RU2793740C1 - Sunscreen cosmetic composition and method for making the same - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to a sunscreen, for example, an antioxidant gel with protection against ultraviolet radiation (hereinafter referred to as “UV radiation”) and a method for producing the said sunscreen cosmetics. A group of inventions relates to the cosmetic industry, namely to a sunscreen. Sunscreen cosmetic composition in the form of a silicone gel contains in wt.%: 7.0–9.0 of caprylic/capric triglycerides; 6.5–8.0 of thylhexyl methoxycinnomate; 1.0–2.53 of ethylhexyl triazone; 4.5–6.0 of bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine&silica; 10–14.0 of coco-caprylate; 0.4–0.7 of tocopheryl acetate; 4.0–6.5 of almond oil; 0.05–0.5 of alpha-lipoic acid; 0.5–1.0 of preservative; 0.02–0.10 of fragrance; isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG — 20 crosspolymer — the rest. A method for manufacturing the said composition is also disclosed.

EFFECT: group of inventions provides for the creation of an antioxidant gel with protection from ultraviolet radiation with a simultaneous increase in consumer properties, namely, a decrease in stickiness and fat content.

3 cl, 4 tbl, 1 ex

Description

Technical field

The present group of inventions relates to the cosmetic industry, namely to a sunscreen, for example, an antioxidant gel with protection against ultraviolet radiation (hereinafter referred to as UV radiation) and a method for producing said sunscreen cosmetic composition.

A prerequisite for creating this group of inventions is the need to create a cosmetic composition designed for a protective effect against the negative effects of UV radiation, a wide range of wavelengths and oxidative processes associated with exposure to the skin of free radicals, while it can be released in the form of an antioxidant gel with sunscreens. properties, which should have a long-lasting effect and improved consumer properties, which consist in reducing the stickiness and fat content of the gel.

Broad-spectrum UV radiation, according to the claimed group of inventions, includes UVA and UVB radiation.

UVA is UV radiation, which is long-wave radiation, it surrounds us and permeates everything from sunrise to sunset. These rays affect the body, even when we are indoors, and penetrate deeper than the epidermis into the dermis, they do not cause burns, but contribute to the appearance of sunburn, pigmentation, photoaging of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles.

UVB is UV radiation, group B rays. UVB radiation has a wavelength of 280-320 nm. A small amount of it penetrates the ozone layer, accounting for less than 10% of all ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth's surface. This type of radiation is responsible for skin aging, sunburn, immune system suppression, DNA damage, and skin cancer.

State of the art

From the prior art, a source of information RU 2690520 C2, 06/04/2019 is known, which discloses a sunscreen in solid form, including:

(i) vegetable oil, solid vegetable oil or a mixture thereof, where the total amount of vegetable oil and solid vegetable oil is from 40 to 80 wt. % based on the weight of the solid sunscreen, and the sunscreen includes solid vegetable oil in an amount of from 40 to 75 wt. % based on the weight of the composition,

(ii) one or more materials that absorb UV radiation, where the amount of material that absorbs UV radiation is from 10 to 55 wt. % based on the weight of the solid sunscreen, and

(iii) one or more materials that reflect UV radiation, where the amount of material that reflects UV radiation is from 0.5 to 30 wt. % based on the weight of the solid sunscreen, where the vegetable oil and the solid vegetable oil are selected from avocado oil, cocoa butter, murumuru butter, cupuaçu butter, bassia nut oil, mango butter, shea butter, sesame oil, rosehip oil, almond oil, raspberry seed oils, moringa oils and mixtures thereof, wherein the UV absorbing material is selected from octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, homosalate, ecamsul and mixtures thereof, where the UV reflective material is selected from clays, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures.

From the prior art known source of information US 2015209259 A1, 07/30/2015, which discloses a cosmetic sunscreen composition containing a UV filter combination a) 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxybenzoylmethane, b) 2,4,6 -tris[anilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyltriazone), c) 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine), d) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and/or one or more salts thereof.

From the prior art known source of information EP 3093004 A1, November 16, 2016, which disclosed a cosmetic product containing a combination of UV filters ausa) 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, b) 2,4,6-tris- [anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), c) 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl -hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) and d) one or more salicylates selected from the group of compounds 2- ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylates); and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate).

Also known from the prior art is a cosmetic product that has a sunscreen action Murad Invisiblur Perfecting Shield Broad Spectrum with a degree of sun protection (SPF) 30PA, which contains as sunscreen filters: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone), homosalate (Homosalate), ethylhexyl salicylate (Octisalate) , Octocrylene (Octocrylene) in a silicone cosmetic base. This cosmetic product is applied to the skin of the face to protect it from exposure to sunlight.

General disadvantages of the prior art include unsatisfactory consumer properties, namely increased fat content when applied, shine on the skin surface and excessive stickiness.

In addition, the use of a non-photostable filter in the formula: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone), which decomposes under ultraviolet light (UV radiation), can adversely affect human skin.

Also, the use of a UV filter in the compositions of cosmetic products with a sunscreen effect: octocrylene (Octocrylene), despite the fact that this UV filter is included in the list of permitted ones, is undesirable, since, according to currently available information, it has negative ratings. First of all, this is due to the fact that, as some specialists in the cosmetology industry believe, this filter has hormonal activity. As a result, despite the long-term use of these filters in sunscreens, there is a desire among consumers to avoid their use.

Disclosure of the essence of the invention

The task to be solved by the group of inventions is the creation of a cosmetic product with sunscreen properties and a method for its manufacture without the disadvantages of the known prior art.

The technical result achieved when using a real sunscreen cosmetic composition with antioxidant properties and UV protection that does not contain octocrylene (Octocrylene) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) is to increase consumer properties, namely, to reduce stickiness and oily sheen on the skin.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that the sunscreen cosmetic composition in the form of a silicone gel contains isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer, coco-caprylate, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate, almond oil, silica, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, tocopheryl acetate, alpha-lipoic acid, preservative and fragrance, and the components in the gel are in the ratio in wt. %:

caprylic / capric triglycerides - 7.0-9.0

ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate - 6.5-8.0

ethylhexyl triazone - 1.0-2.53

bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica - 4.5-6.0

coco-caprylate - 10-14.0

tocopheryl acetate - 0.4-0.7

almond oil - 4.0-6.5

alpha lipoic acid - 0.05-0.5

preservative - 0.5-1.0

fragrance - 0.02-0.10

isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer - the rest.

The method for manufacturing said composition includes sequential preparation of phases A, B, C D, E in accordance with the prescription amount and mixing them in the reactor. At the first stage, phase A (isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer) is loaded into the reactor and mixed at a low stirrer speed of 40-70 rpm. Next, phase B is prepared (caprylic / capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate, ethylhexyl triazone), for this, the prescription amount of components is measured, mixed, heated to 70-80 ° C, the resulting homogeneous mass is cooled to 40-45 ° C and added to the reactor. After that, phase C is prepared (bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica, coco-caprylate, tocopheryl acetate), for this, the components are mixed in a prescription amount, heated to 60-65 ° C, the resulting homogeneous mass is cooled to 40-45 ° C and added to the reactor . Phase D is prepared by mixing the prescription amount of almond oil, alpha lipoic acid until smooth. The resulting phase D is added to the reactor. Phase E is prepared in a similar manner from preservative and perfume. All ingredients are mixed until a homogeneous homogeneous gel is obtained for 2-5 hours.

EFFECT: invention ensures the creation of a stable sunscreen composition with the ability to block ultraviolet rays of the UVA and UVB types. The composition is suitable as a base for make-up, evens out the texture of the skin, does not leave stickiness and oiliness on the skin.

The technical result of the invention is achieved as follows. As sunscreens, add: ethylhexyl triazone (Ethylhexyl Triazone), ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine & Silica).

Ethylhexyl Triazone is a chemical sunscreen that provides protection in the UVB range. At the same time, this UV filter is a powder that does not make the gel sticky. And even at low concentrations, this UV filter significantly improves the sun protection factor (SPF) of the gel.

Also, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) was added to the composition. It is one of the most widely used UV filters and is active in the UVB range.

In addition, a sunscreen filter is added to the product - bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine & Silica) - a highly effective filter with a wide absorption spectrum - UVA + UVB, which is a powder treated with silica.

Due to this form, less addition of this component is required to provide the necessary SPF. In addition, it not only does not add stickiness, but also contributes to the fact that the gel becomes more “dry” and “velvet”, which is a significant advantage of the developed gel.

Thus, as a result of using these filters, protection against ultraviolet radiation in a wide spectrum of radiation with the best consumer properties is achieved, the composition is easier to distribute over the skin, leaving no stickiness and oiliness.

Silicone - isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer was chosen as the basis for the gel, since it has broad compatibility with organic substances, in particular with UV filters, which makes it possible to create transparent waterproof systems with them.

In addition, it is convenient to use, as it allows you to create recipes using the "cold" technology, it is not required in the manufacturing process to increase the temperature above 100°C.

For a lighter texture and better distribution of the gel over the skin, coco-caprylate was added to the composition. By increasing the spreadability and the resulting more even distribution, a higher sun protection factor (SPF) is achieved without increasing the concentrations of UV filters.

Caprylic / Capric triglycerides are added to the gel, which is compatible with all organic and inorganic UV filters and is their solvent and dispersant. It allows the filters to spread more easily over the skin without leaving a sticky or greasy feeling.

Almond oil has been added to the gel, which contains many useful substances and has nourishing, moisturizing, regenerating and antioxidant properties, as it contains vitamin E. Vitamin E used in the composition is a substance that protects epidermal cells from destruction by free radicals. In addition to preventing oxidation, it retains moisture in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. It also promotes cell renewal and helps fight inflammation. Vitamin E helps repair UV damage and visibly smoothes skin texture.

Alpha-lipoic acid is introduced into the gel, which has a number of useful properties. Alpha Lipoic Acid is an antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals. Another important property of alpha-lipoic acid is its effect on cellular metabolism - it counteracts glycation - the combination of sugar with collagen and elastin fibers, which leads to fiber deformation and external aging. In addition to antioxidant and anti-glycation properties, alpha-lipoic acid has anti-inflammatory activity, helps to even out complexion.

The gel is protected by adding a mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, which acts not only as an antimicrobial agent, but also as a humectant. A fragrance is used to give the gel a mild fragrance.

Implementation of the invention

The possibility of carrying out the claimed invention is confirmed by examples of specific implementation.

The formulations of cosmetics are presented in table 1.

Table 1 Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 INCI % % % % isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer Rest Rest Rest Rest caprylic/capric triglycerides 8.0 9.0 8.0 7.0 ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate 8.0 7.0 7.5 6.5 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.0 2.5 2.0 2.5 bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine&silica 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5 coco caprylate 10.0 14.0 12.0 11.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.6 0.4 0.5 0.7 Alpha Lipoic Acid 0.05 0.4 0.5 0.3 Almond oil 6.5 5.5 5.0 4.0 preservative 1.0 0.7 0.5 0.8 Perfume 0.1 0.06 0.04 0.02

The technology for preparing an antioxidant gel with a degree of sun protection SPF 30 consists of the following steps: a prescription amount of isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer is loaded into a reactor with a stirrer. Turn on the stirrer at 50 rpm. The components are weighed: caprylic/capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate, ethylhexyl triazone, heated to 70-80°C, stirred until a homogeneous state is obtained. Cool to 40-45°C and make the mixture into the reactor. The components are weighed: bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine&silica, coco-caprylate, tocopheryl acetate, heated to 60-65°C, stirred until uniform. Cool to 40-45°C and add the mixture to the reactor. Weigh the components: almond oil, alpha-lipoic acid, mix until smooth and add the mixture to the reactor. Next, a preservative and fragrance are added. Stir until a homogeneous homogeneous gel is obtained.

To confirm the claimed technical result, the obtained samples of the antioxidant gel (SPF 30) are subjected to an assessment of consumer properties, determination of sun protection properties and physicochemical parameters.

A number of indicators were determined by the organoleptic method.

Under the organoleptics, according to the prior art, we mean the determination of the properties of environmental objects (water, food, etc.) with the help of the senses (by taste, smell, etc.) (Dictionary of foreign words. Komlev N.G., 2006 Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language).

To evaluate consumer properties, the following indicators were selected: smell, fat content, stickiness, which were evaluated by the evaluation commission.

The average values of the indicators are shown in Table 2 (the values are given on a 10-point scale).

table 2 Average values of indicators of consumer properties Parameter name Composition 1, score Composition 2, score Composition 3, score Composition 4, score Smell 9.6 9.8 10.0 9.9 fat content 9.7 9.8 10.0 10.0 stickiness 9.7 9.8 10.0 9.9

Composition 3 Antioxidant gel is the most optimal.

To determine the effectiveness of sunscreens, the level of SPF in-vivo was determined. The data are presented in table 3.

Table 3 Parameter name Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 Average SPF 31.9 31.2 30.4 30.1

In terms of organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters, Compositions 1-4 of the antioxidant gel with an SPF of 30 comply with the requirements and standards of GOST 32852-2014 indicated in Table 4.

Table 4 Organoleptic and physico-chemical indicators Name of indicator Permissible norms Characteristic and norm Composition 1 Characteristic and norm Composition 2 Characteristic and norm Composition 3 Characteristic and norm Composition 4 Appearance Homogeneous single-phase or multi-phase liquid (emulsion, suspension) or oily solid mass without foreign inclusions Homogeneous oily mass, free of foreign matter Homogeneous oily mass, free of foreign matter Homogeneous oily mass, free of foreign matter Homogeneous oily mass, free of foreign matter Color Peculiar to the color of the products of a particular name Yellowish Yellowish Yellowish Yellowish Smell Inherent in the smell of products of a specific name fantasy fantasy fantasy fantasy Density at a temperature of 20 ° C, g / cm ³ Inherent density of products of a specific name 0.82-0.88 0.82-0.88 0.82-0.88 0.82-0.88 Refractive index at 20°C Inherent in the refractive index of products of a particular name 1.4400-1.4430 1.4400-1.4430 1.4400-1.4430 1.4400-1.4430 Hydrogen index, pH unit 3.0-9.0 4.0-6.5 4.0-6.5 4.0-6.5 4.0-6.5

Thus, the group of inventions provides an increase in consumer properties in an antioxidant gel with UV protection, such as a decrease in stickiness and oily sheen on the skin. It is also important that the proposed composition does not contain octrocrylene (Octocrylene) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone).

Claims (19)

1. Sunscreen cosmetic composition in the form of a silicone gel, characterized in that it contains the following components: isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer, coco-caprylate, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate, almond oil, silica, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, tocopheryl acetate, alpha-lipoic acid, preservative and perfume, the components being in the ratio in wt.%: caprylic / capric triglycerides - 7.0 - 9.0; ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate - 6.5 - 8.0; ethylhexyl triazone - 1.0 - 2.53 bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica - 4.5 - 6.0; coco-caprylate - 10 - 14.0; tocopheryl acetate - 0.4 - 0.7; almond oil - 4.0 - 6.5; alpha lipoic acid - 0.05 - 0.5; preservative - 0.5 - 1.0; fragrance - 0.02 - 0.10; isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer - the rest. 2. A method for manufacturing a sunscreen cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it includes sequential preparation of phases A, B, C, D, E and mixing them with constant stirring until a homogeneous mass is obtained, while - first, phase A is loaded from the prescription amount of isododecane, dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer into the reactor and mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained; - then phase B is prepared from caprylic / capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl methoxycinnomate, ethylhexyl triazone, for which the prescription amount of the components is mixed, heated to 70-80 ° C, the resulting homogeneous mass is cooled to 40-45 ° C and added to phase A; - after that, phase C is prepared from bis-ethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine & silica, coco-caprylate, tocopheryl acetate, for which the components are mixed in the prescribed amount, heated to 60-65 ° C, the resulting homogeneous mass is cooled to 40-45 ° C and added to A and B; - phase D is prepared by mixing the prescription amount of almond oil, alpha-lipoic acid until smooth and the resulting mixture is added to A, B, C; - phase E is prepared from preservative and fragrance in prescription amounts by mixing and the resulting mass is added to A, B, C, D. 3. The method according to p. 2, characterized in that the mixing of the mixture is carried out at a stirrer speed of 40-70 rpm.