RU2414885C1 - Cosmetic preparation based on phitoestrogen biocomplex - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to field of cosmetology, in particular deals with cosmetic preparation for skin care based on phytoestrogens, as source of lactobaccili phytoestrogens preparation contains extract of soya beans (soya milk, fermented with lactobaccili), extract of angelica root, extract of skullcap root, extract of licorice leaves and root, oil and extract of clary sage leaves, extract of blackberry lily bulb (leopard flower), extract of purple clover flowers, oil of apple seeds, oil of avocado fruit, extract of pea beans, extract of Ampelopsis leaves, extract of banana flowers, extract of peanut seed shells, extract of raspberry leaves, extract of quince seed shell, extract of sirokikurage fungus (silver ear, Tramella fuciformis) and extract of mandarin peel and pulp.

EFFECT: invention provides preparation which has local and estrogen-like and anti-oxidant action on skin; activates metabolism in skin cells; ensures lifting-effect and prolonged moistening; creates protection against negative impact of environmental factors; stimulates cell regeneration and stimulates wrinkle smoothening.

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Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to cosmetics based on phytoestrogens for skin care.

In women, the skin needs estrogen throughout life. Under the control of estrogen is the secretion of the sebaceous glands, hair growth, collagen synthesis. At a young age, the imbalance between androgens and estrogens leads to excessive secretion of the sebaceous glands, the appearance of acne, and facial hair growth. As you approach menopause, another problem arises - the level of estrogen in the blood decreases. This leads to loss of elasticity and to dry skin, the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, increased hair growth on the face and body. Estrogens normalize the secretion of sebaceous glands, slow down skin aging, increase the rate of epidermal cell renewal, and enhance collagen synthesis. However, the therapeutic use of synthetic estrogens can produce unwanted side effects. Therefore, cosmetologists avoid the use of hormones to solve aesthetic problems.

Plants that synthesize phytoestrogens are a new source of substances that have an estrogen-like effect on the skin.

An estrogen-like action is an action that does not cause systemic disorders and is characterized by normalization of the hormonal balance of the skin, which leads to the restoration of skin elasticity and elasticity (tone and turgor) due to stimulation of the synthesis of collagen-elastin fibers.

In the field of cosmetology, various phytoestrogen-based products are currently used.

Known patent CN 1130504, publ. September 1996, 11, which describes a cream for cosmetic use that has a whitening, moisturizing effect against wrinkles and age spots, containing ganoderma, trichosanthes fruit kernel, dahurian angelica root, asparagus root, tremella, as well as other components.

Known patent of the Russian Federation 2338514, publ. 11/20/2008, which describes a cosmetic product for the prevention of skin aging, containing a dietary supplement based on phytoestrogens in the form of a complex of polyethylene glycol extracts of wheat germ and soy, a complex of oleic extracts of wild yam and soy root, as well as an amino acid complex, jojoba oil and cosmetic basis.

As the closest analogue of the prototype may be specified application JP 2005343873 (A), publ. 12/05/15, describing a cosmetic product for eliminating and preventing various symptoms caused by estrogen deficiency, containing plants selected from the group: Iris florentina, Lamium album, Ononis spinosa, Typha angustifolia, Glycyrrhiza glabara, Sophora angustifolia, Citrus paradisi, Cinnamomumia ciaia, , Eugelhardtia chrysolepis, Marsdenia cundurango, Asarum sieboldii, Salvia officinalis, Crataegus cuneata, Dioscorea japonica, Zingiber officinale, Acorus calamus, Betula platyphylla, Lonicera jumonumiumiumiomumusumusumusacmusllus morusa aurantium, Astragalus gummifer, Hamamelis virginiana, Angelica dahurica, Ruscus aculeatus, Sinomenium acutum, Imperata cylindrica, Saposhnikovia dibaricata, Humulus lupulus, Ephedra sinica, Lavandura angustifolia, Pyrus malus, Ganoderma lucidum, Lactuca sativa, Citrus limon, Anthemis nobilis and Sanguisorba officinalis, their extracts, milk proteins of the fermented soy bean extract, trehalose. Known means can be used for skin care.

However, the assortment of means with a phytoestrogenic effect, which is suitable for various age categories and practically safe, is not sufficient. Specialists continue to search for new promising tools.

However, the creation of phytoestrogenic cosmetics is a complex and expensive process. It is not enough just to add a plant extract or oil to a cream or lotion containing phytoestrogens - they must be used in such a concentration and in such a combination that the hormone-like component can penetrate the skin "at the destination" and properly interact with the cells.

Phytoestrogens should be in the composition of a cosmetic preparation in a sufficiently high concentration and in a form that provides deep penetration, in fact it should not be a separate phytoestrogen, but a whole complex of phytoestrogens.

In addition, herbal remedies, in addition to phytoestrogens, contain complexes of biologically active substances of a different nature and action, which, when combined with extracts, should not reduce their activity or exert a negative effect.

The objective of the present invention: the creation of a new tool containing a complex of phytoestrogens with a wide spectrum of effects on the skin of various ages.

The problem is solved by a new cosmetic product containing a phytoestrogen complex. The tool contains in wt.% The following components:

Soybean Cultural Seed Extract (Lactobacillus fermented soy milk) 17.1-20.9 Angelica Root Extract 13.5-16.5 Scutellaria baicalensis root extract 11.7-14.3 Licorice Leaf and Root Extract 9-11 Clary sage leaf oil and extract 8.1-9.9 Bulamkanda Chinese Bulb Extract (leopard lily) 6.3-7.7 Clover Red Flower Extract 4,5-5,5 Apple seed oil 4,5-5,5 Avocado fruit oil 2.7-3.3 Pea Seed Extract 2.7-3.3 Forest vineyard leaf extract (ampelopsis) 1.8-2.2 Banana Flower Extract 1.8-2.2 Peanut Seed Shell Extract 1.8-2.2 Raspberry leaf extract 1.8-2.2 Quince Seed Shell Extract 0.9-1.1 Shirokikurage Mushroom Extract (silver ear, fucus-shaped tremors) 0.9-1.1 Mandarin zest and pulp extract 0.9-1.1

The product consists of extracts of plants and vegetable oils containing phytoestrogens that form a phytoestrogenic biocomplex.

Phytoestrogens normalize the estrogenic balance of the skin, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin fibers, hyaluronic acid, improve microcirculation, activate cell renewal (regeneration).

The proposed tool can be used to increase skin firmness and elasticity, combat acne manifestations, restore the epidermal barrier, reduce wrinkle depth, and normalize cellular respiration.

The result of the action of phytoestrogens: skin rejuvenation, increased tone and turgor, smoothing wrinkles, strengthening the facial contours, increasing elasticity.

At the same time, the extracts included in the composition also exhibit a number of additional properties, which generally provide more effective skin care.

- Soybean Cultured Seed Extract / Soy milk fermented by lactobacilli / strengthens the lipid barrier of the skin, prevents moisture loss, maintains the mobility of collagen fibers and skin elasticity. Soybean / soybean milk extracts (protein extracts of soybeans and soymilk) contain isoflavones, such as genistein and daidzein, belonging to the phytoestrogen family. The interest of the cosmetic industry in these components is based, in particular, on the results of laboratory studies using mouse skin, which describe the antitumor, whitening and antioxidant properties of soy proteins. The extract also exhibits DNA-protecting effects, has the property of increasing the level of hyaluronic acid in the skin.

This component is widely used in industry and can be obtained for the purposes of the present invention by any known method (see, for example, RF patent 2183964, RF patent 2216190, RF application 2004131499,

http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~content=a781775864 and others)

- Angelica root extract (angelica). The extract has an estrogen-like effect, can be obtained from the roots of Angelica archangelica or Angelica sinensis by infusion or boiling in water. The extract obtained from angelica contains sesquiterpenes, coumarins, tannins, essential oils, resins, etc., has a pleasant spicy musk aroma and a pronounced antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic effect. Angelica extract relieves irritation and redness, tones up “tired” skin.

- Extract of Scutellaria baicalensis root (Scutellaria Baicalensis Georgi). The useful properties of Scutellaria are associated with the presence of flavonoids in it. The chemical composition of flavonoids is quite diverse - chrysin, apigenin, luteolin, scutellarein, dinatin, isoskutellarein (isocartamidine), vogonin, vogonoside, norvogonin, baikalein, neobaikalein, oroxylin, etc., more than 20 compounds in total. However, the dominant flavone aglycone in the root of Scutellaria is baicalein, represented by its 7-O-glucuronide, baicaline. The extract shows phytoestrogenic properties, has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, detoxifying effects. To obtain the funds, any official extracts can be used, including aqueous, alcohol-water extracts (for example, 30-70% ethanol is used as extractant with a ratio of raw materials: extractant 1: 5-1: 10).

- Banana Flower Extract (Musa paradisiacal). It contains essential oils, anthocyanins, enzymes, pectins, potassium salts, vitamins, as well as physiologically active substances - catecholamines. It shows phytoestrogenic properties. It has a tonic effect, strengthens the epidermal barrier, restores the lipid barrier of the skin, moisturizes the skin. In addition, the extract gives a light pleasant aroma to the cosmetic product. Preferably, an aqueous banana flower extract can be used for the purposes of the present invention.

- Peanut seed shell extract (Arachis hypogaea) - exhibits phytoestrogenic properties. It has a softening, anti-allergic effect, strengthens the epidermal barrier.

- Licorice leaf and root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra L., Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch and others) - exhibits phytoestrogenic properties, has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, detoxifying effects. Official licorice extracts are used.

- Oil and extract of clary sage leaves (Salvia sclarea L.). Sage oil is a colorless or slightly yellowish liquid containing linalyl acetate, linalool, geraniol, nerol. The clary sage leaves contain essential oil, flavonoids, saponins, bitterness, tannins, vitamins P and PP, volatile and other biologically active substances. Due to the content of flavonoids, the extract exhibits phytoestrogenic properties. In addition, the extract has an astringent, conditioning, immuno-strengthening, anti-inflammatory effect. To obtain using known methods by steam distillation, or dissolution of clary sage extracts in ethanol, separation of waxes by filtration, distillation of the solvent (USSR patent 1465449), insisting of 1-2 tablespoons of dry raw materials with 1-2 glasses of boiling water, etc.

- Apple seed oil is an extract of Calocarpum mamossum apple seed and is an affordable commercial product obtained by cold pressing from apple seeds. The oil contains a plant component, with properties similar to those of female hormones. This component eliminates the signs of aging, maintains hydration for a long time, promotes the formation of a collagen structure and provides antioxidant skin protection.

- Avocado fruit oil (Persea Gratissima) - obtained from the fruits of an evergreen tropical avocado plant (alligator pear) by mechanical extraction of ripe avocado pears from the fruit pulp. Avocado oil has a moisturizing, protective effect on the skin and hair, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging effect, restores the epidermal barrier, relieves irritation.

- Pea seed extract (Pisum sativum) - like other extracts, it exhibits a phytoestrogenic effect, in addition, it protects from harmful environmental factors, moisturizes, and protects the fibrous structure of the dermis from the damaging effects of enzymes. Typically, for the purposes of the present invention, an extract is obtained, obtained, for example, by infusion with water for 8-24 hours.

- Forest vineyard leaf extract (ampelopsis) - a powerful antioxidant that exhibits a vasoprotective, anti-inflammatory effect. Leaf bioflavonoids are phytoestrogens. Various known extractants, preferably water, lower alcohols can be used to obtain the extract (see, for example, EP 1767212).

- An extract of the bulb Belamkanda Chinese (leopard lily, Belamcanda chinensis) normalizes melanogenesis. Typically, an aqueous extract is used for the purposes of the present invention.

- Red clover flower extract (Trifolium pratense). The red clover inflorescences extract contains isoflavonoids, bioflavonoids, coumarins exhibiting estrogen-like action, as well as unsaturated fatty acids, biotin, choline, glycosides trifolin and isotrifolin, inositol, trifolizin, pantothenic, folic acid, vitamins, salitsin, and salitsin zinc, etc.), organic phosphorus, etc. The extract provides antioxidant protection for the skin. Use aqueous, alcoholic extracts (see, for example, RF patent 2279287, RF patent 2290172).

- Raspberry leaf extract (Rubi idaei folium) has an estrogen-like effect, as well as an anti-inflammatory, bactericidal effect. The extract is preferably an aqueous extract (see, for example, Raspberry Leaves as a potential source of bioflavonoids. Collection of articles based on the materials of the International 63rd Scientific Student Conference named after N.I. Pirogov, Tomsk, 2004).

- Quince seed extract (Cydoniae semen) - has a soothing and calming effect, wound healing effect, provides micronutrient nutrition, antioxidant protection. The extract can be obtained from whole seeds by infusion or boiling with water.

- Sirokikurage mushroom extract (silver ear, fucus tremor, Tremella fuciformis) relieves swelling, exhibits an immunostimulating effect, provides hydration, antioxidant protection, and nutrition with microelements. The extract can be obtained by any known method, for example, using hot water (US 20060222608, WO / 2007/030975).

- Mandarin extract (zest, pulp) exhibits antioxidant activity, helps smooth wrinkles, restore skin tone, improve protective and barrier properties, even out skin tone.

In general, the phytoestrogen complex of the proposed new effective drug has:

- local estrogen-like effect on the skin;

- activates the metabolism in skin cells;

- has a powerful antioxidant effect;

- creates protection against the negative effects of environmental factors;

- provides prolonged hydration;

- provides lifting action;

- stimulates cell regeneration;

- Helps smooth wrinkles.

The possibility of carrying out the invention can also be confirmed by the following examples.

Example 1

Preferred cosmetic composition, wt.%:

Soybean Cultural Seed Extract (Lactobacillus fermented soy milk) 19% Angelica Root Extract fifteen% Scutellaria baicalensis root extract 13% Licorice Leaf and Root Extract 10% Clary sage leaf oil and extract 9% Bulamkanda Chinese Bulb Extract 7% Clover Red Flower Extract 5% Apple seed oil 5% Avocado fruit oil 3% Pea Seed Extract 3% Forest vineyard leaf extract (ampelopsis) 2% Banana Flower Extract 2% Peanut Seed Shell Extract 2% Raspberry leaf extract 2% Quince Seed Shell Extract one% Shirokikurage Mushroom Extract (silver ear, fucus-shaped tremors) one% Mandarin pulp and zest extract one%

Example 2

Tests of the proposed drug were carried out on female volunteers aged 18 to 67 years with signs of various age-related changes in facial skin (acne, aging, wrinkles, sun lentigo, age-related keratomas, increased dry skin) for at least a month for each volunteer. Comprehensive diagnostics included:

- skin research using Skin Scanner devices (Japan) and an acoustic tissue analyzer (ASA, RF),

- visual diagnostics,

- customer survey.

The use of apparatus for assessing skin effects during the procedures allowed us to see the dynamics of changes and evaluate the degree of effectiveness of the selected product. To do this, we determined the acoustic parameter — the propagation velocity of the surface shifts of the disturbances before and after the end of the test period.

The conclusion is made on the basis of generalized data on 21 clients who completed the full course. A survey was conducted to evaluate the organoleptic characteristics of the agents. The questionnaires included information about the subjective feelings of clients and objective data obtained by specialists during a visual examination of the skin - visual diagnostics.

The cosmetic product received a positive assessment of subjects, including those with increased skin sensitivity to cosmetics and susceptibility to odors.

There were no cases with an allergic reaction (itching, severe burning, persistent redness of the skin).

The product is easily removed without leaving a greasy sheen, stickiness, film on the surface of the skin, or marks on clothing.

Visually, after each procedure, an improvement in the relief, color and texture of the skin, the elimination of puffiness was noted.

Visual inspection data is confirmed by Skin scanner data. In addition, there was an increase in the level of skin moisture, a significant smoothing effect.

In parallel, the effect of the product (lotion) on the frequency and intensity of the reduction of skin wrinkles was studied using the PRIMOS method. The results reflect the active effect of the composition on reducing wrinkle depth (28% after a month), reducing skin roughness (by 25% after a month), and a 44% decrease in the volume parameter (reflecting deep structural changes in the skin).

The results of previous microbiological, chemical-analytical, toxicological studies have shown that the specified cosmetic products are safe, not irritating and allergenic.

The cosmetic product is very promising for both individual skin care and the professional market. It is most effective in comprehensive body care techniques, including manual methods and hardware technologies.

Claims (1)

A cosmetic product for skin care based on phytoestrogens, characterized in that as a source of phytoestrogens it contains the following components, wt.%:
Soybean Cultural Seed Extract (soy milk fermented with lactobacilli) 17.1-20.9 Angelica Root Extract 13.5-16.5 Scutellaria baicalensis root extract 11.7-14.3 Licorice Leaf and Root Extract 9-11 Clary sage leaf oil and extract 8.1-9.9 Bulamkanda Chinese Bulb Extract (leopard lily) 6.3-7.7 Clover Red Flower Extract 4,5-5,5 Apple seed oil 4,5-5,5 Avocado fruit oil 2.7-3.3 Pea Seed Extract 2.7-3.3 Forest vineyard leaf extract (ampelopsis) 1.8-2.2 Banana Flower Extract 1.8-2.2 Peanut Seed Shell Extract 1.8-2.2 Raspberry leaf extract 1.8-2.2 Quince Seed Shell Extract 0.9-1.1 Shirokikurage Mushroom Extract (silver ear, fucus-shaped tremors) 0.9-1.1 Mandarin zest and pulp extract 0.9-1.1