RU2621141C2 - Composition of cosmetological cream based on pearlescent component for oily skin care for hydration and nutrition - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: invention is a medical cosmetic preparation for rejuvenation, skin hydration, including tallow, emulsifying wax, distilled glycerin, 1,2-propylene glycol, nipagine, nipazol, ethyl alcohol, essential oils - mandarin, St. John's wort, plantain, alposomy, grape seed oil, wheat germ oil, as well as biologically active additive: pearlescent component obtained from the leaflets of river bivalves Unio pectorum and Anodonta.

EFFECT: expansion of the medical and cosmetic products range for skin rejuvenation and hydration with a pronounced prolonged action.

Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry and can be used in the design of a line of cosmetic products, taking into account various types of skin.

A known method of obtaining a cream gel based on celandine extract, including the selection of freshly cut plants in the flowering and ripening phase of the fruits, their grinding in the plant mass and placing it in an opaque container with glass walls and aging under certain conditions, while over this period of time produce 1-2 times irrigation of rotting plants with the reference final product of extraction of previous collections [RF patent No. 2366444, 10.31.2007].

A known method of using a concentrate of biologically active components of propolis alcohol and oil extracts with an additional glycerol content for dry skin, isolated from propolis, emulsifier, fat and water phase, with an additional alcohol content of benzyl, emulsion wax, which is a cream that has a beneficial effect on the skin, good absorption, as well as having a long shelf life [RF patent No. 2120275, 10/20/1998].

Known cream for aging skin, containing the following components, wt. %: orotic acid 0.1-0.5; sorbitan oleate 1-3; lanolin 1-8; beeswax beeswax 1-5; stearyl stearate-stearakitalan 1-4; mink fat 2-8; pentol 0.5-4; stone seed oil 2-12; isopropyl palmitate 1-10; perfume oil 1-15; magnesium sulfate 0.1-2; ethyl alcohol 1-5; Paroform 0.01-1; perfume 0.1-0.2; water - the rest [ed. St. USSR No. 10271516, MKI 4 A61K 7/00, 1986]. However, this cream has a narrow spectrum of action on the body.

Known cream for the treatment of oily skin and rejuvenation of the skin of the face, neck, hands, containing the following components, wt. %: aloe oil extract 1.5; harmala oil extract 1.5; Kalanchoe oil extract 1.5; nettle oil extract 1.5; Sea buckthorn oil extract 2.4; plantain oil extract 1.5; ephedra oil extract 1.5; beeswax 3.0; propolis 3.0; olive oil - the rest [RF patent No. 2121341, MKI 6 A61K 7/00, 7/48, 1999]. However, some components of this cream can cause allergic reactions.

Known therapeutic and cosmetic product selected as a prototype, containing components in the following proportions, wt. %: stearin 2.6; glycerol 4.8; lanolin 10-14; triethanolamine 0.5-1.5; placenta extract 35-45; geranium oil 0.1-0.5; distilled water - the rest. The use of this therapeutic and cosmetic product provides a simplification of the technology for producing cream for the care of aging skin [RF patent No. 92006143, MKI A61K 7/00, 1995]. However, the well-known cosmetic cosmetic product does not have a sufficient regenerating and moisturizing effect on the skin.

The aim of the present invention is to provide a therapeutic and cosmetic composition for skin rejuvenation based on the pearlescent component of the shells of bivalve mollusks Unio and Anodonta, which have a nourishing, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, anti-inflammatory, decongestant, regenerating effect on human skin.

This goal is achieved by the fact that the therapeutic and cosmetic composition, including a pearlescent component containing conhiolin, rich in 22 types of amino acids - the main material for creating new healthy cells (methionine, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine, aspartic acid and other 18 trace elements, such as Al , Cu, Mn, Na, Zn, Se, Ti, Sr, etc.), and also contains glucose, which strengthens the muscles of the face, vitamins B, D. In addition, the composition includes the perfumery part, represented by essential oils selected from the group: mandarin, St. John's wort, podor zhnik in equal volume ratios of at least 0.5% by volume when the total amount.

In addition to the above extracts, which are mandatory in the composition of this composition, other plant extracts with a rejuvenating effect can be added to it.

The pearlescent component included in the therapeutic and cosmetic composition, taken in the optimal ratio, has a pronounced anti-aging, regenerating, moisturizing, whitening, cleansing, decongestant, bactericidal and antiseptic effect on the skin, which determines its therapeutic effect, and therefore expands the range of therapeutic effects on the body.

A test of the medical-cosmetic composition and a simple baby cream was conducted. 25 female volunteers aged 35 to 65 years were selected for testing, in accordance with the inclusion criteria mentioned:

- good general health;

- lack of allergic reactions;

- lack of ongoing pharmacological treatment;

- lack of atopy in history.

Participants applied two products each day, one on each side of the face, as follows:

- on the right side of the face - medical and cosmetic composition;

- not the left side of the face - baby cream.

The parameters that were analyzed for this study were:

- skin hydration index;

- skin profilometry.

Skin Moisture Index

The skin hydration measurement is based on the internationally recognized CORNEOMETER ^® . Healthy skin in normal room conditions (20 ° C and 40-60% air humidity) in the test area should have a moisture index ≥50. A moisture index in the range of 35-50 corresponds to dry skin, while a moisture index of less than 35 corresponds to very dry skin. These values are indicative only for the interpretation of the results.

These studies were conducted within 30 days of application of the composition. The improvement obtained during this time was noted as the transition of participants from a lower level to a higher level.

Among 25 volunteers, only 5 people had moderately dry skin; the remaining 20 people had normally moisturized skin. Even though only 5 out of 25 people needed real improvement, the final result showed that at the end of the treatment period there were no participants with moderately dry skin.

Skin profilometry

Using VISIOSCAN VC 98 to analyze skin surface in vivo, wrinkle reduction was investigated. The parameters are:

- SEr: roughness;

- SEsc: scaly;

- SEsm: smoothness, proportional to the width and shape of wrinkles;

- Sew: wrinkles, proportional to the number and width of wrinkles;

- Volume: proportional to the depth of the wrinkles, the deeper the wrinkles, the greater the volume parameter.

When the results on various parameters were statistically analyzed using multivariate analysis of variance (ANOVA) using the special Statgraphic plus software, only two parameters, namely skin elasticity and skin hydration, obtained statistically significant results. The conclusion reached by the Pavia researchers who conducted the test according to the instructions of the authors of the present invention was as follows: “The use of an active product applied to the right side of the face caused a statistically significant increase in hydration and elasticity relative to baseline; while treatment with baby cream (left side) did not lead to significant changes during the entire treatment period. ”

The following results were obtained: 18 of 25 participants had an initial value of 0.0 or a complete absence of skin roughness; and with respect to the SEsc parameter or skin scaly, 20 out of 25 participants had a score of 0.0 or no scaly at all. Thus, the authors of the present invention limited the assessment to two parameters Sew, or the number and width of wrinkles, and VOL related to the volume of wrinkles, measured in terms of the depth of wrinkles. Even here, since only 7 participants for Sew and 9 for VOL had initial values that needed correction, and the rest had indicators close to zero.

Thus, from the point of view of reducing the volume or depth of wrinkles, the authors of the present invention received a reduction range during the treatment period of 30 days from 18% to 75%, achieving a very significant level in terms of improving the volume of wrinkles.

25 subjects perfectly endured four-week tests according to dermatological and clinical criteria. In the field of application of the medical-cosmetic composition, undesirable or pathological changes in the skin were noted. Long-term optical three-dimensional scanning of the skin surface to determine the roughness in accordance with DIN 4768ff showed an average improvement of between 30.7% (cheek / lower eyelid), 30.9% (cheek / mouth) and 33.2% (forehead area). Such indicators can be considered very good.

When checking the skin roughness in accordance with the DIN standard after 4 weeks without any additional use of the drug, a significant reduction in the wrinkle depth was recorded compared to the period before the use of the drug - 32.7% in the forehead and 19.5% in the forehead cheeks / mouth and 14.3% in the cheeks / lower eyelid. Thus, it is proved that the cosmetic cosmetic product for rejuvenating, moisturizing the skin has a lasting positive effect on the skin in terms of reducing wrinkle formation.

It was established that the effect of the therapeutic and cosmetic product according to the dermatological and clinical criteria was very well tolerated and led to significant improvements in skin roughness according to DIN 4768ff. The average decrease in wrinkle depth due to the use of the drug for four weeks ranged from 30.7 to 33.2%.

Thus, the proposed composition allows you to expand the range of products that have both cosmetic and therapeutic effects, as well as due to the complex of biologically active substances, the composition of the cream has become more effective properties of the cream, penetrate deeper into the pores of the skin and continue to exert its effect for 2-3 months after termination of use, i.e. have a pronounced prolonged action.

The composition has no contraindications for the duration of use. The composition is used as the basis for morning cream, aftershave cream and cream - the basis for makeup.

The composition includes: stearin, emulsion wax, distilled glycerin, 1,2-propylene glycol, nipagin, nipazole, ethyl alcohol, essential oils - mandarin, St. John's wort, plantain; alposomes; grape seed oil, wheat germ oil, as well as biologically active additives: the resulting mother-of-pearl component from the valves of the river bivalve mollusks Unio pectorum and Anodonta.

The method is as follows.

Pre-dried and crushed shells of freshwater bivalve mollusks must be crushed by grinding between two metal parts, that is, preliminary mechanical grinding is carried out, after which pre-crushed nacre is processed in a phytomixer, which takes 2-5 minutes. The optimum temperature of the suspension is 40-60 ° C.

After preparation, storage up to 0.5 ° C, at which oxygen consumption almost ceases.

10 ml of 40% ethanol were added to 1 gram of pre-ground pearl in an ultrasonic disperser. The extraction was carried out for 10 days with stirring. The supernatant was decanted and stored at room temperature in a dark place, after which the following components were mixed,%: stearin - 2.7, emulsion wax - 2.0, distilled glycerin - 3.3, 1,2-propylene glycol - 2.5, nipagin - 3.8, nipazole - 2.3, ethyl alcohol - 6.7, essential oils: mandarin - 2.5, St. John's wort - 0.8, plantain - 1.7; alposomes - 4.1. Then, the composition was added in a% ratio: grape seed oil 25.0, wheat germ oil - 3.3, olive oil - up to 100%.

The resulting mixture was thoroughly mixed and used as a cream.

To obtain a rejuvenating, moisturizing and regenerating effect, the cream was applied to the skin in the morning. After absorption, the cream also served as the basis for applying makeup.

Claims (1)

Cosmetic and cosmetic products for rejuvenating, moisturizing the skin include stearin, emulsion wax, distilled glycerin, 1,2-propylene glycol, nipagin, nipazole, ethyl alcohol, essential oils - mandarin, St. John's wort, plantain, alposomes, grape seed oil, wheat germ oil, as well as a biologically active additive: a pearlescent component obtained from the cusps of river bivalve mollusks Unio pectorum and Anodonta.