉纖 維。 這樣經染色的布料簡勻地染餘蘭海軍藍，其表面均勻且乾淨， 且有者手感柔軟的表面、怡人的外觀、充分地表現&具有特雜的、桃皮 手感表面。 溶劑拉紡布料其為一單位重量24〇gsm (克/平方米）的針織布料， 以1/4〇S Ne的支數的紗以雙羅紋織法贼，其含有1GG%的TENeEI^ lyocell 纖維。 該布料經形成一布料捆，並藉由在實施例1中所述的加工步驟處理， 不同的疋，並不進行精練作業。經如此處理過的布料經均勻地染色，其 有著均勻整齊的乾淨表科觀，以及怡人的手㈣軟的表面。 15 使用一種不同的針織布料，重覆實施例3的步驟：_ 一單面針織布料，复 φ 、仿重量17〇gsm (克/平方米），以l/3〇SNe的 支數的紗峨，私有從 去曰 蕙里的97·5/ο的TENCEL LYOCELL纖維，和從 重篁的2.5%的LYCRA f 秩） 卡）彈性纖維（LYC^A為美國杜邦公司註冊商 為紋織料’其單位重量2GGgsm (克/平方米），以Ι/MsNe的支數 的肩成，其含有 1()()%的 TE>TCHLLY(X：EIX_。 一雙羅紋泡泡布料，其單位重量23G gsm (克/平方米），以1/14s Ne 的支數的紗織成，其含有1GG%的TENCELLYOCELL纖維。 所有攻二種針織布料均經均勻地染色，有著均勻整齊的乾淨表面外 觀，以及手感柔軟的表面。 實施例7 本發明的方法經以實驗室規格操作，以檢視在加工過程中的誘使毛纖 化步驟期間，將一聚酯/溶劑拉紡混紡布料的聚酯成份染色的可能性。 該〉谷劑拉紡布料樣品為一平織布料，其經紗支數1/3〇s Ne，其含有1〇〇0/〇 200419020 的TENCELLYOCELL纖維，其緯紗支數1/53sNe，其含有1〇〇%的聚酯纖 維。整體的TENCEL/聚酯混紡比例為70 : 30 (從重量）。 在該布料樣品經精練以去除所有漿料之後，在一實驗室規模的迴轉染 色機，一 Roaches Rotadyer裡經加工。該布料樣品經連同一水性處理液置 入到一染色管理’該水性處理液含有6·4公克/公升醋酸、1〇 myi (毫升 /公升）DS-14 (—種分散劑），以及從布料重量丨〇%的DispersdNavyXF (一種用來將聚酯緯紗染色的分散染料）其處理液對布料比為2〇:丨（從重 $)。然後，該染色管再置入到該機器裡並經加工。該處理液的溫度經設定 在5〇°C5分鐘，再以每分鐘1Λ的速率經升溫到13〇〇c。該處理液在高於 大氣壓的壓力下經維持在13(rc溫度45分鐘，然後再經冷卻到8〇〇c。 然後，該布料樣品經從該染色管取出，以清水澈底清洗，然後再回到 該染色管，以便將TENCEL纖維成份染色。所使用的水性染色液含有從布 料重量1%的Procion Navy H_EXL、4〇公克/公升的硫酸鈉，以及3公克 /公升的Ludisol (—種氧化劑）。其處理液對布料比為2〇 ••卜 該布料樣品在Roaches Rotadyer迴轉染色機中，使用一種熱泳移盡染 法經染色，在該染色法裡，該布料樣品首先在染液輔助劑中經設定在5(TC 溫度5分鐘，然後再將染料加入到染液中。接著，該染液的溫度經以每分 鐘U°C的速率升高到95°C，而該處理液經維持在95°C30分鐘，然後經冷 部到80。(：溫度。然後，以15公克/公升的濃度將碳酸鈉加到染液裡，並且 繼續將染液溫度維持在8(rc45分鐘。 該經染色的布料樣品經從該染色管取出，以清水清洗，然後再在_含 17 有a克/ a升Sandopur SR (—種洗滌劑）的水性溶液裡在95〇c溫度下 H20刀鐘’然後再以清水清洗，然後置空氣中讓它乾燥。 該乾燥的布料樣本經在含有從布料重量的触幼滅27Ό7和3公克 /a升的Sandaeid (經緩衝的醋酸）的水性柔軟液巾經柔化。該柔軟液在It appears that 'many fiber ends are removed during the knitting process, and all the remaining fiber ends are rubbed off from the surface of the cloth in the subsequent dyeing and finishing steps. Generally, all of the fiber ends left after the dyeing step are non-adherent Mao Qing, which will be removed from the surface of the cloth during the cloth drum processing step. If the spinning of the solvent-drawn fabric is first polymerized or lubricated to perform plain weaving or knitting, then the fabric can be first subjected to silk or lin before the hair_Jade is added, and then the process of the present invention Wei ^ This desizing (or scouring) operation can be a traditional operation, in which the fabric is treated with a scouring solution to remove slurry or lubricant. Another possible treatment of the solvent-drawn fabric is a so-called, causticizing treatment, which uses an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. If appropriate, this process should be performed immediately after performing the method of the present invention, but after all desizing or scouring operations. The causticizing treatment is performed to improve the softness of the cloth in a wet state. A causticizing treatment applied to solvent drawn fabrics is described in European Patent EP-A-0,749,505. In addition, the causticization also improved the dyeing of the cloth by 200419020 degrees. The carboxylic acid treatment may reduce the dyeing degree of the cloth, and there is another effect that the cloth has a denser structure, which can help reduce the wet type in the later Any tendency to shrink during processing. After causticizing, the cloth should be washed thoroughly with hot water and then cold water to remove residual caustic soda. After the cloth has been washed at the end of the inducement of fibrillation step, it is preferable to use the same device for drying. If the cloth is processed in the form of a cloth bundle, this equipment is preferably a jet dyeing machine, and more preferably, an air jet dyeing machine. The next job is to introduce the dye solution into the machine, start the age, and start the dyeing operation. This color operation can be-the traditional dyeing process used in solvent drawn fabrics, using-the general operating conditions, and-the general dyes and dyes · formula 'including direct dyes, vat dyes, sulfur dyes, and reaction Seasoning-based formula. For solvent-drawn fabrics blended with / cereal-drawn fibers and polyester fibers, these polyester fibers are dyed with disperse dyes, and the standard step is to separate this dyeing operation with The dyeing operation of the solvent drawn fiber is performed separately. In the method of the present invention, we found that when the forest needs to refine the disperse dyeing dye separately, @ 为 为 It can be combined with the step of inducing fibrosis. As a result, the use of a higher concentration of button in the dyeing liquid than that commonly used in the disperse dyeing of polyacetate cloth does not hinder good quality and even the dyeing of the polyacetate component of the cloth. Conversely, the presence of the disperse dyeing solution does not interfere with the effect of the hair fibrillation step. After washing the strips to remove all undyed dyes, the dyed cloth may be subjected to a surface treatment ' including a coating treatment. This treatment can be performed after the dyeing and washing process without any intermediate step of drying the cloth. Again, the surface of the dyed cloth has not yet obtained the desired clean, soft-touch surface. 11 200419020 Its appearance remains flat and uneven-there may be some non-attached weaving hairs. In order to produce the desired surface, the cloth is given a roller treatment (sometimes referred to as 'beating place mine'), which is a rather short fiber that promotes the so-called 'secondary fibrillation' on the cloth surface. The surface is evenly woven-the wool. This treatment is best performed in a dry process (ie, without any liquid), and the final drying step of the fabric is lamentable. The garments and blocks can be processed in a drum in a rotary drum machine. If it is in the form of a cloth holder, it can be processed in a cloth (for example, a Bianealani AilO roller). The roller treatment of the-cloth bundle is usually not more than 30 to 50 minutes, using an air temperature of 50 ° C to 150 ° C. The dish was dried and lya-woven fabric which is dried by the method of the present invention is a dyed fabric which has a clean and soft surface. The uniform and soft fluff on the surface of the cloth gives a pleasant touch and a pleasant appearance, sometimes called 1 surface effect% #When the uniform fluff reaches a higher degree, then the surface of the cloth is Will have the characteristics of skin and skin feel. The pre-made 'solvent-blended fabrics may be plain-woven fabrics or knitted fabrics, where appropriate' The method of the present invention is preferably processed in the form of a cloth bundle rather than in the form of a spreading tree. The city ’s “all the fabrics that need to be woven” (for example, “desizing, refining, and causticizing”), and hide it in the form of exhibition money. If the knitted fabric needs to be refined ', the fabric can be refined in a flat web. = It has to be in the whole process of guarding-knitting trees, it is possible to travel straight in the form of bales, which is a considerable operational advantage. [Embodiment] The present invention is visible by the following examples. In all the examples, the processing of the 12 200419020 Jiajialin material is based on the (registered trademark) fibers that have been triggered. Example 1 The cereal fabric is made of plain woven fabric with a unit weight of M (g / m 2), and a yarn of 1/30 s Ne is woven with a 3 × i twill weave. The yarn contains TENCEL LYOCELL fibers from ⑽% by weight. The fabric was scoured at a temperature of 90 ° C using a flat-width water-based scouring bath (containing non-ionic face wash and sodium carbonate). The desized fabric is then wound into a cloth bundle, which is placed in an air jet dyeing machine. This machine is in fact a fancy red drum machine, which has been adopted by the company so that the dyeing step and the money drum guarding step can be performed on-site. This makes the machine more useful when it is running in line #. The machine is used at pressures above atmospheric pressure. Then, the treatment liquid used in the step to induce fibrillation is introduced into the machine. It is a mono-aqueous solution containing Mg / L of acetic acid (100%) and 20g / L of A Lube (a grading agent). Weaving relies on the fibrillation step to be carried out in Feng Guli, and the cloth bundle is conveyed through the treatment liquid, and is subjected to a mechanical action caused by the air jet. During this step, Wei Zaqi touched the temperature at a rate of 2t per dollar plus 13 to this temperature, and was maintained at this temperature for minutes at a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure. Weaving, the treatment liquid was cooled to 50 ° C, and then flowed out of the machine. Then, the cloth was washed in the machine in a series of washings: washed twice with fresh water at 40 ° C for 15 minutes each; then, neutralized and washed in a water-based 13 bath, the Aqueous bath contains 2 g / L of soda ash, 2 g / L of A-Lube, and 2 g / L of Sandoclean SPJ (a detergent) at a temperature of 30 C and a wash time of 30 minutes; Wash with water twice. Then, the treated cloth bundle is dyed again in the same machine, using a heat transfer dyeing method, the operation time is 6 hours, using an aqueous dye solution, which contains: (> 3 % Procion Navy H-EXL dye (Procion is a registered trademark of Dystar AG, Germany) Sodium sulfate 60 g / L soda ash 20 g / L A-Lube From 2% of fabric weight After dyeing and washing, the fabric is Soft surface treatment liquid treatment. This is an aqueous cold liquid 'containing 0.5 g / L of HansaSGft27G7 (a Cailicang softener), 1 g / phase Edunme CSA (a cationic softener), and 丨 g / Litre of acetic acid (40%). The softening operation temperature is at the thief and the operation time is 20 minutes. In all the m-type processing steps described above in this example, the cloth is pumped in the modified ThiesRototumbler roller machine at a conveying speed of 400 meters per minute❶ Then, the soft surface treatment liquid is discharged, and the machine is first dried to dry the cloth, and then, under the driving force of the air jet, the cloth is dried. Roller or slap action. The advancement of drying operation is to increase the air temperature to -c, while monitoring the moisture content of the air at the same time. When the decoration is checked, the air temperature of the dry coffee is dried for 2G minutes. The receiver was dried for another 15 minutes at 70 C air temperature, and during the dry rotation period, the cloth bundle conveying speed was 900 meters per 200419020 minutes. At the end of processing, the cloth bundle was taken out of the machine and expanded into a full width. The surface of the fabric is inspected. The fabric is uniformly dyed into a full navy blue, which has a uniform and clean surface appearance, and a surface that is pleasant and reminiscent. Due to the significant effect, it is characterized by the feel of the peach skin. Surface. ΜΜ2 Use-solvent drawn fabric which contains a plain weave fabric with a unit weight of 200 gsm (grams per square meter), woven with a yarn of 1 / 20sNe in a 2x1 twill weave, repeating the examples The step of 。. The yarn contains CEL CEL LY () CELL fiber and the amount of _ cotton fiber. In this way, the dyed cloth is evenly dyed with Yulan Navy Blue, and its surface is uniform and clean. Soft surface, Human appearance, full performance & has a special hybrid, peach skin feel surface. Solvent drawn fabric is a knitted fabric with a unit weight of 24 gsm (g / m2), supported by 1/40 Ne. The number of yarns is a double rib weave, which contains 1GG% TEneEI ^ lyocell fiber. The cloth is formed into a cloth bundle and processed by the processing steps described in Example 1. Different reeds are not performed. Sophisticated work. The cloth thus treated is evenly dyed, and it has a clean and neat appearance, and a pleasant soft surface. 15 Using a different knitted fabric, repeat the steps of Example 3: _ A single-sided knitted fabric, with a diameter of φ and a simulated weight of 170 gsm (g / m 2), with a yarn count of 1 / 3SNe , Privately owned TENCEL LYOCELL fiber of 97.5 / ο from Lili, and 2.5% LYCRA f-rank from heavy weight card) elastic fiber (LYC ^ A is a registrar of the United States DuPont Company for texture weaving 'its unit weight 2GGgsm (g / m2), with shoulders of 1 / MsNe, it contains 1 () ()% TE > TCHLLY (X: EIX_. A pair of ribbed bubble cloth, its unit weight is 23G gsm (g / M2), woven with 1 / 14s Ne yarn, which contains 1GG% TENCELLYOCELL fiber. All two knitted fabrics are evenly dyed, have a uniform and clean surface appearance, and a soft-feel surface Example 7 The method of the present invention was operated in a laboratory specification to examine the possibility of dyeing the polyester component of a polyester / solvent drawn blend fabric during the step of inducing fibrillation during processing. The 〉 The sample of grain drawn fabric is a plain woven fabric with a warp count of 1/3. s Ne, which contains 1000 / 〇200419020 TENCELLYOCELL fibers, whose weft count is 1/53 sNe, which contains 100% polyester fibers. The overall TENCEL / polyester blend ratio is 70: 30 (from weight ). After the fabric sample is refined to remove all slurry, it is processed in a laboratory-scale rotary dyeing machine, a Roaches Rotadyer. The fabric sample is placed in a dyeing management 'water-based' solution with the same aqueous treatment solution. The treatment solution contains 6.4 g / L of acetic acid, 10myi (ml / L) DS-14 (a dispersant), and DispersdNavyXF (a disperse dye used to dye polyester weft yarns) from the weight of the fabric. ) Its treatment liquid to cloth ratio is 20: 丨 (from weight $). Then, the dyeing tube is put into the machine and processed. The temperature of the treatment liquid is set at 50 ° C for 5 minutes, and then The rate of 1Λmin was raised to 1300c per minute. The treatment liquid was maintained at a temperature of 13 ° C under a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure, and then cooled to 800c. Then, the cloth sample was passed through the Remove the staining tube, rinse with clear water, and then Return to the dyeing tube in order to dye the TENCEL fiber component. The aqueous dyeing solution used contains 1% Procion Navy H_EXL from the weight of the cloth, 40 g / L of sodium sulfate, and 3 g / L of Ludisol (an oxidant ). The ratio of the treatment solution to the cloth is 20 °. The cloth sample is dyed in a Roaches Rotadyer rotary dyeing machine using a heat transfer method, in which the cloth sample is first assisted by the dyeing solution. The reagent was set at 5 ° C for 5 minutes, and then the dye was added to the dye solution. Next, the temperature of the dye solution was raised to 95 ° C at a rate of U ° C per minute, and the treatment solution was maintained at 95 ° C for 30 minutes, and then passed to the cold section to 80 ° C. (: Temperature. Then, add sodium carbonate to the dyeing solution at a concentration of 15 g / liter, and continue to maintain the temperature of the dyeing solution at 8 (rc 45 minutes.) The dyed cloth sample is taken out of the dyeing tube to clean water Rinse, then in an aqueous solution containing 17 g / a sandopur SR (a detergent) at a temperature of 95 ° C for 20 minutes, then rinse with water, then let it dry in air. The dried cloth sample was softened with an aqueous soft liquid towel containing Sandaeid (buffered acetic acid) at 27Ό7 and 3 g / a liter from the weight of the cloth. The soft liquid was
Tupesa成衣染色機中，在贼的溫度經施給到該布料樣本2〇分鐘。然 後’該布胁在-成衣滾筒乾賴裡，以贼溫度雌筒麟％分鐘，繼 之以20分鐘的冷卻期間。 該布料樣核均勻轉成—料藍，且有著乾淨、钱錄的表面。 該手感柔軟的表面並不如前述幾個實施顺所述的前規模試驗中所達到 的表面卩麼的顯著❻疋卻足以證明將叛酸處理結合將該布料的聚醋 的分散染色加工是可行的。 實施例8 使用-平織溶劑拉纺布料重覆實施例7的步驟，該布料的經紗支數 l/30sN,^tt 65〇/〇„ tencelly〇cell 造纖維’鱗紗支數1/S7sNe，含1〇〇%的聚醋纖維。整體的混纺比例為牝 TENCELLYOCELL : 25轉人猶維：29賴（從重量比）。 在步驟的最後，該溶劑拉紡布料經以依照實施例7的布料加工的同樣 標準加以染色並行表面處理。 實施例9 心㈣拉紡布料其含有單位重量·㈣（克/平方米）的針織布料， 200419020 以100%的TENCELLYOCELL纖維以雙羅紋織法織成。該布料經以布料捆 形式置入到一小型試驗用液體喷射染色機裡（一 Colora牌機器）。該機器經 設計以高於大氣壓的壓力操作。 接著，用在誘使毛纖化步驟裡的處理液經導入到該機器裡。這處理液 是一水性溶液，其包含〇·8公克/公升蟻酸（100%)和4公克/公升A-Lube (一種潤滑劑）。這處理液的溫度設定在50°C。然後，該機器再在封閉的條 件運轉，而該布料捆藉著處理液的喷射流輸送通經該機器。在這個步驟期 間，該處理液經以每分鐘1.5。〇的速率經加熱到達130。(：溫度，並且在高於 大氣壓的壓力下，經維持在該溫度45分鐘。然後，該處理液再經冷卻到5〇 °C，然後經流出該機器。 然後，該布料捆在該同一喷射染色機裡經清洗、染色以及施以一柔軟 表面處理，使用如實施例i中所述的同樣的配方和條件。 在這-連串的作業結束時，該布料捆經從該噴射染色機取出，並置入 到實施例1巾提$彳的經改裝的R。她她匕機裡如肖實施例1中所 述的進行乾式拍打作業。 在從該RototumWer ;袞筒機取出之後，該布料經展開成平幅並加以檢 視。結果’布料經均勻地染色，有著均句整齊的乾淨表面外觀 ，以及怡人 的手感柔軟的表面。In the Tupesa garment dyeing machine, the cloth sample was applied at the temperature of the thief for 20 minutes. Then the cloth was threatened at the ready-made drum, dried at the thief temperature and then cooled down for 20 minutes. The cloth-like nucleus is evenly transformed into a material blue, and has a clean, money-recorded surface. This soft-feeling surface is not as significant as the surface achieved in the previous scale tests described in the previous implementations, but it is enough to prove that combining the acid treatment with the dispersion dyeing of the polyester of the cloth is feasible . Example 8 The process of Example 7 was repeated using a plain weave solvent-drawn fabric. The warp count of the fabric was l / 30sN, ^ tt 65〇 / 〇 tencelly〇cell fiber counts / s7sNe, including 100% polyester fiber. The overall blending ratio is 牝 TENCELLYOCELL: 25 turn people Yuwei: 29 Lai (from weight ratio). At the end of the step, the solvent-drawn fabric was processed by the cloth according to Example 7. The same standard was used for dyeing and surface treatment. Example 9 Cardiopulmonary fabric contains knitted fabric of unit weight · 重量 (g / m2), 200419020 100% TENCELLYOCELL fiber is woven by double rib weaving. The fabric It was put in the form of a cloth bundle into a small test liquid jet dyeing machine (a Colora brand machine). The machine was designed to operate at a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure. Next, the treatment liquid used in the step of inducing fibrosis It was introduced into the machine. The treatment liquid was an aqueous solution containing 0.8 g / L of formic acid (100%) and 4 g / L of A-Lube (a lubricant). The temperature of the treatment liquid was set at 50 ° C. The machine then It operates in a closed condition, and the cloth bundle is conveyed through the machine by a jet of treatment liquid. During this step, the treatment liquid is heated to 130 ° C at a rate of 1.5.0 per minute (: temperature, and at At a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure, the temperature was maintained at that temperature for 45 minutes. Then, the treatment liquid was cooled to 50 ° C, and then flowed out of the machine. Then, the cloth was washed in the same jet dyeing machine, Dyeing and applying a soft surface treatment, using the same formula and conditions as described in Example i. At the end of this series of operations, the cloth bundle is taken out of the jet dyeing machine and placed into the implementation Example 1 Modified R with a towel. She performs dry tapping operation as described in Example 1 in her machine. After taking out from the RototumWer; the machine is unrolled into a flat web and applied. Inspection. The result 'The fabric is evenly dyed, has a neat and clean surface appearance, and a pleasant soft surface.