RU2500383C1 - Sun-protection cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, pharmaceutics.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology and represents a sun-protection cream consisting of aqueous-alcohol extract of grape skins, CO₂-extract of grape skins, olive oil, isopropyl myristate, higher synthetic primary fatty alcohols C₁₆-C₂₀ fraction, polyethylene glycol-400 stearate, bee wax, glycerol, stearine, triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol, a preserving agent, a flavouring agent and water with the ingredients of the cream are found in certain proportions, wt %.

EFFECT: invention provides a higher rate of sun-protective action of the sun-protection cream.

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Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry, namely to sunscreens.

Known cosmetic product to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation (patent RU No. 2277903), including a water-oil base, nanocrystalline chemisorbed oxygen silicon, physiologically active compounds obtained from marine fish, and vitamin E. The cream has an increased sun protection factor due to the expansion of the light transmission .

The disadvantage of a cosmetic product is the content of physiologically active compounds obtained from marine fish, the basis of which are polyunsaturated fatty acids, including cluponodonic acid. This acid is unstable and oxidizes rapidly when exposed to sunlight and oxygen. Vitamin E present in the cosmetic composition plays the role of an antioxidant of polyunsaturated fatty acids, due to which it carries a minimal physiological load in the process of skin care.

Closest to the claimed sunscreen is a cream to protect the skin from sunburn (patent RU No. 2020927), which increases photoprotective ability and contains isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate or polyethylsiloxane liquid, beeswax, glycerin or 1,2-propylene glycol, stearin, triethanolamine, 2- phenylbenzoxazole, methyl ether of n-hydroxybenzoic acid, propyl ether of n-hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, perfume and water, olive oil or cottonseed oil, polyethylsiloxane liquid, blue alcohols eticheskie primary higher fatty fraction C ₁₆ -C _20, PEG-400 stearate, 2-hydroxy-4-alkoksibenzofenon, ionol, black tea concentrates, natural, paraformaldehyde.

The disadvantage of this cream is that the photoprotective effect of the product is due to the presence of more chemical UV filters - 2-phenylbenzoxazole and 2-hydroxy-4-alkoxybenzophenone, which can have a negative effect on the skin with prolonged use of the cosmetic product.

The objective of the invention is the creation of an effective and safe sunscreen to protect the skin of the face and body from the adverse effects of sunlight.

The technical result is to increase the degree of photoprotective effect of the cream.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that a sunscreen consisting of olive oil, isopropyl myristate, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols of the C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fraction, polyethylene glycol-400 stearate, beeswax, glycerin, stearin, triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol, preservative, perfume and water characterized in that, as a natural UV filter to protect the skin of the face and body from the adverse effects of sunlight, an aqueous-alcoholic extract of the skin of grapes obtained by water-alcohol extraction and a CO ₂ extract of the skin grape eggs obtained by extraction with carbon dioxide, in the following ratio of components, wt.%:

Olive oil 4.0-6.0 Isopropyl myristate 1.0-5.0 Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols fraction C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 1.0-5.0 Polyethylene Glycol Stearate - 400 2.0-4.0 Beeswax 0.5-2.5 Glycerol 2.0-6.0 Stearin 3.0-6.0 Triethanolamine 0.6-1.2 Benzyl alcohol 0.3-0.5 Water-alcohol extract of the skin of grapes 0.01-0.15 Grape skin CO ₂ extract 0.01-0.15 Preservative 0.04-0.05 Perfume 0.5-1.2 Water up to 100

An advantage of the developed sunscreen is the introduction of a water-alcohol extract of the skin of grapes and a CO ₂ extract of the skin of grapes into the product.

The aqueous-alcoholic extract of the skin of grapes is rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, coloring and tannins, and has antioxidant, bactericidal and sunscreen properties. The extract exhibits high antioxidant effectiveness by protecting polyunsaturated fatty acids from UV-induced lipid peroxidation. The content of polyphenols in the aqueous-alcoholic extract also ensures its biological activity. Grape polyphenols inhibit the processes of lipid peroxidation of the skin, which is enhanced during natural aging, when exposed to UV rays, when the ambient temperature and other factors change. The aqueous-alcoholic extract of the skin of grapes is a liquid and has an intense dark color.

The CO ₂ extract of the grape skin is saturated with sterols, carotenoids and phospholipids. It also has sunscreen properties. It is a creamy, dark-colored product.

The general biological effect of water-alcohol and CO ₂ -extracts of grape skin is also manifested in the properties of strengthening small blood vessels, reducing inflammatory reactions, protecting collagen and elastin from damage by free radicals, i.e. preservation of skin tone and elasticity.

Olive oil is a non-drying liquid vegetable oil from European olive. Contains up to 84% unsaturated oleic acid. Used in skin care products.

Isopropyl myristate is the product of the interaction of isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid. Widely used as an emollient in cosmetic products.

Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols of the C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fraction - are obtained by reduction of fatty acids or oxidation of paraffins. Used as a structure-forming component.

Polyethylene glycol stearate - used as a coemulsifier. The resulting emulsions are characterized by stable dispersion.

Beeswax - produced by special glands of working bees. It is used as a structure-forming heat-resistant and emollient component in emulsion products.

Glycerin - is a colorless, odorless liquid that mixes easily with water and ethanol. It is highly hygroscopic. They are added to cosmetics for water evaporation, in addition, glycerin has a moisturizing effect on the skin.

Stearin is a mixture of saturated fatty acids. It is used as a structure-forming component in cosmetic products.

Triethanolamine is a low molecular weight amino alcohol, a colorless or light yellow viscous liquid. Hygroscopic, soluble in water, alcohol, acetone. Used in cosmetics as a soft base.

Benzyl alcohol - used as an antiseptic and preservative. Contained in some essential oils.

Preservative - a component that ensures the resistance of a cosmetic product to microbial infection during the guaranteed shelf life. It has fungicidal and bactericidal activity.

Perfume - a perfume composition to mask the smell of the base and give a pleasant aroma of the product.

Water is one of the permanent components in the formulations of most perfumes and cosmetics. Provides them with the necessary transparency, viscosity, concentration and color.

To confirm the technical result, samples of the claimed sunscreen and prototype were prepared. A range of values of the components included in the formulation of the inventive sunscreen has been proposed. Formulations of cosmetics are shown in table 1.

Table 1 The formulation of the inventive sunscreen and prototype, wt.% Component Recipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe 3 Cream for protecting the skin from sunburn according to the prototype Olive oil 4.0 5,0 6.0 4.0-6.0 Isopropyl myristate 1,0 3.0 5,0 1.0-5.0 Polyethylsiloxane Liquid - - - 1.0-6.0 Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols fraction C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 1,0 3.0 5,0 1.0-5.0 Polyethylene Glycol-400 Stearate 2.0 3.0 4.0 2.0-4.0 Beeswax 0.5 1,5 2,5 0.5-2.5 Glycerol 2.0 4.0 6.0 2.0-6.0 Stearin 3.0 4,5 6.0 3.0-6.0 Triethanolamine 0.6 0.9 1,2 0.6-1.2 2-phenylbenzoxazole - - 2.0-2.5 2-hydroxy-4-alkoxybenzophenone - - - 2.0-5.0 Ionol - - 0.1-0.3 Natural Black Tea Concentrates - - - 0.05-0.20 Water-alcohol extract of the skin of grapes 0.01 0.8 0.15 - Grape skin CO ₂ extract 0.01 0.8 0.15 - Para-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester - - - 0.2-0.3 Para-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester - - - 0.05-0.10 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.3-0.5 Paraform - - - 0.04-0.05 Perfume 0.5 0.85 1,2 0.5-1.2 Preservative 0.04 0,045 0.05 - Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

The technology for preparing sunscreen consists of the following steps: a prescription amount of water, glycerin and triethanolamine alanolin is loaded into a stirred reactor, the mixture is heated to 70-75 ° C. Olive oil, isopropyl myristate, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols of the C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fraction, polyethylene glycol stearate, beeswax, stearin are charged into a separate reactor, the mixture is also heated to 70-75 ° C. After the mixture of fat components has melted, CO ₂ -extract of the grape skin is added and mixed thoroughly. Next, two phases are mixed, an emulsification stage is carried out for 15-20 minutes. The resulting emulsion is cooled to a temperature of 35-40 ° C and water-alcoholic extract of the skin of grapes, benzyl alcohol, preservative and perfume are added. The emulsion is mixed for another 5-10 minutes until a homogeneous mass is formed. The finished cosmetic product is packaged in a container and stored at a temperature of +4 to 10 ° C.

To confirm the claimed technical result, the obtained samples of sunscreen are evaluated in consumer properties, determine the effectiveness of sunscreens, organoleptic and physico-chemical indicators.

To assess the consumer properties of the claimed sunscreen, the following indicators were selected: smell, flowability, absorbability, fat content and stickiness. The average values of these indicators are shown in table 2.

table 2 The average values of consumer properties of the formulations of the inventive sunscreen Name of indicator Average values of consumer properties Recipe 1, score Recipe 2, score Recipe 3, score Smell 4.9 5,0 5,0 Spreadability 4.9 5,0 4.7 Absorbability 4.9 4.9 4.8 Fat 5,0 5,0 4.9 Stickiness 5,0 5,0 4.8

Recipe 2 sunscreen has higher consumer properties (table 2) and is the most acceptable formulation of the inventive sunscreen.

To determine the effectiveness of sunscreens, a method for determining the sunscreens properties of cosmetics is used, which is based on the absorption of ultraviolet light by a composition applied in a thin layer on a hard surface.

To carry out the work, one of the test samples is applied evenly to the quartz plate, making sure that there are no air bubbles in it. The sample is closed from above with the same quartz plate and the layer thickness is adjusted to 0.01 mm, measured with a micrometer. Both plates are placed in a special spectrophotometer holder. Two clean plates of exactly the same thickness are placed next to this holder. The cuvette holder is placed in the cuvette chamber of the device, after which the UV spectrum of the test sample is removed in the region of 260-350 nm. On the reference scale of the device determine the percentage of transmission of ultraviolet rays by the test sample.

Similarly carry out the experiment with the second sample. Next, the effectiveness of the sunscreen agent is evaluated by the value of K, which is equal to the ratio of the percent transmission of a clean wafer to the percent transmission of a plate with a sample of sunscreen. Make comparative conclusions about the sun-protection effectiveness of these samples.

The achievement of the technical result is proved by comparing the effectiveness of the inventive sunscreen and prototype (table 3).

Table 3 The effectiveness indicators of the sunscreen properties of the inventive sunscreen and prototype Recipe Recipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe 3 Cream for protecting the skin from sunburn according to the prototype Sunscreen Efficiency, K 1.55 1,57 1,58 1.35

The effectiveness of the developed sunscreen is 1.57, the largest K, the effectiveness of the prototype is 1.35. The effectiveness of the developed sunscreen is higher than the effectiveness of the prototype.

According to the organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters of the inventive sunscreen meets the requirements and standards according to GOST R 52343-2005 specified in table 4.

Table 4 Organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics of cosmetic creams Name of indicator Permissible Norms Characteristics and norm of the claimed sunscreen Appearance Homogeneous mass does not contain impurities Homogeneous mass does not contain impurities Color Inherent to the color of this cream White with a faint purple hue Smell Peculiar to the smell of this cream Perfumed odor Mass fraction of water and volatiles,% 5.0-98.0 78.0-92.0 PH value 5.0-9.0 5.5-6.0 Colloidal stability Stable Stable Thermal stability Stable Stable Mass fraction of the amount of heavy metals,%, no more 0.0020 (20.0)

From the above experimental data, it follows that the sunscreen properties of the claimed sunscreen are higher than that of the prototype, while in the formulation of the claimed sunscreen as a natural UV filter, natural components of plant origin are used.

Thus, the set of essential features set forth in the claims, allows to achieve the desired result. The invention meets the criteria of patentability, in particular the inventive step, since the composition of the sunscreen as a natural UV filter to protect the skin of the face and body from the adverse effects of sunlight includes water-alcohol and CO ₂ -extract of the grape skin.

Claims (1)

Sunscreen, consisting of olive oil, isopropyl myristate, synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols of the C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fraction, polyethylene glycol-400 stearate, beeswax, glycerin, stearin, triethanolamine, benzyl alcohol, preservative, perfume and water, characterized in that it is additionally contains as a natural UV filter to protect the skin of the face and body from the adverse effects of sunlight, an aqueous-alcoholic extract of the grape skin and a CO ₂ extract of the grape skin in the following ratio, wt.%:
Olive oil 4.0-6.0 Isopropyl myristate 1.0-5.0 Synthetic primary higher fatty alcohols fraction C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ 1.0-5.0 Polyethylene Glycol-400 Stearate 2.0-4.0 Beeswax 0.5-2.5 Glycerol 2.0-6.0 Stearin 3.0-6.0 Triethanolamine 0.6-1.2 Benzyl alcohol 0.3-0.5 Water-alcohol extract grape skins 0.01-0.15 Grape skin CO ₂ extract 0.01-0.15 Preservative 0.04-0.05 Perfume 0.5-1.2 Water up to 100