RU2458677C1 - Make-up foundation - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetic industry and represents a make-up foundation containing a lipid phase, structure-forming emulsifiers, pigments, preservatives, a perfume composition differing by the fact that as biologically active substances it contains herbal propylene glycol extracts of wild camomile (Matricaria chamomilla), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), nosebleed (Achillea millefoium) in the ratio 2:1:1, low-molecular hyaluronic acid, antioxidant dihydroquercetin; the cream base contains propylene glycol dispersions of pigments COVASOP (white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red ferric oxide CI 77491, black ferric oxide CI 77499), light diffusing pigment Matlake OP A, organosilicon elastomer DC 9701, UV filters Escalol 557 and Escalol 567, Cyclomethicone DC 345, organosilicon emulsifier DC 5329, acrylate emulsion of copolymer Salcare SC80, triethanolamine, preservative SHAROMIX MO, perfume Curt Georgi and thermal water of Suvorovsky No.1 thermal spring with the cream ingredients taken in certain proportions, wt %.

EFFECT: invention provides effective skin smoothing, nourishing, and also UV protection, improved skin tonicity and elasticity.

3 ex, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the production of cosmetics and is intended for makeup of the skin of the face, as well as nutrition, moisturizing, protection from ultraviolet radiation, increasing skin tone and elasticity using pigments, biologically active substances (BAS), UV filters and organosilicon compounds.

Known foundation (patent RF №2027427 from 01/27/1995), which contains paraffin, glycerol monostearate, stearin, perfume oil, triethanolamine, borax, talc, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, titanium white, sodium benzoate, dye, perfume and water , and also additionally contains coffee fat-and-oil extract and stabilized oil extracts of oregano.

The disadvantage of this drug is the low hiding power and the presence of petroleum products - paraffin and stearin, which are comedogenic and in most cases cause allergic reactions to the skin.

This tool also has a pronounced occlusive effect. With an occlusive effect, the product does not allow oxygen and water to pass from the surface of the skin, creates hyper-hydration of the skin, and as a result, causes sweating and leads to uneven skin color several hours after application.

Closest to the claimed invention is a tonal cream (RF patent No. 2203024 dated 04/27/2003), containing the fatty phase - cyclomethicone DC 245, dimethicone copolyols DC 3225C, DC 5225C, structure-forming emulsifiers - PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2-stearate, triceeteret-4 -phosphate, polysorbate 20, fillers (pigments) - yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide pigment, technical carbon, preservatives of methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, bronopol, bronitrol, CG caton, Hermaben II, moisturizing component - to rbamid, nutritional supplements - collagen and vitamin E. In general, active cream has a light texture and a high hiding power.

The disadvantage of this tool is the use of parabens (methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid) and bronopol as preservatives.

Parabens are active mainly against fungi and are ineffective against bacteria, inactivated by nonionic surfactants (for example, dimethicone copolyols DC 3225C, DC 5225C presented above), and also have estrogenic activity.

Bronopol tends to enter into chemical reactions with amines and amides contained in cosmetics, forming carcinogenic nitrosamines. Back in the mid-1980s, concerns about the possibility of the formation of nitrosamines in cosmetics containing bronopol were confirmed. Moreover, it was noted that there is the possibility of adsorption of the bronopol on the skin, which can lead to the formation of endogenous nitrosamines in the human body. Bronopol is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative and therefore the frequency of its use throughout the world is steadily decreasing (Belikov O.E., Puchkova T.V., 2003).

It is also doubtful that collagen can be attributed to nutrients, as the size of collagen molecules (300 kDa) does not allow them to pass even through the stratum corneum of the skin (Stratum Corneum). Collagen is usually used in cosmetics to create a short-term effect of lifting (tightening) the skin as a result of its drying on the surface of the skin.

The foundation is essentially a day cream designed to even out complexion and eliminate minor skin imperfections (fine wrinkles and irregularities). In the afternoon, the skin of the face is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, which in excess causes the formation of free radicals and, as a result, its premature aging.

The technical result of the invention is achieved by the use of propylene glycol dispersions of pigments, light scattering pigment, organic and inorganic UV filters, biologically active substances and silicon organic compounds.

Propylene glycol dispersions of pigments COVASOP: white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black iron oxide CI 77499, have a particle size of several tens of nanometers and high hiding power. The particle size of the pigments is one of the indicators of the quality of the tonal means. Due to the state of aggregation in the form of a paste, it is easily introduced into the proposed formulation. By varying the amount of pigment, various shades of skin color can be achieved.

Organic and inorganic UV filters are introduced into the foundation: Escalol 557 octyl methoxycinnamate (INCI: 2-Ethylhexyl p-Methoxycinnamate) - active in the "B" range of ultraviolet radiation; Escalol 567 Benzophenone-3 (INCI: Benzophenone-3) - active in the ranges "A" and "B" of ultraviolet radiation.

To achieve a greater effect of equalization of skin color and an increase in SPF (Sun Protection Factor), the inorganic light scattering pigment Matlake OPA (titanium dioxide + aluminum) was used. By its properties, converting light is similar to opal, which adapts to the color of the skin, while the pigment corrects skin defects and maskes small wrinkles due to the diffusion of sunlight.

In order to achieve the goal of the greatest leveling of the skin surface, a DC 9701 silicone elastomer (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica) is introduced, which, unlike cheap talc, maskes small skin irregularities much more efficiently, allows it to “breathe” and absorbs small amounts sebum.

The main parameters that determine the effectiveness of sunscreens are the minimum erythema dose (MED) and the sun protection factor - SPF.

Erythema, or redness of the skin, has a convenient quantitative characteristic - MED. The minimum erythema dose (biodose) is the dose of radiation that causes the minimum redness visible to the eye, which develops after a certain period of time after exposure (usually 24 hours). MED can also be defined as the exposure time sufficient to induce minimal erythema. In order to find out how effectively this product protects against sunburn, measure the DER of unprotected skin and compare it with the DER of the skin on which the test agent is applied. The value of SPF (Sun Protection Factor) shows how much DER of protected skin exceeds DER of unprotected skin.

To preserve the moisturizing effect, silicone oil is introduced - cyclomethicone DC 345 (INCI: Cyclomethicone). Cyclomethicone is a mixture of cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes with a low viscosity of 0.65 centistokes, which guarantees increased fluidity on the surface of the skin and, as a result, a reduction in the consumption of foundation. To further moisturize the skin, hyaluronic acid is included in the formulation, which is able to moisturize the skin much more effectively than analogues and is part of the skin glycosaminoglycans (NMF - Natural Moisturizing Factor).

As the basis for the foundation, an aqueous anionic acrylate emulsion of the Salcare SC80 copolymer (INCI: Steareth-10Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer), which is a carbomer, was selected. Salcare SC80 is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic components.

Typically, carbomers have the form of a white fine powder (Carbopol, Cosmedia SP), which must first be subjected to the stage of swelling and dispersion. The process of preparing carbomer for neutralization usually takes several hours, heating to 40-45 ° C accelerates the swelling process. Salcare SC80 is convenient to use in view of its emulsified form, allowing you to quickly get a clear gel.

The foundation is made on the basis of thermal water produced at well No. 1 with a depth of 1253 m in the village of Suvorov Stavropol Territory. Thermal water at the exit from the earth has a temperature of + 53 ° C, alkaline, carbon-free, sodium sulfate-hydro-carbonate. Thanks to its balanced composition, it nourishes the skin with essential minerals.

The thermal spring Suvorovsky No. 1 has half a century of tradition of healing people. The water of the village of Suvorovskaya has the exceptional properties of "living water" - the source of youth: heals, rejuvenates and nourishes the vitality.

The foundation contains propylene glycol extracts of medicinal plants: chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (Achillea millefoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, growing in the North Caucasus.

The native form dihydroquercetin obtained from Siberian larch (Larix sibirica Ledeb.) And Daurian larch (Larix Dahurica Nurcz.) Was used as an antioxidant.

To enhance the transfer of biologically active substances into the dermis, organosilicon PEG-12 Dimethicone (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone) was used. When emulsified, instead of micelles it forms vesicular structures - niosomes, which are able to transfer biologically active substances deep into the dermis.

The use of the SHAROMDC MCI water-soluble preservative (INCI: 5-cloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolinone and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolinone) provides a better protection for the cream than the use of a fat-soluble preservative (e.g. parabens) due to the high content of the aqueous phase and the ability of microorganisms multiply precisely in the aqueous phase and on the interface.

A fragrance is used to give the cream a mild flavor. The stabilization of the concentration of hydrogen ions (pH) is made by triethanolamine.

The possibility of carrying out the claimed invention is confirmed by examples of specific performance.

Example 1

The foundation contains, as a biologically active additive, propylene glycol extract of chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) and yarrow (Achillea millefoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid digant, as well as The preparation of propylene glycol extract is carried out in several stages: extraction with propylene glycol from medicinal plants for 48 hours and subsequent filtration to separate from plant materials.

The basis of the product includes: COVASOP propylene glycol dispersions of pigments (white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black iron oxide CI 77499), Matlake OPA light-scattering pigment, DC 9701 silicone elastomer, Escalol 55 UV filters and Escalol 567, cyclomethicone DC 345, silicone emulsifier DC 5329, Salcare SC80 acrylate emulsion copolymer, triethanolamine, SHAROMLX MCI preservative, perfume and thermal water.

The phases of preparation and formulation of foundation creams in examples 1-3 are presented in table 1.

Phase A is prepared at room temperature by mechanical mixing of the following components in a mixer: salcare SC80 copolymer acrylate emulsion - 3.0 wt.%, Perfumes - 0.2 wt.%, Preservative SHAROMIX MCI - 0.1 wt.% And thermal water up to one hundred%.

Phase B is prepared separately by weighing propylene glycol dispersions of COVASOP pigments (white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black iron oxide CI 77499) - 5.0 wt.% And light-scattering pigment Matlake OPA - 5, 0 wt.%. Phase B is added to Phase A with vigorous mechanical stirring in a mixer.

Phase B contains as a biologically active substance a propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants: chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (Achillea millefoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively - 20.0 wt.%, Low molecular weight hyalurons acid - 0.1 wt.%, as well as an antioxidant - dihydroquercetin - 0.05 wt.%. Phase B is added to Phases A + B with mechanical stirring in a mixer.

Phase G is prepared separately by intensive mechanical mixing and includes the lipid components of the agent: cyclomethicone DC 345 - 20.0 wt.%, Silicone elastomer DC 9701 - 1.0 wt.% And emulsifier DC 5329 - 1.0 wt.%, Which allows to create emulsion with water-soluble components.

UV filters Escalol 557 and Escalol 567 are introduced into the mixture in the amount of 10.0 wt.% And 20.0 wt.%, Respectively.

Phase G is introduced into the mixture (A + B + C) with vigorous stirring and room temperature.

Phase D consists of one component, triethanolamine, which, when added to the mixture in an amount of 1.0 wt.%, Neutralizes the acrylate emulsion and as a result a cream texture is formed. Triethanolamine is added to the mixture at the very least and is a pH regulator.

Example 2

It is carried out analogously to example 1, only the components are introduced in the following ratio: salcare SC80 copolymer acrylate emulsion - 3.0 wt.%, Perfume - 0.3 wt.%, SHAROMTX MCI preservative - 0.3 wt.%, COVASOP propylene glycol pigment dispersions ( white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black iron oxide CI 77499) - 25.0 wt.%, light-scattering pigment Matlake OPA - 0.1 wt.%, propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants: chamomile pharmacy (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (Achillea mill efoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively - 15.0 wt.%, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid - 0.5 wt.%, dihydroquercetin - 0.07 wt.%, cyclomethicone DC 345 - 5.0 wt.%, organosilicon elastomer DC 9701 - 5.0 wt.%, emulsifier DC 5329 - 2.0 wt.%, Escalol 557 - 40.0 wt.%, Escalol 567 - 1.0 wt.%, triethanolamine - 2.5 wt. % (Table 1).

Example 3

It is carried out analogously to example 1, only the components are introduced in the following ratio: salcare SC80 copolymer acrylate emulsion - 3.5 wt.%, Perfume - 0.4 wt.%, SHAROMDC MCI preservative - 0.5 wt.%, COVASOP propylene glycol pigment dispersions ( white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black iron oxide CI 77499) - 15.0 wt.%, light-scattering pigment Matlake OPA - 2.5 wt.%, propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants: chamomile pharmacy (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (Achillea mill efoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively - 10.0 wt.%, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid - 2.0 wt.%, dihydroquercetin - 0.1 wt.%, cyclomethicone DC 345 - 10.0 wt.%, organosilicon elastomer DC 9701 - 0.1 wt.%, emulsifier DC 5329 - 4.0 wt.%, Escalol 557 - 1.0 wt.%, Escalol 567 - 40.0 wt.%, triethanolamine - 2.0 wt. % (Table).

The developed product passed physicochemical, toxicological tests at the Federal State Health Institution “Center for Hygiene and Epidemiology in the Stavropol Territory” of Rospotrebnadzor. The research results showed the safety of use and high quality foundation.

Thus, the claimed foundation effectively evens out the complexion, and also nourishes, moisturizes, protects against ultraviolet radiation, improves skin tone and elasticity with pigments, biologically active substances, UV filters and organosilicon compounds.

Information sources

1. RF patent No. 2027427 from 01/27/1995.

2. RF patent No. 2203024 dated 04/27/2003.

3. Belikov O.E., Puchkova T.V. Preservatives in cosmetics and hygiene products. - M.: Publishing. "School of cosmetic chemists", 2003. - 250 p.

Table
Phases of preparation and formulation of foundation No. p / p Name of ingredient Content in wt.% Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Phase A one Thermal water up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 2 Preservative (SHAROMIX MCI) 0.1 0.3 0.5 3 Acrylate Emulsion Copolymer (Salcare SC80) 3.0 3.0 3,5 four Perfume 0.2 0.3 0.4 Phase B 5 Propylene glycol dispersion of pigments COVASOP (white titanium dioxide CI77891, red iron oxide CI77491, yellow iron oxide CI77492, black iron oxide CI77499) 5,0 25.0 15.0 6 Matlake OPA Light Scattering Pigment 5,0 0.1 2.5 Phase B 7 Propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants of chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and yarrow (Achillea millefoium) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 20,0 15.0 10.0 8 Hyaluronic acid 0.1 0.5 2.0 9 Dihydroquercetin 0.05 0,07 0.1 Phase G 10 Cyclomethicone (DC 345) 20,0 5,0 10.0 eleven Emulsifier (DC 5329) 1,0 2.0 4.0 12 Elastomer (DC 9701) 1,0 5,0 0.1 13 UV Filter Escalol 557 10.0 40,0 1,0 fourteen UV Filter Escalol 567 20,0 1,0 40,0 Phase D fifteen Triethanolamine 1,0 2.5 2.0

Claims (1)

A foundation cream containing a lipid phase, structure-forming emulsifiers, pigments, preservatives, a perfume composition, characterized in that it contains biologically active substances as a propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants of chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), yarrow (yarrow ) in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, antioxidant dihydroquercetin, the cream is based on propylene glycol dispersions of pigments COVASOP (white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, black iron oxide CI 77499), Matlake OPA light-scattering pigment, DC 9701 silicone elastomer, Escalol 557 and Escalol 567 UV filters, DC 345 cyclomethicone, DC 5329 silicone emulsifier, SC acrylate emulsion copolymer, tri-acrylate copolymer emulsion , preservative SHAROMIX MCI, perfume Curt Georgi and thermal water from the thermal spring Suvorovsky No. 1 with the following components, wt.%:
Propylene glycol extract of medicinal plants pharmacy chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Hypericum perforatum (Hypericum perforatum) and yarrow (Achillea millefoium) in the ratio 2: 1: 1 10.0-20.0 Dihydroquercetin 0.05-0.1 Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid 0.1-2.0 Propylene glycol pigment dispersions COVASOP (white titanium dioxide CI 77891, red iron oxide CI 77491, yellow iron oxide CI 77492, black oxide Iron CI 77499) 5.0-25.0 Matlake OPA Light Scattering Pigment 0.1-5.0 Silicone Elastomer DC 9701 0.1-5.0 UV Filter Escalol 557 1,0-40,0 UV Filter Escalol 567 1,0-40,0 Cyclomethicone DC 345 5.0-20.0 Organosilicon emulsifier DC 5329 1.0-4.0 Acrylate copolymer emulsion Salcare SC80 3.0-3.5 Triethanolamine 1.0-2.5 Fragrance Curt Georgi 0.2-0.4 Preservative SHAROMIX MCI 0.1-0.5 Thermal water from thermal source Suvorovsky №1 Up to 100.0