KR20000040042A - Whitening cosmetic base composition of liquid crystal gel - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A whitening cosmetic base composition of liquid crystal gel is provided which is excellent in stability of ascorbic acid and the derivatives thereof and increases percutaneous absorption. CONSTITUTION: A whitening cosmetic base composition of liquid crystal gel comprises the followings: 50-75 wt.% of solvent excluding water; 20-40 wt.% of the mixture containing ceramide, nonionic surfactant, high alcohol, cholesterol and oil in the weight ratio of 2-3 : 1-3 : 2-4 : 4-6 : 5-8; 0.1-10 wt.% of one or more ascorbic acid or the derivative selected from the group of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-o-ethoxy ascorbic acid.

Description

Liquid Crystal Gel Whitening Cosmetic Composition

[Industrial use]

The present invention relates to a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition, and more particularly to a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition excellent in the whitening effect and a good feeling.

[Prior art]

It is almost instinct for women to pursue beauty, including East and West, and it is no exaggeration to say that the precondition of beauty is in fine skin. Especially in the Asian countries such as China, Japan and Korea, white and clean skin is almost essential condition.

Human skin color is determined by the amount of melanin, carotene and hemoglobin, of which melanin is the most decisive factor. Melanin is synthesized in melanocytes, pigment cells present in the basal layer of the skin, and transferred to the surrounding keratinocytes to give a human skin color. When abnormally low melanin is produced, skin lesions such as vitiligo are caused, and if it is excessively produced, it is known to form spots and blemishes. In addition, melanin is produced by tyrosinase, an enzyme from tyrosin, an amino acid, and tyrosinase is more active by ultraviolet rays, so it is well known that skin becomes dark when exposed to a lot of sunlight. Therefore, cosmetics with the concept of skin whitening effect are forming a large market in Korea and Japan, and most of them are products that contain substances that inhibit the activity of tyrosinase.

Conventionally, raw materials formulated into whitening cosmetics as active inhibitors of tyrosinase include plant extracts such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, lettuce extract, green tea extract, aloe extract, and golden extract, as well as kojic acid, arbutin, Oil-soluble licorice extract; and the like. However, various plant extracts are unstable over time, the effect is not sustained when formulated into the product, and the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase activity is also insignificant. In addition, kojic acid, arbutin, oil-soluble licorice extract is excellent in whitening effect, but the preservation stability over time is not satisfactory, the amount of use is limited to limit the whitening effect.

In addition, ascorbic acid has a problem of being unstable by pH, oxygen, and water. In order to solve such instability, studies have been conducted to stabilize the stabilizer, that is, by using an antioxidant and adjusting pH. Etc. However, this method is not satisfactory in stabilizing effect of ascorbic acid in actual product application.

Another method is to use a derivative of ascorbic acid. Derivatives of ascorbic acid used in this method include ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, magnesium ascorbate ), Chitosan ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 3-o-ethoxy ascorbic acid (Japanese Patent No. 1994258, Korean Patent No. 133533), ascorbyl-aminopopyl dihydrogen phophate (Korean Patent Application No. 97-23005). However, these methods prevent some degree of destabilization, but do not fully stabilize them. In addition, even when ascorbic acid and its derivatives are stabilized using various techniques and formulations, there is a problem that almost no transdermal absorption, so the whitening effect will be negligible.

Therefore, in order to increase the stability of ascorbic acid, a method of using an ascorbic acid liquid crystal and the like have been studied. In general, liquid crystal refers to an intermediate state between a solid and a liquid. In general, organic molecules having a hydrophilic portion and a lipophilic portion may be formed in several layers in which hydrophilic portions are hydrophilic portions and hydrophobic portions are uniformly arranged. It refers to a system that is produced when lamellae.

Liquid crystals behave like liquids in terms of viscosity and fluidity, but have unique properties such as light scattering and reflection, such as crystalline properties, and have a wide range of applications in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, food, and electronics industries. . In the field of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, liquid crystals are formed at the interface to stabilize emulsions, and have a structure similar to that of constituents of living cell membranes, thereby preserving not only skin protective film formation and moisturizing functions but also various water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients. It is applied as an improvement in stability and its effective delivery medium.

The production of liquid crystals of nonionic surfactants-cetostearyl alcohol has been known for a long time and is widely used in cosmetics. Such liquid crystals have the effect of causing swelling in the emulsion system to raise the viscosity and hardness of the emulsion or cream. Therefore, when a chemically labile component is contained, such a system decomposes the labile component over time, resulting in a decrease in the efficacy of the active ingredient. Nonionic surfactant-ceramide or nonionic surfactant-cholesterol liquid crystal system, unlike nonionic surfactant-cetosteayl alcohol liquid crystal system, forms a structure that does not cause swelling well, but due to its high melting point, it is difficult to use. There are many problems for commercial use.

As a study for solving the problems of Korean Patent No. 146221 and Korean Patent No. 154366, there is a Korean Patent Application No. 97-61024. However, when the liquid crystal prepared by this method is directly used as a cosmetic, there is a disadvantage in that the feeling is bad, so it is not directly used and added to the emulsion. However, when the ascorbic acid liquid crystal gel is added to the emulsion as described above, ascorbic acid has a high solubility in water, and thus elutes over time, resulting in destabilization.

The present invention is to solve the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition capable of stabilizing ascorbic acid and its derivatives and increase transdermal absorption.

Another object of the present invention to provide a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition excellent in whitening effect.

[Means for solving the problem]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention is 50 to 75% by weight of a non-aqueous solvent; 20 to 40 wt% of a non-ionic surfactant, a higher alcohol, cholesterol and an oil in a weight ratio of 2-3 to 1: 2 to 4: 4 to 6: 5 to 8; And it provides a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid and its derivatives 0.1 to 10% by weight.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present inventors have completed the present invention as a result of research to develop a non-aqueous solvent liquid crystal gel cosmetic with good feeling while stabilizing ascorbic acid and its derivatives and increasing transdermal absorption. The whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention is a composition having a high weight% of ceramide, nonionic surfactant, cetostearyl alcohol, cholesterol, and propylene glycol which is an oil and a nonaqueous solvent in an oil mixture. In addition, the whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention is a composition in which a liquid crystal gel ascorbic acid and a derivative thereof are stabilized, having a structure similar to that of a biological cell membrane.

Liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention is a non-aqueous solvent of 50 to 75% by weight, ceramides, nonionic surfactants, alcohols, cholesterol and oil of 2 to 3: 1 to 3: 2 to 4: 4 to 6: 5 to 8 20 to 40% by weight of the mixture, and 0.1 to 10% by weight of ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

As the nonaqueous solvent of the present invention, any solvent other than water generally used may be used, and propylene glycol may be used as a representative example thereof. The content of the nonaqueous solvent is preferably 50 to 75% by weight. If the content of the non-aqueous solvent is out of the above range it is difficult to prepare a formulation of lotion, cream, essence and has a disadvantage of poor use.

The components constituting the solute of the liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention are ceramides, nonionic surfactants, alcohols, cholesterol and oils. The mixing ratio of ceramide, nonionic surfactant, alcohol, cholesterol and oil is preferably a weight ratio of 2 to 3: 2 to 4: 4 to 6: 5 to 8. When the mixing ratio of ceramide, nonionic surfactant, alcohol, cholesterol and oil is outside the above range, no liquid crystal is formed or it is difficult to dissolve the components, making it difficult to form a stable liquid crystal agent. The amount of solute including ceramide, nonionic surfactant, higher alcohol, cholesterol, and oil included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 20 to 40% by weight. If the amount of the solute is out of this range it is difficult to prepare a formulation of lotions, creams, essences and has the disadvantage of poor feeling.

As the nonionic surfactant usable in the present invention, polyoxyethylene type, polyalcohol ester type or ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block copolymers generally used in cosmetic compositions may be used. have. In addition, as the higher alcohol of the present invention, any of the higher alcohols generally used in cosmetic compositions may be used, and representative examples thereof include cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the like.

As the oil, any one can be used as long as it can suppress water evaporation on the surface of the skin and improve the feeling of use, and representative examples thereof include paraffin, squalane, and waserine.

In addition, in order to form the most stable liquid crystal gel, ascorbic acid and its derivatives are preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total non-aqueous solvent-based liquid crystal gel. If ascorbic acid and its derivatives are used at less than 0.1% by weight, the whitening effect is weak, and when used at 10% by weight or more, there is a problem in that the solubility of ascorbic acid and its derivatives is poor and precipitated. It was weak and could not produce a stable cosmetic.

Ascorbic acid and its derivatives include ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or 3-o-ethoxy ascorbic acid, and the like. It can be used or mixed.

Method for producing a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention is as follows.

Solute 20, including ceramides, nonionic surfactants, higher alcohols, cholesterol and oils, mixed in a weight ratio of 2-3 to 1: 1 to 3: 2 to 4: 4 to 6: 5 to 8 by weight of non-aqueous solvent. To 40% by weight is added. This mixture is heated to 80-85 ° C. to dissolve. The temperature of the obtained product is adjusted to 50-60 ° C., and 0.1-10% by weight of ascorbic acid and its derivatives are added and dissolved. Subsequently, the obtained mixture was emulsified for 4 to 6 minutes under conditions of 2000 to 2500 rpm and cooled to 35 to 40 ° C. to prepare a liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition.

EXAMPLE

Hereinafter, preferred examples and comparative examples of the present invention are described. The following examples are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

(Examples 1 to 3 and Control Example 1)

Propylene glycol was used as a solvent according to the composition shown in Table 1 below, and the solution of ceramide, cholesterol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetearese and squalane was dissolved by heating at 85 ° C. Ascorbic acid and its derivatives were added and dissolved therein at 60 ° C, and then emulsified under a homomixer at 2500 rpm for 6 minutes, and then cooled to 40 ° C with stirring to prepare a non-aqueous emulsion liquid crystal gel cosmetic composition containing ascorbic acid and its derivatives. Prepared.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Propylene glycol Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Ceramide 3.0 5.0 5.0 20.0 cholesterol 6.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Cetostearyl alcohol 4.0 6.0 6.0 10.0 Seteas 2.0 3.0 3.0 8.0 Squalane 8.0 12.0 12.0 3.0 Ascorbic acid and its derivatives 0.1 1.0 10.0 -

The numerical unit used in Table 1 above is weight percent. In addition, ascorbic acid refers to ascorbic acid, a product of Roche, Switzerland, and ascorbic acid derivatives, ascorbyl palmitate, a product of Roche, Switzerland, and ascorbyl dipalmitate, of Nikkol, Japan. And HX-01B (Hypox, Japan).

(Comparative Examples 1 and 2)

In Comparative Examples 1 to 2, ascorbic acid and its derivatives were simply mixed in a general manner to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion according to the following method. First, the aqueous phase and the oil phase were dissolved by heating at 70 to 75 ° C., respectively, and then the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase. Ascorbic acid was added to all the mixtures, emulsified under homomixer under 6000 rpm for 10 minutes, and cooled to 30 ° C. to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion.

Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Triethanolamine 0.15 0.15 0.15 Carboxy vinyl polymer (1 wt% solution) 10.0 10.0 10.0 Dark glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 Paraoxybenzoic acid ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paid Cetostearyl alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan monostearate 0.3 0.3 0.3 POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isocetil Ministate 7.0 7.0 7.0 Isocetyl octinoate 5.0 5.0 5.0 additive Ascorbic acid 0.1 1.0 10.0

The unit of the numerical value used in Table 2 is weight%. In addition, as a carboxyvinyl polymer, carbopol 941 (carbopol 941), a product of B. F. Goodrich, USA, was used as a 1 wt% aqueous solution. In addition, as monostearate sorbitan, a product sold under the trade name Aracel 60 was used by ICI (USA), and polyoxyethylene (20 ethylene oxide added) sorbitan monostearate was used as the US. Tween 60, a product of ICI, was used, and ICEH, a product of Nihon Kokyu Alcohol, Japan, was used as isocetyl octanoate.

Experimental Example 1 Usability Evaluation Measurement Test

Table 3 shows the results of surveying 20 female consumers in their 20s and 30s to evaluate the feeling of use for the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 3, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 3. In the following Table 3, the rating was calculated by the following equation (1).

[Equation 1]

(A in the above formula means the number of people who showed each reaction.)

Very good Slightly good usually Slightly good Very bad grade Spreadability Example 1 6 8 4 2 0.90 Example 3 4 8 8 0.8 Comparative Example 1 6 11 3 0.15 Comparative Example 3 7 8 3 2 1.10 Absorbency (sticky) Example 1 4 10 6 0.90 Example 3 2 12 5 One 0.75 Comparative Example 1 4 10 3 3 -0.25 Comparative Example 3 5 10 5 1.00

As can be seen from the results of Table 3, Comparative Example 1, which has a low oil and propylene glycol weight%, has a very bad feeling, and Examples 1 and 3 are slightly worse than Comparative Example 3, which is a general emulsion, but the overall feeling of use is excellent.

Experimental Example 2: Time-lapse stability measurement test

In order to evaluate the chronological stability of ascorbic acid, the products prepared according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were placed in opaque containers and stored at room temperature (25 ° C.) and high temperature (40 ° C.) for 16 weeks. After week, 4, 8 and 16 weeks, the residual amount of ascorbic acid in the cosmetic composition was quantified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

The results are shown in Table 4 as the residual amount (% by weight).

Storage condition Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 25 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 80 75 70 4 Weeks 100 100 100 50 45 40 8 Weeks 99 99 98 30 28 25 16 Weeks 98 98 97 20 18 15 40 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 60 50 40 4 Weeks 98 98 97 30 25 25 8 Weeks 95 94 94 10 10 10 16 Weeks 94 93 92 0.0 0.0 0.0

As can be seen in Table 4, the cosmetic composition of Example 1-3 prepared as a liquid crystal gel under a nonaqueous solvent was more than 90% stable to temperature change and stability over time. Since the amount destabilized by moisture and oxygen contained in the used propylene glycol solvent is not about 10%, it can be seen that the stability is very excellent. On the other hand, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition of Comparative Examples 1-3, which is an oil-in-water emulsion, is hardly stable.

Experimental Example 3: Transdermal Absorption Measurement Test

To evaluate the transdermal absorption promoting effect of ascorbic acid, three skin permeation tests were performed using the skin of hairless mice. 48 μl each sample was injected into the surface of 7.5 mm in diameter and the amount of ascorbic acid permeated after 24 hours using a transdermal absorption device (Microette, Hanson Co.) was analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography. Quantification The results are shown in Table 5 as transmittance (%).

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Transmittance 20.0 24.0 27.5 2.5 2.48 2.52

As can be seen in Table 5, the percutaneous absorption of ascorbic acid is a liquid crystal gel cosmetic composition prepared in a non-aqueous solvent in Examples 1 to 3 is significantly promoted transdermal absorption compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and also non-aqueous solvent-based liquid crystal As the gel content increased, the transdermal absorption of ascorbic acid increased proportionally. This may be due to an increase in the concentration of nonionic surfactants and ceramides as the content of liquid crystal gel increases.

Experimental Example 4: Skin Whitening Effect Measurement Test

In order to evaluate the skin whitening effects of the products prepared according to Example 3 and Comparative Example 1, four xenon arc lamps were installed by setting four compartments having a diameter of 1 cm in the inner chest of 50 male and female healthy adults. After irradiating for 40 seconds with a solar simulator of Solar Inc. at a light intensity of 3.0 × 10 ^-3 mw / ㎠ (UV-B standard) for 40 seconds, each product was applied for 60 days to observe the degree of pigmentation improvement. Indicated.

(Unit: people) A marked improvement Little improvement no difference Worse system Example 3 30 18 2 - 50 Comparative Example 1 5 45 - 50 Comparative Example 3 2 10 38 - 50

As can be seen from the skin whitening effect promotion test results of Table 6, ascorbic acid has an excellent whitening effect, in particular, Example 3 prepared by the liquid crystal gel under a non-aqueous solvent showed a significant improvement effect.

As described above, the liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition containing the ascorbic acid and its derivatives according to the present invention has a good feeling of use and remarkably promotes transdermal absorption, and is excellent in the whitening effect, and also excellent in the stability of ascorbic acid. Indicates.

Claims (2)

50 to 75% by weight of nonaqueous solvent; 20 to 40% by weight solute including ceramides, nonionic surfactants, higher alcohols, cholesterol and oils in a weight ratio of 2-3: 1-3: 2-4: 4-6: 5-8; And Ascorbic acid and its derivatives 0.1 to 10% by weight Liquid crystal gel whitening cosmetic composition comprising a. The method of claim 1, The ascorbic acid and its derivatives are selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-o-ethoxy ascorbic acid Whitening cosmetic composition which is at least one selected ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof.