RU2806365C1 - Composition of cleanser with lipid fraction from larvae of black soldier fly hermetia illucens - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to products intended for cleansing and washing the skin. The cleanser contains the following ratio of components, wt.%: potassium salts of stearic acid — 10.50–40.00, potassium salts of coconut oil fatty acids — 5.20–20.50, stearic acid — 1.50–6.50, palmitic acid — 1.20–5.50, glycerol — 7.50–35.00, component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae — 0.10–1.00, fragrance — 0.50–1.50, the rest is drinking water.

EFFECT: invention provides cleansing and antiseptic properties of the product, its high foaming ability and the ability to reduce skin oiliness.

2 cl, 1 tbl, 3 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and concerns products intended for cleansing and washing the skin.

Cleansers are an integral part of daily skin care and an important step in preparing the skin for applying a cream, serum or other cosmetic product.

Modern skin cleansers accomplish several important goals, such as good lather, effective cleansing and easy rinsing.

Most cleansing and washing compositions contain various combinations of synthetic surfactants, water-soluble moisturizers, preservatives and perfume composition. Some cosmetics do not always effectively remove dirt and makeup from the skin, require prolonged rinsing, and can also cause dryness and irritation of the facial skin.

A known foam for washing contains coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamides, PEG-400 oleate, emulsion waxes, glycerol monostearate, cosmetic stearin, coconut oil, olive oil, glycerin, triethanolamine, urea, sodium lauryl sulfate, Trilon B, bronitol, paraform, fragrance and water (RU 2111739 C1, published on May 27, 1998).

The disadvantage of this product is that the foam for washing contains a prohibited preservative - paraform. Synthetic surfactant - sodium lauryl sulfate and bronitol as a preservative can cause irritation to the skin.

The closest composition to the proposed one is a foam cleanser containing glycerin, plant components and acids, as well as fragrance and water, while it contains plant components in the form of extracts of Scutellaria Baikal root, centella asiatica leaves, knotweed, green tea leaves, licorice root, chamomile flowers, rosemary leaves, bamboo, pine needles, cypress leaves, enantia bark, huttunia, thuja, sheep tinder fungus, and acids - in the form of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, citric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleanolic acid and caprylic acid, and additionally contains diglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, sobitol, lauryl betaine, 1,2-hexanediol and ethyl hexanediol, potassium hydroxide, sodium methylcocayl taurate, benzyl glycol, sodium chloride, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, disodium salt, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and raspberry ketone (RU 2755199 C1, published 09.14.2021). This composition was adopted as a prototype.

The disadvantage of this product is its lack of effectiveness in the process of cleansing the skin. The complex of extracts may cause an allergenic effect. The composition of the product does not create a comfortable foam for removing impurities from the skin.

Recently, in personal care products there has been a trend towards the development of cleansers based on natural and innovative ingredients that provide improved consumer properties. Oily and combination skin is considered the most difficult to care for. Not all cleansers are suitable for this skin type.

The technical problem of the present invention is the development of a cosmetic wash with high foaming, cleansing ability and intended for people with oily and combination skin.

The technical result achieved by the invention is to ensure the cleansing and antiseptic properties of the product, its high foaming ability and the ability to reduce skin oiliness.

The technical result is achieved by the composition of the proposed composition of the cleanser, which contains stearic and palmitic acids, glycerin, fragrance and drinking water, while, according to the invention, it additionally contains potassium salts of stearic acid, potassium salts of fatty acids of coconut oil and a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae, with the following ratio of components, wt. %:.

potassium salts of stearic acid 10.50÷40.00 Potassium salts of coconut oil fatty acids 5.20÷20.50 stearic acid 1.50÷6.50 palmitic acid 1.20÷5.50 glycerol 7.50÷35.00 component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae 0.10÷1.00 fragrance 0.50÷1.50 drinking water rest

The biomass of black soldier fly larvae ( Hermetia illucens ) can be considered as an innovative source for obtaining compounds with high biological activity due to the development of biotechnology for processing organic substances used as a substrate for growing insects. In addition to the use of H. illucens larvae as an ingredient for feed, the insect serves as a raw material for the production of biopolymers of chitin (RU 2680691, published on February 25, 2019), chitosan (RU 2763174, published on December 28, 2021), and their melanin complexes (RU 2728458, published . 07/29/2020), as well as lipid compounds with high added value with potential application in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. A characteristic feature of the lipid fraction of the biomass of H. illucens larvae is a high concentration of saturated fatty acids, mainly lauric acid.

In terms of lauric acid content , H. illucens fat is similar to coconut, palm and palm kernel oils. Due to its antibacterial and antiviral properties, lauric acid is used in cosmetics, creams, and detergents. In addition, the fat of H. illucens larvae contains other essential fatty acids such as oleic, palmitic and linoleic acids, which are key elements of human skin, mainly in barrier function.

The new composition of the cleanser is based on saponified components of plant origin (potassium salt of stearic acid, potassium salt of fatty acids of coconut oil) and a unique ingredient representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae.

To obtain the product, the following main raw materials were used.

The detergent base of the cleanser consists of components of plant origin (potassium salts of stearic acid, potassium salts of fatty acids of coconut oil).

Potassium salts of stearic acid - the component is formed as a result of saponification of stearic acid with a solution of potassium hydroxide. It is a valuable raw material for the production of soap, hand creams, and shaving foam. The ingredient has good solubility in warm water with the formation of a stable fine-grained foam and a high detergent effect (Technology for processing fats. N.S. Arutyunyan, E.P. Kornena, A.I. Yanova et al. M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1998, p. 359).

Potassium salts of coconut oil fatty acids - a component formed as a result of saponification of coconut oil with a solution of potassium hydroxide. The ingredient has good solubility in cold water with the formation of abundant coarse foam (Technology for processing fats. N.S. Arutyunyan, E.P. Kornena, A.I. Yanova et al. M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1998, p. 368).

Stearic and palmitic acids are widely distributed in natural oils. Used as a structure-forming and emulsifying component, emollient (Encyclopedia of ingredients for cosmetics and perfumes. School of cosmetic chemists. Moscow, 2015, pp. 259, 314).

Glycerin is used as a caring component; the product is made from natural sources (palm oil, coconut oil and other vegetable oils). Prevents unwanted degreasing and dry skin. Softens and moisturizes the skin (Encyclopedia of ingredients for cosmetics and perfumes. School of cosmetic chemists. Moscow, 2015, p. 92).

Entomological fat is used as a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae. Fat is a product obtained by processing the biomass of H. illucens insects grown on fruit, vegetable and cereal mixtures. The content of lauric acid reaches up to 40% (Sadykova E.O., Shumakova A.A., Shestakova S., Tyshko N.V. Nutritional and biological value of the biomass of Hermetia illucens larvae. Nutrition issues. 2021. T. 90, No. 2, pp. 73 - 82). The fatty acid profile of H. illucens is known to be influenced by the substrate on which the insects are reared. According to our studies, the maximum content of lauric acid in H. illucens larvae reached 59%. Lauric acid is found in many foods of plant and animal origin. It has pronounced antimicrobial properties, especially against gram-positive bacteria, in particular against pneumococci and streptococci, which makes it promising for use for medical purposes. Used as an antiseptic, cleansing and foaming additive for care products for oily and combination skin. One of the properties of lauric acid is the drying of skin prone to increased fat content (Bastrakov A.I., Dontsov A.E., Ushakova N.A. Black soldier fly Hermetia illucens under conditions of artificial breeding is a renewable source of melanin-chitosan complex. Izvestia Ufa Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Number: 4, 201, pp. 77 - 79; Chemical Encyclopedia / Editorial Board: Knunyants I. L. et al. - M.: "Soviet Encyclopedia", 1990, - T. 2 (Daf-Med ), p. 1152).

Entomological fat was obtained in the following way: food substrates were inoculated with a uniform 10-day-old H. illucens larvae. The processing cycle lasted from 7 to 10 days, after which the larvae were sent for separation from the remaining substrate. Pure biomass was dried in an infrared dryer to a moisture content of 5-7%. Part of the dried biomass was passed through a screw oil press to obtain a partially defatted feed additive and entomological fat (Sokolov I., Abalakin I., Bastrakov A. Properties of feed additives from larval biomass depending on the substrate. Compound feed. Number: 10, 2020, p. 41 - 43).

A mixture of synthetic and natural fragrant substances is used as a fragrance in the composition of the cleanser. The fragrance in the claimed composition provides a pleasant aroma and comfort during the process of cleansing the skin.

A series of experimental cooking tests were carried out to prepare a cleanser with a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae. Examples of compositions are shown in Table 1.

The cleanser has been tested in an accredited testing laboratory. Tests have shown the absence of general toxic, irritating and sensitizing effects.

The results of testing the prepared cleanser for microbial purity showed the complete absence of bacteria, yeast and mold fungi.

The quality of the resulting cleanser complies with TR CU 009/2011 “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products.”

Examples of cleanser compositions with a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae are given in Table 1.

Table 1 Name of components Content, wt.% Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Potassium salts of stearic acid 10.50 14.70 40.00 Potassium salts of coconut oil fatty acids 20.50 7.60 5.20 Glycerol 7.50 13.70 35.00 Stearic acid 6.50 2.50 1.50 Palmitic acid 5.50 2.10 1.20 Component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae 0.10 0.55 1.00 Fragrance 0.50 1.00 1.50 Drinking water up to 100.00 up to 100.00 up to 100.00 Test results The name of indicators Appearance Homogeneous creamy mass Homogeneous creamy mass Homogeneous creamy mass Color Cream Cream Cream Smell A fantasy direction with fresh, floral notes A fantasy direction with fresh, floral notes A fantasy direction with fresh, floral notes pH value 9.9 10.0 9.8 Microbiological indicators: Total amount of mesophilic aerobic
and facultative anaerobic microorganisms,
CFU/1 g (ml) less than 1x10 ¹ less than 1x10 ¹ less than 1x10 ¹ Candida albicans, KOE/0.1 g (ml) absence absence absence Escherichia coli, KOE/0.1 g (ml) absence absence absence Staphylococcus aureus, KOE/0.1 g (ml) absence absence absence Pseudomonas aeruginosa, KOE/0.1 g (ml) absence absence absence Foam number, mm 97 89 80

Exceeding the minimum specified limits does not allow obtaining a cleanser composition with the declared properties, and exceeding the specified limits leads to compositions with a heterogeneous consistency, which makes its further use unmanufacturable.

In order to evaluate the antibacterial properties of the cleanser, microbiological studies were carried out on samples of facial skin microflora obtained by rinsing. The study was conducted with the participation of volunteers. The swabs were collected before and after washing. The samples were inoculated on chocolate agar and incubated at 37±2.5°C for 48 hours.

After the end of incubation, gram-positive coccal forms were observed. It was found that the total number of colonies decreased by 3 times after a single use of the cosmetic product.

A microbiological study of compositions 1-3 listed in Table 1 showed that the use of a cosmetic cleanser with a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae reduces the number of gram-positive coccal bacteria on the facial skin of volunteers, which confirms its antiseptic properties.

Clinical testing (dermatological testing) of a cleanser with a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae was also carried out.

Female volunteers aged 24-62 years took part in the testing. All participants had skin characterized as oily or combination.

The effectiveness of cleansing was assessed by measuring sebum levels before and after using the cleanser. In addition, the severity of facial skin erythema before and after using the product, the usefulness of the epidermal barrier (TEWL indicator), and the pH level of the skin after applying the product and washing with water (assessment of residual changes) were assessed.

After washing, the initially increased level of skin oiliness decreased significantly by 93%, which indicates the effectiveness of cleansing.

The TEWL after washing with the test product remained virtually unchanged, which indicates the preservation of the epidermal skin barrier. There were no signs of erythema development.

Washing leads to almost complete removal of the product, which proves the restoration of the pH level almost to the original level of 6-7 units.

Clinical testing has confirmed the effectiveness and dermatological safety of the cleanser for the care (cleansing/washing) of oily and combination skin. The product helps cleanse the skin, does not have an irritating effect, does not damage the skin barrier and is completely removed from the skin by washing.

A composition for skin washing has been developed using a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae, which has cleansing and antiseptic properties. Due to the balanced composition of the product, high foaming ability is achieved, and due to the presence of lauric acid, the necessary care for oily and combination skin is provided.

Claims (3)

1. A composition of a cleanser containing stearic and palmitic acids, glycerin, fragrance and drinking water, characterized in that it additionally contains potassium salts of stearic acid, potassium salts of fatty acids of coconut oil and a component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae, with the following ratio of components, wt.%: potassium salts of stearic acid 10.50-40.00 Potassium salts of coconut oil fatty acids 5.20-20.50 stearic acid 1.50-6.50 palmitic acid 1.20-5.50 glycerol 7.50-35.00 component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae 0.10-1.00 fragrance 0.50-1.50 drinking water rest 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the component representing the lipid fraction from H. illucens larvae contains lauric acid in an amount of 32-53 wt.%.